Great videos of the testing of them. I imagine if someone doesn't have the power supply could they rig up a 5v dc battery with leads and connect it.? Seems like a short term testing solution.
Yes absolutely, main benefit to the bench power supply is you can accurately control the current. If i didn't have that, i'd probably butcher a USB lead and use a phone charger type power supply as USB is 5vdc too.
@@whitefeatherslinger8194 yeah you’ll struggle to get one out without breaking it. That’s a good thing though really as you want them to be in there solidly with no chance of moving. If you replace it I’d dab a bit of superglue on it to keep it in place.
Can you show the symptoms of the engine leading you to change hall sensor,i think there is big confusion when you order misfitting controller and throttle and have the same symptoms
i have a 1000 watt front hub motor and it started vibrating, rapid pulsing, like it was single phasing, i had a open motor lead act similar, but this one also gives my controller a 03 error, motor wiring problem, have mine out and apart like his, i have no board, just sensors mounted like his and straight to the wires leading back to the controller, so the symptom was vibrating motor operation until the 03 error then shut off.
Are there hall sensors that don't switch by approaching a magnet to it? It's a lexgo motor, but it looks identical as Xiaomi motor. Three hall sensors - none gets 5 volts out. I applied 5V from a regulated power supply. Have multiple magnets, turn them different ways but always have 0 on pin 3 on all sensors. Please light up who dealt with hall sensors. Thank you.
How strong should be the magnets? I tried many magnets, but I can't get none of the 3 hall sensors to switch to 5 v. Input is 4V coming from the controller. I can't believe all 3 sensor are bad.
Silly question... Shouldn't the sensors have to be on or off in some specific order/sequence? Say if u turn them all on or off by placing on magnet, and now u assemble everything back together will will they reset themselves back in to correct on or off state?
The hall sensor only tells you which magnetic field he is/was sensing. So when you assemble everything and you rotate the motor then you rotate the magnets. They pass by the hall sensor and then the hall sensor tells the controller the orientation of the magnets in the motor. No need to "set" them before assembly
probably could but his test is so much better for active switching, i am pleased to see this simple test, I'm just going to plug my controller wiring back in no need for a separate power supply
some controllers are programmed, or wired, to run either ,with or without, hall sensors, I'd be interested in trying that. which specific controller did you get?
@@12villages That's maybe because they are the only component inside a hub motor, but from my experience the only real problems i've seen has been from water or physical damage. I'm sure they do fail but if you look at the work they are doing in a wheel travelling at 50mph it's immense!
I don’t have a fancy adjustable power supply. Can I feed it a 5V/1A from USB charger or is that going to be too much? Great video btw. Possibly the best I found on YT on hall sensors
Thanks your kind comment. Really appreciate it. Yes absolutely feed it a 5v supply from a plug in adapter. That’s actually how I built my tester with just a cheap 1amp supply 👍🏻
Hello, Could you please give me the reference of this kind of hall sensor ? + Are you using the same on all 3 sensors ? I've seen that the middle one is different on few boards. Thanks :)
I've never bought new Hall sensors I just take them out of old broken motors. They'll all the same they are switches will turn on and off they all do the same thing. I only done one yesterday form old 350w hoverboard motor in to a 1000w hub motor.
@@scottrocks1993 Me too but it wasn't much fun to start taking apart old motors, some chips are bad, others break when you pull them, I just ordered some from Ali, they are cheap and should save a lot of time on new builds.
thank you, i have one bad one and watching this helps me bench testing before install, thank you
Awesome video mate. Thanks. Please continue to post this type of stuff.
Great videos of the testing of them. I imagine if someone doesn't have the power supply could they rig up a 5v dc battery with leads and connect it.? Seems like a short term testing solution.
Yes absolutely, main benefit to the bench power supply is you can accurately control the current. If i didn't have that, i'd probably butcher a USB lead and use a phone charger type power supply as USB is 5vdc too.
Brilliant ive broke a sensor trying to get it out ,are they suppose to be glued or soldered in ? Im waiting on a new board
@@whitefeatherslinger8194 yeah you’ll struggle to get one out without breaking it. That’s a good thing though really as you want them to be in there solidly with no chance of moving. If you replace it I’d dab a bit of superglue on it to keep it in place.
@@AndySV1K thanks ill check back when ive it done just on my way to sub 👍
Can you show the symptoms of the engine leading you to change hall sensor,i think there is big confusion when you order misfitting controller and throttle and have the same symptoms
i have a 1000 watt front hub motor and it started vibrating, rapid pulsing, like it was single phasing, i had a open motor lead act similar, but this one also gives my controller a 03 error, motor wiring problem, have mine out and apart like his, i have no board, just sensors mounted like his and straight to the wires leading back to the controller, so the symptom was vibrating motor operation until the 03 error then shut off.
Are there hall sensors that don't switch by approaching a magnet to it? It's a lexgo motor, but it looks identical as Xiaomi motor. Three hall sensors - none gets 5 volts out. I applied 5V from a regulated power supply. Have multiple magnets, turn them different ways but always have 0 on pin 3 on all sensors. Please light up who dealt with hall sensors. Thank you.
Excellent video, the best one I could find on YT up to now. Thanks a lot!
Is that a Shermax stator, buddy? :)
Yes, it is 👍🏻
How strong should be the magnets? I tried many magnets, but I can't get none of the 3 hall sensors to switch to 5 v. Input is 4V coming from the controller. I can't believe all 3 sensor are bad.
You have to turn the magnet around
Can I somehow test whether it's my controller before I disassemble my motor?
I think I saw a spark on the controller before the vibrations started
Silly question...
Shouldn't the sensors have to be on or off in some specific order/sequence? Say if u turn them all on or off by placing on magnet, and now u assemble everything back together will will they reset themselves back in to correct on or off state?
The hall sensor only tells you which magnetic field he is/was sensing. So when you assemble everything and you rotate the motor then you rotate the magnets. They pass by the hall sensor and then the hall sensor tells the controller the orientation of the magnets in the motor. No need to "set" them before assembly
Very clear
Can’t you test it with diode setting on multimeter ? I don’t have a variable power supply
probably could but his test is so much better for active switching, i am pleased to see this simple test, I'm just going to plug my controller wiring back in no need for a separate power supply
i switched my ninebot controller to a genereic e-bike controller. Why its working without connected hall sensors now? and how? ^^
some controllers are programmed, or wired, to run either ,with or without, hall sensors, I'd be interested in trying that. which specific controller did you get?
Hvala !
Why do they keep going bad?
This was me damaging it. I've hardly ever seen a hall sensor fail on it's own, they are incredibly reliable components.
@@AndySV1K Search hub motor repair on yt. They're almost entirely on hall sensor replacement.
@@12villages That's maybe because they are the only component inside a hub motor, but from my experience the only real problems i've seen has been from water or physical damage. I'm sure they do fail but if you look at the work they are doing in a wheel travelling at 50mph it's immense!
I don’t have a fancy adjustable power supply. Can I feed it a 5V/1A from USB charger or is that going to be too much? Great video btw. Possibly the best I found on YT on hall sensors
Thanks your kind comment. Really appreciate it. Yes absolutely feed it a 5v supply from a plug in adapter. That’s actually how I built my tester with just a cheap 1amp supply 👍🏻
@@AndySV1K thank you! Subscribed and waiting for the next vid!
Hello,
Could you please give me the reference of this kind of hall sensor ?
+ Are you using the same on all 3 sensors ?
I've seen that the middle one is different on few boards.
Thanks :)
Get a bunch of "Honeywell SS41" same chip on all 3 of them.
I've never bought new Hall sensors I just take them out of old broken motors.
They'll all the same they are switches will turn on and off they all do the same thing.
I only done one yesterday form old 350w hoverboard motor in to a 1000w hub motor.
@@scottrocks1993 Me too but it wasn't much fun to start taking apart old motors, some chips are bad, others break when you pull them, I just ordered some from Ali, they are cheap and should save a lot of time on new builds.
do u know why didn’t working all sensor on some bldc motor ? its very wired sensor work same but only some special number sensor work with bldc motor.
@@aatmasoul9508 You need bipolar hall sensors. ss41 for example.
😮
simple reed switch nothing more 44E 402
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