Change rear shocks 2012 Kia Forte + spare tire upgrade
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- Kia Forte rear shock replacement
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For this job we will need a 17, 19, and 21mm sockets. Some wheel chocks, a jack, jackstands, ratchet, torque wrench, rubber mallet, and a few extensions.
Be sure to put down the wheel chocks before you get started. Remember to always break the torqe on the lugnuts, while the tire is still on the ground. you can use the cars lugwrench or a 21mm socket as shown.
Then you can jack the car up, slide the jack stand where you want it, sidenote always use a jackstand and never work under a verhicle held up by only a jack. This also lets you remove the jack so its out of the way.
Then we can finish taking off the lugnuts and remove the tire so we can gain access to the top strut bolt.
You can use a 17 mm socket and a breaker bar to loosen the first bolt, after that you can back it out with a ratchet until it is loose enough to remove by hand.
The top bolt is held in place by a nut that sits in a square box, welded to the frame. So there is no need to put a wrench on the back side.
Now, you will need to use a 19 mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the bottom bolt. The bolt has a unique oval shaped head that allows you to turn the nut without the entire bolt spinning.
If you watch closely you can see the head of the bolt move back and forth as torque is applied, but it stays in place.
After the nut and washer are removed the bolt can come out by hand, however if you are working on a newer vehicle you may need to push the strut upward with one hand, and remove the bolt with the other.
With both bolts remove the strut can be taken out and examined. This strut was sticking, becuase it had been leaking fluid, in addition you can see where was rubbing against the boot. These shocks have 90K on them.
As noted earlier, the these bolts have unique designs so coat them with anti-sieze or grease to prevent the threads from getting damaged during installation. If you damage one of the bolts and need to replace it, you will likely
have to wait a few days to finish the repair, because autozone probably won't have these on the shelf.
With the top bolt in place, the new strut can be installed, it takes some convincing, but when the strut aligns with the bolt holes, you can push the bolt through and thread it into the washer. But don't tighten it until you get
both sides of the strut installed.
To install the bottom bolt you will need to coat it with grease or anti-seize as well. The new strut will have to be forced to line up with the hole. You can do this by pushing it as shown here, or you can use a jack to compress it.
Its hard to get perfect alignment, but if you get it close enough for the bolt to hold the strut in place, a rubber mallet can be used to gently force the bolt through the strut.
Put the washer on first and then the nut.
After this, both the bottom and top of the strut can be tightened using a ratchet.
The torque specs for the Forte call out 40 ft lbs. for the Top bolt, and 80 ft. lbs. for the bottom. Always remember that when using a torque wrench you will need to tighten until you here "THIS SOUND".
In addition, do not jerk the torque wrench or move it quickly as this will give you a false indication of proper torque.
Now we can coat the lugnuts with anti-seize to prevent the problems for the next guy to take this wheel off. In addition the anti-seize will help to protect the aluminium rim from being damaged by the steel lugs.
You can go ahead and hand tighten the lug nuts with the tire off the ground, but be sure to jack the car back up, take the jack stand out.
And then let the jack all the way down so the tire is in contact with the ground. Then you can torque the Lug Nuts to 80 ft lbs. being sure to use the STAR pattern.
Then remove the wheel chocks, and be sure to put your torque wrench on "0" ft. lbs. before you put it away. Both struts were replaced and the process is the same for each side.
Thats all for today, be sure to leave a comment, hit the like button, and subscribe to see more videos like this one. - Навчання та стиль
Several years later and still helping. Thanks
Thanks for this video Sr. Perfect for a newbie like me. I followed your instructions step by step and replaced the shocks in an hour by myself. Saved me a few dollars in labor.
Thank you for releasing my spare tire back into the wild.
Thanks finally a forte video!
Yo, thats way easier than I thought it would be! Literally 2 bolts.
Thank you so much for this man!
Perfect explained... Thank you
Μπραβο ρε μαφια !!!I like that you know the torque value how you know that?excelent that you put the torque wrench back to zero!You deserve the excelent!
Great video
Thanks. I have a 2010 Kia Forte Koup and this is exactly what I needed. However mine is pretty rusted from the Northeast winters and salt. The top nut within the square box kept spinning. Had to hammer a chisel in there to stop the nut. ALSO FYI both bolts top and bottom call for torque between 72-87 ft/lbs. I just got my repair manual in.
that's why I have found, and all these videos don't give the torque and when you find one then the torque is wrong.
Any video of 2014 Kia Forte Sedan Coilovers installation?
Can you please reveal how to find the torque value for Kia ceed hatchback 1,6 2007 for the bolts attached to the shock absorbers installation mount parts????
What would you suggest doing if the top bolt is spinning?
How are the OE Monroe shocks holding up? I thought my Forte Hatchback had bad rear shocks but I replaced them with OE Monroe with the same result. Its causing scalloping on my rear tires :(
Great hand actor! Who was that guy? LOL
Would the rear shocks make a squeaking noise on a 2012 Kia Forte when they are bad because my rear of my 2012 Kia Forte makes a squeaking noise from the rear of the car when you hit bumps did the rear of your Kia Forte when you hit bumps making squeaking noise
What tire/rim size did u use as a spare?
Excellent video. I have to do this job and I was very worried about that long top bolt for the shock being seized into the car body. But at a torque of 40 ft lbs it should not be too hard to remove. Thanks for posting this
Dave Barajas, I know your reply is 2 years old. I am working on my forte and the top bolt and nut are seized. Impossible to remove the top bolt. Wondering if you had this problem when you replaced your shocks. Thank you.
Gary, I sure did have this problem. but it was only on the passenger side from what I recall. The problem is likely that the long upper bolt for the shock is not seized in it's hole, but instead it's actually seized inside the metal sleeve for the rubber bushing on the top end of the shock absorber. It was a massive pain but I only found one way to get it done and was successful. I took a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel attachment (several of them because they will break) to carefully cut off the outer steel layer of the shock along with the bushing which would then leave you with just the inner metal sleeve with some residual rubber left on it. Then I took a map gas torch (yellow tank) and heated that sleeve up until it was blazing hot and it finally let go! I prefer the expand and contract method when heating frozen/seized fasteners. That essentially consists of heating up the bolt/nut red hot, and then immediately spraying it down with a spray bottle of cold water and allowing a couple mins to let it cool. Repeating this process a couple times usually will flex the metal enough to break the seal of rust or corrosion allowing you to remove the stuck fastener. After about 3 heating attempts, I was finally able to remove the bolt by putting a socket on the bolt head, and a vise grip holding the now cooked metal sleeve, then twisted it to finally break the seal. Then the bolt came out. The hardest part of the job is taking the time to cut off those pieces of the shock absorber to expose the problem area. heat is your only friend in this case, considering you have the same problem I did. But I remember it well, and am willing to bet you have a similar issue. If there's any other info that might help you, I'm here. But hopefully this helps at least a bit
The bolt turns freely, but the nut is frozen to the bolt. The nut was just spinning inside the “cage” (can’t think of a better term) that is part of the underbody. I have cut off part of the cage, used penetrating oil and still not able to get it to crack. I can now hold the nut, and with breaker bar still not able to get it. So, yes heat will be my next option. But I feel like I will need to weld the nut to the frame since there will not be a physical way of preventing the nut from falling off. I am assuming that is why kia has this captive nut arrangement. Thanks for the info!
I could be wrong but from the way I remember, there wasn't an actual removable nut on the opposite end of the shock bolt. I remember it being more of a permanent maybe welded type threaded hole. I believe your bolt is just spinning around because it's frozen to that metal sleeve which keeps it from being able to back itself out. I would start chipping away at that shock to expose the sleeve so you can start heating it up to break it loose. A map gas torch burns hot enough to heat the metals up good enough. It hasn't failed me yet
Dave Barajas, yes it is a “permanent” nut. But if you grind off the welds of the cover you can get to the nut. For me, that nut was spinning with the bolt. Finally got it off with heat. Turns out the other side was even more difficult. But as of today both shocks are in and finished!
2:19 was about to do it until I saw that this square box is torn off one side - shock still held in place…is it worth doing or leave it to the pro?
How can I lift the car 1.5 inches?
How do I do this on a rusted car I can’t break the nut loose
Hey Creative Mechanic great vid, I like the anti-seize too. I have had so many seized lugs on my forte xD... A quick question for you, I am replacing my front struts (with quick struts) and also my rear shocks. Have you ever replaced the rear coil springs? My car is leaning to the left and I feel it in the steering currently, and am hoping that the new front struts correct the height of both sides. I couldn't find rear coil springs online very easily, and was told that they are rarely replaced. Have every replaced them? Thanks you for any help!!!
I have had a Forte koup for 10 years and just had the front struts and sway bars replaced. Mine was sagging to the left by about an Inch maybe a little bit more. When the front struts were replaced it reduced the sag to less than a half inch. Rear shocks and springs are still good. I was wondering if the sag was another issue so I looked at a lot of forte owner forums. Turns out almost everyone noticed a slight left sag but only noticable if you were closely looking for it. Doesn't affect the ride it's just there. Go figure.
Major Garlic Williams thanks for the response! I wish I had the koup haha. I have a manual transmission sedan. The ride height is looking a lot better now with the struts in. Maybe that slight sag you mentioned, but definitely not as much as before. Thanks for your feedback
Both my rear springs are broken! Kia dealer in Canada was $420 taxes in, that is only for the springs! Not installed!!! It is actually very easy to install new springs. I bought lowering springs from tdotperformance.ca. Set of 4 H&R springs was about $80 cheaper than only rears from Kia dealer. Replacing shocks while I am doing this. The captive nut is seized to the top bolt. Now the nut just spins in the “cage” holding the nut in place.
I can't find rear quick strut assembly videos or product anywhere on the internet, yet I see the spring for it next to the Shock you're installing in this video. Where the heck do you find the rear suspension??
Fortes don't have struts in the rear. The spring and shock are separate from each other. That's why you can't find a quick strut for the rear
My rear struts lasted about 175k miles . KIA is killing the game & imma buy another
My bolt keeps spinning, Any suggestions?
I'm in the same boat. Tried jambing it to no avail.
How is the spare doing? Did it grow and find a home?
Best we can tell it’s at Ferrari now
Will this work on a 2013 kia forte?
Yes it should
Cool thank you, I need to replace mine there leaking.
Shocks and struts are 2 different things
2011 kia soul has rear shock but I see nothing on how to replace rear strut in addition.
For 1st Gen (2010-2013) Kia Soul, North America, KYB 554387
Gas-A-Just Monotube are your only method to upgrade the ride comfort in the rear.
The front you have to get OEM struts from the Stealership ( so they last more than 10-20K than most of the Chinese quick struts).
My welded nut on the top bolt just spun, so now I have to cut that damn thing out.U can tell it's a kia engineering.
Such a dumb design, why weld a free floating nut inside that little bracket with no way to get a wrench on it if it comes loose, did you end up cutting yours?
@@Brianwearsglasses Had to rip off that bracket then cut the bolt off.