Need help planning or photographing the Moon? Comment below! 👉 And check this guide to master Moon photography: www.photopills.com/articles/moon-photography-guide
I was going to say same thing. Maybe they don't like his hair. Maybe they don't get PhotoPills. This would have been science fiction not that long ago.
@@luarbiasawaras8700 it's their loss. I just bought the app and don't understand al of the incredible things it can do yet - I'm on a learning curve -but I already think they don't charge enough for all the things it does!!!
Nobody should purchase a camera without purchasing a copy of PhotoPills! Absolutely the best app ever for photo planning!! Your tutorials are spectacular as well.
I have used the planer during the last super moon (April 8th) for a shoot that was in my mind since more than 2 years. The moon very low between the two towers of cologne cathedral. The plan works extremely well and the picture is amazing. Thank you so much.
So much information, so helpful. So grateful. Best app (developers) there is/are, you guys! Always improving on it, always giving us new videos and info. Kudos!
There are no better app developers i've seen than PhotoPills. Not only they developed a masterpiece for photographers but keep adding useful information to make it an amazing experience. Great job guys!!!
Amazing. Being able to prepare ahead of time, and know what to do when you get to your spot has taken so much frustration out of my photography! If Photopills ever comes to Sequioa National Park, you all deserve local Tacos!!!
Hi Simon! In that case you need to expose for the Moon. And you need to plan to shoot when the Sun is below -6 degrees of elevation. This is the Nautical Twilight, Astronomical Twilight or nighttime.
Question about crop sensor and the multiplier. Should we use the number on the lens or add the crop sensor and the multiplier. For example I have a canon 5Ti with a 70-300 lens and a 1.4 adapter. So at 300 x 1.6 x 1.4 = 672. So should I use 300 or ~670 when using photo pills? I do have a full fram, but only have a 70-200 EF lens, so I am glad I keep my older cameras. Great instruction on how to use PhotoPills. Thanks.
Hi Doug! Just use the number on the lens. As you select the camera you are using, we already know the crop factor and we use it when calculating the depth of field or field of view values. We do the math for you :) In your case, use 300mm. You'll also see that in the focal length selector you can select the teleconverters you're using.
Thank you. This video is perfect timing. I’m planning a photo shoot of the March supermoon over our State Capitol from a mile away using a 600mm telephoto lens. I followed your instructions except for the white balance setting. I have not thought about the white balance and how it effects the photo. How did you determine the proper setting? Thanks
Thank you Merrill! White balance can always be adjusted in pos processing. Since the shot was during blue hour, Antoni chose a neutral white balance to shot the true colors of the scene.
Thanks, you're a great teacher. Did you write this app? If so, hats off, as a programmer, I'm humbled (using the word correctly, unlike people on TV who aren't really humbled). Do you ever blend in a perfectly focused moon?
Thank you so much. I'm new to PhotoPills and have a lot to learn. So much information! I will look at your other links too. I hope I can get to grips with it before the 9th March :)
Hey thanks for your reply. I’ve tried exposing for the moon, but then loose the foreground…the shot I’m ‘planning’ was the moon setting 2hours before sunrise…🤔
When using the DoF tool (as shown in the video) and using an APS-C camera, do you need to put in the focal length of the lens incl. or excl. crop-factor? (I assume excluding)
Hi Steve! Most people recommend 1/125 when shooting only the moon, when it's super bright and you use a long telephoto lens. When adding a landscape we've been able to shoot at 1s without problems. Take into account that the moon when rising and it's lower in the sky, it's always blurry because of the atmosphere. You probably won't see any difference if you shoot 1s depending on the focal length you use. Do a test and check it if it's too long for you or not, and you can always bracket to have more than one shutter speed and select the best photo.
You said during the video that if you shoot at blue hour you don't need a graduated filter to darken the moon. It seems like there is a square filter mounted to the camera. How was it used? Would you use a grad neutral filter? How would you prevent it from darkening a portion of the lighthouse?
I assume you are manually focusing rather than using auto-focus? I often have difficulty getting tack sharp focus and I set up very much like you described in the video. I also use mirror lock up just to minimize shutter slap. I will also try to focus on my subject and then the moon and combine in post, but the moon has been a challenging subject for me!!
This is a great tutorial. I am having problems understanding due to my ears being used to southern drawl (USA for those not familiar). Is there a transcript available other than the one provided by UA-cam? It didn't do so well with voice recognition either. This is NO disrespect to the presenter, who seems very knowledgeable.
So after you take the shot, what steps do you take in post processing to bring it all together? When bracketing on my canon 5d, I see 3 shots after doing so. I'm new at this so sorry if it's a dumb question.
No dumb question :) We don't blend the shots, we just select the best photo and we post process it. Sometimes when photographing the moon, as it moves really fast and the light changes super fast too, it's not easy to nail the exposure. Either the moon has blown the highlights, or the landscape is too dark. So we bracket the shot and then select the most balanced shot, with no clipped highlights. The shadows are easily recoverable :)
I used photo pills to accurately place my camera as far away as 6kms from the subject. Its fantastic!👍I have a question that I can't really figure out. Let's say I have the perfect moon alignment/elevation to start with. If I were to move the camera a meter to the right (alongthe horizontal axis) , does that move the alignment at the subject (black pin) by a meter to the right also or does it depend on distance. Somehow I feel distance should have a multiplying effect but it looks to me it doesn't; it's 1:1 regardless of distance. HELP:-)
Hi! You're moving one meter on both cases. But take it into account that the relative size of the moon with your subject gets bigger with distance, as the moon has an angular diameter of 0.5º. If your subject is just 10m away from you, the moon will look super tiny (0.1 meters at that point), so moving 1 meter to the right/left it will have a great impact in the composition. However, if your subject is 10km away, the moon is huge (around 100m of diameter), so moving one meter left/right won't make any difference. You'll have to move more.
@@PhotoPills aaah. I obviously know about the relationship between the distance and the moon size, but I never thought to equate the movement (of say 1m) to the relative size of the moon. Its been bothering me for ages! Thanks for the explanation. While I have your attention:-) I am actually in Spain at the moment trying to do a moonrise at 6km distance from the subject ( at Belmonte castle near Cuenca). In your opinion am I being too optimistic with the distance because of air quality/haze. So far, a combination of light clouds and air quality is not giving me sufficient visibility at the horizon. The moon is well out of frame by the time its really visible. Thanks again.
@@SnapographyAP The further the shooting distance, more challenging is the shot. That's true. That's because the further you go, the lower in the sky has to be the moon to aligned it with your subject. And the lower the moon, less visible it is due to the atmosphere thickness at the horizon, pollution, haze, etc. But it's not impossible, we've seen shots from more than 40km from the subject for example in Madrid. One tip, is to select a date when the sun is just around -5 to -1 degrees under the horizon. This way the moon will be really bright and it will be more visibe.
@@PhotoPills ok thanks wasn't sure whether to give up or not. I will wait and hope at least the light clouds go. Also this is farm land which can be dusty. I usually shoot over about five days. Later is better for the moon but then lighting the subject properly is the issue. For me tonight is my (1/10) best night to get the right balance. The weather forecast isn't great but its possible the light clouds might go. Thanks for your advice. (I have just checked your app and tonight the sun is -5 so definitely agree with you 👍)
Thanks Rafael! Question, what would you recommend as the best way to quickly bracket for exposure when shooting? Of course, the moon will be moving quickly, so it needs to be as quick as possible? Just quickly adjusting aperture, shutter speed, or ISO and re-shooting? Which is preferable to adjust, as adjusting any settings has its drawbacks e.g. Loss of DoF, motion blur, or ISO noise? Thanks!
Hi Matthew! Use the bracketing function of your camera (based on ISO or shutter speed). The moon moves fast but you won't get motion blur with shutter speed under 1s.
Rafael, I've got a problem. For some reason when I open the planner section, it defaults to a previous plan that I had worked on in the past trying to learn how to use it. How can I reset the planner section completely, (back to square one), so I can follow along with some of the newer planner lessons you have put out on You Tube?
That's how the Planner works. It always show you the settings you used the last time. To start a new plan is as easy as to move the red pin to the new shooting location and select a new date and time. To bring the red pin to your current location you can tap the (+) button on the map and then the first button in the toolbar that appears. To move the time to your current date and time just double tap the center of the time bar.
I am currently using a ballhead on my tripod to support my camera and 500mm lens with teleconverter..I find that when I have to tilt up beyond maybe 30degrees that the lens is not as stable as I wish..more vibration occurs more easily...what head/platform do you find to be the most stable when supporting the heavy lenses required for night shoots? I use the Canon 5d Mark IV and manfroto ballhead currently...
It all depends on the size of your subject and how big you want the moon to be relative to it. For human figures then 300-400m is great (moon size of 3-4m). For lighthouses... I like 1000-2000m.
Hi! Yes! PhotoPills is available for tablets too. And if you have bought the Android version for your phone, you can also install it on your tablet. Just go to Google Play, log in with the same account you bought PhotoPills. Then search PhotoPills and install it. It works the same way if you have an iPhone and an iPad :)
Thanks. Will maps be displayed? I read on the Internet that maps may not be displayed, even when installing a compass. I really like the program, I advise all photographers.@@PhotoPills
Taking different shots with different shutter speeds. All cameras have a mode where you can select a shutter speed, an exposure step and a number of shots. This allows, for example, to take 3 shots at the same times with 3 different exposures. Check our exposure guide: www.photopills.com/articles/exposure-photography-guide-3#step23
The people who gives this a thumbs down are suicidal! Just like author gives you something valuable like gold but instead of saying thank you they say fuck you!
What I find unclear is the relationship between the red and black pin, I’m just lost on where I’m supposed to be placing the red pin or if I need to pay attention to it at all. Can’t refund this shit so I need help yo.
Of course you can refund it, Google and Apple allows it, just send us an email to info@photopills.com. However, if you really want to learn how to plan a moon shot, check this video: ua-cam.com/video/u8OLTsKTDwY/v-deo.html This videos is how to photograph, not how to plan it :) We have another video for that.
hi Rafael I have a question about the altitude difference in the panel #2, do I have the take it in to account when i'm planning a shot ? I see a lot of your videos but you didn't mentioned it except for only one , this one ua-cam.com/video/WG9eaaJLsD0/v-deo.html if you want is it possible to me to send you my plan by email that way you can visualize if everything"s is correct on my side ? For example in my planned shot the difference altitude from subject are 738.5m and 4m 0.31degree thanks
boy, you just plain talk too fast in way less than perfect English for this american viewer and I use photopills a lot, can't watch your videos in English unless I concentrate very hard and go back and forth in the video.
Typical American who hasn't been exposed to enough foreigners. His English was fine. Your concentration needs improvement. You know you can slow the video speed down, right?
question please for a complete newby...i have photopills on my mobile ph.im slowly getting confidence using it...im LOST tho,,,, why doesnt photopills put the galatic center ETC ETC over the BLACK subject pin..instead its over the RED one...id like to see details over BLACK because its the subject pin and youre looking at it from a distance..id like to see it over the black because you get a better idea of what it will look like once exposed
Need help planning or photographing the Moon? Comment below!
👉 And check this guide to master Moon photography:
www.photopills.com/articles/moon-photography-guide
Thx! ☺️
Thanks for the tips, especially the one which reminds me not to go >1s on SS (I may have been to used to long exposures!)
Why on earth would two people give this a thumbs down? It's utterly amazing!!!
Thanks Trevor 😘
I was going to say same thing. Maybe they don't like his hair. Maybe they don't get PhotoPills. This would have been science fiction not that long ago.
Maybe they dont want to pay for this amazing app
11 now! Head wobbles
@@luarbiasawaras8700 it's their loss. I just bought the app and don't understand al of the incredible things it can do yet - I'm on a learning curve -but I already think they don't charge enough for all the things it does!!!
Nobody should purchase a camera without purchasing a copy of PhotoPills! Absolutely the best app ever for photo planning!! Your tutorials are spectacular as well.
Except if you're not interested in this sort of photography.
Thank you Gregory! 😘
Best tutorial for moon photography ever👍🏼💪🏼
Thank you!! ❤️
I have used the planer during the last super moon (April 8th) for a shoot that was in my mind since more than 2 years. The moon very low between the two towers of cologne cathedral. The plan works extremely well and the picture is amazing. Thank you so much.
Thanks, this is fantastic! So much great information, I'm going to have to watch this a dozen more times 😉
Thanks Matthew! Good luck with the Supermoon!
So much information, so helpful.
So grateful.
Best app (developers) there is/are, you guys!
Always improving on it, always giving us new videos and info.
Kudos!
Yeah! Thanks so much Ro :D
There are no better app developers i've seen than PhotoPills. Not only they developed a masterpiece for photographers but keep adding useful information to make it an amazing experience. Great job guys!!!
Awesome! Thanks so much Sunil!! 😍
Thanks a lot, @PhotoPills, for providing such rich content free of charge to the community.
Thank you Vikas!
Without these videos the app would be almost useless to me it's so complex...thank you for helping us with these videos.
Thank you Randy! It's easier than it seems. With a bit of practice everything becomes clear 😜
@@PhotoPills absolutely I understand with practice it would be easier.
Thank you for this information
Thank you Kevin!
This video should be called Photographing the Moon with PhotoPills. Discussion about camera settings was minimal, but useful.
Thank you for the feedback Alan. If you need more help with the camera settings check this guide: www.photopills.com/articles/moon-photography-guide
Thank you, I learned a lot.
Cool!
Amazing. Being able to prepare ahead of time, and know what to do when you get to your spot has taken so much frustration out of my photography! If Photopills ever comes to Sequioa National Park, you all deserve local Tacos!!!
Love TACOS!
@@PhotoPills If you come, my treat!
@@shfeil I will ;)
I got an amazing photo of the moon right behind the Empire State Building last night (October 1st, 2020) thanks to you. You're amazing!!!
What a great tutorial! WB- Kelvin, Bracketing! DoF, Focus point, I have learned so much from you! Amazing.
Check that...it's a new moon. What a stupid I am!
Glad you found it useful!!
Fantastic tutorial. Great job. Thanks.
Thank you Derek!
Fantastic! What a discovery this channel! Great job.
Great videos as always….! I have a question, how best to photograph a full moon with a silhouette foreground? Thanks for your help….😊
Hi Simon! In that case you need to expose for the Moon. And you need to plan to shoot when the Sun is below -6 degrees of elevation. This is the Nautical Twilight, Astronomical Twilight or nighttime.
Question about crop sensor and the multiplier. Should we use the number on the lens or add the crop sensor and the multiplier. For example I have a canon 5Ti with a 70-300 lens and a 1.4 adapter. So at 300 x 1.6 x 1.4 = 672. So should I use 300 or ~670 when using photo pills? I do have a full fram, but only have a 70-200 EF lens, so I am glad I keep my older cameras. Great instruction on how to use PhotoPills. Thanks.
Hi Doug! Just use the number on the lens. As you select the camera you are using, we already know the crop factor and we use it when calculating the depth of field or field of view values. We do the math for you :) In your case, use 300mm. You'll also see that in the focal length selector you can select the teleconverters you're using.
Totally awesome tutorials - best app ever!
Thanks so much!!
Excellent information, I am a armature photographer but keep getting better by watching your videos.
Thank you Henry!
Great video! Definitely some really useful info. 🙌🏼
Thank you Perea!
Thank you. This video is perfect timing. I’m planning a photo shoot of the March supermoon over our State Capitol from a mile away using a 600mm telephoto lens. I followed your instructions except for the white balance setting. I have not thought about the white balance and how it effects the photo. How did you determine the proper setting? Thanks
Thank you Merrill! White balance can always be adjusted in pos processing. Since the shot was during blue hour, Antoni chose a neutral white balance to shot the true colors of the scene.
Fantastic instructions! Lot's to learn, thank you!
Thank you!
Excellent. Superb explanation. 😀
What a great explanation thanks - looking forward to my next full moon
Thank you Emma!
Amazing, it’s almost wizardry, I like thanks for sharing
Thank you!
Thanks a lot very helpful. Now we hope at the weather is good tomorrow in south of Sweden. No clouds please. Photopills the best app.
Plan & Pray!!
Thanks, you're a great teacher. Did you write this app? If so, hats off, as a programmer, I'm humbled (using the word correctly, unlike people on TV who aren't really humbled).
Do you ever blend in a perfectly focused moon?
I have been using this app since the beginning of its release, it is the best app
Thank you!
exellent explenations, even the absolutely beginners will understand everything!!
Thank you Vladislav!
Thank you so much. I'm new to PhotoPills and have a lot to learn. So much information! I will look at your other links too. I hope I can get to grips with it before the 9th March :)
Thanks so much! This video will really help you plan your Supermoon shot!
Awesome tutorial! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. Mill Gracias.
Thanks so much!!
Great information. Thank you
Thank you Rapael and team, what would we do without the briljant app you guy's give us. Thanks for that.
Awesome! Thanks so much Ronnie!
A ton of information in this video. 😊But very well put together, congrats!
Thank you!
All this time having photo pills i didn't have any idea how to use it, thanks for the information was very helpful 👍
Thank you Alejandro!
Hey thanks for your reply. I’ve tried exposing for the moon, but then loose the foreground…the shot I’m ‘planning’ was the moon setting 2hours before sunrise…🤔
In that case you need 2 exposures (foreground and Moon).
When using the DoF tool (as shown in the video) and using an APS-C camera, do you need to put in the focal length of the lens incl. or excl. crop-factor? (I assume excluding)
Hi Frank! PhotoPills takes into account the crop factor. So introduce the real focal length 😎
Really clear and useful. Thank you
Wonderful guide to shoot the moon.... Great.
Thanks Ravi!
Thank you.Very informative
Thank you Bill :D
Loving the app and this channel.
Thank you Jim!
Hi Rafael, I am confused about shutter speed. Surely 1s would be too slow due to the movement of the moon? Most people recommend at least 1/125.
Hi Steve! Most people recommend 1/125 when shooting only the moon, when it's super bright and you use a long telephoto lens. When adding a landscape we've been able to shoot at 1s without problems. Take into account that the moon when rising and it's lower in the sky, it's always blurry because of the atmosphere. You probably won't see any difference if you shoot 1s depending on the focal length you use. Do a test and check it if it's too long for you or not, and you can always bracket to have more than one shutter speed and select the best photo.
@@PhotoPills Thanks, really great app BTW.
@@PhotoPills I read your answer and now I understand why they say from 1/125 to 1/250.
Excellent guide for this amazing App! Thank you!!
Thank you Randy!
Can you supply some good weather as well as good tuition? In Scotland the forecast is rain on 3rd March....bummer.
What bout March 9th? There is a Supermoon :P
@@PhotoPills Your right, I just checked it on a great app called PhotoPills! Have you heard of it?
Chris Magnus 😂😂😂
You said during the video that if you shoot at blue hour you don't need a graduated filter to darken the moon. It seems like there is a square filter mounted to the camera. How was it used? Would you use a grad neutral filter? How would you prevent it from darkening a portion of the lighthouse?
Hi Joe, to photograph the Moon we never use a filter...
Thanks! Pau Gasol.
Can I shoot the way you mention with my Nikon coolpix B700 bridge camera? 1?please advise.
Amazing! Thank you so much!
Thank you Macarena :)
I assume you are manually focusing rather than using auto-focus? I often have difficulty getting tack sharp focus and I set up very much like you described in the video. I also use mirror lock up just to minimize shutter slap. I will also try to focus on my subject and then the moon and combine in post, but the moon has been a challenging subject for me!!
Antoni uses autofocus and sometimes manual focus. Use the method that gives you better results. Good luck with the Moon!
This is a great tutorial. I am having problems understanding due to my ears being used to southern drawl (USA for those not familiar). Is there a transcript available other than the one provided by UA-cam? It didn't do so well with voice recognition either. This is NO disrespect to the presenter, who seems very knowledgeable.
Hi Sharon, we'll add subtitles soon :)
The more I learn about Photopills the more I think the App should be mandatory for landscape photographers :)
Thanks so much Manuel!
WoW! Thanks!!
Thank you Nick!
So after you take the shot, what steps do you take in post processing to bring it all together? When bracketing on my canon 5d, I see 3 shots after doing so. I'm new at this so sorry if it's a dumb question.
No dumb question :) We don't blend the shots, we just select the best photo and we post process it. Sometimes when photographing the moon, as it moves really fast and the light changes super fast too, it's not easy to nail the exposure. Either the moon has blown the highlights, or the landscape is too dark. So we bracket the shot and then select the most balanced shot, with no clipped highlights. The shadows are easily recoverable :)
I used photo pills to accurately place my camera as far away as 6kms from the subject. Its fantastic!👍I have a question that I can't really figure out.
Let's say I have the perfect moon alignment/elevation to start with. If I were to move the camera a meter to the right (alongthe horizontal axis) , does that move the alignment at the subject (black pin) by a meter to the right also or does it depend on distance. Somehow I feel distance should have a multiplying effect but it looks to me it doesn't; it's 1:1 regardless of distance. HELP:-)
Hi! You're moving one meter on both cases. But take it into account that the relative size of the moon with your subject gets bigger with distance, as the moon has an angular diameter of 0.5º. If your subject is just 10m away from you, the moon will look super tiny (0.1 meters at that point), so moving 1 meter to the right/left it will have a great impact in the composition. However, if your subject is 10km away, the moon is huge (around 100m of diameter), so moving one meter left/right won't make any difference. You'll have to move more.
@@PhotoPills aaah. I obviously know about the relationship between the distance and the moon size, but I never thought to equate the movement (of say 1m) to the relative size of the moon. Its been bothering me for ages! Thanks for the explanation.
While I have your attention:-) I am actually in Spain at the moment trying to do a moonrise at 6km distance from the subject ( at Belmonte castle near Cuenca). In your opinion am I being too optimistic with the distance because of air quality/haze. So far, a combination of light clouds and air quality is not giving me sufficient visibility at the horizon. The moon is well out of frame by the time its really visible. Thanks again.
@@SnapographyAP The further the shooting distance, more challenging is the shot. That's true. That's because the further you go, the lower in the sky has to be the moon to aligned it with your subject. And the lower the moon, less visible it is due to the atmosphere thickness at the horizon, pollution, haze, etc. But it's not impossible, we've seen shots from more than 40km from the subject for example in Madrid. One tip, is to select a date when the sun is just around -5 to -1 degrees under the horizon. This way the moon will be really bright and it will be more visibe.
@@PhotoPills ok thanks wasn't sure whether to give up or not. I will wait and hope at least the light clouds go. Also this is farm land which can be dusty. I usually shoot over about five days. Later is better for the moon but then lighting the subject properly is the issue. For me tonight is my (1/10) best night to get the right balance. The weather forecast isn't great but its possible the light clouds might go. Thanks for your advice. (I have just checked your app and tonight the sun is -5 so definitely agree with you 👍)
Thanks Rafael! Question, what would you recommend as the best way to quickly bracket for exposure when shooting? Of course, the moon will be moving quickly, so it needs to be as quick as possible? Just quickly adjusting aperture, shutter speed, or ISO and re-shooting? Which is preferable to adjust, as adjusting any settings has its drawbacks e.g. Loss of DoF, motion blur, or ISO noise? Thanks!
Hi Matthew! Use the bracketing function of your camera (based on ISO or shutter speed). The moon moves fast but you won't get motion blur with shutter speed under 1s.
Brilliant, learnt so much from you,
Can you record it with video? aside from just taking a photo?
Yes! You can record a video of the Moon rising or setting ;)
Rafael, I've got a problem. For some reason when I open the planner section, it defaults to a previous plan that I had worked on in the past trying to learn how to use it. How can I reset the planner section completely, (back to square one), so I can follow along with some of the newer planner lessons you have put out on You Tube?
That's how the Planner works. It always show you the settings you used the last time. To start a new plan is as easy as to move the red pin to the new shooting location and select a new date and time. To bring the red pin to your current location you can tap the (+) button on the map and then the first button in the toolbar that appears. To move the time to your current date and time just double tap the center of the time bar.
I am currently using a ballhead on my tripod to support my camera and 500mm lens with teleconverter..I find that when I have to tilt up beyond maybe 30degrees that the lens is not as stable as I wish..more vibration occurs more easily...what head/platform do you find to be the most stable when supporting the heavy lenses required for night shoots? I use the Canon 5d Mark IV and manfroto ballhead currently...
A strong Gimbal head...
What are the different WB setting to use? What effects do we get when we change the WB?
It changes the color temperature of the image. If you shoot in Raw you can always adjust the WB in post processing with Lightroom or so...
Thanks, this was very helpful :)
Thanks so much Nick!
Hello! What is a "sweet distance" between red and black pointer?
It all depends on the size of your subject and how big you want the moon to be relative to it. For human figures then 300-400m is great (moon size of 3-4m). For lighthouses... I like 1000-2000m.
@@PhotoPills thanks for quick answer. my subject is little church (4m high) on little island.
Again you! JP
:)
Great tutorial!
Is the darker blue when the moon will set ?
Yes! The thick dark blue line is the Moonset direction.
My lense is 75-300mm will that be ok?
Yep
I can not find the link to the PLAN, help me Pls.
Hi! What plan do you mean?
@@PhotoPills at 1:08 in this video, pls!
Where was this last night lol
There is another moon approaching ;)
You hurt my tiny brain. Can you develop a photopills microchip that I can get implanted?
😂😂😂
Good afternoon. Can I install the program on my tablet?
Hi! Yes! PhotoPills is available for tablets too. And if you have bought the Android version for your phone, you can also install it on your tablet. Just go to Google Play, log in with the same account you bought PhotoPills. Then search PhotoPills and install it. It works the same way if you have an iPhone and an iPad :)
Thanks. Will maps be displayed? I read on the Internet that maps may not be displayed, even when installing a compass. I really like the program, I advise all photographers.@@PhotoPills
@@user-eo9jk1xt6o Yes, the map is displayed on the Planner. Thanks!
Does the magnetic sensor have to be in the tablet?@@PhotoPills
@@user-eo9jk1xt6o yes, if you wish to use the Augmented Reality views you need a tablet with compass.
if your shooting sky and foreground is real dark bracketing could push longer than 1 sec.
Yes, and depending on the lens you can go to 2s max. But we usually push the ISO up.
📸🎬🎥
Imagine.Plan.Shoot! ;)
What is bracketing
Taking different shots with different shutter speeds. All cameras have a mode where you can select a shutter speed, an exposure step and a number of shots. This allows, for example, to take 3 shots at the same times with 3 different exposures. Check our exposure guide: www.photopills.com/articles/exposure-photography-guide-3#step23
Explain the tip of Bracketing again...
Não a tradução para português?
I'd love to, but I don't master Portuguese...
The people who gives this a thumbs down are suicidal! Just like author gives you something valuable like gold but instead of saying thank you they say fuck you!
What I find unclear is the relationship between the red and black pin, I’m just lost on where I’m supposed to be placing the red pin or if I need to pay attention to it at all. Can’t refund this shit so I need help yo.
Of course you can refund it, Google and Apple allows it, just send us an email to info@photopills.com. However, if you really want to learn how to plan a moon shot, check this video:
ua-cam.com/video/u8OLTsKTDwY/v-deo.html
This videos is how to photograph, not how to plan it :) We have another video for that.
Good tips. Should add subtitles since your pronunciation is not clear. Also a bit long-winded 😅
Thanks for the feedback!
hi Rafael
I have a question about the altitude difference in the panel #2, do I have the take it in to account when i'm planning a shot ? I see a lot of your videos but you didn't mentioned it except for only one , this one
ua-cam.com/video/WG9eaaJLsD0/v-deo.html
if you want is it possible to me to send you my plan by email that way you can visualize if everything"s is correct on my side ?
For example in my planned shot the difference altitude from subject are 738.5m and 4m 0.31degree
thanks
boy, you just plain talk too fast in way less than perfect English for this american viewer and I use photopills a lot, can't watch your videos in English unless I concentrate very hard and go back and forth in the video.
Typical American who hasn't been exposed to enough foreigners. His English was fine. Your concentration needs improvement. You know you can slow the video speed down, right?
Hi Michael! I'll do my best to improve my English skills. I gotta do more videos to improve hehe 😀
Okidoke Yes! Slowing speed down will help. Thanks for the tip!
I disliked it because I don't get what I come for.
What did you wanna get?
question please for a complete newby...i have photopills on my mobile ph.im slowly getting confidence using it...im LOST tho,,,, why doesnt photopills put the galatic center ETC ETC over the BLACK subject pin..instead its over the RED one...id like to see details over BLACK because its the subject pin and youre looking at it from a distance..id like to see it over the black because you get a better idea of what it will look like once exposed
Hi Robby! Because when planning a photo you need to know the position of the MW as seen from the Shooting Spot (Red Pin)
Such a good tutorial! Thank you
Thanks so much!
Informative. Thank you.
Thanks so much Guy!