Great job !! You go girl! I am SO glad to see a woman do a video like this. I am impressed. In an old house like that it would costs many $1000 to replace a bunch of those casement windows. I have 40-years experience as a (male) engineer and craftsman and it took me many hours to figure out how to refurbish old Andersen Casement Window operators without getting taken to the cleaners buying new parts from Andersen. I have 50+ year old Andersen 7073B double-pane casement windows that are on their last legs. I need them to last a few more years before I replace them with vinyl. They require a lot of maintenance now and Andersen is not very helpful. The cranks wear out and just spin around. The corkscrew cannot be replaced. The crank bodies don't open up for refurbishment, so the entire operator must be replaced. Andersen Windows wouldn't answer my questions about third-party replacement parts, because they want me to buy their windows cranks for $180 to $225 each. I said to Andersen "okay scr-- you, I'll find a better replacement" and I replaced my Andersen 7073B (Wooden) Casement Window operators ($218 from Andersen; $225 from distributors like DK or CRL or WindowParts.com) with PrimeLine.net operators from Home Depot for $32 (www.primeline.net/h-3999-casement-operator-whandle-andersen). They sell both right and left hand window operators. They are not an exact replacement, but it you mount the operator channel a little lower (~1/2") on the casement window frame, and correctly centered so the channel guide doesn't not slip out either side, it will work fine. You may need to cut out 1/4" on each side of the "Bottom Interior Stop" (the cosmetic wooden housing that goes over the operator body) to make things fit perfectly. You can also caulk very lightly on the inside of the window stop around the operator body, but don't get ANY caulk on the weatherstripping or the weatherstripping will stop working. Doing this modification saved me over $190 per window. I have six of these Andersen 7073B windows, so it saves me over $1000 on Andersen original crank parts. Andersen is badly outdated in their pricing. Third-party after-market suppliers are kicking their butts. It took me about 4 hours to figure out the tiny details and find the parts, but overall it was probably cheaper than laying out $6000 or more for replacement windows right now. The reason I am putting this information here in this video, is because M00seLady used the exact same $32 casement windows operators that I used to replace my overpriced Andersen $225 window operators. With a little jiggering and crafty work, I was able to get them to fit and operate just fine. Bottom line, if measure dimensions carefully, and get down close to see how things really work, you can make new parts work in very old windows.
Thank You for showing this repair. There is a fixing gene that people either have or they don't. My mother had it and I have it and it appears that you do too. Great satisfaction to repair things or make them work better than before. Love it.
Omg I have those EXACT windows & problem in my kitchen. I have had to stuff all around where it won't close until I can afford to replace it :o( I live in a wooden house & was soooo worried it was caused by it shifting & I would be in for a nightmare I can't afford even if I could replace windows. I LOVE YOU! I am going to try this tomorrow! 🤞
What a great video! We have many windows like that including as you mentioned close with ladder only. 😂 I am going to try to investigate like you did. You gave me big boost of confidence this can be done! Thank you very much!
+Doug Anderson I should not have put in 8 very long screws. It would've been better to go in with 5 or 6 using slightly longer ones than previous, because now if I need to replace the operator I won't have any new wood that I can put screws into.
Nice retrospective explanation. Have a newer window that I need to attack. Hope that getting the cover off is as easy as yours was! Thanks! Will try to get it off before I head out to the hardware store.
M00seLady!!! You are a genius! I actually have this exact casement window from 1975 (never been able to find the make or model, maybe its "truth". No window expert could offer to help me with my weatherstripping issues which are being exacerbated and probably primarily caused by by some sag in the window. This video is exactly what I needed. Thank you M00seLady! Has your repair held up? Have you ever found replacement kerf weathership for this? I have a decent replacement one that uses a bulb shape, but if you've ever fond the V-shaped plastic ones that came with this model of window, I'd love to know, or share the one I've found.
I have this issues but the windows seems to come down...instead of adding the list can we do this for the upper part... i am a novice with this stuff...
It was the original one. It was working fine though it had some "play" from being worn. The problem was the sag in the window itself. I could've replaced the crank if I'd wanted to put in a new one. They're not too expensive.
so.. instead of appying sealant to the operator to fill the gap, why didn't you use finish nails to tighten the sill stop to the sill and operator (or didn't we see that in the video)
+yeahsure1234 I pressed it in as far as it would go and there was still a gap. Perhaps nailing it in may have reduced the gap, but the sealant ensured that it would prevent any leaks.
Excellent demonstration! Impressed with your determined quest for the solution! Your workwomanship is better than any window man I have hired!
Great job !! You go girl! I am SO glad to see a woman do a video like this. I am impressed. In an old house like that it would costs many $1000 to replace a bunch of those casement windows. I have 40-years experience as a (male) engineer and craftsman and it took me many hours to figure out how to refurbish old Andersen Casement Window operators without getting taken to the cleaners buying new parts from Andersen.
I have 50+ year old Andersen 7073B double-pane casement windows that are on their last legs. I need them to last a few more years before I replace them with vinyl. They require a lot of maintenance now and Andersen is not very helpful. The cranks wear out and just spin around. The corkscrew cannot be replaced. The crank bodies don't open up for refurbishment, so the entire operator must be replaced.
Andersen Windows wouldn't answer my questions about third-party replacement parts, because they want me to buy their windows cranks for $180 to $225 each. I said to Andersen "okay scr-- you, I'll find a better replacement" and I replaced my Andersen 7073B (Wooden) Casement Window operators ($218 from Andersen; $225 from distributors like DK or CRL or WindowParts.com) with PrimeLine.net operators from Home Depot for $32 (www.primeline.net/h-3999-casement-operator-whandle-andersen). They sell both right and left hand window operators. They are not an exact replacement, but it you mount the operator channel a little lower (~1/2") on the casement window frame, and correctly centered so the channel guide doesn't not slip out either side, it will work fine. You may need to cut out 1/4" on each side of the "Bottom Interior Stop" (the cosmetic wooden housing that goes over the operator body) to make things fit perfectly. You can also caulk very lightly on the inside of the window stop around the operator body, but don't get ANY caulk on the weatherstripping or the weatherstripping will stop working.
Doing this modification saved me over $190 per window. I have six of these Andersen 7073B windows, so it saves me over $1000 on Andersen original crank parts. Andersen is badly outdated in their pricing. Third-party after-market suppliers are kicking their butts. It took me about 4 hours to figure out the tiny details and find the parts, but overall it was probably cheaper than laying out $6000 or more for replacement windows right now.
The reason I am putting this information here in this video, is because M00seLady used the exact same $32 casement windows operators that I used to replace my overpriced Andersen $225 window operators. With a little jiggering and crafty work, I was able to get them to fit and operate just fine.
Bottom line, if measure dimensions carefully, and get down close to see how things really work, you can make new parts work in very old windows.
Very helpful review of the anatomy of the casement window and an ingenious repair.
Thank You for showing this repair. There is a fixing gene that people either have or they don't.
My mother had it and I have it and it appears that you do too. Great satisfaction to repair things or make them work better than before. Love it.
Dear M00se Lady, brilliant, simple genius! Industry should learn from ppl like you!
Omg I have those EXACT windows & problem in my kitchen. I have had to stuff all around where it won't close until I can afford to replace it :o( I live in a wooden house & was soooo worried it was caused by it shifting & I would be in for a nightmare I can't afford even if I could replace windows.
I LOVE YOU! I am going to try this tomorrow! 🤞
Great video! I can't wait to try this to see if the shim will help raise my window so it can close properly. Thank you!
What a great video! We have many windows like that including as you mentioned close with ladder only. 😂 I am going to try to investigate like you did. You gave me big boost of confidence this can be done! Thank you very much!
I have the same problem with the loose screws. I'll give it a try. Very helpful video. Thanks for posting!
+Doug Anderson I should not have put in 8 very long screws. It would've been better to go in with 5 or 6 using slightly longer ones than previous, because now if I need to replace the operator I won't have any new wood that I can put screws into.
Nice retrospective explanation. Have a newer window that I need to attack. Hope that getting the cover off is as easy as yours was! Thanks! Will try to get it off before I head out to the hardware store.
I admire smart individuals who know how to save $$$. Thank you
I will be saying Hallelujah also if I can fix my window. :) Thank you for your video.
Good job! It's not exactly what I need to do but it gives me ideas.
Thank you for your very informative video. I loved your creative solutions. Good job!
Nice job. Keeps bugs and cold weather out too.
Hallelujah! Love it! Thank you for sharing the God given wisdom!
BRILLIANT! TY this helped me so much!
Very helpful, I have same operator & now I know that I have to take wood covering off to fix the window.
Thank you so much...exactly what my problem was and is now solved!!
This is the exact problem I have. Thank you for making this video
MooseLady, this is a great idea. Well done. Thank you, what a good idea!
This is exactly what my window is doing!! Replaced the crank assembly and still not shutting all the way. It just needs shimmed!? Lol
Good job, I will be trying this on my windows tomorrow.
Love it! Great job and clever thinking
Thanks! This is exactly my problem. Great solution.
M00seLady!!! You are a genius! I actually have this exact casement window from 1975 (never been able to find the make or model, maybe its "truth". No window expert could offer to help me with my weatherstripping issues which are being exacerbated and probably primarily caused by by some sag in the window. This video is exactly what I needed. Thank you M00seLady! Has your repair held up? Have you ever found replacement kerf weathership for this? I have a decent replacement one that uses a bulb shape, but if you've ever fond the V-shaped plastic ones that came with this model of window, I'd love to know, or share the one I've found.
Thank you...good problem solving.
Nice, Thanks for making video.
Very helpful. Thank you!
Brilliant!!!
Bless you for sharing this, HalleLuYAH!
Thank you! 🙂
Thanks I need to replace my crank mechanism and I couldn't figure out how to remove it and now I do.
Great job!!!
I have this issues but the windows seems to come down...instead of adding the list can we do this for the upper part... i am a novice with this stuff...
Is that the original crank operating mechanism? Or did you replace it?
It was the original one. It was working fine though it had some "play" from being worn. The problem was the sag in the window itself. I could've replaced the crank if I'd wanted to put in a new one. They're not too expensive.
so.. instead of appying sealant to the operator to fill the gap, why didn't you use finish nails to tighten the sill stop to the sill and operator (or didn't we see that in the video)
+yeahsure1234 I pressed it in as far as it would go and there was still a gap. Perhaps nailing it in may have reduced the gap, but the sealant ensured that it would prevent any leaks.
nice job
Lady I cannnot see you