Memnun oldum sevgili Refik. Sizden yorum aldığımda her zaman mutlu oluyorum çünkü benim gibi tembel değildiniz ve teorik videolarımı pratik hale getirip bilgilerimi başkalarıyla paylaştınız. Sadece videonun keyfini çıkarın ve en iyi dileklerimle ve "Iyi Bencukular", IcaFyM
Thank you from Ireland! Your guide is the only one I could find for my car on the Internet! I have a 1990 230e, no pin 3, no cat, no maf, no O2 sensor. Does turning the mixture adjustment screw on 'no pin 3' models still alter the mixture? Unfortunately mine was messed with and I'm hoping your clever EHA adjustment will correct things. Great work, love your videos!
Maestro sería una tremenda clase este video si UD lo hiciera en español cuando tenga la bonda y el tiempo adecuado se lo agradecería toda la comunidad en español que siempre lo seguimos gracias
In this video learn how to set your mixture if you don't have pin number 3 on your X11 port. In general, this is the way how to set your mixture on the EHA, it's a better way because you can directly observe what happens as the ECU sends current to the EHA after processing all the data from the sensors. These data go directly to the EHA and ICV. The EHA then "manipulates" the differential pressure in a friction of a second depending on the engine load whether the fuel flow should be cut-off, enriched or decreased. That's why you need to observe these phases directly on the EHA as the "magic happens". Four phases are common for all KE models of Mercedes. The rest of them you can obtain either on the internet or you can ask me for a small fee if you want to follow your car throughout all the phases of the engine load. Enjoy the video, Happy Mercedesing!
Hi Ivica, I hope you are well. I followed your instruction on this video for 1986 - 190e - 2.3 with cat, and I have 0 ma (ZERO) for all 4 stages. except at stage 3, I have 0.9volts. I checked it again with another multimeter, the same values. Any suggestion on where the problem is? I changed the computer, no difference. Thanks
@@henrysalem5516 If you get 0mA on ignition on then it's either the ECU or the EHA - check the continuity on the wires of the EHA. If you don't get 19.5ohm on ignition off on the EHA, then the EHA is the culprit.If you get 11-13V on ignition on but you don't get the mAmps then it's the ECU. Either the Ecu or the EHA.
@@mercedeske Hi Ivica, Thank you for your response. I followed your steps: - The EHA wires continuity is OK. - The EHA Ohm was 18.3 and changed it to new EHA, with 19.8 Ohms. - At ignition on, I get 140mA, I changed the ECM, again the same value of 140mA, instead of 20ma. - I disconnected the fuel pump relay, still 140ma. I don't know where the problem could be. Thanks
Sería muy bueno si lo pudiera hacer en español cuando tenga la posibilidad , o si puede hacer uno de la suichera q es bastante interesante , como x ejemplo el inyector principal para prender tiene alguna relación con la suichera xq cuando pasa la suichera ella inyecta gasolina.
Hi Ivica I really like your Videos and I've just become a member. I suffer from a rough idle problem but he car is perfect when driving. I've just did your EHA test and got the following results. Ignition on Engine off = 9.7milliamps. Engine on 80c = 1.5milliamps. At 2500revs at 80c = minus 2 milliamps. I've replaced the HT System, Injectors, Potentiometer and much more but still have the issue. Compression is very good on all cylinders. Fuel pressure is 5 bars and 5.4 bars (valve open). Vacuum gauge is not fully to the left on idle. Vacuum pressure slightly flickers at between 14/15Hg. I'm running out of ideas. Could you please point me in the right direction? Cheers
Hi, my man and thanks for becoming the Supporter. Concerning the EHA you have excellent readings. Was your car 300E without catalyst? As far as I know 14/15Hg is a good value. The next thing would be to measure the voltage on your ICV - it should be 4-6.5V. Check all the contacts on your ECU connector if you have continuity and voltage(11-13V). Check the contacts 1(power supply),2,7(internal ground) and 20(main ground from the battery). Check the contacts 1 on your ECU connector and 87E on your OVP connector(OVP removed). Check the potentiometer for continuity and check the contacts 87L(OVP) and the blue/red lead(ICV) to see if you have power supply. Check all the contacts on the ECU connector for continuity, you have that on my instagram page. Check all the sensors, that's what you can see on the channel as the member. That's it for now. Greetings and thanks once again.
HI..I WROTE TO YOU A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO FOR HELP WITH ROUGH IDLE, RIGHT FROM THE MOMENT YOU TURN THE CAR ON, ON A M103 ENGINE WITH SIX CYLINDERS. I THOUGH IT WAS THE ICV SINCE THE OUTPUT VOLTAGE TO IT IS 2V BUT RECENTLY THE PROBLEM GOT WORSE .THE ENGINE WOULD JUST DIE THE MOMENT YOU WENT FROM PARK TO DRIVE. SO I WOULD TURN THE CAR ON AND IT IMMEDIATELY WOULD START TO SURGE, THE IDLE WOULD GO UP AND DOWN..UP AND DOWN..THEN I WOULD PUT IT IN DRIVE AND THE CAR WOULD JUST DIE...SO I DECIDED TO DISCONNECT THE IDLE CONTROL SWITCH WHILE THE CAR WAS AT RUNNING TEMPERATURE AND THE IDLE WENT UP TO ABOUT 1500 RPM AND THAN WENT I PUT IN DRIVE THE IDLE WENT DOWN TO 900 RPM...A STABLE IDLE..AND I CAN DRIVE IT AND IT DOESN'T DIE UNLIKE WHEN THE IDLE SWITCH IS CONNECTED...R U FAMILIAR WITH THE IDLE CONTROL SWITCH? AND WHAT IT'S FUNCTION IS?..WHY IS IT THAT WHEN IT'S CONNECTED THE IDLE SURGES BAD AND THE CAR DIES WHEN YOU PUT IT IN DRIVE?...BUT WHEN IT'S DISCONNECTED THE REVS GO UP AND THE CAR DRIVES FINE?...ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED..THANKS.
If when you disconnect the icv and the idle goes up then you have vacuum leaks somewhere because 1500RPM on idle is too much. So I would recommend you to check for the vacuum leaks and first. As for the idle it works this way - the icv works as the ecu tells it. At first check for the continuity between the ecu and the icv. The red/white wire is the one that goes to the ecu and as for the pin, I must check which one is connected to the icv for m103(check pin 3 at the connector for the ecu). The ecu works the way sensors tell it so good sensors are a MUST for a good idle. Check also the continuity between the contacts 87L at the connector of the OVP and pin1 at the connector of the ecu(voltage supply). The whole mechanical part of the system must be also good functioning. That much I can tell.
@@mercedeske I HAVE CHECK FOR VACUUM LEAKS AND I HAVE SEAL EVERYTHING I COULD INCLUDING THE TOP OF THE INJECTORS WITH GASKET MAKING SEALANT. I HAVE ALSO REPLACE THE TWO VACUUM HOSES THAT CONNECT TO THE ICV. . I THOUGH IT WAS THE ICV BUT IT LOOKS LIKE IT IS THE IDLE SWITCH..LET ME TELL YOU WHAT I DID...AT FIRST I MEASURE THE VOLTAGE TO THE ICV...I GOT TWO VOLTS AT 80 C. I THEN DISCONNECTED THE ICV AND NOTICE THE IDLE WENT UP TO A LITTLE OVER 1000 RPMS BUT THEN I DECIDED TO TEST DRIVE IT,WITH THE ICV DISCONNECTED AND THE CAR DROVE A BIT AND THEN IT DIE. NOW IT WAS DOING THE SAME THING WITH THE ICV CONNECTED. UNTIL I DISCONNECTED THE "IDLE CONTROL SWITCH" THAT IS WHEN THE REVS SLOWLY GO UP TO ABOUT 1200 WHEN COLD AND TO MORE THAN 1500 WHEN WARM 80 C OR HIGHER. BUT I CAN DRIVE IT AND IT WOULD NOT DIE ON ME IN FACT WHEN THE IDLE IS AT 1500 IN PARK AND I SWITCH TO DRIVE THE REVS GO DOWN TO 900RPMS AND IT FEELS LIKE IT WANTS TO GO...I MEAN IT LOOK LIKE MY IDLE CONTROL SWITCH IS THE PROBLEM...WHAT DO YOU THINK?...I WENT TO THE JUNK YARD AND GOT A COUPLE REPLACEMENTS...TWO...BUT I DON'T THINK THEY WORK SINCE WHEN I TESTED THEM ON THE CAR..I GOT THE SAME ISSUE...I JUST DON'T WANT TO SPENT $30 ON A NEW SWITCH AND THEN HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM....
At first, it is not normal that you get 2V on the idle control valve, you must get 4,5-6V. Second thing you didn't tell me if you get ground between the connector of your ECU and the connector of your ICV. If you do, then you have problem with sensors. You must check the sensors on your car. If you don't know which of them then send me the engine code of your car and will tell you which ones to check. As I know nothing about your cars sensors I can't tell you anything. If you do not know which to check then you must send me the year of your car, as well as the engine code(M103.983 for example) and I will tell you which sensors to check, that's how I can help you.
@@mercedeske what might be the problem if I disconect ICV -engines stalls. Same happening if I pressing breather hose (limiting air) which is connected to ICV? P.s. ICV was cleaned and lubricated + once connecting 12V to pins it's clicking and opening /closing. Thanks for your reply, why car stalls once ICV is disconected.
Do you think it's a good idea to measure Milliamps on the EHA by just sliding the plug a little back to expose the pins and alligator clipping the pins? Or should I only connect in the way you've shown?
@@alaingillot4718 I think my EHA is finally leaking. Noticed a bit of wetness on it, sigh. But strangely, when I put my nose down there, can't smell any fumes. I do smell fumes when driving. But my real question was, in the Factory Service Manual for EHA testing, my engine number has two variants, 1. KAT 2. RUF. My car is a 300E 4matic and has no KAT. Do I simply use the readings provided for RUF?
Hello, I have EHA 6.58 mm CO 45-55% (between 6.5 volts) EHA 20 ohms, fuel cut-off is 68 mA, it fluctuates around +8 and +9 mA at idle. 02 when disconnecting the sensor, +5 and + 6 mA fluctuates. 02 sensor fluctuates between 0.3 and 0.7 volts. How do I make +8 +9 mA -3 and +3 please help me thank you
![To-Do List #13: Fuel Mix Adjustments & Rear Washer Leak Fix [1991 S124 300TE 24V]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0LPzDU1r4b8/mqdefault.jpg)
Your videos are very helpful, Knjazevac. Thank you very much for all your great work and research!!! Raffaele De Benedictis
Thanks a lot. Just a little correction, Knjaževac is the city I live in my name is Ivica 😀😉
Thanks from Poland :)
Yeah! a sought-after video.. there is absolutely no video like it on youtube. Thank you so much...
Memnun oldum sevgili Refik. Sizden yorum aldığımda her zaman mutlu oluyorum çünkü benim gibi tembel değildiniz ve teorik videolarımı pratik hale getirip bilgilerimi başkalarıyla paylaştınız. Sadece videonun keyfini çıkarın ve en iyi dileklerimle ve "Iyi Bencukular", IcaFyM
Thank you from Ireland! Your guide is the only one I could find for my car on the Internet! I have a 1990 230e, no pin 3, no cat, no maf, no O2 sensor.
Does turning the mixture adjustment screw on 'no pin 3' models still alter the mixture? Unfortunately mine was messed with and I'm hoping your clever EHA adjustment will correct things. Great work, love your videos!
Thanks a lot. Greetings from Serbia 🇷🇸 😀 😊 🍀🍀🍀
Maestro sería una tremenda clase este video si UD lo hiciera en español cuando tenga la bonda y el tiempo adecuado se lo agradecería toda la comunidad en español que siempre lo seguimos gracias
In this video learn how to set your mixture if you don't have pin number 3 on your X11 port. In general, this is the way how to set your mixture on the EHA, it's a better way because you can directly observe what happens as the ECU sends current to the EHA after processing all the data from the sensors. These data go directly to the EHA and ICV. The EHA then "manipulates" the differential pressure in a friction of a second depending on the engine load whether the fuel flow should be cut-off, enriched or decreased. That's why you need to observe these phases directly on the EHA as the "magic happens". Four phases are common for all KE models of Mercedes. The rest of them you can obtain either on the internet or you can ask me for a small fee if you want to follow your car throughout all the phases of the engine load. Enjoy the video, Happy Mercedesing!
Thanks!
My pleasure. Thanks you, too
Hi Ivica,
I hope you are well.
I followed your instruction on this video for 1986 - 190e - 2.3 with cat, and I have 0 ma (ZERO) for all 4 stages. except at stage 3, I have 0.9volts. I checked it again with another multimeter, the same values. Any suggestion on where the problem is? I changed the computer, no difference.
Thanks
@@henrysalem5516 If you get 0mA on ignition on then it's either the ECU or the EHA - check the continuity on the wires of the EHA. If you don't get 19.5ohm on ignition off on the EHA, then the EHA is the culprit.If you get 11-13V on ignition on but you don't get the mAmps then it's the ECU. Either the Ecu or the EHA.
@@mercedeske Hi Ivica,
Thank you for your response.
I followed your steps:
- The EHA wires continuity is OK.
- The EHA Ohm was 18.3 and changed it to new EHA, with 19.8 Ohms.
- At ignition on, I get 140mA, I changed the ECM, again the same value of 140mA, instead of 20ma.
- I disconnected the fuel pump relay, still 140ma.
I don't know where the problem could be.
Thanks
Sería muy bueno si lo pudiera hacer en español cuando tenga la posibilidad , o si puede hacer uno de la suichera q es bastante interesante , como x ejemplo el inyector principal para prender tiene alguna relación con la suichera xq cuando pasa la suichera ella inyecta gasolina.
Me voy, claro!
Hi Ivica
I really like your Videos and I've just become a member. I suffer from a rough idle problem but he car is perfect when driving. I've just did your EHA test and got the following results. Ignition on Engine off = 9.7milliamps. Engine on 80c = 1.5milliamps. At 2500revs at 80c = minus 2 milliamps.
I've replaced the HT System, Injectors, Potentiometer and much more but still have the issue. Compression is very good on all cylinders. Fuel pressure is 5 bars and 5.4 bars (valve open). Vacuum gauge is not fully to the left on idle. Vacuum pressure slightly flickers at between 14/15Hg. I'm running out of ideas. Could you please point me in the right direction? Cheers
Hi, my man and thanks for becoming the Supporter. Concerning the EHA you have excellent readings. Was your car 300E without catalyst? As far as I know 14/15Hg is a good value. The next thing would be to measure the voltage on your ICV - it should be 4-6.5V. Check all the contacts on your ECU connector if you have continuity and voltage(11-13V). Check the contacts 1(power supply),2,7(internal ground) and 20(main ground from the battery). Check the contacts 1 on your ECU connector and 87E on your OVP connector(OVP removed). Check the potentiometer for continuity and check the contacts 87L(OVP) and the blue/red lead(ICV) to see if you have power supply. Check all the contacts on the ECU connector for continuity, you have that on my instagram page. Check all the sensors, that's what you can see on the channel as the member. That's it for now. Greetings and thanks once again.
HI..I WROTE TO YOU A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO FOR HELP WITH ROUGH IDLE, RIGHT FROM THE MOMENT YOU TURN THE CAR ON, ON A M103 ENGINE WITH SIX CYLINDERS. I THOUGH IT WAS THE ICV SINCE THE OUTPUT VOLTAGE TO IT IS 2V BUT RECENTLY THE PROBLEM GOT WORSE .THE ENGINE WOULD JUST DIE THE MOMENT YOU WENT FROM PARK TO DRIVE. SO I WOULD TURN THE CAR ON AND IT IMMEDIATELY WOULD START TO SURGE, THE IDLE WOULD GO UP AND DOWN..UP AND DOWN..THEN I WOULD PUT IT IN DRIVE AND THE CAR WOULD JUST DIE...SO I DECIDED TO DISCONNECT THE IDLE CONTROL SWITCH WHILE THE CAR WAS AT RUNNING TEMPERATURE AND THE IDLE WENT UP TO ABOUT 1500 RPM AND THAN WENT I PUT IN DRIVE THE IDLE WENT DOWN TO 900 RPM...A STABLE IDLE..AND I CAN DRIVE IT AND IT DOESN'T DIE UNLIKE WHEN THE IDLE SWITCH IS CONNECTED...R U FAMILIAR WITH THE IDLE CONTROL SWITCH? AND WHAT IT'S FUNCTION IS?..WHY IS IT THAT WHEN IT'S CONNECTED THE IDLE SURGES BAD AND THE CAR DIES WHEN YOU PUT IT IN DRIVE?...BUT WHEN IT'S DISCONNECTED THE REVS GO UP AND THE CAR DRIVES FINE?...ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED..THANKS.
If when you disconnect the icv and the idle goes up then you have vacuum leaks somewhere because 1500RPM on idle is too much. So I would recommend you to check for the vacuum leaks and first. As for the idle it works this way - the icv works as the ecu tells it. At first check for the continuity between the ecu and the icv. The red/white wire is the one that goes to the ecu and as for the pin, I must check which one is connected to the icv for m103(check pin 3 at the connector for the ecu). The ecu works the way sensors tell it so good sensors are a MUST for a good idle. Check also the continuity between the contacts 87L at the connector of the OVP and pin1 at the connector of the ecu(voltage supply). The whole mechanical part of the system must be also good functioning. That much I can tell.
@@mercedeske I HAVE CHECK FOR VACUUM LEAKS AND I HAVE SEAL EVERYTHING I COULD INCLUDING THE TOP OF THE INJECTORS WITH GASKET MAKING SEALANT. I HAVE ALSO REPLACE THE TWO VACUUM HOSES THAT CONNECT TO THE ICV. . I THOUGH IT WAS THE ICV BUT IT LOOKS LIKE IT IS THE IDLE SWITCH..LET ME TELL YOU WHAT I DID...AT FIRST I MEASURE THE VOLTAGE TO THE ICV...I GOT TWO VOLTS AT 80 C. I THEN DISCONNECTED THE ICV AND NOTICE THE IDLE WENT UP TO A LITTLE OVER 1000 RPMS BUT THEN I DECIDED TO TEST DRIVE IT,WITH THE ICV DISCONNECTED AND THE CAR DROVE A BIT AND THEN IT DIE. NOW IT WAS DOING THE SAME THING WITH THE ICV CONNECTED. UNTIL I DISCONNECTED THE "IDLE CONTROL SWITCH" THAT IS WHEN THE REVS SLOWLY GO UP TO ABOUT 1200 WHEN COLD AND TO MORE THAN 1500 WHEN WARM 80 C OR HIGHER. BUT I CAN DRIVE IT AND IT WOULD NOT DIE ON ME IN FACT WHEN THE IDLE IS AT 1500 IN PARK AND I SWITCH TO DRIVE THE REVS GO DOWN TO 900RPMS AND IT FEELS LIKE IT WANTS TO GO...I MEAN IT LOOK LIKE MY IDLE CONTROL SWITCH IS THE PROBLEM...WHAT DO YOU THINK?...I WENT TO THE JUNK YARD AND GOT A COUPLE REPLACEMENTS...TWO...BUT I DON'T THINK THEY WORK SINCE WHEN I TESTED THEM ON THE CAR..I GOT THE SAME ISSUE...I JUST DON'T WANT TO SPENT $30 ON A NEW SWITCH AND THEN HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM....
At first, it is not normal that you get 2V on the idle control valve, you must get 4,5-6V. Second thing you didn't tell me if you get ground between the connector of your ECU and the connector of your ICV. If you do, then you have problem with sensors. You must check the sensors on your car. If you don't know which of them then send me the engine code of your car and will tell you which ones to check. As I know nothing about your cars sensors I can't tell you anything. If you do not know which to check then you must send me the year of your car, as well as the engine code(M103.983 for example) and I will tell you which sensors to check, that's how I can help you.
@@mercedeske what might be the problem if I disconect ICV -engines stalls.
Same happening if I pressing breather hose (limiting air) which is connected to ICV?
P.s. ICV was cleaned and lubricated + once connecting 12V to pins it's clicking and opening /closing.
Thanks for your reply, why car stalls once ICV is disconected.
@@mr.reptilia797 Check for the vacuum leaks.
Do you think it's a good idea to measure Milliamps on the EHA by just sliding the plug a little back to expose the pins and alligator clipping the pins? Or should I only connect in the way you've shown?
Do it the way I did it.
It wont work to measure milli amps , will work for volts . You are measuring the flow on one wire . this flow has to go thru the meter .
@@alaingillot4718 I think my EHA is finally leaking. Noticed a bit of wetness on it, sigh. But strangely, when I put my nose down there, can't smell any fumes. I do smell fumes when driving. But my real question was, in the Factory Service Manual for EHA testing, my engine number has two variants, 1. KAT 2. RUF. My car is a 300E 4matic and has no KAT. Do I simply use the readings provided for RUF?
Whats more important, current, or differencial 0,4 bars?
962 non cat version
I just measured that and i have 0.1 mAh with ignition on engine off. There are 3 celsius.
Both of them.
@@mercedeske i justfigured out, that my new temp sensor is faulty. At 3 celsius it had 1kohm
@@asineprestanou5221 There. Buy Bosch or Hella.
Poz, u pitanju je m102 2.3 i primjetio sam da automobil slabije ide moze li razlog biti vakum crijeva jer su pukla?
Pozdrav. Moze itekako! Menjaj!
Hello, I have EHA 6.58 mm CO 45-55% (between 6.5 volts) EHA 20 ohms, fuel cut-off is 68 mA, it fluctuates around +8 and +9 mA at idle. 02 when disconnecting the sensor, +5 and + 6 mA fluctuates. 02 sensor fluctuates between 0.3 and 0.7 volts. How do I make +8 +9 mA -3 and +3 please help me thank you
Hello. Turn the eha screw for 1/4 of a turn clockwise. Get everything back and read the value again.
Zaviri u more srce
My car w201 m102 engine 1.8 outomotic
Everything in the car was very good, the performance was good, I just want to know why was it worth 8 _9 mA?
If so, he is rich ? +9mA
Waiting for the video
That's the video.
@@mercedeske your video very helpful for who don't have port number 3
@@shahidnoor45 Thanks
hi, my car makes automatic choke in hot and cold operation.Thanks you
You mean it holds revs up for a bit?
@@mercedeskeyes, I'm stepping on the gas it's falling
@@mercedeske 1100rpm 750 rpm