Hey Brett. You need isolation mounts for the pump. The way you mounted it the sound waves just transfer through the bolt so you won’t achieve any sound isolation.
I've installed many water makers. There are TWO aspects to the noise they generate. Hard contact energy transfer (mounts) and air evergy transfer. As to the mounts, the pump needs total isolation rubber bushing mounts. ZERO metal to metal contact, the second aspect done in the video is the sound dampening material. You would be better off using 4" SOUND-DOWN. It is not cheap, The build design of sound down is what makes it such a good isolator. By design it has a silver mylar surface face (thickness depending) with 2" of foam, then a lead/rubber center sheet. the middle layer is about 1/4" thick, then an other 2" of foam. It is heavy by design, requires FAST FOAM 74 and hanger pins for vertical and upside down mounting. Then entire bed box would need to be coated with different thicknesses as needed. The other option is to generate a sound down coated wood box inside and out around the pump.The box its self will also need to be isolated from hard mounting to the bed. That will drop the sound if done well by 20-50 %. If you have questions I'm a master marine tech with decades in the bizz and YES I'm in south florida.
and right now the air insulation is mostly pointless because the vibration through the mounting is basically causing the entire hull to act as a sounding board.
Recommendation; Get a borescope camera and magnet attachment if you don't already have one. They are cheap and can save you hours trying to retrieve little metal parts that have disappeared into the nether regions of your boat.
A knife that holds an edge like crazy is the Kershaw Leek. (Don't remember why all the knives have onion themed names.) It absolutely will not close on you. It has a torsion bar opening and can always be opened one handed in two different ways. Positively requires two hands to close. The instructions advise strongly to not try to open it with two hands, however. I learned that the hard way a few minutes after I bought it - The torsion bar acts as a surprise little spring and the tip buried itself in the palm of my free hand. Lifetime guarantee against anything including carelessness or stupidity. Perfect knife for me. I partly destroyed mine when I laid down a motorcycle.
Build a sound proof box and mount the pump in the box. Leave room for airflow. Have a hose feeding air in and out. Use a convoluted hose with bends and have chambers off the hose to muffle the sound.
Nice work Brett. After cruising for 14 years the number one tool I used was a heat gun. You have to get rid of that butane lighter for heat shrinking electrical connections. You will burn yourself or start a fire at some point with that lighter. Heat guns are quick and easy and much safer. Good luck!
I have only recently found you on you tube. I am binge watching as am sick at home and your vlog is so watchable. Welldone. I love the channel and you are both amazing. I would love to have your energy and commitment.From a Kiwi lad of 62 in Cambridge NZ
ProTip: when replacing wiring, use the old wire to pull the new wire in directly off the spool or coil... another nice trick is to also pull one or more string or twine to use for pull lines later in case you want/need to pull more wire through the same route... try to keep the strings parallel with the wire as you pull it in... you don't want it to wrap around the length of the wire for obvious reasons 😉anyway, nice job! keep up the good work! 😺
Been gone a while.. Bret I will never get tired of watching boat work!! You guys are a great family an fun to watch!! Take care of your health... In the end it's your inner engine like your vessel that must be looked after an cared for... I wish you good health an love . Thanks for sharing your lives with us.... Fare winds an following sea's guy's ✌🏼💗😊❣️
Long flexible metal rod with magnet on the end to pick up lost metal objects down deep holes with limited access (like bilges), available at Harbor freight for less than 10 bucks! Voila, no more worrying about those lost or dropped screws. Have a nicer day and don't sweat the small stuff (and its all small stuff according to my grandfather).
So happy to see you putting the packets of stuff in containers. Reduces chances of cockroaches on board. You also need to remove the labels and glue from food cans👍👏
Hi noise control is sometines called vibration isolation. To achieve true isolation, any rubber has to compress 20% on it's own. Ie before any bolts or screws are tightened. Most engine mounts are constructed with upper bolt that do not connect through the rubber to the hull. Secondly the connecting pipes can transmit the Vibration. The way to fix this is to make a loop with each pipe and each connecting wire. And yes I was an acoustics engineer.
Hi, what you need is isolation rubbers. The bolt through the rubber still transmits the vibration to the wood that acts as a resonator. The isolation is separate bolts in a rubber compound. You should be able to get them through amazon or local mechanical supply dealer.
I think that you have three problems with the acoustics of the pump. 1) The pump is not rated as being for quiet operation. There is a noticeable difference between a normal pump and motor and a quiet version. 2) The pump sits on a thin timber board that acts like a sounding board to amplify the sound. It really ought to sit on a sold base that has a significant mass. I would normally use a concrete paving slab cut to shape and then glue that down onto the board with an interlayer of medium density foam (particle foam is quite useful as it is made up of different densities that attenuate different frequencies). The pump has to be fixed to the concrete and not through bolted to the base board. 3) AV dampers are not through bolted as the vibration transfers through the fixing bolt to the base. AV dampers are usually a block of rubber with bonded bolts top and bottom to secure to the pump and the base so that there is rubber between the solid fixings. On land the AV dampers can be just placed without bolting to the mas base but where there is motion they need to be bolted to both motor and mass base. One acoustic enclosure that I have been particularly impressed with is one that is a full box shape made of rubber sheet with an interlayer of lead, the acoustic attenuation is remarkable. The rubber absorbs the higher frequencies and the lead damps the low frequencies. This unit is completely loose to allow the sheet to flex freely.
As a boater myself when it comes to sound deadening with little intrusion I have used Butyl car sound deadening material, It has Hex embossed aluminium backing for heat isolation and is Very soft & flexible for easy installation. Might be the go to for many issues for you. With the water maker maybe a sound isolation box around it taking in heat dissapation and never forget the surrounding hull structure will resonate from any sound with or without a deadening box!
Brett, you need to isolate the pump motor bolts from the boat mounting. That will help a little more but I don't think it will reduce it anymore 3 to 5db. Good Luck.
GO PRO 9 = 1720ma/h GO PRO 10 = 4900ma/h I'm a plumbing and heating engineer and CT1 spary is a must for me. Removes all sorts of items including glues etc. Normally used for removing CT1 silicone. Oh and thanks for reading the comment's puts a smile on our faces.
@@ExpeditionEvans , Heart attack pictures, fatty foods is animaIs cIogged arteries : ua-cam.com/video/15wgYsToORM/v-deo.html !!! ua-cam.com/video/pFPFnhfuLrE/v-deo.html Vegans don’t have this problem because that is the animals. Vegans don’t get clogged arteries, 4% cancer if you’re vegan. Meat based diet 51% death rate. That is extremely high for a frigging burger etc. Gorillas in the wild, have 1 percent cancer. And they never ever eat animals !!! Peer review science !!!! UA-cam delicious vegan food. Time to change ✅❤️😉.
To cut down the water maker noise or anything like it. Rubber mount it (like an engine) cut up a cutting board, hockey puck ect. To make shims/block between the shaky motor and the surface it mounts to. Stop the harmonic of the wood or fiberglass. That’s what I would try anyway. Good luck.
There is a debonder for super glue but nail polish remover works. Also the foam will soften the sound but not stop it, your motor is in a drum. Use the same kind of stuff that is in your engine room. You guys are doing a great job well done.
Nice job on all the projects. If you decide to change the lights in other locations, you might want to go for a warmer temperature they often will call them warm white but that really doesn't tell you anything. Look for a kelvin temp of 2700 or 3000. The higher kelvin no. the bluer it is, lower - warmer. They will still be very bright if they are LEDs but also compare foot candles if there is more than one option - higher = brighter.
Remember that 3dB less is achieved by halving the noise level. So 2dB down is not that bad for using rubber mountings, a thin layer of dampening material on the lids and some random placed pieces on the walls.
I’ve done a few fresh water pumps and had a lot of success. Lightly restrained SOFT mounts with no metal to metal contact is the key. I’ve even used only two holes and made a third point of suspension because the pump’s center of gravity was not in the mounting flange and caused heavy twisting on the rubber mounts. Also isolate the hoses from the hull, bulkheads or anything that can act as a sounding board. Soft foam rubber spacers or rubber suspension strips can help. My one concern however is heat. That pump is quite powerful and much of its energy is putting out heat in that small enclosed space. On a hot day and a long running time I’d be concerned. For the time being I’d like to a little monitoring thermometer just to be sure.
When we have installed our water pump on our boat we worked out that a lot of the noise actually came through the pipes. We covered as much of the inlet and outflow pipes with closed sell insulating pipe. This cut out a huge amount of noise.
Soundproofing is not easy. The material you use are good for tuning a room reverberation but not for soundproofing. The first thing is to make sure you do not transmit vibration to the structure. You need to try different rubber mounts to find the hardness that fit best with the motor vibration characteristics. Then you need to enclose as much as possible the space to prevent air from leaking out. Any opening will let noise getting out. It becomes an issue if you need to dissipate heat from the motor. Then there is the possibility to design a maze so the sound waves lose energy while going through it. This is what the silencer does on a vehicle exhaust. The next thing to do is to use heavy materials on all the walls to absorb the energy. Dynamat is a well known brand used in car audio. You can double than with Greenglue.
You need rubber gasket on both sides of the wood shelf. From top to bottom: nut, washer, water maker, rubber gasket, wood shelf, rubber gasket, washer, bolt head. Ideally, a rubber bushing in the hole of the wood support the bolt would pass through. This would isolate all rigid mounting from the super structure of the boat. Depending on if the motor heats up during use, insulate around the motor.
5000k light is for work areas like an office or kitchen. Looking at that light spectrum prior to sleeping will make it harder to get to sleep. Nice vid!
For soundproofing, what you want is a product called Dynamat - it's foamed butyl rubber with an adhesive backing, used in the auto stereo industry to dampen sound. Since it is butyl, it should also be pretty moisture/mold resistant.
You need a more solid of a base plate for the motor ( Looks like it is wood now ) to avoid the vibrations.. If it is hollow under the motor it will send an echo sound through out the rest of the void. Also you might need to use rubber bushings at the mount points for the bolts for the mounting plate / board to the hull.
The bolt from the motor base to the wooden panel is transferring the vibration. You need a mount similar to an aircraft military heavy radio isolation mount, If you know any aircraft mechanics/j The wood panels will also work like a guitar and amplify the sound, maybe some draft seal tape around the edges of the panels to insulate them too.
Hello Brett, I think the pump inlet may be getting some air. An other possibility is the pump is too high from the inlet water level and this creates vapor bubbles in the inlet line. That can make it very noisy. And will damage your pump with the cavitation.
Setting here, the high pressure pump sounds like it is cavitating and the pump would normally be jumping around. If so, the inlet pressure of the pump is too low. The systems I'm aware of have a low pressure pump that pressurizes the suction side of the high pressure pump. This also can happen if suction hoses are too small or filters are almost clogged. Cavitation can quickly destroy the pump valves and bearings.
I'm more of a 4000k kind of guy - but good quality LEDs can be transformational. I took out two crappy halogen bulbs from my stove hood and swapped in 5W LEDs and my goodness it is like night and day for stove top illumination. And to think we used to marvel at how good halogen bulbs were...
Personal opinion - I don't believe you'll ever quieten the motor as long as it is mounted on a bulkhead or shell of the boat. I do believe if you reposition it to a floor or keel timber, with proper rubber isolation mounts, properly installed, you will decrease the noise transmission tremendously. As stated, that is personal opinion. Good video.
Like the tagline "Boatwork w/Brett", but would also like to see Jade's boatwork as an occasional segment too... on the cyanocrylate problem, try WD40 or olive oil if you're sensitive to the kerosene/petroleum distillate in WD40. Both are slow acting; so grasp some paper towels or wear gloves to keep you from messing up all the boat with oily fingerprints... wash off after 5-10 minutes. Will likely take two widely spaced (time) treatments to show good results. All you're doing is encouraging your skin to shed the bonded glue with a layer of skin. You could also go swimming and stay in until your fingers "prune up". Your noise problem is only half done.. the other panels and hull are all vibrating directly or indirectly. Hope your energy levels return !
Brett, I am glad you are feeling better and this was a good video. Packed with projects and progress. Let me suggest, just like on a diesel or gas generator, build a sound-deadening box around your electric motor for the water maker. The volume of area youare trying to deaden the sound in is too large for the foam to be effecive. Bring back Jade, she is 75% of what I tune in for :-)
I have been doing so many boat projects that I intend to film, but just don't have the time. Just because of your video about the watermaker, I am filming that one. Seems the hardest part is finding a place for it. I had a gopro 5 (disappeared) and replaced it with a 10. So far the battery last longer than the 5, but I am amazed by the stabilization. Hopefully I can find the time to finish my watermaker (the same one you have without the panel), but getting new trim tabs and the bottom done is crucial. I hope to run into you two someplace in the Bahamas. I plan on getting there by mid May. A little late, but it took almost a year to find a good boat on a budget. Look out for 46 foot MV Lady Bug in your travels. Love your stuff. I have passed to a few others I know.
Brett, magnetic screw bits for the drill, and telescoping small magnet on a stick ( actual tool) helps find dropped screws, nuts, bolts in small spaces under engins ....was fun hanging with just you
Mass is important and often overlooked when it comes to sound proofing. If you could add a heavy rubber matt over the top or under of the bead boards it would probably help (ventilation permitting). Also making the board the pump is mounted on as solid and heavy as possible would probably help reduce noise. The more immovable it is the more the rubber feet will work to absorb the vibration. Also adding weight to the pump will change the frequency to maybe something less intrusive.
i use vhb tape to attach all the windows on my own sailboat. we occasionally bury the rails with the lower parts of the windows underwater for extended periods and the boat is, "berthed" in my front yard in hawaii where it rains nearly every day. Andy at boatworks today used the same stuff on a beautiful sailboat he was restoring. never a drop a water. wonderful stuff.
"Boat Project With Brett" sound good to me. Nice work on the lights and the rewire of the pump motor. As mentioned below, you need isolate mounts for the motor. Try Lord Corporation, a division of Parker. They make a massive line of isolation mounts and bushings. Take care, stay well, don't cut anymore fingers and have a great week ahead.
It's all the sleep irregularity and deprivation, especially keeping watch at night, but never recouping it during the day. Its the same range of health issues that ever rotating shift workers experience with the addition of sea sickness.
You need to add desicates and oxygen removers to your plastic food containers. It keeps your stored dry flours and dry goods fresh. Also, advise storing flour in fridge to keep bugs from hatching in the heat.
This may be a year late but using Dynamat xtrem sound mats should do help reduce the transfer of sound and silence the room. The product is normally used for automobiles to eliminate road noise. hope it helps.
Thank you for the love. I owned and operated an audio/video company for nearly a decade. Built man caves, home theaters, and distributed audio for homeowners to greatly reduce or improve sound quality. Another product that might help is Green Glue. It's a compound used between hard surfaces when building structures. Don't know if it will help in your current build? Again, thanks for your channel. Keep it growing!
U may find that without that edging weight on the shelf will cause it to sag or warp the edging should stop that the grain of the wood would be opposite
Noise arrestor should be heavy and thick, like corrugated lead, thick plank of wood or similar. Corrugated lead vibrates converting noise in heat. Probably lead is no longer allowed but the principle is still on.
Like the lights, i would do the whole boat for power savings. Sound dead-ing. I would look at automotive style. Usually foil coated less chance for mold.
The answer to your pump noise problem maybe an aircraft you have flown, the Q400. That interation of the Dash 8 has ANVS (Active Noise and Vibration Suppression). Call some A&P friends from your previous life and ask them how Dehavilland implemented ANVS, then adapt it to the boat. 😁 I hope you are feeling better! Keep up the great videos and above all STAY SAFE! ⛵❤️😁
Respect your crew duty day. If you're up at 4am finishing up boat jobs, you're burning the candle at both ends. Get your sleep sorted out. Thanks for being honest and open about what's up.
I like your boat job videos and I think you form a great team. There will be plenty of time for sailing, and I like the way you are getting ready for your longer sailing trips. I like following your story, from the beginning with the broken yacht which you have fixed. Keep up the great work and the videos.
Hi Brett, I know the water maker is necessary but that level sound is awfully loud. Have you considered constructing a box with those rubber panels on the inside to block the sound? If those panels don't help much go to the Internet looking for information on audio sound dampening for cars. That stuff is not cheap but it does a good job. Good luck.
For the water pump, you guys should fabricate a box with 1/4 inch rubber box as sound deadening. Ali baba has great deals on stuff like that. I just hope there is enough room and ventilation for that type of setup. It should knock down the loudness considerably....
I have a goPro 10, but it replaced my 5, so I can't speak for the life of the 10 vs 9, but I bought the extended life batteries with the 10 and I can say a single battery will last 4+ hours of skiing (with camera recording about 1/2 the time, but on the whole time) where as the gopro 5 batteries lasted about 2hrs each under similar conditions. Also thanks for the link to the Pup Plank, been looking for something exactly like that for my dog.
I think the majority of the noise is the vibration through the fiberglass that is under the bunk. I bet if you use some of the self adhesive mass vinyl sound mat on the fiberglass around the pump it will make a huge difference in both sound and vibration, you might cut 5 or more decibels.
There are a couple of tools for grabbing screws that have fallen in difficult areas. I was going to suggest the ones with a magnet or just a magnet on a string, but screws on a boat aren't always magnetic.
For the sake of lazy days, and your eyes, I'd suggest adding a warm 3200ish string of rope light, or something, under the cabinets so you can have a little light with out going blind. Great video as always!
I agree. I personally can't stand cool lights in a living area. Makes me feel like walking into an office or a hospital. A total mood killer especially on a sailboat.
Also ensure there some red lights suitable for maintaining night vision whilst on passage. Check, that labels, instruments, etc, are legible under red light too!
Hi Brett and Jade i have just binge watched every episode from the start and as you said in one of your videos my face hurts from all the smiles. Thanks for sharing your adventure i have had a blast watching see you in the next Video. Much love to you both from here in Sheffield UK
OK, I've gotta admit- I loved "Boat Maintenance wif Brett" cuz, it felt like something I would do. While replacing the halogen's with LED's in the master, you couldn't just fix the one broken one (now they don't look the same) so, you replaced them in a pair. Then, you noticed that the one over the door was yellow- so, you replaced it as well. Then, in the bathroom- you noted how terrible they looked in there.... I feel your pain, Brett! I could've (actually WOULD've) stayed up all night, swaped halogen's for LEDs and would've told myself that when on passage I was 'saving' electricity for much more important things. Really, I would've. Welcome to my world.... Hahaha- loved it!
Oh, and congrats for going over 100K subs. I somehow got unsubscribed so I will have to go back and see what I missed. I have been a sub since episode 1. Doing great guys, keep it going.
for living areas you want warm white leds, it has a much nicer light. the harsh white lights are used for work areas!
Hey Brett. You need isolation mounts for the pump. The way you mounted it the sound waves just transfer through the bolt so you won’t achieve any sound isolation.
Agreed, we call them Cotton reel mounts here in the UK.
They have bolts either end with rubber in-between.
Nope
Agree 100%! I'd also be concerned about cooling air flow for that motor, it has to be a hot one for sure.
I've installed many water makers. There are TWO aspects to the noise they generate. Hard contact energy transfer (mounts) and air evergy transfer. As to the mounts, the pump needs total isolation rubber bushing mounts. ZERO metal to metal contact, the second aspect done in the video is the sound dampening material. You would be better off using 4" SOUND-DOWN. It is not cheap, The build design of sound down is what makes it such a good isolator. By design it has a silver mylar surface face (thickness depending) with 2" of foam, then a lead/rubber center sheet. the middle layer is about 1/4" thick, then an other 2" of foam. It is heavy by design, requires FAST FOAM 74 and hanger pins for vertical and upside down mounting. Then entire bed box would need to be coated with different thicknesses as needed. The other option is to generate a sound down coated wood box inside and out around the pump.The box its self will also need to be isolated from hard mounting to the bed. That will drop the sound if done well by 20-50 %. If you have questions I'm a master marine tech with decades in the bizz and YES I'm in south florida.
Agree with this, you need to completely isolate the pump from the boat structure. Just like with air conditioners, you need to use an isolation mount.
and right now the air insulation is mostly pointless because the vibration through the mounting is basically causing the entire hull to act as a sounding board.
Excellent answer. I hope Bret takes your advise.
@@markhavlek30loo
No
I was wondering if putting it right under the bed was a good idea…..seems very loud
"boat projects with Brett" great video.... loved it! feel so accomplished
Yeah, I think Boat Work w/Brett would be SUPER!
Blogs by Brett
Boatwork with Brett is a hit with me. Good job.!!
By far one of the simplest and longest lasting changes you can make in almost any room is the lighting. Looks great!
Recommendation; Get a borescope camera and magnet attachment if you don't already have one. They are cheap and can save you hours trying to retrieve little metal parts that have disappeared into the nether regions of your boat.
Brett, we replaced all 20 led lights on our sailboat with led bulbs. Amps used per hour for all 20 lights changed from 20 to 2 amps! Every amp counts.
A knife that holds an edge like crazy is the Kershaw Leek. (Don't remember why all the knives have onion themed names.) It absolutely will not close on you. It has a torsion bar opening and can always be opened one handed in two different ways. Positively requires two hands to close. The instructions advise strongly to not try to open it with two hands, however. I learned that the hard way a few minutes after I bought it - The torsion bar acts as a surprise little spring and the tip buried itself in the palm of my free hand. Lifetime guarantee against anything including carelessness or stupidity. Perfect knife for me. I partly destroyed mine when I laid down a motorcycle.
Build a sound proof box and mount the pump in the box. Leave room for airflow. Have a hose feeding air in and out. Use a convoluted hose with bends and have chambers off the hose to muffle the sound.
Nice work Brett. After cruising for 14 years the number one tool I used was a heat gun. You have to get rid of that butane lighter for heat shrinking electrical connections. You will burn yourself or start a fire at some point with that lighter. Heat guns are quick and easy and much safer. Good luck!
I have only recently found you on you tube. I am binge watching as am sick at home and your vlog is so watchable. Welldone. I love the channel and you are both amazing. I would love to have your energy and commitment.From a Kiwi lad of 62 in Cambridge NZ
ProTip: when replacing wiring, use the old wire to pull the new wire in directly off the spool or coil... another nice trick is to also pull one or more string or twine to use for pull lines later in case you want/need to pull more wire through the same route... try to keep the strings parallel with the wire as you pull it in... you don't want it to wrap around the length of the wire for obvious reasons 😉anyway, nice job! keep up the good work! 😺
Brett - I like the 'genuine feel' you've brought to this episode. I approve of this effort!
Been gone a while.. Bret I will never get tired of watching boat work!! You guys are a great family an fun to watch!! Take care of your health... In the end it's your inner engine like your vessel that must be looked after an cared for... I wish you good health an love . Thanks for sharing your lives with us.... Fare winds an following sea's guy's ✌🏼💗😊❣️
Hi Donna!
Long flexible metal rod with magnet on the end to pick up lost metal objects down deep holes with limited access (like bilges), available at Harbor freight for less than 10 bucks! Voila, no more worrying about those lost or dropped screws. Have a nicer day and don't sweat the small stuff (and its all small stuff according to my grandfather).
So happy to see you putting the packets of stuff in containers. Reduces chances of cockroaches on board. You also need to remove the labels and glue from food cans👍👏
Hi noise control is sometines called vibration isolation. To achieve true isolation, any rubber has to compress 20% on it's own.
Ie before any bolts or screws are tightened. Most engine mounts are constructed with upper bolt that do not connect through the rubber to the hull.
Secondly the connecting pipes can transmit the
Vibration. The way to fix this is to make a loop with each pipe and each connecting wire.
And yes I was an acoustics engineer.
Hi, what you need is isolation rubbers. The bolt through the rubber still transmits the vibration to the wood that acts as a resonator. The isolation is separate bolts in a rubber compound. You should be able to get them through amazon or local mechanical supply dealer.
I think that you have three problems with the acoustics of the pump.
1) The pump is not rated as being for quiet operation. There is a noticeable difference between a normal pump and motor and a quiet version.
2) The pump sits on a thin timber board that acts like a sounding board to amplify the sound. It really ought to sit on a sold base that has a significant mass. I would normally use a concrete paving slab cut to shape and then glue that down onto the board with an interlayer of medium density foam (particle foam is quite useful as it is made up of different densities that attenuate different frequencies). The pump has to be fixed to the concrete and not through bolted to the base board.
3) AV dampers are not through bolted as the vibration transfers through the fixing bolt to the base. AV dampers are usually a block of rubber with bonded bolts top and bottom to secure to the pump and the base so that there is rubber between the solid fixings. On land the AV dampers can be just placed without bolting to the mas base but where there is motion they need to be bolted to both motor and mass base.
One acoustic enclosure that I have been particularly impressed with is one that is a full box shape made of rubber sheet with an interlayer of lead, the acoustic attenuation is remarkable. The rubber absorbs the higher frequencies and the lead damps the low frequencies. This unit is completely loose to allow the sheet to flex freely.
As a boater myself when it comes to sound deadening with little intrusion I have used Butyl car sound deadening material, It has Hex embossed aluminium backing for heat isolation and is Very soft & flexible for easy installation. Might be the go to for many issues for you. With the water maker maybe a sound isolation box around it taking in heat dissapation and never forget the surrounding hull structure will resonate from any sound with or without a deadening box!
Brett, you need to isolate the pump motor bolts from the boat mounting. That will help a little more but I don't think it will reduce it anymore 3 to 5db. Good Luck.
GO PRO 9 = 1720ma/h
GO PRO 10 = 4900ma/h
I'm a plumbing and heating engineer and CT1 spary is a must for me.
Removes all sorts of items including glues etc.
Normally used for removing CT1 silicone.
Oh and thanks for reading the comment's puts a smile on our faces.
👍👍
@@ExpeditionEvans , Heart attack pictures, fatty foods is animaIs cIogged arteries : ua-cam.com/video/15wgYsToORM/v-deo.html !!! ua-cam.com/video/pFPFnhfuLrE/v-deo.html Vegans don’t have this problem because that is the animals. Vegans don’t get clogged arteries, 4% cancer if you’re vegan. Meat based diet 51% death rate. That is extremely high for a frigging burger etc. Gorillas in the wild, have 1 percent cancer. And they never ever eat animals !!! Peer review science !!!!
UA-cam delicious vegan food. Time to change ✅❤️😉.
Always wipe down the surface with an alcohol wipe and let dry before using the pressure sensitive glues! Clean is king!
To cut down the water maker noise or anything like it. Rubber mount it (like an engine) cut up a cutting board, hockey puck ect. To make shims/block between the shaky motor and the surface it mounts to. Stop the harmonic of the wood or fiberglass. That’s what I would try anyway. Good luck.
Boat projects with Brett was a major hit. Please consider it for a regular feature.
There is a debonder for super glue but nail polish remover works. Also the foam will soften the sound but not stop it, your motor is in a drum. Use the same kind of stuff that is in your engine room. You guys are doing a great job well done.
Susan & Tony here, Heads up the human ear can only distinguish in 4 decibel increments. Some day find a quieter pump motor
Nice job on all the projects. If you decide to change the lights in other locations, you might want to go for a warmer temperature they often will call them warm white but that really doesn't tell you anything. Look for a kelvin temp of 2700 or 3000. The higher kelvin no. the bluer it is, lower - warmer. They will still be very bright if they are LEDs but also compare foot candles if there is more than one option - higher = brighter.
Remember that 3dB less is achieved by halving the noise level. So 2dB down is not that bad for using rubber mountings, a thin layer of dampening material on the lids and some random placed pieces on the walls.
I’ve done a few fresh water pumps and had a lot of success. Lightly restrained SOFT mounts with no metal to metal contact is the key. I’ve even used only two holes and made a third point of suspension because the pump’s center of gravity was not in the mounting flange and caused heavy twisting on the rubber mounts. Also isolate the hoses from the hull, bulkheads or anything that can act as a sounding board. Soft foam rubber spacers or rubber suspension strips can help. My one concern however is heat. That pump is quite powerful and much of its energy is putting out heat in that small enclosed space. On a hot day and a long running time I’d be concerned. For the time being I’d like to a little monitoring thermometer just to be sure.
As suspension point is very clever.
When we have installed our water pump on our boat we worked out that a lot of the noise actually came through the pipes. We covered as much of the inlet and outflow pipes with closed sell insulating pipe. This cut out a huge amount of noise.
Yes. Boat projects with Brett is a winning approach.
Hell ya love the music during the rewiring in the bathroom. Another great video, love following you guys journey so far.
Soundproofing is not easy. The material you use are good for tuning a room reverberation but not for soundproofing. The first thing is to make sure you do not transmit vibration to the structure. You need to try different rubber mounts to find the hardness that fit best with the motor vibration characteristics. Then you need to enclose as much as possible the space to prevent air from leaking out. Any opening will let noise getting out. It becomes an issue if you need to dissipate heat from the motor. Then there is the possibility to design a maze so the sound waves lose energy while going through it. This is what the silencer does on a vehicle exhaust. The next thing to do is to use heavy materials on all the walls to absorb the energy. Dynamat is a well known brand used in car audio. You can double than with Greenglue.
Hi,
"Superglue" is typical CA glue and can be removed with Aceton.
Cheers
Marc
Sound mitigation: You padded out the lid, you need to make a little sound box for the pump integrating hi!e for tubes.
You need rubber gasket on both sides of the wood shelf. From top to bottom: nut, washer, water maker, rubber gasket, wood shelf, rubber gasket, washer, bolt head. Ideally, a rubber bushing in the hole of the wood support the bolt would pass through. This would isolate all rigid mounting from the super structure of the boat. Depending on if the motor heats up during use, insulate around the motor.
Great Job !!!!! Don’t let anyone say different!
5000k light is for work areas like an office or kitchen. Looking at that light spectrum prior to sleeping will make it harder to get to sleep. Nice vid!
For soundproofing, what you want is a product called Dynamat - it's foamed butyl rubber with an adhesive backing, used in the auto stereo industry to dampen sound. Since it is butyl, it should also be pretty moisture/mold resistant.
Hi, magnet on an extendable rod, one of those tools that appears to be a gimmick until you use it to retrieve a screw for the first time 🤓.
Suggestion. Plastic containers and jars are a great idea. Get some oxygen scavenger and/or like Damp Rid packets to add to your reorganizing
You need a more solid of a base plate for the motor ( Looks like it is wood now ) to avoid the vibrations.. If it is hollow under the motor it will send an echo sound through out the rest of the void. Also you might need to use rubber bushings at the mount points for the bolts for the mounting plate / board to the hull.
The bolt from the motor base to the wooden panel is transferring the vibration. You need a mount similar to an aircraft military heavy radio isolation mount, If you know any aircraft mechanics/j The wood panels will also work like a guitar and amplify the sound, maybe some draft seal tape around the edges of the panels to insulate them too.
That was a excellent video. Well done.
I like Boat work with Brett! Wonder if there is noise coming from the control unit, too. Hopefully you’ve got that all sorted. Happy sailing!!
Hello Brett, I think the pump inlet may be getting some air.
An other possibility is the pump is too high from the inlet water level and this creates vapor bubbles in the inlet line.
That can make it very noisy. And will damage your pump with the cavitation.
Brett - Like the video - and nice change to the same stuff that normally gets ignored.
A heavy rubber mat under the mattress and proper isolation bolts. Hope you feel better soon.
If the cool white led lights are too bright , try warm white led . They are more natural like incandescent bulb .
Setting here, the high pressure pump sounds like it is cavitating and the pump would normally be jumping around. If so, the inlet pressure of the pump is too low. The systems I'm aware of have a low pressure pump that pressurizes the suction side of the high pressure pump. This also can happen if suction hoses are too small or filters are almost clogged. Cavitation can quickly destroy the pump valves and bearings.
I'm more of a 4000k kind of guy - but good quality LEDs can be transformational. I took out two crappy halogen bulbs from my stove hood and swapped in 5W LEDs and my goodness it is like night and day for stove top illumination. And to think we used to marvel at how good halogen bulbs were...
Personal opinion - I don't believe you'll ever quieten the motor as long as it is mounted on a bulkhead or shell of the boat. I do believe if you reposition it to a floor or keel timber, with proper rubber isolation mounts, properly installed, you will decrease the noise transmission tremendously. As stated, that is personal opinion. Good video.
enjoyed watching you fix stuff.,.......I'm like that !! you do good work !! thanks for sharing Mate!
Like the tagline "Boatwork w/Brett", but would also like to see Jade's boatwork as an occasional segment too... on the cyanocrylate problem, try WD40 or olive oil if you're sensitive to the kerosene/petroleum distillate in WD40. Both are slow acting; so grasp some paper towels or wear gloves to keep you from messing up all the boat with oily fingerprints... wash off after 5-10 minutes. Will likely take two widely spaced (time) treatments to show good results. All you're doing is encouraging your skin to shed the bonded glue with a layer of skin. You could also go swimming and stay in until your fingers "prune up". Your noise problem is only half done.. the other panels and hull are all vibrating directly or indirectly. Hope your energy levels return !
Brett, I am glad you are feeling better and this was a good video. Packed with projects and progress. Let me suggest, just like on a diesel or gas generator, build a sound-deadening box around your electric motor for the water maker. The volume of area youare trying to deaden the sound in is too large for the foam to be effecive. Bring back Jade, she is 75% of what I tune in for :-)
Good job Brett, let the light shine down. noticeably brighter.
I have been doing so many boat projects that I intend to film, but just don't have the time. Just because of your video about the watermaker, I am filming that one. Seems the hardest part is finding a place for it. I had a gopro 5 (disappeared) and replaced it with a 10. So far the battery last longer than the 5, but I am amazed by the stabilization. Hopefully I can find the time to finish my watermaker (the same one you have without the panel), but getting new trim tabs and the bottom done is crucial. I hope to run into you two someplace in the Bahamas. I plan on getting there by mid May. A little late, but it took almost a year to find a good boat on a budget. Look out for 46 foot MV Lady Bug in your travels. Love your stuff. I have passed to a few others I know.
For better sound deadening use those heavy rubber gym mats/tiles. For your cupboard change the hinges to flush mounted ones.
Brett, magnetic screw bits for the drill, and telescoping small magnet on a stick ( actual tool) helps find dropped screws, nuts, bolts in small spaces under engins ....was fun hanging with just you
Get a mechanic's telescopic magnet/grabber for dropped screws. It's probably not as frequent a problem on a boat, but as you saw, it does happen.
Mass is important and often overlooked when it comes to sound proofing. If you could add a heavy rubber matt over the top or under of the bead boards it would probably help (ventilation permitting). Also making the board the pump is mounted on as solid and heavy as possible would probably help reduce noise. The more immovable it is the more the rubber feet will work to absorb the vibration. Also adding weight to the pump will change the frequency to maybe something less intrusive.
Bought a Pup-Plank just now because you recommended it.
I liked you video this week. Great work!
Lots of detail work for you. Missed Jade!
i use vhb tape to attach all the windows on my own sailboat. we occasionally bury the rails with the lower parts of the windows underwater for extended periods and the boat is, "berthed" in my front yard in hawaii where it rains nearly every day. Andy at boatworks today used the same stuff on a beautiful sailboat he was restoring.
never a drop a water. wonderful stuff.
"Boat Project With Brett" sound good to me. Nice work on the lights and the rewire of the pump motor. As mentioned below, you need isolate mounts for the motor. Try Lord Corporation, a division of Parker. They make a massive line of isolation mounts and bushings. Take care, stay well, don't cut anymore fingers and have a great week ahead.
Cool white is 3.5-4K. Daylight is 5k. Blue light starts around 5.5k and up. Warm (soft) white (yellowish) is 2.3-3k. Those look like 6k bulbs.
It's all the sleep irregularity and deprivation, especially keeping watch at night, but never recouping it during the day. Its the same range of health issues that ever rotating shift workers experience with the addition of sea sickness.
You need to add desicates and oxygen removers to your plastic food containers. It keeps your stored dry flours and dry goods fresh. Also, advise storing flour in fridge to keep bugs from hatching in the heat.
This may be a year late but using Dynamat xtrem sound mats should do help reduce the transfer of sound and silence the room. The product is normally used for automobiles to eliminate road noise. hope it helps.
Thank you for the love. I owned and operated an audio/video company for nearly a decade. Built man caves, home theaters, and distributed audio for homeowners to greatly reduce or improve sound quality. Another product that might help is Green Glue. It's a compound used between hard surfaces when building structures. Don't know if it will help in your current build?
Again, thanks for your channel.
Keep it growing!
Loved your lone blog.. Well done and man you get a lot done after being soo sick..You are an inspiration!!
Superglue dissolve in water (slowley), basicly the fluids from your hands will help remove the superglue.
Just ... work hard ;) hope this helps
U may find that without that edging weight on the shelf will cause it to sag or warp the edging should stop that the grain of the wood would be opposite
Noise arrestor should be heavy and thick, like corrugated lead, thick plank of wood or similar. Corrugated lead vibrates converting noise in heat. Probably lead is no longer allowed but the principle is still on.
Nice reality check. Boating life is not all fun, but a lot of normal maintenance, best done continuously not in spurts.
Boatwork with Bret is a Gr8 idea. Love watching you guys x
Like the lights, i would do the whole boat for power savings. Sound dead-ing. I would look at automotive style. Usually foil coated less chance for mold.
The answer to your pump noise problem maybe an aircraft you have flown, the Q400. That interation of the Dash 8 has ANVS (Active Noise and Vibration Suppression). Call some A&P friends from your previous life and ask them how Dehavilland implemented ANVS, then adapt it to the boat. 😁
I hope you are feeling better!
Keep up the great videos and above all STAY SAFE! ⛵❤️😁
Heh. It's probably cheaper to buy a quieter water maker which I'm sure they would have done if they had the money.
Respect your crew duty day. If you're up at 4am finishing up boat jobs, you're burning the candle at both ends. Get your sleep sorted out. Thanks for being honest and open about what's up.
Thank you Brett ,another fine program.
Great job! Great video without all the sappy, cutesy crap.
I like your boat job videos and I think you form a great team. There will be plenty of time for sailing, and I like the way you are getting ready for your longer sailing trips. I like following your story, from the beginning with the broken yacht which you have fixed. Keep up the great work and the videos.
You and Jade are both so special and beautiful everything you do is admirable. Highest Blessings
Boat projects w/ Brett is a great idea. I really enjoyed the video!!!
Hi Brett,
I know the water maker is necessary but that level sound is awfully loud. Have you considered constructing a box with those rubber panels on the inside to block the sound? If those panels don't help much go to the Internet looking for information on audio sound dampening for cars. That stuff is not cheap but it does a good job. Good luck.
For the water pump, you guys should fabricate a box with 1/4 inch rubber box as sound deadening. Ali baba has great deals on stuff like that. I just hope there is enough room and ventilation for that type of setup.
It should knock down the loudness considerably....
I have a goPro 10, but it replaced my 5, so I can't speak for the life of the 10 vs 9, but I bought the extended life batteries with the 10 and I can say a single battery will last 4+ hours of skiing (with camera recording about 1/2 the time, but on the whole time) where as the gopro 5 batteries lasted about 2hrs each under similar conditions. Also thanks for the link to the Pup Plank, been looking for something exactly like that for my dog.
PRAYERS you feel better
I would recommend sound insulation for cars with a base system I recommend Silent Coat Vibrodamping and Silent Coat Noise Isolator 10 on top
I think the majority of the noise is the vibration through the fiberglass that is under the bunk. I bet if you use some of the self adhesive mass vinyl sound mat on the fiberglass around the pump it will make a huge difference in both sound and vibration, you might cut 5 or more decibels.
There are a couple of tools for grabbing screws that have fallen in difficult areas. I was going to suggest the ones with a magnet or just a magnet on a string, but screws on a boat aren't always magnetic.
For the sake of lazy days, and your eyes, I'd suggest adding a warm 3200ish string of rope light, or something, under the cabinets so you can have a little light with out going blind. Great video as always!
I agree. I personally can't stand cool lights in a living area. Makes me feel like walking into an office or a hospital. A total mood killer especially on a sailboat.
Also ensure there some red lights suitable for maintaining night vision whilst on passage. Check, that labels, instruments, etc, are legible under red light too!
@@Tomm9y Totally agree night vision is a must on long voyages.
They make those controlled by an app on your phone. They are cheap ($15) and you can change color whenever you want.
@@redbovine They do, they also make them controlled by a basic remote, no app needed.
Hi Brett and Jade i have just binge watched every episode from the start and as you said in one of your videos my face hurts from all the smiles. Thanks for sharing your adventure i have had a blast watching see you in the next Video. Much love to you both from here in Sheffield UK
😊
OK, I've gotta admit- I loved "Boat Maintenance wif Brett" cuz, it felt like something I would do. While replacing the halogen's with LED's in the master, you couldn't just fix the one broken one (now they don't look the same) so, you replaced them in a pair. Then, you noticed that the one over the door was yellow- so, you replaced it as well. Then, in the bathroom- you noted how terrible they looked in there.... I feel your pain, Brett! I could've (actually WOULD've) stayed up all night, swaped halogen's for LEDs and would've told myself that when on passage I was 'saving' electricity for much more important things. Really, I would've. Welcome to my world.... Hahaha- loved it!
Oh yeah every time I hit that light switch I just think of the power savings 🤣
Oh, and congrats for going over 100K subs. I somehow got unsubscribed so I will have to go back and see what I missed. I have been a sub since episode 1. Doing great guys, keep it going.
Superglue remover = acetone = Hairspray or fingernail polish remover. Keep up the good work!
Feel better Brett!
A couple of valves and a short piece of pipe and you can back flow, or flush your water inlet.
Hi, For sound proofing I've heard that MLV (mass loaded vinyl) is very efficient. Never tried it though.