I’m Not Using Melamine Again
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- Опубліковано 20 чер 2024
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My Laundry plans were made by Mark at MW Joinery design based out of Australia. He did it a great job and I highly recommend getting in touch if you want some cabinets designed (he did our kitchen as well)
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Think of all the money you’ve saved by drilling a hole handle! That’s a hole lot of savings!
Hi Scott, when you're cutting out for a sink, or hob, in laminate tops, pre-drill the corners with a 15-20mm bit, then cut to leave a radius. A square cut corner can sometimes cause stress fractures in the laminate. Also, seal the exposed chipboard edges with silicone before installing the sink, it can save the top if the sink's own seal fails over time. When cutting melamine/laminate, try using a triple-chip blade. It gives a much better cut, especially on a track saw.
See how you’re steadily falling into the art of making cabinets Scott, thinking on the job to make alterations. Just knew with all the video’s in Auckland you were a very precise woodworker. Thanks for the latest exciting episode.👍👍
Hey Scott. Every time you bend down there to get the washing out or put it in, you're going to remember this. "I should have put that cupboard under the washer". As my wife would say. Designed by a Man.
Maybe you should ask your wife for her input during the design phase lol
Wouldn't that make the dryer (which is being stacked in the plan) too high to load/unload?
No. Not at all. All things can be massaged to your own requirements. I have an off the shelf all metal powder coated sliding drawer under my washer dryer in a unit laundry. Its 400mm odd high and leaves the dryer opening at the right height for accessing the clothes. I'm 5 foot 7 or I think 164cm so if your taller you can go higher.
Hey Scott, could make the doors 10mm or more over hang below the cabinets, use a handle, instead of drilling those holes lol, also you can get self restrictor fittings on the hinges so, the doors doesn’t hit the side panels.
Well he is building a shelf underneath the cabinets. You can see it in the drawings. Still possible of course but probably why he didn't
I would have sealed all cut edges of particle board counter, including sink cutout.
Wouldn't worry about it at all. Have had a laminate counter in the kitchen for 20 years and the sink cutout is holding up fine.
In most of Europe, cabinets of that sort are just made of melamine laminated chipboard or mdf. A lot cheaper, not as strong, but does the job. You can even get edge banding that looks like plywood. As far as buying the materials. You create a cut list, give it to the supplier, and you get all your pieces accurately cut. You just need to drill some holes and join it all together. Simple as.
We get that stuff to. The laminated ply is a bit nicer/heavy duty (doesn't puff up like wheat bix when it gets a drip of water on it) but the chip out problem is really bad.
Is that because of the whole you must bring your own kitchen thing?
@@mtnbikeman85high moisture resistant particleboard properly edged is going to be way better than that plywood with raw edge. Is it even moisture resistant? And using a veneered chipboard product for the benchtop with a big sink cut out in it…OMG 😮
@@AndrewFrink That's mostly only Germany
Hi Scott , my only criticism is the sink should be next to the washing machine cabinet and the laundry basket on the opposite side to avoid running water and waste pipes from the washing machine behind the laundry basket. Great vid👍
Greetings from East Texas!! I used a cut out of the same material as your cabinets for a desk top in my travel trailer. Put some 2" holes along the wall for cable and wire ports. The material look just right for a desk top and for the travel tailer. Easy to clean with a damp rag. I used a glue edge banding on the exposed faces. It is applied with a hot iron which heats the glue back of the banding and when cooled it just sticks. Your cabinets are going to look great and practicable for a laundry area. Enjoy all your videos and thanks for sharing.
Haha, when Jess asked about the Häfele Tool I really has to laugh at the 80$ answer. Because that is the same strategy I use, all of the tools my wife asked me cost about 100€, always 😂😊
Same here, but then I have stopped asking the price for her handbags, shoes, clothes etc. 😂😂
Aye, and when the pot of Osmo at the start was $136 :D
I too shop at that place that does Festool for 100, whatever your currency is 😂
Scott, I saw an old guy score down both sides of the cut he was going to make. He did the cleanest cut I have ever seen. Cleaner than using tape. Problem is to measure those two lines each time is a mission!
Score
Solution for your over cupboard handle problem use Blum Tip-on for doors (push to open catches) instead. I typically drill a 10mm hole in the edge of the cabinet instead of using the mounts.
Keeps the whole thing clean and simple and solves the issue.
It nice, to see Scott videos, is relaxing, entertaining and y can learn something new ☺️💯💪.
Hey Scott, flip the benchtop over and cut it with the track saw face down on bench. It won't chip because the teeth are cutting into the laminate.
Came here to say this 👍
And have good support from sacrificial wood below. Bottom will chip a bit but that is at the bottom :)
Done so many cuts, thought to myself "this is crap", turned it over and said "at least it ain't scrap"
There's a logic to your flipside cutting
Loving the table saw push stick!!!!!
10:41 for the Partical-Board, the cutting for the Sink, it is good practice to seal the hole cut with Silicone, otherwise moisture make a sponch out of it, also a potential source of mold .. those things are used here in germany all over the place, from cheap till expansiv, and such things make the difference between 1 year shelf life or 10 years
Melamine edge is also very sharp. I cut my finger just brushing off debris from drilling in it.
Even better would have been to put a push to open catch ,now if you are putting those handles everywhere else then the hole now looks out of place.
So good to see the new laundry come together .. we have holes for opening our cabinet doors !!
I like the look.. a clean & modern look.🎉😎🎉you have great 🐦 bird 🦅 life .. they seem to chitter/ chatter when you’re filming .
Awesome Job Scott great video
Hi Scott, you are very important to to our trade because of the way you stay true to value. Not cost for the show. As usual well done you twice Blessed you are!
What the software you used to draw the laundry? Thanks for the videos.
I like the cupboard handles that are an (aluminium?) extrusion that goes all the way along the edge of the door or drawer.
Hi Scott, we use Egger laminate MFC boards most of the time and if you edgeband them yourself, you can get good results. For the initial cut in the board though, definitely a triple-chip blade and then before adding edgeband, it improves the edge dramatically if you can linish the board edge to remove the smallest chips and get a super-clean edge before banding. Blow away any linished dust with air before edging. We use triple-chip blade, Festool Conturo, Festool MFK 700EQ, glue cleaning fluid (to remove any fine glue lines left after trimming) and Festool also do a polish and pad to shine up the edges when finished.
The cabinets look great Scott 👏
Looks fantastic.
I love how wholesome the content is when Jess is on screen, such a great couple.
Hey, just found you guys on the Tube. I went back to the beginning, wow ! Great life story in NZ. Definitely sharing this with everyone who loves building stuff. Lloyd & Gayle, Tea Tree Gully Sth. Aust.
Scott! That (pneumatic?) thing you use at 11:30min to hold up the cabinet. What in the name of all gods is this marvellous invention I NEED IT NOW !!!
Search for cabinet jack or cabinet installation jack in the ol' Google and you should find a number of choices. I remember the first time I saw one of those. I had a similar reaction as you.
Yeah that's pretty cool. I need one too
Hi, I would guess - Bessey STE90 - telescopic drywall support. I'm also interested :)
@@davidmensik thanks. That looks like it
I've seen people adding the slide rails on the bottom and on the top instead of the sides. Would've that worked for your use case?
I used that exact same product from Plytech to build some cabinetry. I came to the conclusion that one of the reasons it's priced so well is that the melamine laminate is extremely thin. From what I have seen, the high end melamine panels have a significantly thicker face laminates.
Scott great cabinet build. On the doors over the sink instead of drilling a hole in the door maybe you could route a cove on the bottom of the door to act as pull for the door. I believe the screws on the hinge and slide are POZI drive screws that's why the Phillips bit keep slipping out. Keep up the great work.
Hi Scott you should try blum. Tip on push to open no need for handles
Hey Scott, you should have smeared silicone on all the cut edges before putting down the sink, it's best practice. Cabinets look great!
More like seal it with epoxy resin. We do that when using solid wood. Water will eventually find it's way between the silicone and wood-like material.
Hi there.
Great thing you get hafele leg adjuster, its just allows to level yout cabinets alone much faster and simpler without getting up and down to check level.
Few tips from kitchen fitter, when cutting out for sink drill 10 mil holes in each of the corners such they just touch your cut lines.
Its preventing some stress issues with laminate, egger intruction even says that.
Use thin layer of silicon to seal exposed edges in that cut.
U could use those thin strip of laminate to cover sides of counter top, im doing that even when something will cover it.
That is extra layer of protection agaist moisture.
You made great decission to build sink cabinet as you done, those vertical stripes of ply will greatly improve stabilty of countertop and hopefully lower laminate stress in the corners of your cutout.
As for handles.
There are few option to avoid hitting cabinet that is next to it.
Use blum tip-on or any push to open system (you must change hinges for "loose" ones)
Cut your doors longer so you can open them via lip under cupboard.
Use angle restrictor for hinges so they open about 85 degrees instead of 100/110.
For the drawer:
Check if they are meant to be used for just one side of it ( drawer may lean in future) If not just add one to top and bottom for extra stability and you still have an acces as you do now.
For the holes for shelves
Greetings from Germany, we work a lot with Melamin. For the right job nice, cheap and durable enough. When you need a stronger surface, just combine it with HPL. A lot of "mistakes" you make are the normal learning process with these sort of materials :)
I honestly dislike hardware on cabintery, i really like using just a hole a well. Its very honest ! Great job here scott.
A tip for veneered worktops is cutting them oversize and then Trimingham down using a straight edge and a router bit with a follower on it, you need a pretty meaty router but it leaves a beautiful edge
I cut oversize and plane it down that gives a better edge too
I used Rhinoply for my cabinets in my laundry rather than Melteca/Melamine. Great stuff, much stronger and much more resistant to blowing from water damage etc. Good video.
Ideally id recommend some sort of slide out drawer underneath your dryer somewhere, so you can rest the washing basket on it when pulling clothes out of dryer
Awesome, u should add plastic sleeves in and around the finger pulls, they can be easily 3d printed and it will class it up a bit
What is that prop you used to fit the over cupboards? That looked awesome!!
First time I’ve ever did a 10 second rewind to rewatch the intro to an ad space before
Looks great. Just wish there was more thought about how we are going to repair the appliances later.
When i do one sided pull outs i put a drawer guide on the bottom to keep it straight. On a tall pullout like yours use a guide on the top and bottom panel would be called for, and two side guides. The more guides you use the more critical they are all installed accurately or it doesn’t operate smoothly. 1/2” pullout spacing all around makes the math easy when designing.
Looking good.
Hey Scott, loving the videos mate. What's the name of the shelving install props you used for the laundry? They looks much better than fastcap 3rd hand ones I use at the moment.
Nice, very nice intro music!
Amazing work as always 1 question Scott what are those supports you used to hold up wall cabinets while you mounted them
I like that push stick design! Can you share who sent it to you so I can ask for the plans?
Hey Scott. Not sure if applicable in NZ but in England we have Blum hinges that take a restrictor that stops the door from colliding with other units or a wall for instance
You can get Round Recessed Cabinet Drawer Pulls, Stainless and sometimes other colors, just search the internet and you will end up on those big Chinese online stores. I reckon they’d look good rather than plain holes that would get dirty easily.
I need some new kitchen units and can’t decide whether to make them myself or not but you inspire me. I’ve made a few shelf units in the past and I know my finishing skills aren’t up to Melamine. I prefer ply over mdf for the same reason as you. I’ve used a few good coats of gloss paint, admittedly I’m old enough to use oil based. A mini roller gives a good finish and it hides my poor finishing skills and you are not stuck with plain white and it lasts well enough.
Cabines look Great Scott! Where did you get the drawings/plans for those cabinets?
Looking at the small.sliding cabinet with the draw slides on the right .I would have fitted a slide to the top and bottom on the left to stop the rocking.
Using your dads old jigsaw to make your cabinets in your new home is lovely ❤
come on my man you should use push to open pistons instead drilling through the face of the door ,as well you forgot to score(2-3mm) the cuts first i can see chips all over :) and the fact that you didn't put a radius in the cut out sink in my opinion it is ok as the chipboard doesn't act like real wood that has long grain that could carry the split in corner so you did it right i get that in my videos a lot! anyway you are cool carpenter Scott!
For drilling hinges I have a blum ecodrill. It's a fantastic little accessory for kitchen doors. Definitely worth a look if you're doing lots of them. Not so much for a one off as it's around £160. Paid for itself on its first job for me though.
Urethane, epoxy, oil, wax, or paint the inside of the finger pull holes or the raw wood will end up gross from skin oil and grime accumulation.
A couple of things with laundries - doors for quiet and also hiding washing machine and driers/ ugly things - lighting for seeing what you. are doing - Otherwise it looks pretty functional. The long drawer - I 'm still trying figure what that will be used for - maybe shelves in it and some washing powders ?
Hey Scott. I know your videos are more vlog like now. But if you could make an updated video on tool/workwear essentials for apprentices (particularly first year) that would be really helpful.
4:20 I do believe that's our work truck up that hill.
The overhead hanging cabinet doors could be a finger width longer and you wouldn’t need handles or holes!
Undermount rails for the win.
Finger hole door pulls look good, but the area around the hole will always be dirty without a stand away pull.
I'm curious where you get things like that plastic strip you used as a catch for that sliding door? I'm down in Dunedin, having moved from the US, and am finding little things like that more difficult to find than in the states.
That push stick is hella dangerous, it needs a flat (sacrificial) bottom to be anywhere near safe or it needs to be significantly longer. The safe distance of a push stick is how far the tip of your hand is behind where the stick pushes the wood, and with that one that distance is practically zero as your hand floats right above the hook. If that push stick twists your hand is right in the blade.
If they'd made the cutout right at the front it would've been short but acceptable, right now it's not much more than a neat ornament you can hang on the wall
Scott, try the Blum friction-fit soft close hinges next time - no screw holes needed. My cabinet guy swears by them. They pop out with a flathead screwdriver if you need to remove them. No faffing about.
Hey Scott what was the hand held device you used to help lift the cabinet
New Zealand looks like a wonderful place to live.
G,day Scott Brown from Sydney Australia. Are you using the correct fitting cordless screw bit? You seem to be "machine gunning" just a little.
🙃🇦🇺
The irony of the view at 4:20 wasn't lost on me. I thought, "that's a lot of dead wood". And then I thought, "oh yeah - days what carpenters and builders use every day!"
Always cut laminate upside down for a cleaner cut.
This is New Zealand.. everything is upside down, and down under.
Haha when did you cut the hole for the tap? Magically appeared after the sink was installed ;)
Probably overkill, but might have been worth doing a little waterproofing behind the washer and laundry cabinets in case you have a leak or busted braided line. At leas then the water will push out onto the sealed timber floor rather than go into the wall?
blum hinges (can get a bunnings) you can get hinge restrictors for it that limits the swing to 90 degrees, most standard hinges have a range of 110-120 degrees. Or if you happy with no handles they a push to open option.
Great episode per usual! I'm inspired to fit-out our laundry. Question - Does Jess do voice overs for Spark? there's a Spark ad that rolls straight after your videos, the likeness is astounding, maybe its AI.
I did exactly the same thing with handles on my work bench. even though the kitchen cabinets, i re-used for the base, had tiny knob type handles i kept getting caught on then with my pants and belt pouches. cut a hole for a finger and problem solved.
Always wondered why that aqua strip on the van was all about.
Love your videos. Do me a favor. Get some pozi bits before you do any more cabinet work. The sound of the bit camming out on those screws is like nails on a chalkboard.
One of my pet hates on tv and UA-cam is people using either the incorrect bit or a rounded over bit when putting screws in then having that rattle of the bit camming out
Oh Osmo. I love that product
You can get himg restricts depending on the brand of hinge, I know Blum sell them
Hi Scott, can you provide info as to the melamine coated ply you are using? I assume it's an LPL product and not an HPL? I'm wanting to build some cabinets for my bathroom and ideally I'd like to minimise the chipping so if there's an alternative you'd recommend that would be useful. Thanks!
Hi Scott, it was just necessary to make the doors on the locker 1 cm longer down, and there was no need to drill these creepy holes-handles.
Drawer runners horizontal, top or bottom would work better supporting the vertical runners.
For the tall sliding cabinet, couldn't you use a drawer slider rail on either the top or the bottom to constrain the movement? Or does the way they attach and how you remove the "drawer" conflict with mixing axes like that?
Do you need to seal the cut where the sink goes?
Scott, are you using a Phillips to drive those hinge screws?
we have laminated chipboard and I have no clue how to fix the bits where it has torn off in chunks at the top of the drawers
When I remodeled my we tested iut a few handles. Both of us like one that was similar to what uou picked out but we found ourselves catching the edges on our clothes.
For your application the simple hole looks good.
As for melamine there are different types and grades. A cheap melamine isn't good to work with but a high end version isn't bad and its ability to withstand moisture is unmatched.
How does the cost compare with making these to buying kit set ones?
I mean, to be fair, your grr-ripper is probably safer than that push stick, but it's still cool.
Scott, why did you go a vaneer benchtop over a solid wood one? We recently did our laundry and the most cost effective for us was a 2400x600x22 'project panel' from bunnings, it was like $100. Even with the clear coat it was much cheaper than any laminate option.
Kitchen guy here…. Those project panels from Bunnings are ok, but unfortunately they are not made for high use Benchtops, I recommend applying multiple clear coats and regularly reapplying. The Benchtop Scott used was a high pressure laminate which is specifically made for Benchtops. Sometimes cheapest is not best
@@codygifford1864 its not really a high use area though, sure you use it every day but it usually does not get the same abuse as a kitchen benchtop.
The best way to prevent table saw accidents is to just keep the blade guard on. 👍
the "best" way to prevent table saw accidents is to not use one at all.
In fact, just stay in bed. It's much safer.
👍.
Hi Scott, is there a similar prefinished product available in NZ that you would recommend over the Melamine ply?
Hi there Scott, I am about to start building my kitchen cabinets out of the same HPL ply and noticed you were using OSMO hard wax/oil on your edges..? Can you confirm the product and where you got it from please..? I am in Nelson often but based on the West Coast 👍🏼 cheers mate, love the channel! Si.
Scoring cut scoring cut scoring cut. Always with laminated chipboard, unless you have a brand new blade for the purpose.
Hey Scott, Just wondering why you made the decision to have the vertical draw open with the 'shelving' facing away from the 'work area' of the sink and bench top. If you want something you have to open it and then access from the other side. Perhaps you could change the access by turning the unit upside down?
I think the vertical drawer is for brooms and mops so I think he deliberately wanted it opened that side
Thought I'd add my piece on melamine, the stuff is great for carcassing as it's relatively hard wearing and easy to clean but a real bugger for doors. Also putting edge banding makes it sooo much less likely to chip
Tried laminex? How do you treat the plywood edge?
Hi Scott. Is there a reason you have the opening to the vertical drawer facing way from the areas (sink, washer, dryer) that might need its contents? Someone will have to walk around the open drawer to get to its contents. My wife and I agree that the opening should be reversed. What does Jess think?
Jess agrees 😆
Have your door overhang at the bottom by about 15mm as then you don't need a handle