This mixer was a bottom of the line unit, having no chrome, juicer port or a place to add a timer to the stand. The mix guide was a decal or screen print on the white surface of the motor body. They were first manufactured around 1965 were the last HB stand mixers to have the 5 year guarantee.The motor was rated 120 or 150 watts having the same motor parts as the model H. I surprised you did not create a decal to print a MixGuide next to the speed selector. I have always wanted to create my own personal MixGuide to customize a mixer.
Thanks for the info Russ! The shaft that went where the juicer port would normally be, tapered at the top, but was perfectly round, not squared off for a juicer attachment, also the solid plate on top showed there was no attachment point. To me that seems like the same amount of effort went into it to delete the juicer capabilities.
Thanks again, I wasn't sure about the cord, but the owner has also messaged me and said it was original, and was taped up over a worn spot at some point. As always, appreciate all the info!
Because I find it so difficult to remove and reinsert the spring on those bearings I'm going to do a heat test to duplicate the time they would spend in the oven to see if that felt wick would survive relatively undamaged.
I would think the wick would survive, its most likely the residue on the wick that would be a problem. The heat would probably harden it, unless you could clean it well. Maybe spray it out well with brake cleaner or some other solvent if that's an issue? Let me know how it works out when you try it!
Hi Jim! I think they are sold out of a lot of the parts I used to get, now I can get a lot of feet from another ebay seller named dangoodbuy . They are all basically just rubber bumpers, and can be found in many shapes and sizes. The feet are the same on many of the HB models, I believe from D and up.
Russ, I don't have one of each to measure and say for sure, but they do all look identical, every part seems to be the same, electrically I believe they are identical.
I’m restoring a mixmaster at the moment and was wondering where you get the new decals? Also is there a way to repair a cruddy resistor and if not is there good new replacements for them and the capacitors or do you need to try to find old ones?
@@studly1891 Hi, I make all my own decals, but for the mixmasters there are some waterslide decals for sale by others, I believe on ebay and etsy. I do suppose you could recoat the resistors in ceramic, or something that can handle the kind of heat they put out. You can buy brand new capacitors for the mixmasters from davesrepair.com as well. I might try to get lead extension in a video if I can, I usually cu the original lead close to the coil, and add a longer wire, soldering and heat shrinking it where it attaches. Hope this helps!
@@studly1891 no, I do not, I print them on clear labels designed for shipping, holds up to wear and water very well. I print them and coat the decal sheet in clear coat, then it is just peel and stick. Most people use the waterslides and stick them to the machine, then clear coat the whole thing with the decal on, I dont have that option with powder coat.
That’s cool. Thanks and keep up the awesome videos. Making me wanting to get into restoring old appliances. My hate for things made now days keeps growing. Thank goodness for people like you.
Hi There-- My mixer looks quite similar but the front is screeching like mad hell. There is no bearing on the front end of the rotor? The squeel is not coming from the gearhead. What do you think the issue is?
This mixer was a bottom of the line unit, having no chrome, juicer port or a place to add a timer to the stand. The mix guide was a decal or screen print on the white surface of the motor body. They were first manufactured around 1965 were the last HB stand mixers to have the 5 year guarantee.The motor was rated 120 or 150 watts having the same motor parts as the model H. I surprised you did not create a decal to print a MixGuide next to the speed selector. I have always wanted to create my own personal MixGuide to customize a mixer.
Thanks for the info Russ! The shaft that went where the juicer port would normally be, tapered at the top, but was perfectly round, not squared off for a juicer attachment, also the solid plate on top showed there was no attachment point. To me that seems like the same amount of effort went into it to delete the juicer capabilities.
The cord was most likely original to the mixer, round, grey was used by most HB stand mixers having a permanently attached cords
Thanks again, I wasn't sure about the cord, but the owner has also messaged me and said it was original, and was taped up over a worn spot at some point. As always, appreciate all the info!
Because I find it so difficult to remove and reinsert the spring on those bearings I'm going to do a heat test to duplicate the time they would spend in the oven to see if that felt wick would survive relatively undamaged.
I would think the wick would survive, its most likely the residue on the wick that would be a problem. The heat would probably harden it, unless you could clean it well. Maybe spray it out well with brake cleaner or some other solvent if that's an issue?
Let me know how it works out when you try it!
Also where can one find brush replacements?
Hi Rick, I tried the part # 2092 you showed in an earlier video for the feet at Dawniewood; no results. Do earlier HB models use the same feet?
Hi Jim! I think they are sold out of a lot of the parts I used to get, now I can get a lot of feet from another ebay seller named dangoodbuy . They are all basically just rubber bumpers, and can be found in many shapes and sizes. The feet are the same on many of the HB models, I believe from D and up.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks, Rick.
Rick, are there any differences between the armatures of model H, model K and the model M2B?
Russ, I don't have one of each to measure and say for sure, but they do all look identical, every part seems to be the same, electrically I believe they are identical.
Can you please tell me the type and specifications of the capacitor in this model?
I’m restoring a mixmaster at the moment and was wondering where you get the new decals? Also is there a way to repair a cruddy resistor and if not is there good new replacements for them and the capacitors or do you need to try to find old ones?
Also could you do a more detailed video of extending leads and how you hook the wiring back up?
@@studly1891 Hi, I make all my own decals, but for the mixmasters there are some waterslide decals for sale by others, I believe on ebay and etsy. I do suppose you could recoat the resistors in ceramic, or something that can handle the kind of heat they put out. You can buy brand new capacitors for the mixmasters from davesrepair.com as well. I might try to get lead extension in a video if I can, I usually cu the original lead close to the coil, and add a longer wire, soldering and heat shrinking it where it attaches. Hope this helps!
Yes that helps thanks. my leads are junk. Do you print your emblem on waterside paper?
@@studly1891 no, I do not, I print them on clear labels designed for shipping, holds up to wear and water very well. I print them and coat the decal sheet in clear coat, then it is just peel and stick. Most people use the waterslides and stick them to the machine, then clear coat the whole thing with the decal on, I dont have that option with powder coat.
That’s cool. Thanks and keep up the awesome videos. Making me wanting to get into restoring old appliances. My hate for things made now days keeps growing. Thank goodness for people like you.
Hi There-- My mixer looks quite similar but the front is screeching like mad hell. There is no bearing on the front end of the rotor? The squeel is not coming from the gearhead. What do you think the issue is?
Just came across a model m. Is it worth finding mixers for it? Where can I find information about it.
How much do you charge to work on a mixer? I have my moms Hamilton beach but don’t want to
Go as deep as you are and can’t powder coat.