William, as you know by now, I really like your style in tying. This is something I'll have to try and see if it helps in my fishing. It's interesting and certainly can't hurt. Now all my flies will look like a long-haired old man that just got out of the shower and left his wet hair as is...!! *grins* Thanks for this, an interesting concept. -- Jeremy.
Your hackling technique would bode well for dry flies fished in slow water, similar to that which you will find on a spring creek. However, by removing the straight stiffness of the hackle by both curving and more importantly compressing it, you remove the “support” aspect of the hackle. They fly would need constant drying and dusting in order to stay on top in fast(er) or choppy water similar to many tailwaters and freestone streams. It would also cause the fly to float lower in the water, which in more cases does not conform with the way a natural floats in the film. A natural rides high with only a few points of contact. The reason we pay more than $100 for a silver or gold grade dry fly hackle is for the stiffness of the hackle, the consistency from feather to feather, the consistency of the color from feather to feather, and in some cases the consistent width of the hackle along the feather stem (meaning that there is a gradual change in the width of the feather along it’s length). I’ve seen this hackling technique used to imitate legs with a standard straight hackle wound through it about 25 years ago and it stayed around for a few years but eventually fell out of favor. I like your work and I especially like how deliberate you are when you tie. You don’t rush the process and pay superb attention to detail. Well done William.
You got any evidence/experience of this type of hackle tending to sink in disturbed water, or is it just something you’re inferring? I can’t see exactly why the support element should be dramatically reduced, perhaps you could expand on this? Not a criticism, nearly 50 years of tying and the mechanics of dry-fly flotation are still a bit of a mystery to me.
Congratulation and thank you very much for sharing, of course i subscribe to your channel, i hope for you a happy ending for 2017 and the best for 2018.
Hi William...I have a question about this technique. Do you normally choose a hackle size a little larger, smaller, or the same as if you used straight hackle?
Interesting and innovative idea. I must give it a try. Much appreciated.
2022. Excellent initiative, William.I'll try a couple of rows as emergers. This should work well on the lightweight Fulling Mill CZ nymph hook.
Super Fliegen.Danke!😊
Thanks William. Love this technique!
you are welcome :)
Interessante Idee! Sieht für den Fisch von unten sicher natürlicher aus!
mal etwas neues für die Fische Andreas ;)
A truly master class👌👏👍✌
William, as you know by now, I really like your style in tying. This is something I'll have to try and see if it helps in my fishing. It's interesting and certainly can't hurt. Now all my flies will look like a long-haired old man that just got out of the shower and left his wet hair as is...!! *grins* Thanks for this, an interesting concept. -- Jeremy.
but the long-haired old man catch fish ;)
Very interesting technique. Thank you for show us
you are welcome
Thanks for sharing. I will try it next spring
you are welcome :)
Your hackling technique would bode well for dry flies fished in slow water, similar to that which you will find on a spring creek. However, by removing the straight stiffness of the hackle by both curving and more importantly compressing it, you remove the “support” aspect of the hackle. They fly would need constant drying and dusting in order to stay on top in fast(er) or choppy water similar to many tailwaters and freestone streams. It would also cause the fly to float lower in the water, which in more cases does not conform with the way a natural floats in the film. A natural rides high with only a few points of contact. The reason we pay more than $100 for a silver or gold grade dry fly hackle is for the stiffness of the hackle, the consistency from feather to feather, the consistency of the color from feather to feather, and in some cases the consistent width of the hackle along the feather stem (meaning that there is a gradual change in the width of the feather along it’s length). I’ve seen this hackling technique used to imitate legs with a standard straight hackle wound through it about 25 years ago and it stayed around for a few years but eventually fell out of favor. I like your work and I especially like how deliberate you are when you tie. You don’t rush the process and pay superb attention to detail. Well done William.
You got any evidence/experience of this type of hackle tending to sink in disturbed water, or is it just something you’re inferring? I can’t see exactly why the support element should be dramatically reduced, perhaps you could expand on this? Not a criticism, nearly 50 years of tying and the mechanics of dry-fly flotation are still a bit of a mystery to me.
I like it, will give it a go, neat idea.
thank you Dennis
can anyone who gave this a try say if the flies work well?
Congratulation and thank you very much for sharing, of course i subscribe to your channel, i hope for you a happy ending for 2017 and the best for 2018.
Hi William...I have a question about this technique. Do you normally choose a hackle size a little larger, smaller, or the same as if you used straight hackle?
A little larger or the same. Not smaller.
looks good may give a more natural look on the water but only trial and error may tell
try to be smart ;)
Chris Harris e