Excellent review, thank you. Just like you I was surprised by the size of the tool vs the picture you see on Amazon, I pictured it being maybe 8 in long and thinking how could it be worth the money. Showing how the bolt adapters worked in both directions was very helpful. Looking at Amazon I had no idea how this really worked. Your crank shaft is of such style that you could have used some tools you have to jam it, my sons mazda has only 2 small holes on it. However like you I like to have the right tool to do the job right, there's alot of "trick" video's on you tube to tighten the crank bolt. But after seeing your video I think I'll just buy this tool for the peace of mind and the 10 seconds it will take to do the job. Thanks Much !
Thanks for the comments. It is nice having this tool in my arsenal. I used it again this past weekend on my daughter's Highlander to make easy work of removing and reinstalling camshaft gears and the crankshaft pulley.
I discovered a creative new use for this tool. It was the only way I was able to remove a stubborn bathtub drain. Now, if it would only make fresh homemade ice cream!
I was replacing the timing belt so I didn't need the old one, but I had replaced the cam seal so I had to torque the wheel. I just put the old belt over the wheel and ran the other end towards the front of the car and fed it under alternator bolt, put a breaker bar through the end and twisted it to take up the slack. If I was going to reuse the belt I would have wrapped it around the bold twice and pulled it straight under tension. I torqued the crank pulley to 80 ft lbs using the same concept. This worked very easily and seemed obviously straight forward to me.
I enjoy hearing of other people's creative solutions. Nice work and use of an old belt. I'm conservative and I don't think that I would reuse a belt after using it for that purpose. They aren't designed to take that much tension and could suffer internal damage that might come back to bite you later down the road.
The cheapest most efficient way is to remove 1 timing cover bolt down by the pulley out of the cover and match buying one with full threads but 2 inches or so long. Screw it into the cover thru one of the pulley spokes . The pulley cannot then move. Use a socket the new bolt will go thru for extra support to keep the bolt straight and tighten down the bolt usually about a 10 mm socket. The pulley won't move and the center bolt can be can be removed with a 1/2 drive and the correct socket. Mine took a 1 and 1/16'" Once its loose take out the stop pulley bolt. Use a 3 jaw pulley remover to get it off crankshaft from auto zone free rentals Turn counter clock wise , 12 to 11 o clock to remove
Great explanation of the tool. One question, will this work on the crank bolt? It looks like it may not be deep enough, but I'm not sure. But it also gave me an idea of how I can also make one. I made a tool for one of my cars when I did the water pump but need to do the seals on another. I may not need the crank one but it just looks a bit deeper on the crank pulley.
Shiiiiit, I turn that gear on the cam with a large channel lock and a shop towel for cushion. Interested in this tool for removing balancer pulley bolts without risking using the starter. That usually works, but you always risk shooting metal across the shop. Torch and an impact works, but you could weaken or burn the rubber on the pulley.
I bought this tool on eBay for $16.99 with free shipping and it can be used on Elantra 2008 fuel pump removal. the fuel pump holder has holes to use this tool.
Nice video, thanks for showing details of this tool (thickness of metal, etc.). I am comparing the OTC 4754 to OTC 6613 spanner wrench and wondering which is sturdier. I have wonder if they are really strong enough to remove a toyota crankshaft pulley.
I'm not 100% sure but they would probably work if inserted all the way and not just the tips. Use the largest pins that will fit into the holes of the crank pulley. I've done so and it worked fine.
Need some help here, are you using a specialty service tool bolt from Toyota or do I just find a bolt that threads?? . Went to the dealership to order and they weren't helpful, and they said they won't rent or sell specialty service tools so that's cool. I'm probably really over thinking this but I didn't want to damage the gear
The service bolt is nothing special. It's just a standard metric bolt with the appropriate thread pitch. Sorry, can't remember exactly which one it turned out to be.
The camshaft holding tool is only put it place to tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt. Then you're done with that tool. That is how it worked on my Toyota here. ua-cam.com/play/PLUdzuNFw-6nlCcguzhKhFyHgQ6PEud5o1.html I don't know how the camshaft and sprockets are set up on your car. Typically after you have tightened the camshaft sprockets correctly, you rotate the crankshaft and camshafts independently to line them up with their timing marks before installing the timing belt. Then after pulling the pin on the tensioner and rotating the crankshaft two revolutions, you confirm that everything still lines up with the timing marks. But, check to determine if you have an interference engine. If so, be careful about how you rotate things independently or you risk bending a valve. A timing belt job is pretty easy to do but you really need to be following the precise procedure that is spelled out in the factory service manual. Otherwise, you're flying blind.
Hey sir, im working on the same 5vz fe engine, and I was wondering if this is sturdy enough to be of help when installing the crankshaft pulley? There are two bolt holes already in the pulley, and to take it off I used a 2x4 with some bolts in it to hold the pulley, I just didn't know if this might be a better choice?
+Solomon Snowbarger Yes, it should be. The larger pins that come with the tool are pretty stout and should do the trick. However, the 2x4 approach is resourceful and is definitely cost effective.
Any Honda? For as many years and models that Honda has ever made, I would expect not. It all depends on what specifically you're trying to do and on what.
Lining up the camshaft should not be a struggle. Do you have a genuine factory service manual or online subscription to one? That should described the proper procedure for you to follow. A genuine service manual from the manufacturer is the first "tool" that I get whenever I buy a car. They can be expensive but are worth every penny. eBay is a great place to get used ones.
This particular one is about $50 US. It is useful for many applications but I wouldn't know if it is appropriate for yours without knowing the details.
No guarantees but I looked up a picture of that component and it appears to have two threaded holes that are meant to be used with a puller. The OTC Universal Pulley Holder tool should probably work by using the smallest pins that come with the tool and inserting them into these holes.
Today I started, and I have completed the basic structure, I need to make pins, I want them with screws cylinder head of an old ford 302, which are a good steel, when finished be uploading a video
To which part are you referring? The silver handle or the black studs? The studs are hardened and are most certainly not made of pot metal. You should be selecting the largest studs that will work for your application. Though the studs are made of hardened metal, you should take into consideration that the smaller thinner ones will obviously not have the strength of the larger ones and can snap if abused. Once you've screwed the studs in and through the threaded handle, you're supposed to install the knurled nuts onto the part of the studs that protrude through the handle. You can't rely on just the threads to secure the studs to the handle alone and perhaps that's where you experienced a failure. I hope that eliminates any confusion or misuse of this tool.
@@WorseThanChiggers The threads on Studs! I used the OTC 6613 Variable Pin Spanner Wrench, which is specifically made for Toyota almost double the price than this. It had only one set of larger studs and that is what I used. I have other OTC tools but this is the only one that failed so far. The threads were stripped while putting pressure to remove the cam pulley with a breaker bar. So I had to stop the work because I had no alternate tool. There is no misuse. btw the 6613 comes with no knurled nuts. The original Toyota tool that looks similar to this is around $400. but it seems the price difference has something to do with manufacturing quality.
Ah, thanks for the clarification. This video is a review of the OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder which does have the knurled nuts and might have worked better for you. I can see how your 6613 might have stripped with that design. Its studs indeed have a short threaded shank that do not protrude through the tool. Incidentally, my video of the project where I used this tool also shows a creative alternative for removing the cam sprocket bolts which does not require a special tool. ua-cam.com/video/in4VdfnHdI0/v-deo.html
@@WorseThanChiggers That is a brilliant idea. but I don't think I could take the risk of breaking that bolt or stripping the threads,, which I guess is the bolt holding the cover? I was thinking to use a chain wrench around the cam sprocket after wrapping the pulley with a leather belt to prevent marring. Thanks for the tips though.
Indeed that technique uses one of the rear cover bolts. Their shear strength is way, way beyond any lateral force that you'd be applying. I, too, would be leery of using a chain wrench on the cam sprocket with the fear of not only marring it but possibly deforming it. Good luck with your project.
I just used this tool to tighten down a crankshaft pulley bolt. This tool made the job so easy, I was done in no time.
This video is exactly what I needed. You even demonstrated on a 5VZ :) Now if I can only find this tool locally, this weekend...
I lived in Japan in the early 70’s. I have one also. Picked up a vintage 1973 at a local scrap exchange six months ago. Mine works also.
Excellent review, thank you. Just like you I was surprised by the size of the tool vs the picture you see on Amazon, I pictured it being maybe 8 in long and thinking how could it be worth the money. Showing how the bolt adapters worked in both directions was very helpful. Looking at Amazon I had no idea how this really worked.
Your crank shaft is of such style that you could have used some tools you have to jam it, my sons mazda has only 2 small holes on it. However like you I like to have the right tool to do the job right, there's alot of "trick" video's on you tube to tighten the crank bolt. But after seeing your video I think I'll just buy this tool for the peace of mind and the 10 seconds it will take to do the job. Thanks Much !
Thanks for the comments. It is nice having this tool in my arsenal. I used it again this past weekend on my daughter's Highlander to make easy work of removing and reinstalling camshaft gears and the crankshaft pulley.
I discovered a creative new use for this tool. It was the only way I was able to remove a stubborn bathtub drain. Now, if it would only make fresh homemade ice cream!
I was replacing the timing belt so I didn't need the old one, but I had replaced the cam seal so I had to torque the wheel. I just put the old belt over the wheel and ran the other end towards the front of the car and fed it under alternator bolt, put a breaker bar through the end and twisted it to take up the slack. If I was going to reuse the belt I would have wrapped it around the bold twice and pulled it straight under tension. I torqued the crank pulley to 80 ft lbs using the same concept. This worked very easily and seemed obviously straight forward to me.
I enjoy hearing of other people's creative solutions. Nice work and use of an old belt. I'm conservative and I don't think that I would reuse a belt after using it for that purpose. They aren't designed to take that much tension and could suffer internal damage that might come back to bite you later down the road.
The cheapest most efficient way is to remove 1 timing cover bolt down by the pulley out of the cover and match buying one with full threads but 2 inches or so long. Screw it into the cover thru one of the pulley spokes . The pulley cannot then move. Use a socket the new bolt will go thru for extra support to keep the bolt straight and tighten down the bolt usually about a 10 mm socket. The pulley won't move and the center bolt can be can be removed with a 1/2 drive and the correct socket. Mine took a 1 and 1/16'" Once its loose take out the stop pulley bolt. Use a 3 jaw pulley remover to get it off crankshaft from auto zone free rentals Turn counter clock wise , 12 to 11 o clock to remove
Excellent video thank you.
Thanks for those kind comments. I really appreciate it.
these actually work pretty well.
Boy you are so organized in clean garage
Great explanation of the tool. One question, will this work on the crank bolt? It looks like it may not be deep enough, but I'm not sure. But it also gave me an idea of how I can also make one. I made a tool for one of my cars when I did the water pump but need to do the seals on another. I may not need the crank one but it just looks a bit deeper on the crank pulley.
Yes, it should certainly help to remove a crankshaft bolt.
Shiiiiit, I turn that gear on the cam with a large channel lock and a shop towel for cushion. Interested in this tool for removing balancer pulley bolts without risking using the starter. That usually works, but you always risk shooting metal across the shop. Torch and an impact works, but you could weaken or burn the rubber on the pulley.
Thanks. All very good advice. Do it safely and definitely keep that extreme heat away from the rubber in your harmonic balancer.
ive never seen this tool before but i made one without seeing this video
I have the OTC 6613 Spanner wrench which works very well with a variety of pin applications.
I bought this tool on eBay for $16.99 with free shipping and it can be used on Elantra 2008 fuel pump removal. the fuel pump holder has holes to use this tool.
Nice video, thanks for showing details of this tool (thickness of metal, etc.). I am comparing the OTC 4754 to OTC 6613 spanner wrench and wondering which is sturdier. I have wonder if they are really strong enough to remove a toyota crankshaft pulley.
Outstanding concise review. As impressive as the head gasket replacement videos. Well done!
Will this tool be able to hold the 5vzfe crank pulley enough for the 217ft/lb of required torque for tighten?
Awesome detailed review and great channel overall!
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
Will it hold the crankshaft pulley? I have 2003 Sequoia
Thanks
It probably will. I am not familiar with your vehicle but it worked to remove the crank pulley on my '95 Tacoma.
Great video, I wonder if this tool can be used hold the sprockets in place to reset timing or is it just to remove sprockets?
You can certainly use it for any task that requires holding sprockets in place.
Nice video. Nice Pachinko machine in the background also.
Wow! You're very observant. That was before I restored it and got it working again.
Would this tool be necessary if just using impact driver to loosen crankshaft bolt?
Perhaps not if you are able to get an impact into that tight space on your particular vehicle. I wasn't on my Tacoma.
Thang you for you help from México city
Would the thinner pins this tool brings be strong enough to losen/tighten the crank pulley’s 217 ft/lbs torque on the Toyota 5VZ-FE engine?
I'm not 100% sure but they would probably work if inserted all the way and not just the tips. Use the largest pins that will fit into the holes of the crank pulley. I've done so and it worked fine.
@@WorseThanChiggers Ok, thank you!
Need some help here, are you using a specialty service tool bolt from Toyota or do I just find a bolt that threads?? . Went to the dealership to order and they weren't helpful, and they said they won't rent or sell specialty service tools so that's cool. I'm probably really over thinking this but I didn't want to damage the gear
The service bolt is nothing special. It's just a standard metric bolt with the appropriate thread pitch. Sorry, can't remember exactly which one it turned out to be.
@@WorseThanChiggers you are the man, have helped me and so many ppl out with these videos.
Thanks for the kind comments. I really appreciate it.
This was super helpful. thanks
That tool would be the perfect tool to hold dampersti R@R the crank bolt. Also other engine parts.
So those pins on the camshaft pull hold up against the back of the camshaft sprockets to keep it from moving ?
That's the general idea.
@@WorseThanChiggers thanks this my first time doin work on honda models
@@WorseThanChiggers will the timming belt to rotate around tho with the camshaft holding tool on the camshaft
The camshaft holding tool is only put it place to tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt. Then you're done with that tool. That is how it worked on my Toyota here. ua-cam.com/play/PLUdzuNFw-6nlCcguzhKhFyHgQ6PEud5o1.html
I don't know how the camshaft and sprockets are set up on your car. Typically after you have tightened the camshaft sprockets correctly, you rotate the crankshaft and camshafts independently to line them up with their timing marks before installing the timing belt. Then after pulling the pin on the tensioner and rotating the crankshaft two revolutions, you confirm that everything still lines up with the timing marks. But, check to determine if you have an interference engine. If so, be careful about how you rotate things independently or you risk bending a valve. A timing belt job is pretty easy to do but you really need to be following the precise procedure that is spelled out in the factory service manual. Otherwise, you're flying blind.
@@WorseThanChiggers um I think I got it figure out now so first rotation don't line up the timming marks but the second rotation do
Great video my friend!!! Great tool AMIGO!!
Hey sir, im working on the same 5vz fe engine, and I was wondering if this is sturdy enough to be of help when installing the crankshaft pulley? There are two bolt holes already in the pulley, and to take it off I used a 2x4 with some bolts in it to hold the pulley, I just didn't know if this might be a better choice?
+Solomon Snowbarger Yes, it should be. The larger pins that come with the tool are pretty stout and should do the trick. However, the 2x4 approach is resourceful and is definitely cost effective.
+worsethanchiggers yeah? Okay then, I might have to invest. If all goes as planned I'm sure I'll get my money's wort at least
Solomon Snowbarger AlamZebpkaToyota
What about holding a crankshaft pulley?
Worked great for that on my Tacoma.
Can u used that camshaft holder on any honda or no
Any Honda? For as many years and models that Honda has ever made, I would expect not. It all depends on what specifically you're trying to do and on what.
@@WorseThanChiggers I'm working on timming belt work I just put new water pump on plus new timming belt but I can't get the top camshaft to line up
Lining up the camshaft should not be a struggle. Do you have a genuine factory service manual or online subscription to one? That should described the proper procedure for you to follow. A genuine service manual from the manufacturer is the first "tool" that I get whenever I buy a car. They can be expensive but are worth every penny. eBay is a great place to get used ones.
@@WorseThanChiggers naw n thanks I'm seeing timming belt work not so simple and easy
How much is it?
Is it can be for motor bike?
This particular one is about $50 US. It is useful for many applications but I wouldn't know if it is appropriate for yours without knowing the details.
Will it work on a 2002 Toyota 4runner harmonic balancer pulley? Thank you!
No guarantees but I looked up a picture of that component and it appears to have two threaded holes that are meant to be used with a puller. The OTC Universal Pulley Holder tool should probably work by using the smallest pins that come with the tool and inserting them into these holes.
worsethanchiggers: ok thank you...Super video! Keep up the great work.
thank you...when are gonna show your head gasket video and other stuff thanks
Thanks for the reminder. Here is a link to that 6 part video series. ua-cam.com/play/PLUdzuNFw-6nlCcguzhKhFyHgQ6PEud5o1.html
where can i buy it man?
Cool let me borrow that LOL
As long is this tool ?,i want make it myself
That would be a nice project. It is about 20 inches long.
Today I started, and I have completed the basic structure, I need to make pins, I want them with screws cylinder head of an old ford 302, which are a good steel, when finished be uploading a video
carlos ortega Carlos, did you finish making your custom tool? I'm curious as to how it turned out.
yes i finish
Did you ever post a video of your homemade tool? I'd like to see the result of your handy work.
When torquing bolts on Toyota your work space temperature should be 65-70degrees Fahrenheit, with all parts acclimated.
How much unvesal holder keonksha pe milaga
www.amazon.com/OTC-4754-Universal-Pulley-Holder/dp/B000Q8GVPY
How can you work in those long sleeves? You are going to ruin that nice shirt.Otherwise v. good demo video.
Haha, it's funny how many people comment on my choice of shirts. :)
I wear long sleeves most year round wrenching in a shop. Creeps one cool while the fan hits ya. And arms stay cleaner.
@@michaelrichard4966 I wear a suit and tie while replacing my timing belt. Gotta do it with style you know ;)
It's pot metal. broken on first use. thread is the weak point.
To which part are you referring? The silver handle or the black studs? The studs are hardened and are most certainly not made of pot metal. You should be selecting the largest studs that will work for your application. Though the studs are made of hardened metal, you should take into consideration that the smaller thinner ones will obviously not have the strength of the larger ones and can snap if abused. Once you've screwed the studs in and through the threaded handle, you're supposed to install the knurled nuts onto the part of the studs that protrude through the handle. You can't rely on just the threads to secure the studs to the handle alone and perhaps that's where you experienced a failure. I hope that eliminates any confusion or misuse of this tool.
@@WorseThanChiggers The threads on Studs! I used the OTC 6613 Variable Pin Spanner Wrench, which is specifically made for Toyota almost double the price than this. It had only one set of larger studs and that is what I used. I have other OTC tools but this is the only one that failed so far. The threads were stripped while putting pressure to remove the cam pulley with a breaker bar. So I had to stop the work because I had no alternate tool. There is no misuse. btw the 6613 comes with no knurled nuts. The original Toyota tool that looks similar to this is around $400. but it seems the price difference has something to do with manufacturing quality.
Ah, thanks for the clarification. This video is a review of the OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder which does have the knurled nuts and might have worked better for you. I can see how your 6613 might have stripped with that design. Its studs indeed have a short threaded shank that do not protrude through the tool. Incidentally, my video of the project where I used this tool also shows a creative alternative for removing the cam sprocket bolts which does not require a special tool. ua-cam.com/video/in4VdfnHdI0/v-deo.html
@@WorseThanChiggers That is a brilliant idea. but I don't think I could take the risk of breaking that bolt or stripping the threads,, which I guess is the bolt holding the cover? I was thinking to use a chain wrench around the cam sprocket after wrapping the pulley with a leather belt to prevent marring. Thanks for the tips though.
Indeed that technique uses one of the rear cover bolts. Their shear strength is way, way beyond any lateral force that you'd be applying. I, too, would be leery of using a chain wrench on the cam sprocket with the fear of not only marring it but possibly deforming it. Good luck with your project.
looks like timing off
I am curious what makes you think that?
Tool will not work for a jaguar