Wiring The Fuel Shut Off Solenoid in On A 12v Swapped Cummins Truck
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- Опубліковано 16 лют 2020
- If you have run into issue trying to wire up your shut off solenoid this video might point you in the right direction.
Update:
It is about a year later as I am updating this video and we have switched over to using the big, square 12v 120 amp relay to run the PULL wire and use a 30/40 amp relay to run the RUN relay. We covered it a little bit in this video, but I want to go back over the fact that on the RUN side of things you need to have a CONTINIOUS duty relay. Early on we were in a pinch and use an intermittent duty relay and they burned out within a week or so of regular use.
I have also gotten a bunch of messages asking for a link to the relays we used. I am going to drop them below. I want to be completely up front. If you chose to buy through our link, IT WILL NOT cost you anything extra. IT WILL help support our channel and allow us to do more on here. If you don't want to help support the channel, just copy the info about what types of relays we are using and then do a search on your favorite site to shop with. Either way, we wish you the best of luck on your project!!!
Here is our Ebay Affiliate link to the relay we use for the 12v 40 amp, RUN relay. This is the lighter duty relay of the two:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53...
If you don't use Ebay, Here is a Amzon affiliate link for a similar 12v 40amp relay:
amzn.to/2IqH5i8
Here are the link for our favorite Heavy duty solenoid for the PULL side of the Fuel Shut solenoid:
Ebay affiliate link:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53...
Amzon affiliate link for the 12v 120amp relay:
amzn.to/2GX313O
If you are looking for the Larry B Fuel Solenoid Diode that you see in the video:
Amazon:
amzn.to/3nhKXRw
Ebay:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53...
If you saw the factor connecter we used, Here's a link to that: ( Can I just add that it was totally worth it for us! We tried a bunch of other way to connect to the fuel shut off, but nothing is as clean and simple as that plug!)
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53... - Авто та транспорт
You explanation was the most clear on UA-cam! Thank you sir!
Thank you so much for the kind words!
Hi Marvin I'm doing my 12valve into a 2000 ford f250 and I see you understand how to wire the fuel shutoff switch can you explain how to wire it up Thanks.
Pretty happy to see this. I will be needing this for my p pump swapped first gen when I do the job. I have everything just need to find the time.
I hope it help ya out cause when we went to do ours. It was a headache... just want to save people some grief!
Break-It Brothers Diesel out of curiosity does the second gens have a diode from the factory? I have a 1996 harness to utilize for my swap.
@@jasontruman1215 Not that I have ever seen. We use these diode in our 3rd gen swaps, but they are sold for the 2and gen guys and we just redirect them!
Are you implying that the red wire from the solenoid should go to the kick solenoid?
Would you be able to add part numbers? I'm doing a 95 Ppump swap into my gasser '81 first gen. The shut off is the only part that needs to be wired, I understand electrical on a basic level that applies to this all my experience and exposure is from an industrial background.
Thanks Guys
Hey Brent! We will try and get those up for you. Just as some feed back, My friend whose truck this is now, uses it just about everyday without any issues.
Are you running the in tank pump to the mechanical lift? Or a sump kit I've finished my 12v swapped 05. Just keep loosing fuel. Last hurdle.
Hi Derek, Correct! We are running the the high volume / low pressure in tank lift pump to either the mechanical lift pump on the side of the block and in other cases, we just run it to something like a walbro 392. We also ad in fuel / water separators and a 2 micron fuel filter just to make sure everything is nice and clean for the injection pump.
Hi I'm doing 2000 F450 Fummins and need help on the Fuel shutoff switch their are other people that wire it different I'm confused can you detail which wires go to were thanks.
Hi There! Thanks for the message and sorry it has taken a second for me to get back to you. I would be happy to help out. Have you watched this video yet? It will work with no issues if you follow how we show in the video here. I try to be specific about ground wire, the pull wire and the run wire, but I know it can be tricky. Let me know exactly what it is that is giving you an issue.
What if the colors of the wire in the solenoid were interchanged, is there anyway to read it with multi meter to Know the wire with highest resistance the one that should go to relay posite , the one that should be grounded and the one that should go to kick solenoid
Well, I should say... don't get too caught up with the color of the wires. Our shut off solenoids have come with different wire colors.
The easiest way to figure out what needs to go where is to grab a simple wire from a 12 volt source. Hook up a ground to the - Ground wire and then take a +12v wire and touch it to the wire you are testing. If the arm jumps up, that is you pull/kick/lift. That one takes the most current and it needs heavy gauge wire, but it will only be on for a split second. It cannot stay on! It will burn up your solenoid. Many guys have burned up their shut off solenoid thinking "what could that hurt?"
If you pull that wire off, the lift arm should drop... The other hot wire will be the HOLD wire. That one take low voltage and holds the arm up. Just take a piece of tape and mark which wire is pull and which one is hold. Hope this helps some!
What I've found is the black wire on the solenoid is always ground. The center wire and the other wire are hold and pull in functions. Hook up a jumper wire to ground and another wire to positive battery, then take the other end of same wire and touch the other spade terminal in the solenoid side of the plug . One will pull the solenoid in . Do not leave this wire hooked up for more than a couple seconds or the solenoid will go up in smoke. Manually push the solenoid plunger in and touch the other spade terminal in the plug, this should hold the plunger in. The other problem ive found is the new solenoids are not always adjusted properly. If the adjusting screw is too long the engine will start but immediately shut off when the key is released. You'll have to play with that to get it right. As far as using a multi meter I'm sure you could if you new what ohm values were for each winding in the solenoid.
Why is this necessary? Is the ignition start & run wires/factory inadequate?
Well, the factory ones do have problems and have to be swapped out from time to time, but this video is reslly for the guys who are doing a swap into a truck that was originally something other than a 12v and doesn't have the wiring in place. You can shut a 12v off with a choke cable, but the setup you see here allows you to shut the truck off with the key.
Use a Ford starter solenoid. I am going to use my starter solenoid to power the pull coil on my swap I am currently working on. I am putting a Ford 6.6 diesel into my 97f250 with an nv4500 trans behind it.
Thanks for the comment! You are right that you can trigger it using the starter. Just make sure to install a one way diode. If your pull solenoid gets stuck on (which does actually happen) it will toast the other burn up your starter.
Your project sounds pretty cool! Let us know how it turns out or better yet, post up a link to a video of it when you get it finished!
@@70440charger will do! Thank you, the starter on the engine has a solenoid, so I am only using the original one to power the pull coil. The switched power for the original ignition coil will now power the hold coil. I will post a video
Is there a way to wire it to a switch an you can just switch it on to click ??
Sure. You would need one relay for the start side and the run side is low enough draw to be handled with just a switch.
Break-It Brothers Diesel but on the wires witch wire does what. Like the pull wire where would I put it if I used a switch an what kinda switch would be able to handle the power??
@@JasonY02 the start side is the only one you need a relay for(takes the load of of the switch. the run he said is low draw so can be wired direct if im not mistaken
@@70440charger wheres the links to the relays?
@@josephmusino1190 Sorry about that. I forgot to drop them in. Good news is that we have been running them daily for about a year now with no issues. They seem to be rock solid. I will put them in the notes today!
Where can we buy the male end?
These "weather pack" plug ends can be purchased on Amazon. Be sure to buy the crimp tool with them.
Bro wats that black connector
Wts the purpose of that
Hey there! Are you talking about the large black connector that we showed in the beginning?
@@70440charger yes bro without this connector any problem?