Your videos are the best. My co worker is gifting me a cb450 and I'm going to bring it back to life. Watching these videos makes me feel WAY more confident. Thank you!
I have a 1982 Honda cm450e im just past my first year riding and I love my bike. He needs fork seals soon and I am trying to decide if I can do it myself or not. But I don't have a manual for him. Any idea if the bolt size would be the same or how much oil to use? Any help would be hugely appreciated 🙏 and thank you for the great video it was very informative 👍
Hi, thanks for your clear explanation because according to the drawings in the maintenence manual it was not clear.I have a CB400F2 1977 and is almost rebuild.
I can't think why I never thought of this on the bike method, the times I've struggled with doing seals by myself. Usually that bottom bolt. I would think it cracked off and came out so much better than in the vice in part two was because there was enough upward pressure to stop the damper tube from turning. I'll be trying this myself next time I need to do this job.
The Tee Shaped Thing is called the Oil Lock Piece by Honda. Don't lose it..... it's not available from Honda. Back in the 70's I worked at a Honda dealership in San Diego..... The 'guaranteed forever' fork seals had just come on the market and a customer brought a set it. It's the latest, greatest thing he said so I had to install them. Got them into a CB750 and rolled the bike out of the shop over a 2" curb..... and BLUUUUU goes the seal. Blown out and fork oil was everywhere. So I called the company and explained what happened. He told me..... and I quote..... "Well.... that was the life of the seal" and he hung up! I have never used another one since..... some 40+ years.
Do you sell the springs for a 1975 Honda CB 200t? If not, what weight fork oil should I use on my rebuild? Also, do you sell the front brake pads (mechanical disc brake) for that bike? I can't find them anywhere. Is there anyway to convert them to hydraulics off of a 350 or 360 etc? Thanks.
Very useful video, after watching another video and doing the wrong way, this video has made a lot more sense and is very useful. I have come across an issue though, the lower bolt must either be stripped, or the internals are moving with it. I have cracked the bolt, but after a few turns, it now doesn't want to come out, any help you can give, or is it better to replace the whole fork? This is for a '73 CB100
Put the top bolt back on that holds the spring in, put pressure on the fork, and then try the bolt. You’re just spinning the internals with no pressure. The bolt won’t unscrew.
I'm going to do this soon on my 1975 CB750 which seems very similar. Why not wait and take the fork spring out after you've pulled the fork off the bike? That seems like an easier way to do it, no risk of getting oil on the motorcycle or scuffing the tachometer or speedo as you pull it out.
After studying the three parts of this series, I dug into the forks on my '71 SL350 K1. Radically different layout from the CB360. Circlips retain the springs (which are in two pieces with a nylon bushing between), a circlip and flat washer retains the seal, and the bothersome bolt at the bottom of the fork leg does not have to come out to remover the fork tube. Still, helpful videos in the details of fork rebuild.
Hey David, my manual also shows a circlip holding everything together, but looking down the tube I can only see the seal, not circlip, how do you get access to the circlip? My bike is a '73 CB100
Excellent instructional videos guys! quick question i own a 1970 CL450 K3 (I think) it has the auxiliary external springs on the front forks, shouldnt it also have springs on the inside of the fork tubes?
Hey Matt! Due to the high volume we are not able to offer technical support to customers through our social pages. Please contact us via our website www.common-motor.com for more information.
I had the same question as Ben Nielsen.. Do I need to remove the fork tubes from the bike if I'm just putting new seals and dust covers. Also, is this the same procedure for my 1977 CB750K4?
It could frank but we don't currently support and have the model in the shop to give you a for sure answer. With a bit of research you should be able to find out for sure.
Your videos are the best. My co worker is gifting me a cb450 and I'm going to bring it back to life. Watching these videos makes me feel WAY more confident. Thank you!
Thanks! Just about to do my first rebuild on a 1980 CB650 this weekend. Great video guys.
I have a 1982 Honda cm450e im just past my first year riding and I love my bike. He needs fork seals soon and I am trying to decide if I can do it myself or not. But I don't have a manual for him. Any idea if the bolt size would be the same or how much oil to use? Any help would be hugely appreciated 🙏 and thank you for the great video it was very informative 👍
Awesome video, it will guide me to rebuild shocks on my Honda h100a👍🏻
Hi, thanks for your clear explanation because according to the drawings in the maintenence manual it was not clear.I have a CB400F2 1977 and is almost rebuild.
I can't think why I never thought of this on the bike method, the times I've struggled with doing seals by myself. Usually that bottom bolt. I would think it cracked off and came out so much better than in the vice in part two was because there was enough upward pressure to stop the damper tube from turning. I'll be trying this myself next time I need to do this job.
The Tee Shaped Thing is called the Oil Lock Piece by Honda. Don't lose it..... it's not available from Honda. Back in the 70's I worked at a Honda dealership in San Diego.....
The 'guaranteed forever' fork seals had just come on the market and a customer brought a set it. It's the latest, greatest thing he said so I had to install them.
Got them into a CB750 and rolled the bike out of the shop over a 2" curb..... and BLUUUUU goes the seal. Blown out and fork oil was everywhere. So I called the company and
explained what happened. He told me..... and I quote.....
"Well.... that was the life of the seal" and he hung up! I have never used another one since..... some 40+ years.
ha ha ha ha, thats funny,what exactly are 'guaranteed forever seals?" is that whats originally on all of these Honda bikes?
Awesome video, I have a 500t that just started leaking, need to get this done!
Where was this vid a few months ago! :). Good job.
Do you sell the springs for a 1975 Honda CB 200t? If not, what weight fork oil should I use on my rebuild? Also, do you sell the front brake pads (mechanical disc brake) for that bike? I can't find them anywhere. Is there anyway to convert them to hydraulics off of a 350 or 360 etc? Thanks.
Very useful video, after watching another video and doing the wrong way, this video has made a lot more sense and is very useful.
I have come across an issue though, the lower bolt must either be stripped, or the internals are moving with it. I have cracked the bolt, but after a few turns, it now doesn't want to come out, any help you can give, or is it better to replace the whole fork? This is for a '73 CB100
Put the top bolt back on that holds the spring in, put pressure on the fork, and then try the bolt. You’re just spinning the internals with no pressure. The bolt won’t unscrew.
I'm going to do this soon on my 1975 CB750 which seems very similar. Why not wait and take the fork spring out after you've pulled the fork off the bike? That seems like an easier way to do it, no risk of getting oil on the motorcycle or scuffing the tachometer or speedo as you pull it out.
Just personal preference over here! Both ways do the job.
After studying the three parts of this series, I dug into the forks on my '71 SL350 K1. Radically different layout from the CB360. Circlips retain the springs (which are in two pieces with a nylon bushing between), a circlip and flat washer retains the seal, and the bothersome bolt at the bottom of the fork leg does not have to come out to remover the fork tube. Still, helpful videos in the details of fork rebuild.
Hey David, my manual also shows a circlip holding everything together, but looking down the tube I can only see the seal, not circlip, how do you get access to the circlip? My bike is a '73 CB100
Will this work on early 80s CB900C?
Excellent instructional videos guys! quick question i own a 1970 CL450 K3 (I think) it has the auxiliary external springs on the front forks, shouldnt it also have springs on the inside of the fork tubes?
Hey Matt! Due to the high volume we are not able to offer technical support to customers through our social pages. Please contact us via our website www.common-motor.com for more information.
Roger that, will do!@@Common-motor
Hey, nice Norton hat!
Wondering if all I need are new seals can I just remove the fork leg and leave the tubes on the bike?
shouldn't need new fork tubes unless they're warped or damaged. Most people are good with fresh seals and dust covers.
Thanks, nice job so far. Why not more likes?
very good explanation...well done.
Thank you!
Great tutorial video!
I had the same question as Ben Nielsen.. Do I need to remove the fork tubes from the bike if I'm just putting new seals and dust covers. Also, is this the same procedure for my 1977 CB750K4?
Hey Bruce, reach out to our tech support on our website for more help.
Does this disassembly work for a 1981 Honda cm400a ?
It’s probably not far off, I don’t have a cm400a at the shop though so I couldn’t tell you for sure
I have a CB 500T can I use a 520 sprocket and chain?
If you can find a sprocket front and rear that fits...530 is the standard
You didn't completely disassemble it.. there is still 3 parts in the fork tube.
Will this method work on the 250 nighthawk?
It could frank but we don't currently support and have the model in the shop to give you a for sure answer. With a bit of research you should be able to find out for sure.
Use a rattle gun works every time...even a cheap one will do the job...
Money shot lol!
That original fork oil looks terrible lol damn
So what do you do to get the bolt loose on the bottom of it doesn’t break loose after using the heat gun and all that?