Many thanks Dale, a great video. I'm the second owner of the rifle, having bought it from the soldier to whom it was originally issued. It is a 1962/3 vintage rifle, but I have no information about refurbs, maintenance since. The cloth in the handle is a cleaning cloth, in case the bolt gets too dirty during firing. I have not ever cleaned the trigger pack, but do inspect it regularly for wear, and grit in the mechanism. The dust you mentioned probably came from Finnish Brutality 2022 (I was the guy in the Kilt that wasn't Ian). I rarely use the winter trigger, so the bend probably came from its life before me. Now you have adjusted the trigger weight, I'm going to have to re-learn it all over again! Once again, thanks for taking a look at it and giving it such a thorough going-over.
Cheers from Zurich airport! I stopped by Bloke's channel and said hello as well. Thought it'd be cool to say hello while we were in the same country :)
Great stuff, many thanks for interesting material. Would be awesome to see english video for field and complete cleaning of that rifle. This stuff gets seriously dirty.. Warm regards from Goldküste !
Thanks for your great channel! This info is hard to find anywhere else. If you can, I need to see the rear sight detent from the 510-4. These are not available in the States so I will have to make one. I would be very grateful if you can show one and give a few dimensions.
Hello. Do you know anything about the springs for the trigger assembly. I would like to make, about 2kg on a normal trigger. (not winter triger) Do you know anything about this subject?
Hi Andrzej! You can theoretically simply adjust the trigger second stage spring to have the bare minimum of engagement. However, your trigger would become very difficult to use, because the first stage alone is already ca. 1-1.5kg! Therefore, it would be too easy to overshoot the second stage and negligently discharge. Therefore, the only real solution is to regrind and relap the sear angles to be less positive. I suggest getting used to the factory trigger. To help with the first stage stickiness/grittiness, I suggest greasing the sear surface.
Penetrating oil seems to be just thin oil, so I get how it can loosen powdery red rust. Are you saying that oiling an oxide blued surface strips bluing 🤔.
@@DaletheStgwDude I was told it does. I say soak a rust blued part and see if it gets progressively lighter over time. Also instead of scrubbing rust off it's better to convert it by degreasing, boiling, steaming and carding. That converts the slowly accumulated/dense grain rust to rust blue again. No rust blue solution required. edit: and use mineral oil for the first week to let the process complete
@@Foche_T._Schitt I would love to see any formal written references stating that certain grades and viscosities of mineral oil (aka “penetrating oil”) do indeed detach and attack iron black oxide layers. Please share!
@@DaletheStgwDude Mineral oil isn't penetrating oil. PB Blaster is what I consider a penetrating oil. Watch Mark Novak's rust bluing video's. He's got the same Firearm Blueing and Browning book by R.H. Angier that I have but I've only partially read it.
Many thanks Dale, a great video. I'm the second owner of the rifle, having bought it from the soldier to whom it was originally issued. It is a 1962/3 vintage rifle, but I have no information about refurbs, maintenance since. The cloth in the handle is a cleaning cloth, in case the bolt gets too dirty during firing. I have not ever cleaned the trigger pack, but do inspect it regularly for wear, and grit in the mechanism. The dust you mentioned probably came from Finnish Brutality 2022 (I was the guy in the Kilt that wasn't Ian). I rarely use the winter trigger, so the bend probably came from its life before me. Now you have adjusted the trigger weight, I'm going to have to re-learn it all over again! Once again, thanks for taking a look at it and giving it such a thorough going-over.
For me, you are ultimate STGW encyklopedia. Thank you for all your work and for filling the gap in YT, about this wonderfull rifle.
Glad you enjoy!! More to come.
Wonderful insight on adjusting and maintaining the trigger group. Thank you Dale.
Thanks!!! Glad you enjoyed!
Cool your back, i hope your okay. Thank you for this new video. Take care ☘️🙏🏻
All good, thanks for your concern! UA-cam isn’t my full-time job, I upload whenever time and energy allow :)
There are a decent amount of stgw 57 kits hitting the US market , so I felt inclined to watch this. Excellent presentation and video work as always .
Awesome as usual Dale
Cheers from Zurich airport! I stopped by Bloke's channel and said hello as well. Thought it'd be cool to say hello while we were in the same country :)
Write me on Facebook Messenger and we can maybe arrange something!
@Dale the Stgw. Dude Will do!
@@DaletheStgwDude How do I find you on Messenger?
Interesting and satisfying video.
Thanks!!
Great stuff, many thanks for interesting material. Would be awesome to see english video for field and complete cleaning of that rifle. This stuff gets seriously dirty.. Warm regards from Goldküste !
Thanks for your great channel! This info is hard to find anywhere else. If you can, I need to see the rear sight detent from the 510-4. These are not available in the States so I will have to make one. I would be very grateful if you can show one and give a few dimensions.
Unfortunately I have no -4 parts on hand, sorry…
Thanks for your kind feedback!
@@DaletheStgwDude thanks for your reply. Keep up the good work!
Hello.
Do you know anything about the springs for the trigger assembly.
I would like to make, about 2kg on a normal trigger. (not winter triger) Do you know anything about this subject?
Hi Andrzej! You can theoretically simply adjust the trigger second stage spring to have the bare minimum of engagement.
However, your trigger would become very difficult to use, because the first stage alone is already ca. 1-1.5kg! Therefore, it would be too easy to overshoot the second stage and negligently discharge.
Therefore, the only real solution is to regrind and relap the sear angles to be less positive.
I suggest getting used to the factory trigger. To help with the first stage stickiness/grittiness, I suggest greasing the sear surface.
FYI penetrating oil attacks rust. That includes rust blue.
Penetrating oil seems to be just thin oil, so I get how it can loosen powdery red rust. Are you saying that oiling an oxide blued surface strips bluing 🤔.
@@DaletheStgwDude
I was told it does. I say soak a rust blued part and see if it gets progressively lighter over time.
Also instead of scrubbing rust off it's better to convert it by degreasing, boiling, steaming and carding. That converts the slowly accumulated/dense grain rust to rust blue again. No rust blue solution required.
edit: and use mineral oil for the first week to let the process complete
@@Foche_T._Schitt I would love to see any formal written references stating that certain grades and viscosities of mineral oil (aka “penetrating oil”) do indeed detach and attack iron black oxide layers. Please share!
@@DaletheStgwDude
Mineral oil isn't penetrating oil. PB Blaster is what I consider a penetrating oil.
Watch Mark Novak's rust bluing video's. He's got the same Firearm Blueing and Browning book by R.H. Angier that I have but I've only partially read it.
😒 "Promo sm"