As someone who works in the aerospace industry with carbon parts, I can tell you that safety when working with carbon is very important. We have dedicated negative pressure carbon trim rooms with filters to clean the air before its pumped out of the building and the person doing any cutting or grinding wears a fully sealed hazmat suit with a dedicated air supply system. 1. Ideally, you're much better off cutting carbon outside your home with an N95 or higher grade respirator on, so as to not have any free floating dust or dust settling in your workshop that can be kicked up again. 2. Do not use a vacuum cleaner as suggested in this video because you need high quality HEPA filters and exhaust HEPA filters to collect finer carbon dust. Without it, not only you might spread finer carbon dust everywhere from the exhaust, but carbon dust can damage the motor too since most motors are vented to prevent over heating. 3. Always wear a pair of thicker nitrile gloves or double gloves on if one is too fine, because very fine carbon splinters can get in your skin, and that is not a good feeling. 4. Someone else in the comments suggests using shaving foam on area where the blade is cutting to contain any dust that is created. That's a great tip
The hook of the tape measure moves to account for the thickness of the hook of the tape measure so if you're going to hook it or not hook it you need to be pushing or pulling to get an accurate measurement. Having your tape measure next to the bar but somewhere in between full push or full pull is not accurate either. The biggest problem is people drop their tape measures and it bends the hook and that causes the tape measure to be off
Using the Park Tool saw guide ; insert the lower fin of the tool in the vise. Hacksaw teeth should point forward, cut on the push. Inner / outer diameter deburring tool can be found in plumbing tool area at Home Depot 👍🏼 The tubing cutter can crimp the end of the bar making bar ends fit too tightly.
I've cut down several alloy bars using a pipe cutter. I have no issue cutting £30 alloy bars. Several months ago I got my first carbon bar. I bought the Park Tool carbon saw guide and the Park Tool carbon hacksaw blade. I actually put clear tape around my bars even though they have the cut marking. While I was getting ready to make my first cut. The thought of cutting carbon did put some fear in me. As I have never cut down £130 carbon bars before. Once I'd finished cutting both ends. I did feel better about cutting carbon bars. I would still prefer to buy 180mm carbon bars. Then I wouldn't need to cut then down.
cleanest method i've had, same for steerer tubes is a 4inch angle grinder with a 1mm cutting wheel, hacksaws wander to much. tape the bar or steerer and cut with grinder, takes a few seconds
The pipe cutter chamfers the end. That's why its convex or beveled on the end. Supposedly that makes bar plugs or grips fit a little better and have less wear & tear on them. Not sure if that's true but it does make sense.
I bought the same Canyon G5 carbon handlebar. Canyon recommend to not cut more than 20+20 mm. I was planning to cut it from 800mm to 740mm. Do you think it’s ok / safe to shorten it 30+30mm?
If you going to cut the bars shorter with a hacksaw you should definitely use the "Saw Guide" so bars are not askew on end and have to use a file to fix it. ParkTool Item #SG-7.2 Bikehand item #YC-112Lw.
In fact every angle grinder with a narrow cutting disc would cut that carbon bar accurate and smooth. Just wear a mask, carbon dust isn't the best to breathe in
You can make yourself a saw guide with two old lock on grip collars :) But when you're talking expensive carbon handlebar, it's best to invest a bit of time to make sure it's a) straight, and b) safe (not breathing the carbon dust/using a carbon saw blade)
A little tip for ya. I'm a machinist and deal with all kinds of shavings, chips, slivers, etc all the time. When I have a pesky one that I can't get out I use a balm that farmers use on cows utters to keep them from cracking. I put a good dab of it on the spot and cover with a bandage and the balm will help to draw that pesky particle out of your skin. You can also try scraping the area with something kind of sharp but has to be ridged or stiff.
0:20 Aaaaaaaak! No! Dear god no! Never hack saw an Aluminum bar. It will never be a strait cut or dead on accurate. Always use a quality Pipe cutter. It's what they made for, cutting pipe. That's what handle bars are. Pipes. As are fork steer tubes... pipes. For the love of accurate and strait cuts use a Pipe cutter! In 25 years of sizing bars I've never had a pipe cutter fail to make a clean accurate cut. And don't be using some cheapo cutter either.
As someone who works in the aerospace industry with carbon parts, I can tell you that safety when working with carbon is very important. We have dedicated negative pressure carbon trim rooms with filters to clean the air before its pumped out of the building and the person doing any cutting or grinding wears a fully sealed hazmat suit with a dedicated air supply system.
1. Ideally, you're much better off cutting carbon outside your home with an N95 or higher grade respirator on, so as to not have any free floating dust or dust settling in your workshop that can be kicked up again.
2. Do not use a vacuum cleaner as suggested in this video because you need high quality HEPA filters and exhaust HEPA filters to collect finer carbon dust. Without it, not only you might spread finer carbon dust everywhere from the exhaust, but carbon dust can damage the motor too since most motors are vented to prevent over heating.
3. Always wear a pair of thicker nitrile gloves or double gloves on if one is too fine, because very fine carbon splinters can get in your skin, and that is not a good feeling.
4. Someone else in the comments suggests using shaving foam on area where the blade is cutting to contain any dust that is created. That's a great tip
The hook of the tape measure moves to account for the thickness of the hook of the tape measure so if you're going to hook it or not hook it you need to be pushing or pulling to get an accurate measurement. Having your tape measure next to the bar but somewhere in between full push or full pull is not accurate either. The biggest problem is people drop their tape measures and it bends the hook and that causes the tape measure to be off
Bruhhh on goddd, that pissed me off lol I was yelling at the TV hahah
Why can't you hook the measuring tape onto the bar? You know the tip piece moves to compensate for that extra mm, right?
She just want's more comments :)
Apparently not 😉
Knowing how to use hair straighteners…..yep
Knowing how to use a tape measure…… not so much 😄
But every day is a school day 👍👍
Thinking of the old Harry Enfield sketches..... "Know your limits!!!"
The grip clamps for a saw guide is a good hack!
Pipe cutters work great for aluminum bars though.
Using the Park Tool saw guide ; insert the lower fin of the tool in the vise. Hacksaw teeth should point forward, cut on the push. Inner / outer diameter deburring tool can be found in plumbing tool area at Home Depot 👍🏼
The tubing cutter can crimp the end of the bar making bar ends fit too tightly.
I've cut down several alloy bars using a pipe cutter. I have no issue cutting £30 alloy bars. Several months ago I got my first carbon bar. I bought the Park Tool carbon saw guide and the Park Tool carbon hacksaw blade. I actually put clear tape around my bars even though they have the cut marking. While I was getting ready to make my first cut. The thought of cutting carbon did put some fear in me. As I have never cut down £130 carbon bars before. Once I'd finished cutting both ends. I did feel better about cutting carbon bars. I would still prefer to buy 180mm carbon bars. Then I wouldn't need to cut then down.
cleanest method i've had, same for steerer tubes is a 4inch angle grinder with a 1mm cutting wheel, hacksaws wander to much. tape the bar or steerer and cut with grinder, takes a few seconds
Dremel and a fibre wheel as well😉
Also far better for brake and gear cables! No faffing trying to square off the end on a file....
The looseness of the tap on the end of a tape measure is engineered in to zero on both a internal and external measurement
Pipe cutter for alloy and 1mm cutoff disc for carbon , outdoors and a mask on . Masking tape prior to carbon cut makes it easy to mark and ✂️
After cutting a carbon bar, I run a bead of CA glue on the ends to reseal the carbon
The pipe cutter chamfers the end. That's why its convex or beveled on the end. Supposedly that makes bar plugs or grips fit a little better and have less wear & tear on them. Not sure if that's true but it does make sense.
Link for that deburring tool please!
Where can I find that deburring tool?
Great video! 👌
the best one is pipe cutter for sure at least for aluminium handlebars
Normal junior hacksaw worked fine for carbon bars...
I bought the same Canyon G5 carbon handlebar. Canyon recommend to not cut more than 20+20 mm. I was planning to cut it from 800mm to 740mm. Do you think it’s ok / safe to shorten it 30+30mm?
If you going to cut the bars shorter with a hacksaw you should definitely use the "Saw Guide" so bars are not askew on end and have to use a file to fix it.
ParkTool Item #SG-7.2
Bikehand item #YC-112Lw.
5:26 Isn't the tab at the bottom of the guide supposed to clamped?
Yes, she just doesn’t know what she’s doing
Always measure from the center out.
That's one thing I just don't do is cut bars, run mine 800 wide.i do keep a couple of clamps from old grips as guides in the Ole tool box though.
When using the park tool saw guides you should put the metal sticky-outy bit in the vice and not the plasticy-clampy bit. Good vid tho
Dude she seriously pissed me off so much with the wack stuff she said haha
Thank you so much its help me to have idea to cut my handle bar with using hacksaw .New subscriber here😊😅
But how do you know if a narrower handlebar wouldn´t be better?
There's no reason to have overly narrow bars on a moutain bike.
Hi, can i use the pipe cutter in the carbon handlebar??
no, wtf, did you not watch the video?
I think I’ll stick to my bike shop doing it for me bc the tools be breaking the bank
Small plumbers pipe cutter for bars is less than 10 quid in uk
Oh gawd! You don't need that whole pile of tools!! A 12 inch DeWalt miter saw with a Revolution blade in it makes cutting quick and square!
In fact every angle grinder with a narrow cutting disc would cut that carbon bar accurate and smooth. Just wear a mask, carbon dust isn't the best to breathe in
@@simonm1447 . Takes too long. Lol.
Good video for all the dentists out there. But, the average person trimming their bars does not have all those tools. You have a hacksaw and ingenuity
You can make yourself a saw guide with two old lock on grip collars :) But when you're talking expensive carbon handlebar, it's best to invest a bit of time to make sure it's a) straight, and b) safe (not breathing the carbon dust/using a carbon saw blade)
Pipe cutter wins for me every time. Those almost invisible metal shavings in your fingers are nasty
A little tip for ya. I'm a machinist and deal with all kinds of shavings, chips, slivers, etc all the time. When I have a pesky one that I can't get out I use a balm that farmers use on cows utters to keep them from cracking. I put a good dab of it on the spot and cover with a bandage and the balm will help to draw that pesky particle out of your skin. You can also try scraping the area with something kind of sharp but has to be ridged or stiff.
Thanks , for the future..
@@brianlunan8276 no problem.... btw brass is the worst. Lol
Doesn't look like Park Tool makes those 😂
@@islandaerial3414
Park tool version....50 quid 😀😀
height in cm x 4.4 = bar length in mm
it works unless you have super jumbo monkey arms
I've used a tubing cutter on alloy bars, can't see why that wouldn't work great on a carbon bar as well. They are precise and accurate, no wandering.
They would just crush the carbon bar, instead of cutting it. Using an angle grinder would be better for the carbon
We all do it... But mil is not mm. A mil is another unit, = 1 thousandth of an inch. Ex gf told me that.... Often 😄
❤❤❤
My goodness, do you really need all those tools? I’d think a tungsten hacksaw blade would do for example. No need to buy some park tools thing
0:20 Aaaaaaaak! No! Dear god no! Never hack saw an Aluminum bar. It will never be a strait cut or dead on accurate. Always use a quality Pipe cutter. It's what they made for, cutting pipe. That's what handle bars are. Pipes. As are fork steer tubes... pipes. For the love of accurate and strait cuts use a Pipe cutter! In 25 years of sizing bars I've never had a pipe cutter fail to make a clean accurate cut. And don't be using some cheapo cutter either.
Sponsored by Park Tools? 😅
Noooo! Shurely not???
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