This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I don't know what you're saying. Write your post in a way so the layman person can understand. If I need my water heater replaced what do I tell them to do to implement your fan solution?
Instead of paying for the 'extended warranty,' you can just replace the anode rod every 4-6 years. They're anywhere from $10-50, depending on the kind. This is something you should do regardless of what tank you buy. I just checked the anode rod in my 7 year old tank that had a 6 yr warranty and it was completely gone. I think it was more than a coincidence!
You'll also want a heavy duty impact gun to remove the old anode and you'll need enough vertical height to reinstall the new one. Ideally, take it outside and lay the heater on it's side. Then remove the anode and drain valve and spray out the sediment with a garden hose. Then you can peek inside with a small flash light and inspect the inside and then replace the anode.
At the beginning of the video it's not fair that you compared a 40 tall to a 50 short. If you look in the spec sheets the talls are significantly more efficient than the shorts. So it's a bad test to compare recovery rate on only 2 water heaters while changing 2 variables (capacity and form factor). You should compare 4 water heaters to understand the changes caused by 2 variables.
First home at 27 years old and been in my home 8 years, never knew my water heater had to be drained once a year. Just know now I see a lot of mineral build up around faucets. Thank you for all the information, will be putting it to use.
I think you need to drain it at least once every 2-3 years and change the anode every 3-5 years. If the bib completely clogs, you need to back flush it with a washer hose connected to a garden hose. There are YT videos showing how to do that.
Built our house in '98 and still using the original Rheem Ruud 50 gal gas hot water heater. Flushed it a couple times, way back when, it works just fine. Never swapped the anode either. But I bought a brand new 50 gal Rheem, going to install it next couple days. I been living on borrowed tank time for 10 years. It owes me nothing. Big fan of the Rheems.
Had the nest luck with Richmond 40 Gal, gas w/ nine year warranty. Got 14 years so far and still going. Thanks, and when I repl. it, I'll install a 3/4 " ball valve on the drain outlet. Toss the plastic or other cheap valve.
I have heard that there is no difference between the higher warranteed models and the lower. Having a different anode would make sense, but just replace the anode in 5 years and save the money. Plus who actually honors a warranty, they always find a way to wiggle out of paying it. The second anode shouldn't change how well the tank is protected, it would just make the replacement interval longer. It would get more life out of it for people who never replace them (most people).
anode rods are typically replaced between 5 to 10 years. a good anode (magnesium) is less than $60. performing annual flushing of tank to get rid of sediment and replacing the anode when needed are far and away the number one factor determining the life of a water heater.
what I have found being an owner of 22 water heaters currently, longevity of a 6 year Cheap water heater vs a 12 year warranty premium unit is about 10 years, and the waranty is usually prorated, so you dont get a new one free if a 12 year unit dies at 10 years. and they dont pay labor, so my conclusion is buy the $300 special at the big box (40 gal Electric) and plan to replace it every 8-10 years, vs buying a $650 12 year your gona replace every 10 years anyway. there are many factors that play in, but this has been my experience. same goes for furnaces but life is about 15 years on the units of today, or of 15ish years ago anyway.
22 water heaters?! You must take baths in a swimming pool and drain it every time.. or have one hell of a family.. you daisey chain em all or they each have their own distribution? With 22 heaters you could have heated toilet water, heated hose for the yard... heated water fountain so it gets all smokey in the winter.. big money over here..
@@Z-Ack I have rental properties, so I own 1 per unit, so I actually have 27 water heaters now including the one in my personal home, and the spec house i am building.
The ppk is installed on the hot side since the cold has the everclean dip tube to help prevent sediment build up. It’s also important to note, the ppk increases the tank protection and warranty. Does not affect the parts.
Always great to follow you with the modern builds! As a Seabee in the navy your knowledge has helped me both with design and certain product usage. Keep up the good work!
My parents' house has a 27-year-old Rheem water heater. It probably has never been drained, or anodes replaced. Only problem a couple of years ago was the igniter failed, replaced that it is still running. Very hard water. I am replacing it this year, so I might try to cut it open and see what the insides look like.
Hey Matt! USAS Veteran here and I have a 40 gallon gas water heater tank that is near 27 years old. Knock on wood it still works however, I can tell it's probably time to upgrade to a new one. I've never drained it for the 18 years I've been living in my home. Do any 40 gallon tanks already come with the extra long rods and stuff you talked about in this video or do I have to buy them separate? Second, what brand should I go with?
Thanks for explaining! What I learned: as long as I replace the anode rod, getting a cheaper warranty is just fine! Holy cow the anode rode is a $50 part!
woah. thanks for the tip on the cold water anode rod. i've never seen those. i'm just about to install a new 40 gallon water heater at my house with a 9 year warranty. they definitely don't make them like they used to ! my parents said theirs lasted for like 35 years and was probably never drained !! car batteries as well used to last 10-20 years .. what are they doing to us ??? lol
The nipple couple with anode rod you hold is for hot water outlet, if you put it in cold water inlet then you will never get hot water. Install expansion tank, check T&P release valve at least once a year, flush water heater 1~2 times/ year will make water heater last longer.
Thank you to all vets, I plan to serve beside you. Thanks Matt for drilling into my head to drain your tank. I need to visit my parents and ask them if they ever have. I dont think they have and its been over 15 years since they lived there. Also the water heater has plastic at the valve. They want to go to tankless. Any tips that I can forward? They want a gas one.
i was going to buy a tankless but the cost savings is not that much. they are a lot more money and you have to have a much bigger gas supply line for them. at the end of the life span, they total cost is about the same. i stayed with the tank.
30 years of service plumbing taught me a few things. 9 out of ten water heaters are turned up past 120 which is the biggest life killer. 50 gal only gives you 37 gals nonstop. The third person rarely makes it through the third shower. So the homeowner turns the water heater up. 40gals is only 27 nonstop. The 40s are the ones I always find cranked through the roof. There is why your thermal expansion tank life is also shortened greatly. I don't focus on anode rods and recovery time. Rods last one year with soft water according to PM magazine. Unless it's a one person studio apt I rarely recommend a 40.
If you're hot water heater is cranked up past 135 or so, you're putting the fam at risk for Legionella, though. I'm a fan of a bigger tank, higher temps, and an electric anode.
I just bought a Rheem hot water heater with the extended warranty kit he mentioned but that 2nd anode rod with 6 inch nipples goes into the HOT Water inlet, not cold as he said. Why does it need 6" nipples and not 3" which is much more common ? Rheem customer support do not know. Also, I wonder why they don't just make all anode rods flexible (like nunchucks) so that users can significantly easily replace them with no space constraints. My two cents.
Rheem used to sell tanks to professionals only. A couple of years ago, they came out with the "performance" model they sell at Home Depot, comes with the cheap valve and a different gas valve. Problem is, it's quite a bit cheaper than the pro model but looks almost the same. After we install a tank for a customer, if they happen to see the "cheaper" tank at Home Depot, they think we ripped them off. Also if you buy a tank with the plastic valve, just replace it with a better valve before you even fill it.
It is a little more expensive, but I prefer replacing the valve with a full port ball valve and a hose adaptor when I install or replace a drain valve. The boiler drain style valves have a very small opening that the water flows through and when enough minerals build up in the tank from regular use (in my area, quite significant amounts), they can stop the boiler drain valve from flowing and the valve may have to be removed to clear the buildup (a time consuming, expensive and messy process). The full port valve is nearly the diameter of the connection when open and does not clog nearly as easily, and when it does, a rod can be slid straight through the valve to break up the clog.
woohunter1, great thought! I take the handle off of the valve, strap it to the cold water line and cap the hose connection with a brass cap. I don't know if this is considered tamper resistant, but it keeps the users from hot water gushing everywhere.
I bought a rheem gas water heater. Pilot went out so I lit it again. Was out again in thr morning. And wouldn't stay lit. I replaced the thermocouple. Didn't fix it. I removed that stupid sensor thing where the thermocouple screws into the valve. Works fine. So now I have to replace the valve with the same valve that's gonna do the sane thing in a few months lol.
That warranty and second anode is u inquest to Rheem which is sold by Home Depot. If you have Bradford and White you can simply choose to upgrade the warranty to 10 year.
Well, this is sure timely. Mine should have been replaced about 10 years ago. I quite shamefully placed a water leak sensor near it as the worst of stop-gap measures. Thanks again Matt!
I have one and they are great. I'm surprised Matt doesn't do these in nearly every custom home. It's a lot better than lugging a vacuum cleaner around the house.
Matt......3 to 5 year Warranty .......these disappeared many years ago. Today lowest Warranty Is 6 years (major mfg.). That extended Warranty anode rod......1. Where do you get it, 2. Where is it installed and 3. More info on the warranty .....Thanks. Jim
@Olga L Calderón Water heater Is a Water heater Is a Water heater. BUY by price, BUY the lowest Warranty heater. Average life of a Water heater used to be 8 years. Today It’s ? I currently live ina home we bought New In 2003. The builder put In the Water heater. A50 gallon, natural gas through a regular Chimney. First 7 years there were 3 of us and after only 2. Tha Water heater Is still working. I turned down the heater So it makes about 120 degree Water, when it was new. The brand Is State Select made by State Industries. Thanks...Jim
Interesting. But why not go with a even smaller tank and add a timer and schedule your main hot water usage activities then you only heat the water just before you need it, washing hands and the ilk can be done with the residual heat. Or even get a Highbred that has that heat pump to suck the heat out of your house and dump it into the water, cooling the house a little and heating the water getting two things done for the energy.
Hybrid water heaters are more expensive up front, lose effectiveness and capacity when the area they are mounted in gets cold and require significantly more maintenance and repair as they get older than conventional or tankless water heaters. Ground linked versions are a much better choice, but have huge upfront costs, even when sharing a loop with other water source heat pumps. The timer idea with smaller tanks has it's place, but recovery cost from off cycle to usable water temperatures often negates a large chunk of the energy savings and point of use heaters serving only one or more devices are often a better choice (they heat only the flowing water as it is needed and are off the rest of the time). In the end, the tradeoff is between cost to install and maintain vs the cost to run. The requirements of the building and it's users dictate what is most cost effective for any given installation.
Bravo, to the veterans, and to Matt for saluting those who protected our freedoms. Matt's advice is golden, as usual. Here's some feedback ... the test of time. I installed a 10 year tank, the best I could buy, in my Long Beach CA home, in 2000. After 18 years, I replaced it even though it had not failed. I was worried my sacrificial anode would be utterly gone, thereby putting my valuable copper fresh water pipes at risk. To my delight, the old sacrificial anode (which I extricated and kept, to this day) was largely intact, though heavily caked in some kind of sloppy crystalline salt. So I presume it was still effective in protecting the steel tank... which could have thrown tiny bits of rust into my copper system, all dangerous to the copper. (Refer to This Old House UA-cam by Richard Trethewey on this point, if interested.) My old tank was 50 gal, my new one is 38 (per soCal special ultra-low-NOX categorization). It works fabulously with my pump-driven copper loop, all very well insulated. Wasting water is a big no-no in soCal and I don't need to waste anything to take a shower. Also my dishwasher gets really hot water, as the pump is timed to run just before the dishwasher operates; thus a minimum of electric heating (very expensive here in soCal) is needed to get water up to temperature, in the dishwasher. Again, my new tank has the longest warranty (12 years?) I could buy (Rheem, at Home Depot). I have five adults in this household, and nobody wants for hot water. Two can shower simultaneously, no problem at all.
Love all your videos and I joined this month. You have helped me a lot with my renovation. Where can I by a build hat and/or build t-shirt to keep me motivated?
You should reccommend a good gas control valve. The Honeywell ones that come on all the tanks are total garbage. Mine bite the dust about every 2 - 3 years.
Does the same apply for electric heaters? I'm in the process right now of flushing my house and will be buying a new tank soon. I'm one of those lucky people to have a house that was built when the tanks had the dissentagrating dip tubes.. Guess what every faucet in my house has in it... The previous owner just thought they had really hard water........
Trying to understand what California has done with the plumbing and water heater code. In 2000, I could get a high quality tank installed for $1,000. In 2009, upgrading to slightly larger tank bradford white 65g was $1,700 in San Diego. Now, all the good plumbers in the local area want over $3500 for a 50g and claim workers comp and code changes have made their business super expensive. One of them got very pissed when I laughed at a quote for $5,200 on a 75g tank.... I highly doubt the retail stores are quoting anywhere near the same amounts for rheem/AO standard lower quality units
Ran into a snafu . The new heater is a bit taller by two inches. The exhaust stack don't match. Darn . Outdoor closet. It's not straight up but has a 90 elbow near top.
I never had anyone drain my hot water tank but considering some people said theirs lasted 15+ years, maybe that’s the reason. The last tank I had lasted 13 & 1/2 years with only one service call under warranty. They always recommend to have it drained once a year but I’ve not known anyone to do that.
@@revrotunda3206 My plumber father always said if you don't drain from the initial purchase, don't start draining several years in, that sediment could be preventing a leak. I have a Rheem Power Vent 2, 17 years old, no issues but am starting to get nervous. Don't know if it was ever drained as I am a 3rd owner of this house.
@@KM15-13 I always had purchased a Rheem. I lived in a neighborhood where the Rheem manufacturing plant was about a mile away. They’ve since demolished it. I would bet they don’t make these tanks like they used to but that’s just a guess on my part as there’s no way to really know. When I bought my last house, there was already a brand new A. O. Smith in here; a brand I never heard of before but it did last 13 & 1/2 years without draining. But that definitely makes sense to me to not mess with the draining of it years in if not at all. When the A. O. Smith went out, I got a Richmond. Never heard of that brand either as I’ve always gotten Rheems but my neighbor not only sold it to me for only $100.00 but installed it for me as well. It was his Mother’s tank but she never used it as it was too big. Hopefully it will last!
thanks for the video...our 1992 tank...when we fill the whirlpool bath there is no more hot water....so I'm still pondering going for bigger size in this ranch house...?
Jason Harbison i wondered if 10 more gallons would make the whirlpool experience nicer As it is filling it and having no more hot water is a real bummer...useless tub barely used...i wondered if 10 gallons could make a difference...
Matt, I spoke to a local plumbing company today and they mentioned some extra safety devices that were optional, and I'd like to get an honest opinion from you, as to whether or not they are worth the extra money. I got that local plumbing company to email me a quote on their premium install pkg. Below is a description of the "Premium Install Package for Natural Gas Water Heaters - Includes Hard Piped Water Lines, Water Heater Shut Off Valve, Gas Flex Line, Gas Valve, Drain Pan, Upgraded Water Heater Drain Valve, and T& P Connection to Existing T&P Drainline. It also includes a Battery Powered Leak Detection Device that can detect water in your pan and shut down the water heater to prevent damage." 1) Are there any of those items listed above that aren't worth the extra money for safety? 2) He also mentioned an optional "expansion tank." Is that an option I should add for safety? I greatly appreciated this video and would greatly appreciate your input. Thank you so much!
The optional expansion tank is for city’s with high water pressure or wells with high water pressure, if your over 50 psi then I would get one. I would get a drain pan and make sure it drains to a place like a sump pit. Also how much did he quote you.
@@tomatexelon thank you for your reply. I don’t remember for sure how much he quoted because it was 4 months ago but I think it was between $2500-3000? Is there a way that I can test the psi of my water pressure myself?
@@karynbanksley7110 Yes, you can screw on a Home Water Pressure Test Gauge on to the outside water faucet. And it will tell you the PSI. Mine is 42 psi. You can buy these at Home Depot or Amazon for about $10 - $20. Since my city water pressure is regulated to 42 psi, I don’t need a expansion tank. The expansion tank is for higher pressures. The price he quoted you is about $1000 too high! If you have some handy people to help you watch some UA-cam videos and it will show you how to do it. The new tank might look heavy because it’s a big object however it’s not that bad because it is hollow until it’s installed and filled with water.
@@tomatexelon You are so kind to provide such helpful info to me. I would never be able to change out my own water heater because I live alone & have no one able-bodied to help me & because it is up in the attic which requires climbing a ladder while carrying the tank. After being in 3 bad car wrecks in the last 20 years, (I was not at fault for any of the 3) I would not take the risk of sustaining more injuries. But I greatly appreciate you telling me where I can get the device to test my own water pressure. There are a few other “Safety features“ that I learned about in my research that I am not sure I need, but I would need to go back through my notes and see what they are. I have been battling migraine headaches several times a week due to severe whiplash injuries from each wreck, and a head injury in the 3rd wreck, and I am dealing with a migraine right now. But may I ask you a few questions later on by replying to this thread?
Hey Matt, first of all, thanks for all the great information. I saw this AC Smit gas water heater at Lowe's that is Self Cleaning. What does that mean and how does it work?
Wait, I need to drain my water heater once per year??? I should get on that since we moved in 4 years ago. 😲 (I'm not a builder, but I'm apparently an incompetent home owner! What other things am I probably doing wrong?)
I've replaced a few water heaters in my lifetime and this yearly draining thing is the first time I've ever heard of it. And just how are we homeowners supposed to drain a tank, drag a garden hose into the house, wait for the tank to cool, disconnect the inlet line and drain the water into the yard? Seems inconvenient. I'd like to see this done in high rise apartments. There'd be a lot of hoses hanging out windows.lol In my day it was said to never open drain valves unless absolutely necessary. Or else you'll end up with a leaky valve, like one of the commenters here. If yearly draining was true then there'd be a convenient way to do it like an added drain line to the water heater drain valve (when building a home) in the first place and maybe even instructions somewhere, say like on the water heater itself. Hmm! Me no think Matt is so right. Nor Bob Villa.
I have fushed my tank maybe two or three times in 24 years. Everything still works. It does have one of those weak plastic valves, so I don't flush anymore out of fear it will break.
Steve Simpson are you living in the US? Every tank heater has a drain at the bottom of the tank. Yes you connect a garden hose to the tank. Most tanks are elevated now so draining is convenient to a nearby plumbing device. My tank is in my garage and can drain right outside.
Mechanical rooms where these tanks are installed usually have a floor drain in case of any leaks- also a place to drain the tank or heating system, that’s why u don’t see ppl in condos with hoses sticking out there window
Everyone in our area has sulfur gas in the water...I heard there is an anode rod specifically for that....what would that be...also...getting ready to remodel most of the house...what is a good way to re-plumb so the sulfur gas does not eat out any metal pipes or brass connections like used in pex...?
Look into electric anodes. I also hear of zinc for that purpose. Why every tank doesn't have an electric anode? They'd sell a lot fewer tanks because they wouldn't corrode.
After getting a new water heater, it brings water across the house way faster and it's much hotter even at a medium setting. I'm gonna flush it every 6 months now after seeing how much crap can be in one. We only flushed the old one once haha
thanks for this Matt, not sure what things are like in texas but here in Toledo Ohio the HVAC industry and unions heavily controls the distributors and therefore it can be difficult as a DIYer to purchase the "good stuff" we are usually stuck with whatever the box stores offer. Any tips on how to buy the more professional type products?
I have a 75 gallon AO Smith gas water heater installed 1994 in NYC 2 family house. Periodically I ran water from the water heater spigot until it ran clear in a bucket. But now I’m seeing rust accumulate on top of the water tank around the center opening and around a water pipe. So I’ve been lucky with this tanks lifespan. I just want to replace it with a reputable name brand that can handle washer machine & 4 floors of full showers/tub and toilets. Any suggestions?!!
I'll be installing a free (rebate from gov) heat pump to replace gas heater. Is there anything wrong with keeping the gas unit in the water plumbing line compared to disconnecting and leaving it sit dry. I may want to switch back to gas? The reviews aren't so good with the heat pump units and am expecting it to die sooner than later. But it's free and I have solar panels.
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
I don't know what you're saying. Write your post in a way so the layman person can understand. If I need my water heater replaced what do I tell them to do to implement your fan solution?
Instead of paying for the 'extended warranty,' you can just replace the anode rod every 4-6 years. They're anywhere from $10-50, depending on the kind. This is something you should do regardless of what tank you buy. I just checked the anode rod in my 7 year old tank that had a 6 yr warranty and it was completely gone. I think it was more than a coincidence!
You'll also want a heavy duty impact gun to remove the old anode and you'll need enough vertical height to reinstall the new one.
Ideally, take it outside and lay the heater on it's side. Then remove the anode and drain valve and spray out the sediment with a garden hose. Then you can peek inside with a small flash light and inspect the inside and then replace the anode.
@@phiksit arent anode rods only for electric tanks?
Don Schlonski no...they are in all tank water heaters
@@phiksit if you short of vertical space then you can buy sections anode rod.
@@RoddyDa they are not in all tank heaters but most
At the beginning of the video it's not fair that you compared a 40 tall to a 50 short. If you look in the spec sheets the talls are significantly more efficient than the shorts. So it's a bad test to compare recovery rate on only 2 water heaters while changing 2 variables (capacity and form factor). You should compare 4 water heaters to understand the changes caused by 2 variables.
First home at 27 years old and been in my home 8 years, never knew my water heater had to be drained once a year. Just know now I see a lot of mineral build up around faucets. Thank you for all the information, will be putting it to use.
If you drain it and the bid gets clogged then you are screwed…. Never drain it
Same here but I guess it’s also risky to drain it
I think you need to drain it at least once every 2-3 years and change the anode every 3-5 years. If the bib completely clogs, you need to back flush it with a washer hose connected to a garden hose. There are YT videos showing how to do that.
Built our house in '98 and still using the original Rheem Ruud 50 gal gas hot water heater. Flushed it a couple times, way back when, it works just fine. Never swapped the anode either. But I bought a brand new 50 gal Rheem, going to install it next couple days. I been living on borrowed tank time for 10 years. It owes me nothing. Big fan of the Rheems.
Had the nest luck with Richmond 40 Gal, gas w/ nine year warranty. Got 14 years so far and still going. Thanks, and when I repl. it, I'll install a 3/4 " ball valve on the drain outlet. Toss the plastic or other cheap valve.
I have heard that there is no difference between the higher warranteed models and the lower. Having a different anode would make sense, but just replace the anode in 5 years and save the money. Plus who actually honors a warranty, they always find a way to wiggle out of paying it.
The second anode shouldn't change how well the tank is protected, it would just make the replacement interval longer. It would get more life out of it for people who never replace them (most people).
@@DanN-nv7kg 20K in legal fees, to maybe recover 500, yeah that is why they don't fight it.
You should show how the extra anode is installed on a show.
anode rods are typically replaced between 5 to 10 years. a good anode (magnesium) is less than $60. performing annual flushing of tank to get rid of sediment and replacing the anode when needed are far and away the number one factor determining the life of a water heater.
The second anode would go in the hot side outlet, the inlet needs a dip tube to direct cold water down to the burner
I am a Veteran, thanks! And I want to THANK YOU for that great information. Heading out now and will probably buy a Rheem like the one in your demo.
what I have found being an owner of 22 water heaters currently, longevity of a 6 year Cheap water heater vs a 12 year warranty premium unit is about 10 years, and the waranty is usually prorated, so you dont get a new one free if a 12 year unit dies at 10 years. and they dont pay labor, so my conclusion is buy the $300 special at the big box (40 gal Electric) and plan to replace it every 8-10 years, vs buying a $650 12 year your gona replace every 10 years anyway. there are many factors that play in, but this has been my experience. same goes for furnaces but life is about 15 years on the units of today, or of 15ish years ago anyway.
22 water heaters?! You must take baths in a swimming pool and drain it every time.. or have one hell of a family.. you daisey chain em all or they each have their own distribution? With 22 heaters you could have heated toilet water, heated hose for the yard... heated water fountain so it gets all smokey in the winter.. big money over here..
@@Z-Ack I have rental properties, so I own 1 per unit, so I actually have 27 water heaters now including the one in my personal home, and the spec house i am building.
The Secondary Anode Rod Installs on the HOT WATER OUTLET Side ! The Plastic Dip Tube installs on the COLD WATER INLET Side !
Sad isn’t it.
Thanks Matt from NE Pa. Great info! Never knew about the extra rod. Love your information.Nice to see a ethical builder
The ppk is installed on the hot side since the cold has the everclean dip tube to help prevent sediment build up. It’s also important to note, the ppk increases the tank protection and warranty. Does not affect the parts.
Always great to follow you with the modern builds! As a Seabee in the navy your knowledge has helped me both with design and certain product usage. Keep up the good work!
My parents' house has a 27-year-old Rheem water heater. It probably has never been drained, or anodes replaced. Only problem a couple of years ago was the igniter failed, replaced that it is still running. Very hard water. I am replacing it this year, so I might try to cut it open and see what the insides look like.
Hey Matt! USAS Veteran here and I have a 40 gallon gas water heater tank that is near 27 years old. Knock on wood it still works however, I can tell it's probably time to upgrade to a new one. I've never drained it for the 18 years I've been living in my home. Do any 40 gallon tanks already come with the extra long rods and stuff you talked about in this video or do I have to buy them separate? Second, what brand should I go with?
Thanks for explaining! What I learned: as long as I replace the anode rod, getting a cheaper warranty is just fine! Holy cow the anode rode is a $50 part!
Be sure to talk with your gas company about a rebate for getting an efficient, money saving unit too! 💰
Both of my storage tanks lasted 17 years. And I never drained either of them once.
Well that's a anecdote. I live in a area with hard water and Mine lasted 5 years. I never drained, you can hear the calcium running around
You have good water.👍
Just replaced my first one today. 22 years old never drained. Hard well water.
50 gallon basic chimney vent Rheem, bought in 1996, never drained once and it just leaked all over the basement last night, May 2001.
Same here never drained 50 gallon gas. Installed 1999, so 21 years.
Very unbiased, honest honest honest, not trying to sell a particular brand 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Really informative video. Thank for making it and being a USMC veteran, thank you for the parting message.
My A.O. Smth tanks are 16 years old (installed in 2003) and are still working fine. Never changed the anode rods and never drained the tanks.
Same here! Have a 19yo Bradford White. No problems, knock wood!
woah. thanks for the tip on the cold water anode rod. i've never seen those. i'm just about to install a new 40 gallon water heater at my house with a 9 year warranty. they definitely don't make them like they used to ! my parents said theirs lasted for like 35 years and was probably never drained !! car batteries as well used to last 10-20 years .. what are they doing to us ??? lol
The nipple couple with anode rod you hold is for hot water outlet, if you put it in cold water inlet then you will never get hot water.
Install expansion tank, check T&P release valve at least once a year, flush water heater 1~2 times/ year will make water heater last longer.
Damn, I just bought a 50 gallon tank. I wish I'd seen this yesterday.
Thank you to all vets, I plan to serve beside you. Thanks Matt for drilling into my head to drain your tank. I need to visit my parents and ask them if they ever have. I dont think they have and its been over 15 years since they lived there. Also the water heater has plastic at the valve. They want to go to tankless. Any tips that I can forward? They want a gas one.
i was going to buy a tankless but the cost savings is not that much. they are a lot more money and you
have to have a much bigger gas supply line for them. at the end of the life span, they total cost is about the same. i stayed with the tank.
Amazing country is right! You also have got great content. Please keep it coming. I love it.
30 years of service plumbing taught me a few things. 9 out of ten water heaters are turned up past 120 which is the biggest life killer. 50 gal only gives you 37 gals nonstop. The third person rarely makes it through the third shower. So the homeowner turns the water heater up. 40gals is only 27 nonstop. The 40s are the ones I always find cranked through the roof. There is why your thermal expansion tank life is also shortened greatly. I don't focus on anode rods and recovery time. Rods last one year with soft water according to PM magazine. Unless it's a one person studio apt I rarely recommend a 40.
If you're hot water heater is cranked up past 135 or so, you're putting the fam at risk for Legionella, though. I'm a fan of a bigger tank, higher temps, and an electric anode.
@@charlesmartel3425 turning the temp higher doesn’t make the risk for disease worse it makes it less. You risk it when the temp is too low.
I just bought a Rheem hot water heater with the extended warranty kit he mentioned but that 2nd anode rod with 6 inch nipples goes into the HOT Water inlet, not cold as he said. Why does it need 6" nipples and not 3" which is much more common ? Rheem customer support do not know. Also, I wonder why they don't just make all anode rods flexible (like nunchucks) so that users can significantly easily replace them with no space constraints. My two cents.
They do. www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-PROTECH-54-in-by-0-9-in-Diameter-Flexible-Magnesium-Anode-Rod-for-Electric-and-Gas-Water-Heaters-SP8371B/205652259
Great tips thanks! That was cool you thanked a Veteran!
Appreciate the knowledge greatly, how times have changed for this country since July of 2018.
I have a 35 year old electric water heater, that’s never had any kind of maintenance. Still working
lol go buy one
Nice video and thankful I watched to the end to hear the parting message. 👍
Is there a video showing how to install the extra anode rod?
Rheem used to sell tanks to professionals only. A couple of years ago, they came out with the "performance" model they sell at Home Depot, comes with the cheap valve and a different gas valve. Problem is, it's quite a bit cheaper than the pro model but looks almost the same. After we install a tank for a customer, if they happen to see the "cheaper" tank at Home Depot, they think we ripped them off. Also if you buy a tank with the plastic valve, just replace it with a better valve before you even fill it.
Didn’t that that. Appreciate you commenting
It is a little more expensive, but I prefer replacing the valve with a full port ball valve and a hose adaptor when I install or replace a drain valve. The boiler drain style valves have a very small opening that the water flows through and when enough minerals build up in the tank from regular use (in my area, quite significant amounts), they can stop the boiler drain valve from flowing and the valve may have to be removed to clear the buildup (a time consuming, expensive and messy process). The full port valve is nearly the diameter of the connection when open and does not clog nearly as easily, and when it does, a rod can be slid straight through the valve to break up the clog.
Bear U make sure it's tamper proof if you have little ones in the house or if you sell your house, in order to satisfy modern codes!
woohunter1, great thought! I take the handle off of the valve, strap it to the cold water line and cap the hose connection with a brass cap. I don't know if this is considered tamper resistant, but it keeps the users from hot water gushing everywhere.
Bear U I would think that would satisfy an inspector, being that you just need a screwdriver or a channel lock to open the factory valve.
I bought a rheem gas water heater. Pilot went out so I lit it again. Was out again in thr morning. And wouldn't stay lit. I replaced the thermocouple. Didn't fix it. I removed that stupid sensor thing where the thermocouple screws into the valve. Works fine. So now I have to replace the valve with the same valve that's gonna do the sane thing in a few months lol.
That warranty and second anode is u inquest to Rheem which is sold by Home Depot. If you have Bradford and White you can simply choose to upgrade the warranty to 10 year.
Well, this is sure timely. Mine should have been replaced about 10 years ago. I quite shamefully placed a water leak sensor near it as the worst of stop-gap measures. Thanks again Matt!
Thank you for your tips and also thank you for your services.
My gas water heater was installed in 1996 and is going strong. I've done nothing to maintain it. Probably will need to replace it soon though.
Same here (1996) but it's has started to leak, now I have to replace.
Wow, I had no idea I had to drain my water heater once a year.
Did I hear you correctly?
If you rewind the video he'll say it again 😉
@@lanejohnson8552 That wasn't nice, but it _did_ make me laugh.
Nice call out to the military. Thank you.
What about changing the metal anode every couple of years to extend the life of the tank?
Thanks for all the awesome information and have a great 4th!!!
Can you please do a video on central vacuum systems?
I have one and they are great. I'm surprised Matt doesn't do these in nearly every custom home. It's a lot better than lugging a vacuum cleaner around the house.
Happy 4th Matt, and thanks for this video. I have a feeling my tank will be soon to go.
Aren't the warranties all pro-rated?
My water heater is over 20 years old. Only had to replace the thermo couple so far.
Matt......3 to 5 year Warranty .......these disappeared many years ago. Today lowest Warranty Is 6 years (major mfg.). That extended Warranty anode rod......1. Where do you get it, 2. Where is it installed and 3. More info on the warranty .....Thanks. Jim
@Olga L Calderón Water heater Is a Water heater Is a Water heater. BUY by price, BUY the lowest Warranty heater. Average life of a Water heater used to be 8 years. Today It’s ? I currently live ina home we bought New In 2003. The builder put In the Water heater. A50 gallon, natural gas through a regular Chimney. First 7 years there were 3 of us and after only 2. Tha Water heater Is still working. I turned down the heater So it makes about 120 degree Water, when it was new. The brand Is State Select made by State Industries. Thanks...Jim
can i replace the rod regularly without installing the extension kit?
Interesting. But why not go with a even smaller tank and add a timer and schedule your main hot water usage activities then you only heat the water just before you need it, washing hands and the ilk can be done with the residual heat. Or even get a Highbred that has that heat pump to suck the heat out of your house and dump it into the water, cooling the house a little and heating the water getting two things done for the energy.
Hybrid water heaters are more expensive up front, lose effectiveness and capacity when the area they are mounted in gets cold and require significantly more maintenance and repair as they get older than conventional or tankless water heaters. Ground linked versions are a much better choice, but have huge upfront costs, even when sharing a loop with other water source heat pumps.
The timer idea with smaller tanks has it's place, but recovery cost from off cycle to usable water temperatures often negates a large chunk of the energy savings and point of use heaters serving only one or more devices are often a better choice (they heat only the flowing water as it is needed and are off the rest of the time).
In the end, the tradeoff is between cost to install and maintain vs the cost to run. The requirements of the building and it's users dictate what is most cost effective for any given installation.
Bravo, to the veterans, and to Matt for saluting those who protected our freedoms.
Matt's advice is golden, as usual. Here's some feedback ... the test of time. I installed a 10 year tank, the best I could buy, in my Long Beach CA home, in 2000. After 18 years, I replaced it even though it had not failed. I was worried my sacrificial anode would be utterly gone, thereby putting my valuable copper fresh water pipes at risk. To my delight, the old sacrificial anode (which I extricated and kept, to this day) was largely intact, though heavily caked in some kind of sloppy crystalline salt. So I presume it was still effective in protecting the steel tank... which could have thrown tiny bits of rust into my copper system, all dangerous to the copper. (Refer to This Old House UA-cam by Richard Trethewey on this point, if interested.)
My old tank was 50 gal, my new one is 38 (per soCal special ultra-low-NOX categorization). It works fabulously with my pump-driven copper loop, all very well insulated. Wasting water is a big no-no in soCal and I don't need to waste anything to take a shower. Also my dishwasher gets really hot water, as the pump is timed to run just before the dishwasher operates; thus a minimum of electric heating (very expensive here in soCal) is needed to get water up to temperature, in the dishwasher.
Again, my new tank has the longest warranty (12 years?) I could buy (Rheem, at Home Depot). I have five adults in this household, and nobody wants for hot water. Two can shower simultaneously, no problem at all.
Love all your videos and I joined this month. You have helped me a lot with my renovation. Where can I by a build hat and/or build t-shirt to keep me motivated?
Amen. Thank you all veterans!!!
I love my 50 gal tank, only two people in the home. Long showers. Wash clothes, use dishwasher all at once, still hot water.
You should reccommend a good gas control valve. The Honeywell ones that come on all the tanks are total garbage. Mine bite the dust about every 2 - 3 years.
So water heaters that originally come with a 12 year warranty already have two anodes ?
What do you think of State water heaters? My Rheam lasted 12 years and my plumber says State is really good. Thoughts?
I believe State is a builder grade (that is, low end) brand.
Does the same apply for electric heaters? I'm in the process right now of flushing my house and will be buying a new tank soon.
I'm one of those lucky people to have a house that was built when the tanks had the dissentagrating dip tubes..
Guess what every faucet in my house has in it...
The previous owner just thought they had really hard water........
Trying to understand what California has done with the plumbing and water heater code. In 2000, I could get a high quality tank installed for $1,000. In 2009, upgrading to slightly larger tank bradford white 65g was $1,700 in San Diego. Now, all the good plumbers in the local area want over $3500 for a 50g and claim workers comp and code changes have made their business super expensive. One of them got very pissed when I laughed at a quote for $5,200 on a 75g tank.... I highly doubt the retail stores are quoting anywhere near the same amounts for rheem/AO standard lower quality units
I have a 32 year-old 40 gallon Hoyt water heater on softened water that I'm about to replace...just because. No leaks!
ua-cam.com/video/cKxbWID4cP0/v-deo.html
Ran into a snafu . The new heater is a bit taller by two inches. The exhaust stack don't match. Darn . Outdoor closet. It's not straight up but has a 90 elbow near top.
Most of the time the warranties are prorated, meaning if 6yr warranty gives after 5 years, you’ll get like 50 bucks off of new unit.
So American water heater are different than our Indian Water heater they are huge
awesome presentation!!!! thank you for sharing.
Very helpful tips! Thanks! 😀
Good info, great post. Do people even drain their tank? Do you suggest an annual draining?
I never had anyone drain my hot water tank but considering some people said theirs lasted 15+ years, maybe that’s the reason. The last tank I had lasted 13 & 1/2 years with only one service call under warranty. They always recommend to have it drained once a year but I’ve not known anyone to do that.
@@revrotunda3206 My plumber father always said if you don't drain from the initial purchase, don't start draining several years in, that sediment could be preventing a leak. I have a Rheem Power Vent 2, 17 years old, no issues but am starting to get nervous. Don't know if it was ever drained as I am a 3rd owner of this house.
@@KM15-13
I always had purchased a Rheem. I lived in a neighborhood where the Rheem manufacturing plant was about a mile away. They’ve since demolished it. I would bet they don’t make these tanks like they used to but that’s just a guess on my part as there’s no way to really know. When I bought my last house, there was already a brand new A. O. Smith in here; a brand I never heard of before but it did last 13 & 1/2 years without draining. But that definitely makes sense to me to not mess with the draining of it years in if not at all. When the A. O. Smith went out, I got a Richmond. Never heard of that brand either as I’ve always gotten Rheems but my neighbor not only sold it to me for only $100.00 but installed it for me as well. It was his Mother’s tank but she never used it as it was too big. Hopefully it will last!
How do you Vent one of these if you have a small mechanical room in a cold climate?
thanks for the video...our 1992 tank...when we fill the whirlpool bath there is no more hot water....so I'm still pondering going for bigger size in this ranch house...?
Jason Harbison i wondered if 10 more gallons would make the whirlpool experience nicer
As it is filling it and having no more hot water is a real bummer...useless tub barely used...i wondered if 10 gallons could make a difference...
I hope you do a companion video covering electric hot water tanks. That is, the same as above, but using electricity instead of gas.
Your welcome. Keep up the great videos.
Matt, I spoke to a local plumbing company today and they mentioned some extra safety devices that were optional, and I'd like to get an honest opinion from you, as to whether or not they are worth the extra money.
I got that local plumbing company to email me a quote on their premium install pkg. Below is a description of the "Premium Install
Package for Natural Gas Water Heaters - Includes Hard Piped Water Lines, Water Heater Shut Off Valve, Gas Flex Line, Gas Valve, Drain Pan, Upgraded Water Heater Drain Valve, and T& P Connection to Existing T&P Drainline. It also includes a Battery Powered Leak Detection Device that can detect water in your pan and shut down the water heater to prevent damage."
1) Are there any of those items listed above that aren't worth the extra money for safety?
2) He also mentioned an optional "expansion tank." Is that an option I should add for safety?
I greatly appreciated this video and would greatly appreciate your input. Thank you so much!
The optional expansion tank is for city’s with high water pressure or wells with high water pressure, if your over 50 psi then I would get one. I would get a drain pan and make sure it drains to a place like a sump pit. Also how much did he quote you.
@@tomatexelon thank you for your reply. I don’t remember for sure how much he quoted because it was 4 months ago but I think it was between $2500-3000?
Is there a way that I can test the psi of my water pressure myself?
@@karynbanksley7110 Yes, you can screw on a Home Water Pressure Test Gauge on to the outside water faucet. And it will tell you the PSI. Mine is 42 psi. You can buy these at Home Depot or Amazon for about $10 - $20. Since my city water pressure is regulated to 42 psi, I don’t need a expansion tank. The expansion tank is for higher pressures. The price he quoted you is about $1000 too high! If you have some handy people to help you watch some UA-cam videos and it will show you how to do it. The new tank might look heavy because it’s a big object however it’s not that bad because it is hollow until it’s installed and filled with water.
@@tomatexelon You are so kind to provide such helpful info to me. I would never be able to change out my own water heater because I live alone & have no one able-bodied to help me & because it is up in the attic which requires climbing a ladder while carrying the tank. After being in 3 bad car wrecks in the last 20 years, (I was not at fault for any of the 3) I would not take the risk of sustaining more injuries. But I greatly appreciate you telling me where I can get the device to test my own water pressure. There are a few other “Safety features“ that I learned about in my research that I am not sure I need, but I would need to go back through my notes and see what they are. I have been battling migraine headaches several times a week due to severe whiplash injuries from each wreck, and a head injury in the 3rd wreck, and I am dealing with a migraine right now. But may I ask you a few questions later on by replying to this thread?
@@karynbanksley7110 Your welcome, wow! I hate migraine headaches! UA-cam is your friend, You can learn a lot. You can ask me questions anytime.
Hey Matt, first of all, thanks for all the great information. I saw this AC Smit gas water heater at Lowe's that is Self Cleaning. What does that mean and how does it work?
Nice report.
Why do i need to drain it every year? I didn't know they ever needed to be drained until now.
Wait, I need to drain my water heater once per year??? I should get on that since we moved in 4 years ago. 😲
(I'm not a builder, but I'm apparently an incompetent home owner! What other things am I probably doing wrong?)
I've replaced a few water heaters in my lifetime and this yearly draining thing is the first time I've ever heard of it. And just how are we homeowners supposed to drain a tank, drag a garden hose into the house, wait for the tank to cool, disconnect the inlet line and drain the water into the yard? Seems inconvenient. I'd like to see this done in high rise apartments. There'd be a lot of hoses hanging out windows.lol In my day it was said to never open drain valves unless absolutely necessary. Or else you'll end up with a leaky valve, like one of the commenters here. If yearly draining was true then there'd be a convenient way to do it like an added drain line to the water heater drain valve (when building a home) in the first place and maybe even instructions somewhere, say like on the water heater itself. Hmm! Me no think Matt is so right. Nor Bob Villa.
I have fushed my tank maybe two or three times in 24 years. Everything still works. It does have one of those weak plastic valves, so I don't flush anymore out of fear it will break.
Steve Simpson are you living in the US? Every tank heater has a drain at the bottom of the tank. Yes you connect a garden hose to the tank. Most tanks are elevated now so draining is convenient to a nearby plumbing device. My tank is in my garage and can drain right outside.
Mechanical rooms where these tanks are installed usually have a floor drain in case of any leaks- also a place to drain the tank or heating system, that’s why u don’t see ppl in condos with hoses sticking out there window
@@alexnelson09 what do you mean most are elevated? You are nuts. They are not.
Everyone in our area has sulfur gas in the water...I heard there is an anode rod specifically for that....what would that be...also...getting ready to remodel most of the house...what is a good way to re-plumb so the sulfur gas does not eat out any metal pipes or brass connections like used in pex...?
Look into electric anodes. I also hear of zinc for that purpose. Why every tank doesn't have an electric anode? They'd sell a lot fewer tanks because they wouldn't corrode.
Bradford White or Reem?
Is Gas or Electric Water Heater Better?
After getting a new water heater, it brings water across the house way faster and it's much hotter even at a medium setting. I'm gonna flush it every 6 months now after seeing how much crap can be in one. We only flushed the old one once haha
thanks for this Matt, not sure what things are like in texas but here in Toledo Ohio the HVAC industry and unions heavily controls the distributors and therefore it can be difficult as a DIYer to purchase the "good stuff" we are usually stuck with whatever the box stores offer. Any tips on how to buy the more professional type products?
Drive a pickup to another state for your purchase.
@@mstexas It's kinda the whole industry. HVAC protects themselves and keeps consumers from getting their hands on replacement parts even.
Thanks for the tip.
Rheem says they should last over 30 years if you do regular maintenance including anode swaps every 3 to 5 years.
You are so Welcome Brotha Risinger!!!
Ooaugh....
USAF!!!
🇺🇸🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸 🇺🇸
Do these tips also apply to electric units?
You rock! Thanks for all the Awesome tips.
Matt, love your channel. What about gas tankless water heaters compared to tanks? What’s your experience with them?
I have a 75 gallon AO Smith gas water heater installed 1994 in NYC 2 family house. Periodically I ran water from the water heater spigot until it ran clear in a bucket. But now I’m seeing rust accumulate on top of the water tank around the center opening and around a water pipe. So I’ve been lucky with this tanks lifespan. I just want to replace it with a reputable name brand that can handle washer machine & 4 floors of full showers/tub and toilets. Any suggestions?!!
Can you just add a 2nd anode to your new or existing water heater? Or can you only do that to certain ones?
I have that exact 40 gallon tank👍
I have 48 gallon Bradford white natural gas ,, it’s leaking now about a cup a day any idea how much I’m looking at for a replacement
We need a 40
Plumber wanted $800 for install 😂😂😂
Amazing country Rheem made in Mexico
Any tips for buying a new electric water heater?
I'll be installing a free (rebate from gov) heat pump to replace gas heater. Is there anything wrong with keeping the gas unit in the water plumbing line compared to disconnecting and leaving it sit dry. I may want to switch back to gas? The reviews aren't so good with the heat pump units and am expecting it to die sooner than later. But it's free and I have solar panels.
can I put an extra tube in our Bradford White that we had installed today?
My water heater was really cool. It could self drain 50 gallons into my basement😂