Wow, that was as ton of work! Of course this needs a soft wood, such as bass wood or perhaps even the super soft balsa wood. I know your fantastic work from many of your other videos, so I didn't think for a monent this wouldn't come out beautifully, even though it looked quite messy for a monent. Your feel for the tools and materiais is stunning! It's very tricky working with hard woods here, free hand, coming up with perfectly smooth complex curves without damaging any of the bullheads! You are both a master craftswoman and an artist!
@@OlhaBatchvarov well I many years ago I attempted to build wooden ship kits, three of them two layer plank-on-bulkhead, but I failed miserably. I'm very happy to know your channel exists. The instruction booklets leave out a lot if crucial information. You show it all and even how to take it to the next level. I have books about planking and rigging techniques and how it's done on the originals. You follow it all exactly and beautifully and then some. Top level!
A video on December 25, a real gift. Thank you! Only 1 layer of planking on this rounded hull, that will not be easy. I have no doubts about your success. My best wishes for the end of the year to you and your loved ones - stay safe!
Bonjour Olha. Pas trop de problème non plus pour remplir les espaces. Pour ma prochaine maquette j’essaierai de faire des blocs qui ne dépassent pas trop afin d’avoir moins de ponçage. Je manie de mieux en mieux ma scie sur table Birne que je recommande fortement. Je ne pourrais plus m’en passer.
Again an amazing work done here !! I am really impressed by your skills and I do absolutely admire it ! Always great to watch a video because it is really instructif
Hi, i discovered your channel a few days ago, and what I have seen so far is awesome, your skill and passion is outstanding . For the extra Timber you used to glue between the Frames, cut them if possible to 3 x 10 mm and the frame distance you need and glue them in the a way so that the timber protrudes the Frames by a half mm . This way you have less to sand . And if you have some pumps in the hull don't use filler , if possible use balsa wood to fill and sand it so you can stay by wood and you can use wood glue , on a plastic or another filler the wood glue doesn't hold.
Thank you! I use balsa only when I need to form a surface, but when I need to hammer in nails - I prefer linden or boxwood. In this case, you get a strong enough surface on which you can bend planks withe the soldering iron or clamp the planks with nails. Balsa under such pressure simply rumpled, and nails do not hold strongly enough...
@@OlhaBatchvarov Hi , it seems you misunderstood me or I make it not clear enough. between the frames you can use your wood so you can nail the planks, when you sand the planked hull and you find out you need some filler , than my suggestion was use Balsa wood and no filler most wood glues does not hold on Fillers,
@@OlhaBatchvarov Another suggestion, maybe you will give it a try. I've seen you have the Amati Blank Bender . When you have a double planked hull and you have the first planking completed , put wood glue over the entire Hull let it dry, maybe you have to repeat the step. Water your planks for about ten to fifteen minutes depending on the wood , prepare your planks as usual apply some wood glue to the plank and use your plank bender and glue the planks to the hull , they will glue immediately like super glue, once to get used to it it will speed up the planking process no nails needed you have to pull out afterwards.Keep up the good work .Oh and don't worry you can glue wet planks with wood Glue once dry the glue is dry too. if you stick with your method. Wood and superglue are the only Glues you can glue wet wood.
2nd. guitar reference - on ebay you can find curved sanding blocks (for use on guitar necks,) and curvature gauges, for very reasonable prices; which may be of some use to you. As a guitar builder, I relate your shaping of the hull, to the work I do in the curvature of the body of an electric guitar!
It's just that at that moment I didn't have any sanding tool! But I really wanted to build! And in any case - the final sanding should be done by hand after any tool if you want to get a perfect surface...
Like your problem solving techniques. If you build this model again may I suggest drawing out one piece block spacers trace from bulkheads before assembly for thickness and profile as they could be one piece. Would balsa wood work?
Thank you very much! I prefer linden because the balm is very soft and easily deformed under the pressure of the planks. Only this time I had nothing but pine and maple ...
An immense amount of extra timber to sort out all the complex convexity about the hull. Sadly you didn't have more of the softer woods to deal with all the voids that needed attention. Sure linden is rather difficult to source in some locations. Your determination will surely prevail over the arduous task that still lays ahead. Stay safe and be very well.
That's such slow work when you use a hardwood like maple. I'm using balsa for speed, but double planking with basswood strips and then the hardwood veneer planking. The balsa just ensures the proper curvature of the basswood. By itself it would be too soft as you said. If you use one layer of planking, your hull form supporting it underneath has to be very precise, which takes even more time. You hull is shaping up beautifully, Olha. It's going to be a gorgeous ship.
What type of wood do you use for between the bolt kids I am very very new at this . I was given as a gift the Shenandoah 1776 I think definitely not a beginner ship
This model is a bad example of wood - I loaded her with all the scraps I found in the workshop. It is best to use linden or basswood to filling the spaces. This wood can be found in hobby shops...
Molto bello . Userò nella prossima costruzione. Lunga ma efficace. Solo una domanda , perché non hai usato un levigatore mouse??? Lo uso da molto , leviga benissimo e fa risparmiare tantissimo tempo. Comunque davveroni miei complimenti. Sto imparando molto da te. Grazie.
Something I thought off as saw you individually sanding down the blocks while in their full square form was that it might save a few sanding bits if you used a good knife to cut away part of the block before going in for sanding. Although as I am writing it this it does occur to me that might put too much stress on the hull. Fruit for thought I suppose! :)
In general, it is best to have not only a knife, but also the right wood for this (basswood or linden), and not to use wood trimmings from the workshop of hardwoods)))
Bonjou Olha J'attends avec impatience l'arrivéé de mon Kit Ragussian Je regarde tes video avec attention Une question : comment choisis tu les endroit qu'il faut remplir avec du bois.?
Ce sera une aventure incroyable ! Si vous avez suffisamment de bois, il vaut mieux remplir tous les espaces. J'ai regretté de ne pas avoir fait ça sur mon modèle. Le corps a des lignes très complexes qui sont difficiles à planifier et si je remplissais complètement tous les espaces, cela rendrait le travail beaucoup plus facile...
Вчера пропустил ваш вопрос по поводу подойдет ли FD 150 для пушек. Теоретически подойдет, но ему будет тяжеловато, нужно будет правильно подобрать марку латуни, бывают очень вязкие сплавы которые требуют жесткости станка, а есть сыпучие которые точатся очень легко. На рынке США есть станки Sherline, они вроде сопоставимы по цене с Proxxon. У них чугунная станина и качество вроде получше, есть очень много разных комплектаций станка, под любые деньги. Есть также на рынке США станки Taig, они тоже очень не плохие, с хорошей станиной(а это в станке самая важная деталь, которая влияет на жесткость всей конструкции, а в последствие и на точность обработки и чистоту обработки детали). Дешевле чем Sherline, есть множество комплектаций, можно собирать станок из отдельных запчастей под свои нужды. Так что Proxxon FD150 советую рассматривать в последнюю очередь, Ссылки не вставляю, иначе комментарий уйдет в спам.
Спасибо, Алексей! А работы с токарниками нету - по этому не знаю даже куда смотреть. Попробую на Amazon поискать и там ещё отзывы почитать. Спасибо большое!
This is quite a difficult question! Because none of them were the same size. This is an assortment of rubber bands - a whole box of different diameters and widths...
Yes, balsa is easy to work with but it is very soft and it is not possible to bend hardwood planks and it does not hold nails. This is very important at the next stage - so basswood or linden is best for this. Or all the trimmings that are at hand (that's how I got here maple))))
Доброго времени суток! MarisStella обБІчно бЬІвает в локальнЬІх судомодельнЬІх магазинах. Или можно прямо с афициального сайта производителя - линк в описании под видео. Ютюб блокирует коментарии с сЬІлками по етому я пишу их под видео...
На модели один слой обшивки и рейки в носу нужно не только гнуть а и прижимать чем-то. В пенопласт гвозди не забьеш... Так же и бальза не подходит в этом случае.
That maple is definitely going to make the hull super strong but I think I would’ve went somewhere to get something softer like more pine or maybe basswood. That looks like it’s a major pain in the butt. Lol.
At that time I had no other wood than maple! And to go somewhere - it's not about me))) I'm not a driver, and ask my husband to take me somewhere - it's a nightmare - he really does not like to go somewhere ...
@@OlhaBatchvarov that’s unfortunate. Have you ever been to this website www.dlumberyard.com? It’s a fantastic website for wood for model ship building and for some very nice kits. The kits are true plank on frame. Check it out if you haven’t already. Oh yeah, congratulations on your one year anniversary for your channel. It’s quickly become my favorite go-to channel for model ships. Keep up the great content. 😘
@@OlhaBatchvarov I also didn’t realize that linden is basswood. That stuff is all over the place around here. Too bad you’re on the other side of the planet otherwise I would send you some. I’m guessing you’re in Russia or Eastern Europe.
Това е школата на украинските моделисти, без “черновая обшивка”, нали? Дали е по-лесно и точно? Как го виждате след години опит и пак ли бихте го направили по метода на запълването? P.S.: Бъчваров е българска фамилия, да не сме рода?
При еднослойна облицовка всички пространства трябва да бъдат напълно запълнени. Просто нямах дърва за това! Разбирам български, но не го говоря. Съпругът ми е българин!
You need to find a maker of electric guitars, to make use of their off-cuts, as linden (American basswood of English lime ) is usually used to make guitar bodies.
@@СергейЖанов-п4п Бальза черезчур мягкая и вминается под натиском рейки (она годится при двуслойной обшивке). По етому липа лучше при однослойной и так же легко обрабатьІвается руками. Но так как у меня под рукой бьІл только клен - вьІбор бьІл прост строить из того что есть сейчас или месяц ждать древесину с учетом праздников. Ну да, - я потратила пол дня на то что бьІ срезать лишнее, но с карбидовьІм бором пошло как по маслу... Пока моя липа придет - я уже обшивку закончу. В новой мастерской еще много чем нужно запастись, но не все и сразу!..
Wow, that was as ton of work! Of course this needs a soft wood, such as bass wood or perhaps even the super soft balsa wood. I know your fantastic work from many of your other videos, so I didn't think for a monent this wouldn't come out beautifully, even though it looked quite messy for a monent. Your feel for the tools and materiais is stunning! It's very tricky working with hard woods here, free hand, coming up with perfectly smooth complex curves without damaging any of the bullheads! You are both a master craftswoman and an artist!
Thank you very much!
Yes, sometimes the desire to build makes me use wood that is not very suitable but it is available)))
@@OlhaBatchvarov well I many years ago I attempted to build wooden ship kits, three of them two layer plank-on-bulkhead, but I failed miserably. I'm very happy to know your channel exists. The instruction booklets leave out a lot if crucial information. You show it all and even how to take it to the next level. I have books about planking and rigging techniques and how it's done on the originals. You follow it all exactly and beautifully and then some. Top level!
Walnut for internal dowels seems like an expensive option! Beautiful work as always.
Thank you!
A video on December 25, a real gift. Thank you!
Only 1 layer of planking on this rounded hull, that will not be easy. I have no doubts about your success.
My best wishes for the end of the year to you and your loved ones - stay safe!
Thank you!
And happy holidays to you!
Yes, one layer of planks - that's why I put so much wood in the hull!
This will make the job easier.
Bonjour Olha. Pas trop de problème non plus pour remplir les espaces. Pour ma prochaine maquette j’essaierai de faire des blocs qui ne dépassent pas trop afin d’avoir moins de ponçage. Je manie de mieux en mieux ma scie sur table Birne que je recommande fortement. Je ne pourrais plus m’en passer.
I couldn';t afford the Carrack so I bought the Cog. I suspect the skills and proceedures here will help with that build. Wish me luck.
This collection of Ragusian ships is fun to build!
You will definitely like it!
Your work is amazing! Lots of fun to watch as well as inspirational. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Je reviens voir le montage pour le plaisir de mains expertes ..
Again an amazing work done here !! I am really impressed by your skills and I do absolutely admire it ! Always great to watch a video because it is really instructif
Thank you very much 😀
Come sempre un magnifico lavoro , brava brava
Grazie!
Hi, i discovered your channel a few days ago, and what I have seen so far is awesome, your skill and passion is outstanding . For the extra Timber you used to glue between the Frames, cut them if possible to 3 x 10 mm and the frame distance you need and glue them in the a way so that the timber protrudes the Frames by a half mm . This way you have less to sand . And if you have some pumps in the hull don't use filler , if possible use balsa wood to fill and sand it so you can stay by wood and you can use wood glue , on a plastic or another filler the wood glue doesn't hold.
Thank you!
I use balsa only when I need to form a surface, but when I need to hammer in nails - I prefer linden or boxwood. In this case, you get a strong enough surface on which you can bend planks withe the soldering iron or clamp the planks with nails. Balsa under such pressure simply rumpled, and nails do not hold strongly enough...
@@OlhaBatchvarov Hi , it seems you misunderstood me or I make it not clear enough. between the frames you can use your wood so you can nail the planks, when you sand the planked hull and you find out you need some filler , than my suggestion was use Balsa wood and no filler most wood glues does not hold on Fillers,
@@OlhaBatchvarov Another suggestion, maybe you will give it a try. I've seen you have the Amati Blank Bender . When you have a double planked hull and you have the first planking completed , put wood glue over the entire Hull let it dry, maybe you have to repeat the step. Water your planks for about ten to fifteen minutes depending on the wood , prepare your planks as usual apply some wood glue to the plank and use your plank bender and glue the planks to the hull , they will glue immediately like super glue, once to get used to it it will speed up the planking process no nails needed you have to pull out afterwards.Keep up the good work .Oh and don't worry you can glue wet planks with wood Glue once dry the glue is dry too. if you stick with your method. Wood and superglue are the only Glues you can glue wet wood.
Super, Olha! Thx for showing this. Merry Xmas.
Thank you! Merry Christmas to you too!
Como siempre un lujo ver tus vídeos. Y Feliz Navidad.
¡Gracias! ¡Y felices fiestas para ti!
Merry Christmas and God Bless
Thank you! And you too!
Absolutely gorgeous!!!
Thank you very much!!
Eres una artista, enhorabuena por tus trabajos👍👍
Gracias!
Будем пристально следить за данной постройкой!👍
Спасибо!
Значит придется строить дальше)))
great work...
Thank you!
2nd. guitar reference - on ebay you can find curved sanding blocks (for use on guitar necks,) and curvature gauges, for very reasonable prices; which may be of some use to you. As a guitar builder, I relate your shaping of the hull, to the work I do in the curvature of the body of an electric guitar!
There is something in it - something that attracts - the shape of the ship, as well as the guitars enchant with their elegant hull!
mery xmas, for so far that is posible, and looking forward to your builds and tips !!
Thanks!
And happy holidays to you!
Excelente trabajo como siempre y Feliz Navidad!
¡Gracias!
Why not use a small triangular electric sander instead of the sand paper? I used it often with my "San Giovanni Battista" and it worked very well.
It's just that at that moment I didn't have any sanding tool! But I really wanted to build! And in any case - the final sanding should be done by hand after any tool if you want to get a perfect surface...
Like your problem solving techniques. If you build this model again may I suggest drawing out one piece block spacers trace from bulkheads before assembly for thickness and profile as they could be one piece. Would balsa wood work?
Thank you very much!
I prefer linden because the balm is very soft and easily deformed under the pressure of the planks.
Only this time I had nothing but pine and maple ...
Absolutely amazing....Hard way for planking :))
Glad you liked it!
I'm not looking for easy ways)))
An immense amount of extra timber to sort out all the complex convexity about the hull. Sadly you didn't have more of the softer woods to deal with all the voids that needed attention. Sure linden is rather difficult to source in some locations. Your determination will surely prevail over the arduous task that still lays ahead. Stay safe and be very well.
That's such slow work when you use a hardwood like maple. I'm using balsa for speed, but double planking with basswood strips and then the hardwood veneer planking. The balsa just ensures the proper curvature of the basswood. By itself it would be too soft as you said. If you use one layer of planking, your hull form supporting it underneath has to be very precise, which takes even more time. You hull is shaping up beautifully, Olha. It's going to be a gorgeous ship.
Thank you!
I hope this will be enough to arrange a layer of planks!
@@OlhaBatchvarov No doubt at all. It should support the planks very well.
What type of wood do you use for between the bolt kids I am very very new at this . I was given as a gift the Shenandoah 1776 I think definitely not a beginner ship
This model is a bad example of wood - I loaded her with all the scraps I found in the workshop.
It is best to use linden or basswood to filling the spaces. This wood can be found in hobby shops...
@@OlhaBatchvarov
What do think is a good ship for a beginner.
Molto bello . Userò nella prossima costruzione. Lunga ma efficace. Solo una domanda , perché non hai usato un levigatore mouse??? Lo uso da molto , leviga benissimo e fa risparmiare tantissimo tempo. Comunque davveroni miei complimenti. Sto imparando molto da te. Grazie.
Grazie!
Uso solo gli strumenti che ho a portata di mano...
Something I thought off as saw you individually sanding down the blocks while in their full square form was that it might save a few sanding bits if you used a good knife to cut away part of the block before going in for sanding. Although as I am writing it this it does occur to me that might put too much stress on the hull. Fruit for thought I suppose! :)
In general, it is best to have not only a knife, but also the right wood for this (basswood or linden), and not to use wood trimmings from the workshop of hardwoods)))
Bonjou Olha
J'attends avec impatience l'arrivéé de mon Kit Ragussian
Je regarde tes video avec attention
Une question : comment choisis tu les endroit qu'il faut remplir avec du bois.?
Pourquoi n’avoir pas utilisé une ponceuse pour le plus gros et ensuite finir à la mini perceuse ?
Ce sera une aventure incroyable !
Si vous avez suffisamment de bois, il vaut mieux remplir tous les espaces. J'ai regretté de ne pas avoir fait ça sur mon modèle. Le corps a des lignes très complexes qui sont difficiles à planifier et si je remplissais complètement tous les espaces, cela rendrait le travail beaucoup plus facile...
Je n'avais pas de ponceuse à cette époque ! Mais vous avez tout à fait raison, cela peut être appliqué !
Вчера пропустил ваш вопрос по поводу подойдет ли FD 150 для пушек. Теоретически подойдет, но ему будет тяжеловато, нужно будет правильно подобрать марку латуни, бывают очень вязкие сплавы которые требуют жесткости станка, а есть сыпучие которые точатся очень легко. На рынке США есть станки Sherline, они вроде сопоставимы по цене с Proxxon. У них чугунная станина и качество вроде получше, есть очень много разных комплектаций станка, под любые деньги. Есть также на рынке США станки Taig, они тоже очень не плохие, с хорошей станиной(а это в станке самая важная деталь, которая влияет на жесткость всей конструкции, а в последствие и на точность обработки и чистоту обработки детали). Дешевле чем Sherline, есть множество комплектаций, можно собирать станок из отдельных запчастей под свои нужды. Так что Proxxon FD150 советую рассматривать в последнюю очередь, Ссылки не вставляю, иначе комментарий уйдет в спам.
Спасибо, Алексей! А работы с токарниками нету - по этому не знаю даже куда смотреть. Попробую на Amazon поискать и там ещё отзывы почитать. Спасибо большое!
Olha, this might sound strange, but what size rubber bands are you using?
This is quite a difficult question! Because none of them were the same size. This is an assortment of rubber bands - a whole box of different diameters and widths...
@@OlhaBatchvarov Perfect! That will be easy to find.
Tous ces ajout de bois sont-ils ils fournis dans le kit sinon est-ce vraiment indispensable
C'est du bois supplémentaire que j'ai ajouté moi-même!
👍👍👍👌👌👌 nice 😍😍😍
Many many thanks
สวย
ขอบคุณ!
wouldn't balsawood be easier to use for fill ?
Yes, balsa is easy to work with but it is very soft and it is not possible to bend hardwood planks and it does not hold nails. This is very important at the next stage - so basswood or linden is best for this. Or all the trimmings that are at hand (that's how I got here maple))))
Добрный день. Подскажите : где можно приобрести такой набор ?
Доброго времени суток!
MarisStella обБІчно бЬІвает в локальнЬІх судомодельнЬІх магазинах. Или можно прямо с афициального сайта производителя - линк в описании под видео. Ютюб блокирует коментарии с сЬІлками по етому я пишу их под видео...
@@OlhaBatchvarov благодарю
I prefer kits that are double-planked, as I find it easier and more "forgiving" towards mistakes.
Yes, you are absolutely right! But if you fill the spaces - the result will be the same as with double-planked!
Почему дерево, ведь есть жёсткий пенопласт он хорошо обрабатывается.
На модели один слой обшивки и рейки в носу нужно не только гнуть а и прижимать чем-то. В пенопласт гвозди не забьеш... Так же и бальза не подходит в этом случае.
Can I ask for the blueprint?
Link in the description under the video!
@@OlhaBatchvarov which link
That maple is definitely going to make the hull super strong but I think I would’ve went somewhere to get something softer like more pine or maybe basswood. That looks like it’s a major pain in the butt. Lol.
At that time I had no other wood than maple! And to go somewhere - it's not about me))) I'm not a driver, and ask my husband to take me somewhere - it's a nightmare - he really does not like to go somewhere ...
@@OlhaBatchvarov that’s unfortunate. Have you ever been to this website www.dlumberyard.com? It’s a fantastic website for wood for model ship building and for some very nice kits. The kits are true plank on frame. Check it out if you haven’t already. Oh yeah, congratulations on your one year anniversary for your channel. It’s quickly become my favorite go-to channel for model ships. Keep up the great content. 😘
@@OlhaBatchvarov I also didn’t realize that linden is basswood. That stuff is all over the place around here. Too bad you’re on the other side of the planet otherwise I would send you some. I’m guessing you’re in Russia or Eastern Europe.
Това е школата на украинските моделисти, без “черновая обшивка”, нали? Дали е по-лесно и точно? Как го виждате след години опит и пак ли бихте го направили по метода на запълването? P.S.: Бъчваров е българска фамилия, да не сме рода?
При еднослойна облицовка всички пространства трябва да бъдат напълно запълнени. Просто нямах дърва за това!
Разбирам български, но не го говоря. Съпругът ми е българин!
You need to find a maker of electric guitars, to make use of their off-cuts, as linden (American basswood of English lime ) is usually used to make guitar bodies.
II've already found - you just admitted that you build guitars!
@@OlhaBatchvarov Yes, but I live in country Australia; a bit too far to post off-cuts !
Ведь и модель будет намного легче.
Я тоже предпочитаю лёгкие модели, но тут без вариантов - надо заполнять шпации или сдирать шпангоуты и добавлять вторую обшивку...
Почему Вы выбрали такую трудоёмкую технологию?
Зато потом будет легко обшивать корпус. Особенно если в наборе предусмотрет один слой обшивки - лучше полностбю заполнить все шпации.
@@OlhaBatchvarov Да, согласен. Но ведь можно было взять бальзу, а не липу.
@@СергейЖанов-п4п Бальза черезчур мягкая и вминается под натиском рейки (она годится при двуслойной обшивке). По етому липа лучше при однослойной и так же легко обрабатьІвается руками. Но так как у меня под рукой бьІл только клен - вьІбор бьІл прост строить из того что есть сейчас или месяц ждать древесину с учетом праздников. Ну да, - я потратила пол дня на то что бьІ срезать лишнее, но с карбидовьІм бором пошло как по маслу... Пока моя липа придет - я уже обшивку закончу. В новой мастерской еще много чем нужно запастись, но не все и сразу!..