That's awesome. I've always wanted to come come by a mint Powermatic 66 (I believe that is what I cut my teeth on) in the cabinet shop I worked in during highschool. That thing was a beast!
Sean Moenkhoff I just replaced the angle screw bearing with a 1/2” pillow block bearing and 6” handle I picked up off EBay. The tilt hasn’t worked this easy sense it was new (40 years ago)!
That is awesome. Equipment that works easier is more fun to use. I know my angle screw is getting stiff but I believe it's because of dust build up in the threads because after I initially crank it, it gets much easier!
I know it's been a while since this video was released. But I recently purchased one of these table saw and was wondering how did you mount the pillow block bearing in the saw and did you have to drill holes or did you fabricate something and utilized the existing holes?@@rbwoodwork1890
Rad I like it. I picked up a 113xxx three years ago mint condition. Full cast iron exoskeleton wings. I’ve completely restored the saw. It has been a work has and shreds. Painted base black, added Rockler mobile base with some oak stained dark walnut and cleared. And panels inside the base on the right left and front sides stained dark walnut and cleared. Added Rockler stop switch. Re wired switch and motor with all 12g wire. Added DELTA T3 Fence. Painted cabinet of saw craftsman red, pulled adjustable wheels off polished to a mirror finish. Next thing I’m about to do is add an align it kit, and the pullys and link belt and that should do it. This saw looks gorgeous and performs like a beast. Should last me 20 years.
Thanks for that awesome detail David. I've been looking at figuring out a better rip fence for mine. My 12/24 align-a-rip fence that came with mine seems to track not 100% straight with the blade (or miter tracks). The far end tracks behind depending on which way I slide it (away or towards the blade) which for me is quite annoying because it can start to pinch the wood and leave saw marks if I'm moving away from the blade. I started out learning on what I'm pretty sure was a Powermatic 66 (where I went to school and the shop I worked in after school) and that fence was dead on. However, my Craftsman saw has been a reliable workhorse so far with only the fence and pulley/belt annoyances that have been bad - unless you also count the tilt wheel breaking. Again, thanks for all that detail. Sounds like you put a lot into your machine and hopefully it will last a long time!
Oh dang! Yeah I hear ya on that one. The fence that was originally on mine was always track in 1/8” into the blade. So I got it down pat and would have to measure from the left miter track and push the fence in with a tape measure and make the adjustment for every cut. Was a pain, luckily my fiancé got me this new fence two Christmas ago and finally built up the courage to get her on. Had too many projects I needed my saw for and didn’t want it down for long. Luckily weather here in PacNw and holidays over decoded to tear into it and get it done lol! Maybe one of these years I’ll upgrade to a saw stop or something. But for now rather spend money on dust collections and planners and jointers hahaha
My old man gave me my first table saw last year. The fence was the first thing to go. I got a vega U26 for a good deal from rockler (230$). I have tried to realign the trunnion what feels like 50 times. A PALs will be my next upgrade. I did get a link belt which reduced the vibration tremendously. Aside from my fence, my favorite upgrade was the dust collection. I enclosed my saw blade to direct dust down to a board with a dust collector, and I partially blocked off the opened back.
Thanks for sharing! That same enclosure is what I did and I love it. It creates so much inward vacuum that really pulls the dust into the cabinet and out the dust collector line where as before I ended up wearing half the dust on my shirt.
I once had a Craftsman table saw, it grew legs and it just walked away never to be seen again. A few years ago, I purchased, through Craig's List, a RIDGID cast iron table, that is one very heavy saw. The man said that everything was good with the exception that if it was turned on, the belt sometime jumps off. I got it home and used it and was happy except that the wood would burn when I used the fence. Looked at a few UA-cam videos and went back out to check my blade to the miter groove. The far side was totally out as it narrowed down upon exit. Returned to UA-cam and found out how to realign the blade to the miter slots. Then it came to the motor throwing the belt. Being a belt driven, outside the base motor, the motor mount was bent. Found that the previous owner tightened the bolt down hard and each time the motor engaged, all the tension was placed on the motor mount. Take off the motor, and the mount pounded it out (the part is no longer available) and reassembled. Now I need to replace the pulleys that are multi-groove belts to V-belt pulleys and belt. Not sure what is my next upgrade.
Sounds like a great find Danny. I know my next "upgrade" will be to replace the blade tilt lock handle and the blade tilt adjust wheel. The cheap plastic where the handle / wheel meets the metal component decided it was going to break a few weeks back - so, I think I may try my hand at making a wooden one or something rather than buying the replacement part.
It was some swag the company I used to work for got @woodworking267. I often times wear different shirts between different videos. There are some I've actually made it more of a game switching shirts within the same video and the Iron Mountain shirt is just one of my that I use. But thanks for noticing!
As I look at the saw pulley and motor pulley on your vid you've got the pulley collars facing 2 different directions. One facing toward the saw, and the other facing toward the motor. On my saw 319.228390 I looked at the manual and it shows to align both pulleys with the collars facing the same direction. Away from the motor and away from the saw. But anyway you've described the same problem that I've been having for years. I'll be ordering the pulleys from Amazon but different models than you listed because of the shipping cost. Thanks much for the video.
Hi Vern, Hopefully it will solve your problem. Aluminum pulleys just heat up too much which causes expansion and contraction. It's said that Craftsman used Aluminum them on a otherwise pretty good workhorse saw. As for the orientation, I probably oriented them one way or the other to try to get the standard v-belt perfectly aligned as the pulleys kept sliding on the shaft after working the set screw loose.
Hi @Dennis Crow, The only parts I replaced over time are listed in this video's description. The other parts (fence, miter gauge, handles, etc) were all factor when I purchased the saw. I do wish the handle wheels were metal instead of plastic though.
@user-sg6dr9lt5r the spring for the tensioner goes on the hinged mounting plate the motor bolts to. There are two nubs that stick out near the middle that the spring fits on. This forces the hinged mounting plate to pivot at the hinge and open at the top putting pressure against the belt. I hope that helps!
I originally purchased a 4 foot link belt based on the fact that I measured the distance of the existing belt length. 4 foot gave me about 1 foot extra to play with. To determine the required length when putting the belt on I wrapped the link belt around the arbor and motor pulleys the same way a normal belt would go. Then I lifted the motor so the belt length was in the middle of the tension adjustment. I made a mental note of the link and broken the connection at that link. As it turns out I believe that was 1 link too long so I just removed an additional link so the motor belt tension put the motor back in the middle of the slide again.
@@diggerdeb I had fought for a years trying to keep the aluminum pulleys' set keys tight and finally gave up on went to steel sheaved ones. Make sure your set keys are tight, pulleys don't wobble on the shafts which could indicate shaft wear and the arbor pulley / shaft should spin free without any noise. I have heard that sometimes the bearings on the arbor shaft go bad cause excessive noise and vibration but you should be able to hear / feel that if you spin the arbor shaft.
I have pretty much the same saw. Bought it used 32 years ago and just replaced the motor which cost more than I paid for the saw. Replaced the bearings in the arbor and had saw completely apart. Can no longer get parts for it from Sears. Have aftermarket fence system on it I bought years ago that is much more square and nicer fence.
That is great Kenny. I don't remember when I exactly when I bought my saw but it has been a good workhorse except for the aluminum pulleys driving nuts and yes, the fence squareness. If you do not mind me asking what aftermarket fence did you get? That is one thing I'm still looking for.
@@SeanMoenkhoff www.woodmagazine.com/review/saws/tablesaw-accessories/rip-fences/craftsman-align-a-rip-xrc-rip-fence Here's what I got, but I didn't pay that much for it. I bought it years ago and it was about $150. I can send you pictures of mine. Mine actually says "Align A Rip 24/24".
@@kennyg6482 That's interesting. Mine is a Align-A-Rip 24/12 (no microadjust, etc). It was just the stock one that came with my saw however, I think the guides that ride on the rail near the user are wearing because the two ends of the fence can get misaligned and be off almost 1/16" causing the blade to pinch and/or dig out some from the cut thus not creating a clean smooth cut. I'd be interested in seeing your picture if you don't mind.
@@SeanMoenkhoff I don't use the microadjust, it's pretty worthless. I also measure to make sure fence is aligned. Fence has adjustments underneath to tighten it up on the rails. How can I send you the photos?
Send me a message on my website's contact page ( www.snaservices.com/index.php/contact-me ). From there it will go directly to me and I can reply with my email.
Ah. Believe it or not the surface actually came like that out of the box. I'm guessing during the top manufacturing process they surfaced it using a little too harsh grit as feels like little scratch marks. Every 6-12 months I generally go back over it with 1000 grit sandpaper in the same swirl pattern slowly smoothing them down little by little, although with 1000 grit it will probably take 3 decades to smooth it down enough not to notice the pattern, and then I apply a good paste wax to the top after the so material slides easier.
hey question for you. I have an older 113. model saw. I already added a link belt a year ago and upgraded the fence with th e Delta T2. last night I was ripping some maple and other hard woods and the saw basically shut off. now the saw turns on hums and doesn't spin. If i leave it on for 5 seconds or so it will trip the breaker. The shaft by the motor is not spinning freely? should it? its very tight and is difficult to rotate it by hand. I am definitely not a motor guy, but willing to give it a shot. any ideas? great video by the way!
Thanks in response to the video. Here are my thoughts on the motor - assuming when you say the shaft by the motor - I also am no electric motor guy. If you remove the belt and the motor shaft cannot be spun easily by hand then something likely fell into the motor or something broke in the motor causing a lot of friction. Either case my first step would be detach the motor from the saw an put it on a bench - try to keep it level until on the bench. I'd then gently swap it from side to side to hear if anything can be heard. If something can be heard then I'd see if you can see anything in a vent hole with a flashlight and perhaps tip in so the sound side is down and see if something falls out. If something does then I'd try to determine what it was - wood or part of the motor. If it's wood, you may just need to clean it out (compressed air, shaking it vertically, etc so the debris falls out. If it's motor parts, then your motor may be dead or need rebuilding. In this case you can take it to a electrical motor repair place and see how much it would cost or just get a new one. If wood stuff falls out and the motor now spins fine you can try plugging it in (as long as the motor is not setting on the shaft) and see if it spins up. If the motor spins fine and it hums but won't spin up at this point the capacitor(s) may have gone bad and need to replace. I've never replaced one myself but have heard they are easy to replace and there is info out there on doing it. If the motor spins freely after you disconnect it from the belt then perhaps there's something binding the blade/arbor. As always - make safety a priority and unplug your motor before attempting to do anything with the shaft, pulleys or belt. Best of luck and if you solve it please share back what it was and how you fixed it.
If the motor has bushings, as per the usual with the older 113 model saws, I'm guessing the bushings are dried right out and the shaft is binding in the bushing. Add some light oil to the bushings and let it soak for a bit. Spin it by hand and it should go. There should be little caps that you can remove with a screwdriver on the ends of the motor to add oil.
How did you slide the wheel / arbor pulley off the shaft that turns the blade? I can unscrew the set screw, but can’t slide the wheel off the shaft because it’s too close to the metal side. There also seems to be a key missing.. because the wheel doesn’t fit over any ridge on the shaft. Or there’s no grove in the shaft for key to slide into… Please advise. Thx!
Hi @Rod Smith, I don't think I experience a fit issue with sliding the arbor pulley off. I believe mine had room or was really close. You might try to raise or lower your arbor to see if there's a little more/less room as it goes up and down. I'm not sure I'm following you on the wheel doesn't fit over the edge. Are you saying the arbor shaft doesn't have a key seat? If that is the case the set screw may be the only thing that keeps it from turning but from my experience most shafts seem to have a key seat and the pulley has a keyway that a key fits into.
I used Gates 2 x AK25 Light Duty Pulley (one for the motor and one for the arbor) and the belt is a Grizzly Industrial T21992 - Power Twist V-Belt I adjusted to the correct length. I got them off Amazon. The links are in the video description if you want to use them to have a look at them. The pulley's appear to be unavailable but will give you and idea. I would stick away from aluminum pulley's as the heating and cooling cause expansion/contraction of the metal which was my main issue. This in turn caused the set screws to slowly work out (even with threadlocker).
Hi @NMranchhand, What I noticed over time is I no longer needed to continue to readjust my pulleys and tighten the set screws on them. It reduced the vibration from the pulleys getting out of alignment and wobbling ever so slightly. With that, it did cause the table to not shake as much which did indeed provide for a smoother cut.
So have the same saw I have now bought 2 different pulleys For it using manual recommendation neither fit on pulley Thry stick out past the shaft on motor side Any Ideas??
@paulkelly4202 - does the pulley fit on the entire motor shaft and only hangs off when in alignment? If so, can you slide the motor mounting over so its on the entire shaft? The pulleys that I purchased were essentially steel versions of the aluminum ones that where currently on there so they are close to the same size - just a slight be larger in diameter but since I kept the ratio the same, the blade still turns at the same speed. if you want, use my contact email in my About section to send me a photo and perhaps I could give additional insight.
I noticed your arbor pully is reversed from the direction of the motor pulley. On the arbor you have the extended portion of the pully going on first. This is not what is shown in the manual. I am having problems keeping the pully on and wondering if changing the direction of the pulley can help? or does it matter?
Hi @dannynull4410. I know for me in order to get the pulley aligned correctly I had to switch the side the set screw is on, otherwise, the belt was not in alignment and continued to pull it off the shaft after awhile. I fought this for a while and was probably one of the reasons the pulley set wore on me.
@@SeanMoenkhoff I had to do the same thing, but it was because the set screw would not hit the keyway unless I put it on that way. I could not keep the pully on until I switched it. good video.
Hi Patrick, I ordered mine off of Amazon. I ordered a pair of Gates AK25 Light Duty Pulleys from there. There is a link the video description for the pulley I used.
Sorry @ShahriarNayeri-uk6dh. Unfortunately because I have enclosed the bottom of my saw for better dust collection I could not position the camera below it resulting in a terrible angle, which the only thing you could see was me so I cut this part out. It's tough to get to but I ended up going in from the backside where the motor is (I had it dropped down out of the way by removing the swing limiting screw). From there I was able to get to the arbor pulley's two set screws and get them loose. It took some effort to get the pulley off and then just reversed to put the new pulley back on.
How have those steel pulley's worked out? Many times manufacturers use softer metal on the less important part so that they take the wear rather than the more important part - In this case the pulley versus the shaft. So I am replacing my broken pulley and wondering how the steel ones have worked for you?
Hi @donmorrison7783, good question. So far I have not had any issues. I have not needed to tighten the set screws any and the pulleys / motor have held up well since I replaced them. There has been no vibration or major wear on the link belt (aside from normal usage wear) which is what I was shooting for.
Hi @Yeasir Hugais, my motor has always squeaked like that from day 1 and has yet to go out. The pulley continues to spin freely so as long as that continues I think I'll avoid replacing them. Thanks for the input though!
Mister, you know nothing; you are filing the key because it is too tight? that is the stupidest thing I've ever observed. I ou should not be touching any of that parts with a file.
Question of the Day:
What upgrades have you done to your table saw? Comment Below!
bought a mint condition Delta 36-444!
That's awesome. I've always wanted to come come by a mint Powermatic 66 (I believe that is what I cut my teeth on) in the cabinet shop I worked in during highschool. That thing was a beast!
Sean Moenkhoff I just replaced the angle screw bearing with a 1/2” pillow block bearing and 6” handle I picked up off EBay. The tilt hasn’t worked this easy sense it was new (40 years ago)!
That is awesome. Equipment that works easier is more fun to use. I know my angle screw is getting stiff but I believe it's because of dust build up in the threads because after I initially crank it, it gets much easier!
I know it's been a while since this video was released. But I recently purchased one of these table saw and was wondering how did you mount the pillow block bearing in the saw and did you have to drill holes or did you fabricate something and utilized the existing holes?@@rbwoodwork1890
Rad I like it. I picked up a 113xxx three years ago mint condition. Full cast iron exoskeleton wings. I’ve completely restored the saw. It has been a work has and shreds. Painted base black, added Rockler mobile base with some oak stained dark walnut and cleared. And panels inside the base on the right left and front sides stained dark walnut and cleared. Added Rockler stop switch. Re wired switch and motor with all 12g wire. Added DELTA T3 Fence. Painted cabinet of saw craftsman red, pulled adjustable wheels off polished to a mirror finish. Next thing I’m about to do is add an align it kit, and the pullys and link belt and that should do it. This saw looks gorgeous and performs like a beast. Should last me 20 years.
Thanks for that awesome detail David. I've been looking at figuring out a better rip fence for mine. My 12/24 align-a-rip fence that came with mine seems to track not 100% straight with the blade (or miter tracks). The far end tracks behind depending on which way I slide it (away or towards the blade) which for me is quite annoying because it can start to pinch the wood and leave saw marks if I'm moving away from the blade.
I started out learning on what I'm pretty sure was a Powermatic 66 (where I went to school and the shop I worked in after school) and that fence was dead on. However, my Craftsman saw has been a reliable workhorse so far with only the fence and pulley/belt annoyances that have been bad - unless you also count the tilt wheel breaking.
Again, thanks for all that detail. Sounds like you put a lot into your machine and hopefully it will last a long time!
Oh dang! Yeah I hear ya on that one. The fence that was originally on mine was always track in 1/8” into the blade. So I got it down pat and would have to measure from the left miter track and push the fence in with a tape measure and make the adjustment for every cut. Was a pain, luckily my fiancé got me this new fence two Christmas ago and finally built up the courage to get her on. Had too many projects I needed my saw for and didn’t want it down for long. Luckily weather here in PacNw and holidays over decoded to tear into it and get it done lol!
Maybe one of these years I’ll upgrade to a saw stop or something. But for now rather spend money on dust collections and planners and jointers hahaha
My old man gave me my first table saw last year. The fence was the first thing to go. I got a vega U26 for a good deal from rockler (230$). I have tried to realign the trunnion what feels like 50 times. A PALs will be my next upgrade. I did get a link belt which reduced the vibration tremendously. Aside from my fence, my favorite upgrade was the dust collection. I enclosed my saw blade to direct dust down to a board with a dust collector, and I partially blocked off the opened back.
Thanks for sharing! That same enclosure is what I did and I love it. It creates so much inward vacuum that really pulls the dust into the cabinet and out the dust collector line where as before I ended up wearing half the dust on my shirt.
I once had a Craftsman table saw, it grew legs and it just walked away never to be seen again. A few years ago, I purchased, through Craig's List, a RIDGID cast iron table, that is one very heavy saw. The man said that everything was good with the exception that if it was turned on, the belt sometime jumps off. I got it home and used it and was happy except that the wood would burn when I used the fence. Looked at a few UA-cam videos and went back out to check my blade to the miter groove. The far side was totally out as it narrowed down upon exit. Returned to UA-cam and found out how to realign the blade to the miter slots. Then it came to the motor throwing the belt. Being a belt driven, outside the base motor, the motor mount was bent. Found that the previous owner tightened the bolt down hard and each time the motor engaged, all the tension was placed on the motor mount. Take off the motor, and the mount pounded it out (the part is no longer available) and reassembled. Now I need to replace the pulleys that are multi-groove belts to V-belt pulleys and belt. Not sure what is my next upgrade.
Sounds like a great find Danny. I know my next "upgrade" will be to replace the blade tilt lock handle and the blade tilt adjust wheel. The cheap plastic where the handle / wheel meets the metal component decided it was going to break a few weeks back - so, I think I may try my hand at making a wooden one or something rather than buying the replacement part.
Wow I know I'm late but I see your Iron Mountain shirt data protection I used to work for them years ago. Just caught my eye
It was some swag the company I used to work for got @woodworking267. I often times wear different shirts between different videos. There are some I've actually made it more of a game switching shirts within the same video and the Iron Mountain shirt is just one of my that I use. But thanks for noticing!
As I look at the saw pulley and motor pulley on your vid you've got the pulley collars facing 2 different directions. One facing toward the saw, and the other facing toward the motor. On my saw 319.228390 I looked at the manual and it shows to align both pulleys with the collars facing the same direction. Away from the motor and away from the saw. But anyway you've described the same problem that I've been having for years. I'll be ordering the pulleys from Amazon but different models than you listed because of the shipping cost. Thanks much for the video.
Hi Vern, Hopefully it will solve your problem. Aluminum pulleys just heat up too much which causes expansion and contraction. It's said that Craftsman used Aluminum them on a otherwise pretty good workhorse saw. As for the orientation, I probably oriented them one way or the other to try to get the standard v-belt perfectly aligned as the pulleys kept sliding on the shaft after working the set screw loose.
Sean just wanted to say what an excellent video!!! I am getting ready to go through my saw this winter. Where do you find parts for this saw? Thanks!
Hi @Dennis Crow, The only parts I replaced over time are listed in this video's description. The other parts (fence, miter gauge, handles, etc) were all factor when I purchased the saw. I do wish the handle wheels were metal instead of plastic though.
Good info, thanks. Where does the spring for the tensioner go?
@user-sg6dr9lt5r the spring for the tensioner goes on the hinged mounting plate the motor bolts to. There are two nubs that stick out near the middle that the spring fits on. This forces the hinged mounting plate to pivot at the hinge and open at the top putting pressure against the belt. I hope that helps!
Sounds much better. How did you determine what size to make the link belt ?
I originally purchased a 4 foot link belt based on the fact that I measured the distance of the existing belt length. 4 foot gave me about 1 foot extra to play with. To determine the required length when putting the belt on I wrapped the link belt around the arbor and motor pulleys the same way a normal belt would go. Then I lifted the motor so the belt length was in the middle of the tension adjustment. I made a mental note of the link and broken the connection at that link. As it turns out I believe that was 1 link too long so I just removed an additional link so the motor belt tension put the motor back in the middle of the slide again.
@@SeanMoenkhoff Thanks for the reply. Going to give it a try later. I just replaced the pulleys on my saw and something still doesn't sound right.
@@diggerdeb I had fought for a years trying to keep the aluminum pulleys' set keys tight and finally gave up on went to steel sheaved ones. Make sure your set keys are tight, pulleys don't wobble on the shafts which could indicate shaft wear and the arbor pulley / shaft should spin free without any noise. I have heard that sometimes the bearings on the arbor shaft go bad cause excessive noise and vibration but you should be able to hear / feel that if you spin the arbor shaft.
I have pretty much the same saw. Bought it used 32 years ago and just replaced the motor which cost more than I paid for the saw. Replaced the bearings in the arbor and had saw completely apart. Can no longer get parts for it from Sears. Have aftermarket fence system on it I bought years ago that is much more square and nicer fence.
That is great Kenny. I don't remember when I exactly when I bought my saw but it has been a good workhorse except for the aluminum pulleys driving nuts and yes, the fence squareness. If you do not mind me asking what aftermarket fence did you get? That is one thing I'm still looking for.
@@SeanMoenkhoff www.woodmagazine.com/review/saws/tablesaw-accessories/rip-fences/craftsman-align-a-rip-xrc-rip-fence Here's what I got, but I didn't pay that much for it. I bought it years ago and it was about $150. I can send you pictures of mine. Mine actually says "Align A Rip 24/24".
@@kennyg6482 That's interesting. Mine is a Align-A-Rip 24/12 (no microadjust, etc). It was just the stock one that came with my saw however, I think the guides that ride on the rail near the user are wearing because the two ends of the fence can get misaligned and be off almost 1/16" causing the blade to pinch and/or dig out some from the cut thus not creating a clean smooth cut.
I'd be interested in seeing your picture if you don't mind.
@@SeanMoenkhoff I don't use the microadjust, it's pretty worthless. I also measure to make sure fence is aligned. Fence has adjustments underneath to tighten it up on the rails. How can I send you the photos?
Send me a message on my website's contact page ( www.snaservices.com/index.php/contact-me ). From there it will go directly to me and I can reply with my email.
How did you jewel the surface! Beautiful!
I'm not sure I'm following you. Which surface are you talking about?
@@SeanMoenkhoff the surface on the cast iron of your saw.
The spirals swirls
Ah. Believe it or not the surface actually came like that out of the box. I'm guessing during the top manufacturing process they surfaced it using a little too harsh grit as feels like little scratch marks. Every 6-12 months I generally go back over it with 1000 grit sandpaper in the same swirl pattern slowly smoothing them down little by little, although with 1000 grit it will probably take 3 decades to smooth it down enough not to notice the pattern, and then I apply a good paste wax to the top after the so material slides easier.
@@SeanMoenkhoff I see Remind me of surfaces inside watches or on fine brake open shotguns to accept a light even coat of lubricant.
hey question for you. I have an older 113. model saw. I already added a link belt a year ago and upgraded the fence with th e Delta T2. last night I was ripping some maple and other hard woods and the saw basically shut off. now the saw turns on hums and doesn't spin. If i leave it on for 5 seconds or so it will trip the breaker. The shaft by the motor is not spinning freely? should it? its very tight and is difficult to rotate it by hand. I am definitely not a motor guy, but willing to give it a shot. any ideas? great video by the way!
Thanks in response to the video.
Here are my thoughts on the motor - assuming when you say the shaft by the motor - I also am no electric motor guy. If you remove the belt and the motor shaft cannot be spun easily by hand then something likely fell into the motor or something broke in the motor causing a lot of friction. Either case my first step would be detach the motor from the saw an put it on a bench - try to keep it level until on the bench. I'd then gently swap it from side to side to hear if anything can be heard. If something can be heard then I'd see if you can see anything in a vent hole with a flashlight and perhaps tip in so the sound side is down and see if something falls out. If something does then I'd try to determine what it was - wood or part of the motor. If it's wood, you may just need to clean it out (compressed air, shaking it vertically, etc so the debris falls out. If it's motor parts, then your motor may be dead or need rebuilding. In this case you can take it to a electrical motor repair place and see how much it would cost or just get a new one.
If wood stuff falls out and the motor now spins fine you can try plugging it in (as long as the motor is not setting on the shaft) and see if it spins up.
If the motor spins fine and it hums but won't spin up at this point the capacitor(s) may have gone bad and need to replace. I've never replaced one myself but have heard they are easy to replace and there is info out there on doing it.
If the motor spins freely after you disconnect it from the belt then perhaps there's something binding the blade/arbor.
As always - make safety a priority and unplug your motor before attempting to do anything with the shaft, pulleys or belt.
Best of luck and if you solve it please share back what it was and how you fixed it.
If the motor has bushings, as per the usual with the older 113 model saws, I'm guessing the bushings are dried right out and the shaft is binding in the bushing. Add some light oil to the bushings and let it soak for a bit. Spin it by hand and it should go. There should be little caps that you can remove with a screwdriver on the ends of the motor to add oil.
How did you slide the wheel / arbor pulley off the shaft that turns the blade? I can unscrew the set screw, but can’t slide the wheel off the shaft because it’s too close to the metal side. There also seems to be a key missing.. because the wheel doesn’t fit over any ridge on the shaft. Or there’s no grove in the shaft for key to slide into… Please advise. Thx!
Hi @Rod Smith, I don't think I experience a fit issue with sliding the arbor pulley off. I believe mine had room or was really close. You might try to raise or lower your arbor to see if there's a little more/less room as it goes up and down. I'm not sure I'm following you on the wheel doesn't fit over the edge. Are you saying the arbor shaft doesn't have a key seat? If that is the case the set screw may be the only thing that keeps it from turning but from my experience most shafts seem to have a key seat and the pulley has a keyway that a key fits into.
And where did you get the new steel arbor pulleys / belt wheels from? Thx!
I used Gates 2 x AK25 Light Duty Pulley (one for the motor and one for the arbor) and the belt is a Grizzly Industrial T21992 - Power Twist V-Belt I adjusted to the correct length. I got them off Amazon. The links are in the video description if you want to use them to have a look at them. The pulley's appear to be unavailable but will give you and idea. I would stick away from aluminum pulley's as the heating and cooling cause expansion/contraction of the metal which was my main issue. This in turn caused the set screws to slowly work out (even with threadlocker).
Did it help anything over time? Where your cuts noticiable better?
Hi @NMranchhand, What I noticed over time is I no longer needed to continue to readjust my pulleys and tighten the set screws on them. It reduced the vibration from the pulleys getting out of alignment and wobbling ever so slightly. With that, it did cause the table to not shake as much which did indeed provide for a smoother cut.
So have the same saw I have now bought 2 different pulleys For it using manual recommendation neither fit on pulley Thry stick out past the shaft on motor side Any Ideas??
@paulkelly4202 - does the pulley fit on the entire motor shaft and only hangs off when in alignment? If so, can you slide the motor mounting over so its on the entire shaft? The pulleys that I purchased were essentially steel versions of the aluminum ones that where currently on there so they are close to the same size - just a slight be larger in diameter but since I kept the ratio the same, the blade still turns at the same speed.
if you want, use my contact email in my About section to send me a photo and perhaps I could give additional insight.
I noticed your arbor pully is reversed from the direction of the motor pulley. On the arbor you have the extended portion of the pully going on first. This is not what is shown in the manual. I am having problems keeping the pully on and wondering if changing the direction of the pulley can help? or does it matter?
Hi @dannynull4410. I know for me in order to get the pulley aligned correctly I had to switch the side the set screw is on, otherwise, the belt was not in alignment and continued to pull it off the shaft after awhile. I fought this for a while and was probably one of the reasons the pulley set wore on me.
@@SeanMoenkhoff I had to do the same thing, but it was because the set screw would not hit the keyway unless I put it on that way. I could not keep the pully on until I switched it. good video.
Where did you source the steel pulleys?
Hi Patrick, I ordered mine off of Amazon. I ordered a pair of Gates AK25 Light Duty Pulleys from there. There is a link the video description for the pulley I used.
You skipped showing how you reach the second pulley and that's what I was looking for.
Sorry @ShahriarNayeri-uk6dh. Unfortunately because I have enclosed the bottom of my saw for better dust collection I could not position the camera below it resulting in a terrible angle, which the only thing you could see was me so I cut this part out. It's tough to get to but I ended up going in from the backside where the motor is (I had it dropped down out of the way by removing the swing limiting screw). From there I was able to get to the arbor pulley's two set screws and get them loose. It took some effort to get the pulley off and then just reversed to put the new pulley back on.
How have those steel pulley's worked out? Many times manufacturers use softer metal on the less important part so that they take the wear rather than the more important part - In this case the pulley versus the shaft. So I am replacing my broken pulley and wondering how the steel ones have worked for you?
Hi @donmorrison7783, good question. So far I have not had any issues. I have not needed to tighten the set screws any and the pulleys / motor have held up well since I replaced them. There has been no vibration or major wear on the link belt (aside from normal usage wear) which is what I was shooting for.
Sounds like your motor needs new bearings
Hi @Yeasir Hugais, my motor has always squeaked like that from day 1 and has yet to go out. The pulley continues to spin freely so as long as that continues I think I'll avoid replacing them. Thanks for the input though!
Mister, you know nothing; you are filing the key because it is too tight? that is the stupidest thing I've ever observed. I ou should not be touching any of that parts with a file.
@oloxadik, what would your recommendations be for a key that is too large for the pulley slot yet fits correctly on the motor slot?