Paul who runs Laser Land Australia is a fantastic person I have known for years and helped him get into laser stuff. Paul is really smart and has fantastic service! I also got one of those laser modules in for video/testing for my future video. I am not doing my video sponsored though and I payed to play lol. Also, I still have the MG driver if you want.
Yeah, he is a great guy and as happy for me to to just say it as it is in the review. They are real nice modules. Yeah, I do that most times, but this hobby is expensive. Erk, I forgot about that, my inbox got slammed, I will go check later today...
Les, hello. Another great video. I am a big fan, though my wife is not as once again I had to go spend some money on eBay! Joking aside I had to have one of these once I saw your video and since I commented on a N2 laser video today I thought I would poke in my two-cents here too. I do love the laser, though I would have preferred TTL over analog for a bench laser myself. I do have to say I even see it as little green in person, i.e. when safely viewing the beam spot at a distance. Not being negative about the laser itself, it is definitely yellowish, and it will sit high on my favorites list now. As you indicated for the price it is very, very well built... but not quite that perfect yellow yet that I think we all want to see. Regardless of yellow/green human eye nuances, keep up the great content!
Real TTL would be nice, but it is also nice to be able to continuously vary the output as well. Depends on your need I suppose. My suspicion is that maybe TTL is too hard on them. The Driver board has it, it is just disabled. Yeah, it is a weird color. To me it looks quite Yellow, but others see it is Chartruse, or lime green. For the price point though, really nice. If you want to see a absolutely Yellow Laser, see this one (looks green on camera, but unmistakably yellow in real life, and tested with the Spectrometer): ua-cam.com/video/77WVaUkEDC4/v-deo.html Cheers! Les
Wow more yellow! Will also do a vid on the lasance 575s once mine arrives in the mail and I will swap out its driver with one of mine cause I've heard that lasance sets them too high and the pumps burn out fast...
Cool! Yeah, I had considered using my own driver to characterise it, but hadn't heard they were driving them too hard though. Do you have a source or data for this info?
@@LesLaboratory I've also heard(yes he told me on discord among other people) that these diodes are very sensitive. My drivers are also though very clean so a match made in heaven, for the current I am gonna set mine to (1.2A) my driver's ripple is about 8mv p-p.
I absolutely love your Videos! 😍😍😍 I have now watched most of them and can't wait until you make a new one :D Keep up the great work your doing, you are amazing! 😊😊
Hi Les, indeed I was wondering about the maximum modulation frequency, for example if you could use it for data transmission. The other thing is the "analog" character of the modulation. The output is probably not very linear with the voltage, or is it?
I reckon you can probably get data over it, that would make an interesting project, serial over DPSS ;-) It would be interesting to characterise the signal in vs signal out with a DPSS, again, another project ;-)
I snagged one of these after watching your video. In it s peculiar color… not something I would call yellow but also not really green. My best description would be a “jolly rancher lime green” Cool little laser though.
As a newbie, can you do a video on how to make the power supplies that you use to power these devices? Or, what specs would I look for if you recommend buying a supply? And finally, what exactly is the 'canned smoke' that you use?
Hi, the PSU I was using as a Riden RD6006, there is a review at eevblog here: ua-cam.com/video/0qjLx_HsKUQ/v-deo.html A good 12 Regulated power supply should be ok. The canned smoke is a product called "Magican", but be careful it, it precipitates a thin film of oil all over everything.
Hi, I am an very serious laser enthusiast and have been for about 60 years. I love your shows and I am wandering if you either build or use Ruby Lasers in your life? I am gradually gathering all the parts needed for a Ruby Laser that I am designing. I would like to ask you if you ever help anyone in designing one and I actually require assistance in calculating the size and amount of capacitors I require for the flash tubes and then the high frequency charging power supply for charging and then firing the flash lamps.
Yes, I have. It is currently in storage, but it will be dragged out at some point and restored, (still waiting on replacement parts) as well as a few YAG lasers :-) For the capacitors, there are some handy calculators at Sam's Laser FAQ for just this job. You will also need a suitable inductor so as not to exceed the tube ratings as well. See this page: www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersps.htm#spsdls1 If you look for Doug Little's PFN Calculations Spreadsheet in that page, you can more or less plug in things like rod type, dopant concentration etc, and it will give you reasonable values for Capacitance, Inductance etc.
@@LesLaboratory I realise this is not a recent video, but thanks for linking my spreadsheet :p I just stumbled across these videos today. It's about time I dug my ruby and other laser parts out from storage and did something with them again...
Yeah, yellow is weird, but I suppose no more weird than all the shades of green. I have a few Yellow Lasers: Melles Griot & Laserland Yellow @ ~559-561nm that looks Yellow, with a int of green, but definitely a very nice color. The closest named color is "Chartreuse Yellow" Lascence @ 574nm nice bright yellow He-Ne @ 594nm looks almost Orange to me, amber perhaps? All of the above look green on camera because of the way Bayer filters are constructed on CCD cameras. A lot of Laser colors look out of whack because of this, the He-Ne for example in the video looks nothing like it does in real life. Speaking of Bayer filters, there is an upcoming video on stripping these...
@@LesLaboratory nice, cant wait for that vid. some guys actually did this to their canon dslr a few years back, scratching off the bayer filter and microlenses with a pencil with quite good results. petapixel.com/2013/08/04/scratching-the-color-filter-array-layer-off-a-dslr-sensor-for-sharper-bw-photos/
@@gamerpaddy That's what I tried first, works ok for the Picam, but once you get to the edge of the image area, it promptly kills it. Seemingly either Row/Column drivers or amplifiers live there, and the moment you poke at them...game over. There are other ways to attack it, but it is quite tough stuff!
@@LesLaboratory some sensors have covered up pixels on the edge for calibration purposes, i guess they are using the same technic as for the bayer filter. once you scrape off the calibration area it goes wild and becomes unuseable. pretty hard at this scale to keep them intact.
Paul who runs Laser Land Australia is a fantastic person I have known for years and helped him get into laser stuff. Paul is really smart and has fantastic service! I also got one of those laser modules in for video/testing for my future video. I am not doing my video sponsored though and I payed to play lol.
Also, I still have the MG driver if you want.
Yeah, he is a great guy and as happy for me to to just say it as it is in the review. They are real nice modules.
Yeah, I do that most times, but this hobby is expensive.
Erk, I forgot about that, my inbox got slammed, I will go check later today...
Les I really enjoy your videos - greatly appreciate you sharing all the fun stuff you do!
Great thanks!
Your videos are interesting!Love them all
Les, hello. Another great video. I am a big fan, though my wife is not as once again I had to go spend some money on eBay! Joking aside I had to have one of these once I saw your video and since I commented on a N2 laser video today I thought I would poke in my two-cents here too. I do love the laser, though I would have preferred TTL over analog for a bench laser myself. I do have to say I even see it as little green in person, i.e. when safely viewing the beam spot at a distance. Not being negative about the laser itself, it is definitely yellowish, and it will sit high on my favorites list now. As you indicated for the price it is very, very well built... but not quite that perfect yellow yet that I think we all want to see. Regardless of yellow/green human eye nuances, keep up the great content!
Real TTL would be nice, but it is also nice to be able to continuously vary the output as well. Depends on your need I suppose. My suspicion is that maybe TTL is too hard on them. The Driver board has it, it is just disabled.
Yeah, it is a weird color. To me it looks quite Yellow, but others see it is Chartruse, or lime green. For the price point though, really nice.
If you want to see a absolutely Yellow Laser, see this one (looks green on camera, but unmistakably yellow in real life, and tested with the Spectrometer): ua-cam.com/video/77WVaUkEDC4/v-deo.html
Cheers!
Les
Wow more yellow! Will also do a vid on the lasance 575s once mine arrives in the mail and I will swap out its driver with one of mine cause I've heard that lasance sets them too high and the pumps burn out fast...
Cool! Yeah, I had considered using my own driver to characterise it, but hadn't heard they were driving them too hard though. Do you have a source or data for this info?
i told him that on discord, all three of my modules burnt out, also if you need to replace the pump diode, they are 940nm cmount diodes
@@suhailab3634 Thanks for the info, good to know!
@@LesLaboratory I've also heard(yes he told me on discord among other people) that these diodes are very sensitive. My drivers are also though very clean so a match made in heaven, for the current I am gonna set mine to (1.2A) my driver's ripple is about 8mv p-p.
I absolutely love your Videos! 😍😍😍
I have now watched most of them and can't wait until you make a new one :D
Keep up the great work your doing, you are amazing! 😊😊
Thank you so much!
Hi Les, indeed I was wondering about the maximum modulation frequency, for example if you could use it for data transmission. The other thing is the "analog" character of the modulation. The output is probably not very linear with the voltage, or is it?
I reckon you can probably get data over it, that would make an interesting project, serial over DPSS ;-)
It would be interesting to characterise the signal in vs signal out with a DPSS, again, another project ;-)
I snagged one of these after watching your video. In it s peculiar color… not something I would call yellow but also not really green. My best description would be a “jolly rancher lime green”
Cool little laser though.
It's werid right? But for sure, a very nice and useful wavelength.
What is free software I can download for spectrometry?🤔
This: m.ua-cam.com/video/SCp9T8NKfnM/v-deo.html
As a newbie, can you do a video on how to make the power supplies that you use to power these devices? Or, what specs would I look for if you recommend buying a supply? And finally, what exactly is the 'canned smoke' that you use?
Hi, the PSU I was using as a Riden RD6006, there is a review at eevblog here: ua-cam.com/video/0qjLx_HsKUQ/v-deo.html
A good 12 Regulated power supply should be ok.
The canned smoke is a product called "Magican", but be careful it, it precipitates a thin film of oil all over everything.
Hi, I am an very serious laser enthusiast and have been for about 60 years. I love your shows and I am wandering if you either build or use Ruby Lasers in your life? I am gradually gathering all the parts needed for a Ruby Laser that I am designing. I would like to ask you if you ever help anyone in designing one and I actually require assistance in calculating the size and amount of capacitors I require for the flash tubes and then the high frequency charging power supply for charging and then firing the flash lamps.
Yes, I have. It is currently in storage, but it will be dragged out at some point and restored, (still waiting on replacement parts) as well as a few YAG lasers :-)
For the capacitors, there are some handy calculators at Sam's Laser FAQ for just this job. You will also need a suitable inductor so as not to exceed the tube ratings as well.
See this page: www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersps.htm#spsdls1
If you look for Doug Little's PFN Calculations Spreadsheet in that page, you can more or less plug in things like rod type, dopant concentration etc, and it will give you reasonable values for Capacitance, Inductance etc.
@@LesLaboratory I realise this is not a recent video, but thanks for linking my spreadsheet :p I just stumbled across these videos today. It's about time I dug my ruby and other laser parts out from storage and did something with them again...
Great looking module, lets see what it can do !....cheers.
for me 589nm is more yellow than 574nm.
I wouldn't call 589nm orange either, 575nm is more like canary yellow
Yeah, yellow is weird, but I suppose no more weird than all the shades of green. I have a few Yellow Lasers:
Melles Griot & Laserland Yellow @ ~559-561nm that looks Yellow, with a int of green, but definitely a very nice color. The closest named color is "Chartreuse Yellow"
Lascence @ 574nm nice bright yellow
He-Ne @ 594nm looks almost Orange to me, amber perhaps?
All of the above look green on camera because of the way Bayer filters are constructed on CCD cameras. A lot of Laser colors look out of whack because of this, the He-Ne for example in the video looks nothing like it does in real life. Speaking of Bayer filters, there is an upcoming video on stripping these...
@@LesLaboratory nice, cant wait for that vid.
some guys actually did this to their canon dslr a few years back, scratching off the bayer filter and microlenses with a pencil with quite good results. petapixel.com/2013/08/04/scratching-the-color-filter-array-layer-off-a-dslr-sensor-for-sharper-bw-photos/
@@gamerpaddy That's what I tried first, works ok for the Picam, but once you get to the edge of the image area, it promptly kills it. Seemingly either Row/Column drivers or amplifiers live there, and the moment you poke at them...game over. There are other ways to attack it, but it is quite tough stuff!
@@LesLaboratory some sensors have covered up pixels on the edge for calibration purposes, i guess they are using the same technic as for the bayer filter. once you scrape off the calibration area it goes wild and becomes unuseable. pretty hard at this scale to keep them intact.
hello, can i please buy that lasence module off you, all three of mine broke, i can pay $200 for it
Unfortunately no, I still have plans for it, but drop Paul an email (see details in the description)He may well be able to source one for you.