Mr. Pete, you are an absolute American Gem. The gift that keeps on giving. Thank you for another wonderful video. I just came across a Phase II rotary table I am going to refurb and this will help a lot.
I was a tool and cutter grinder for 31 years before I got disabled, wish I could have been able to continue to be in it like you are able in your retirement. Enjoy your videos a lot . Was in a machine and fabricating shop . I sharpened and made cutters for customers
Thanks for saving this from the scrapyard, looks like it is cleaning up nicely. If you need to replace that stubborn machine key, the DIN standard is 6885. I recently had to get a couple on german-made shredder I was working on.
That's a nice rotary table; you can't go wrong with German machinery and tooling. Very nice of Charlie to donate it. I just picked up a 10" Palmgen rotary; needs a little cleaning too. Look forward to using it. I miss Monkey Wards. Looks like I'll be missing Sears soon as well.
My family was a big Monkey Wards family, the Wards catalog was always around & I was the only kid that was always looking thru the tool section instead of collecting baseball cards, I collected tools with my allowance (dad was a aircraft mechanic, his brother a tool & die maker, & grandpa a farmer & mill wright. The genes run strong in my family, so it's no surprise I love tools) Mom would let me hang out in the tool dept,while she did her shopping, & the clerks got to know me as the tool kid ( back at a time when it was safe to be alone & wander a big dept store ) I loved the tool dept even more than the candy dept. 50+ years of collecting tools later I've got a lot of stuff. Found a guy on eBay (back in Joliet,IL) that has a lot of NOS PowrKraft tools. GOOD MEMORIES, thanks for reminding me of them,,
@@mrpete222 so both companies existed simultaneously independent of each other? Presumably, sears bought wards out sometime after both of your experiences...unless this man has a good head start on you, which i doubt. Thanks for all you do, sir.
Lyle, thanks for doing this series. I can certainly tell that you were (are) a teacher. I love your explanations and detail; never too much detail. Thank you, sir!
I just got done with my first de rusting project. I have some misc tools that i soaked in white vinegar for 24 hours. I am very pleased with the results. For larger items i will try the electrolysis method. I will save the used vinegar and use it this summer to spray on weeds and blackberry bushes to kill them. Thank you teacher again for the information you share.
The table top may be unsightly, as you mentioned, it is perfectly serviceable: If you want to make it look good, you can put a machined plate (with or without slots) over the original tabletop. A sacrificial aluminum plate is also an option.
mrpete222 - May I respectfully suggest an additional project to the current project, based on Mr. Helton's suggestion? Could not imagine a more enjoyable way to spend part of my Saturday morning, than watching one (or more) of your first rate videos! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, wisdom, experience and wonderful teaching skills with us. Roy. - Buffalo, NY
Mr. Pete, you reminded me of my shop teacher when you pointed out the injuries to the top surface and remarked about brutal people utilizing it in the past. My classmates were all smart and wanted to do well, but as I'm sure you've seen ad nauseum mistakes happen and people are imperfect. Whenever he heard the sound of an end mill hitting the table of our trusty old Bridgeport he'd yell out "Please don't mill my vise!" It was a playful sort of tone. No need to be mean since we already knew we screwed up and felt bad. Same sort of thing happened when we forgot to unlock the motor after changing out end mills. It would buzz for a second before the student quickly shut it off and my teacher would yell out "Oh no, don't break my mill!" I really enjoyed learning from him.
I remember hearing those sounds clear across the shop. The sound od the chuck jaws strikeing the lathe compound-unmistakable. At caterpillar, when a cnc amchine crashed--there would be heardd hooting hollering & applause clear across the factory floor
Details are good, even if we never work on a rotary table like that some of the details of how it is fastened together will surely show up on something else we run into someday. Thanks!
I think the A and E stand for "aus" and "engagieren" for off and engage. I honestly forgot about Monkey Wards, being from a small town, we had them and Sears. I still remember getting our clothes from them and always looked forward to the catalogs. Our downtown is a shell of what it used to be, a lot of fond memories though. Also, if people find your explanations too long winded, they can always forward, I enjoy the small talk and explanations.
Farm Show magazine did a comparison of various penetrating oil products that included Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and one or two others I hadn't heard of and a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. They placed tightened bolts into a salt solution for a time and then removed them and allowed them to air out for a time. Then applied each different product and measured the torque required to break loose this rusty bolts. The acetone/ATF outperformed the commercial products by a significant margin.
I used some Lemi Shine one time using electrolysis. Not thinking i tried using distilled water, duh, no electrolyte for electrolysis! I had no washing soda, so I added about a teaspoon of Lemi Shine, and it worked well. I don't like the acids methods, got to be sure to neutralize the acid. I'm sure your wife has some kind of container that will work for the base. LOLOL Some people would have used a ball peen to tap that vice. Can't wait to see how you get the broken bolt out. See you in part two.
Stand corrected - the oath says---I will use treatment to help the sick according to my ability and judgment, but never with a view to injury and wrong-doing
P B Blaster is some good stuff. We all know nothing works 100% of the time , I have had better luck with a penetrant called Free All. I do have and use both but reach for the Free All the most. One guy claimed years ago that it " Frees everything but convicts". I'm not sure about that but it is pretty good. we all watch these videos to learn from a great source of knowledge , just trying to add a little to the class. thanks Mr Pete for the lessons.
Never to much information, can't wait for the rest of the series, looks like that citric acid did the deed, as a truck driver I have picked up many loads of citric acid to deliver to Coca Cola, one of there secret ingredients.
I use citric acid (Zitronensäure in German) if I need to use to de-rust things. I soak them like you did. It is necessary to use warm or hot water since this mixture has next to no effect when cold. Once I had to de-rust bolt heads, and I've placed them in a steel lid of a jam glass, and I've put this lid onto an electric stove at home. I've placed the bolts on their heads, so I could just immerse the heads, since I was worried the threads would be damaged - this stuff eats thru rust and even some metal! I've put it on the lowest setting, and let it sit for 30 minutes, so it would stay warm. It doesn't get very hot, you can almost touch the stove surface. After that, I use some PH-level neutral hand soap to both rinse the part I've washed with a disused tooth brush and clean my hands. A paper towel helped dry the bolts, since some black stuff seems to come off in the process, and I didn't want this on my kitchen towels. Those were SAE bolts off of a 1980s Chrysler that hold on the rear drum brake wheel cylinder to the mounting plate - These are not available in Europe. I've called around. Although last week I found a pack I once bought on vacation in a Canadian Tire - if found earlier, I could have saved my time and just use those.
it's 'brakes loose faster'. kinda makes sense if you spray it on your brakes :D I like to shoot some PB before heating the parts. once I see smoke I stop. for delicate stuff and chrome parts I like to blast it with a heat gun instead of a torch, to be on the safe side of not destroying the coating or changing the properties of the metal. small set screws can be heated up with a soldering iron
G'day Mr Pete, you mentioned about possibly not using the slots on the base of the rotary as you have another alignment method. Certainly locating centre with a tapered centred or 40mm centre will get your table aligned to the spindle. The two keys will ensure you are clocked square to the table so that you do not need to indicate your table in each time. We have done the same thing on the base of our vice for the same reason
Lite Roadie this is a rotary table, so you want zero degrees to be square to the travel of your mill table. If you want a half circle milled on the end, you want your start and end to coincide to zero and 180 respectively. The two tags lock into the t slots of the mill table. Then the t slots on the rotary are parallel to the mill slots without time consuming indicating each time you add the rotary to the mill. If you have similar tags on your mill vice this could again lock into the rotary slots, so the vice is parallel to the mill slots and horizontal traverse
Lite Roadie t slots are for work holding, but are also aligned to zero. Simple jobs such as cutting gears are not critical provided you make each step the same, once you want to align to other features on your part, you either need to indicate and set your start point, but the rotary table is marked on the casting so hard to reset to a new zero. Picture is worth a thousand words sorry if I'm not helping clarify
The stains on the working ends of the plain irons are not stains. Hardened steel will etch at a different rate, or in a different way than non-hardened steel. It appears those irons are differentially hardened (meaning the cutting portion is hardened and the rest is not). I learned this from knife making, if you etch a differentially hardened knife blade in acid, you will see the line at which the hardened portion of the blade begins, even in an acid as weak as coffee or vinegar! Just an observation! great video Mr.pete! keep em coming!
That Citric Acid did as well or better than any commercial de-rustler that I have used. Would you give the proportion formula again and any specifics of the citric acid itself please. Great video as always. Cheers
Had a thought about the broken set screw you were having trouble with. IF (!) the screw end can be cleaned and the hole is large enough for accessibility, it may be possible to TIG weld onto the screw a build up of metal outward, like a pillar, thus, provide something to grab on to for removal. I did this a few weeks ago to a damaged set screw holding a fan blade.
I have just overhauled an old seized Chinese 350mm rotary table. and assuming they are basically the constructed along the same lines., that broken screw that you talked of at 27:50 is a locating pin fixing the shaft longitudinally. removed the above grub screw and then the "bolt" should screw out or it may simply be a pin. the cam shaft then will be able to be removed.
Now Mr. Pete, you're not going to let a missing center shaft stop this project. That's a ten minute job for you. I thought I could help you out with the mystery bolt/lock/pin. I have a 32cm Walter, but after herniating myself dragging it out from under the Bridgeport, it appears to be newer. "Ein und Aus" are apparently locked by a tapered-end pin about 6mm in diameter slipped into a hole--at least now, if not originally. I definitely want to see this to conclusion. It'd be neat to mill out the breaks in the T-slots, braze in new iron, then mill back to perfection.
Brazing on a large complex piece of cast iron like that would warp it bad enough to require that it be finished all over to guarantee accuracy. A better way is to mill out the table in the damaged areas to the depth of the narrow top part of the t-slot and epoxy and bolt in a piece of steel which is finished to match the rest of the table. Or better yet just mount a pallet on it. Mike (o\!/o)
I was reluctant to buy my first 1/2 in socket set at MW in 1966 because the ratchet had a rubber handle and I was concerned it would not last. After using the ratchet hundreds of times, my PowerCraft ratchet is sitting at the bottom or an old tool box in the garage looking exactly like it did when I purchased it, save for wear and tear.
The "red plastic cup" is a Solo Cup product, not Dixie. And they're an Illinois based company. I don't know about their current situation, but not that long ago I know they were manufacturing in the state. Several of my friends when we were at University of Illinois worked at the plant in Urbana, helping them get through their education. I wonder if any of your students worked for Solo keeping their manufacturing running? And no, you're not going into too much detail! Thanks!
Hi great video as usual ! I asked around at the museum and non of us have rotary tables like that so we can't help you with that broken bit . If you want take a look at our shop I have a tour on my channel . Sorry we couldn't help you this time .
Hi if it's similar to my rotary then that bolt is a stop for the excentric, to allow you to drop into engagement without binding,once the grub is out there should be no load on the bolt. Make a little drill jig out of a bit of bar end to drill 2 peg holes in the end of the shaft then use the jig with pins to screw out the bolt?
This is obviously a superior way he's using as apposed to buffing it with a grinder, i say this with mostly fabshop/ welding experience & am thankful to learn these new methods of preservation.
i use diesel fuel for removing rusted things. it's cheaper than the can stuff to use. i still have things with the wards sticker on them.. including. even jackets. i never worn. with wards tags still on. our wards is now wall mart.
Normal way to remove a tight key like that is, grab it tightly with locking pliers and then tap the locking pliers so as to pull the key out. Failing that, heat up the key with tig torch or small tip oxy. The key will expand and then contract, after that you can usualy pul it out by hand with locking pliers. The advantage of heat up the key is its disposable vs risk warping a shaft with heat. Cheers
did they smash the corners on the center of the table so they can get nuts in without having to drag them from the periphery? i cannot imagine how a crash could produce that kind of destruction.
Hey, if you want to sit there with a wire brush and penetration oil for hours at a time to remove rust, go right ahead. I'm not partial to any particular method either.
Lyle, In need of your knowledge. I recently purchases a floor drill Guardian Power yeah I know 😨. I didn't look it over as well as originally thought the rack for the table adjustment appears to be to short. I can fix the problem by replacing either the rack or the ring rack holder. Do you have a source for machine parts? Or could I hire you to make me a rack ring? I've searched the web with no luck. More than likely I'm inputting the wrong search parameters. In the purchase I obtained a x y t slot table that has a bent x axis screw and both x axis end supports are broken (no manudactorer). Any help would be greatly appreciated, and yes I do understand that you cannot reply to all comments. Keep doing what your doing it is very appreciated by the young and old alike.
Mexican cokes are made with sugar in the formula instead of high fructose corn syrup. I like them better than our regular cokes like I like the sugar formula Dr Pepper over the regular Dr Pepper.
Isn't it funny how nicknames become "universal"? I grew up in western NY state (600 miles from your area), yet, we too called it "Monkey Wards" (even back in the 1950's). As I'm assuming that there were no TV, radio, or newspaper ads which would disparage their advertisers by using that moniker, it probably traveled by word-of-mouth. Ah-h-h! Another of life's little mysteries.
I know this is an old video, but you made a comment about the "e" and "a" not making any sense. Which, in english it does not. However, in german it makes perfect sense. "A" = auf = off "E" = einrasten = engage/lock Figured i would return the favor of all you have taught me about machining over your many many videos :]
Thank you for the information. If my mother was still living, she could’ve told me that. She spoke German, but did not teach me anything about the language
@@mrpete222 i wanted to be different than everyone taking spanish in high school, plus with German i could talk/understand all the amish around here. May i ask advice? I have a 16x40 lathe i picked up and got it all cleaned up and ready to use. Only problem is the 5hp 3 phase motor. Which at home, we do not have 3 phase power and the cost is much too high to justify getting. I know there are several options for 3 phase power generation. Do you have any suggestions as to what would be the most reliable way to get 3 phase, between a VFD, rotary phase, or a digital phase shifter? Also, after watching your Kurt vise restoration videos, i want to make my own AngLock style vise. I seem to have a hard time finding any cast iron bar stock that i could use to make the base and nut with. Any information i could get from seasoned machining veterans would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for all the questions, you are the shop teacher i never had growing up in our school district. I am a maintenance technician by trade, and have a deep love for hobby machining. I hope to slowly build my shop and teach and pass it along to my 2 year old son one day. Again, thank you for all the videos and effort you put in. Even the obscure videos you dont think anyone cares about, i watch them all!
Hello MrPete222 thank you for all of your very helpful and well-done videos. I have a question I'm hoping you can answer. I cleaned rust off of the surface of a rotary table with some WD-40 and a scotch-brite pad. I didn't realize at the time that the scotch-brite pad had alumina bonded to it and it scratched the surface of the rotary table. So my question is this: Do you know of any way to remove the scratches and restore the surface finish of the table?
@@mrpete222 Thanks for the reply. (BTW you're not just a good machinist but a nice person...this comes across in every video of yours). Anyway that leads me to another question if you don't mind. What would be the best technique to use on this 6 inch table; e.g., should I wrap a piece of sandpaper around a 123 block and use that as a sanding block, or should I tape a sheet of sandpaper down onto a flat surface such as a pane of glass or a surface plate and do it that way?
There in-lies the problems with your deciding on a rust removal, you said you were neutral. You must be a lower pH or acid, neutral or base is not good for rust removal. :-)
Mr. Pete, Walter seems to be still in the business. Here is a link to a newer version of your mashine table. www.walter-praezision.de/specifications-181.html may i suggest to get into contact to get a repair manual? However, keep up the good work, greetings from germany.
Mr. Pete, you are an absolute American Gem. The gift that keeps on giving. Thank you for another wonderful video. I just came across a Phase II rotary table I am going to refurb and this will help a lot.
👍👍👍👍👍
I was a tool and cutter grinder for 31 years before I got disabled, wish I could have been able to continue to be in it like you are able in your retirement. Enjoy your videos a lot . Was in a machine and fabricating shop . I sharpened and made cutters for customers
Thank you for watching, I’m glad you like my videos. Sorry to hear about your disability
I like all of the details you go into when you talk about your project. Please don't stop.
Thanks for saving this from the scrapyard, looks like it is cleaning up nicely. If you need to replace that stubborn machine key, the DIN standard is 6885. I recently had to get a couple on german-made shredder I was working on.
Thank you so very much. For "ALL" of the detail you have given. o7 Salute...
your videos are magnetic... revolutionary... concentrated... fabulous -- and powerful!
That's a nice rotary table; you can't go wrong with German machinery and tooling. Very nice of Charlie to donate it.
I just picked up a 10" Palmgen rotary; needs a little cleaning too. Look forward to using it.
I miss Monkey Wards. Looks like I'll be missing Sears soon as well.
Enjoy your video's. Like to learn different things and by you describing everything really helps.
My family was a big Monkey Wards family, the Wards catalog was always around & I was the only kid that was always looking thru the tool section instead of collecting baseball cards, I collected tools with my allowance (dad was a aircraft mechanic, his brother a tool & die maker, & grandpa a farmer & mill wright. The genes run strong in my family, so it's no surprise I love tools) Mom would let me hang out in the tool dept,while she did her shopping, & the clerks got to know me as the tool kid ( back at a time when it was safe to be alone & wander a big dept store ) I loved the tool dept even more than the candy dept. 50+ years of collecting tools later I've got a lot of stuff. Found a guy on eBay (back in Joliet,IL) that has a lot of NOS PowrKraft tools. GOOD MEMORIES, thanks for reminding me of them,,
Neat--I was always looking at the sears catalog--tool section
@@mrpete222 so both companies existed simultaneously independent of each other? Presumably, sears bought wards out sometime after both of your experiences...unless this man has a good head start on you, which i doubt.
Thanks for all you do, sir.
Been waiting for this since you asked for advice on removal of the crank. Can't wait for the next one. My favorite channel.
Lyle, thanks for doing this series. I can certainly tell that you were (are) a teacher. I love your explanations and detail; never too much detail. Thank you, sir!
very enjoyable to watch... Thanks for sharing sir...
Revisiting this series, and enjoying it once again - Thank you.
I just got done with my first de rusting project. I have some misc tools that i soaked in white vinegar for 24 hours. I am very pleased with the results. For larger items i will try the electrolysis method. I will save the used vinegar and use it this summer to spray on weeds and blackberry bushes to kill them. Thank you teacher again for the information you share.
The table top may be unsightly, as you mentioned, it is perfectly serviceable: If you want to make it look good, you can put a machined plate (with or without slots) over the original tabletop. A sacrificial aluminum plate is also an option.
Yes--and I do have plenty of 1/2" alum tooling plate
mrpete222 - May I respectfully suggest an additional project to the current project, based on Mr. Helton's suggestion?
Could not imagine a more enjoyable way to spend part of my Saturday morning, than watching one (or more) of your first rate videos!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, wisdom, experience and wonderful teaching skills with us.
Roy. - Buffalo, NY
Thanks for watching
Great series, it's going to be a challenge for sure, but an enjoyable one. Thanks, Mr. Pete.
Mr. Pete, you reminded me of my shop teacher when you pointed out the injuries to the top surface and remarked about brutal people utilizing it in the past. My classmates were all smart and wanted to do well, but as I'm sure you've seen ad nauseum mistakes happen and people are imperfect. Whenever he heard the sound of an end mill hitting the table of our trusty old Bridgeport he'd yell out "Please don't mill my vise!" It was a playful sort of tone. No need to be mean since we already knew we screwed up and felt bad. Same sort of thing happened when we forgot to unlock the motor after changing out end mills. It would buzz for a second before the student quickly shut it off and my teacher would yell out "Oh no, don't break my mill!" I really enjoyed learning from him.
I remember hearing those sounds clear across the shop. The sound od the chuck jaws strikeing the lathe compound-unmistakable. At caterpillar, when a cnc amchine crashed--there would be heardd hooting hollering & applause clear across the factory floor
Glad to see the citric acid trick used. I've been looking for an effective, non-toxic way to remove rust and that seems like it does a good job.
Details are good, even if we never work on a rotary table like that some of the details of how it is fastened together will surely show up on something else we run into someday. Thanks!
Very well built table most German machines are the best quality. The pinch slot to lock the thread is a brilliant idea.
I think the A and E stand for "aus" and "engagieren" for off and engage. I honestly forgot about Monkey Wards, being from a small town, we had them and Sears. I still remember getting our clothes from them and always looked forward to the catalogs. Our downtown is a shell of what it used to be, a lot of fond memories though. Also, if people find your explanations too long winded, they can always forward, I enjoy the small talk and explanations.
Interesting to see how that table works. Hope the mystery (mysteries) are solved about center shaft and broken bolt. Greg
I wish I could find stuff like this great job
Farm Show magazine did a comparison of various penetrating oil products that included Kroil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster and one or two others I hadn't heard of and a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. They placed tightened bolts into a salt solution for a time and then removed them and allowed them to air out for a time. Then applied each different product and measured the torque required to break loose this rusty bolts. The acetone/ATF outperformed the commercial products by a significant margin.
Good to know. I think many of the products are HOPE IN A JAR.
I grew up with a Powr-Kraft radial arm saw & lathe in the garage. Now the both sit in my shop and still see some use on occasion.
I used some Lemi Shine one time using electrolysis. Not thinking i tried using distilled water, duh, no electrolyte for electrolysis! I had no washing soda, so I added about a teaspoon of Lemi Shine, and it worked well. I don't like the acids methods, got to be sure to neutralize the acid. I'm sure your wife has some kind of container that will work for the base. LOLOL Some people would have used a ball peen to tap that vice. Can't wait to see how you get the broken bolt out. See you in part two.
Thanks for doing this series.
Replacing those breakouts would be an interesting project.
The quote is: "The hospital should do the patient no harm", Florence Nightingale Crimeam war.
Nice video
Stand corrected - the oath says---I will use treatment to help the sick according to my ability and judgment, but never with a view to injury and wrong-doing
Stuart York. what are you talking about? you dont know what the hippocratic oath is?
DrewLSsix
Sir.
After 40 yrs in Ophthalmology I beg to suggest I do indeed know what the oath is.
Try Google or read Mr. Pete's reply to my comment.
Liked your comment on derusting by molasses. It seems to me that people with the most time left are in the biggest hurry.
P B Blaster is some good stuff. We all know nothing works 100% of the time , I have had better luck with a penetrant called Free All. I do have and use both but reach for the Free All the most. One guy claimed years ago that it " Frees everything but convicts". I'm not sure about that but it is pretty good. we all watch these videos to learn from a great source of knowledge , just trying to add a little to the class. thanks Mr Pete for the lessons.
Never heard of it--I will buy some!
Never to much information, can't wait for the rest of the series, looks like that citric acid did the deed, as a truck driver I have picked up many loads of citric acid to deliver to Coca Cola, one of there secret ingredients.
That locking system, it’s using a flexure for locking. Flexures are the best way of locking, much better than set screws. More precise and elegant.
I use citric acid (Zitronensäure in German) if I need to use to de-rust things. I soak them like you did. It is necessary to use warm or hot water since this mixture has next to no effect when cold. Once I had to de-rust bolt heads, and I've placed them in a steel lid of a jam glass, and I've put this lid onto an electric stove at home. I've placed the bolts on their heads, so I could just immerse the heads, since I was worried the threads would be damaged - this stuff eats thru rust and even some metal! I've put it on the lowest setting, and let it sit for 30 minutes, so it would stay warm. It doesn't get very hot, you can almost touch the stove surface. After that, I use some PH-level neutral hand soap to both rinse the part I've washed with a disused tooth brush and clean my hands. A paper towel helped dry the bolts, since some black stuff seems to come off in the process, and I didn't want this on my kitchen towels. Those were SAE bolts off of a 1980s Chrysler that hold on the rear drum brake wheel cylinder to the mounting plate - These are not available in Europe. I've called around. Although last week I found a pack I once bought on vacation in a Canadian Tire - if found earlier, I could have saved my time and just use those.
it's 'brakes loose faster'. kinda makes sense if you spray it on your brakes :D I like to shoot some PB before heating the parts. once I see smoke I stop. for delicate stuff and chrome parts I like to blast it with a heat gun instead of a torch, to be on the safe side of not destroying the coating or changing the properties of the metal. small set screws can be heated up with a soldering iron
Thanks for watching.
G'day Mr Pete, you mentioned about possibly not using the slots on the base of the rotary as you have another alignment method. Certainly locating centre with a tapered centred or 40mm centre will get your table aligned to the spindle. The two keys will ensure you are clocked square to the table so that you do not need to indicate your table in each time. We have done the same thing on the base of our vice for the same reason
Square to the table? A circle? Please explain I don't understand.
Lite Roadie this is a rotary table, so you want zero degrees to be square to the travel of your mill table. If you want a half circle milled on the end, you want your start and end to coincide to zero and 180 respectively. The two tags lock into the t slots of the mill table. Then the t slots on the rotary are parallel to the mill slots without time consuming indicating each time you add the rotary to the mill. If you have similar tags on your mill vice this could again lock into the rotary slots, so the vice is parallel to the mill slots and horizontal traverse
Thanks, but aren't the t-slots on the rotary table just for work holding? And couldn't you zero put the dial where ever you want?
Lite Roadie t slots are for work holding, but are also aligned to zero. Simple jobs such as cutting gears are not critical provided you make each step the same, once you want to align to other features on your part, you either need to indicate and set your start point, but the rotary table is marked on the casting so hard to reset to a new zero. Picture is worth a thousand words sorry if I'm not helping clarify
Thanks for your time! I'm watching Mr. Pete's older video on centering a rotary table right now! Tips #201
The stains on the working ends of the plain irons are not stains. Hardened steel will etch at a different rate, or in a different way than non-hardened steel. It appears those irons are differentially hardened (meaning the cutting portion is hardened and the rest is not). I learned this from knife making, if you etch a differentially hardened knife blade in acid, you will see the line at which the hardened portion of the blade begins, even in an acid as weak as coffee or vinegar! Just an observation! great video Mr.pete! keep em coming!
Yes--I thought I put a screen note in the video in that regard??
mrpete222 shucks I must have missed that! either way I find it Interesting!
Nice video! That locking mechanism for the eccentric is called a "split cotter".
It'd be great to see how the Loctite Naval Jelly rust remover stacks up in your tests if you have a chance to try it.
good project and idea of photo dissamembly...
10" is about 254mm, if the tabletop was made to 250mm,(a reasonably round number) then, obviously, it measures just under ten inches.
love the smell of PB Blaster!
I'm going to order some citric acid, looks like it worked good.
Lyle,
Montgomery Ward used the Powr-Kraft label.
That Citric Acid did as well or better than any commercial de-rustler that I have used. Would you give the proportion formula again and any specifics of the citric acid itself please. Great video as always. Cheers
Had a thought about the broken set screw you were having trouble with. IF (!) the screw end can be cleaned and the hole is large enough for accessibility, it may be possible to TIG weld onto the screw a build up of metal outward, like a pillar, thus, provide something to grab on to for removal. I did this a few weeks ago to a damaged set screw holding a fan blade.
I have just overhauled an old seized Chinese 350mm rotary table. and assuming they are basically the constructed along the same lines., that broken screw that you talked of at 27:50 is a locating pin fixing the shaft longitudinally. removed the above grub screw and then the "bolt" should screw out or it may simply be a pin.
the cam shaft then will be able to be removed.
Now Mr. Pete, you're not going to let a missing center shaft stop this project. That's a ten minute job for you.
I thought I could help you out with the mystery bolt/lock/pin. I have a 32cm Walter, but after herniating myself dragging it out from under the Bridgeport, it appears to be newer. "Ein und Aus" are apparently locked by a tapered-end pin about 6mm in diameter slipped into a hole--at least now, if not originally.
I definitely want to see this to conclusion. It'd be neat to mill out the breaks in the T-slots, braze in new iron, then mill back to perfection.
A Job for Keith Fenner!
Brazing on a large complex piece of cast iron like that would warp it bad enough to require that it be finished all over to guarantee accuracy. A better way is to mill out the table in the damaged areas to the depth of the narrow top part of the t-slot and epoxy and bolt in a piece of steel which is finished to match the rest of the table. Or better yet just mount a pallet on it.
Mike (o\!/o)
I was reluctant to buy my first 1/2 in socket set at MW in 1966 because the ratchet had a rubber handle and I was concerned it would not last. After using the ratchet hundreds of times, my PowerCraft ratchet is sitting at the bottom or an old tool box in the garage looking exactly like it did when I purchased it, save for wear and tear.
looking forward to this series mrpete. I think the letters E & A are in and out ( Ein und Aus) in German. regards from the UK
Great videos mrpete222
The "red plastic cup" is a Solo Cup product, not Dixie. And they're an Illinois based company. I don't know about their current situation, but not that long ago I know they were manufacturing in the state. Several of my friends when we were at University of Illinois worked at the plant in Urbana, helping them get through their education. I wonder if any of your students worked for Solo keeping their manufacturing running? And no, you're not going into too much detail! Thanks!
Hi great video as usual ! I asked around at the museum and non of us have rotary tables like that so we can't help you with that broken bit . If you want take a look at our shop I have a tour on my channel . Sorry we couldn't help you this time .
THANK YOU...for sharing.
The detail isn't too much and is good therapy for me.
thanks for you
another great video
The black staining on the plane blades is iron II oxide I believe.
Montgomery Ward actually isn't completely out of business. I received a mail order catalog from them just the other day.
It's not the same company, the name was an asset that was sold off in the bankruptcy.
Same thing as Sharper Image and Hostess.
Καλημέρα Πολύ ωραίο βίντεο
Hi if it's similar to my rotary then that bolt is a stop for the excentric, to allow you to drop into engagement without binding,once the grub is out there should be no load on the bolt. Make a little drill jig out of a bit of bar end to drill 2 peg holes in the end of the shaft then use the jig with pins to screw out the bolt?
That table top was a perfect job for the wire wheel!
This is obviously a superior way he's using as apposed to buffing it with a grinder, i say this with mostly fabshop/ welding experience & am thankful to learn these new methods of preservation.
i would guess the 6 bolts removed from the t-slots was to remove the ring gear. My guess is it is pinned on, and stuck from years of sitting
i use diesel fuel for removing rusted things. it's cheaper than the can stuff to use. i still have things with the wards sticker on them.. including. even jackets. i never worn. with wards tags still on. our wards is now wall mart.
Table would have looked pristine except for the rust, if someone would have bolted on an aluminum sub plate. That's good toolroom practice.
I am intrigued about how this table is put together.
Normal way to remove a tight key like that is, grab it tightly with locking pliers and then tap the locking pliers so as to pull the key out.
Failing that, heat up the key with tig torch or small tip oxy. The key will expand and then contract, after that you can usualy pul it out by hand with locking pliers. The advantage of heat up the key is its disposable vs risk warping a shaft with heat.
Cheers
E stand probably for EIN (On) and A for AUS (Off)
I have some large industrial grinders with zerks on it and they are oil not grease. One never knows. They are Imperial.
Too much detail? No sir, never too much detail.
I second that!
+WindersRanger - I concur.
That's right, It's the only hope we have, please don't hold back anything.
did they smash the corners on the center of the table so they can get nuts in without having to drag them from the periphery? i cannot imagine how a crash could produce that kind of destruction.
Hey, if you want to sit there with a wire brush and penetration oil for hours at a time to remove rust, go right ahead. I'm not partial to any particular method either.
Lyle,
In need of your knowledge. I recently purchases a floor drill Guardian Power yeah I know 😨. I didn't look it over as well as originally thought the rack for the table adjustment appears to be to short. I can fix the problem by replacing either the rack or the ring rack holder. Do you have a source for machine parts? Or could I hire you to make me a rack ring? I've searched the web with no luck. More than likely I'm inputting the wrong search parameters. In the purchase I obtained a x y t slot table that has a bent x axis screw and both x axis end supports are broken (no manudactorer). Any help would be greatly appreciated, and yes I do understand that you cannot reply to all comments. Keep doing what your doing it is very appreciated by the young and old alike.
I drank a Mexican coke today. It was pretty good. I wish I had a normal one to compare it to though
Mexican cokes are made with sugar in the formula instead of high fructose corn syrup. I like them better than our regular cokes like I like the sugar formula Dr Pepper over the regular Dr Pepper.
Power Kraft was Montgomery Ward. I think I have one just like the one you have.
Montgomery wards sold the powr Kraft brand. I believe they were actually manufactured for wards by Walter. What a coincidence
Isn't it funny how nicknames become "universal"? I grew up in western NY state (600 miles from your area), yet, we too called it "Monkey Wards" (even back in the 1950's). As I'm assuming that there were no TV, radio, or newspaper ads which would disparage their advertisers by using that moniker, it probably traveled by word-of-mouth. Ah-h-h! Another of life's little mysteries.
No Lyle, your quote was pretty muchcorrect, you attributed it to the wrong person.
I'm looking forward to the following parts of the series.
GREAT VIDEO !! LIME CONCENTRATE BETTER FLAT SURFACE A PIECE OF PAPER ,SOAKED . KEEP ON TRUCKIN :-)
23:57 .... are YOU reading MY MIND!??! i find myself asking the same question .... a lot!
"The E is for engage and the A is for disengage" - Tubalcain 2017 LOL
Thanks
I know this is an old video, but you made a comment about the "e" and "a" not making any sense. Which, in english it does not. However, in german it makes perfect sense.
"A" = auf = off
"E" = einrasten = engage/lock
Figured i would return the favor of all you have taught me about machining over your many many videos :]
Thank you for the information. If my mother was still living, she could’ve told me that. She spoke German, but did not teach me anything about the language
@@mrpete222 i wanted to be different than everyone taking spanish in high school, plus with German i could talk/understand all the amish around here.
May i ask advice? I have a 16x40 lathe i picked up and got it all cleaned up and ready to use. Only problem is the 5hp 3 phase motor. Which at home, we do not have 3 phase power and the cost is much too high to justify getting. I know there are several options for 3 phase power generation. Do you have any suggestions as to what would be the most reliable way to get 3 phase, between a VFD, rotary phase, or a digital phase shifter?
Also, after watching your Kurt vise restoration videos, i want to make my own AngLock style vise. I seem to have a hard time finding any cast iron bar stock that i could use to make the base and nut with. Any information i could get from seasoned machining veterans would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry for all the questions, you are the shop teacher i never had growing up in our school district. I am a maintenance technician by trade, and have a deep love for hobby machining. I hope to slowly build my shop and teach and pass it along to my 2 year old son one day. Again, thank you for all the videos and effort you put in. Even the obscure videos you dont think anyone cares about, i watch them all!
Hello MrPete222 thank you for all of your very helpful and well-done videos. I have a question I'm hoping you can answer. I cleaned rust off of the surface of a rotary table with some WD-40 and a scotch-brite pad. I didn't realize at the time that the scotch-brite pad had alumina bonded to it and it scratched the surface of the rotary table. So my question is this: Do you know of any way to remove the scratches and restore the surface finish of the table?
Number 600 wet or dry sandpaper
@@mrpete222 Thanks for the reply. (BTW you're not just a good machinist but a nice person...this comes across in every video of yours). Anyway that leads me to another question if you don't mind. What would be the best technique to use on this 6 inch table; e.g., should I wrap a piece of sandpaper around a 123 block and use that as a sanding block, or should I tape a sheet of sandpaper down onto a flat surface such as a pane of glass or a surface plate and do it that way?
Power Kraft? Montgomery Wards?
Molasses in January very funny.
mongomery ward used powr-craft if my memory serves me correct!
There in-lies the problems with your deciding on a rust removal, you said you were neutral. You must be a lower pH or acid, neutral or base is not good for rust removal. :-)
The person who destroyed this beautiful piece of equipment's top like that should be locked up and the keys fed to the sharks.
Yes
A shame that such a nice piece of German iron was mistreated in such a way. That must of cost a lot when it was new.
what year is this rotary table from?
should the metal parts be degreased prior to the application of Rust Remover?
sorry I should have waited for the end of the video>
good work
cheers
mr. Pete's I can hear my grandpa saying slow as molasses maybe that's where the term came from maybe there's actually two meanings
Mr. P.
With things of German origin, Stefan Gotteswinter is the youtuber to contact.
Eli D.
yes--we were in touch
No I don't know what a plan iron is Pete
Montgomery Wards sold power kraft!
Yes
Q: "Am I going into too much detail here?"
A: NO, not too much detail... the devil is in the details... please continue...
Mr. Pete, Walter seems to be still in the business. Here is a link to a newer version of your mashine table. www.walter-praezision.de/specifications-181.html may i suggest to get into contact to get a repair manual? However, keep up the good work, greetings from germany.
E = EIN (ON) A = AUS (OFF)
Also learned some German language.
Montgomery Wards.
Glad to see the start of the series. I knew it would be in good hands. Thanks for sharing.