There’s a few different ways. Some people tie a long piece of elastic up to the bow eye and run that through the loop where their mast retainer attaches to the block plate. That then goes to your daggerboard with a hook on the end that clips to a small piece of line spliced or tied onto the board. Pros: It’s a simple, lazy way to do it. Cons: You have a lot of elastic and that adds weight. Because of the length you need a thicker piece of elastic to get the same tension as you would a shorter piece of smaller diameter. The second way is to take a shorter piece of elastic and tie it to your block plate using 2 bowlines or some stopper knots after putting the dead ends thought the hoops. This creates a loop leading aft. On this loop you put a thin diameter line with a hook on the end that would attach to the daggerboard the same way as above. I like this version. I think it looks better, you use less elastic, if anything goes wrong while sailing it’s all within arms length. If you don’t have a block plate and you just have a clam cleat at the base of your mast like on older boats than you would have to use the first method with a long piece of elastic. I use the second one after much deliberation having used both systems although mine is custom. I’ve attached a 6mm diameter at about a 2 foot or so length(it might be shorter I can’t remember… just make sure you have a fair bit of tension pulling back on your board)to the block plate leading the ends from in to out(from centerline out) and ending those with double overhand knots. The loop goes to about half way between the block plate and my cleat base. I’ve eye-spliced a piece of 2 or 3mm dyneema to the elastic and on the other end of the dyneema is a winchard stainless steel snap hook attached with an eye splice. The bottom of my snap hook lays just aft and touching the cleat base. Spliced to my board is a 2-3mm piece of dyneema with an eye splice in the other end which is about 1.5-2 inches off my board. This system works the best I think although I am bias considering I designed it. If you have any other questions about rigging I can answer them with confidence. West coast sailing does give good advice but not all of it should be followed as they are trying to sell a product.
thanks for the video ! can you do a video on setting up the daggerboard? I don't know what's the best way.
Sure thing!
you just put it in?
There’s a few different ways. Some people tie a long piece of elastic up to the bow eye and run that through the loop where their mast retainer attaches to the block plate. That then goes to your daggerboard with a hook on the end that clips to a small piece of line spliced or tied onto the board.
Pros: It’s a simple, lazy way to do it.
Cons: You have a lot of elastic and that adds weight. Because of the length you need a thicker piece of elastic to get the same tension as you would a shorter piece of smaller diameter.
The second way is to take a shorter piece of elastic and tie it to your block plate using 2 bowlines or some stopper knots after putting the dead ends thought the hoops. This creates a loop leading aft. On this loop you put a thin diameter line with a hook on the end that would attach to the daggerboard the same way as above. I like this version. I think it looks better, you use less elastic, if anything goes wrong while sailing it’s all within arms length.
If you don’t have a block plate and you just have a clam cleat at the base of your mast like on older boats than you would have to use the first method with a long piece of elastic.
I use the second one after much deliberation having used both systems although mine is custom. I’ve attached a 6mm diameter at about a 2 foot or so length(it might be shorter I can’t remember… just make sure you have a fair bit of tension pulling back on your board)to the block plate leading the ends from in to out(from centerline out) and ending those with double overhand knots. The loop goes to about half way between the block plate and my cleat base. I’ve eye-spliced a piece of 2 or 3mm dyneema to the elastic and on the other end of the dyneema is a winchard stainless steel snap hook attached with an eye splice. The bottom of my snap hook lays just aft and touching the cleat base. Spliced to my board is a 2-3mm piece of dyneema with an eye splice in the other end which is about 1.5-2 inches off my board.
This system works the best I think although I am bias considering I designed it. If you have any other questions about rigging I can answer them with confidence. West coast sailing does give good advice but not all of it should be followed as they are trying to sell a product.
Nice boats!😎
those are legal for 4.7 sail right??
Yes, everything in this video is class legal. ILCA 4 is the Laser 4.7 equivalent.
Lower the music!