Desoldering is an art in its self. To much heat can ruin the components But my question is why not use flux instead of solder Is it better or cheaper Also to say heat sinks are a good selvige item
I use enameled wire from salvaged transformers to solder jumpers and repair traces it's very useful tbh just few days ago i repaired the whole flex cable of the nintendo switch lite screen i used the enamled wire for some traces that were making short circuit with each others, do you test the salvaged electrolytic capacitors with your esr meter? i ordered one but got the m6013 version instead it has an esr function tho i will get another mesr-100 i believe it's useful for vrm short as you demonstrated it in one of your videos, through hole components are fun to desolder but sometimes it's hard to use the desoldering pump in narrow spaces and the result is not always clean i believe a desoldering station is very necessary the thing is that you need so many tools for electronic repair and they're not that cheap
56:40 The ISSI chips are common 256kbit (32kB x8-bit) static rams in SOJ28 package.... very commonly found on many arcade boards, but possibly commonly used in other devices too. The RCT can test them with the correct adapter.... but pro tip... don't even try to use rams in unknown condition without testing them. It's highly possible that thing you have there failed due to these rams going bad and may even be fixable just by replacing them :-)
Heya, I love to desolder componments there are so many kinds of them like you said with does HDMI and USB connectors oh yeah I have them but not that exact one that's why you have to have as much components that you can store
wish i knew what that tiny diode @ 50:30 is called and how standard it is, one of my Blue Yetti's had the plug tips short and one of those is burnt need to get my head around electronics
You might want to try one of the solder alloy products when attempting multi pin ICs. "Chip-Quik" is a great brand. If there is a hidden GND pin under the IC then hot-air or under IR is likely the best options.
Chio-Quik is useful in some cqases, I would say for salvage purposes it is too expensive. I made a video ChipQuik vs 37/63 leaded solder for desoldering ICs and connectors. The results may surprise you ua-cam.com/video/Uq_BrGY4Imo/v-deo.html
Perhaps you could use an iron and thus heat the whole PCB and remove all the components at once, for salvage, of course. .... I haven't tried it, but I think it would work. You can even make a kind of stove with a thermostat Edit: Is done before I start thinking at that 😂. ua-cam.com/video/b-Dxnh5nbzY/v-deo.htmlsi=X9-c4l3Hq7j4UTih
Quite right indeed. The 25Lxxx series are SPI serial flash chips. The MX25Lxxx are in this case made by Macronix. (Yes, they are not EEPROM. But close enough!)
Love the video's, cant afford to contribute financially to the channel at the moment because ive lost my livelihood recently due to illness.. Anyway I'm repairng a mixing desk PSU . Big Soundcraft one. It has various differing voltages that supply a console. On this one a diode in one of the bridge rectifiers has shorted causing it to blow the 5A fuse that protects the 17V output circuit. Its marked as a MR 752 but I'm unsure of the best rating to order. Will it matter if its different from the other 3 as I have no idea of their rating. Fuse rating - 5A Transformer supply voltage 19.5V Any ideas anyone ? I need to get it fixed and the desk sold to help with the bills 😮 Many thanks in advance John ( Nottingham)
Hi Richard, not sure if you’re still living in Gran Canaria. I’m a huge fan and i am from Gran Canaria and i live here. I am trying to fix a honda motorcycle cluster which started failing and i am looking forward to try to solve the problem, could you contact me or give me a way to contact you?
I tried that with a chunky inductor, the ferrite bar dropped out once the glue tying it to the coil melted. I have great difficulty in removing THT components from my old computer motherboard, even after pre-heating the thing with hot air. My soldering iron is a 60W JBC-245 compatible iron (Sequre S99) which normally works great, even with relatively big ground planes.
@@LarixusSnydes That is a good soldering iron, I reviewed it. Do get yourself a chunky C245 BC3 type tip for it and make sure it is the 2.5ohm type tip not 5.5ohm. Add some good quality leaded solder when desoldering, and power the S99 from a psu capable of 10A 21V. I used my bench power supply to do this and connected leads from the psu to that HT60 connector lead that comes with the S99. On the livestream about a month ago I also demonstrated this using a cheap 24V 10A PSU from Aliexpress. The PSU has an output that you can adjust a little bit with a trimmer pot that is near the power out connector (it is a output fixed PSU) and I turned it down to 21V. The S99 worked like a dream then, much more powerful than with 5.5ohm tips and the supplied 65W PSU. This is the type of power supply I used. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007052037279.html?af=ler2022 Here is the video I made about the S99 using other power supplies ua-cam.com/video/4Ime81KnuJQ/v-deo.html
It would be nice to explain how later on you catallogue all these.....i need to get some ideas. Thank you in advance, Richard.
OK I will make a video on that topic
It'll come in handy even if you never use it.😁
good video thank you
Desoldering is an art in its self. To much heat can ruin the components
But my question is why not use flux instead of solder
Is it better or cheaper
Also to say heat sinks are a good selvige item
Hi Richard. I think the 24c02 devices are eeprom's, great video
Yeah anything with that type of number 24c... 25c... 24q... 25q... and similar are almost certainly serial i2c eproms
I use enameled wire from salvaged transformers to solder jumpers and repair traces it's very useful tbh just few days ago i repaired the whole flex cable of the nintendo switch lite screen i used the enamled wire for some traces that were making short circuit with each others, do you test the salvaged electrolytic capacitors with your esr meter? i ordered one but got the m6013 version instead it has an esr function tho i will get another mesr-100 i believe it's useful for vrm short as you demonstrated it in one of your videos, through hole components are fun to desolder but sometimes it's hard to use the desoldering pump in narrow spaces and the result is not always clean i believe a desoldering station is very necessary the thing is that you need so many tools for electronic repair and they're not that cheap
56:40 The ISSI chips are common 256kbit (32kB x8-bit) static rams in SOJ28 package.... very commonly found on many arcade boards, but possibly commonly used in other devices too. The RCT can test them with the correct adapter.... but pro tip... don't even try to use rams in unknown condition without testing them. It's highly possible that thing you have there failed due to these rams going bad and may even be fixable just by replacing them :-)
Heya, I love to desolder componments there are so many kinds of them like you said with does HDMI and USB connectors oh yeah I have them but not that exact one that's why you have to have as much components that you can store
Yeah I find it therapuetic
wish i knew what that tiny diode @ 50:30 is called and how standard it is, one of my Blue Yetti's had the plug tips short and one of those is burnt
need to get my head around electronics
You might want to try one of the solder alloy products when attempting multi pin ICs. "Chip-Quik" is a great brand. If there is a hidden GND pin under the IC then hot-air or under IR is likely the best options.
Chio-Quik is useful in some cqases, I would say for salvage purposes it is too expensive. I made a video ChipQuik vs 37/63 leaded solder for desoldering ICs and connectors. The results may surprise you ua-cam.com/video/Uq_BrGY4Imo/v-deo.html
Some of the capacitor sizes are insane to me
Perhaps you could use an iron and thus heat the whole PCB and remove all the components at once, for salvage, of course. .... I haven't tried it, but I think it would work. You can even make a kind of stove with a thermostat
Edit: Is done before I start thinking at that 😂. ua-cam.com/video/b-Dxnh5nbzY/v-deo.htmlsi=X9-c4l3Hq7j4UTih
0:03 Richard,, this is Gold not scrap😳😳
Its make many fun to grab and desolder spare parts.🥳🥳😻
51:39 you mean eeprom right? not mosfets
Quite right indeed. The 25Lxxx series are SPI serial flash chips. The MX25Lxxx are in this case made by Macronix. (Yes, they are not EEPROM. But close enough!)
Sorry yes I did
Love the video's, cant afford to contribute financially to the channel at the moment because ive lost my livelihood recently due to illness..
Anyway I'm repairng a mixing desk PSU . Big Soundcraft one. It has various differing voltages that supply a console. On this one a diode in one of the bridge rectifiers has shorted causing it to blow the 5A fuse that protects the 17V output circuit. Its marked as a MR 752 but I'm unsure of the best rating to order. Will it matter if its different from the other 3 as I have no idea of their rating.
Fuse rating - 5A
Transformer supply voltage 19.5V
Any ideas anyone ? I need to get it fixed and the desk sold to help with the bills 😮
Many thanks in advance
John ( Nottingham)
Hi Richard, not sure if you’re still living in Gran Canaria. I’m a huge fan and i am from Gran Canaria and i live here. I am trying to fix a honda motorcycle cluster which started failing and i am looking forward to try to solve the problem, could you contact me or give me a way to contact you?
To remove the components, I will definitely use Hot air, not the solder iron
I tried that with a chunky inductor, the ferrite bar dropped out once the glue tying it to the coil melted. I have great difficulty in removing THT components from my old computer motherboard, even after pre-heating the thing with hot air. My soldering iron is a 60W JBC-245 compatible iron (Sequre S99) which normally works great, even with relatively big ground planes.
@@LarixusSnydes That is a good soldering iron, I reviewed it. Do get yourself a chunky C245 BC3 type tip for it and make sure it is the 2.5ohm type tip not 5.5ohm. Add some good quality leaded solder when desoldering, and power the S99 from a psu capable of 10A 21V. I used my bench power supply to do this and connected leads from the psu to that HT60 connector lead that comes with the S99. On the livestream about a month ago I also demonstrated this using a cheap 24V 10A PSU from Aliexpress. The PSU has an output that you can adjust a little bit with a trimmer pot that is near the power out connector (it is a output fixed PSU) and I turned it down to 21V. The S99 worked like a dream then, much more powerful than with 5.5ohm tips and the supplied 65W PSU. This is the type of power supply I used. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007052037279.html?af=ler2022 Here is the video I made about the S99 using other power supplies ua-cam.com/video/4Ime81KnuJQ/v-deo.html