I really appreciate you posting thiese videos and info with hours and straights facts and experiences, it really helps us new guys figure out what is going on
there must be a tube welded into the hollow section so the bolts have a solid going through support and not just the thin walls of the hollow sections. Washers are not advisable and this split washer does not stop screws from loosening.
Thanks for the insight on this with vibrating things loose. I never thought about that! When it comes time for me to get one, I'll be replacing all the nuts with nylon threaded nuts to reduce the risk of things coming undone. Cheers
How about when you are operating the machine, what if you could built a steel frame that you pickup and sit down on top of the machine. Then install several bolts on each side that attaches the cover to the steel frame on the machine. Like bolt on and it protects the machine and all the hoses from being damaged and your not having to weld anything just drill holes for the bolts to go through and attach the steel cover to the machine. This way you can put it on and take it off. Just an idea. Good video
you are kinda my one-stop channel- Not only am I getting ready for a VW-Toyo swap, but also pounding the 'net for info on what machines to buy for a fairly large cedar tree clearing project. So far, most disc mulchng mfg's recommend 100+ hp, and High Flow hydraulics to be able to get anything done. I've got the info on SK Diamond (south dakota) and QuickAttach out of Minnesota. I"ll be checking out your Loftness next. In my mind's eye, I've wondered how the heck you can even move around when cutting.. but I see now how you can juggle cut trees around to keep moving forward. I have a 3 section pasture we just inherited that'll need the 'rest of my life' attention.
Loftness is garbage. The hydraulic motor exploded on Halloween. Took over month and a half for them to fix. I was put out several hundred hours of cutting because of that delay. Diamond & Eco have solid reputations. Virnig just came out with one, priced way higher than anyone else. But, their warranty department has a horrible reputation. I'd probably go with Diamond if I did it again. You'll want 100hp minimum. Cat 299 is what I'd recommend. Buy new & get the warranties, because you'll break lots of stuff. If you aren't needing to mulch 100%, but would rather blaze thru the big stuff (pun intended) by cutting/piling/burning, then the disc is the way to go.
whoa..thanks for the reply! Yeah, trying to find a good used machine WITH 100+ hp and high flow is tough.. pretty limited to the current generation anyways. Then, there isn't much of a reduction in price from new! Might just have to bite the bullet and go that way. I see Diamond has added a belt drive, which is geared down for higher motor speeds/ higher torque. some sort of automatic 2 speed motor.. They claim a much faster spool up than even their direct drive system. So, if say, 90% of my cutting is straight through slashing... 100hp would be ok?@@doomsdaydiesel
@@roberttammerawitchey4652 i don't understand their belt drive, or their claims of higher efficiency. Converting energy from one form to another always loses some - you never gain more than you had. Sounds like snake oil. I think it's simply a way to run a mulcher on a smaller hp machine. No matter what you're cutting, you'll want the 100hp. Those machines have the cooling capacity you'll need. Overheating is the bigger problem than being underpowered when it comes to mulching.
I"ll take a stab at the 'efficiency part' It may be the machine as a whole. If the disc can recover to it's full inertia in their advertised 15 seconds, instead of 30-40.. one theoretically could blow down more trees/hour. I have a Diamond dealer down the road from me, I need to pick his brains on what he's been 'instructed' to say on this matter! Honestly, the standard direct drive would be adequate for me, and no doubt, cheaper to buy.
@@roberttammerawitchey4652 the Loftness 60" takes approx 27 seconds to spool up when everything's at temp, with the RT135 (132hp 50gpm). It definitely gets old waiting for it, but the music ear buds help. Can't be in a hurry doing this job or you'll break stuff/get hurt.
And if you want to modify the push bar just get some square tubeing that just fits over the other and wielder up 😊 and the adjuster holes take the bar off and wield up the holes grind them flat and redrill.
I appreciate you responding. My name is Ram. I started here in nashville five years ago. I run the G4 Loftness mulcher and it has 1000 hours of use. It really needs to be balanced, any suggestions? I enjoy the money the mulching creates but as you know ‘very expensive to run!’ My minimum charge per hour is $250 per hour. I usually been getting $350 per these last several jobs and it’s only bc of my 120 hp. I really enjoy installing roads and culverts. One thing I will highly recommend is check all your hoses and protect them. My 120 is in the shop bc two hoses being compromised.
I'm searching today for spring guards in the correct size. Such as these: amzn.to/3Nsbf3q and these amzn.to/43ORfgo My neighbor put these on his at the beginning and is still on his original hoses at 1000 hrs.
The exit chute were you bent it heat it up with a torch and straighten it and wield a large piece of 1 inch plate extended as far back as you can go and I would like to see you bend that 💪💪😊
@@stanhutchins4365 well the hyd motor exploded like a hand grenade at about 140hrs and they "fixed it", but I haven't been able to put another 20 hrs on it without it breaking another 2 times now. It's currently at the dealer for assessment.
I really appreciate you posting thiese videos and info with hours and straights facts and experiences, it really helps us new guys figure out what is going on
Could you weld a few studs on and put a plate on it so you could change it out whenever it gets bent
there must be a tube welded into the hollow section so the bolts have a solid going through support and not just the thin walls of the hollow sections. Washers are not advisable and this split washer does not stop screws from loosening.
Thanks for the insight on this with vibrating things loose. I never thought about that! When it comes time for me to get one, I'll be replacing all the nuts with nylon threaded nuts to reduce the risk of things coming undone.
Cheers
How about when you are operating the machine, what if you could built a steel frame that you pickup and sit down on top of the machine. Then install several bolts on each side that attaches the cover to the steel frame on the machine. Like bolt on and it protects the machine and all the hoses from being damaged and your not having to weld anything just drill holes for the bolts to go through and attach the steel cover to the machine. This way you can put it on and take it off. Just an idea. Good video
you are kinda my one-stop channel- Not only am I getting ready for a VW-Toyo swap, but also pounding the 'net for info on what machines to buy for a fairly large cedar tree clearing project.
So far, most disc mulchng mfg's recommend 100+ hp, and High Flow hydraulics to be able to get anything done.
I've got the info on SK Diamond (south dakota) and QuickAttach out of Minnesota. I"ll be checking out your Loftness next.
In my mind's eye, I've wondered how the heck you can even move around when cutting.. but I see now how you can juggle cut trees around to keep moving forward.
I have a 3 section pasture we just inherited that'll need the 'rest of my life' attention.
Loftness is garbage. The hydraulic motor exploded on Halloween. Took over month and a half for them to fix. I was put out several hundred hours of cutting because of that delay. Diamond & Eco have solid reputations. Virnig just came out with one, priced way higher than anyone else. But, their warranty department has a horrible reputation. I'd probably go with Diamond if I did it again. You'll want 100hp minimum. Cat 299 is what I'd recommend. Buy new & get the warranties, because you'll break lots of stuff. If you aren't needing to mulch 100%, but would rather blaze thru the big stuff (pun intended) by cutting/piling/burning, then the disc is the way to go.
whoa..thanks for the reply! Yeah, trying to find a good used machine WITH 100+ hp and high flow is tough.. pretty limited to the current generation anyways. Then, there isn't much of a reduction in price from new! Might just have to bite the bullet and go that way.
I see Diamond has added a belt drive, which is geared down for higher motor speeds/ higher torque. some sort of automatic 2 speed motor.. They claim a much faster spool up than even their direct drive system.
So, if say, 90% of my cutting is straight through slashing... 100hp would be ok?@@doomsdaydiesel
@@roberttammerawitchey4652 i don't understand their belt drive, or their claims of higher efficiency. Converting energy from one form to another always loses some - you never gain more than you had. Sounds like snake oil. I think it's simply a way to run a mulcher on a smaller hp machine.
No matter what you're cutting, you'll want the 100hp. Those machines have the cooling capacity you'll need. Overheating is the bigger problem than being underpowered when it comes to mulching.
I"ll take a stab at the 'efficiency part' It may be the machine as a whole. If the disc can recover to it's full inertia in their advertised 15 seconds, instead of 30-40.. one theoretically could blow down more trees/hour. I have a Diamond dealer down the road from me, I need to pick his brains on what he's been 'instructed' to say on this matter! Honestly, the standard direct drive would be adequate for me, and no doubt, cheaper to buy.
@@roberttammerawitchey4652 the Loftness 60" takes approx 27 seconds to spool up when everything's at temp, with the RT135 (132hp 50gpm). It definitely gets old waiting for it, but the music ear buds help. Can't be in a hurry doing this job or you'll break stuff/get hurt.
That brush gard should have nylon lined locking nuts. They should also have a tough specification. They look like they were over tightened.
And if you want to modify the push bar just get some square tubeing that just fits over the other and wielder up 😊 and the adjuster holes take the bar off and wield up the holes grind them flat and redrill.
I appreciate you responding. My name is Ram. I started here in nashville five years ago. I run the G4 Loftness mulcher and it has 1000 hours of use. It really needs to be balanced, any suggestions? I enjoy the money the mulching creates but as you know ‘very expensive to run!’ My minimum charge per hour is $250 per hour. I usually been getting $350 per these last several jobs and it’s only bc of my 120 hp. I really enjoy installing roads and culverts. One thing I will highly recommend is check all your hoses and protect them. My 120 is in the shop bc two hoses being compromised.
I'm searching today for spring guards in the correct size. Such as these: amzn.to/3Nsbf3q
and these
amzn.to/43ORfgo
My neighbor put these on his at the beginning and is still on his original hoses at 1000 hrs.
The exit chute were you bent it heat it up with a torch and straighten it and wield a large piece of 1 inch plate extended as far back as you can go and I would like to see you bend that 💪💪😊
Keep me updated on how you fix this issue.
@@stanhutchins4365 well the hyd motor exploded like a hand grenade at about 140hrs and they "fixed it", but I haven't been able to put another 20 hrs on it without it breaking another 2 times now. It's currently at the dealer for assessment.
You can sharpen them quadco teeth. You can get much more life out of them!
There's no material left when we're done with them. And sharpening is not cost effective for as quick as they dull back out