So very true. I'm still on a 2012 fsp and have been looking at getting a custom built titanium hardtail. This will be my first hardtail and 29er bike in well over 10 years.
@@RajaShetty I was eyeing their bikes for awhile but they seem like they might be hard to get in the states. Also I really only ride single track and it's often pretty rocky out here. I do plan on going with a Rolhoff gearhub and gates carbon belt drive.
As a former engineer, I appreciate your real world technical analysis of bicycle geometry. So much enduro buzz and nobody else talks about the floppy steering due to slack geometry. Great solution for no lock out rear suspension too!
The floppy steering is such an unfortunate tradeoff, because switching to a 64deg HTA made me a more confident rider. I've found that it's worst when sitting stationary with my hands off the bars. The front wheel can easily flop to the side and then wants to roll away and tip the bike over. Embarrassingly that once caused me to fall flat on my face when I was sitting stopped with one foot still clipped in while checking my phone!
Since I've rediscovered my passion for cycling I haven't seen or heard a more detailed and well planned guide/video series/UA-cam channel as your/your's. You on your own ar a gift to cycling and cyclist alike.
Before you upgrade the brakes consider upgrading pads and rotors. You can run 220 for the front and 203 on the back. Enduro Mag wrote a piece about why we all should run bigger back rotors. Just because when we do big descends we constantly reduce our speed with back most of the time and brake with both. So the back brake actually gets more beating. Different pads are also really can make a difference. If you want the ultimate brake for a small budged you need to buy Magura mt5 calipers and pair them with your Shimano levers. Bleed them with Shimano or Magura mineral oil and be amazed how crazy good those work. I have owned several pairs of them and I also have the Dirittissima from Trickstuff. This brake is a the ultimate brake to day and the Shimano/Magura(Shigura) franken brake is almost good as the Dirittissima. OFC the Direttissima will have other benefits like never get destroyed and unreal build quality
@@Cyclingabout only 50 were ever sold !! No one knows about them, and so many riders stop to talk about the bike, It’s like I’m going past on a Sea Horse !!
hey amazing! thanks for sharing! where do you camp in Oaxaca on your trips, not afraid of criminals or people with machetes wondering the mountains? hehe thanks !
It's been available for about six years now but has never received widespread adoption in a market flooded with comparatively simple closed cell foam inserts. I think it's a great system!
It's a 45mm. Be careful with short stems on Loop bars though. As the bars sweep backwards, you end up steering in the lower half of the steering arc - they can get a bit funky to steer. I talk about steering in lots of detail in this video: ua-cam.com/video/R37R0gUFr7I/v-deo.html
Alee the bike and setup is super nice, the Procore looks amazing....what's the max pressure in the outer chamber? It says 0.8 - 1.5 bar, but I wonder if I could pump it to my Tyre max for use on tarmac and in the street for better rolling resistance, I have an Surly Ogre so I would like the procore for off road but still be able to pump the outer Tyre to max for commuting etc. Thanks keep up the great content
You'll want to reach out to Schwalbe for that info. I suspect the limitation is more the tyre or the rim specification, rather than Procore. 1.5 bar definitely sounds too low, as many people use this system with much narrower/lighter tyres than me. I think the 0.8-1.5 diagram you're likely looking at is a pressure recommendation rather than a pressure maximum.
Would aero bars be a good idea for bikepacking in a bike like this? I think it might allow to change position in long roads and would help on long trips, but I have never seen an enduro bike with aero bars...obviously
@@Cyclingabout My only bike is one very similar to this one, and I would like to start bikepacking, is it such a terrible idea to use it for long distances in gravel roads?
@@paulwilberforce9115 It's definitely one of the biggest enduro bikes out there. The Santa Cruz Megatower is a touch taller. The Transition Spire is a touch longer. Then there's Pole, Geometron & Nicolai who are 3-4cm longer again but quite expensive.
I appreciate that! Hopefully, my content inspires people to tinker with their bike setups a bit more, so they too can enjoy some next-level bike riding. 🎉
You do a wonderful job of explaining the features and benefits of the equipment. Your videos are very clear to me despite my ignorance of many common terms thrown about. Your diagrams help a lot too. Thank you.
Hi Alee, another great video... Thank you. I came to a similar conclusion on what bike I wanted - a full suspension Enduro/Trail bike with similar travel (except it cost more than yours!) but has a Rohloff/Gates drivetrain. I also found the same issue with the tires, so I run 2.35 width tires on 25mm rims. I have been debating inserts but run higher pressures so no problems so far... My brakes are Hope... just seems like such an appropriate name for brakes when I am on those very steep and technical downhills!
I may have missed it here or missed or forgotten it elsewhere, and please excuse my not knowing this - What is the brand and model of the saddle you prefer?
Might be worth upgrading the rotor and pads to some of Shimano's freeza stuff to decrease brake fade. Are you on metallic pads as well? Anyway, enjoying living vicariously through your videos!
I got an ice tech in 180mm on one of my bikes. But a 200mm rotor upgrade really was what stopped the fade. Cannot beat good old displacement as they say. Supposed to be a small loss of modulation but I did not notice much, can still modulate it down steep muddy shoots in the local forest!
I'll be interested in your future review of that IGH, particularly in how well it engages, which is imo the biggest obstacle to these types of tech on mountain bikes
Add another token in the rear shock same with your front fork the right side holds the tokens add another you might have 2 in there and adding more air ad a 3rd it'll reduce the air psi make things bit firmer change to Big Betty on the rear from magic Mary's for what your doing
I thank you for the bike information...but I am more interested in the gear you are carrying on this bike...you talk very little about your gear ...please I beg you to do more gear videos...
Loving this Alee; massive kudos to you for being able to make such great content in such challenging circumstances! If you get the chance, can you please answer one question? Are you able to explain how your current derailleur clutch dampens your rear suspension?
Cheers! The chain length "grows" on almost all full-suspension bikes due to the way the linkages work. And a derailleur clutch puts tension on the chain so that it cannot jump off the sprockets. In theory, taking away this additional chain tension should allow the suspension to perform better (the Kindernay doesn't require a clutch mechanism). But it'll be interesting to see if I notice any difference.
I remember you saying in your video about bicycle gearboxes that a Pinion has the advantage when it comes to mountainbikes. So: why no Pinion? Keep up the great work, really enjoying the quality content.
It's weird seeing you on a bike 🚴 other than the Tout Terrain. I don't plan to ever go bike packing unless it's absolutely necessary when I go on the GDMBT. I have a new Kona Sutra for a US coast to coast trip on pavement. I'm saving 💰money for a Tout Terrain like yours. I would have gotten one instead of the Kona but I didn't know about them. Ride safely. 👍☮️🌞🌟🚲🏔🏕
There is only one thing that bothers me - How often do You change your chain Alee? I'm using xc bike for my daily commute, with an SLX chain and Deore 10-51 cassette, and after 1000 kilometers it's on the limit (with Rohloff dry lube) - a little more than 0,5% stretch. How do you maintain that? Great video BTW! :)
I have a question regarding the suspension fork setup: You mentioned that since you're on 0 clicks of compression the fork sits too low in its travel. I was asking myself if a few more psi in the air chamber reduce the sag and put you up higher? To get the same progression feel I would remove a token so the fork won't feel to hard.
Yep, more air reduces the sag and puts me higher in the travel - but then I lose out on the small bump compliance I'm trying to achieve at the beginning of the stroke. Tokens provide most of their progressivity deep in the fork's travel. Even if I added a token and removed some air pressure, the small bump sensitivity virtually doesn't change, and I end up with quite a lot of ramp-up at 80% travel. A product that really suits my use case is the Vorsprung Secus air spring upgrade. It's basically a huge negative air chamber that attaches to the bottom of the fork, reducing the spring force at the beginning of the travel while increasing the mid-stroke support. Pinkbike has a good review on it: www.pinkbike.com/news/review-vorsprung-secus-air-spring-upgrade.html I'd be keen to try one after upgrading my damper to the Charger 2.1.
@@Cyclingabout Wow, yep that makes sense. Would love to see the upgrades in-depth. I think you are enough mechanically inclined to fit the upgrades yourself. Great video btw. I learned a lot of new facts, even though I'd call myself a MTB nerd😅.
I agree with the fact that Oaxaca has the Best mountains the city Is surrounded by beautiful mountains, the bike scene Is getting better ando better every year. Greetings from Oaxaca.
My Giant Anthem Advanced 29ner 2019 has a carbon front triangle but has an aluminum rear triangle with bearing pivot points. When it's fully loaded with bikepacking gear--two Ortlieb Gravel Panniers on an Old Man Mountain Divide rear rack at the back and two Ortlieb Fork Packs and a Salsa EXP handlebar cradle and dry bag up front--I can feel both the rear triangle and even the headset bearings slightly flex and twist when I have to lay the bike against on a wall or at any angle that isn't perfectly perpendicular laterally to the ground. Is this normal or should I be concerned?
It sounds like you're a bit too loaded up with weight! Any chance you can get more weight onto the frame rather than the fork/bars or rack? This will reduce the torsional flex of the frame.
wow el primero de tus videos que encontré fue hace mas de un año y ahora que planeo salir a hacer bikepacking de nuevo encuentro que sigues en mi país, que bien, ya hablas español?
How high of a psi did you have the inner tube? Cause it sounds to me like that might be the cause of the problem for why your wider tire wasn't gripping well at low pressures, or at least maybe was a part of it?
@CYCLINGABOUT thanks! I'll have to look up more information about those secondary tubes, I guess. I don't know how such a low psi would keep it from pinching or bottoming out?
Another way to make your fork stiffer at the end of its travel, while keeping it sensitive on small bumps would simply be to put tokens in the air spring so the fork becomes stiffer as you get into the travel. It would make your air spring less linear and more progressive ;)
Tokens provide most of their progressivity deep in the fork's travel. Even if I added a token and removed some air pressure, the small bump sensitivity virtually doesn't change, and I end up with quite a lot of ramp-up at 80% travel. A product that really suits my use case is the Vorsprung Secus air spring upgrade. It's basically a huge negative air chamber that attaches to the bottom of the fork, reducing the spring force at the beginning of the travel while increasing the mid-stroke support. Pinkbike has a good review on it: www.pinkbike.com/news/review-vorsprung-secus-air-spring-upgrade.html
I've just retired so have more time for recreational cycling. Was out on my Defy with its slick 25c tyres on a road that soon turned to gravel. Rather than turning back, I skated through it. This rekindled my interest in off-road. Instead of making room for a 3rd bike, I ordered some Hunt carbon gravel wheels for my Ridgeback hybrid with some XTR 160mm rotors & Schwalbe 35c knobblies (all my tyres run tubeless). I've been revisiting trails I haven't been down for 25yrs & having a real blast! The Ridgeback ain't no MTB but it does light off-road perhaps better than many drop-bar bikes do. This has had me really familiarising me with current MTB tech such as gearbox drives & dropper posts. Great video, if a little terrifying to watch at times!
Thanks! I'm glad to hear you're venturing off-road a bit more on the gravel bike. It's refreshing to discover new routes and spend a bit less time around cars.
A bigger rotor would stop the fade. I have a 200mm front on my XT brakes for my full suss bike. When bike packing I down the steepest trails and roads in Wales (often go up to a mountain range and camp) I tackle lots of blind switchbacks. Old system with 180mm used to fade. Can be dangerous! Had to stop halfway down. New system with just bigger rotor fixed that.
I might try 220/200mm rotors first. But for sure, the cheaper Shimano brakes are more prone to fading than other brakes... and I need an excuse to test different brake setups!
As someone who just sold their enduro bike (a 2018 Canyon Torque) for a gravel/classic bikepacking bike, there are 2 huge downsides to the enduro bikes in general: - due to the geometry and the position on the bike, long-distance rides on flat surfaces are killer on your stamina due to the awkward pedaling position and the wide tires. -maintenance. It's costly and time consuming because the suspension needs to be cleaned and oiled, along with the bearings in all of the pivot points. Don't get me wrong, they are very fun and immensely capable bikes otherwise, but for me at least those 2 above downsides were in the end, deal-breakers.
Rented a Nukeproof Mega 275 in the mountains a while back. Probably the most fun I ever had on a bike. Sadly not worth getting an Enduro or even XC where I live
Personally I have zero interest in ever riding a bike with a derailleur again. The bike industry desperately needs a huge shake-up. Looking forward to seeing it with a gearbox setup.
Hey Alee, long time listener first time caller here. Great video as always thanks heaps. I think you said you've got 2.6 rear and 2.4 front tyres. I would like to know if, in your experience, a rear tyre wider than the front tyre has a noticeable effect on the trails?
I cannot definitively say this width combination is best because it depends on so many factors including the tread pattern, tyre casing and terrain you're riding. I found the narrower front tyre to have more front grip in this instance, but it might not be the case for other brands or models. Usually, people describe front tyres as 'vague handling' when they get too wide, which is part of the reason why 3.0"+ tyres aren't more common on dedicated mountain bikes. 2.4-2.5" seems like the precipice in the enduro/dh scene, but it really depends on the tyre+terrain. The wider rear tyre allows me to use a lower tyre pressure to achieve more ground grip and a more stable bike on chunky terrain. It seems to be the best option for here!
It seems like the Zerode Katipo Trail would have been a good match for your needs as well, and it comes with a pinion gearbox and carbon drive belt. Although the price is high and the reach doesn't go quite as long as you need.
The problem with pinion gearbox's is that they have really bad engagement, inferior to even internally geared hubs. That doesn't really mean anything on a touring bike. And it might not to Alee if he's climbing fire roads. But you don't see them often on mountain bikes specifically for that reason. If you ride really chunky or rooted highly technical trails, that lack of engagement starts to be more and more a penalty. And that compounds with the higher weight because if you can't cheat pedal your way over the terrain due to poor engagement, you have to rely more on momentum, which is suffering more due to higher weight.
You should try adding bottomless tokens to both your fork and shock and tune progression. It will basically make suspension more supple at the start while letting it stay higher in travel in the middle and not bottom out at the end. It's really easy to install and the tokens themselves are cheap, but this really makes a lot of difference to how the suspension will feel.
Tokens provide most of their progressivity deep in the fork's travel. Even if I added a token and removed some air pressure, the small bump sensitivity virtually doesn't change, and I end up with quite a lot of ramp-up at 80% travel. A product that really suits my use case is the Vorsprung Secus air spring upgrade. It's basically a huge negative air chamber that attaches to the bottom of the fork, reducing the spring force at the beginning of the travel while increasing the mid-stroke support. Pinkbike has a good review on it: www.pinkbike.com/news/review-vorsprung-secus-air-spring-upgrade.html
The Zerode Katipo is a carbon fiber trail bike that uses a Pinion internal gear box and a Gates belt drive. The weight of the bicycle is 14 kilograms. I'm hoping you can review its potential for bikepacking.
The wider rear tyre allows me to use a lower tyre pressure to achieve more ground grip and a more stable/smooth bike on chunky terrain. It seems to be the best option for here based on my testing.
@@Cyclingabout thanks! I ride mine without luggage but seem to notice better agility with a 2.4 rear. I like how the bike turns. In a couple months want to experiment replacing the 29x2.4 on a 30mm inner width rim with a 27.5x3.0 on a 40 mm inner width. Ideally would make the bike more plush on a softer tyre and more load-capable. Would differ only 2-3mm in diameter with the 29 I think.
![[UA] Eternal Fire проти NAVI | EPL Season 20 Malta](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/chvlsDygrZM/mqdefault.jpg)
It's been so much fun riding mountain bikes again! Bikes have gotten a heck of a lot better in the last few years - what a time to be alive! 🎉
Amazing videos I bought your guide but I can't seem to download it it asks me to pay again
@@RajaShetty Send me a message on Facebook or Instagram (links in the description) and we'll solve this problem
So very true. I'm still on a 2012 fsp and have been looking at getting a custom built titanium hardtail. This will be my first hardtail and 29er bike in well over 10 years.
@@buckroger6456 so I have looked high and low finally opted for tout-terrain outback with pinion
@@RajaShetty I was eyeing their bikes for awhile but they seem like they might be hard to get in the states. Also I really only ride single track and it's often pretty rocky out here. I do plan on going with a Rolhoff gearhub and gates carbon belt drive.
As a former engineer, I appreciate your real world technical analysis of bicycle geometry. So much enduro buzz and nobody else talks about the floppy steering due to slack geometry. Great solution for no lock out rear suspension too!
The floppy steering is such an unfortunate tradeoff, because switching to a 64deg HTA made me a more confident rider. I've found that it's worst when sitting stationary with my hands off the bars. The front wheel can easily flop to the side and then wants to roll away and tip the bike over. Embarrassingly that once caused me to fall flat on my face when I was sitting stopped with one foot still clipped in while checking my phone!
Since I've rediscovered my passion for cycling I haven't seen or heard a more detailed and well planned guide/video series/UA-cam channel as your/your's. You on your own ar a gift to cycling and cyclist alike.
Before you upgrade the brakes consider upgrading pads and rotors. You can run 220 for the front and 203 on the back. Enduro Mag wrote a piece about why we all should run bigger back rotors. Just because when we do big descends we constantly reduce our speed with back most of the time and brake with both. So the back brake actually gets more beating. Different pads are also really can make a difference. If you want the ultimate brake for a small budged you need to buy Magura mt5 calipers and pair them with your Shimano levers. Bleed them with Shimano or Magura mineral oil and be amazed how crazy good those work. I have owned several pairs of them and I also have the Dirittissima from Trickstuff. This brake is a the ultimate brake to day and the Shimano/Magura(Shigura) franken brake is almost good as the Dirittissima. OFC the Direttissima will have other benefits like never get destroyed and unreal build quality
How will they never get destroyed?
I was surprised to see you riding sprockets and chain! But of course, you mentioned that, and your plan to try a gear hub. ❤️
So thorough, as usual. Nice work.
Much appreciated!
Absolutely epic information as always! I’d like to nominate my Deviate Guide Pinion as a strong contender for this purpose.
I hope Deviate bring the Guide back and make an XL or XXL size so I can buy one!
@@Cyclingabout only 50 were ever sold !! No one knows about them, and so many riders stop to talk about the bike, It’s like I’m going past on a Sea Horse !!
@@mitchwarren1600 Wow, that few!? I know two other guys with one, so I must just hang out in the cool circles.
Deviate is a Scottish design. BCpov as one and McTrail Rider have one.
@@andrewnorris5415 true they both ride the “Highlander” not the Guide, which is hopefully only temporarily extinct !
You may want to align the calipers first if we actually see them evaluated at the state @14:11
hey amazing! thanks for sharing! where do you camp in Oaxaca on your trips, not afraid of criminals or people with machetes wondering the mountains? hehe thanks !
This is a nice set up, I like it. Just wish we could have bags in the middle of the frame😓
I smash out 18 miles there and back to the bike park on my Mega , no problem!
Think you would benefit from the SQ11 sadles
There's a 9-52T cassette somewhere. In my head, it could be great for bikepacking. If it works.
Procore sounds crazy, first time I'm hearing about it. Might be time to go tubeless for me
It's been available for about six years now but has never received widespread adoption in a market flooded with comparatively simple closed cell foam inserts. I think it's a great system!
@@Cyclingabout I agree! Easy mounting with a hand pump is the seller for me
@@tobygreenwood5036 That was something that surprised me as I'd never heard it mentioned in another review. Perfect for backcountry riding.
Nice product. Pity about the price...
A lot of the MTB YTers have been using it for years, e.g. BKXC.
How long is your stem? I am planning on a 30mm stem with a Jones bar on my hardtail and am worried that feedbags won't dit after watching this video
It's a 45mm. Be careful with short stems on Loop bars though. As the bars sweep backwards, you end up steering in the lower half of the steering arc - they can get a bit funky to steer. I talk about steering in lots of detail in this video: ua-cam.com/video/R37R0gUFr7I/v-deo.html
Awesome!
I need this kinda bike..
Nice, I want it.
Hi Alee, have you considered moving the feedbags furthers towards the bar ends, maybe the squeeze wouldn‘t be so tight?
I haven't been able to get them to ride without rattling unless they're jammed right in that headtube-handlebar nook.
Hi! Great video, but I wander why didn't you buy a Zerode bike with Pinion gearbox and gates carbondrive belt, instead of chain?
Price, availability and sizing are three big reasons! Mostly the sizing though (I'm very tall).
Alee the bike and setup is super nice, the Procore looks amazing....what's the max pressure in the outer chamber? It says 0.8 - 1.5 bar, but I wonder if I could pump it to my Tyre max for use on tarmac and in the street for better rolling resistance, I have an Surly Ogre so I would like the procore for off road but still be able to pump the outer Tyre to max for commuting etc.
Thanks keep up the great content
You'll want to reach out to Schwalbe for that info. I suspect the limitation is more the tyre or the rim specification, rather than Procore.
1.5 bar definitely sounds too low, as many people use this system with much narrower/lighter tyres than me. I think the 0.8-1.5 diagram you're likely looking at is a pressure recommendation rather than a pressure maximum.
@@Cyclingabout yeah, thanks
Love 💕 from village Charwa se 💖💖
I wonder what is the brand and model of the downtube waterbottle cage holder.
I'm a little shocked you didn't choose a Rolhoff gearhub. What are the reasons? Just wondering since that's what I'm planning on going with.
most drop outs aren't compatible
@@cjohnson3836 thanks! I completely forgot about that. There is some adapters out there but yup it won't work for all bikes.
Would aero bars be a good idea for bikepacking in a bike like this? I think it might allow to change position in long roads and would help on long trips, but I have never seen an enduro bike with aero bars...obviously
Just say no to roadie aero bars on mountain-bikes; get some Surly Moloko or Jones Bars for max versatility.
It doesn't make sense to use this bike on a long trip with open roads. This bike is intended for steep and rough terrain only.
@@Cyclingabout My only bike is one very similar to this one, and I would like to start bikepacking, is it such a terrible idea to use it for long distances in gravel roads?
The best bike is the one you have! But I find riding this bike a bit tedious on flat gravel roads compared to my shorter travel bikes.
I plan to do so on my Canyon Neuron. But I'm also not the usual mountain biker. I ride fairly long distances and don't care what other think about it.
apidura+nuke=cool
The colour combo is perfect. 🔥
Baik
Why happens if one of you breaks an arm or leg? Are you too far out that you could get medical attention? That would be my biggest worry.
why dont u design a bike?
How tall are you good sir ??
198cm/6ft6
@@Cyclingabout ohh thanks ! Is this xl or xxl ??
@@paulwilberforce9115 XXL
@@Cyclingabout ok thanks heaps for the reply ! I'm 202cm .. tossing up if this will fit me or not
@@paulwilberforce9115 It's definitely one of the biggest enduro bikes out there. The Santa Cruz Megatower is a touch taller. The Transition Spire is a touch longer. Then there's Pole, Geometron & Nicolai who are 3-4cm longer again but quite expensive.
👍🚴🌎💥
⚓
Scientist cyclist 👨🎓🚵♂
Man! Your content is next level detailed. Thank you. I thought I was thorough but no. Learning so much from you.
I appreciate that! Hopefully, my content inspires people to tinker with their bike setups a bit more, so they too can enjoy some next-level bike riding. 🎉
Exactly!
Man, you are living bicycle Encyclopedia!
I was oogling that bike in the last vid. Love the bag set up, love the content. Great video as usual.
You do a wonderful job of explaining the features and benefits of the equipment. Your videos are very clear to me despite my ignorance of many common terms thrown about. Your diagrams help a lot too. Thank you.
Great to hear!
Hi Alee, another great video... Thank you. I came to a similar conclusion on what bike I wanted - a full suspension Enduro/Trail bike with similar travel (except it cost more than yours!) but has a Rohloff/Gates drivetrain. I also found the same issue with the tires, so I run 2.35 width tires on 25mm rims. I have been debating inserts but run higher pressures so no problems so far... My brakes are Hope... just seems like such an appropriate name for brakes when I am on those very steep and technical downhills!
I may have missed it here or missed or forgotten it elsewhere, and please excuse my not knowing this - What is the brand and model of the saddle you prefer?
It's a Velo Race 3D FC. It works for me, but that doesn't mean it'll work for you!
@@Cyclingabout Thank you.
Nice bike but the rear shock is eating prime frame bag realstate.
Might be worth upgrading the rotor and pads to some of Shimano's freeza stuff to decrease brake fade. Are you on metallic pads as well? Anyway, enjoying living vicariously through your videos!
I got an ice tech in 180mm on one of my bikes. But a 200mm rotor upgrade really was what stopped the fade. Cannot beat good old displacement as they say. Supposed to be a small loss of modulation but I did not notice much, can still modulate it down steep muddy shoots in the local forest!
I'll be interested in your future review of that IGH, particularly in how well it engages, which is imo the biggest obstacle to these types of tech on mountain bikes
Great video! Can you go through a bit of what you brought in your luggage for this journey?
Agree, I struggle with how to keep it so light.
what's your rim's inner width?
30mm
Add another token in the rear shock same with your front fork the right side holds the tokens add another you might have 2 in there and adding more air ad a 3rd it'll reduce the air psi make things bit firmer change to Big Betty on the rear from magic Mary's for what your doing
What is your armspan?
Mine is 201cm and I'm 189cm high. It is hard to find a bike.
Am I the only one who bikepacks with a rucksack? I like to throw my camo rucksack somewhere in a bush and hit trails without it. Much more fun!
I thank you for the bike information...but I am more interested in the gear you are carrying on this bike...you talk very little about your gear ...please I beg you to do more gear videos...
Loving this Alee; massive kudos to you for being able to make such great content in such challenging circumstances! If you get the chance, can you please answer one question? Are you able to explain how your current derailleur clutch dampens your rear suspension?
Cheers!
The chain length "grows" on almost all full-suspension bikes due to the way the linkages work. And a derailleur clutch puts tension on the chain so that it cannot jump off the sprockets.
In theory, taking away this additional chain tension should allow the suspension to perform better (the Kindernay doesn't require a clutch mechanism). But it'll be interesting to see if I notice any difference.
@@Cyclingabout Cheers Alee!
What happened to gearbox bikes?
Sounds like you are just making a commercial
I remember you saying in your video about bicycle gearboxes that a Pinion has the advantage when it comes to mountainbikes. So: why no Pinion?
Keep up the great work, really enjoying the quality content.
A Pinion gearbox only fits on a Pinion-ready frame.
What is the seat that you mentioned is your favorite for so long? You dont mention the brand...
sometimes you may said that beld are the best, and sometimes you say the best is a full suspension bike ...
Interesting to see no Rohloff , Would you have had one if possible ?
Love your channel so much great info and your really pushing your equipment thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoy it!
It's weird seeing you on a bike 🚴 other than the Tout Terrain. I don't plan to ever go bike packing unless it's absolutely necessary when I go on the GDMBT. I have a new Kona Sutra for a US coast to coast trip on pavement. I'm saving 💰money for a Tout Terrain like yours. I would have gotten one instead of the Kona but I didn't know about them. Ride safely. 👍☮️🌞🌟🚲🏔🏕
There is only one thing that bothers me - How often do You change your chain Alee? I'm using xc bike for my daily commute, with an SLX chain and Deore 10-51 cassette, and after 1000 kilometers it's on the limit (with Rohloff dry lube) - a little more than 0,5% stretch. How do you maintain that?
Great video BTW! :)
Excellent video bravo!
I have a question regarding the suspension fork setup:
You mentioned that since you're on 0 clicks of compression the fork sits too low in its travel.
I was asking myself if a few more psi in the air chamber reduce the sag and put you up higher?
To get the same progression feel I would remove a token so the fork won't feel to hard.
Yep, more air reduces the sag and puts me higher in the travel - but then I lose out on the small bump compliance I'm trying to achieve at the beginning of the stroke.
Tokens provide most of their progressivity deep in the fork's travel. Even if I added a token and removed some air pressure, the small bump sensitivity virtually doesn't change, and I end up with quite a lot of ramp-up at 80% travel.
A product that really suits my use case is the Vorsprung Secus air spring upgrade. It's basically a huge negative air chamber that attaches to the bottom of the fork, reducing the spring force at the beginning of the travel while increasing the mid-stroke support. Pinkbike has a good review on it: www.pinkbike.com/news/review-vorsprung-secus-air-spring-upgrade.html
I'd be keen to try one after upgrading my damper to the Charger 2.1.
@@Cyclingabout Wow, yep that makes sense.
Would love to see the upgrades in-depth. I think you are enough mechanically inclined to fit the upgrades yourself.
Great video btw. I learned a lot of new facts, even though I'd call myself a MTB nerd😅.
@@adapta Great to hear! I'll hopefully make a few videos about how I improve this bike - the next toy is the Kindernay hub. 👍🏻
Might need to try these pro core I use cush core just now
I agree with the fact that Oaxaca has the Best mountains the city Is surrounded by beautiful mountains, the bike scene Is getting better ando better every year. Greetings from Oaxaca.
Did I miss the saddle model that you returned to using? Super content! Thanks for your good work.
My Giant Anthem Advanced 29ner 2019 has a carbon front triangle but has an aluminum rear triangle with bearing pivot points. When it's fully loaded with bikepacking gear--two Ortlieb Gravel Panniers on an Old Man Mountain Divide rear rack at the back and two Ortlieb Fork Packs and a Salsa EXP handlebar cradle and dry bag up front--I can feel both the rear triangle and even the headset bearings slightly flex and twist when I have to lay the bike against on a wall or at any angle that isn't perfectly perpendicular laterally to the ground. Is this normal or should I be concerned?
It sounds like you're a bit too loaded up with weight! Any chance you can get more weight onto the frame rather than the fork/bars or rack? This will reduce the torsional flex of the frame.
@@Cyclingabout thanks for the advice. will do 🙂
Great video! Better value at $3000 - have a look at Sonder Evol and / or Cortex (obviously personal Geo dependant)
I’m your best fan but I did not need to see the part of the seat that was the most traveled by 🤠🙈🇨🇱thanks for the video 👍🏻👍🏻
wow el primero de tus videos que encontré fue hace mas de un año y ahora que planeo salir a hacer bikepacking de nuevo encuentro que sigues en mi país, que bien, ya hablas español?
Have you tried a token (or two) in your fork?
How high of a psi did you have the inner tube? Cause it sounds to me like that might be the cause of the problem for why your wider tire wasn't gripping well at low pressures, or at least maybe was a part of it?
12-14psi on the front. Super low.
@CYCLINGABOUT thanks! I'll have to look up more information about those secondary tubes, I guess. I don't know how such a low psi would keep it from pinching or bottoming out?
We are interested in the kit that is inside the bags
മലയാളി ഇല്ലയോടാ?🤔🙂
Upto 250Watts there is *NO* difference between open or closed suspension
Another way to make your fork stiffer at the end of its travel, while keeping it sensitive on small bumps would simply be to put tokens in the air spring so the fork becomes stiffer as you get into the travel. It would make your air spring less linear and more progressive ;)
Tokens provide most of their progressivity deep in the fork's travel. Even if I added a token and removed some air pressure, the small bump sensitivity virtually doesn't change, and I end up with quite a lot of ramp-up at 80% travel.
A product that really suits my use case is the Vorsprung Secus air spring upgrade. It's basically a huge negative air chamber that attaches to the bottom of the fork, reducing the spring force at the beginning of the travel while increasing the mid-stroke support. Pinkbike has a good review on it: www.pinkbike.com/news/review-vorsprung-secus-air-spring-upgrade.html
👍💓
love ur videos bro, really getting excited about bikes again
Similar with Polygon geometri
That saddle needs its own UA-cam channel!!!!
And so does the “D”.
I've just retired so have more time for recreational cycling. Was out on my Defy with its slick 25c tyres on a road that soon turned to gravel. Rather than turning back, I skated through it. This rekindled my interest in off-road. Instead of making room for a 3rd bike, I ordered some Hunt carbon gravel wheels for my Ridgeback hybrid with some XTR 160mm rotors & Schwalbe 35c knobblies (all my tyres run tubeless).
I've been revisiting trails I haven't been down for 25yrs & having a real blast! The Ridgeback ain't no MTB but it does light off-road perhaps better than many drop-bar bikes do.
This has had me really familiarising me with current MTB tech such as gearbox drives & dropper posts. Great video, if a little terrifying to watch at times!
Thanks! I'm glad to hear you're venturing off-road a bit more on the gravel bike. It's refreshing to discover new routes and spend a bit less time around cars.
What are those downtube bags ?
A bigger rotor would stop the fade. I have a 200mm front on my XT brakes for my full suss bike. When bike packing I down the steepest trails and roads in Wales (often go up to a mountain range and camp) I tackle lots of blind switchbacks. Old system with 180mm used to fade. Can be dangerous! Had to stop halfway down. New system with just bigger rotor fixed that.
I might try 220/200mm rotors first. But for sure, the cheaper Shimano brakes are more prone to fading than other brakes... and I need an excuse to test different brake setups!
As someone who just sold their enduro bike (a 2018 Canyon Torque) for a gravel/classic bikepacking bike, there are 2 huge downsides to the enduro bikes in general:
- due to the geometry and the position on the bike, long-distance rides on flat surfaces are killer on your stamina due to the awkward pedaling position and the wide tires.
-maintenance. It's costly and time consuming because the suspension needs to be cleaned and oiled, along with the bearings in all of the pivot points.
Don't get me wrong, they are very fun and immensely capable bikes otherwise, but for me at least those 2 above downsides were in the end, deal-breakers.
It'd be hilarious trying to ride these trails on a gravel bike!
An enduro bike is nothing that I ever expected to see on this channel.
How about adding wheel fenders ? is this a possibility?
Rented a Nukeproof Mega 275 in the mountains a while back. Probably the most fun I ever had on a bike. Sadly not worth getting an Enduro or even XC where I live
Time to move! 😅
Personally I have zero interest in ever riding a bike with a derailleur again. The bike industry desperately needs a huge shake-up. Looking forward to seeing it with a gearbox setup.
I cannot wait to get a gearbox on this bike!
@@Cyclingaboutwhat about belt drive compatibility?
It's not belt drive compatible.
Hey Alee, long time listener first time caller here. Great video as always thanks heaps. I think you said you've got 2.6 rear and 2.4 front tyres. I would like to know if, in your experience, a rear tyre wider than the front tyre has a noticeable effect on the trails?
I cannot definitively say this width combination is best because it depends on so many factors including the tread pattern, tyre casing and terrain you're riding.
I found the narrower front tyre to have more front grip in this instance, but it might not be the case for other brands or models. Usually, people describe front tyres as 'vague handling' when they get too wide, which is part of the reason why 3.0"+ tyres aren't more common on dedicated mountain bikes. 2.4-2.5" seems like the precipice in the enduro/dh scene, but it really depends on the tyre+terrain.
The wider rear tyre allows me to use a lower tyre pressure to achieve more ground grip and a more stable bike on chunky terrain. It seems to be the best option for here!
Have you tried the Shimano metallic pads?
It seems like the Zerode Katipo Trail would have been a good match for your needs as well, and it comes with a pinion gearbox and carbon drive belt. Although the price is high and the reach doesn't go quite as long as you need.
The problem with pinion gearbox's is that they have really bad engagement, inferior to even internally geared hubs. That doesn't really mean anything on a touring bike. And it might not to Alee if he's climbing fire roads. But you don't see them often on mountain bikes specifically for that reason. If you ride really chunky or rooted highly technical trails, that lack of engagement starts to be more and more a penalty. And that compounds with the higher weight because if you can't cheat pedal your way over the terrain due to poor engagement, you have to rely more on momentum, which is suffering more due to higher weight.
You should try adding bottomless tokens to both your fork and shock and tune progression. It will basically make suspension more supple at the start while letting it stay higher in travel in the middle and not bottom out at the end. It's really easy to install and the tokens themselves are cheap, but this really makes a lot of difference to how the suspension will feel.
Tokens provide most of their progressivity deep in the fork's travel. Even if I added a token and removed some air pressure, the small bump sensitivity virtually doesn't change, and I end up with quite a lot of ramp-up at 80% travel.
A product that really suits my use case is the Vorsprung Secus air spring upgrade. It's basically a huge negative air chamber that attaches to the bottom of the fork, reducing the spring force at the beginning of the travel while increasing the mid-stroke support. Pinkbike has a good review on it: www.pinkbike.com/news/review-vorsprung-secus-air-spring-upgrade.html
Nice wheeley at the end. I’d like to see a no hander too 😆
Always enjoy the depth and clarity of explainations
8 people go enduro with hardtails.
The Zerode Katipo is a carbon fiber trail bike that uses a Pinion internal gear box and a Gates belt drive.
The weight of the bicycle is 14 kilograms. I'm hoping you can review its potential for bikepacking.
It's unfortunately just not available in a big enough size. 😭
@@Cyclingabout 😞
Enjoyed the video. Thank you.
🌻
Awesome video!!!! you're doing great!!!keep it up!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thank you! Will do!
Thank you for the detailed story
How do you work out what psi to run in the suspension to compensate for luggage ?
I have small rubber bands that help to measure the sag. I add more air if my shock is dipping past the 30% indicator.
What is the weight of this bike?
I missed in the video why you chose the larger volume rear tire? Would a 2.4 not be sufficient?
The wider rear tyre allows me to use a lower tyre pressure to achieve more ground grip and a more stable/smooth bike on chunky terrain. It seems to be the best option for here based on my testing.
@@Cyclingabout thanks! I ride mine without luggage but seem to notice better agility with a 2.4 rear. I like how the bike turns. In a couple months want to experiment replacing the 29x2.4 on a 30mm inner width rim with a 27.5x3.0 on a 40 mm inner width. Ideally would make the bike more plush on a softer tyre and more load-capable. Would differ only 2-3mm in diameter with the 29 I think.
I like bottle bike stand 😄
Nice work. Subscribed
Have you looked at the Kindernay gear hub?
In person? Nope.