Very thorough instructions. A couple of comments, though: 1) Setting the preload of the bearings with a dial gauge is critical. According to MB, the hub should be tightened so that it moves between 0.01 and 0.02 mm when pulled back and forth axially--no more and, critically, no less (too tight will cause damage much quicker than a bit too loose). I admit that I thought myself I could set the runout manually using approx. the method shown here--after all I had done this on bicycles with good results. Yet the dial gauge revealed that I was mistaken. Although I had backed off the adjusting nut carefully and although the hub turned freely and smoothly, the preload turned out to be too tight. After having corrected it with the dial gauge, there was NO difference that I could perceive, which illustrates that these adjustment tolerances are so small that one should not believe one could detect them manually. By the way, with the bearings freshly greased, it does not harm to check the preload again after some time (perhaps after 100 miles). 2) One tube of MB grease for two sides IS sufficient. MB specifies filling each hub with 55 grams of grease. Twice this amount plus the grease needed to pack all the bearings plus some extra grease for the dust cap amounts to just about 150g. 3) 150k on these bearings is not extraordinary--in fact they should not need replacement after such mileage. My original bearings and races were in great shape after 200k, so back in they went with fresh grease, and PROPERLY adjusted. If I were to replace them, however, I would not use Meyle parts. Often, Meyle parts are quite OK, but in this case I would definitely go with the OE quality SKF or FAG bearings--the price difference, if there is even any, would not be worth it.
@Henry Discipline I bought 2 sets of Meyle bearings. One of the inner bearings was so tight I had to struggle with it to get it on. The second set installed on the other side was OK. Ended up destroying the seal when I finally got it off. Replaced them with Timkin and the hub slipped on like a glove. The Meyle bearing was not machined correctly. I will never buy Meyle bearings again. Have used Timkin bearings many times on tractor trailer rigs and never ever had this problem. This is one situation, in my opinion, where an American made product is much better and reliable choice. You can get Timkin bearings for your MB at Rock Auto.com.
@@Ray-hg3ie Mayle does not produce bearings probably are Chinese made the top Tier Brands are SKF , FAG , Timken , NTN , NSK any of the is great OEM to many Car brands
You are absolutely correct on both accounts Sir. I thought I was a whiz until I bought a electronic indicator gauge to check my handy work. It soon became apparent that it is beyond human capabilities to "feel" the Mercedes bearing tolerance of .01mm - .02mm when setting the bearing nut. note: In playing with the indicator gauge against my fingernail, trying to apply the same .01mm - .02mm was all but impossible. As far as the grease, it can be too much of a good thing if it prevent bearings from functioning properly and leads to heat build-up, vibration and a shortened bearing life.
Thank you very much for this great instruction. I just replaced the front wheel bearings an my C-Class and my dad's S-Class. Instead of paying a lot of money we came out at about 21 Euro (€) per wheel. Without your vid we would'nt have known that the bearings can be replaced at home. Best regards from Germany!
you are the best narrator and auto repair video maker out there! This is great, thank you so much. Helpful info, practical and obviously a very intelligent and experienced person.
I love you right now. I just learned about the preload today, I tightened it by hand on my 07 E63. It was very loose and I was experiencing steering wheel wobble. The bearing may need to be replaced, however the tightening solved the issue for now.
Well explained. For the most part, it’s the outer bearings that go bad in Benzes. I’ve also been using regular bearing grease from the local car parts stores. Never had an issue.
Great Video for the novice! If you want to change your wheel bearing, but are the least bit unsure, this video is for you. Anyone with basic tool sense that follows this video will do a fine job. One of the best videos for the non-professional I've ever seen. Well done.
Watched your video last night and carried out a full change this morning. You have saved me a lot of time, trouble and cash. Many, many thanks for posting such a useful video mate.
freeze races a day before and they will drop right in. Liquid nitrogen for 15 minutes if you have access to some. If not your refrigerator freezer will do just fine overnight. You also packed the bearing improperly. Still in all a great video. Thanks bro.
Hello Very clear explanation. I have an E350 2007 with pretty noisy wheel bearings. I sit the same procedure for that model you are working on. For that matter are all w211 chassis all the same. I plan to tackle this job this coming weekend and bought a 12 ton shop press ($129). For the money i am saving it is worth it since I will be doing the rear bearings soon. You are very organized and clean so I will be getting my cleaning solutions and paper ready as well as a mat. Thonk you
my w210 front bearing just completely shit itself yesterday . this video has given me the confidence to take a go at it myself.. thanks for uploading .
Whenever you tap out parts that are pressed in you should avoid using WOOD as a support - the wood is soft and absorbs the impact. You need heavy metal like an anvil or a large bench vise to hammer on. Part pops right out then!
I think you omitted inspection of the bearings and races to determine whether or not they actually have signs of any condition that required replacement. In my opinion, the inner bearing looks fine, with no discoloration or scoring on the bearing surface of the tapered roller bearings evident in the quick view at 12:15 of the video, and the races also look fine in the quick glimpses at around 13:05 of the video. I suggest buying some mild steel punches or drifts to pound out the grease seal and bearing races.
@ cardiologist - I like this video but my question is did you have a problem with the abs and traction control fault coming up after fitting the bearing? because the abs sealing ring has to be totally flush with the edge of the hub I have been told? I have just done mine and it's gone one mm in from yhe edge so my traction control and abs is inoperative
Hi,The video is really informative.Thank you very much.I just changed the hub.The previous hub was turning crooked.But the wheel hub I just installed is turning crooked.What part is causing this to turn curved?
For tapered roller bearings the correct names are: cup and cone. Together they make up a bearing. Outer race is cup, unit with rollers cage and inner race is: cone.
Complete hub aftermarket assemblies from FCP Euro are about $155 each, while the bearing kits are $42 each. So, for the $236 price difference for both sides, you can save time, risk of damage, and the cost of a shop press. While I love saving money and doing as much of my own work as I can, sometimes it's not worth it. Can you provide the part number of the kit from HarborFreight? They don't show the one you used. Also, to your point, the MB wheel grease is $6.44 per tube at FCP and well worth going with for such a rarely performed service.
like this. however, at one point you say "cheap like me...or watching every penny" notwithstanding the grammar, earlier you say one should buy the merc grease and who cares about 8$. that's 800 pennies you've just not watched. it's just amusing. the video's good and i like the presentation. thanks!
Pull the plug on the SBC pump. It takes only 2 seconds and could save you from serious injury. Otherwise, you may have to make a visit to a "real" Dr. !!!
I tightened with pliers,don't do that people.Tomorrow i am changing bearing again :/ in my yard and it's - 10 tomorrow :/ Thanks for video :) I hope it will be good this time :)
This auto mechanics asks a surgeon why surgeons make more money than auto mechanics although they essentially do the same thing. The surgeon replies: "Have you ever tried to fix a car while it is running?" :-)
Well there are many things I do with the car running... but can a surgeon bring a patient back from the dead. I’ve returned a few cars to life that have been dead for years!
Just some ease of removing tip on press in things. You can use a torch to heat your hub right before you knock out the race. Heat makes things expand. It does not need to be red hot. Do not heat the race! Only outer hub metal.
Mine didn't tighten anymore after turning the hub. Is that OK? I don't have time to wait for a reply, so I'm just gonna send it. If you do reply, I'll just redo it if the new bearing isn't already damaged.
You should not have to replace the wheel bearings at 150k. These are lifetime bearings. All you have to do is ensure you always have grease in the cap, and periodically adjust the bearing load. That's it. Also, the spindle was visibly discolored. That means burnt and softened. I would have sanded it off or replaced it.
Hello, mercedes tech here,. your way for tightningen the bearings is wrong. u need to tignten it more to seat it right, hand tight aint enough, tighten it snug and back it off 90 degrees then hand tight if loose, mercedes specs.. :)
you clearly dont know what your talking about. Since i changed loads of these acortingly to the MB specs, and that is as i describe, you need to tighten the nut to a point where u seet the assembly, you cant just finger tighten it like he does in the video....
no you dident say finger tight, but it the video he only tighten them with hes fingers, so next time watch the video before making smart comments on something you dont know about.....
my level... and you call me dummy..... ofcourse you not supesed to overtighten things hence OVER tighen, what im saying and LISTEN NOW IN the VIDEO if you have eaven watched it, he only finger tighten the bearing,,,, you need to tighten it to set the bearings firmly, then loosen them and then finger tighten.... I been doing mercedes7daimler for years, from th little smart cars to the large acros trucks... i know what im talking about, if you look up the work description in MB assyst/xentry.... so dont call me dummy you moron.....
Question. I followed your video to the letter, with the exception of using the dial caliper to get the tolerance of the hub to 0.01mm. Now my ABS & Traction control are now inoperable. I even swapped the speed sensor and same fault. Could I have possibly did something wrong?
@@JoseGarcia-vq6kr not yet. It’s been a slippery slope. When I took the bearings out and put them back in, I reinstalled the hub and test drove it. Had to quickly get back to the garage because the locking nut came loose, destroying the spindle threads in the process. Fast forward 3 months later, I was ready to install a new spindle along with an idiot proof OEM hub this time. I remove the outer tie Rod from the spindle and now, I tore the boot so I gotta buy a whole new control arm. Hell I might as well replace the entire suspension while I’m at it cause all my joints looked flat and could move too easily. Smh
+teachingmaterial2011 I would say so. My car is 20 years old and no rust. The parts are extremely well built and corrosive resistant. Makes it great to work on.
I did this job on my 2007 E320 BluTec last summer and immediately got an ABS error when the job was finished. I don't think it's the ABS sensors at either side as the ABS system was fine before I completed both wheel bearing replacements. Both rear seals with the magnetic rings are new and that's the only thing I can think it might be. Did you, by chance, have any issues like this? Jesse
Christopher, I did not get this resolved yet. I'm reluctant to take it to over to a mechanic because he has a tendency to throw new parts at something until it's fixed. I don't think it's the ABS sensors since they worked fine before and all I replaced was the two magnetic outer wheel bearing covers. I've not had time yet to do a lot of research into this but I read at either mbworld or benzworld that someone else had the problem and it that something had to be either reset or calibrated. I do have to get this done soon because here in Connecticut we have inspections and there can be NO CEL lights on. The fact that Car.d.ologist failed to reply makes me think he had the same problem but didn't mention it. Keep in touch and let me know if you find a fix, I would appreciate it. jessejames49us(at)yahoo.com
In my case I have investigated a bit further with the webshop I bought my bearingkits from and it seems like the kit I purchased actually doesn´t have the magnetic ring in the inner seal needed for the rpm sensor in the spindle to sense speed. So I will try to get them to send me the right ones that have this ring and replace the seals (again). Apperently these kits show up very often as compatible for this car model, but is infact not. It is the same bearing kit for cars that have hubs with toothed rings on them for the abs / speed sensor, except that the seal is not magnetic... which in my case screws up the entire system... I will see if I get those and replace them and see what the outcome is...
I've had the same issue! So frustrating! After my left bearing was changed I started driving and the abs light came on and then came the landslide of no power steering, traction control, abs brakes, and even no cruise control. Basically the car is sitting in my garage since the Wisconsin winter has arrived and the car is a death trap now in the snow.
Try starting your car then while the car is still in park, turn the steering wheel all the way to it stops left then turn it right until the wheel stops the other direction. Then return the steering wheel to the straight position. This should reset your warning abs and other indicators.
I did this job a year ago, as per instructions in this video. Started getting some clunking so I checked the bearing, and what do you know, the AXLE NUT contact area is CHEWED UP! Seems like it was too loose or too tight, or maybe my 28 hour 1,800 mile non-stop trip wreaked havoc on it. If you want an update to this, like and/or comment! Be careful out there!
I'd be grateful for an update. I'm having to replace one for a second time because I didn't know there was a special way to do it the first time. I just wrenched it on until it felt sturdy.
@@michaelrobinson5347 axle nut is supposed to have some wear according to my mechanic. He did a special procedure to tighten it properly. I think the way shown in video is fine as well.
Why guess when a dial/electronic indicator can be bought for less the $50 which pales when compared to having to do the same job twice or more and never knowing if you "nailed" it. note: The .01mm - .02mm tolerance Mercedes specifies is much too precise to do by feel.
hi. i did everything just like you in a video, and after driving first few feet got a light and a message on the board saying "ABS, ESP inoperative, check user manual". Any thought about this? Thank you.
I did everything just like the video also. However my sensor light comes on and goes off. Once it comes on it reduces the speed of the car and then Once I make a turn or come to complete stop it goes out for a while. But you never know when or for how long it will come on. Any ideas?
I've ordered wheel bearings from FCPEuro and when they come in my neighbor and I will install them. I have an 01 e320 with 152k miles. I did this job about 20 years ago on my 85 300d. It had over 250k miles. Those spindle clamp/nuts do not spring out after that long and after releasing the locking screw they stayed clamped onto the spindle. You need a large wrench to turn them at that point. You cannot hand turn them back on. As a result I ended up overtightening them and destroying the new bearings after just a few thousand miles. Not good! The hub got so hot on one side my new brake rotors would not come off and the whole suspension assembly had to be replaced. I am going to attempt this job again and hope that spindle nut will turn off and on by hand. I will have to purchase another tube of Mercedes grease because only one comes with the bearing kit and some antiseize. I will have to go back to see if that seal is in the kit. I may have to get those. Wish me luck. This was an excellent video!
Did exactly this and now my car throws an ABS / ESP / cruisecontrol / tire pressure monitor warning. There has to be a step missing here... E250CGI 2010... Seems like the seal is also the ABS sensors best friend and for some reason now it doesnt find it.. .
Do you have the Part number for those tubes of Mercedes Grease? I went to my MB dealership but they had no idea on how to order them without part number.
My car currently is driving kind of wobbly I am wondering if the wheel bearings has to do with this wobble at low speeds below 35mph but when i drive faster the wobble is way less noticeable?
It is probably the nut behind the steering wheel that is giving you the problem. Go out and get yourself a pair of cheap sunglasses, turn up the radio and get a bigger hammer.
Jack up the car and see if there is any wobble in the wheel, rocking top to bottom. But I think it is more likely to be the suspension or steering, particularly ball joints and bushings, that would cause this.
Ray I discovered... After 2006 SBC was mostly discontinued, some other models still had it. I have a 2008 w211, it does not have SBC... however I will still take precautions, I have an iCarcare MB2 which covers the full suite of W211s, it also has the SBC disable function for vehicles up to 2006 but not after.
@@kevinguy3036 My car is identical to the one in this video. I disconnected the SBC pump before changing the pads and rotors on this car. I am aware that the system could activate otherwise. MB has now extended the factory warranty on the SBC system from 10 to 25 yrs. and has discontinued after 2006.
Excellent video. However, comment about not being able to use too much grease is false. At high revolutions the grease in the bearings have to have a place to go. When "overloaded" with grease, the grease itself interferes with the bearings and generates heat and vibration, often shortening the life of the bearing. note: Suggesting yourself a surgeon is a reach considering your overgrown finger nails and the much needed manicure that awaits before your next operation...
No way I could get the Inner race out. Ended up cutting a “groove” and cracking with a chisel. Still had to hammer it out. Next time I’ll just buy the whole assembly and save myself some headache.
HI. I just replaced my wheel bearing and had no problems with the procedure. The problem arose afterwards. My ABS light came on and the power steering became a bit stiff as a result. I read something about magnets and such. I did not see any of that. Can you advise ? Thank you
I noticed that also. The "Cardiologist" must have done this.....(says there is 150,000 miles on the bearings) ......damn good thing he's not a physician. Would not want him operating on me with those shaky hands, lmao!
Good job but you can improve it Try to someone else to help you to record the video while you are mounting those inner and outer tapered roller bearings. I don't see a thing how they were mounting. Anyway nice video. Thanks a lot.
Not enough turns done on the hub; at least one full revolution for each roller is needed for proper seating.. it takes to be safe 5-7 full hub revolitions for that. Best practise for setting play or pre tension is to measure resistence using an unster and set to factory/maintenance handbook/workshop manual data. This by hand method is good enough for this application though, provided hub made enough revolutions to set bearings..here it didn't.
A big screwdriver on those races works just fine. Just keep it away from the hub wall when tapping it. Those hub nuts MB uses are a problem. I did bearings on my 85 300d and even after loosening the alan bolt I had to use a pipe wrench to turn it off. When putting it back on I again had to use a pipe wrench and ended up to tight burning up the bearings on both sides and ruining the whole assembly on one side. Not my finest hour.
The setting of what you call "preload" is wrong it is critical that the "End float" for the bearings is set to 0.01 to 0.02 mm using a dial test indicator NOT finger tight and back it off.
![How to change front wheel bearing on MERCEDES-BENZ (W211) E-Class [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Y1TjmqLmGGc/mqdefault.jpg)
Very thorough instructions. A couple of comments, though:
1) Setting the preload of the bearings with a dial gauge is critical. According to MB, the hub should be tightened so that it moves between 0.01 and 0.02 mm when pulled back and forth axially--no more and, critically, no less (too tight will cause damage much quicker than a bit too loose). I admit that I thought myself I could set the runout manually using approx. the method shown here--after all I had done this on bicycles with good results. Yet the dial gauge revealed that I was mistaken. Although I had backed off the adjusting nut carefully and although the hub turned freely and smoothly, the preload turned out to be too tight. After having corrected it with the dial gauge, there was NO difference that I could perceive, which illustrates that these adjustment tolerances are so small that one should not believe one could detect them manually. By the way, with the bearings freshly greased, it does not harm to check the preload again after some time (perhaps after 100 miles).
2) One tube of MB grease for two sides IS sufficient. MB specifies filling each hub with 55 grams of grease. Twice this amount plus the grease needed to pack all the bearings plus some extra grease for the dust cap amounts to just about 150g.
3) 150k on these bearings is not extraordinary--in fact they should not need replacement after such mileage. My original bearings and races were in great shape after 200k, so back in they went with fresh grease, and PROPERLY adjusted. If I were to replace them, however, I would not use Meyle parts. Often, Meyle parts are quite OK, but in this case I would definitely go with the OE quality SKF or FAG bearings--the price difference, if there is even any, would not be worth it.
@Henry Discipline I bought 2 sets of Meyle bearings. One of the inner bearings was so tight I had to struggle with it to get it on. The second set installed on the other side was OK. Ended up destroying the seal when I finally got it off. Replaced them with Timkin and the hub slipped on like a glove. The Meyle bearing was not machined correctly. I will never buy Meyle bearings again. Have used Timkin bearings many times on tractor trailer rigs and never ever had this problem. This is one situation, in my opinion, where an American made product is much better and reliable choice. You can get Timkin bearings for your MB at Rock Auto.com.
@@Ray-hg3ie Mayle does not produce bearings probably are Chinese made the top Tier Brands are SKF , FAG , Timken , NTN , NSK any of the is great OEM to many Car brands
You are absolutely correct on both accounts Sir. I thought I was a whiz until I bought a electronic indicator gauge to check my handy work. It soon became apparent that it is beyond human capabilities to "feel" the Mercedes bearing tolerance of .01mm - .02mm when setting the bearing nut. note: In playing with the indicator gauge against my fingernail, trying to apply the same .01mm - .02mm was all but impossible. As far as the grease, it can be too much of a good thing if it prevent bearings from functioning properly and leads to heat build-up, vibration and a shortened bearing life.
Thank you very much for this great instruction. I just replaced the front wheel bearings an my C-Class and my dad's S-Class.
Instead of paying a lot of money we came out at about 21 Euro (€) per wheel.
Without your vid we would'nt have known that the bearings can be replaced at home.
Best regards from Germany!
you are the best narrator and auto repair video maker out there! This is great, thank you so much. Helpful info, practical and obviously a very intelligent and experienced person.
I love you right now. I just learned about the preload today, I tightened it by hand on my 07 E63. It was very loose and I was experiencing steering wheel wobble. The bearing may need to be replaced, however the tightening solved the issue for now.
I'll bet you are a doctor. You are organized, speak slowly and clearly, and of course the creative channel name. :-)
He says he’s a doctor
Well explained. For the most part, it’s the outer bearings that go bad in Benzes. I’ve also been using regular bearing grease from the local car parts stores. Never had an issue.
I particularly like your calling out bolt sizes, torque settings and hints.
Great Video for the novice! If you want to change your wheel bearing, but are the least bit unsure, this video is for you. Anyone with basic tool sense that follows this video will do a fine job. One of the best videos for the non-professional I've ever seen. Well done.
Holy shit man, one hell of an instructional video. Very professionally done. Bravo!
Watched your video last night and carried out a full change this morning. You have saved me a lot of time, trouble and cash. Many, many thanks for posting such a useful video mate.
were your bearings actually bad? seldom the case.
freeze races a day before and they will drop right in. Liquid nitrogen for 15 minutes if you have access to some. If not your refrigerator freezer will do just fine overnight. You also packed the bearing improperly. Still in all a great video. Thanks bro.
Hello
Very clear explanation. I have an E350 2007 with pretty noisy wheel bearings. I sit the same procedure for that model you are working on. For that matter are all w211 chassis all the same. I plan to tackle this job this coming weekend and bought a 12 ton shop press ($129). For the money i am saving it is worth it since I will be doing the rear bearings soon. You are very organized and clean so I will be getting my cleaning solutions and paper ready as well as a mat.
Thonk you
You are a great teacher! I tell everyone if they are not using anti seize they are shooting their selves in the foot.
my w210 front bearing just completely shit itself yesterday . this video has given me the confidence to take a go at it myself.. thanks for uploading .
Could've taped the edge of that flat wood chisel just to a tad gentle on the race. Still a damn good instructional! 😆 Great Job Doc!
Great video, I bought my bearing sets at Rock Auto and they included new bolts & crews & seals at the best price on line. Under $40 for both sides.
I've learned a lot, Many thanks
Greatings from Saudi Arabia
Whenever you tap out parts that are pressed in you should avoid using WOOD as a support - the wood is soft and absorbs the impact. You need heavy metal like an anvil or a large bench vise to hammer on. Part pops right out then!
Rockauto$66.79 Hub. Per side. Great video, excellent Narration, and Camerawork.
That is quite cheap
I think you omitted inspection of the bearings and races to determine whether or not they actually have signs of any condition that required replacement. In my opinion, the inner bearing looks fine, with no discoloration or scoring on the bearing surface of the tapered roller bearings evident in the quick view at 12:15 of the video, and the races also look fine in the quick glimpses at around 13:05 of the video. I suggest buying some mild steel punches or drifts to pound out the grease seal and bearing races.
great work. thanks for going through the detail. that's what I needed to get it done right.
@ cardiologist - I like this video but my question is did you have a problem with the abs and traction control fault coming up after fitting the bearing? because the abs sealing ring has to be totally flush with the edge of the hub I have been told? I have just done mine and it's gone one mm in from yhe edge so my traction control and abs is inoperative
Hi,The video is really informative.Thank you very much.I just changed the hub.The previous hub was turning crooked.But the wheel hub I just installed is turning crooked.What part is causing this to turn curved?
For tapered roller bearings the correct names are: cup and cone. Together they make up a bearing.
Outer race is cup, unit with rollers cage and inner race is: cone.
Complete hub aftermarket assemblies from FCP Euro are about $155 each, while the bearing kits are $42 each. So, for the $236 price difference for both sides, you can save time, risk of damage, and the cost of a shop press. While I love saving money and doing as much of my own work as I can, sometimes it's not worth it. Can you provide the part number of the kit from HarborFreight? They don't show the one you used. Also, to your point, the MB wheel grease is $6.44 per tube at FCP and well worth going with for such a rarely performed service.
like this. however, at one point you say "cheap like me...or watching every penny" notwithstanding the grammar, earlier you say one should buy the merc grease and who cares about 8$. that's 800 pennies you've just not watched. it's just amusing. the video's good and i like the presentation. thanks!
Thumps up!
It works - had a lot more work, but saved much more money. Senseful!!
Absolutely brilliant paul
For cars with the SBC braking system, be sure to disable it before working on brakes.
Pull the plug on the SBC pump. It takes only 2 seconds and could save you from serious injury. Otherwise, you may have to make a visit to a "real" Dr. !!!
why tho?
@@Peter-wo4uo cars equipped with sbc will apply brakes when stationary for safety, but when you have the caliper off it can catch your hands
Great Job . I was going to let someone else do this seeing this video gave me enough courage to do it myself tomorrow. Thanks Doc
Thank you for Very good explanation. Would this process be same for 97 SL600?
Sweet! Just the answer I'm looking for. I'm about to go get myself one of those chisels.
I tightened with pliers,don't do that people.Tomorrow i am changing bearing again :/ in my yard and it's - 10 tomorrow :/
Thanks for video :) I hope it will be good this time :)
This auto mechanics asks a surgeon why surgeons make more money than auto mechanics although they essentially do the same thing. The surgeon replies: "Have you ever tried to fix a car while it is running?" :-)
Yasin Ozcelik and the obnoxious auto mechanic would continue on saying "yes, of course"
Well there are many things I do with the car running... but can a surgeon bring a patient back from the dead. I’ve returned a few cars to life that have been dead for years!
a surgeon get paid no matter what's the outcome is, a mechanic has to guarantee his work.
thank you finally one of the right explained.
Just some ease of removing tip on press in things. You can use a torch to heat your hub right before you knock out the race. Heat makes things expand. It does not need to be red hot. Do not heat the race! Only outer hub metal.
Very nicely done. How many miles have you put on the new bearings so far?
Mine didn't tighten anymore after turning the hub. Is that OK? I don't have time to wait for a reply, so I'm just gonna send it. If you do reply, I'll just redo it if the new bearing isn't already damaged.
Top Instructions! Thx!
Thank you for the great Video!
You should not have to replace the wheel bearings at 150k. These are lifetime bearings. All you have to do is ensure you always have grease in the cap, and periodically adjust the bearing load. That's it.
Also, the spindle was visibly discolored. That means burnt and softened. I would have sanded it off or replaced it.
my E250 (W212 2014) has shot bearings (droning)
Lifetime bearings? Lol wtf
i’m notice that new seal don’t have groves for abs! do you have some problem?
so how many hand tight do you have to do ? or when do know the preload is all set to go .
Are you sure your supposed to pre-Grease the Spinal?
Hello, mercedes tech here,. your way for tightningen the bearings is wrong. u need to tignten it more to seat it right, hand tight aint enough, tighten it snug and back it off 90 degrees then hand tight if loose, mercedes specs.. :)
Nice video but you shouldnt just use your finger .
you clearly dont know what your talking about. Since i changed loads of these acortingly to the MB specs, and that is as i describe, you need to tighten the nut to a point where u seet the assembly, you cant just finger tighten it like he does in the video....
no you dident say finger tight, but it the video he only tighten them with hes fingers, so next time watch the video before making smart comments on something you dont know about.....
my level... and you call me dummy.....
ofcourse you not supesed to overtighten things hence OVER tighen, what im saying and LISTEN NOW IN the VIDEO if you have eaven watched it, he only finger tighten the bearing,,,, you need to tighten it to set the bearings firmly, then loosen them and then finger tighten....
I been doing mercedes7daimler for years, from th little smart cars to the large acros trucks...
i know what im talking about, if you look up the work description in MB assyst/xentry....
so dont call me dummy you moron.....
the point is, hes doing it WRONG in the video, you said hes doing it correctly, the fingertightning hes doing is not enough...
Question. I followed your video to the letter, with the exception of using the dial caliper to get the tolerance of the hub to 0.01mm. Now my ABS & Traction control are now inoperable. I even swapped the speed sensor and same fault. Could I have possibly did something wrong?
Did you end up finding out what was wrong?
@@JoseGarcia-vq6kr not yet. It’s been a slippery slope.
When I took the bearings out and put them back in, I reinstalled the hub and test drove it. Had to quickly get back to the garage because the locking nut came loose, destroying the spindle threads in the process.
Fast forward 3 months later, I was ready to install a new spindle along with an idiot proof OEM hub this time. I remove the outer tie Rod from the spindle and now, I tore the boot so I gotta buy a whole new control arm. Hell I might as well replace the entire suspension while I’m at it cause all my joints looked flat and could move too easily. Smh
@@philware136 i ordered new seals hopefully that works if not I’m going to have to go the same route.
Thank you ,,,,Thank you!!! Great job ,,,I wish good fortune to you!
Very nice video! I noticed that is no rust around the brake area. Is this pretty common for Mercedes not having rust in that area?
+teachingmaterial2011 I would say so. My car is 20 years old and no rust. The parts are extremely well built and corrosive resistant. Makes it great to work on.
+teachingmaterial2011 Depends where you live. Here In Chicago I see plenty of rotted out Mercedes
Good video but Rear Seal should be electromagnetic as it will show the ABS and traction sensor off
great video thank you mani will do it weekend god bless you
I did this job on my 2007 E320 BluTec last summer and immediately got an ABS error when the job was finished. I don't think it's the ABS sensors at either side as the ABS system was fine before I completed both wheel bearing replacements. Both rear seals with the magnetic rings are new and that's the only thing I can think it might be.
Did you, by chance, have any issues like this?
Jesse
I just did it and have the same issue, did you get yours resolved?
Christopher,
I did not get this resolved yet. I'm reluctant to take it to over to a mechanic because he has a tendency to throw new parts at something until it's fixed. I don't think it's the ABS sensors since they worked fine before and all I replaced was the two magnetic outer wheel bearing covers.
I've not had time yet to do a lot of research into this but I read at either mbworld or benzworld that someone else had the problem and it that something had to be either reset or calibrated.
I do have to get this done soon because here in Connecticut we have inspections and there can be NO CEL lights on. The fact that Car.d.ologist failed to reply makes me think he had the same problem but didn't mention it.
Keep in touch and let me know if you find a fix, I would appreciate it.
jessejames49us(at)yahoo.com
In my case I have investigated a bit further with the webshop I bought my bearingkits from and it seems like the kit I purchased actually doesn´t have the magnetic ring in the inner seal needed for the rpm sensor in the spindle to sense speed.
So I will try to get them to send me the right ones that have this ring and replace the seals (again). Apperently these kits show up very often as compatible for this car model, but is infact not. It is the same bearing kit for cars that have hubs with toothed rings on them for the abs / speed sensor, except that the seal is not magnetic... which in my case screws up the entire system...
I will see if I get those and replace them and see what the outcome is...
I've had the same issue! So frustrating! After my left bearing was changed I started driving and the abs light came on and then came the landslide of no power steering, traction control, abs brakes, and even no cruise control. Basically the car is sitting in my garage since the Wisconsin winter has arrived and the car is a death trap now in the snow.
Try starting your car then while the car is still in park, turn the steering wheel all the way to it stops left then turn it right until the wheel stops the other direction. Then return the steering wheel to the straight position. This should reset your warning abs and other indicators.
I did this job a year ago, as per instructions in this video. Started getting some clunking so I checked the bearing, and what do you know, the AXLE NUT contact area is CHEWED UP! Seems like it was too loose or too tight, or maybe my 28 hour 1,800 mile non-stop trip wreaked havoc on it. If you want an update to this, like and/or comment! Be careful out there!
I'd be grateful for an update. I'm having to replace one for a second time because I didn't know there was a special way to do it the first time. I just wrenched it on until it felt sturdy.
@@michaelrobinson5347 axle nut is supposed to have some wear according to my mechanic. He did a special procedure to tighten it properly. I think the way shown in video is fine as well.
Why guess when a dial/electronic indicator can be bought for less the $50 which pales when compared to having to do the same job twice or more and never knowing if you "nailed" it. note: The .01mm - .02mm tolerance Mercedes specifies is much too precise to do by feel.
Where do you buy your parts for your Mercedes e320?
I know this was a long time ago but After installing your bearing did your ABS light come on, if so how did you solve the problem
make sure the magnetic tone ring on the hub is not covered in any grease. And make sure the abs sensor is clean as well.
Thank You for Your time & help in savings
Mines isn’t coming off the hub assembly is being stubborn what should I do?
Very good video 👍
AWESOME VIDEO
Can I just replace the bearing with not touching the races because they look solid non wrong with them and hard to remove
Yes if they are not pitted or heavily worn
@@stg007 thanks for the reply 👍
hi. i did everything just like you in a video, and after driving first few feet got a light and a message on the board saying "ABS, ESP inoperative, check user manual". Any thought about this? Thank you.
Oleg GL i have the same problem as you have described above. what did you do to solve this errors??
I did everything just like the video also. However my sensor light comes on and goes off. Once it comes on it reduces the speed of the car and then Once I make a turn or come to complete stop it goes out for a while. But you never know when or for how long it will come on. Any ideas?
diana nilsen how did you resolve it?
Did you figure out the issue?
@@JoseGarcia-vq6kr honestly don’t remember anymore. Was too long ago
Well, he might have gum flapped but everything he said worked for me.
Great video!
Great content
Great video! Very detailed. Thanks for the effort
is the T30 torx rotor/disc screw common to a 2014 W212 e250?
Absolutely Fantastic!
I've ordered wheel bearings from FCPEuro and when they come in my neighbor and I will install them. I have an 01 e320 with 152k miles.
I did this job about 20 years ago on my 85 300d. It had over 250k miles. Those spindle clamp/nuts do not spring out after that long and after releasing the locking screw they stayed clamped onto the spindle.
You need a large wrench to turn them at that point. You cannot hand turn them back on. As a result I ended up overtightening them and destroying the new bearings after just a few thousand miles. Not good! The hub got so hot on one side my new brake rotors would not come off and the whole suspension assembly had to be replaced.
I am going to attempt this job again and hope that spindle nut will turn off and on by hand.
I will have to purchase another tube of Mercedes grease because only one comes with the bearing kit and some antiseize. I will have to go back to see if that seal is in the kit. I may have to get those.
Wish me luck.
This was an excellent video!
what about the rear wheel bearings? same procedure and parts?
Did exactly this and now my car throws an ABS / ESP / cruisecontrol / tire pressure monitor warning. There has to be a step missing here... E250CGI 2010... Seems like the seal is also the ABS sensors best friend and for some reason now it doesnt find it.. .
+BREILLS DDOG no I didnt. Turned out the kit I bought was missing the magnetic ring, SKU error at the shop...
Christopher Åkesson got grease on the pickups or dirt on the magnets possibly
Brilliant!
Do you have the Part number for those tubes of Mercedes Grease? I went to my MB dealership but they had no idea on how to order them without part number.
What grease did you use in the end if you don't mind me asking
My car currently is driving kind of wobbly I am wondering if the wheel bearings has to do with this wobble at low speeds below 35mph but when i drive faster the wobble is way less noticeable?
It is probably the nut behind the steering wheel that is giving you the problem. Go out and get yourself a pair of cheap sunglasses, turn up the radio and get a bigger hammer.
Ray hello. What resolve your car issue?
Jack up the car and see if there is any wobble in the wheel, rocking top to bottom. But I think it is more likely to be the suspension or steering, particularly ball joints and bushings, that would cause this.
I found replacement parts for this videos project, why do we need to remove the race plates? Worn?
They are matched sets
Being a W211 did you disengage the SBC? People can lose fingers if this is attempted and the brakes activate
I knew a guy who had his right eye poked out and his middle finger severed.
Ray I discovered... After 2006 SBC was mostly discontinued, some other models still had it. I have a 2008 w211, it does not have SBC... however I will still take precautions, I have an iCarcare MB2 which covers the full suite of W211s, it also has the SBC disable function for vehicles up to 2006 but not after.
@@kevinguy3036 My car is identical to the one in this video. I disconnected the SBC pump before changing the pads and rotors on this car. I am aware that the system could activate otherwise. MB has now extended the factory warranty on the SBC system from 10 to 25 yrs. and has discontinued after 2006.
Ray The Warranty extension on the SBC unit was only in the US, unfortunately in Australia we were not so lucky, there was no such extension.
Veri nice
Excellent video. However, comment about not being able to use too much grease is false. At high revolutions the grease in the bearings have to have a place to go. When "overloaded" with grease, the grease itself interferes with the bearings and generates heat and vibration, often shortening the life of the bearing. note: Suggesting yourself a surgeon is a reach considering your overgrown finger nails and the much needed manicure that awaits before your next operation...
No way I could get the Inner race out. Ended up cutting a “groove” and cracking with a chisel. Still had to hammer it out.
Next time I’ll just buy the whole assembly and save myself some headache.
thansk for a good detailed video! :)
It's easier just to replace the whole hub assembly. Cost more but worth it.
HI. I just replaced my wheel bearing and had no problems with the procedure. The problem arose afterwards. My ABS light came on and the power steering became a bit stiff as a result. I read something about magnets and such. I did not see any of that. Can you advise ? Thank you
I got the same issue, after replaved wheel bearing got ABS light on too.. Really wonfer what did i done wrong.....
Why did you not record a few parts.
Cardiologist, Do you want Xentry?
That hub look chewed out where you hit with that wood chisel.
I noticed that also. The "Cardiologist" must have done this.....(says there is 150,000 miles on the bearings) ......damn good thing he's not a physician. Would not want him operating on me with those shaky hands, lmao!
Good job but you can improve it
Try to someone else to help you to record the video while you are mounting those inner and outer tapered roller bearings. I don't see a thing how they were mounting. Anyway nice video. Thanks a lot.
Grazie di cuore!
Not enough turns done on the hub; at least one full revolution for each roller is needed for proper seating.. it takes to be safe 5-7 full hub revolitions for that.
Best practise for setting play or pre tension is to measure resistence using an unster and set to factory/maintenance handbook/workshop manual data.
This by hand method is good enough for this application though, provided hub made enough revolutions to set bearings..here it didn't.
it is not seal it is MAGNET for abs speed....
at 7:41 very funny!
put the hub in the freezer it will shrink metal then do the tap tap on the race with the metal shrunken!
If my wife came in and found the spindle in our brand new fridge/freezer I would be shot on the spot.
Putting the hub in the freezer would make the hub smaller than the race, right? Don't you want to put the race in the freezer?
Cup (race) in the freezer 1 hour or overnight, hub in the oven at 200 degrees for an hour or use a hot air gun
Excelent! Tanks
Torque on my '03 E500 18mm carrier bolts i 85'lbs/115nm, not 85nm
Un poco bastante chapuza al sacar las pistas de los rodamientos; marcas que parece la superficie lunar.A pesar de todo, gracias por el vídeo.
A big screwdriver on those races works just fine. Just keep it away from the hub wall when tapping it. Those hub nuts MB uses are a problem. I did bearings on my 85 300d and even after loosening the alan bolt I had to use a pipe wrench to turn it off. When putting it back on I again had to use a pipe wrench and ended up to tight burning up the bearings on both sides and ruining the whole assembly on one side. Not my finest hour.
Super, thank you
Thanks
Is this the same type of job for a e500 2003
W211
Yes it's the same
it's working on a GLK 350 2011 (i need to replace the back plate) ty
The setting of what you call "preload" is wrong it is critical that the "End float" for the bearings is set to 0.01 to 0.02 mm using a dial test indicator NOT finger tight and back it off.
Great that you still have your fingers! Next time at least disconnect connector to SBC, otherwise you risk with your health!
very good vid :)
swap front and rear wheel if you suspect tire