Hello tup_moyes cables are 200mtrs of 1.5mm 3 core electrical cable. Would be nicer to have larger lager cable but cost is $$$$ I’m now up to 312watt @6.5amp thanks
@@evofnk Yes, let the cables run the 200m distance as 3 phase AC, you can use thin doorbell wires. at 500V your AC frequency will be 100HZ+ so use 3 toroidal transformers that work better at higher frequencies and your losses will be small. (I do realize that this discussion is years old and you likely has finished your installation and is happy about it).
If the alternator puts out its highest AC voltage as wound, leave the AC voltage high and transmit it to your final use point to minimize line loss. At the final use point, use a transformer to lower the voltage to useful levels. If you are threatening to burn out the alternator, lower the pelton speed with less water pressure. If the washing machine was designed to operate on 120 volts, you should also output at that voltage to be safe. At that voltage it should give you your maximum safe wattage. Rewiring the stator will reduce the voltage and thus reduce the wattage over your windings and transmission line. When the voltage is reduced the resistance factor in the wire will come into play and frictional heating will become a problem. Am I right on this? The F&P website quotes one F&P motor as 640 watts. I would not look for more than that.
This is in NZ, so the machine would run on 220VAC. The actual motor is 3 phase from memory, but the machine itself would be fed from standard single phase 200VAC household supply. AngryRam does a great video series on converting an F&P motor for use. ua-cam.com/video/0ieFZI4-6K8/v-deo.html
What was the wiring of the stator and what are you going to wire the stater to now. 2cx12. 3cx4 and so on??
Awesome job brother
Out of interest how long are the cables from the turbine back to the batteries.
Hello tup_moyes cables are 200mtrs of 1.5mm 3 core electrical cable. Would be nicer to have larger lager cable but cost is $$$$ I’m now up to 312watt @6.5amp thanks
@@evofnk Yes, let the cables run the 200m distance as 3 phase AC, you can use thin doorbell wires. at 500V your AC frequency will be 100HZ+ so use 3 toroidal transformers that work better at higher frequencies and your losses will be small. (I do realize that this discussion is years old and you likely has finished your installation and is happy about it).
how many amps do you get out by this pipe-length? is the pipe diameter around 150mm?
100 meters of 50mm ( dia ) pipe as talked about @ the start of the vid
If the alternator puts out its highest AC voltage as wound, leave the AC voltage high and transmit it to your final use point to minimize line loss. At the final use point, use a transformer to lower the voltage to useful levels. If you are threatening to burn out the alternator, lower the pelton speed with less water pressure. If the washing machine was designed to operate on 120 volts, you should also output at that voltage to be safe. At that voltage it should give you your maximum safe wattage. Rewiring the stator will reduce the voltage and thus reduce the wattage over your windings and transmission line. When the voltage is reduced the resistance factor in the wire will come into play and frictional heating will become a problem. Am I right on this? The F&P website quotes one F&P motor as 640 watts. I would not look for more than that.
This is in NZ, so the machine would run on 220VAC. The actual motor is 3 phase from memory, but the machine itself would be fed from standard single phase 200VAC household supply. AngryRam does a great video series on converting an F&P motor for use. ua-cam.com/video/0ieFZI4-6K8/v-deo.html