Outstanding directions and video! I’ve never done anything like this and I bought a cheap kit off Amazon and was able to fix the problem in no time! Thank you!
This is my exact issue. I haven't taken my Jet filter apart, but looking at that capacitor on the board, it's spent. You can also test the fan capacitor with a multimeter to see if it is within spec, but good its just a capacitor issue and a super cheap fix.
I want to add something. There is absolutely potentially lethal voltage still in that system. The start capacitor on that motor can retain full voltage. Remember that a capacitor even though it passes AC voltage, is still cycling the electrical field on the plates. And it's doing so to peak waveform not RMS. So if you disconnect that system at the peak AC, then the capacitor plates potentially have 170v stored on them. Many systems might have bleed down resistors. But I wouldn't count on it. Just running in there and disconnecting that capacitor with bare hands could definitely hurt you seriously. Always correctly discharge a start or run capacitor before handling it.
Hello Dan! I apologize because I don't know much about the English language, but I am Spanish and I translate everything with Google Translator. Another user said that you should always properly discharge a starting or running capacitor before handling it. You say that it is a good idea to run a screwdriver through the cables in the covers before touching them. I don't quite understand that exactly. What cables are they exactly? What cover are you referring to? Could you be a little more specific, please? By the way! I have the same problem and thanks to your video I now know how to repair my Jet AFS 500, changing the two capacitors, the one on the board and the one on the motor. I had been thinking for a long time that it was the motor capacitor because it doesn't turn properly and searching around here, I found your video and for that I thank you. Thank you very much, really. Starting today I follow your channel! and you have my like for your video! A hug!
Hey Carlos, thanks for the post. The idea of running the screwdriver through the caps is to short them out. Touch both leads of the cap to the metal of the screwdriver without touching it yourself. This shorts out the energy in the capacitor so you don't get shocked. Let me know your repair comes out!
@@DansWay I understand the reason, but what I don't know is what cables you are referring to. What cables are they exactly? Could you post a photo, please?
I've got slow rotation under power, but the impeller spins freely by hand, so I'm ordering the replacement capacitor. Given the vibration, which you called out for the circuit board, I plan on using crimped connection instead of wire nuts, because a wire nut at that location, above and inside the cage, could get sucked right into the impeller cage if either were to vibrate off its twisted splice.
@@DansWay Time and money being somewhat fungible I ordered motor and controller capacitors at the same time. The motor caps came as a pair. The controller 2200uF, 16V electrolytic capacitors were out of stock but the original rating 2200uF, 10V were available (min quantity 10). Looking at the underside of the original board electrolytic, it had leaked, so I replaced that first. With everything on the bench, I reconnected and tested. It spun up and ran in all three speeds. The controller is a mixed analog and digital board, with a triac for each motor speed connected to the corresponding motor wiring, and a microcontroller for things like the remote and timing, and a brew of components between to trigger the speed-appropriate triac either indefinitely or until the timeout period has elapsed. (My unit, label plate date 11/2002, was "as is" without the remote so I have not tested the timer function Remotes seem readily available for about $50 USD.) Since I had the unit apart, and the prior owner had stored it for perhaps years filter down, fan up, somewhere dirty and damp gathering crud, I took it upon myself to continue the cleaning by marking the fan impeller's position on the shaft (turned out it was on a flat, but that was only visible once I had it off), removing the impeller, taping over the shaft hole, and put the impeller through the dishwasher's pots and pans, high temperature scrub overnight. I cleaned the tacky film and assorted tiny debris off the inside of the volute, and cleaned the inside of the overall case. The next day, June 3, I reassembled the fan, reinstalled that in the case, reinstalled the motor controller, and finally put the inner filter back in place, and installed a new outer filter. I just need to touch up some paint flaking and case rust on the filter end, the end the unit had rested on while in storage for several years. It worked fine today when I was smoothing a rather rough cut scrap of 2x4 using 80 grit on a belt sander. Now I just need to put a note with all the extra capacitors, and not mislay the small bubble-pack mailer. Perhaps I'll attach it to the unit's power cord once I put it some place more permanent than stacked on the (blade retracted) table saw.
Thanks Mine work for awhile then stop and my lights on the front weren't working correctly. So I changed the capacitor on the control board and it's good as new. Thanks again
My friend gave me his Jet filtration just like yours. Had it in the garage for couple years and finally took it for a run.... Mine does nothing no lights or anything. The capacitor is bulging slightly like you showed yours. I had just shown my son that same bulging just priort to finding your gem of a video. Thanks for posting! If I am not getting any lights whatsoever but do have 120 power past the fuse then I have another issue than just the capacitor right? Power supply too maybe? Well I ordered the parts and will see.. thanks so much for posting... amazing how i watched this after doing the exact same disassembly of mine! Internet is amazing. Will let you know the outcome! Thanks again!
Thanks for the comments. Let me know how it turns out. If that cap is totally gone, perhaps you will get no lights, but it could be a bad power supply as well. Will be interesting to find out what you find.
@@DansWay- well Dan kinda like I expected replacing the one barrel capacitor didn’t do anything. The old one was definitely bad. Now I’m trying to source the more rectangular orange capacitor that’s next to the barrel capacitor. I think that’s another thing that can go bad. I hope the motor up directly and it runs fine, so it’s definitely the circuit board. Any ideas? I feel like since there’s no lights whatsoever on the LEDs. There’s some issue with the power supply. Validated power is past the in-line fuse so the board is getting power. Other than the capacitors, I’m not really sure what else could’ve failed on the board. The motor capacitor is good as well any ideas would be appreciated
@@DansWay- well bought a standard 3 position rotary switch for 10 bucks. Wired directly and mount just to the left of the control board. Works great! Did your unit have 4 styrofoam squares in the interior? Mine did. Inside of sealed plastic covers. Guess it’s trying to reduce the volume inside the box?? Thought it was a little strange
It doesn’t flash. I hold the button down and the motor starts turning and will increase speed if I keep holding the button down. It used to stay running. Now when I do that, it just dies.
@@dickiebrewer1232 Ok, so that is definitely the large square motor 'run' capacitor mounted to the motor. Pull it out and buy one with the same specs (xxMFD or xxUFD, xxVAC). You can start here as an example: geni.us/20uF_Motor_Cap
Your video helped me bring back my Jet air filtration. Thanks! I had the same problem with the controller board capacitor with the classic sign of a bulged end. Used your amazon links to purchased products and help you out a little. This seems to be a common problem for the Jet as there were other videos on the same subject...a sign for the manufacture to look at their component choice.
@@DansWay I think you covered it well and explained how to trouble shoot either the control board or motor capacitors. In another UA-cam video about the Jet dust collector I watched the person replaced the "other" capacitor on the board, the orange rectangle component to the left of the cylinder shaped capacitor. Had similar symptoms. I did not know how to test if this one was bad...I don't have much experience with electronic control boards.
Great video! My problem is weird. If I repeated press the on/off switch the fan starts moving and each click speeds it up, but when I stop pressing it the fan slows to a stop. Which capacitor would cause that? I am assuming it is the run capacitor on the fan, but I thought I would ask before taking it apart. Thank from a new subscriber!
Outstanding directions and video! I’ve never done anything like this and I bought a cheap kit off Amazon and was able to fix the problem in no time! Thank you!
Hey there, so glad this video was helpful! Congratulations on tacking something new as well.
@@DansWay thank you!
Thanks for posting this! Had the same issue as you and it was the board capacitor. It was bulging like you showed so i just bought them and it works!
Awesome! So glad this was helpful to you. Same symptoms?
This is my exact issue. I haven't taken my Jet filter apart, but looking at that capacitor on the board, it's spent. You can also test the fan capacitor with a multimeter to see if it is within spec, but good its just a capacitor issue and a super cheap fix.
So glad this video was helpful. 👍🏼
I want to add something. There is absolutely potentially lethal voltage still in that system. The start capacitor on that motor can retain full voltage. Remember that a capacitor even though it passes AC voltage, is still cycling the electrical field on the plates. And it's doing so to peak waveform not RMS. So if you disconnect that system at the peak AC, then the capacitor plates potentially have 170v stored on them. Many systems might have bleed down resistors. But I wouldn't count on it. Just running in there and disconnecting that capacitor with bare hands could definitely hurt you seriously. Always correctly discharge a start or run capacitor before handling it.
Thanks for saying this. It is true that you should run a screwdriver across the leads of the caps before touching them.
Hello Dan! I apologize because I don't know much about the English language, but I am Spanish and I translate everything with Google Translator. Another user said that you should always properly discharge a starting or running capacitor before handling it. You say that it is a good idea to run a screwdriver through the cables in the covers before touching them. I don't quite understand that exactly. What cables are they exactly? What cover are you referring to? Could you be a little more specific, please? By the way! I have the same problem and thanks to your video I now know how to repair my Jet AFS 500, changing the two capacitors, the one on the board and the one on the motor. I had been thinking for a long time that it was the motor capacitor because it doesn't turn properly and searching around here, I found your video and for that I thank you. Thank you very much, really. Starting today I follow your channel! and you have my like for your video! A hug!
Hey Carlos, thanks for the post. The idea of running the screwdriver through the caps is to short them out. Touch both leads of the cap to the metal of the screwdriver without touching it yourself. This shorts out the energy in the capacitor so you don't get shocked. Let me know your repair comes out!
@@DansWay I understand the reason, but what I don't know is what cables you are referring to. What cables are they exactly? Could you post a photo, please?
I've got slow rotation under power, but the impeller spins freely by hand, so I'm ordering the replacement capacitor. Given the vibration, which you called out for the circuit board, I plan on using crimped connection instead of wire nuts, because a wire nut at that location, above and inside the cage, could get sucked right into the impeller cage if either were to vibrate off its twisted splice.
Sounds like a plan Fred. Please let me know if this works for you!
@@DansWay Time and money being somewhat fungible I ordered motor and controller capacitors at the same time. The motor caps came as a pair. The controller 2200uF, 16V electrolytic capacitors were out of stock but the original rating 2200uF, 10V were available (min quantity 10).
Looking at the underside of the original board electrolytic, it had leaked, so I replaced that first. With everything on the bench, I reconnected and tested. It spun up and ran in all three speeds. The controller is a mixed analog and digital board, with a triac for each motor speed connected to the corresponding motor wiring, and a microcontroller for things like the remote and timing, and a brew of components between to trigger the speed-appropriate triac either indefinitely or until the timeout period has elapsed. (My unit, label plate date 11/2002, was "as is" without the remote so I have not tested the timer function Remotes seem readily available for about $50 USD.)
Since I had the unit apart, and the prior owner had stored it for perhaps years filter down, fan up, somewhere dirty and damp gathering crud, I took it upon myself to continue the cleaning by marking the fan impeller's position on the shaft (turned out it was on a flat, but that was only visible once I had it off), removing the impeller, taping over the shaft hole, and put the impeller through the dishwasher's pots and pans, high temperature scrub overnight. I cleaned the tacky film and assorted tiny debris off the inside of the volute, and cleaned the inside of the overall case.
The next day, June 3, I reassembled the fan, reinstalled that in the case, reinstalled the motor controller, and finally put the inner filter back in place, and installed a new outer filter.
I just need to touch up some paint flaking and case rust on the filter end, the end the unit had rested on while in storage for several years. It worked fine today when I was smoothing a rather rough cut scrap of 2x4 using 80 grit on a belt sander.
Now I just need to put a note with all the extra capacitors, and not mislay the small bubble-pack mailer. Perhaps I'll attach it to the unit's power cord once I put it some place more permanent than stacked on the (blade retracted) table saw.
Thanks Mine work for awhile then stop and my lights on the front weren't working correctly. So I changed the capacitor on the control board and it's good as new. Thanks again
My friend gave me his Jet filtration just like yours. Had it in the garage for couple years and finally took it for a run.... Mine does nothing no lights or anything. The capacitor is bulging slightly like you showed yours. I had just shown my son that same bulging just priort to finding your gem of a video. Thanks for posting! If I am not getting any lights whatsoever but do have 120 power past the fuse then I have another issue than just the capacitor right? Power supply too maybe? Well I ordered the parts and will see.. thanks so much for posting... amazing how i watched this after doing the exact same disassembly of mine! Internet is amazing. Will let you know the outcome! Thanks again!
Thanks for the comments. Let me know how it turns out. If that cap is totally gone, perhaps you will get no lights, but it could be a bad power supply as well. Will be interesting to find out what you find.
@@DansWay- well Dan kinda like I expected replacing the one barrel capacitor didn’t do anything. The old one was definitely bad. Now I’m trying to source the more rectangular orange capacitor that’s next to the barrel capacitor. I think that’s another thing that can go bad. I hope the motor up directly and it runs fine, so it’s definitely the circuit board. Any ideas? I feel like since there’s no lights whatsoever on the LEDs. There’s some issue with the power supply. Validated power is past the in-line fuse so the board is getting power. Other than the capacitors, I’m not really sure what else could’ve failed on the board. The motor capacitor is good as well any ideas would be appreciated
Next up would be the controller IC would be my next guess...
@@DansWay - not sure what that is. Is that a replaceable item but much more difficult than a capacitor?
@@DansWay- well bought a standard 3 position rotary switch for 10 bucks. Wired directly and mount just to the left of the control board. Works great! Did your unit have 4 styrofoam squares in the interior? Mine did. Inside of sealed plastic covers. Guess it’s trying to reduce the volume inside the box?? Thought it was a little strange
Would this be the same for a Delta unit? And I agree with others, you da man!
It would likely be true for these types of units. What happens when you turn it on? Does the like flicker, or does the motor just hum / barely move?
I have to hold the start button down for it to start up. Otherwise it won’t start.
@@dickiebrewer1232 Does the user-interface flash? or does it just take a moment to get the motor going?
It doesn’t flash. I hold the button down and the motor starts turning and will increase speed if I keep holding the button down. It used to stay running. Now when I do that, it just dies.
@@dickiebrewer1232 Ok, so that is definitely the large square motor 'run' capacitor mounted to the motor. Pull it out and buy one with the same specs (xxMFD or xxUFD, xxVAC). You can start here as an example: geni.us/20uF_Motor_Cap
Your video helped me bring back my Jet air filtration. Thanks! I had the same problem with the controller board capacitor with the classic sign of a bulged end. Used your amazon links to purchased products and help you out a little. This seems to be a common problem for the Jet as there were other videos on the same subject...a sign for the manufacture to look at their component choice.
Thanks for letting me know how it went for you, and thanks for using the links! Any steps I missed or other suggestions on this repair?
@@DansWay I think you covered it well and explained how to trouble shoot either the control board or motor capacitors. In another UA-cam video about the Jet dust collector I watched the person replaced the "other" capacitor on the board, the orange rectangle component to the left of the cylinder shaped capacitor. Had similar symptoms. I did not know how to test if this one was bad...I don't have much experience with electronic control boards.
The capacitor on the control board was bulged. Changed out and all works perfectly. Thanks so much.
Glad this video helped you out!
Great video! My problem is weird. If I repeated press the on/off switch the fan starts moving and each click speeds it up, but when I stop pressing it the fan slows to a stop. Which capacitor would cause that? I am assuming it is the run capacitor on the fan, but I thought I would ask before taking it apart. Thank from a new subscriber!
Hey Thomas, that is a strange one! My best guess is the run cap. Definitely not the power supply cap...
Thanks for the reply! I will take it apart and replace the run cap. I ordered one using your link.
Dan, thx for posting this! I repaired my jet filtration system this weekend using your video and links to parts. it's back up and running. Thx again.
Awesome Erik! Thanks for letting me know this was helpful, and for likely being the 1000th viewer 😉
Perfect clip Dan!!!
Thanks David!
Looks very similar control board to my JDS 750, I have it apart now and components are ordered.
Hey Dan, did you get your JDS-750 fixed? How did it turn out?