Turned out very nice, love the pendant. Makes me want to make smaller hair beads with it. Everytime I see your forging/casting videos it reminds me why I found you so long ago. Still don't have space for any set up, but you do great work.
Hey Vogman, I’m brand new to 3d printing, and I just bought the mars 5 ultra and can’t even get a basic calibration matrix or cones of calibration to adhere to the build plate. Every print just sticks to the FEP. Its winter here in Aus so I’m using a fermentation band to keep the resin warm. But other than that, I can’t figure out the issue. I can’t try and see if the plate isn’t preoperly level as the machine is supposedly self leveling. Are there any other factors that could be leading the first layers of resin to stick to the FEP instead of the build plate? Any help would be hugely appreciated!! Thanks :)
I begin button down to allow wax to flow out. After the hottest part of the cycle, when the temperature is programmed to begin ramping down, that's when I rotate to button up, allow any trapped gasses to escape. 😁
is sure has a price tag on it, but this was a great demonstration, why it's worth it. and for jewlery, a kilo goes a long way. i'd love to see this being pushed to the limits, and see just how lacy and delicate structures still cast properly. PS: it's a very old scool thing, but i've seen incredible results on bigger but very complex lost PLA castings in bonze, brass,.copper and aluminium, using sifted play sand with ~5% bentonite clay as a binder. the magic is, that it's porous enough, the you really dont need air vents. mayhaps keep that in mind for some future vid.
Welcome! I believe (though I could be wrong) that I was the first UA-camr to introduce Castable Resins, so I've got a few reviews under my belt. This link should take you to a playlist studio.ua-cam.com/users/playlistPLOzaysTbaKi4bt4yl3WQI6rymVLknpEAG/edit?o=U Any problems or questions, please ask. I'll try my best to help 😁
Great video as usual, my friend. I wonder how is this resin compared to the Bluecast X-one? Price and quality wise. As far as user friendly, it seems a bit simpler.
Recently purchased their Dark Resin product , had amazing results the first few times however i’ve been having trouble with failed prints due to adhesion problems , got any quick fixes for that ?
Generally if I have adhesion issues I increase the raft size, increase the number of base layers, increase the base layer exposure time, and half the base lift speed. This usually does the trick. I hope it helps you. 😁
you know what I think it would be nice, if instead of printing in wax resin print a mold using normal cheap resin to fill with cheaper casting wax, know what I mean? would that be cheaper and more repeatable for entry level people?
I've experimented briefly with moulds and wax injections, but I can't pretend it's my thing. More skill is needed than I posses. But if folks are interested I'll always revisit it. 😁
@@vogmanI’m the other way around. I do a lot of silicone molds and casting resins. But have been trying to get around to focusing and trying lost print metal casting
No.... as I made this for a friend, it doesn't seem right to sell it. But it is available for all my Patron, even the Free Membership Patrons (or will be in a couple of days). So if you fancy that idea... www.patreon.com/vegoilguy
Hello, I used the parameters provided by the power resins page for the elegoo mars 4 ultra 9k and they did not work. I think too much lifting and retraction speed.
This looks lovely! It came out great, Could you maybe share what layer thickness you where using? I am 0.05 now, I forgot to activate the antialassing blur in my last print and now I have loads of rings with small layer that I could not see on real life. Thanks for the video! You are my favourite youtuber right now!
Great video Geoff!!! I was wondering if you have tryied Power Resins Vintage with the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra? I've been trying for a few days but I can't get any good prints, they don't fully stick to the build plate 😅 Thank you very much in advance!
No I haven't. PR's often have sticking issues from my experience. You have to really increase the burn in time, often 90+ secs, and reduce the burn in lift speed. This will get you there.
Great designs and a super result Geoff! I've had to decommission my LPG powered furnace as it sorta didn't survive the last move. It was a home made jobby, using an old 9kg LPG cylinder. I finally got around to cracking open an old (1972) 45kg LPG cylinder. I then filled it with water and detergent and washed it out a few times. I was going to use it for all my casting projects, but after watching you for a while now, I think I have to change strategy. The big LPG cylinder will make a good size furnace for larger projects like plaques etc. But, for smaller parts and jewellery size projects it's just too big. Too much area to heat a small crucible efficiently. I've been looking at the electric one's, similar to yours, but they are roughly A$450+ and the prices just increase until you get into the professional jewellers units that cost thousands. But, I'm also toying with the idea of setting up a microwave furnace. I already have some light weight insulating bricks to make the chamber. So, we'll see.
I have only one thing to say -F**K EVERYONE WHO DOESNT REDUCE THE VOLUME ON VIDEO WHEN IT SHOWS ULTRASONIC CLEANER OR ANGLE GRINDER! Thank you for spearing our ear drums.
Turned out very nice, love the pendant. Makes me want to make smaller hair beads with it.
Everytime I see your forging/casting videos it reminds me why I found you so long ago. Still don't have space for any set up, but you do great work.
Thank you! Cheers!
When you said "This bottle of resin costs $300" I passed out so I couldn't watch the whole video
Yes, they are at the top dogs in their field.
Hey Vogman, I’m brand new to 3d printing, and I just bought the mars 5 ultra and can’t even get a basic calibration matrix or cones of calibration to adhere to the build plate.
Every print just sticks to the FEP.
Its winter here in Aus so I’m using a fermentation band to keep the resin warm. But other than that, I can’t figure out the issue. I can’t try and see if the plate isn’t preoperly level as the machine is supposedly self leveling.
Are there any other factors that could be leading the first layers of resin to stick to the FEP instead of the build plate?
Any help would be hugely appreciated!!
Thanks :)
Great job
Just a question
Do you rotare , button side up after an hour 150 grades?
When do you rotare again and put button down?
Many thanks
I begin button down to allow wax to flow out. After the hottest part of the cycle, when the temperature is programmed to begin ramping down, that's when I rotate to button up, allow any trapped gasses to escape. 😁
is sure has a price tag on it, but this was a great demonstration, why it's worth it. and for jewlery, a kilo goes a long way.
i'd love to see this being pushed to the limits, and see just how lacy and delicate structures still cast properly.
PS: it's a very old scool thing, but i've seen incredible results on bigger but very complex lost PLA castings in bonze, brass,.copper and aluminium, using sifted play sand with ~5% bentonite clay as a binder. the magic is, that it's porous enough, the you really dont need air vents. mayhaps keep that in mind for some future vid.
thanks :) did you start with cylinder button down and rotate it to button up like an hour before casting?
Great work once again Mr Vogman. Great raven designs, too.
Glad you like them!
Nice video. I was just looking for castable resin so it was a perfect timing. Thanks! New subscriber.
Welcome! I believe (though I could be wrong) that I was the first UA-camr to introduce Castable Resins, so I've got a few reviews under my belt. This link should take you to a playlist studio.ua-cam.com/users/playlistPLOzaysTbaKi4bt4yl3WQI6rymVLknpEAG/edit?o=U
Any problems or questions, please ask. I'll try my best to help 😁
Great video as usual, my friend. I wonder how is this resin compared to the Bluecast X-one? Price and quality wise. As far as user friendly, it seems a bit simpler.
How does the mold get vaccume when you pouring the molten metal you vaccumed when casting to get rid of all the air bubble out right
Your video format is great. Could you do a start to finish guide on making crystal clear prints? Pretty please :)
Recently purchased their Dark Resin product , had amazing results the first few times however i’ve been having trouble with failed prints due to adhesion problems , got any quick fixes for that ?
Generally if I have adhesion issues I increase the raft size, increase the number of base layers, increase the base layer exposure time, and half the base lift speed. This usually does the trick. I hope it helps you. 😁
Same issue
you know what I think it would be nice, if instead of printing in wax resin print a mold using normal cheap resin to fill with cheaper casting wax, know what I mean? would that be cheaper and more repeatable for entry level people?
OFC i know not all designs are possible to make molds from ...
I've experimented briefly with moulds and wax injections, but I can't pretend it's my thing. More skill is needed than I posses. But if folks are interested I'll always revisit it. 😁
@@vogmanI’m the other way around. I do a lot of silicone molds and casting resins. But have been trying to get around to focusing and trying lost print metal casting
How would you get the wax out of the mold? Break the resin?
Another great video! Informative and entertaining as always!
I appreciate that. Many thanks 😁
That raven skull sculpt is A+
Many thanks 😁
Of the castable resins you've tested to this point which is the best in terms of price/performance?
Which one do you think is better? Blue cast x10 or Vintage resin?
Another great video! I would love to get the STL for the raven will it become available on your Etsy store soon?
No.... as I made this for a friend, it doesn't seem right to sell it. But it is available for all my Patron, even the Free Membership Patrons (or will be in a couple of days). So if you fancy that idea... www.patreon.com/vegoilguy
Hello, I used the parameters provided by the power resins page for the elegoo mars 4 ultra 9k and they did not work. I think too much lifting and retraction speed.
The settings should only be considered a "guide" as every printer varies. But slower lift speeds can really help.
This looks lovely!
It came out great, Could you maybe share what layer thickness you where using?
I am 0.05 now, I forgot to activate the antialassing blur in my last print and now I have loads of rings with small layer that I could not see on real life.
Thanks for the video! You are my favourite youtuber right now!
I tend to go at .03 with full aa for fine pieces. My settings are in the video 😁
Look at 4:08 😁
Great video Geoff!!!
I was wondering if you have tryied Power Resins Vintage with the Elegoo Mars 4 Ultra?
I've been trying for a few days but I can't get any good prints, they don't fully stick to the build plate 😅
Thank you very much in advance!
No I haven't. PR's often have sticking issues from my experience. You have to really increase the burn in time, often 90+ secs, and reduce the burn in lift speed. This will get you there.
Hi Geoff! Thank you very much for your reply , for help us newbies and for your amazing content!
I'll keep trying 😁
how much resin did you use for printing the above raven jewelrys? Could be interesting to know how much it cost in resin to make them.
I think is was approx 4ml of resin for these two items 😁
So interesting. Thank you VogMan! ✨✨✨
Glad you enjoyed it 😁😁😁
Will you be reviewing the new Saturn 4 Ultra by Elegoo soon?
Yes. Very soon.
Great designs and a super result Geoff! I've had to decommission my LPG powered furnace as it sorta didn't survive the last move. It was a home made jobby, using an old 9kg LPG cylinder. I finally got around to cracking open an old (1972) 45kg LPG cylinder. I then filled it with water and detergent and washed it out a few times. I was going to use it for all my casting projects, but after watching you for a while now, I think I have to change strategy.
The big LPG cylinder will make a good size furnace for larger projects like plaques etc. But, for smaller parts and jewellery size projects it's just too big. Too much area to heat a small crucible efficiently. I've been looking at the electric one's, similar to yours, but they are roughly A$450+ and the prices just increase until you get into the professional jewellers units that cost thousands. But, I'm also toying with the idea of setting up a microwave furnace. I already have some light weight insulating bricks to make the chamber. So, we'll see.
Sounds like a fun project buddy 😁
another reliable awsome video bigus maximus vogius
Manyus Thanksius 😁😁😁
less then 1% shrinkage is impressive but why did you not do test to measure this.
Nice review.
Thanks 😁
Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching
I have only one thing to say -F**K EVERYONE WHO DOESNT REDUCE THE VOLUME ON VIDEO WHEN IT SHOWS ULTRASONIC CLEANER OR ANGLE GRINDER! Thank you for spearing our ear drums.
That’s expensive resin!!!
Yes. Power Resins are the Ferrari of castable resins.