I wanted to rebuild my Ham IV rotor and really wasn’t sure how. Then I found Jeramy’s video. What a great video very informative. I wanted to replace the connector on the bottom because it was very rusty. I messaged him and he has a conversation kit to a plug type connector so I purchased one. Got it delivered and the instructions were Awsome on how to install it. I got the rotor rebuilt and hooked the control box up and rotor turned very smooth and quiet. I had a problem with my controller meter not working so I messaged him about it and he called me and we got on messenger video together and started troubleshooting the controller. We he had me check continuity between pins and that all checked out. Then he had me check the plug from the controller and found the problem there. I removed the wires from the controller and hooked up the wires coming from the rotor and everything worked just fine. He is very good at troubleshooting and helped me so much. Thank you so much Jeramy for all your help. If any of you need the plug conversation he sells them and they are top quality.
You are a lifesaver man I took apart and assembled my rotor five times my direction needle was not working had the calibration screwed up and you video got it spot on way to go for makeing a great video
Great video! I finally got around to putting my rotator back together. Updated the electrical connection to the plug you recommended as well. Mine wasn't too bad inside but now has all new Super Lube grease and operates quiet and smooth! Thanks for making the video, it made the job easy!
I received the new bearings this morning and installed them in the orientation you show, lubricated using Super Lube and synced the Ring Gear and rheostat as you show in the video and reassembled. WOW, this thing is really quiet now and works great. Thank You for posting this video.
Great video...easy to follow and very clear. I opened my rotor and found all the grease had disintegrated, half the bearing had no finish on them and as you showed the terminal connector was totally rusted to the point the screws were frozen. With your recommendations it is like brand new. The connector kit was awesome. Bought the SuperLube grease online at Home Depot for less than $5.00.
Now I'm good to go and service the same old rotor that's been in my garage for 30 years + as I have a job for it. Thanks for all that advice and taking time to do the video. 73 de GI8WFA.
Thanks so much for the great instructions. Step by step is so good for us novices. I never would have known to move the directional indicator pot all the way over...thanks for that bit of information. Priceless. I got a Ham III Series 2 with a tower I purchased, and with the help of your video put in new bearings, installed the new CATS plug and shined it up. It's like a new rotor even thought it was built in 1977! Fortunately it had been in storage for the last 20+ years!
Jeramy muchas gracias por el video excelente, muy bien explicado. Hace muchos años había destapado mi rotor Ham IV y no lo pude armar en su momento, pero gracias a su video logre armarlo sin ningún problema y está funcionando al 100%. TKS.
Excellent info and a great tip on clocking the resistor and rotor. That was always a PITA for me. Thanks! I use a little less grease, but that's no biggie.
AWESOME VIDEO! I I was wondering how the brake worked and how I could rebuild my rotator. I was considering purchasing a new unit, but the gives me the confidence to just rebuild my own. thanks again! Chad KG0MW
Great, video,got to get my tower lowered,to repair the 10m quagi.perfect time to do the mod to the plug and also fix the direction stat many thanks and best 73 G4SVV
Sorry butthe size balls to replace are 3/8"? Is a hard work find it here in Spain. Finally i found it in Amazon with 1 month of delay! Thanks in advance.
Thanks Jeramy for the detailed video. I dropped one of the plastic bearing races and it appears there are none available from any suppliers I have contacted. Can the bearing be installed without the plastic retainer/race?
First off Great Video! Also I am in need of 2 of those Brake springs and the main electric motor. My motor does not have enough power to keep moving. If I spin the gears and activate motor is will spin a little but slowly quits. Can you help guide me to replacement motor and brake springs. Very much appreciated. N8MJR, 73
Jeramy, tnx so much for the video, very helpful. On the bearings, just regular 3/8" utility grade carbon steel ball bearings? (eBay September 2023 for $31.95/1000). Also, CATS is retiring, where else to buy those bottom plate connectors?
Thanks so much for the kind words. At the present moment I am working on trying to acquire all necessary parts to make up the connector kits for the rotors. Keep checking on my UA-cam video. I will post it when I get them made up. It does suck that cats is retiring but he has been doing it sense 1980 73 Jeramy
Great video and somehow I found it just when I needed it. I picked up a Tailtwister T2X S1 from Sept 1986 that I think is BEYOND REPAIR. Several of the brake "teeth" in the casting are broken away, the travel limit pivot arm is severely bent, the brake arm does not fully extend or is broken, and the wiper arm on the position pot is MISSING. Is this when you throw it in the dumpster? Thanks for the video.
Thank you for the practical, and easy, to grasp explanation, on how to reassemble these rotors! : verry Good ! : i like to ask a question!: i have a Ham-M rotor, and the Nylon/plastic chain that collects the bearings has broken....: where can i get this replacement these days?, and i allso wonder for the top direction pot-meter : it does not come with a year stamp, but i think it is 1977/1978 production .....: i know that MFJ has simular Pot-meters ,but they don´t refer to HAM-M - i forget to meassure the balls but i´m quite shure it is 3/8" bearings ! : Regards from me here in Norway : Thanks a lot for the Video ! Appreciate verry Much ! (y)
I just bought a New Old Stock CDE model HAM-M (CLASS 252-50) in it's original box with everything that came with it from the manufacture. I bought it from the original owner. The ham bought it many many years ago with the intention to install it and never did. QUESTION: Should I open it up and take a look and see, OR leave it be and put it into service? I value your opinion, thank you in advance.
Great vid, I'm in the process of rebuilding my HAM2 and have it down to bare parts ready for soda blasting it, do you use the same grease for the gears and which gears need the grease? de N6OIL
Great video. I have a rotator just like the one in the video. The rotator works fine, except the position dial does not move. Any ideas on what the problem is? And where can I purchase parts for this rotator?
I am redoing my Ham IV, is the video showing the opposite of what I am looking at because I can't reclock it, shouldn't I feel the two tabs fall into the spot and if I have the ring gear snugged up so it won't fall out when turning it upside down, is that too tight. Thanks
Hi Great Video Are able to tell us who makes the 9 pins connectors as Trying to find a Seller in the UK or on Ebay Not finding anything that looks like that so Far. the chap that sells them the US does not send to UK
Jeramy, great video, helped with my rebuild of the Ham-III; Ham-IV and T2X next. (shame about the out-focus sections, need manual focus set). Q, it really doesn't matter which side you set the stop? I am trying to fit the starter cap into the housing, 8 core cable is hard to find here and expensive in NZ. Fitting it in the housing I can use 6 or 7 core heavy core trailer cable.
Thanks for this video, helped me a lot. One question: there was no info on the rotor pot but i think there was only one way to reassemble. There is a copper strip that fits in one of the posts and is laid on top of the rotor motor.shaft and the Rotor pot has a pinion(my words) that fits in the hole on copper strip. Does that sound about right?
I'm would like to get one repaired. It's the CDE Tailtwister T2X S1 Sept 1978. The rotator seems to work fine, but the meter doesn't move then jumps then falls back etc. The rotator hasn't had much use at all. I would also like the different connector for the cable hook up on the rotator and control box. Thanks Dale
Sure. that is the rotor I use I charge $100 + parts. the rheostat on the top is usually $50 and the connector is $30 plus the shipping back you will have about $225 in the rebuild. Will come with a 5 foot cable that you will have to solder or crimp your rotor cable onto unless you want to send me you rotor cable also. And all new ball bearings My email is jeramy_duncan30@yahoo.com
Thanks for the great video. I was able to get my old CDE HAMII Going again. I have always had a problem with this rotor. If It goes all the way in one direction it will "stick" there and will not move. I have to disassemble an turn that gear to get the stop off of the limit switch. It does not do this in the other direction. This was not a huge problem because I just put a mark on the control display and did not go past that but now my indicator is not working so I dont know where the end is. I have ordered a new potentiometer from mfj i hope they have it and that will give me back my old fix. What could the real problem be? I would like to fix so it can go full CW or CCW. Thanks Roger Rockwell
My Ham IV (Dec 1985) looks like it uses half the amount of bearings but both bearing cages look like it can hold all 98 bearings. Should I use all 98 bearings or use the amount that was originally installed? 73s
Great Video - Have an Old TR4 1976. One of the plastic bearing holders is broke and the Cast Base with the race has several deep holes where a bearing has worn cat alum. Also the Rheostat works but is loose in housing when full CCW. Do You have parts? If I send to you, repair cost?? Thanks Much
The plastic race is $12. groves in the bottom would just have to look to see how bad it is. Might need new one have to just look at it as far as price. Do you want the upgrade connector ?
@@Kc8qdq Thanks for the reply. Pits where balls were stuck are quite bad. 1/8+ deep. 4 of them. At least this race is separate and not the body race. balls looked ok - No rust. It has the SS connector Strip which is ok for my app.. Any comment on the Rheostat winding being loose when fully CCW? It lifts out of housing 50% Maybe they are all that way. Maybe not worth the effort to repair?. but Hex is balanced so not much of a load. I suspect previous owner may have used it harder. Thanks Much for the reply
@@peggyleeper1049 if you are only using the rotor to turn hex I would not worry about the grooves the rheostat is $65 new I get the Plastic race from a guy called rotor time. Usually I charge $100 plus parts and shipping. To fix them. If interested you can send it to me and I will see what I can do. I will treat you right
@@Kc8qdq thank you for the info. i called local club to see if anyone has an old rotor for parts. based on their response will determine next move. thanks again
Nice video. I just bought a rotator and checked the bottom for the date and there is nothing there. Are the newer ones different? I was told it is a CDE 2. It doesn't look too old, but I don't know if it's been up or just laying around in somebody's garage.
Some of the older cd 44 s was not marked. But still good rotor. Thanks for the like hope the video helps you rebuild your antenna rotor. Some of the smaller rotors did not have wedge brake
I purchased some 3/8 ball bearings. But now Im wondering if i should use them. The 3/8 balls measure .375. The original balls measure .371. 3/8 balls ate 4 thousands bigger. Is this going to cause a problem?
jeramy is the cd 44 a non brake model? i just picked up a rotor and it states its a cd 44 but it does not have a brake system inside it? i need to order a reostat for it
Jeramy Best Video of rebuild on a Hygain rotor I have seen in a long while I know you use SuperLube on the rotors but there are several of them out there could you please share the UPC # so I order the same stuff I am rebuilding a Ham M and ;want to make sure I get the right stuff for the rebuild WD9GJK
How do I send a rotor in for repair ??? I actually have a ham 4 on the tower.. but I can not climb my tower any more and do all that would need to be done to get that rotor down...
The part number is just QC from cats rotor service thanks www.rotor-parts.com/catalogue/oscommerce-2.3.3.4/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=QC&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0
rebuilt my rotor and put a updated cap in the controller and tested it on the bench and it sounds like new so quite now. BUT after getting it in the tower and all hooked up and my needle doesnt move! aarrggg. does anybody have any idea where to start testing this thing? remember it is mounted inside the tower and it is a pain to pull it out. does anybody know what the voltage reading should be 1-8? 73s all
@@Kc8qdq found the issue somebody told me to check the fuse inside it looked fine to me but i cant see all that good so i took it out and lookd under my magnafiing lens and yep it was blown. works fine now thanks all who helped
@@Kc8qdq I have a 5 wre bell rotor ( don't know the brand) wondering what the average cost of rebuilding one runs with your labor! It's still up on the tower. Havn't ran it for years! I live outside of Crooksville Ohio!
William Walters I charge 100 in labor and whatever the price of parts needed in rotor. The connector in the bottom is $30 if it needs rheostat on the top is bad then add $60. But the average cost of a rebuild is between $175 and $225
Great video. This is all new to me. The video has enough explanations to make it sound doable to me. I got a CDE HAM IV and a CDE CD-44 rotator. The both rotators came with the tower when the previous owner purchased them. I have both of those rotors now, including his tower. The CDE HAM IV was in the tower. The terminal are just as rust as the ones in the video. I thought it would be good to check the rotator before putting it up. I not longer see the terminal part at www.rotor-parts.com/catalogue/oscommerce-2.3.3.4/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=QC&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0. I think it is available at this site, www.rotor-doc.com/specialty_accessories.htm Is there an alternative? Especially now that they are not shipping outside of US for now. I live in Canada so the terminal may not be available to me. Do you have a video on the CDE CD-44? Any suggestion for the ribbon cable replacement?
Great video sir! I just took my tower down in KC and moved it to Arkansas where I now live. It was up for over 40 years and rotor still works, Ham M turning a TH7DXX. I hard wired the connector on the bottom because the screws were to rusted to remove. Run a pigtail out the hole and will fill the other 7 with silicon rubber. I cleaned it up and it, wasn't bad for that old a rotor, but found the ring gear cracked just right of the stop on one side. I can't find the ring gear and seems Hy-Gain is gone, and everyone is out of stock are don't carrier them. Any Ideas are help would be greatly appreciated. Buddy of mine thinks he has some old rotors that might have the gear, looks like the same gear works on CDE 22 to Ham IV, and they make a stainless steel one too it seems. K5EDD@Cox.net if you can help me find the gear. 73 Ed
You are right the gear out of the other rotor will work. And I had no idea that hygain was not able to get parts. This whole thing is getting crazy I called the other day for the connector they said that they was out of stock and don't know when they will get it back in.
I wanted to rebuild my Ham IV rotor and really wasn’t sure how. Then I found Jeramy’s video. What a great video very informative. I wanted to replace the connector on the bottom because it was very rusty. I messaged him and he has a conversation kit to a plug type connector so I purchased one. Got it delivered and the instructions were Awsome on how to install it. I got the rotor rebuilt and hooked the control box up and rotor turned very smooth and quiet. I had a problem with my controller meter not working so I messaged him about it and he called me and we got on messenger video together and started troubleshooting the controller. We he had me check continuity between pins and that all checked out. Then he had me check the plug from the controller and found the problem there. I removed the wires from the controller and hooked up the wires coming from the rotor and everything worked just fine. He is very good at troubleshooting and helped me so much. Thank you so much Jeramy for all your help. If any of you need the plug conversation he sells them and they are top quality.
My pleasure
Jeramy did a great job rebuilding my CD-44 Rotor, My beams are in the air and working very well thanks to Jeramy, You the Man !!!!
I would like to know how to get a hold of Jeremy to work on my TR44. Also I'm having a real tough time
You are a lifesaver man I took apart and assembled my rotor five times my direction needle was not working had the calibration screwed up and you video got it spot on way to go for makeing a great video
Great video! I finally got around to putting my rotator back together. Updated the electrical connection to the plug you recommended as well. Mine wasn't too bad inside but now has all new Super Lube grease and operates quiet and smooth! Thanks for making the video, it made the job easy!
Glad to help
I received the new bearings this morning and installed them in the orientation you show, lubricated using Super Lube and synced the Ring Gear and rheostat as you show in the video and reassembled. WOW, this thing is really quiet now and works great. Thank You for posting this video.
Great video...easy to follow and very clear. I opened my rotor and found all the grease had disintegrated, half the bearing had no finish on them and as you showed the terminal connector was totally rusted to the point the screws were frozen. With your recommendations it is like brand new. The connector kit was awesome. Bought the SuperLube grease online at Home Depot for less than $5.00.
this is one of the best rebuild videos i have seen on this! thank you for taking the time to do this to make our lives easier!
My pleasure
Just hit the like and subscribe lol
Now I'm good to go and service the same old rotor that's been in my garage for 30 years + as I have a job for it. Thanks for all that advice and taking time to do the video. 73 de GI8WFA.
My pleasure
Thanks so much for the great instructions. Step by step is so good for us novices. I never would have known to move the directional indicator pot all the way over...thanks for that bit of information. Priceless. I got a Ham III Series 2 with a tower I purchased, and with the help of your video put in new bearings, installed the new CATS plug and shined it up. It's like a new rotor even thought it was built in 1977! Fortunately it had been in storage for the last 20+ years!
Hay thanks a million. How about a like and subscribe it would help me
Out tremendously!
Jeramy muchas gracias por el video excelente, muy bien explicado. Hace muchos años había destapado mi rotor Ham IV y no lo pude armar en su momento, pero gracias a su video logre armarlo sin ningún problema y está funcionando al 100%. TKS.
This video is first rate! Thanks so much for showing the details especially the bearings and and grease. I have both. '73 WA4MDP
My pleasure
Excellent info and a great tip on clocking the resistor and rotor. That was always a PITA for me. Thanks! I use a little less grease, but that's no biggie.
Thanks how about a like and subscribe lol
@@Kc8qdq I did give it a like.
Thanks a million
@@Kc8qdq I'll probably point a few members of our ham club to the video.
If you would like to purchase a rotor connector kit email me at jeramy_duncan30@yahoo.com
Glad I found this video, liked and subscribed! Thanks for making this.
@@Rick90lx thanks just trying to help the ham community out.
I just realized I met you in Athens this year. I'll email you about some wiring pieces.
@@Rick90lx I was selling them at Athens
I was selling the kits at Athens to convert the plug
just found this video.....helped me a bunch, thanks! just rebuilt my Ham IV. Thanks for elmering, and sharing!!! 73
My pleasure
LEGEND, thanks for posting just what i needed
AWESOME VIDEO! I I was wondering how the brake worked and how I could rebuild my rotator. I was considering purchasing a new unit, but the gives me the confidence to just rebuild my own. thanks again!
Chad KG0MW
My pleasure
Could use a like and a subscribe
Great video Jeramy, Thanks WT9Q
My pleasure
Good job Jeremy. Alway's nice to see how other's build them.
Check out my Rotor E-Z video's
Thanks for the video. Seventy threes is 210.
Thank you so much Jermay, great job, very helpful. You made my day ;)
My pleasure. Happy to help my fellow radio enthusiasts
The bolt thread is a standard thread just not one that is rarely used. It 12-24 thread.
Great, video,got to get my tower lowered,to repair the 10m quagi.perfect time to do the mod to the plug and also fix the direction stat many thanks and best 73 G4SVV
My pleasure
Sorry butthe size balls to replace are 3/8"? Is a hard work find it here in Spain. Finally i found it in Amazon with 1 month of delay! Thanks in advance.
Thanks Jeramy for the detailed video. I dropped one of the plastic bearing races and it appears there are none available from any suppliers I have contacted. Can the bearing be installed without the plastic retainer/race?
m.facebook.com/Rotortime-KT4KI-ken-brownson-395495047208888/
This guy has them
Great video and you've given me quite the education on a rebuild project. 👍
Any URL links or ideas for acquiring a new ring gear?
Thanks. Mfj is a good place to get the ring gear
Great job 73
Thanks
Very informative and detailed
First off Great Video! Also I am in need of 2 of those Brake springs and the main electric motor. My motor does not have enough power to keep moving. If I spin the gears and activate motor is will spin a little but slowly quits. Can you help guide me to replacement motor and brake springs. Very much appreciated. N8MJR, 73
Sounds like you capacitor in you box might be bad Mfj sells the springs
Peccato il negozio rotor parts non spedisce in Italia.
Bella riparazione complimenti
Jeramy, tnx so much for the video, very helpful. On the bearings, just regular 3/8" utility grade carbon steel ball bearings? (eBay September 2023 for $31.95/1000).
Also, CATS is retiring, where else to buy those bottom plate connectors?
Thanks so much for the kind words. At the present moment I am working on trying to acquire all necessary parts to make up the connector kits for the rotors. Keep checking on my UA-cam video. I will post it when I get them made up. It does suck that cats is retiring but he has been doing it sense 1980 73 Jeramy
Great video and somehow I found it just when I needed it. I picked up a Tailtwister T2X S1 from Sept 1986 that I think is BEYOND REPAIR. Several of the brake "teeth" in the casting are broken away, the travel limit pivot arm is severely bent, the brake arm does not fully extend or is broken, and the wiper arm on the position pot is MISSING.
Is this when you throw it in the dumpster? Thanks for the video.
The most serious thing that might be BER is the housing with broken slots. Perhaps a skilled machine shop can fix it if its only a few slots.
Thank you for the practical, and easy, to grasp explanation, on how to reassemble these rotors! : verry Good ! : i like to ask a question!: i have a Ham-M rotor, and the Nylon/plastic chain that collects the bearings has broken....: where can i get this replacement these days?, and i allso wonder for the top direction pot-meter : it does not come with a year stamp, but i think it is 1977/1978 production .....: i know that MFJ has simular Pot-meters ,but they don´t refer to HAM-M - i forget to meassure the balls but i´m quite shure it is 3/8" bearings ! : Regards from me here in Norway : Thanks a lot for the Video ! Appreciate verry Much ! (y)
I get my bearings races from Hygain. Actually the Dayton hamfest has a booth that sells lot of parts. Give them a call.
I just bought a New Old Stock CDE model HAM-M (CLASS 252-50) in it's original box with everything that came with it from the manufacture. I bought it from the original owner. The ham bought it many many years ago with the intention to install it and never did. QUESTION: Should I open it up and take a look and see, OR leave it be and put it into service? I value your opinion, thank you in advance.
I would apply new grease bearings
Great vid, I'm in the process of rebuilding my HAM2 and have it down to bare parts ready for soda blasting it, do you use the same grease for the gears and which gears need the grease? de N6OIL
Great video. I have a rotator just like the one in the video. The rotator works fine, except the position dial does not move. Any ideas on what the problem is? And where can I purchase parts for this rotator?
I was reading through comments and you solved my indicator problem in one of your replies. Thank you, thank you, thankyou!
@@tedrurbach5331 my pleasure a like and Subscribe would be most appreciated
I am redoing my Ham IV, is the video showing the opposite of what I am looking at because I can't reclock it, shouldn't I feel the two tabs fall into the spot and if I have the ring gear snugged up so it won't fall out when turning it upside down, is that too tight. Thanks
Hi Great Video Are able to tell us who makes the 9 pins connectors as Trying to find a Seller in the UK or on Ebay Not finding anything that looks like that so Far.
the chap that sells them the US does not send to UK
Would you like me to ship you one from my stock ?
@@Kc8qdq do you have a email adress I can email you ?
@@MrEdderton jeramy_duncan30@yahoo.com
Jeramy, great video, helped with my rebuild of the Ham-III; Ham-IV and T2X next. (shame about the out-focus sections, need manual focus set). Q, it really doesn't matter which side you set the stop?
I am trying to fit the starter cap into the housing, 8 core cable is hard to find here and expensive in NZ. Fitting it in the housing I can use 6 or 7 core heavy core trailer cable.
No it doesn’t matter what stop u use just be sure u turn the rheostat the same direction
@@Kc8qdq Done and working. Thanks
@@sparcnz my pleasure
Thanks for this video, helped me a lot. One question: there was no info on the rotor pot but i think there was only one way to reassemble. There is a copper strip that fits in one of the posts and is laid on top of the rotor motor.shaft and the Rotor pot has a pinion(my words) that fits in the hole on copper strip. Does that sound about right?
Yes you are correct. I like to clean the little copper strap real well and also the stud that it attached to
@@Kc8qdq Thanks for confirming. It just seemed that the pinion would wear down. Guess it stronger than I can image.
I'm would like to get one repaired. It's the CDE Tailtwister T2X S1 Sept 1978. The rotator seems to work fine, but the meter doesn't move then jumps then falls back etc. The rotator hasn't had much use at all. I would also like the different connector for the cable hook up on the rotator and control box.
Thanks Dale
Sure. that is the rotor I use I charge $100 + parts. the rheostat on the top is usually $50 and the connector is $30 plus the shipping back you will have about $225 in the rebuild. Will come with a 5 foot cable that you will have to solder or crimp your rotor cable onto unless you want to send me you rotor cable also. And all new ball bearings My email is jeramy_duncan30@yahoo.com
@@Kc8qdq Hi Jeramy; Your email address may not be working.
Dale KF0EMH
Great video! what is the correct size of the spheres to buy? any link? many thanks
Little confused on Spheres
Are you asking about ring gear ?
rotor-parts.com/
@@Kc8qdq Many thanks. Any information abaout ring gear (steal)?
@@PauloPY3OC I have never tried to seal them up. It is a thought though I would use some silicone maybe 🤔
Thanks for the great video. I was able to get my old CDE HAMII Going again. I have always had a problem with this rotor. If It goes all the way in one direction it will "stick" there and will not move. I have to disassemble an turn that gear to get the stop off of the limit switch. It does not do this in the other direction. This was not a huge problem because I just put a mark on the control display and did not go past that but now my indicator is not working so I dont know where the end is. I have ordered a new potentiometer from mfj
i hope they have it and that will give me back my old fix. What could the real problem be? I would like to fix so it can go full CW or CCW. Thanks Roger Rockwell
Sounds like the limit switch’s are backwards.
My Ham IV (Dec 1985) looks like it uses half the amount of bearings but both bearing cages look like it can hold all 98 bearings. Should I use all 98 bearings or use the amount that was originally installed? 73s
I always like to fill them all up
Great Video - Have an Old TR4 1976. One of the plastic bearing holders is broke and the Cast Base with the race has several deep holes where a bearing has worn cat alum. Also the Rheostat works but is loose in housing when full CCW. Do You have parts? If I send to you, repair cost?? Thanks Much
The plastic race is $12. groves in the bottom would just have to look to see how bad it is. Might need new one have to just look at it as far as price. Do you want the upgrade connector ?
@@Kc8qdq Thanks for the reply. Pits where balls were stuck are quite bad. 1/8+ deep. 4 of them. At least this race is separate and not the body race. balls looked ok - No rust. It has the SS connector Strip which is ok for my app.. Any comment on the Rheostat winding being loose when fully CCW? It lifts out of housing 50% Maybe they are all that way. Maybe not worth the effort to repair?. but Hex is balanced so not much of a load. I suspect previous owner may have used it harder. Thanks Much for the reply
@@peggyleeper1049 if you are only using the rotor to turn hex I would not worry about the grooves the rheostat is $65 new I get the Plastic race from a guy called rotor time. Usually I charge $100 plus parts and shipping. To fix them. If interested you can send it to me and I will see what I can do. I will treat you right
@@Kc8qdq thank you for the info. i called local club to see if anyone has an old rotor for parts. based on their response will determine next move. thanks again
@@peggyleeper1049 my pleasure
Very informative video
Good presentation
Thanks
excellent job!
Nice video. I just bought a rotator and checked the bottom for the date and there is nothing there. Are the newer ones different? I was told it is a CDE 2. It doesn't look too old, but I don't know if it's been up or just laying around in somebody's garage.
Some of the older cd 44 s was not marked. But still good rotor. Thanks for the like hope the video helps you rebuild your antenna rotor. Some of the smaller rotors did not have wedge brake
@@Kc8qdq Figured out it is a Ham M. It has the numbers 5 126 on the bottom.
I purchased some 3/8 ball bearings. But now Im wondering if i should use them. The 3/8 balls measure .375. The original balls measure .371. 3/8 balls ate 4 thousands bigger. Is this going to cause a problem?
No I have put them in all of my rotors without a problem
5033501 is the Hygain part # that says 3/8 ball bearing
Maybe the old ones was worn
jeramy is the cd 44 a non brake model? i just picked up a rotor and it states its a cd 44 but it does not have a brake system inside it? i need to order a reostat for it
Yes the cd 44 does not have a brake
Mfj has the resistor
Excellent !!
Jeramy Best Video of rebuild on a Hygain rotor I have seen in a long while I know you use SuperLube on the rotors but there are several of them out there could you please share the UPC # so I order the same stuff I am rebuilding a Ham M and ;want to make sure I get the right stuff for the rebuild WD9GJK
82353 21030
Thank you!
Good stuff!
Do you know where get some used reduction gears for hygain rotors
I have a set $50 plus shipping
How do I send a rotor in for repair ??? I actually have a ham 4 on the tower.. but I can not climb my tower any more and do all that would need to be done to get that rotor down...
10847 walnut street Glouster Ohio 45732
Email is jeramy_duncan30@yahoo.com
We can talk more about what you have wrong
on the ham 4 the brake releases, but it doesn't turn, similar with the other one...
What is the part number for the 9-pin connector and where do I find it?
www.rotor-parts.com/catalogue/oscommerce-2.3.3.4/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_32&products_id=43
Cats rotor repair
Where can you get the replacement springs?
Try calling Hygain Mfj sometimes it’s hard to get parts now.
Can I use stainless steel ball barings thanks
@@hankrandall3888 yes there is no reason you couldn’t use stainless
Love the intro
The connectors are back in
Hi Where can I get hold of the conector set you shown? E Bay? Hope you can guide me :=)
www.rotor-parts.com/catalogue/oscommerce-2.3.3.4/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=QC&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0
The part # is QC
What do you charge to do a ham iv ?
$100 plus parts and shipping
Could you give me the part # for the cinch connector? And is the manufacturer C.A.T.S Controllers? I can't find them online. Thank you...73
The part number is just QC from cats rotor service thanks
www.rotor-parts.com/catalogue/oscommerce-2.3.3.4/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=QC&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0
Where can i purchase the connector?
www.rotor-parts.com/catalogue/oscommerce-2.3.3.4/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Qc&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0
Looks like he is out of stock for now
Where can I get the plastic bearing race?
Keep calling Mfj I called for 2 months finally got through to order a new resistor for the indicator
@@Kc8qdq thank you
Would you happen to have their number or contact?
@@squeakskw 1-662-323-9538
@@Kc8qdq thank you
Sir can i buy from your place about antenna rotator
Are you looking to buy a rotor. Or get your rotor repaired?
Hi, good video ! Do you know a source to buy a ring gear ? 73
MFJ
rebuilt my rotor and put a updated cap in the controller and tested it on the bench and it sounds like new so quite now. BUT after getting it in the tower and all hooked up and my needle doesnt move! aarrggg. does anybody have any idea where to start testing this thing? remember it is mounted inside the tower and it is a pain to pull it out. does anybody know what the voltage reading should be 1-8? 73s all
Be sure you don’t have the calibration button pushed in
@@Kc8qdq it isnt thanks
@@Kc8qdq found the issue somebody told me to check the fuse inside it looked fine to me but i cant see all that good so i took it out and lookd under my magnafiing lens and yep it was blown. works fine now thanks all who helped
Where is your shop located ?
110 north plains Rd plains Ohio 45780
@@Kc8qdq I have a 5 wre bell rotor ( don't know the brand) wondering what the average cost of rebuilding one runs with your labor! It's still up on the tower. Havn't ran it for years! I live outside of Crooksville Ohio!
William Walters I charge 100 in labor and whatever the price of parts needed in rotor. The connector in the bottom is $30 if it needs rheostat on the top is bad then add $60. But the average cost of a rebuild is between $175 and $225
Jeremy I have a Hygain CDE TR44 Rotor would like it repaired. Can you provide you address so I can send it to you. Thank you
10847 walnut street glouster ohio 45732
Jeremy I want to make sure the rotor is a Hygain, on it is TR44 SER 3 234. Is this a Hygain rotor?
@@dorothykenner2577 is it an 8 wire rotor ?
Yes it is
@@dorothykenner2577 yes it is a hygain
Greetings Jeramy:
TOOOBES with HAAANDLES RULE !!!
73
pro trick : you can watch movies at Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching a lot of movies during the lockdown.
@Deacon Jacob Yea, I have been using Flixzone for since november myself :D
grease is grease axle grease is fine to rebuild them with why do people insist on 1 greasable trap dirt but the other won't LOL
Humm
@@Kc8qdq im just saying no pun intandid
@@Kc8qdq my rheostat only reads 330ohm on my ham5 and the needle only moves a little bit on the control box
@@jtsgarage2999 sounds like a bad rheostat but usually it is open. Check the wiper to chassis it should be a short
@@Kc8qdq it works but only moves the niddle a little so i dont no i might change both
"73" IZ8MNS...
IMHO your intro is far too long. 15 seconds would be better
Thanks for watching
Jeramy, do you repair all makes? Would you mind giving me your email?
I just repair hygain makes
Great video. This is all new to me. The video has enough explanations to make it sound doable to me.
I got a CDE HAM IV and a CDE CD-44 rotator. The both rotators came with the tower when the previous owner purchased them. I have both of those rotors now, including his tower. The CDE HAM IV was in the tower. The terminal are just as rust as the ones in the video. I thought it would be good to check the rotator before putting it up.
I not longer see the terminal part at www.rotor-parts.com/catalogue/oscommerce-2.3.3.4/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=QC&search_in_description=1&x=0&y=0.
I think it is available at this site, www.rotor-doc.com/specialty_accessories.htm
Is there an alternative? Especially now that they are not shipping outside of US for now. I live in Canada so the terminal may not be available to me.
Do you have a video on the CDE CD-44? Any suggestion for the ribbon cable replacement?
Great video sir!
I just took my tower down in KC and moved it to Arkansas where I now live. It was up for over 40 years and rotor still works, Ham M turning a TH7DXX.
I hard wired the connector on the bottom because the screws were to rusted to remove. Run a pigtail out the hole and will fill the other 7 with silicon rubber.
I cleaned it up and it, wasn't bad for that old a rotor, but found the ring gear cracked just right of the stop on one side. I can't find the ring gear and seems Hy-Gain is gone, and everyone is out of stock are don't carrier them.
Any Ideas are help would be greatly appreciated. Buddy of mine thinks he has some old rotors that might have the gear, looks like the same gear works on CDE 22 to Ham IV, and they make a stainless steel one too it seems.
K5EDD@Cox.net if you can help me find the gear.
73
Ed
You are right the gear out of the other rotor will work. And I had no idea that hygain was not able to get parts. This whole thing is getting crazy I called the other day for the connector they said that they was out of stock and don't know when they will get it back in.