In Canada I believe foam type insulation (expand or extruded polystyrene) is not permitted to be exposed in residential construction. These products are to be covered with another material such as drywall, metal cladding, etc. I suggest others interested in this great idea check with local building authorities to ensure compliance. In Canada most garages have insulated garage doors.
Wanted to thank you Dave, especially as I had just watched another video where the guy used glue, you changed my mind. I have a 10x8 golf cart garage and I decided to insulate it. Bought sheets of 1"foam with foil and cut and installed between the 2x4s. Then decided to do the door, it gets the sun in the afternoon, 110 daily here in Arizona and my doors are really hot. After watching your video I decided I could give it a go, so I measured and cut pieces with the razor blade, loved your cutter better, but got it done with a few trims and determination to get each piece in with the guidance you provided. Such a difference, had thought you would install the foam with the foil side closest to the door but no it is cooler with the foil side inside the garage. Again thanks for helping a Kiwi living in the USA, 69 and I did it myself. Cheers
Somehow I only just found out about this today. I am building a new house... so this is going to be one of the first things I do as the morning and lunchtime sun comes straight in that door. Makes it really pop out as well.. love it! Bonus is I live around the corner from these guys in Perth... so very handy.
Did the same thing in my garage last year. I used the standard big box store standard pink 4' x 10' insulation panels cut to size with my Ts55 as well. Works really good at keeping the heat or cold out. its amazing how well this works.
Hi Dave, Rolf Harris popularised the wobble board with his famous song, “Tie me kangaroo down”. Nice work insulating your door. I insulated my shed with sound dampening batts in the walls and sisalation 5cm below the roof. On a hot day recently the outside temperature was 38˚C and inside was a cool 26˚C. That was cooler than my house. Cheers.
The difference in relation to comfort inside the garage is very noticeable after I fitted the insulation, both in terms of temperature and also sound deadening. Very happy with the result!
This was done in a lot of places in Los Vegas too. The hardest part was locating the foam. I used a hot wire cutter, just because I had one! The pink/blue foam is denser then the white. More money but it works a bit better. Foam is also a good insulator in the walls of a garage.
Excellent video Dave. It's blows my mind how few Australians homes lack insulation in the walls and roof of their garage. And the ones that do have this great big uninsulated, steel garage door bleeding heat out of the home in winter and worse, creating a furnace in the garage in summer.
Houses too. Wife and I had a house built in Canberra mid 70s. Before plumbed gas, we had a big bottle filled regularly by Esso. One year we had foam pumped into the walls. Gas consumption dropped from a weekly fill to an annual fill. The driver thought we'd converted to electric heating.
I used a product here in Australia called FoilBoard. Foam with foil on both sides. I had some left over from insulating my workshop ceiling and walls so I did the old mans garage door. Works a treat. It reflects the radiant heat back out.
This is fantastic, I had the privilege of meeting david today and he was as nice in person at his place of work as he is in his videos. I am in the garage door business myself and love this idea. Keep it up mate 👍
I was just researching underfloor foam insulation for my wooden floor, retro fit. Found a great place here in Melb that sells it. And then your video popped up. Same thing but on your door. Great idea. The amount of extra reflected light is an unexpected bonus. A win win I reckon.
Thanks, David! Greetings from the Houston, TX region. Very timely info. I've just yesterday redone the entire heating and a/c system for my house, the entire lot, and ran ducting to/from the garage as its own zone. Just as the notification of your video popped up, I was looking at garage door and ceiling insulation info on the web!! Great info!! I think you convinced me on what I will use for my garage door. All the Best!
Hi Butch, I'm from Houston as well! These 105+ temps feeling like the bowls of hell have been EXCRUCIATING!! I'm actually picking up my boards today and hopefully will have as much success soon! :) I'm curious - despite having TONS of the cottony type insulation, I was also considering the foam boards and/or other like styles for my attic to help alleviate the collected heat so my a/c(s) aren't having to work as hard. Do you happen to have any tips of what works best?
Yes these recent temps are a killer! No tips I am certain of. But based on my research and talking to a home builder friend if mine, I will be putting R30 batts above the garage and probably blowing in cellulose on the side walls behind the existing sheet rock. This retrofitting in the attic heat is a killer, but that is what happens with uninsulated garages being modded. Good luck with your project!
We did something similar at my parent's house in northern England in ~1990 which needed no maintenance until 2015 when we sold the house. It completely changed the character of the garage - which also had the boiler, washer, drier, laundry sink, and small work bench in it. The temperature range decreased from stupid-hot/literally-freezing-cold to bit warm / little chilly. Our method was very similar: We covered the polystyrene sheets - 22mm - and covered the face with _bubble wrap_ to hold it in place with a couple of thin wood battens with the odd piece of hardboard; no glue. Oh - it was an 'up and over garage door not panelled as here so there weren't many gaps between the panels.
Super great to see someone in Australia doing this! I've been thinking of doing it for a while, and I live in Perth. Will check them out. But one of the things I've seen in US doors is that they put a sheet of non-expanded styrene sheeting on the front - some people use it as a whiteboard, but in a workshop, it stops dust from collecting in the rough surface
Thanks! Our last garage door in Florida was insulated. Current garage is not. It makes a big difference. Here trying to sort out how to insulate our garage at our new house. Once you have it it's hard to go back.
omg. i love this video. i love how happy and easy going you are. I started this project yesterday (I have a musician in the garage and it gets pretty loud). I cut the first one incorrectly--I thought I could maneuver the panels better so they would fit in snugly--but now I guess I just need to cut them smaller. Either way, you have super positive vibes and that actually got me excited to tackle this again! I'm in Cali so I hope this helps with the heat in the summer time!! plus it looks cool.
Howdy Dave! Nice job. I live in Wyoming where it gets a little chilly so I did my shop door last year. It makes a great difference. You probably don't have a Menards down under but if you did you could probably get a kit that pretty much fits the size door you order for. What I have has a shiny tinfoil side that helps reflect the warmth back at you. Enjoy! you'll like it! Take care, Dave
thanks mate. been looking at insulating the door. garage heats up so much with arvo sun. i keep aquariums in mine and the water temp gets so high in summer...... and this looks the easiest and cheapest way to do
I'm glad you found this helpful! Insulating the door is a great way to keep your garage cooler and protect your aquariums. Best of luck with your project!
Great job Dave. I did this to the panel lift door in my old place using fibreglass insulation and covered it in plastic to keep the fibres contained. One of the things to note if you haven't already is the added weight in the door affects the motors ability to lift the door. It took a while to actually make a difference, but it was an easy fix just had to adjust the mechanism to give it more. I have a tilt door now and just insulated it with the foil faced bubble wrap, makes a huge difference
The door will need re-balancing to adjust for the added weight. It is easy to do. I bought 2 steel threaded rods from Bunnings and ground the ends for a close fit to the spring retainer holes. I usually use the second rod in another hole for safety in case the first rod slips out under tension - hasn't happened yet - fingers crossed. You will need to increase the spring tension on each spring. Do this with the door closed. Insert rods, take up the tension, undo the set screw, rotate the retainer a notch or two, retighten the screw, remove the rod. Do this for each spring. Quite often older doors need this done anyway as springs lose their tension over time. The aim is for the door to be balanced so the motor isn't working too hard. After I watched a serviceman do this it was straightforward. Just be careful with the rods. Take your time.
Dave, I live in the Dallas / Fort Worth, Texas, area and I did the same thing to my garage door. I also covered the garage door with Reflectix Reflective Roll Insulation and fastened it with double stick carpet tape to the foam Insulation and the panel metal edges. It does make the garage a better light reflector, is a thermal break over the exposed metal parts of the door, and it can act as a barrier to Thermal Radiation. A year later and it's still looking good.
@@Me.Cruz123 we have had it insulated for two summers now. The difference is massive. Because our carport is next to our living room the heat stress is way down it is noticeable in our cooling costs over summer.
Great job brother. I'm looking to do the same as well. Living here in the states on the east coast, we feel the intensity of the hot & cold temperatures in the garage. Thank you for sharing.
I have put up insulation like that, but in the middle of the panel I stuck my foam gun through the foam, and squirted some sprayfoam behind it into the hollow parts of the door. It stop movement , stop rattles and dampens sound even better than the foam alone I think on your door I might stick some spray foam down the edges as well.. BUT it is cold I am trying to stop. It is cold here in winter and the garage leaks warmth like a sieve .
Good video Dave I’ve been pushing this idea to clients, I live in Canberra. You also need to seal the sides. Insulated doors are available in Oz but cost around three times the price I would recommend extruded polystyrene higher R value and stronger. Cheers
Expanded polystyrene 30mm would have a R value of 0.71 Extruded polystyrene has an R value of 1.0 for 30mm. Its also stronger for bumps and knocks. However also something to note I will point out than the manufacturers will void the warranty once this is done; had a client do it to a new door and did not remove it for the warranty claim, bummer. You could also put foil back boards or sarking which will help with reducing heat transfer.
Hi hear you Dave; I have no concerns, that's why I tell clients to do it, but just to let the punters know. Depending on EPS grade it would be around 17kg per cubic metre.
A point (we did the same as you in 1990- never regretted it!): you have just made the entire door super flammable that will produce terrible fumes (yes, so car with all the petrol/gasoline in it right next to it.....but that doesn't have highly flammable skin) in a fire. Despite this risk we survived and were happy to take it given the benefits. . Funny to watch this now as I'm just thinking of replacing the garage 'up-and-over' - i.e. one piece - door at my mum's house and was wondering if a couple of polyester duvets soaked in Borax/ Starlite or similar fire proofing is the way to go.
We're just doing this now, and used the same white styrofoam. We actually added 8mm reflective foil insulation on top of the styrofoam and tucked it in around 3 of the 4 sides (one side you can't). The 8mm gets compressed where we tuck it, and perhaps help stop some of the heat/cold coming from the 1/4" gap on the top and bottom of the foam?
It may help slightly because of the gaps after getting the insulation in. I imagine that it would only reduce some of the convection from the sun beating down the outside of the door, and it being transferred to the inside. Even after insulating, the exposed metal on the inside does still get hot, although the "area" of hot surfaces on the inside of the door, are so fractional now, compared to without any insulation where every sq inch of the door was 120F. Another idea I thought of instead of the foil insulation, was just using that corrugated plastic sheets (coroplast?) to give it a nice finished look and protect the foam a bit.
Big box store here (Home Depot ) sells styrofoam cut to width , inch and a quarter in thickness,designed to flex allowing to fit under all framework. All your frames are uninsulated and full of weep holes so you are going to still feel the effects of air transfer. All my garage door panels not only have an inch and a quarter Completely covered but I also bought rolls of foil back /rubberized coating insulation 1/4 inch thick (Cellofoam) fit and tucked in to complete the inch and a half thickness of the panels using the white rubberized completIng the door with minimal-leakage between frames along with a nice textured finish. Note: cost approximately $200.00. All home improvements are only a plus no matter to what degree.
Polystyrene is quite flammable - over here in USA and Canada, NOT approved unless has a fire proof coating on the exposed surface. Applies to ANY foam material. Our insulated garage doors have foam sandwiched between steel panels. (Where I am, winters can get to -38'C and summers +35'C)
Dave, that is great, I like in the glass house mountains in QLD and have seen this stuff advertised on FB. Our house faces east so you can imagine the heat in summer that radiates through!
Hi David, great video. I did this to some very large heavy galvanised slide doors in my workshop and I used some kind of heavy duty liquid nails glue. 10 years have passed now and those panels are stuck on there and are not coming off any time soon. Maybe glue worked for me because the panels I put on are much larger or had a slightly ruff surface on the glue side or the iron doors are thicker galv metal etc... Just wanted to add my 2cents about using glue.
When I had my house built some 25 years ago the builders used construction glue everywhere. Unfortunately over time the glue degrades and becomes brittle. I have had to reattach quite a few trims where only glue was used. My 2 cents
The springs are made for the weight of the door, trying to use the current springs while adding weight will cause the door not to operate correctly. Also, unless you are trained to adjust torsion springs you should never try to adust them yourself, VERY DANGEROUS!
Robert Morris thank you. This is what I was trying to say. The torsion spring are very dangerous to adjust if you don’t know what you are doing. I was talking to a garage repair and he was telling me about the right spring and torsion. I don’t think people understand this.
I know this video has been out for a while but you have to make sure your springs are rated for the added weight of the insulation because those springs are designed for garage doors without insulation.
Adjusting the springs is something you can get done, but the added weight is only 2 kg and my door is used 2 or 3 times a day and I am not seeing any difference in the operation.
Thanks Gus. You may need to retension your door's springs for the little extra weight. I haven't and all working great but some experts recommend it be done.
Hey Dave, just saw this and reckon you must be the man to solve this one. You did a great job on your panel lifts so now tell me how to do my Rolla Doors. If you can do that I'll even pay you. Hmm, nah.
Hey David, nice job. I was just considering this for my garage - no woodworking, that's in the shed, but to cut down on the very strong morning sun. I'm in Perth, too, so this looks like a great option! SuperPhil
You can also use relief cuts and place the cut side toward the door, the recessed edges you csn use insulating spray foam for a better insulative seal, and even on the square "raised" parts of each garage panel. It's a little bit of redundancy, but makes about 4-10 Fahrenheit difference overall.
I am thinking of insulating my garage door. But, foam like yours is not a great thermal insulator. I was thinking if sticking aluminium sheet on the foam would be an improvement. Another problem are gaps on sides of the door.
Hi Dave! That’s a great job, I’ll be doing the same this Easter in SA..I want to check if it caused any issue with the motor for the panel lift due to the addition of weight.. keep it up! Cheers..
Dave, the word you were looking for is "oil canning". When a flat piece of sheet metal flops n pops for lack of rigidity, it's called oil canning. No charge for that. You're welcome.
Hi David, great video. Very informative. Thank you! I have a slight issue. Each of my panels have plastic attachments that connect the upper and lower vertical bars which add about 2.5mm on each side at the top and bottom of each vertical bar. When I'm measuring the width of my panels, should I measure between each plastic attachment which then leaves a small 2.5mm gap elsewhere between the vertical attachments on each side when fitted, OR, should I measure the width from the middle of each vertical bar (not the plastic attachment) and cut the foam myself where the plastic attachments are located on each side, top and bottom? Thanks for any advice you can offer me.
I advise that you get a garage door technician around to re tension the springs after doing this. Do not attempt to do it yourself! The springs have massive tension on them and can be extremely dangerous. If you enjoy my videos please do 4 things for me. 1. Subscribe to my channel and ring the bell. This way you will be notified when I release a new video. 2. Click on the like/thumbs up icon. That lets other people know the video may be of some interest to them. 3. Share the video on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or any other social media you are associated with, there are so many! Or just email a link to your friends. 4.Visit my Patreon site. This helps me to continue creating video content for you to watch as well as you may be privy to behind the scenes gossip and previews! www.patreon.com/davestanton
David Stanton My garage door is one and a quarter inch deep and the insulation foam panels I bought are the same but my problem is the patterns they are one quarter inch thick .. Do you think I’ll be able to fit the panels in even though the patterns are there
Hi dave, how are you.please could you tell me how should I insulate my shed which use as my workshop.so I don't disturb my neighbour from the sound of my power tool.
There are a lot of products on the market to help you do this. Construction method of the shed also comes into play. There is no simple answer. You will need someone to come and look and advise.
Very clean looking job, but you have just changed the balance weight of your door. Doors with a single spring may require a different size spring or additional turns applied to the existing spring (which will shorten spring life).
Hi Dave, I live on the Gold Coast and I have a very dark green door which faces East. In summer it was almost impossible to work in the garage until after midday and even then , with the A/C on. Last year I found a guy on the Sunshine Coast doing garage door insulation. Take a look at Thermadooor.com.au. They offer panels for DIYers that fit like yours after cutting with a Stanley knife. They have a white melamine coating which is very attractive. I had them fit mine for a very reasonable cost. The door did require adjustment as it added weight. The insulation dropped the temperature by more than 10 degrees C. I love it. My wife now wants to kick me and the cars and the tools out, polyester the floor and make it a TV room.
What happens to the fire rating of the door and the amount of Smoke and Flame that will be produced in a fire event? Insulation should have a fire barrier of at least 20 minutes. Exposed insulation does come with some risk.
Question for you David, why not just purchase an insulated door to start? I’m From Canada and that is just standard practice however we have various offerings with from R9 door insulation values to R20’s
If you wished you could have measured and cut the foam width as original , then cut each sheet in the centre vertically and push one sheet into its location ,this then leaves one piece left which you can cut a small vertical cut of at least 5 cm wide ..insert the remaining larger piece into the remaining roller door and push to the edge .you should have both large pieces located inside the roller door with a gap in the middle which now fits the 5cm offcut ..now that entire sheet is locked into both the upper and side channels
Not like Blue Lagoon at all. It's a bit like calling you Staunton. My "garage" is open to west and north east. Overheating in summer is incurable, in winter perhaps I could use an outdoors gas heater from the GREEN Shed. I have a big tin shed out the back, but insulating that would cost an absolute fortune. It's quite nice in winter actually, if there's a bit of sun around.
The only thing I don't like is that the foam is exposed. I would possibly use aluminum flashing and cover the foam, install the same way could probably leave it a but wider than the foam and be able to tuck it in top and bottom.
Looks great mate. Did you do any before and after noise measurements? I'm interested in doing this to keep the neighbours happy but seems like a bit of work and I want to make sure it actually makes a measurable difference. I have pretty much the same door and hold my breath every time I run my CNC or saw (suburban Sydney). As usual, videos very much appreciated. Thanks.
I haven't taken any comparison noise or sound measurements but I can tell you that it makes a difference to me on the inside when it is raining. Can't hear a thing. Also much quieter when the door is opening and closing.
I like the insulation value & the sound deadening must be nice... What did you do to fireproof it? ? I am scared of that so much i might cover it with flat sheet metal, or maybe there's a fireproof paint. Fits great & does the job but i couldn't sleep just left raw
A lot of people use this stuff in between their floor joists under their house. People also have curtains on windows....there are a lot of flammable items we have everywhere in our homes and garages.
In Canada I believe foam type insulation (expand or extruded polystyrene) is not permitted to be exposed in residential construction. These products are to be covered with another material such as drywall, metal cladding, etc. I suggest others interested in this great idea check with local building authorities to ensure compliance. In Canada most garages have insulated garage doors.
Building codes are different everywhere you go. Yours are not like theirs, where ever you may be.
Wanted to thank you Dave, especially as I had just watched another video where the guy used glue, you changed my mind.
I have a 10x8 golf cart garage and I decided to insulate it. Bought sheets of 1"foam with foil and cut and installed between the 2x4s. Then decided to do the door, it gets the sun in the afternoon, 110 daily here in Arizona and my doors are really hot.
After watching your video I decided I could give it a go, so I measured and cut pieces with the razor blade, loved your cutter better, but got it done with a few trims and determination to get each piece in with the guidance you provided. Such a difference, had thought you would install the foam with the foil side closest to the door but no it is cooler with the foil side inside the garage.
Again thanks for helping a Kiwi living in the USA, 69 and I did it myself. Cheers
Thanks Janet munoz! I hope it makes a difference and glad you found it easy enough to do.
Just ordered mine and gave you a big thumbs up in the order. Thanks Dave.
Hope you enjoy it!
Somehow I only just found out about this today. I am building a new house... so this is going to be one of the first things I do as the morning and lunchtime sun comes straight in that door. Makes it really pop out as well.. love it!
Bonus is I live around the corner from these guys in Perth... so very handy.
Sounds like a plan frankmat
Did the same thing in my garage last year. I used the standard big box store standard pink 4' x 10' insulation panels cut to size with my Ts55 as well. Works really good at keeping the heat or cold out. its amazing how well this works.
Thanks for the feedback Warren!
Hi Dave, Rolf Harris popularised the wobble board with his famous song, “Tie me kangaroo down”.
Nice work insulating your door. I insulated my shed with sound dampening batts in the walls and sisalation 5cm below the roof. On a hot day recently the outside temperature was 38˚C and inside was a cool 26˚C. That was cooler than my house. Cheers.
Thanks for the compliment Peter Marsh!
The difference in relation to comfort inside the garage is very noticeable after I fitted the insulation, both in terms of temperature and also sound deadening. Very happy with the result!
The install was very squeaky so I have a question: When the door opens do you hear those squeaks again?
This was done in a lot of places in Los Vegas too. The hardest part was locating the foam. I used a hot wire cutter, just because I had one! The pink/blue foam is denser then the white. More money but it works a bit better.
Foam is also a good insulator in the walls of a garage.
Thanks for sharing
Love the positive energy in this video, thanks! Well spoken too!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Just moving into a rental and this is first on the list so I can use my power tools in the garage. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
That's awesome! Enjoy setting up your new space! Check with the owner first as the extra weight may damage the motor?
even if it's a 6 year OL video still came in very Handy Mister thank You David👍
@ThisOLmaan don't forget to have a service guy retension your springs.
@@DavidStanton :: Thank you for that Tip Dave...Glad UR still Active on UR UA-cam Ch.
Excellent video Dave. It's blows my mind how few Australians homes lack insulation in the walls and roof of their garage. And the ones that do have this great big uninsulated, steel garage door bleeding heat out of the home in winter and worse, creating a furnace in the garage in summer.
Houses too. Wife and I had a house built in Canberra mid 70s. Before plumbed gas, we had a big bottle filled regularly by Esso. One year we had foam pumped into the walls. Gas consumption dropped from a weekly fill to an annual fill. The driver thought we'd converted to electric heating.
I used a product here in Australia called FoilBoard. Foam with foil on both sides. I had some left over from insulating my workshop ceiling and walls so I did the old mans garage door. Works a treat. It reflects the radiant heat back out.
This is fantastic, I had the privilege of meeting david today and he was as nice in person at his place of work as he is in his videos. I am in the garage door business myself and love this idea. Keep it up mate 👍
You're going to make me blush Bill!
I was just researching underfloor foam insulation for my wooden floor, retro fit. Found a great place here in Melb that sells it. And then your video popped up. Same thing but on your door. Great idea. The amount of extra reflected light is an unexpected bonus. A win win I reckon.
E210 Dall hey what what the place in Melb that sells it called
Thanks, David! Greetings from the Houston, TX region. Very timely info. I've just yesterday redone the entire heating and a/c system for my house, the entire lot, and ran ducting to/from the garage as its own zone. Just as the notification of your video popped up, I was looking at garage door and ceiling insulation info on the web!! Great info!! I think you convinced me on what I will use for my garage door. All the Best!
Let me know how it goes for you Butch.
Hi Butch, I'm from Houston as well! These 105+ temps feeling like the bowls of hell have been EXCRUCIATING!! I'm actually picking up my boards today and hopefully will have as much success soon! :) I'm curious - despite having TONS of the cottony type insulation, I was also considering the foam boards and/or other like styles for my attic to help alleviate the collected heat so my a/c(s) aren't having to work as hard. Do you happen to have any tips of what works best?
Yes these recent temps are a killer! No tips I am certain of. But based on my research and talking to a home builder friend if mine, I will be putting R30 batts above the garage and probably blowing in cellulose on the side walls behind the existing sheet rock. This retrofitting in the attic heat is a killer, but that is what happens with uninsulated garages being modded. Good luck with your project!
Gave a like and subbed to the channel. North central Victoria here and some extra insulation will never go astray for the dream home/shed
Thanks!
I've been looking around for insulation options along with installation ideas and you have nailed it. Thank you.
Glad to help
We did something similar at my parent's house in northern England in ~1990 which needed no maintenance until 2015 when we sold the house.
It completely changed the character of the garage - which also had the boiler, washer, drier, laundry sink, and small work bench in it. The temperature range decreased from stupid-hot/literally-freezing-cold to bit warm / little chilly.
Our method was very similar:
We covered the polystyrene sheets - 22mm - and covered the face with _bubble wrap_ to hold it in place with a couple of thin wood battens with the odd piece of hardboard; no glue.
Oh - it was an 'up and over garage door not panelled as here so there weren't many gaps between the panels.
Thanks for that.
Super great to see someone in Australia doing this! I've been thinking of doing it for a while, and I live in Perth. Will check them out. But one of the things I've seen in US doors is that they put a sheet of non-expanded styrene sheeting on the front - some people use it as a whiteboard, but in a workshop, it stops dust from collecting in the rough surface
Thanks for adding to the info theducks.org!
It is the middle of winter here in Perth, and currently 70F (21C) - but you really need this in summer
Nice job. I have the same video on my channel but I layered mine up a little bit to be sure all of the gaps were filled.
Nice work!
@@DavidStanton Thanks. Appreciate it.
Thanks!
Our last garage door in Florida was insulated. Current garage is not. It makes a big difference. Here trying to sort out how to insulate our garage at our new house. Once you have it it's hard to go back.
You can do it!
omg. i love this video. i love how happy and easy going you are. I started this project yesterday (I have a musician in the garage and it gets pretty loud). I cut the first one incorrectly--I thought I could maneuver the panels better so they would fit in snugly--but now I guess I just need to cut them smaller. Either way, you have super positive vibes and that actually got me excited to tackle this again! I'm in Cali so I hope this helps with the heat in the summer time!! plus it looks cool.
Have fun! It is very satisfying to do it yourself and get the benefits. Make sure you get the springs adjusted by a professional when it is finished.
Did the panels help reduce noise in the garage much ?
Exactly what I need to do!! Insulate and sound proof my garage door
Thanks for the compliment Mermaid DIYArtist!
Howdy Dave! Nice job. I live in Wyoming where it gets a little chilly so I did my shop door last year. It makes a great difference. You probably don't have a Menards down under but if you did you could probably get a kit that pretty much fits the size door you order for. What I have has a shiny tinfoil side that helps reflect the warmth back at you. Enjoy! you'll like it!
Take care, Dave
Thanks for that David!
Thanks for the tip on the glue.
No problem!
Wobble board! thanks for video, you have done exactly what I'm in the process of doing! and same panel lift door.
thanks mate. been looking at insulating the door. garage heats up so much with arvo sun. i keep aquariums in mine and the water temp gets so high in summer...... and this looks the easiest and cheapest way to do
I'm glad you found this helpful! Insulating the door is a great way to keep your garage cooler and protect your aquariums. Best of luck with your project!
Great job Dave. I did this to the panel lift door in my old place using fibreglass insulation and covered it in plastic to keep the fibres contained.
One of the things to note if you haven't already is the added weight in the door affects the motors ability to lift the door. It took a while to actually make a difference, but it was an easy fix just had to adjust the mechanism to give it more.
I have a tilt door now and just insulated it with the foil faced bubble wrap, makes a huge difference
So much nicer!
The door will need re-balancing to adjust for the added weight. It is easy to do. I bought 2 steel threaded rods from Bunnings and ground the ends for a close fit to the spring retainer holes. I usually use the second rod in another hole for safety in case the first rod slips out under tension - hasn't happened yet - fingers crossed. You will need to increase the spring tension on each spring. Do this with the door closed. Insert rods, take up the tension, undo the set screw, rotate the retainer a notch or two, retighten the screw, remove the rod. Do this for each spring. Quite often older doors need this done anyway as springs lose their tension over time. The aim is for the door to be balanced so the motor isn't working too hard. After I watched a serviceman do this it was straightforward. Just be careful with the rods. Take your time.
Dave, I live in the Dallas / Fort Worth, Texas, area and I did the same thing to my garage door. I also covered the garage door with Reflectix Reflective Roll Insulation and fastened it with double stick carpet tape to the foam Insulation and the panel metal edges. It does make the garage a better light reflector, is a thermal break over the exposed metal parts of the door, and it can act as a barrier to Thermal Radiation. A year later and it's still looking good.
If you use this link it will help the channel, thanks for the additional info! amzn.to/2lpRPy6
The next time I need it I will use your link. Thank you, for all your videos.
Great video, I'm looking at get some
Go for it!
Thanks for the handy tips, I'm just about to insulate my garage for the summer. it was ridiculous last year.
Does it work good bro? It’s hot hot in the garage
@@Me.Cruz123 we have had it insulated for two summers now. The difference is massive. Because our carport is next to our living room the heat stress is way down it is noticeable in our cooling costs over summer.
Great job brother. I'm looking to do the same as well. Living here in the states on the east coast, we feel the intensity of the hot & cold temperatures in the garage.
Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure Stevie. Just don't use anything in the garage that creates a lot of sparks near the door.
@@DavidStanton.... indeed, thanks for the heads up.
Funnily enough, I lived in Booragoon and have been to Foam Sales before! Thanks for the great tips David. I'll definitely be doing this.
Tell them you saw how to do it here! They will be chuffed.
David Stanton will do!
"Funnily"???🤔🤔🤦🤦🤦
I have put up insulation like that, but in the middle of the panel I stuck my foam gun through the foam, and squirted some sprayfoam behind it into the hollow parts of the door. It stop movement , stop rattles and dampens sound even better than the foam alone I think on your door I might stick some spray foam down the edges as well.. BUT it is cold I am trying to stop. It is cold here in winter and the garage leaks warmth like a sieve .
Graham Dawes, Interesting idea.
Wobble Board!! and great video, thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Good video Dave
I’ve been pushing this idea to clients, I live in Canberra.
You also need to seal the sides.
Insulated doors are available in Oz but cost around three times the price
I would recommend extruded polystyrene higher R value and stronger.
Cheers
How much higher R value pulporock?
Expanded polystyrene 30mm would have a R value of 0.71 Extruded polystyrene has an R value of 1.0 for 30mm. Its also stronger for bumps and knocks.
However also something to note I will point out than the manufacturers will void the warranty once this is done; had a client do it to a new door and did not remove it for the warranty claim, bummer.
You could also put foil back boards or sarking which will help with reducing heat transfer.
My door is 11 years old so I don't think I will be overly concerned about warranty. Also, the weight would be lucky to be an extra 4 kilograms.
Hi hear you Dave; I have no concerns, that's why I tell clients to do it, but just to let the punters know.
Depending on EPS grade it would be around 17kg per cubic metre.
A point (we did the same as you in 1990- never regretted it!): you have just made the entire door super flammable that will produce terrible fumes (yes, so car with all the petrol/gasoline in it right next to it.....but that doesn't have highly flammable skin) in a fire.
Despite this risk we survived and were happy to take it given the benefits.
.
Funny to watch this now as I'm just thinking of replacing the garage 'up-and-over' - i.e. one piece - door at my mum's house and was wondering if a couple of polyester duvets soaked in Borax/ Starlite or similar fire proofing is the way to go.
Good to hear.
We're just doing this now, and used the same white styrofoam. We actually added 8mm reflective foil insulation on top of the styrofoam and tucked it in around 3 of the 4 sides (one side you can't). The 8mm gets compressed where we tuck it, and perhaps help stop some of the heat/cold coming from the 1/4" gap on the top and bottom of the foam?
Do you notice a difference?
It may help slightly because of the gaps after getting the insulation in. I imagine that it would only reduce some of the convection from the sun beating down the outside of the door, and it being transferred to the inside. Even after insulating, the exposed metal on the inside does still get hot, although the "area" of hot surfaces on the inside of the door, are so fractional now, compared to without any insulation where every sq inch of the door was 120F. Another idea I thought of instead of the foil insulation, was just using that corrugated plastic sheets (coroplast?) to give it a nice finished look and protect the foam a bit.
Cool i think i'll try it
Great!
Big box store here (Home Depot ) sells styrofoam cut to width , inch and a quarter in thickness,designed to flex allowing to fit under all framework. All your frames are uninsulated and full of weep holes so you are going to still feel the effects of air transfer. All my garage door panels not only have an inch and a quarter Completely covered but I also bought rolls of foil back /rubberized coating insulation 1/4 inch thick (Cellofoam) fit and tucked in to complete the inch and a half thickness of the panels using the white rubberized completIng the door with minimal-leakage between frames along with a nice textured finish. Note: cost approximately $200.00. All home improvements are only a plus no matter to what degree.
Thanks for the video.
The door will now surely melt... :)
Hi Mik Tara! Maybe?
Looks good
Thanks!
I’ll check it out!
ok
Great job!
Thanks Michael!
Polystyrene is quite flammable - over here in USA and Canada, NOT approved unless has a fire proof coating on the exposed surface. Applies to ANY foam material. Our insulated garage doors have foam sandwiched between steel panels. (Where I am, winters can get to -38'C and summers +35'C)
Hi Paul Moffat! Click the show more button for extra details.
Thumbs up just for the “don’t use glue” tip!
RennKit LLC That's an idea, thanks for watching!
Dave, that is great, I like in the glass house mountains in QLD and have seen this stuff advertised on FB. Our house faces east so you can imagine the heat in summer that radiates through!
Amazing
Hi David, great video. I did this to some very large heavy galvanised slide doors in my workshop and I used some kind of heavy duty liquid nails glue. 10 years have passed now and those panels are stuck on there and are not coming off any time soon. Maybe glue worked for me because the panels I put on are much larger or had a slightly ruff surface on the glue side or the iron doors are thicker galv metal etc... Just wanted to add my 2cents about using glue.
Thanks for the info, you may be correct about the different type of door and you may be correct that the liquid nails will be ok?
When I had my house built some 25 years ago the builders used construction glue everywhere. Unfortunately over time the glue degrades and becomes brittle. I have had to reattach quite a few trims where only glue was used. My 2 cents
What about taking account how much weight you are putting on the garage door and having the right garage spring
You can adjust the springs to help balance the door as best as possible and help keep the cables on the door
The springs are made for the weight of the door, trying to use the current springs while adding weight will cause the door not to operate correctly. Also, unless you are trained to adjust torsion springs you should never try to adust them yourself, VERY DANGEROUS!
Robert Morris thank you. This is what I was trying to say. The torsion spring are very dangerous to adjust if you don’t know what you are doing. I was talking to a garage repair and he was telling me about the right spring and torsion. I don’t think people understand this.
Check the description box where I mention this.
Hi Dave how about fire flammability? Polystyrene can catch on fire!
Yes it can. But consider how many other things people have in their garage that are inflammable. In my case, the whole building is timber.
I know this video has been out for a while but you have to make sure your springs are rated for the added weight of the insulation because those springs are designed for garage doors without insulation.
Adjusting the springs is something you can get done, but the added weight is only 2 kg and my door is used 2 or 3 times a day and I am not seeing any difference in the operation.
That foam is lite but probably need to add a 1/ 4 to 1/2 turn total between the 4 springs to balance out the door ...
Don't use plain foam, get foil covered, it doesn't get discolored with age and is fire resistant
Good luck finding the right thickness in Australia. Very few choices
Order it the right thickness
What about closing gaps between the door and the wall.?
Maybe a brush seal?
Hi, nice video, great tips !! I'll follow them , thanks a lot from Wales. Gus
Thanks Gus. You may need to retension your door's springs for the little extra weight. I haven't and all working great but some experts recommend it be done.
Pro job, mate. 👍
It's the simple things in life...
Looks great David. Can't wait for what comes next. :)
CNC IS NEXT!
You never can tell...maybe, maybe not, lol.
Supposedly, if you get the foam with the reflective foil, and place it towards the door with a small air gap, that is the most effective.
Probably a lot more expensive.
@@DavidStanton 4x8 sheets with the foil are about $8 at the big box hardware stores. 4 sheets would cover a double garage door.
Hey Dave, just saw this and reckon you must be the man to solve this one. You did a great job on your panel lifts so now tell me how to do my Rolla Doors. If you can do that I'll even pay you. Hmm, nah.
Can't help you.
@@DavidStanton Thanks but I was kidding.
The next 3 or 4 videos! Big build😁😁😁😁😁👍👍👍👍👍
Hey David, nice job. I was just considering this for my garage - no woodworking, that's in the shed, but to cut down on the very strong morning sun. I'm in Perth, too, so this looks like a great option! SuperPhil
I am not in Perth but foam sales are. Very helpful guys.
Brilliant…
Thank you good notes
You're welcome!
Great job, curious though where's your electric opener motor? or is this a manual lift door?
Great job.
I'm wondering if we can get the right thickness in the U.S.
I suppose the edges could be rabbeted to fit. May be messy.
a foam supplier will cut to size on request.
You can also use relief cuts and place the cut side toward the door, the recessed edges you csn use insulating spray foam for a better insulative seal, and even on the square "raised" parts of each garage panel. It's a little bit of redundancy, but makes about 4-10 Fahrenheit difference overall.
You can get a kit to do this, and its the correct type of foam for fire code
Wish you had a before and after of the sound when you open the garage.
Sorry.
@@DavidStanton Did it make much difference in softening the sound of the garage door opening and closing?
Great job, did you have to adjust the tension because of the added weight?
Yes I did
I am thinking of insulating my garage door.
But, foam like yours is not a great thermal insulator.
I was thinking if sticking aluminium sheet on the foam would be an improvement. Another problem are gaps on sides of the door.
Hi hanna! My foam is a great thermal insulator. There are brushes you can use for side gaps.
Hi Dave! That’s a great job, I’ll be doing the same this Easter in SA..I want to check if it caused any issue with the motor for the panel lift due to the addition of weight.. keep it up! Cheers..
Thanks for the compliment Rishi Khanna! I haven't noticed any difference but you may want to have the tension springs adjusted.
I assume you can still open and close the door without issue?
Opens and closes like the first day I owned it.
Would id be worth while to spray foam the metal verticals that are hollow, or per packing the channels with fiberglass then putting in the foam board
ealdydar depends on how hot or cold it gets at your place. The spray may crack when the door is raised and lowered?
ill give you a Thumbs up for the Rolf Harris joke.
I live in the UK so it might be a bit colder than you but the next thing you need to do is insulate the ceiling
Interesting point C Gee. The ceiling is actually the floor for the attic, which in turn is fully insulated.
Great job Dave!
And it was a good call to take that speed lip reading course to figure out what your were saying at 5:12 onwards 👍
*Chairman of the Board* Nothing 😅
Rolf Harris! Bloodygoodonyamate!!!
Thats right Dave! Most are insulted in the factory here in Scandinavia:)
Did you cut small strips to fit behind the frames at either side of the larger pieces, or are there voids in your insulation?
No.
Dave, the word you were looking for is "oil canning". When a flat piece of sheet metal flops n pops for lack of rigidity, it's called oil canning. No charge for that. You're welcome.
Thanks Donald.
Hi David, great video. Very informative. Thank you!
I have a slight issue. Each of my panels have plastic attachments that connect the upper and lower vertical bars which add about 2.5mm on each side at the top and bottom of each vertical bar. When I'm measuring the width of my panels, should I measure between each plastic attachment which then leaves a small 2.5mm gap elsewhere between the vertical attachments on each side when fitted, OR, should I measure the width from the middle of each vertical bar (not the plastic attachment) and cut the foam myself where the plastic attachments are located on each side, top and bottom?
Thanks for any advice you can offer me.
Send me a photo so I can get a better idea.
@DavidStanton I've sent some pics to your Facebook messenger. Thanks
I advise that you get a garage door technician around to re tension the springs after doing this. Do not attempt to do it yourself! The springs have massive tension on them and can be extremely dangerous.
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David Stanton
My garage door is one and a quarter inch deep and the insulation foam panels I bought are the same but my problem is the patterns they are one quarter inch thick ..
Do you think I’ll be able to fit the panels in even though the patterns are there
Now there's weight check the torsion and springs
Judy Saez 🤣🤣 a 2”thick 4x8 sheet of foam barley weighs 5 pounds 🤣🤣
Check the description box where I mention this.
Hi dave, how are you.please could you tell me how should I insulate my shed which use as my workshop.so I don't disturb my neighbour from the sound of my power tool.
There are a lot of products on the market to help you do this. Construction method of the shed also comes into play. There is no simple answer. You will need someone to come and look and advise.
@@DavidStanton thank you very much
Very clean looking job, but you have just changed the balance weight of your door. Doors with a single spring may require a different size spring or additional turns applied to the existing spring (which will shorten spring life).
Springs adjusted and going great.
Hi Dave, I live on the Gold Coast and I have a very dark green door which faces East. In summer it was almost impossible to work in the garage until after midday and even then , with the A/C on. Last year I found a guy on the Sunshine Coast doing garage door insulation. Take a look at Thermadooor.com.au. They offer panels for DIYers that fit like yours after cutting with a Stanley knife. They have a white melamine coating which is very attractive. I had them fit mine for a very reasonable cost. The door did require adjustment as it added weight. The insulation dropped the temperature by more than 10 degrees C. I love it. My wife now wants to kick me and the cars and the tools out, polyester the floor and make it a TV room.
tupid question... if I do this will my door open normal, its one of those automatic ones at go up. my previous one opened to the side.
Hi Katherine Cordero! All I can say is mine does. You may want to get someone to adjust the springs?
What kind of heat and air unit do you suggest for a garage. I'm going to turn my garage into a sewing room.
Hi Sara Sexton! Depends on your climate. In Australia I use reverse cycle air conditioning.
David, I love in Kentucky, USA. We could be 90 degrees in summer to 18 below in winter. It varies greatly and almost always humid.
What happens to the fire rating of the door and the amount of Smoke and Flame that will be produced in a fire event? Insulation should have a fire barrier of at least 20 minutes. Exposed insulation does come with some risk.
Hi Great work! I would refer you to foam sales in Western Australia for details on their product.
My garage door is wood from pre 1990. It doesn't have the grooves to fit the panels into. What should I do? Thx
This video is for a panel lift door, not wood. Get a garage door company to advise you.
Question for you David, why not just purchase an insulated door to start? I’m From Canada and that is just standard practice however we have various offerings with from R9 door insulation values to R20’s
This is for people who have a door fitted already.
Great job. What was the thickness of the foam and where did you get it?
he literally covers it in the video - foam sales in booragoon wa
I go through how to measure and where to get in the video.
If you wished you could have measured and cut the foam width as original , then cut each sheet in the centre vertically and push one sheet into its location ,this then leaves one piece left which you can cut a small vertical cut of at least 5 cm wide ..insert the remaining larger piece into the remaining roller door and push to the edge .you should have both large pieces located inside the roller door with a gap in the middle which now fits the 5cm offcut ..now that entire sheet is locked into both the upper and side channels
Hey David, did you have to adjust the tension in the door once there was additional weight?
Yes Ann, I had the door serviced as well.
Not like Blue Lagoon at all. It's a bit like calling you Staunton.
My "garage" is open to west and north east. Overheating in summer is incurable, in winter perhaps I could use an outdoors gas heater from the GREEN Shed.
I have a big tin shed out the back, but insulating that would cost an absolute fortune. It's quite nice in winter actually, if there's a bit of sun around.
Nice video mate. Was the change in temperature noticeable afterwards? Especially in summer?
Thank you Carl Love. Yes, huge change in winter and summer.
The only thing I don't like is that the foam is exposed. I would possibly use aluminum flashing and cover the foam, install the same way could probably leave it a but wider than the foam and be able to tuck it in top and bottom.
Thanks suskyboy3! The exposed foam hasn't been an issue and it has been a while since I did this video.
Adjust the springs for the difference of weight.
Done.
Looks great mate. Did you do any before and after noise measurements? I'm interested in doing this to keep the neighbours happy but seems like a bit of work and I want to make sure it actually makes a measurable difference.
I have pretty much the same door and hold my breath every time I run my CNC or saw (suburban Sydney).
As usual, videos very much appreciated. Thanks.
I haven't taken any comparison noise or sound measurements but I can tell you that it makes a difference to me on the inside when it is raining. Can't hear a thing. Also much quieter when the door is opening and closing.
They have been using foil backed foam for decades in Europe.Why is Australia so far behind?
Philip Devenish, the weather isn't as cold here.
I like the insulation value & the sound deadening must be nice...
What did you do to fireproof it? ? I am scared of that so much i might cover it with flat sheet metal, or maybe there's a fireproof paint. Fits great & does the job but i couldn't sleep just left raw
A lot of people use this stuff in between their floor joists under their house. People also have curtains on windows....there are a lot of flammable items we have everywhere in our homes and garages.
@@DavidStanton thats true..people store gasoline,paint and BBQ tanks in their garage also..👍👍