Thank you so much for creating this video. I got the Incra system along with the Dewalt tablesaw and I was able to make it work in only 30 minutes following your suggestions. You are a lifesaver and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with everyone
Thanks for putting a thoroughly explained video on fitting an Incra to the Dewalt. It's exactly where I'm at and you have probably saved me some time as I attempt to adjust mine to the saw.
Thanks for making this video I have this saw and I added 2 layers of Aluminum Foil Duct Tape to the sides and bottom of miter to tighten the tolerances between the track and miter. This is only a temporary fix.
Kevin, the way I see it there were 35K KIA's in the Korean war. That's just US (never mind all of the UN countries) It really was the *least* I could do to pay it back. Thank you.
Thanks for your service! Great video, I'm in the process of trying to buy this saw but it's out of stock at both Lowes and Home Depot. By the way, I was stationed at Camp Casey ROK while attached to 2nd ID. Really liked the Korean culture.
@@jmahtab Ahh good old Camp Casey! FYI, 8th Army HQ moved to Camp Humphreys. Must to the dismay of Itaewon vendors, I'm sure. Finally, don't forget that HD and Lowes offers 10% discount for most store bought things. With Lowes, you register and it's automatic. With HD, you have to bring your ID or DD214. Good luck with snagging the saw!
Man! Almost a year ago! Freakin' heck! I don't know why it's taken me so long to find this vid! I've had this problem for freakin' years! Thank you! Well done!
I should clarify. At 8:13 mark, I should have said that I placed yet another layer of double stick tape to the plastic. Of course, I didn't peel the tape on the side that touches the miter. . So the layers are: Miter bar, double stick tape, plastic sign cut to width, and another layer of double stick tape (without removing the covering on one side)
my Incra 1000HD arrives in a few days...to be used with the 7491. soo thankful to come across this video as I'm sure it will help me dial it in. thank you!!
I don't have an Incra miter gage but I have the same saw and I made runners for a crosscut sled. The tip for sanding the miter slots in the table was very helpful. Thanks
Excellent video and explanation. I too ran into the same issues with an Incra miter gauge. I contacted the good folks at Incra who made the same recommendations as to placement of the slot on the washer and lithium grease on the screw threads. The rep, seeing that I live in MN asked, "Where's your shop?" I responded that it's in a garage heated to ~50F. The rep also suggested that I use a heat gun to warm up the washers a bit which makes them a bit more flexible. This worked perfectly. I didn't have the issue of "bumps" in the miter slots requiring the use of sandpaper for removal. But a quick clean of the miter slots with acetone followed by a bit of paste wax really smoothed out the action of the miter in the slot. Just my $0.02 worth. Thanks again, Hansang.
Thanks for sharing the additional tips. You can never have too many clamps and you can never lubricate too much 😁. Stay warm! NYC's mid teens weather is like a walk in the park for you guys!
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Great detailed video thank you for the time you’ve put into this. I’ll be applying your techniques. One thing I strongly disagree with is that it is acceptable for Dewalt to put out a key component substandard miter gauge and slots in a premium priced tablesaw using excuse that it is used in construction sites. Especially when you consider that they have had over five years to address this issue. There are numerous people that buy to use at home.
Yeah, I understand what you're saying. I don't think there is enough of a market to cater to small space/home owners/woodworkers to be profitable. But it certainly would be great if the mold for the top was addressed.
@@hansangb I mean, there probably is . . . Just not at an economical price point. Like, it's easy to imagine a hypothetical 'maker saw' for a small home workshop, i.e. better dust collection, a cast iron top, more precision, etc, but I don't think the feature set on such a dream saw could be reconciled with the simplicity and portability desired in a job saw. I mean, I was perusing the older manuals for this model and the European version used to be sold with a 2 inch aluminum extension on the back of the table that Dewalt Assured would be deleted on later models once the regulations were changed in order to make it even lighter. This should tell you how important they think shaving weight is for their core customers. That said, it is REALLY unfortunate Dewalt doesn't sell this saw sans rolling stand though. I think potentially lowering the price by another hundred dollars with that option would make its shortcomings even more forgivable.
@@Bustermachine I thought the DWE745 was the one w/o the rolling stand? I'm not sure as I didn't look too carefully but the spec's seemed all the same. I don't know if the market is big enough for a maker saw like you mentioned. I'd buy it, but it's probably a small market. I'm in technology by trade and I remember an article about an author who's a venerable rockstar in the technical book world. Jeff Doyle. Basically wrote one of the industry bibles called "Routing TCP/IP" Funny how the word router straddles both of my world! Anyway, one of the editors said something like "oh sure, Jeff sold lot of books for sure. But keep in mind that a regular bestseller sells in the tens of millions or more, not hundreds of thousands" And at a $400-$600 price point, it's not an impulse kickstarter buy either.
@@hansangb I mean it wouldn't be the most expensive thing to get kickstarted. And it would certainly be a better investment than Juicero :p Anyways. The DW745 is about 40% smaller in table area. Has 8.5 inches less maximum cur width using the fence. The miter track is a trench rather than a t slot. And it doesn't have an arbor large enough to support a dado stack.
This saw is not without its flaws, but based on the reviews of various saws targeted at the same market the Dewalt is actually one of the superior models.
Great video! I have the same table saw and I am thinking about buying the same miter gauge. Going back and fourth between this and the Rockler miter gauge. I admire your perseverance in solving all the problems you ran into with this combination. All the best!
Thanks I've not used the Rockler one, but the one thing that you should be careful if you get it is that stop block isn't wide. I'm sure it'll deflect if you shove your piece into it. So long as you're careful about it, or pick up Katz-Moses stop block, it should be OK. Having said that, this may be a case of buy once cry once. Either way, enjoy which ever one you choose.
I adore these job saws and anything that can be done to get more performance out of them. As an all around maker I simply don't have the floor space to dedicate to a full woodshop even though I have access to a fairly large work space.
@@hansangb Well I would literally (used incorrectly) murder for someone to develop a 'maker' saw. Basically a job sized saw built to woodworking precision. I've heard Sawstop's offering comes close, but it's also a $1500 premium job saw.
@@Bustermachine Yeah, SawStop is probably the next best option. I like how that saw opens and closes. This DeWalt saw is easy, but harder to deploy in tight spaces (due to legs having to extend first). I guess one could consider the $1400 as insurance for keeping your fingers! :) I may get that next. Ultimately, I think it's a cost/weight issue for portable saw and maintaining accuracy. I'd love to see it myself, though.
I am about to start this process. I have been using it for about 2 years binding and sticking. I got so frustrated messing with it that I just started using it. Thank You for the help! 👍🏻👍🏻
Just a few days ago I finally received my Incra Knock-off (banggood) that I ordered about 3 months ago. I am so far impressed with the quality of the actual tool, but my DW745 (genuine DW) miter track had the exact same issues. You're video appears to be precisely the remedy to my sloppiness concern. I see that the miter on a Dewalt jobsite table saw isn't the same, my 745 has a simple channel, where yours has the additional groove along the bottom plane. My new china knockoff miter gauge is rather impressive, and 100% better than the included pretend gauge included with the saw, as well as 99% better than any of the varying qualities of several old Craftsman miter gauges I've accumulated, the clearly most notable difference to the INCRA you have is the 6 spacer adjustments. Mine has 4, all along the same shared edge. Maybe one day I'll jump to the Incra tax bracket! I watched an interesting series of vids that focus on the banggood china parts and found it to be a viable option. Thanks for the VERY informative video! 8o)
Yes, I've seen a few. Inspire Woodcraft channel as comparisons of Banggood knockoff's vs the real deal. It's pretty interesting. Hope your spacers can expand enough to fill you miter slot.
your video is exactly what i needed to watch. I have a Dewalt DWE7491RS and am planning to buy the Incra 1000SE, but have been reading negative reviews on the Incra miter bar. If you are pleased with it, I think I'm gonna go and get mine now. Thank you very much!
I think you'll be happy. Like I said, I've been meaning to make a sled for a long time, but Incra makes it almost redundant for safe cross-cuts. Glad it helped!
So glad I saw this demo. I purchased the Bangood for my Dewalt 6480. Having the same issues, but the Inca has double the adjustment doo dads, there. I have my washers all wrong too.. Will try and see if your fix works for the Bangood. Thanks again for taking the time to show this.
@@jmadd1000 These things come to mind. 1) Clean your blade if there's pitch build up. If you cut a lot of pine, the residue can really mess you up. There are countless videos on how to clean the blade. 2) Use a crosscut blade if you can. Smaller teeth but more of them helps with cutting across the fibers. Rip cut blades have larger teeth but less of them (easier to make rip cuts on the blade). Rip cut blades tend to make rougher cuts by design 3) Use a sharp utility knife and score the wood on the "good" side of the wood. The part that you're going to use. If you want to save both sides of the cut, score two lines 1/8" apart (width of your blade). Because you scored the line, there won't be as much tearout 4) Use a backer board to prevent tearout at the end of the cut. Supporting the fibers with a backer board will prevent tear out. 5) Use a zero clearance insert on the saw. Same concept as having a backer board. Providing support helps. hope that helps
Ok excellent scientific approach to your teaching method, the screws starting from the top to the bottom worked like i knew what i was doing lol...now i tackle the sled, but i think the tough part is over and honestly if i have to cut the sled as i've seen on some video...that scares the shit out of me! Thanks again for your advice.
I used blue painters tape along the table saw track to close the gap. I used 2 layers. I worked perfectly. Perhaps you can keep the included factory Dewalt miter.
You certainly can. But the Incra is superior in EVERY possible way. Of course, it comes with a cost. Also, if you fit it for the DeWalt miter, you have to do the Incra after that. Incra is adjustable to a degree, but Dewalt one is not. It's more expensive, but I can't imagine going back to the factory one.
Thank you so very much for this video, I keep a Dewalt shed myself and space it very tight. We have the same rigs. I was kinda scared with my Incra value combo because I thought that the DWE7491RS would be compatible with Incra, but Mark over at Incra told me that it would work just fine. My DWE7491RS has no issues, but it sure was nice to see that you post this video and how to overcome your challenge with the side to side wobble. I could use this tip for other tools if they were to arise. I sure would like to see what you are able to build in your tiny space!
Camilo, you have the miter express combo package? I have a DWE7491RS too, and I was wondering if the miter express sled would be compatible. Did you have any problems with the miter bars for the sled fitting the miter slots on the saw? How do you like it, overall?
I bought the rockler cross cut sled and it has adjustable ball bearings and it was eating up the anodized in the miter so i made a runner or bar out of oak, and waxed it and it works great, probably not as good as this but.....
Ah, makes sense. Yeah, the Incra has plastic washers so it'll wear down before the slot. But the same principle (of sanding the slot) would work for your hardwood runners if it ever sticks.
Thank for putting your very helpful video out. One point it didn't cover is catching the front edge of the table as you push the gauge up the slot. on my miter gauge, it sits a bit low and catches as it comes into contact with the front edge of the saw table. I've not been able to correct this yet.
When you say "front" is that the side you're standing or where the outfeed side is? I'm having a hard time visualizing the issue. The miter bumps up as you clear the table on the outfeed side?
@@hansangb Hi- thanks for your quick response. I will try and clarify. As I push the miter into the slot and when the support fence comes into contact with the table (Dewalt 745), it bumps up against the table. Thus I have to gentle lift it at this point. This makes using it with a wide piece of wood a bit tricky during the cut. I've not been able to get rid of this bumping. I was wondering if you ran into this issue and if so, how did you rectify it. Thanks again!
@@Thedestressguy Ah I see. No I do not have that issue. However, I made the runners a bit "taller" by putting plastic strips. I used a "for sale" sign from Home Depot and cut it into strips. double stick tape along the runners and it "fit" better for me. Maybe that's why I don't have the issue as the runner is in contact with the miter slot's bottom and thus no bumping up when the fence comes in contact with the saw table.
Thanks for the video. I’ll be trying this when I get a chance. I’m getting into woodworking and recently bought a dewalt job site saw and also noticed how the miter gauge was a little wobbly. I didn’t think it was a big deal until I made some angled cuts and realized they don’t line up. I was making the legs of a stool so I’m realizing your fix should give me the accuracy I need... that and a incra miter gauge.
It certainly will help you. But do keep in mind that the blade needs to be at 90 deg from the table top. So get a machinist square to make sure the blade is orthogonal to the table. Finally, make sure the blade is parallel to the miter/fence. There are any number of videos that walk you through tuning up table saws. You don't need dial indicators to do this. A simple metal ruler works just as well. Good luck!
3M manufacture a UHMWPE adhesive tape ( ultra high molecular weight polyethylene), applied to the bottom of the guide as many layers as you require to get the desired thickness, this works extremely well improving the smooth operation of the guide. I still have the bumps and lumps in the channel of my dewalt saw so will try your sandpaper method to see if I can solve the final piece of the puzzle. ps the UHMW tape is hard to find (in Australia) but it is out there.
I could not get that fancy tape, but found Scotch Magic Tape works. Used it on the mitre gauge that came with the saw to make it fit snugly and slide smoothly.
Hey Airborne! Nice presentation. My DeWalt is the DW745, smaller than yours. In addition to the uneven surface, I also found width of the miter slots varied. Also, even after getting the Incra V27 miter gauge dialed in fairly well, it would get loose and sloppy when the first adjustment washers emerged from the rear of the miter slot. In contrast, the miter slots on my old 1983 Craftsman table saw were machined into the cast iron, and the miter gauge fits perfectly! I do like the rack and pinion system for the fence on DeWalt table saws, but this is just one example of the issues encountered. The first unit was so bad DeWalt simply replaced it. The second unit has also had a number of issues, but not quite as bad. Glad to hear you were able to resolve your issues. Airborne, all the way! Stay well.
All The Way! :) Yes, I wish my saw had a nice cast iron top so I can use the mag switches. They look awesome. But I guess when you have to weigh - well, the weight - for portability, you have to cut some corners. And after watching AvE for a while, I've been trained to look for molds that may be on its last leg.
So, having posted on this video a couple times. I just finished the assembly of the saw table for my 7491. I built the table using a borrowed 745 and today I set to work dialing in the saw blade and fence. Took a while but I got the fence and blade parallel to with .005 inches. Which I think is respectable for a job site saw. I have to ask, has anyone else had trouble with this Saw's fence being really out of true with the table top? Checking with my right angles showed it wasnt remotely square and I in fact noticed it by visual inspection even before that! I was able to trace the problem to the fence design, those long plastic hook arms. Shiming with painters tape solved the problem nicely. But it was pretty egregious.
Awesome! I'm so happy I found your video. I too have a very small workshop so I purchased a Dewalt DWE7485 saw to save space. Thanks again for taking the time to post this information!
I have the exact same setup, i hope it works out for me as it did for you. I just recieved my incra miter gauge, so im hoping to mess with it soon. But your video is alot of help. Thank you.
I didn't have an issue with the bed. But if you took your time, and used a long level, I'm sure you'd be able to knock off the peaks. Sort of like planing a crowned 2x4 in the wall.
Just bought this saw and ordered the incra aswell. If I have this issue I know how to fix it thanks to you. I was wondering if you know how to square the fence to the table top. I already aligned the fence with the saw blade but when I butted my square against the fence I noticed its not quite 90 degrees. I have looked in the manual and searched online but I am unable to get any information. You seem very knowledgeable about this saw so I figured I would ask thanks.
LOL 4th point of contact. Ahh memories. I'm going to have to reference back to this video when I recalibrate my miter gauge in a few weeks. I noticed the exact same problems with mine and never got it fully dialed in. Have you seen Izzy Swan's infeed and outfeed supports for these saws?
@@hansangb Checkout Laguna as well, they're offerings look pretty solid and are ~1/2 the cost of the SawStop. Obviously lacking the safety features, but if a cabinet saw is what you want they're worth a look as a middle ground between Grizzley/ShopFox and Sawstop. Shop Nation has a video on his.
Thank you for producing such a useful and thoughtful video. But I have a question about your using a sanding block to buff out irregularities in the miter slot. (The bottom of the slot on my DEW7491RS has some amazingly large and long such irregularities. It's a shame that DeWalt doesn't buff out the irregularities issue during manufacturing.) It is unclear to me from watching the video exactly what width of block you used for this. Was it a full-wide 3/4" block or did you use a narrower block width such as 1/2" or 5/8" to avoid accidentally widening the slot itself as you sanded? Did you consider or try spray attaching the sandpaper to only the bottom of the sanding block to avoid my concern of possibly widening the slot? Thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate it. I'm pretty sure I used 3/4" plywood (so really 23/32") Also, you can use 1/2" plywood with no issues. My slot was a little wider than 3/4" so I it didn't widen the slot. Also, I wasn't really sanding both sides at the same time, I took it one side at a time. It doesn't take much at all to sand off the nibs. So take your time and try out the mitersled for fit.
I appreciate that Craig. But there are quite few GREAT videos on calibrating DeWalt saws. Here's one from Tamar ua-cam.com/video/bVWk6D0UBhU/v-deo.html And there are others from StumpyNubs. BTW, you don't have to use a dial indicator. You can use a metal ruler (but I'd advise against using a tape ruler) The ruler markings don't have to start on the edge either. So long as it's consistent from front to back, you're good to go. Of course, having a dial indicator makes it easier.
@@hansangb no problem. I do have the basics (fence and blade to miter gauge) done, but was really curious if you had any other details on things you do for this saw. Appreciate the response!
I came to your site to watch some wireshark videos and then got this bonus video. I have the same Job Site saw you have and have worried about the accuracy and you just lead me down the right road. Do you have any tips on how to make sure your fence stays straight?
Ah, the saw/motor/blade assembly (trunnion) is adjustable. In fact, 3x3 Creations (Tamar) had a great video on how to adjust it. And I never had a problem with the fence. It's actually rack-n-pinion so it moves in sync/parallel quite well. I never had to adjust it, but I don't recall if it had a way of adjusting it. I let someone borrow it, so I don't have it on hand to go check it out.
This is what I was looking for. Like you say it’s a jobsite saw. It’s an awesome saw, just not accurate with the provided mitre gage. I’ll look at getting the Incra setup.
I appreciate it. I have other small tools from Incra (but not miters/router jigs) I'll post the video on Kreg featherboard mod for this DeWalt tablesaw (hopefully) soon
I think for tablesaws, it's OK to have a regular slot vs t slot. But I would agree it's better to have one than not. I just modified a Kregg featherboard and that does require a T track to work properly. Video going up soon.
Good job on the video, You're a well spoken man and speak slower and clearer than most on here, which this old man appreciates. I just accepted delivery of this saw and was aware of this problem before I bought it. Has Incra (sp) fixed this so I don't have to go through Tech support?
The real fix is on the DeWalt side. I can't even really call it a "fix" since it's within operating tolerance for a jobsite saw. If the plastic/ring inserts aren't large enough, give support a call and they'll ship you the slightly bigger ones. And thanks for the compliment!
@@hansangb Yes you are right. I reread my comment and didn’t mean to put you in the middle, just was wondering if you knew. I did a lot of research and knew what I was buying and the drawbacks. Hope you do a few more wood working videos, you have the knack to explain things. Cheers from Arizona!
Came here for the dewalt , and now going to watch your wife shark video. I have some intermittent jumbos from a external data feed I need to track down
Put a buffing wheel on your Dremel and get a metal polishing stick and load it up. Buff the sides of the slot to a super smooth finish. Next take some Johnson paste wax, the real wax not the synthetic stuff and apply it to the slot and even the table top. It will be totally worth it. You may have to readjust the thing again but not much.
I thought about that. But I was worried that I would create my own peaks and valleys. And it only took a few swipes with a known flat piece of plywood + sandpaper
@@hansangb I've buffed a lot of aluminum and it doesn't remove enough material to create any irregularities. Run the tool at a lower RPM and keep it moving.
So I'm a little late to the party but agree this was truly helpful video. One question I have regarding the same set up with table saw and miter (and I'm fairly new to woodworking so maybe this is not a real problem). Are you limited to board widths that keep the incra on the tabletop itself? That is, anything width that makes the gauge jutt beyond the table edge will make require some wrist acrobatics to prevent from catching (I have invested in the incra sled but not set up yet)? It is a heavy enough gauge. Mine (after a sacrificial fence in front) even tips a little to the side but I'm hoping after tightening properly I'll likely be fine
Yes, the fence is too back-heavy so it's very hard to keep the fence level. It'll start rocking back and forth. You can use your sled to maker safe cross cuts, though. And the two things I always do before cutting is to, one: mentally go through what's going to happen (sometimes with larger pieces I do dry run w/ the blade all the way down) and two: make note of what push block action I need to keep my hands away from the blade to make an accurate and safe cuts. When you're cutting, you really want to be looking at the fence to make sure the wood is square to the fence. It just takes one second of lapse in judgement to have a life changing accident. And thanks for watching!
Are you sure your blade is square? Otherwise, you'll be chasing your tail. Have a look at Tamar's 3x3 Custom youtube channel. She has a great video on moving the entire assembly to make sure the blade is square to the miter. Sorry for the late reply. For some reason, it was flagged as needing review.
Fantastic video! I just bought the 1000SE yesterday and am going to install it on my Dewalt 7491. My question is.... Do you lightly sand just the one wall of the miter slot or both walls? In your video, it looks like your sanding just the left hand wall of that slot, where your marks are.
thanks, yeah just the left side of the miter where the marks were. But when you wet your finger and run it down the track, you'll feel the bumps. My guess is that there are quite a few molds they use and different saws will have different peaks and valleys.
Wouldn't it be better to put something (like low friction tape) on the bottom of the gauge itself instead of putting something on the bottom of the rail? That way the gauge is riding on the table which is presumably flat the same way a sled would, rather than the rail riding on the bottom of the track, which I assume you can't guarantee is flat? EDIT: I guess that might affect the rotation. There might be enough room for very thin tape but there might not be. The tape might work on the bottom of the fence. EDIT 2: Here's what I found with my saw: Got the bar to fit great without any sanding. I ended up putting UHMW tape (low-friction tape, 10 mil) on the bottom of the protractor and it did not impede the rotation. I tested it first by putting it only where a 45 degree angle wouldn't encounter it, then rotated it past that and found it didn't bind the protractor at all so I put it on all of it. I also put it on the bottom of the fence but I noticed the rotating protractor does bind there so I only put it up to 45 degrees which is probably the biggest angle I'll use this for. I noticed the bar rides up on me at 90 degrees. In other words if I have the gauge totally on the table, I can press down on the bar near the protractor and it bobs up and down. If the gauge is at 45, this doesn't happen, probably because more of the gauge is covering the bar? Or maybe because the weight distribution of the gauge is different, I don't know. I'm trying to cut a dado in a wide (15 inch) piece of plywood but you have to start with too much of the gauge off the table to be safe. I just bought an adjustable stand (Bora Portamate PM-5093) that can be used as either a roller or stationery stand so I'll use that as a platform to start the gauge on at the same height.
Yes, I was afraid of the rotation of the miter. But there's probably a little room there to do what you suggested. The other consideration was going straight back and forth (from the tape's perspective) vs going at an angle and being subjected to the rotation. But there's really no friction to worry about so we both may be over thinking it.
@@hansangb I don't understand why they made the bottom of the protractor that way. It's very rough like it's meant to grip when it should be made to slide easily. I think I might try to sand and wax the protractor bottom instead. I can't think of any reason why I would want that to be so rough that it scratches the table.
have you purchased the sled? i'm thinking about getting both but i want to get some input as i have the dwe7591 as well- thanks for the informative video.
You're quite welcome. Are you talking about the Incra sled? I think I mentioned I had the (sled) runners from Microjig, is that what you mean? I haven't yet, but I'm actually getting close to making a basic sled using those runners.
@@michaelbaykara2322 Michael, no, I haven't used that one. But with the fix addressed in this video, I don't think you'll have any issues with their sled.
Excellent presentation--clear and informative. Hansang, I hear you praise the Incra 1000SE, used with the Dewalt jobsite saw, and then I hear you caution that this miter gauge might be back heavy and causes you to be very careful about maintaining the right pressure to keep it flat on the table saw. Is the Incra 1000SE overkill (and almost too big) for this Dewalt jobsite saw? I''ve got the same table saw and have been debating what miter gauge I should buy to replace the pityful one that came with the saw. Did you consider other miter gauges and if so, which ones, and what made you decide on the 1000SE?
TY! The back heavy part can be solved with an extension if you'd like. But in every day use, I find that it's really not that big of an issue. The cuts are shallow enough that the miter is fully seated on the tablesaw. If things get dicey, I'll just make a sled. But this miter has allowed me to put that off. I chose this miter gauge because of the fine angle control. It's very easy to dial it in. I like the stop as well. Although you can set two stops by flipping one or the other, I prefer to use it as one stop. It makes it more rigid so I don't have to worry about it flexing. So the question is, would I buy this again? Yes I would. Also, the support was fantastic when I emailed about the issue. Good luck on which ever route you take.
Hey Hansang, fantastic video! I had the same problem and this worked like a charm, but now I'm having issues making accurate angled cuts. I've tried every which way to dial in the gauge so it's square, but nothing seems to work. Curious if you have any advice? I'm beginning to suspect it has something to do with the miter slot being out of alignment with my blade.
Glad it helped. What I'm thinking is that your blade is not parallel to the miter slot. You can check a number of ways using metal rulers or dial gauge if you happen to have one. Do a google search on "3X3 How to Align your Table Saw Blade" (or any other ones) and you'll get an idea of what's involved. You have to be a little patient dialing it in, but it's well worth it (and not hard to do). Hope that helps
@@hansangb @john rhodes Really, how hard should it be for a giant tool company to mill a precise miter slot even on a jobsite saw?! And that included miter gauge is just atrocious...again, even for a jobsite saw. It's actually dangerous and a safety issue IMO. Sure, I still love my 7491RS, but it shows the lack of DeWalt's dedication and attention to true quality. The 7491RS isn't exactly an inexpensive saw and it's not considered a "budget" saw IMO, but it definitely has "budget-grade" miter slots and miter bar/guages! SMH I have the same INCRA miter guage and it is excellent, but your tips here make it even better! Thanks! FYI, there is an Extremely Nice copy of the INCRA miter gauge available on the www.banggood.com website! The fence is decent as well. Also, invest in the Zero-Clearance Insert Plate or DIY one for your saw. :) For a DIY Zero-Clearance Insert Plate, drill a 3/8" hole centered about 3/16" forward and centered left-to-right in front of the blade. And also drill a row of smaller 1/4" holes along the LEFT side of the blade (centered between the blade and the Left edge of the insert plate). Under the insert plate along the left side you will see a narrow aluminum "shelf" that is part of the blade housing and trunion. Drill your holes in the insert just to the right of this aluminum strip so that the airflow has an unobstructed path down into the blade housing. Lightly chamfer or round-over the holes in the insert plate. Putting holes along the Right side of the blade offer no advantage for dust collection. And IME the holes on the Left side of the blade only need to run from the center of the arbor/shaft and forward. The holes in the insert plate help to create a better down-draft for improved dust collection. Watch Dennis' "Best Zero Clearance Insert Plate" video on his *Hooked On Wood* UA-cam channel. Unfortunately, there are WAY too many air gaps and openings in the "enclosed blade box" and trunion underneath the DeWalt DWE-7491RS table saws, and this severely reduces the effectiveness of the dust collection. And these gaps are not easy to seal because of the design of the height & tilt mechanism or trunion. :( But try to at least seal the gap underneath the saw at the Front of the Blade Box with an appropriately cut block of soft, squishy, open cell foam that will easily expand and contract because it will get compressed when you angle the blade for bevel cuts. The saw blade on the 7491 spits A LOT of dust forward through this large forward opening that is just under the table surface. Also try to seal the long, narrow slot or gap between the underside of the table and the flexible fabric blade box liner which runs along the top right side of the blade with some open cell foam. 1/2" thick and 3/4" to 1" wide rubberized self-adhesive weatherstripping works well for this. You could leave a bit of the forward section open to help guide the extraction airflow from the front of the blade down & towards the rear dust port connection. I also modified a large aluminum cookie/baking sheet (cut with a jigsaw) to fit under the saw horizontally between the rolling base and the main chassis of the saw in order to catch the remaining sawdust that isn't captured by the vacuum via the rear port. When combined, all of these mods help to collect much more of the sawdust that is otherwise scattered everywhere in your shop or in your client's home or yard.
Do you have any problem when you have the fence set up off to one side of the blade? I have a similar setup (Milwaukee instead of dewalt) and I find when I have the fence set up I can’t make crosscuts longer than 4 1/2” because the fence needs to stay on the (relatively shallow) table. Does anyone else run into that? Not sure if there’s a solution but a consideration for anyone else with a smaller saw that’s looking at this.
I thought you were talking about the tablesaw fence at first. What Kasen is talking about is the width of the board being crosscut. So the distance between the blade teeth to the Incra fence. I don't recall exactly what the distance is. Of course, it depends on the height of the blade as well. I have backed out the fence off the table but I had to make sure two of the "donuts" were in the miter slot to maintain square. If you have to cut wider boards, tablesled is probably your best option (other than a bigger saw). Of course, if you could build an infeed table or temporarily make one using sawhorse/tables and scrap wood. But at that point, why not make a table sled.
@@conway5901 It's 7/8th. Remember though, that you can't just use a crescent wrench, you have to use a slim wrench on the "inside". Have a look at bicycle wrenches, they tend to be slim. Just make sure the length of the wrench is long enough. Replacement wrenches are like $15.
Hi, I have the same Dewalt table saw. I recently bought the 18" aluminum miter slider bars so I can make a jig. Took the allen wrench, and adjusted counter-clockwise, and nothing (still a lot of play, and no adjustments to make any change). Wondering if these Incra bars will work. Have you tried these? Would it be better to use the SE steel sliders? Thanks.
I haven't used the Incra SE sliders. But I have to think it's the same washers, it sure looks the same. But you have to make *sure* the slot of the washer is in the right position (shown in my video). Also, if you contact support, they will give you a different set of washers that will spread out more. But yes, the 1000SE miter bar works perfectly on the saw.
Hello. Can you enable multilanguage translation? I am writing to you from Spain and unfortunately I have a very low level of English. His video is very very interesting and surely more people like me would like to be able to understand everything he says well. Many thanks!!!
Fernando, I think I enabled CC and added Spanish. Let's give it a day to see if it kicks in. If it doesn't I'll check it out to see what I might have missed.
@@hansangb Thank you very much for your attention. At the moment, it still cannot be translated into Spanish texts. I see that the subtitles box already appears, but when I click on it, it says that subtitles are not enabled. Anyway, I am very grateful to you for such a good intention. All the best. Fernando Martinez
I had to upload a new video. The current video won't do it for some reason. Here's the same video but with captions (I tested Spanish and it seems to work) ua-cam.com/video/dX1o85OxI1k/v-deo.html
Other slot like on a different saw? I don't see why not, it's a normal T-slot. If you the other miter slot, then no because Incra miters only come with one t track.
@@Peter-976 Oh. Gotcha. Honestly, I never needed to use the Incra on the right side miter so I never got to it. I was saving it to fit the MicroJig adjustable miter bar for my tablesaw sled. But again, Incra does such a good job that the sled has been put on the back burner. But it's the exact same problem with same dimensions as the left bar. I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work. FYI, I did feel the same ridges/bumps on the right miter slot. So it does have the same problem.
please can you tell me why big flash and sparks coming out from the motor when i press the red button to stop??i bought the machine today brand new..ty
I'm pretty sure it's the braking built into the tablesaw. My guess is that when you turn off the saw, the blade slows down rather quickly? You can confirm with DeWalt, but braking is probably the cause of it and not anything to be worried about.
Great detailed walk-through. I'm thinking of investing in this table saw setup. Question though...would you buy this rig again, knowing what you know now. If not, then what other contenders would you have? Thanks again, Clive
Thanks for the kind feedback. Things I like: This saw comes with dual dust collection capability. The safety guard/shroud has a dust port on it as does the bottom of the saw. Even when you don't use the guard/shroud, it does a great job of dust collection. The extension of the legs is easy. You can use your feet so you don't have to bend down for the "lower" legs. Basically, you pull up on two legs, and push down on two legs to deploy the saw. Again, not critical but when you have fold it and unfold it due to space limitations it quickly rises to the top of the list. I like the large off button that you can hit with your body. I think the width of maximum cut is about the same as most saws in this class. The ease of arbor access is about the same, I think. One additional note, the bolts to align the blade (to square it up at 90 deg) is easily accessible. I haven't had to adjust it (I did it just to try it) but being that it's meant to be dragged around a job site, I can see why it's important to have easy access. I take care of it like it's a baby so I don't have that problem! :) Finally, as a reference, I have a 2.5HP Armor All vacuum and a Dust Deputy connected to it. And it does a good job of collecting the dust. I only use the bottom port because I don't know if 2.5HP vacuum can use a Y adapter, but if you have a more powerful vacuum, the top and bottom dust collection should be great. It's already good enough for me to use in a garage with the bottom port.
Hansang Bae Thanks for detailed info. I decided to get one but then no luck finding anywhere in the UK that has one in stock or any idea of a delivery date. Oh well, I’ll just have to wait I guess!!
The problem isn't the track in the miter gauge. The miter slot has peaks and valleys which prevents tight engagement. So getting a new track for the gauge won't help at all.
@@moldprintsrl imagine the injection mold is getting long in the tooth. Again, fine for jobsite saw, but for those of using it for woodworking, it's a simple enough of a fix.
Thank you so much for creating this video. I got the Incra system along with the Dewalt tablesaw and I was able to make it work in only 30 minutes following your suggestions. You are a lifesaver and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge with everyone
Larry, happy to hear you got it going! Enjoy the tools.
Thanks for putting a thoroughly explained video on fitting an Incra to the Dewalt. It's exactly where I'm at and you have probably saved me some time as I attempt to adjust mine to the saw.
You're quite welcome! Enjoy the new miter gauge.
Thanks for making this video I have this saw and I added 2 layers of Aluminum Foil Duct Tape to the sides and bottom of miter to tighten the tolerances between the track and miter. This is only a temporary fix.
You're welcome. Glad I could help
As soon as you said "four points of contact" I knew exactly the reference! Thank you for serving our country.
Kevin, the way I see it there were 35K KIA's in the Korean war. That's just US (never mind all of the UN countries) It really was the *least* I could do to pay it back. Thank you.
Thanks for your service! Great video, I'm in the process of trying to buy this saw but it's out of stock at both Lowes and Home Depot. By the way, I was stationed at Camp Casey ROK while attached to 2nd ID. Really liked the Korean culture.
@@jmahtab Ahh good old Camp Casey! FYI, 8th Army HQ moved to Camp Humphreys. Must to the dismay of Itaewon vendors, I'm sure. Finally, don't forget that HD and Lowes offers 10% discount for most store bought things. With Lowes, you register and it's automatic. With HD, you have to bring your ID or DD214. Good luck with snagging the saw!
Thanks for the video! I have just received my Incra and, whilst it is almost setup with my DeWalt, these tips will finish the job perfectly!
Enjoy! I'm sure you'll like the results
Man! Almost a year ago! Freakin' heck! I don't know why it's taken me so long to find this vid! I've had this problem for freakin' years! Thank you! Well done!
Good luck with the fix and let us know how it turns out.
In Life lessons, the details matter, no matter what your doing. GREAT JOB
I appreciate that Richard.
I should clarify. At 8:13 mark, I should have said that I placed yet another layer of double stick tape to the plastic. Of course, I didn't peel the tape on the side that touches the miter. . So the layers are: Miter bar, double stick tape, plastic sign cut to width, and another layer of double stick tape (without removing the covering on one side)
my Incra 1000HD arrives in a few days...to be used with the 7491. soo thankful to come across this video as I'm sure it will help me dial it in. thank you!!
Enjoy the miter gauge. It's quality kit and you won't be disappointed by it. And the dialing in the miter slot is very easy.
I don't have an Incra miter gage but I have the same saw and I made runners for a crosscut sled. The tip for sanding the miter slots in the table was very helpful. Thanks
Thanks. Glad it helped.
Excellent video and explanation. I too ran into the same issues with an Incra miter gauge. I contacted the good folks at Incra who made the same recommendations as to placement of the slot on the washer and lithium grease on the screw threads. The rep, seeing that I live in MN asked, "Where's your shop?" I responded that it's in a garage heated to ~50F. The rep also suggested that I use a heat gun to warm up the washers a bit which makes them a bit more flexible. This worked perfectly. I didn't have the issue of "bumps" in the miter slots requiring the use of sandpaper for removal. But a quick clean of the miter slots with acetone followed by a bit of paste wax really smoothed out the action of the miter in the slot. Just my $0.02 worth. Thanks again, Hansang.
Thanks for sharing the additional tips. You can never have too many clamps and you can never lubricate too much 😁. Stay warm! NYC's mid teens weather is like a walk in the park for you guys!
Really love the usage of the sign strip to raise things up. I’ll try that out. Thanks!
Just did this yesterday on my DWE7491. I opted for the Scotch 1/2" double-sided tape and it worked great! Thank you for the video!
Awesome to hear! Thanks for checking in
You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.
Just subscribed! What a great video. Well explained, to the point, no stupid background music, etc. Thanks a million!
Appreciate that. Yeah, I didn't think adding Enya as the background music was appropriate 😂
This is fantastic. I also have small shop and knew I needed to upgrade my miter. I am very grateful for this video.
You're quite welcome and thanks for the kind words.
Thank you so much for this. I've been struggling for so long trying to get my mitre to work with my tablesaw
You bet. Hope you get the results that I got.
Great detailed video thank you for the time you’ve put into this. I’ll be applying your techniques. One thing I strongly disagree with is that it is acceptable for Dewalt to put out a key component substandard miter gauge and slots in a premium priced tablesaw using excuse that it is used in construction sites. Especially when you consider that they have had over five years to address this issue. There are numerous people that buy to use at home.
Yeah, I understand what you're saying. I don't think there is enough of a market to cater to small space/home owners/woodworkers to be profitable. But it certainly would be great if the mold for the top was addressed.
@@hansangb I mean, there probably is . . . Just not at an economical price point. Like, it's easy to imagine a hypothetical 'maker saw' for a small home workshop, i.e. better dust collection, a cast iron top, more precision, etc, but I don't think the feature set on such a dream saw could be reconciled with the simplicity and portability desired in a job saw.
I mean, I was perusing the older manuals for this model and the European version used to be sold with a 2 inch aluminum extension on the back of the table that Dewalt Assured would be deleted on later models once the regulations were changed in order to make it even lighter.
This should tell you how important they think shaving weight is for their core customers.
That said, it is REALLY unfortunate Dewalt doesn't sell this saw sans rolling stand though. I think potentially lowering the price by another hundred dollars with that option would make its shortcomings even more forgivable.
@@Bustermachine I thought the DWE745 was the one w/o the rolling stand? I'm not sure as I didn't look too carefully but the spec's seemed all the same. I don't know if the market is big enough for a maker saw like you mentioned. I'd buy it, but it's probably a small market. I'm in technology by trade and I remember an article about an author who's a venerable rockstar in the technical book world. Jeff Doyle. Basically wrote one of the industry bibles called "Routing TCP/IP" Funny how the word router straddles both of my world! Anyway, one of the editors said something like "oh sure, Jeff sold lot of books for sure. But keep in mind that a regular bestseller sells in the tens of millions or more, not hundreds of thousands" And at a $400-$600 price point, it's not an impulse kickstarter buy either.
@@hansangb I mean it wouldn't be the most expensive thing to get kickstarted.
And it would certainly be a better investment than Juicero :p
Anyways. The DW745 is about 40% smaller in table area. Has 8.5 inches less maximum cur width using the fence. The miter track is a trench rather than a t slot. And it doesn't have an arbor large enough to support a dado stack.
I bought the Incra miter bars and returned them because I couldn't get it to work. Thanks to your video I will give them another shot.
I think you'll like it! If you have any questions, do let me know.
Thank you for this video. I have no doubt I will encounter the same issue when my 1000SE arrives and this will save me a lot of time and aggravation.
You're welcome. Enjoy the new Incra miter gauge. It worked exceedingly well for me.
This saw is not without its flaws, but based on the reviews of various saws targeted at the same market the Dewalt is actually one of the superior models.
Yup. 100% agree. As I mentioned, it's a job site saw. It can't be a job site saw and a professional cabinet saw at the same time.
Perfect video for me. I have the same saw and thinking about upgrading the miter. I will probably go with the Incra now. Thanks!
Glad it helped. It is a sweet miter, that's for sure.
Had the same sticking problem with my Dewalt jobsite saw and Incra V 120 miter. Now I know how to fix it. Thank you for sharing this!
You're quite welcome. I think you'll like the results!
Great video!
I have the same table saw and I am thinking about buying the same miter gauge. Going back and fourth between this and the Rockler miter gauge. I admire your perseverance in solving all the problems you ran into with this combination.
All the best!
Thanks I've not used the Rockler one, but the one thing that you should be careful if you get it is that stop block isn't wide. I'm sure it'll deflect if you shove your piece into it. So long as you're careful about it, or pick up Katz-Moses stop block, it should be OK. Having said that, this may be a case of buy once cry once. Either way, enjoy which ever one you choose.
As others have said, great video filled with useful information.
I have exactly that combination of tools and your video is wonderfully helpful.
@williamhenry4542, appreciate the kind words. Enjoy your setup!
I adore these job saws and anything that can be done to get more performance out of them. As an all around maker I simply don't have the floor space to dedicate to a full woodshop even though I have access to a fairly large work space.
Next video is how to get Kregg feather boards to work. And it costs literally 50¢. And I'm using the word literally, correctly 🤣
@@hansangb Well I would literally (used incorrectly) murder for someone to develop a 'maker' saw. Basically a job sized saw built to woodworking precision. I've heard Sawstop's offering comes close, but it's also a $1500 premium job saw.
@@Bustermachine Yeah, SawStop is probably the next best option. I like how that saw opens and closes. This DeWalt saw is easy, but harder to deploy in tight spaces (due to legs having to extend first). I guess one could consider the $1400 as insurance for keeping your fingers! :) I may get that next. Ultimately, I think it's a cost/weight issue for portable saw and maintaining accuracy. I'd love to see it myself, though.
@@hansangb Probably also not that much of a market that isn't already being served by saw like this.
Outstanding presentation! 👍👍
Thank you! Much appreciated.
I am about to start this process. I have been using it for about 2 years binding and sticking. I got so frustrated messing with it that I just started using it.
Thank You for the help! 👍🏻👍🏻
Did it work out OK for you?
This is so perfect. Just got the Incra 1000SE for my Dewalt DWE7485 and your video helps a lot . Thanks Hansang for making this vid
It's my pleasure, Bruce. Enjoy both of the tools.
I just bought this table saw but haven't used it yet. I will be getting the Incra and doing what you suggest here. Glad I found this video. Thank you.
You're quite wlcome Phil! Enjoy them both
Thank you for that information. I just bought a DWE7491RS.
I think you'll enjoy it. The fence is quite good because it uses rack and pinion system
Thank you !! Watched the video after trying to set it up on my Dewalt. You confirmed what I was thinking about doing.
Have fun. I think you'll like the result!
Great video, already own the Incra 1000 Se and planning to buy a more spacesaving Dewalt 7491. Glad to have these setup tips.
Just a few days ago I finally received my Incra Knock-off (banggood) that I ordered about 3 months ago. I am so far impressed with the quality of the actual tool, but my DW745 (genuine DW) miter track had the exact same issues. You're video appears to be precisely the remedy to my sloppiness concern. I see that the miter on a Dewalt jobsite table saw isn't the same, my 745 has a simple channel, where yours has the additional groove along the bottom plane. My new china knockoff miter gauge is rather impressive, and 100% better than the included pretend gauge included with the saw, as well as 99% better than any of the varying qualities of several old Craftsman miter gauges I've accumulated, the clearly most notable difference to the INCRA you have is the 6 spacer adjustments. Mine has 4, all along the same shared edge. Maybe one day I'll jump to the Incra tax bracket!
I watched an interesting series of vids that focus on the banggood china parts and found it to be a viable option. Thanks for the VERY informative video! 8o)
Yes, I've seen a few. Inspire Woodcraft channel as comparisons of Banggood knockoff's vs the real deal. It's pretty interesting. Hope your spacers can expand enough to fill you miter slot.
I am having the same problem as you did. I didn’t think of the plastic on the bottom of the slide. Very good info. Thank you
You're quite welcome. It's easy enough process. And the outcome is *well* worth the 30 minutes of effort.
your video is exactly what i needed to watch. I have a Dewalt DWE7491RS and am planning to buy the Incra 1000SE, but have been reading negative reviews on the Incra miter bar. If you are pleased with it, I think I'm gonna go and get mine now. Thank you very much!
I think you'll be happy. Like I said, I've been meaning to make a sled for a long time, but Incra makes it almost redundant for safe cross-cuts. Glad it helped!
So glad I saw this demo. I purchased the Bangood for my Dewalt 6480. Having the same issues, but the Inca has double the adjustment doo dads, there. I have my washers all wrong too.. Will try and see if your fix works for the Bangood. Thanks again for taking the time to show this.
Thanks. Hope it works out!
@@hansangb It did, fits like a glove. thanks again.
This is fantastic - was getting seriously frustrated with my new Incra
Yeah, it's a quick and easy fix on the saw. It's been rock solid for me.
@@hansangb out of curiosity, do you work with the incra in the left groove or the right? The table is so darn small.
@@jmadd1000 Are you asking about which miter slot I use? The left one as you're facing the blade.
@@hansangb How do we prevent tear out during mitre cuts?
@@jmadd1000 These things come to mind. 1) Clean your blade if there's pitch build up. If you cut a lot of pine, the residue can really mess you up. There are countless videos on how to clean the blade. 2) Use a crosscut blade if you can. Smaller teeth but more of them helps with cutting across the fibers. Rip cut blades have larger teeth but less of them (easier to make rip cuts on the blade). Rip cut blades tend to make rougher cuts by design 3) Use a sharp utility knife and score the wood on the "good" side of the wood. The part that you're going to use. If you want to save both sides of the cut, score two lines 1/8" apart (width of your blade). Because you scored the line, there won't be as much tearout 4) Use a backer board to prevent tearout at the end of the cut. Supporting the fibers with a backer board will prevent tear out. 5) Use a zero clearance insert on the saw. Same concept as having a backer board. Providing support helps. hope that helps
Ok excellent scientific approach to your teaching method, the screws starting from the top to the bottom worked like i knew what i was doing lol...now i tackle the sled, but i think the tough part is over and honestly if i have to cut the sled as i've seen on some video...that scares the shit out of me! Thanks again for your advice.
Glad it was of assistance. Cutting sled seems like an extreme measure!
@@hansangb we'll see...going to try to get it done in a little while.
I used blue painters tape along the table saw track to close the gap. I used 2 layers. I worked perfectly. Perhaps you can keep the included factory Dewalt miter.
You certainly can. But the Incra is superior in EVERY possible way. Of course, it comes with a cost. Also, if you fit it for the DeWalt miter, you have to do the Incra after that. Incra is adjustable to a degree, but Dewalt one is not. It's more expensive, but I can't imagine going back to the factory one.
Thank you so very much for this video, I keep a Dewalt shed myself and space it very tight. We have the same rigs. I was kinda scared with my Incra value combo because I thought that the DWE7491RS would be compatible with Incra, but Mark over at Incra told me that it would work just fine. My DWE7491RS has no issues, but it sure was nice to see that you post this video and how to overcome your challenge with the side to side wobble. I could use this tip for other tools if they were to arise. I sure would like to see what you are able to build in your tiny space!
Thank you. I'm making a new and improved shop furniture! Have to maximize every inch! Lol
Camilo, you have the miter express combo package? I have a DWE7491RS too, and I was wondering if the miter express sled would be compatible. Did you have any problems with the miter bars for the sled fitting the miter slots on the saw? How do you like it, overall?
I bought the rockler cross cut sled and it has adjustable ball bearings and it was eating up the anodized in the miter so i made a runner or bar out of oak, and waxed it and it works great, probably not as good as this but.....
Ah, makes sense. Yeah, the Incra has plastic washers so it'll wear down before the slot. But the same principle (of sanding the slot) would work for your hardwood runners if it ever sticks.
Great vid! Works awesome. Have the same equip. And noticed the issue too. So grateful for you sharing this fix.
You're quite welcome! I'm glad it help.
What a great, clear video - so much appreciated, Hansang
Glad you found it useful! I'm loving my miter cuts 😁
@@hansangb I just ordered both the Dewalt and the Incra 1000SE so will let you know!
@@stevek4695 Enjoy it!
Thank for putting your very helpful video out. One point it didn't cover is catching the front edge of the table as you push the gauge up the slot. on my miter gauge, it sits a bit low and catches as it comes into contact with the front edge of the saw table. I've not been able to correct this yet.
When you say "front" is that the side you're standing or where the outfeed side is? I'm having a hard time visualizing the issue. The miter bumps up as you clear the table on the outfeed side?
@@hansangb Hi- thanks for your quick response. I will try and clarify. As I push the miter into the slot and when the support fence comes into contact with the table (Dewalt 745), it bumps up against the table. Thus I have to gentle lift it at this point. This makes using it with a wide piece of wood a bit tricky during the cut. I've not been able to get rid of this bumping. I was wondering if you ran into this issue and if so, how did you rectify it. Thanks again!
@@Thedestressguy Ah I see. No I do not have that issue. However, I made the runners a bit "taller" by putting plastic strips. I used a "for sale" sign from Home Depot and cut it into strips. double stick tape along the runners and it "fit" better for me. Maybe that's why I don't have the issue as the runner is in contact with the miter slot's bottom and thus no bumping up when the fence comes in contact with the saw table.
@@hansangb OK- thanks for the clarification. I'll try a few different things to see if I can clear up this challenge.
Thanks for the video. I’ll be trying this when I get a chance. I’m getting into woodworking and recently bought a dewalt job site saw and also noticed how the miter gauge was a little wobbly. I didn’t think it was a big deal until I made some angled cuts and realized they don’t line up. I was making the legs of a stool so I’m realizing your fix should give me the accuracy I need... that and a incra miter gauge.
It certainly will help you. But do keep in mind that the blade needs to be at 90 deg from the table top. So get a machinist square to make sure the blade is orthogonal to the table. Finally, make sure the blade is parallel to the miter/fence. There are any number of videos that walk you through tuning up table saws. You don't need dial indicators to do this. A simple metal ruler works just as well. Good luck!
@@hansangb thank you for the tip. I can’t wait to start making things.
3M manufacture a UHMWPE adhesive tape ( ultra high molecular weight polyethylene), applied to the bottom of the guide as many layers as you require to get the desired thickness, this works extremely well improving the smooth operation of the guide. I still have the bumps and lumps in the channel of my dewalt saw so will try your sandpaper method to see if I can solve the final piece of the puzzle. ps the UHMW tape is hard to find (in Australia) but it is out there.
Noel, thanks for the tip! I think you'll find the sanding a quick and easy fix!
I could not get that fancy tape, but found Scotch Magic Tape works. Used it on the mitre gauge that came with the saw to make it fit snugly and slide smoothly.
Hey Airborne! Nice presentation. My DeWalt is the DW745, smaller than yours. In addition to the uneven surface, I also found width of the miter slots varied. Also, even after getting the Incra V27 miter gauge dialed in fairly well, it would get loose and sloppy when the first adjustment washers emerged from the rear of the miter slot. In contrast, the miter slots on my old 1983 Craftsman table saw were machined into the cast iron, and the miter gauge fits perfectly! I do like the rack and pinion system for the fence on DeWalt table saws, but this is just one example of the issues encountered. The first unit was so bad DeWalt simply replaced it. The second unit has also had a number of issues, but not quite as bad. Glad to hear you were able to resolve your issues. Airborne, all the way! Stay well.
All The Way! :) Yes, I wish my saw had a nice cast iron top so I can use the mag switches. They look awesome. But I guess when you have to weigh - well, the weight - for portability, you have to cut some corners. And after watching AvE for a while, I've been trained to look for molds that may be on its last leg.
Thank you for you clip and tips I'm to buy the Incra Miter.
Enjoy it. I think you'll like it 😁. And thanks for the kind words
So, having posted on this video a couple times. I just finished the assembly of the saw table for my 7491.
I built the table using a borrowed 745 and today I set to work dialing in the saw blade and fence.
Took a while but I got the fence and blade parallel to with .005 inches. Which I think is respectable for a job site saw.
I have to ask, has anyone else had trouble with this Saw's fence being really out of true with the table top?
Checking with my right angles showed it wasnt remotely square and I in fact noticed it by visual inspection even before that!
I was able to trace the problem to the fence design, those long plastic hook arms. Shiming with painters tape solved the problem nicely. But it was pretty egregious.
.005! that's more than respectable. I am going to dig into the fence a bit later.
ua-cam.com/video/hb19XokjIPU/v-deo.html If you have a DWE7491RS this link might interest you. Check it out!
Awesome! I'm so happy I found your video. I too have a very small workshop so I purchased a Dewalt DWE7485 saw to save space. Thanks again for taking the time to post this information!
Thanks. I think you'll enjoy the saw and the the Incra miter.
I have the exact same setup, i hope it works out for me as it did for you. I just recieved my incra miter gauge, so im hoping to mess with it soon. But your video is alot of help. Thank you.
And if you have any questions, do let me know! And I think you're going to enjoy it! :)
This was invaluable. Thank you sooooo much!!!
You're very welcome! Glad it helped
Nice work. Patience paid off. Any thoughts on leveling the bed itself?
I didn't have an issue with the bed. But if you took your time, and used a long level, I'm sure you'd be able to knock off the peaks. Sort of like planing a crowned 2x4 in the wall.
I'll be getting one of these saws soon and found this information very useful thanks
Thank you and enjoy your saw.
just found this...great tip! Thanks for sharing
Thank you. Hope it works out for you
I love that you used an Airborne Joke. The video was great. But that part made it for me.
With my knees in the breeze! :)
Just bought this saw and ordered the incra aswell. If I have this issue I know how to fix it thanks to you. I was wondering if you know how to square the fence to the table top. I already aligned the fence with the saw blade but when I butted my square against the fence I noticed its not quite 90 degrees. I have looked in the manual and searched online but I am unable to get any information. You seem very knowledgeable about this saw so I figured I would ask thanks.
Katrine, let me post my "Kregg featherboard modification" for this tablesaw first. And I'll add your question to the list as well. Thanks!
Thanks Hansang! I look forward to your next videos
LOL 4th point of contact. Ahh memories.
I'm going to have to reference back to this video when I recalibrate my miter gauge in a few weeks. I noticed the exact same problems with mine and never got it fully dialed in. Have you seen Izzy Swan's infeed and outfeed supports for these saws?
Yes, love Izzy's stuff. Although I cover the SawStop that he has too 😁 One of these days...one of these days when I can find some more room.
@@hansangb Checkout Laguna as well, they're offerings look pretty solid and are ~1/2 the cost of the SawStop. Obviously lacking the safety features, but if a cabinet saw is what you want they're worth a look as a middle ground between Grizzley/ShopFox and Sawstop. Shop Nation has a video on his.
Thank you for producing such a useful and thoughtful video. But I have a question about your using a sanding block to buff out irregularities in the miter slot. (The bottom of the slot on my DEW7491RS has some amazingly large and long such irregularities. It's a shame that DeWalt doesn't buff out the irregularities issue during manufacturing.)
It is unclear to me from watching the video exactly what width of block you used for this. Was it a full-wide 3/4" block or did you use a narrower block width such as 1/2" or 5/8" to avoid accidentally widening the slot itself as you sanded? Did you consider or try spray attaching the sandpaper to only the bottom of the sanding block to avoid my concern of possibly widening the slot?
Thanks!
Thank you, I appreciate it. I'm pretty sure I used 3/4" plywood (so really 23/32") Also, you can use 1/2" plywood with no issues. My slot was a little wider than 3/4" so I it didn't widen the slot. Also, I wasn't really sanding both sides at the same time, I took it one side at a time. It doesn't take much at all to sand off the nibs. So take your time and try out the mitersled for fit.
Any chance you’d go over tuning your saw? Really like your style.
I appreciate that Craig. But there are quite few GREAT videos on calibrating DeWalt saws. Here's one from Tamar ua-cam.com/video/bVWk6D0UBhU/v-deo.html And there are others from StumpyNubs. BTW, you don't have to use a dial indicator. You can use a metal ruler (but I'd advise against using a tape ruler) The ruler markings don't have to start on the edge either. So long as it's consistent from front to back, you're good to go. Of course, having a dial indicator makes it easier.
@@hansangb no problem. I do have the basics (fence and blade to miter gauge) done, but was really curious if you had any other details on things you do for this saw. Appreciate the response!
I came to your site to watch some wireshark videos and then got this bonus video. I have the same Job Site saw you have and have worried about the accuracy and you just lead me down the right road. Do you have any tips on how to make sure your fence stays straight?
Ah, the saw/motor/blade assembly (trunnion) is adjustable. In fact, 3x3 Creations (Tamar) had a great video on how to adjust it. And I never had a problem with the fence. It's actually rack-n-pinion so it moves in sync/parallel quite well. I never had to adjust it, but I don't recall if it had a way of adjusting it. I let someone borrow it, so I don't have it on hand to go check it out.
This is what I was looking for. Like you say it’s a jobsite saw. It’s an awesome saw, just not accurate with the provided mitre gage. I’ll look at getting the Incra setup.
I think you'll really like the Incra product. I love mine!
Hello Hansang,
Great video, please make more on precision woodworking if you can. Do you own any other Incra products? Your efforts are appreciated.
I appreciate it. I have other small tools from Incra (but not miters/router jigs) I'll post the video on Kreg featherboard mod for this DeWalt tablesaw (hopefully) soon
Very helpful video, exactly what I was looking for - thank you!
Thanks Eddy. It's easy to do, and works well
Nice detailed explanation thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great Video. Keep up the woodworking tip videos!!
Kregg Featherboard modification for this saw coming next.
at least your saw has the t track, so much better!
I think for tablesaws, it's OK to have a regular slot vs t slot. But I would agree it's better to have one than not. I just modified a Kregg featherboard and that does require a T track to work properly. Video going up soon.
Good job on the video, You're a well spoken man and speak slower and clearer than most on here, which this old man appreciates.
I just accepted delivery of this saw and was aware of this problem before I bought it. Has Incra (sp) fixed this so I don't have to go through Tech support?
The real fix is on the DeWalt side. I can't even really call it a "fix" since it's within operating tolerance for a jobsite saw. If the plastic/ring inserts aren't large enough, give support a call and they'll ship you the slightly bigger ones. And thanks for the compliment!
@@hansangb Yes you are right. I reread my comment and didn’t mean to put you in the middle, just was wondering if you knew. I did a lot of research and knew what I was buying and the drawbacks. Hope you do a few more wood working videos, you have the knack to explain things.
Cheers from Arizona!
Came here for the dewalt , and now going to watch your wife shark video. I have some intermittent jumbos from a external data feed I need to track down
Another woodworking packethead! Good luck with your troubleshooting!
Put a buffing wheel on your Dremel and get a metal polishing stick and load it up. Buff the sides of the slot to a super smooth finish. Next take some Johnson paste wax, the real wax not the synthetic stuff and apply it to the slot and even the table top. It will be totally worth it. You may have to readjust the thing again but not much.
I thought about that. But I was worried that I would create my own peaks and valleys. And it only took a few swipes with a known flat piece of plywood + sandpaper
@@hansangb I've buffed a lot of aluminum and it doesn't remove enough material to create any irregularities. Run the tool at a lower RPM and keep it moving.
Thank you very much for posting this video. It was a great help.
You're quite welcome!
Really good explanation and video thank you
Appreciate it!
Thank you! Thanks for your service.
Considering the Korean war, it really was the *least* I could do.
So I'm a little late to the party but agree this was truly helpful video. One question I have regarding the same set up with table saw and miter (and I'm fairly new to woodworking so maybe this is not a real problem). Are you limited to board widths that keep the incra on the tabletop itself? That is, anything width that makes the gauge jutt beyond the table edge will make require some wrist acrobatics to prevent from catching (I have invested in the incra sled but not set up yet)? It is a heavy enough gauge. Mine (after a sacrificial fence in front) even tips a little to the side but I'm hoping after tightening properly I'll likely be fine
Yes, the fence is too back-heavy so it's very hard to keep the fence level. It'll start rocking back and forth. You can use your sled to maker safe cross cuts, though. And the two things I always do before cutting is to, one: mentally go through what's going to happen (sometimes with larger pieces I do dry run w/ the blade all the way down) and two: make note of what push block action I need to keep my hands away from the blade to make an accurate and safe cuts. When you're cutting, you really want to be looking at the fence to make sure the wood is square to the fence. It just takes one second of lapse in judgement to have a life changing accident. And thanks for watching!
How did you get the miter square to the blade? No matter how much I tweak the fence it is not cutting square. Ugh!
Are you sure your blade is square? Otherwise, you'll be chasing your tail. Have a look at Tamar's 3x3 Custom youtube channel. She has a great video on moving the entire assembly to make sure the blade is square to the miter. Sorry for the late reply. For some reason, it was flagged as needing review.
Appreciate your hard work !
Thank you Leigh!
Fantastic video! I just bought the 1000SE yesterday and am going to install it on my Dewalt 7491. My question is.... Do you lightly sand just the one wall of the miter slot or both walls? In your video, it looks like your sanding just the left hand wall of that slot, where your marks are.
thanks, yeah just the left side of the miter where the marks were. But when you wet your finger and run it down the track, you'll feel the bumps. My guess is that there are quite a few molds they use and different saws will have different peaks and valleys.
Wouldn't it be better to put something (like low friction tape) on the bottom of the gauge itself instead of putting something on the bottom of the rail? That way the gauge is riding on the table which is presumably flat the same way a sled would, rather than the rail riding on the bottom of the track, which I assume you can't guarantee is flat?
EDIT: I guess that might affect the rotation. There might be enough room for very thin tape but there might not be. The tape might work on the bottom of the fence.
EDIT 2: Here's what I found with my saw: Got the bar to fit great without any sanding. I ended up putting UHMW tape (low-friction tape, 10 mil) on the bottom of the protractor and it did not impede the rotation. I tested it first by putting it only where a 45 degree angle wouldn't encounter it, then rotated it past that and found it didn't bind the protractor at all so I put it on all of it. I also put it on the bottom of the fence but I noticed the rotating protractor does bind there so I only put it up to 45 degrees which is probably the biggest angle I'll use this for.
I noticed the bar rides up on me at 90 degrees. In other words if I have the gauge totally on the table, I can press down on the bar near the protractor and it bobs up and down. If the gauge is at 45, this doesn't happen, probably because more of the gauge is covering the bar? Or maybe because the weight distribution of the gauge is different, I don't know.
I'm trying to cut a dado in a wide (15 inch) piece of plywood but you have to start with too much of the gauge off the table to be safe. I just bought an adjustable stand (Bora Portamate PM-5093) that can be used as either a roller or stationery stand so I'll use that as a platform to start the gauge on at the same height.
Yes, I was afraid of the rotation of the miter. But there's probably a little room there to do what you suggested. The other consideration was going straight back and forth (from the tape's perspective) vs going at an angle and being subjected to the rotation. But there's really no friction to worry about so we both may be over thinking it.
@@hansangb I don't understand why they made the bottom of the protractor that way. It's very rough like it's meant to grip when it should be made to slide easily. I think I might try to sand and wax the protractor bottom instead. I can't think of any reason why I would want that to be so rough that it scratches the table.
Awesome video, thanks!
Thank you. Glad it helped!
have you purchased the sled? i'm thinking about getting both but i want to get some input as i have the dwe7591 as well- thanks for the informative video.
You're quite welcome. Are you talking about the Incra sled? I think I mentioned I had the (sled) runners from Microjig, is that what you mean? I haven't yet, but I'm actually getting close to making a basic sled using those runners.
@@hansangb yes i was referring to incra miter express sled, i believe its called...if you have used that?
@@michaelbaykara2322 Michael, no, I haven't used that one. But with the fix addressed in this video, I don't think you'll have any issues with their sled.
@@hansangb ok thanks for your input Hansang, i actually ordered it today.
Excellent. Thank you
You're quite welcome! It's a joy to use after the Dewalt modification.
Excellent presentation--clear and informative. Hansang, I hear you praise the Incra 1000SE, used with the Dewalt jobsite saw, and then I hear you caution that this miter gauge might be back heavy and causes you to be very careful about maintaining the right pressure to keep it flat on the table saw. Is the Incra 1000SE overkill (and almost too big) for this Dewalt jobsite saw? I''ve got the same table saw and have been debating what miter gauge I should buy to replace the pityful one that came with the saw. Did you consider other miter gauges and if so, which ones, and what made you decide on the 1000SE?
TY! The back heavy part can be solved with an extension if you'd like. But in every day use, I find that it's really not that big of an issue. The cuts are shallow enough that the miter is fully seated on the tablesaw. If things get dicey, I'll just make a sled. But this miter has allowed me to put that off. I chose this miter gauge because of the fine angle control. It's very easy to dial it in. I like the stop as well. Although you can set two stops by flipping one or the other, I prefer to use it as one stop. It makes it more rigid so I don't have to worry about it flexing. So the question is, would I buy this again? Yes I would. Also, the support was fantastic when I emailed about the issue. Good luck on which ever route you take.
Hey Hansang, fantastic video! I had the same problem and this worked like a charm, but now I'm having issues making accurate angled cuts. I've tried every which way to dial in the gauge so it's square, but nothing seems to work. Curious if you have any advice? I'm beginning to suspect it has something to do with the miter slot being out of alignment with my blade.
Glad it helped. What I'm thinking is that your blade is not parallel to the miter slot. You can check a number of ways using metal rulers or dial gauge if you happen to have one. Do a google search on "3X3 How to Align your Table Saw Blade" (or any other ones) and you'll get an idea of what's involved. You have to be a little patient dialing it in, but it's well worth it (and not hard to do). Hope that helps
They really need to improve on that miter slot...but thanks for that video.
That would be ideal, but given that it's a job site saw, it's probably accurate enough. I do like how rock steady it is after a little sanding though.
@@hansangb
@john rhodes
Really, how hard should it be for a giant tool company to mill a precise miter slot even on a jobsite saw?!
And that included miter gauge is just atrocious...again, even for a jobsite saw. It's actually dangerous and a safety issue IMO.
Sure, I still love my 7491RS, but it shows the lack of DeWalt's dedication and attention to true quality.
The 7491RS isn't exactly an inexpensive saw and it's not considered a "budget" saw IMO, but it definitely has "budget-grade" miter slots and miter bar/guages! SMH
I have the same INCRA miter guage and it is excellent, but your tips here make it even better! Thanks!
FYI, there is an Extremely Nice copy of the INCRA miter gauge available on the www.banggood.com website! The fence is decent as well.
Also, invest in the Zero-Clearance Insert Plate or DIY one for your saw. :)
For a DIY Zero-Clearance Insert Plate, drill a 3/8" hole centered about 3/16" forward and centered left-to-right in front of the blade.
And also drill a row of smaller 1/4" holes along the LEFT side of the blade (centered between the blade and the Left edge of the insert plate).
Under the insert plate along the left side you will see a narrow aluminum "shelf" that is part of the blade housing and trunion. Drill your holes in the insert just to the right of this aluminum strip so that the airflow has an unobstructed path down into the blade housing.
Lightly chamfer or round-over the holes in the insert plate. Putting holes along the Right side of the blade offer no advantage for dust collection. And IME the holes on the Left side of the blade only need to run from the center of the arbor/shaft and forward.
The holes in the insert plate help to create a better down-draft for improved dust collection. Watch Dennis' "Best Zero Clearance Insert Plate" video on his *Hooked On Wood* UA-cam channel.
Unfortunately, there are WAY too many air gaps and openings in the "enclosed blade box" and trunion underneath the DeWalt DWE-7491RS table saws, and this severely reduces the effectiveness of the dust collection. And these gaps are not easy to seal because of the design of the height & tilt mechanism or trunion. :(
But try to at least seal the gap underneath the saw at the Front of the Blade Box with an appropriately cut block of soft, squishy, open cell foam that will easily expand and contract because it will get compressed when you angle the blade for bevel cuts.
The saw blade on the 7491 spits A LOT of dust forward through this large forward opening that is just under the table surface.
Also try to seal the long, narrow slot or gap between the underside of the table and the flexible fabric blade box liner which runs along the top right side of the blade with some open cell foam. 1/2" thick and 3/4" to 1" wide rubberized self-adhesive weatherstripping works well for this.
You could leave a bit of the forward section open to help guide the extraction airflow from the front of the blade down & towards the rear dust port connection.
I also modified a large aluminum cookie/baking sheet (cut with a jigsaw) to fit under the saw horizontally between the rolling base and the main chassis of the saw in order to catch the remaining sawdust that isn't captured by the vacuum via the rear port.
When combined, all of these mods help to collect much more of the sawdust that is otherwise scattered everywhere in your shop or in your client's home or yard.
Great explanation!
Thank you Robert.
Do you have any problem when you have the fence set up off to one side of the blade? I have a similar setup (Milwaukee instead of dewalt) and I find when I have the fence set up I can’t make crosscuts longer than 4 1/2” because the fence needs to stay on the (relatively shallow) table. Does anyone else run into that? Not sure if there’s a solution but a consideration for anyone else with a smaller saw that’s looking at this.
I thought you were talking about the tablesaw fence at first. What Kasen is talking about is the width of the board being crosscut. So the distance between the blade teeth to the Incra fence. I don't recall exactly what the distance is. Of course, it depends on the height of the blade as well. I have backed out the fence off the table but I had to make sure two of the "donuts" were in the miter slot to maintain square. If you have to cut wider boards, tablesled is probably your best option (other than a bigger saw). Of course, if you could build an infeed table or temporarily make one using sawhorse/tables and scrap wood. But at that point, why not make a table sled.
@@hansangb seriously a great point! Realized there’s really not much of a need for thicker cutting in most of the projects I work on!
I have this same saw and need to know the size of the open end and also the boxed end blade wrenches any help would be greatly appreciated.
Are you looking for the wrench size? (for blade change)
@@hansangb yes that’s what need.
Thanks for responding
@@conway5901 It's 7/8th. Remember though, that you can't just use a crescent wrench, you have to use a slim wrench on the "inside". Have a look at bicycle wrenches, they tend to be slim. Just make sure the length of the wrench is long enough. Replacement wrenches are like $15.
Hi, I have the same Dewalt table saw. I recently bought the 18" aluminum miter slider bars so I can make a jig. Took the allen wrench, and adjusted counter-clockwise, and nothing (still a lot of play, and no adjustments to make any change). Wondering if these Incra bars will work. Have you tried these? Would it be better to use the SE steel sliders? Thanks.
I haven't used the Incra SE sliders. But I have to think it's the same washers, it sure looks the same. But you have to make *sure* the slot of the washer is in the right position (shown in my video). Also, if you contact support, they will give you a different set of washers that will spread out more. But yes, the 1000SE miter bar works perfectly on the saw.
@@hansangb thanks, I will reach out to incra, and keep your tips in mind. Appreciate your fast response.
Hello.
Can you enable multilanguage translation?
I am writing to you from Spain and unfortunately I have a very low level of English.
His video is very very interesting and surely more people like me would like to be able to understand everything he says well.
Many thanks!!!
Fernando, I think I enabled CC and added Spanish. Let's give it a day to see if it kicks in. If it doesn't I'll check it out to see what I might have missed.
@@hansangb Thank you very much for your attention.
At the moment, it still cannot be translated into Spanish texts.
I see that the subtitles box already appears, but when I click on it, it says that subtitles are not enabled.
Anyway, I am very grateful to you for such a good intention.
All the best.
Fernando Martinez
I had to upload a new video. The current video won't do it for some reason. Here's the same video but with captions (I tested Spanish and it seems to work) ua-cam.com/video/dX1o85OxI1k/v-deo.html
Very helpful video 📹
Thanks!
Nice modification. Does the Incra adjustment work for the other slot also?
Other slot like on a different saw? I don't see why not, it's a normal T-slot. If you the other miter slot, then no because Incra miters only come with one t track.
@@hansangb no. Does your adjusted Incra fit okay in the other slot on your table saw with the same adjustment made for the left slot in your video?
@@Peter-976 Oh. Gotcha. Honestly, I never needed to use the Incra on the right side miter so I never got to it. I was saving it to fit the MicroJig adjustable miter bar for my tablesaw sled. But again, Incra does such a good job that the sled has been put on the back burner. But it's the exact same problem with same dimensions as the left bar. I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work. FYI, I did feel the same ridges/bumps on the right miter slot. So it does have the same problem.
@@hansangb Thanks for replying
Great video, thanks for sharing.
You betcha! My pleasure
Does the double sided tape & plastic make the miter bar sit above the table top? I tried this and my bar was above. Maybe my tape was thicker.
No, mine sits flat against the table. The tape I used was (Amazon part/ASIN) B000QDL9GK. But I'm sure the plastic would have some variability.
Thank you, I will try different tape.
My solution with my mitre on the DeWalt job saw was to throw it away the and make some sleds.
That works too. But don't forget that the slot needs a little TLC as well
please can you tell me why big flash and sparks coming out from the motor when i press the red button to stop??i bought the machine today brand new..ty
I'm pretty sure it's the braking built into the tablesaw. My guess is that when you turn off the saw, the blade slows down rather quickly? You can confirm with DeWalt, but braking is probably the cause of it and not anything to be worried about.
@@hansangb thank you!
Great detailed walk-through. I'm thinking of investing in this table saw setup. Question though...would you buy this rig again, knowing what you know now. If not, then what other contenders would you have? Thanks again, Clive
Thanks for the kind feedback. Things I like: This saw comes with dual dust collection capability. The safety guard/shroud has a dust port on it as does the bottom of the saw. Even when you don't use the guard/shroud, it does a great job of dust collection. The extension of the legs is easy. You can use your feet so you don't have to bend down for the "lower" legs. Basically, you pull up on two legs, and push down on two legs to deploy the saw. Again, not critical but when you have fold it and unfold it due to space limitations it quickly rises to the top of the list. I like the large off button that you can hit with your body. I think the width of maximum cut is about the same as most saws in this class. The ease of arbor access is about the same, I think. One additional note, the bolts to align the blade (to square it up at 90 deg) is easily accessible. I haven't had to adjust it (I did it just to try it) but being that it's meant to be dragged around a job site, I can see why it's important to have easy access. I take care of it like it's a baby so I don't have that problem! :) Finally, as a reference, I have a 2.5HP Armor All vacuum and a Dust Deputy connected to it. And it does a good job of collecting the dust. I only use the bottom port because I don't know if 2.5HP vacuum can use a Y adapter, but if you have a more powerful vacuum, the top and bottom dust collection should be great. It's already good enough for me to use in a garage with the bottom port.
Hansang Bae Thanks for detailed info. I decided to get one but then no luck finding anywhere in the UK that has one in stock or any idea of a delivery date. Oh well, I’ll just have to wait I guess!!
@@clivebarrell6448 Good luck! I think you'll find that it's worth it. Maybe they have a new model coming out?
is the t track replaceable in the original dewalt miter guage ? if so can it be replaced with an adjustable T track of ebay for a $20 or so ?
The problem isn't the track in the miter gauge. The miter slot has peaks and valleys which prevents tight engagement. So getting a new track for the gauge won't help at all.
@@hansangb i reckon mine has slot imperfections too .. Thanks for your time
@@moldprintsrl imagine the injection mold is getting long in the tooth. Again, fine for jobsite saw, but for those of using it for woodworking, it's a simple enough of a fix.
Working great
Glad to hear it!
Nice Airborne!
All The Way! Thanks!