Architect: footings for retaining walls can be huge because they are functionally cantilevered from the ground. The footing sticking way outside the wall needs to have enough soil on it to keep the wall from tipping over, and you need a lot of steel reinforcing between the two to functionally tie them together so they function as a single element. Normal foundation walls don't need this (even in a basement where they are holding back lots of dirt) because the floor system is tied to the top and acts to reinforce the wall laterally. So in that case your footing only needs to resist gravity loads. You can solve this by just making the wall full height (so if your shop had a 9' ceiling, make the concrete 9' high and attach it to your roof framing/2nd floor framing). The drawback is you get to look at concrete on the outside, but you get a much smaller footing.
I agree the non-retaining-wall footings seem pretty big, but its really hard to say if they are oversized without knowing what the soil underneath them is like. Soil bearing capacity varies a lot (even within the same lot sometimes). If you have good soil (2500psf or up) footings can be shockingly small, even on large houses. If you have crap soil they can get quite large even when modestly loaded. At the end of the day, most engineers/architects are going to give a bit of cushion on footing size. The absolute last thing you want is the structure to settle after its been constructed and occupied. The cost difference between a 24" and 30" footing isn't that much.
Yes. Architect here. I've been hearing the "over-designed" complaint from Building Contractors and Owners for 45 years. Did the Owner review the drawings with the Architect / Engineer before permit submission? Now complaining about it? Most states base their building code on the IRC (International Residential Code) written by the ICC (International Code Council), then modify / adopt it by state or local jurisdiction. The IRC changes every three years and base the changes on recent empirical data ....storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, wind, seismic, etc. As such, structural requirements are constantly increasing. Architects / Engineers are required by law to comply with building code and local plans examiners will look for this compliance. There is also the liability issue for Architects / Engineers / Building Contractors. One lawsuit can wipe you out. I've refused projects when the Owner's "cowboy" approach would place everyone involved in jeopardy. Just defending yourself in a lawsuit can cost more than your fee. Owners are often aghast at the cost of building and I have to explain that building code requirements are a part of the cost equation. Everything runs downhill and the Owner has to pay for it. Cement is one component in concrete ....many use these terms interchangeably ....not correct. Engineering has been broken down into several specialties ......structural, soils, civil, mechanical, etc. Some engineers are licensed to do many of these but they are not necessarily interchangeable.
Another bit of information to Owners .....many Building Contractors learn their knowledge of building code through "negative example", meaning they get called-out by the local field inspector for building code violation. Then they carry that information forward on new projects, but it may not necessarily be current info. Example: 18 years ago I was chided by a Building Contractor that my stair design did not comply with building code. I replied to him with chapter and verse from the current building code ...I never received a response. But the house was built according to my design. The only Building Contractor I've known to actually own a copy of the Building Code was my Dad (a light-commercial building contractor) and that was 50 years ago!
What I like about you, is that it is not nessecarily overbuilt, but built to last a lifetime and when and if you ever sell, this video documentation of the build will prove just that. Going to love this build. My wife and I are so proud of you guys
I cannot tell you how much I THOROUGHLY ENJOY you and your channel!! In these times, it's therapeutic for my mental health! You entertain, educate, inform, etc.! THANK YOU! I am so blessed. I have been watching your channel for YEARS! TOTALLY enjoy it, makes my day when I see a new video. Blessings!
Love the channel and this series! FYI: since your pulling new service to the garage, DO NOT run copper (cat6) between your house and garage. The ground differentials will wreak HAVOC on your networking equipment and any devices attached. Run Fiber between the house and garage. distance and speed in this case doesn't matter, but the fiber will alleviate any ground differentials! Source: Im a professional AV contractor that works in large homes and estates, with multiple outbuildings being connected with years of experience :)
Or... he could run POE (Power over Ethernet) on the Cat 6 and not use any power from the shop and Run a WiFi Access Point. Would I put in Fiber, yeah but average homeowner doesn't know how to puck and polish...but may get lucky and use crimp on connectors rolling the dice without owning a power meter.
@@davidconley4at that length, pre-terminated. Would've done 1" PVC with no tight-radius bends, but I just like making it easy on myself. This guy is way beyond the average homeowner anyways, he'd be one to understand
@@davidconley4 he would just need todo preterminated fiber. If I had to guess it’s less then 125ft wireft length from shop to house. If he really wanted todo custom, for homeowners clearline fiber is more than adequate. I’m Corning fiber certified, but haven’t done traditional fiber in years since clearline came out.
Don’t the grounds get tied together when he runs the power to the garage off his main feed? Edit: I am an idiot he is pulling a new service which was even in your comment, ignore me.
@brendonziegenbein5226 I've run ethernet in applications like this between commercial buildings with separate services (each with their own transformers) and never had issues with ground differentials. Ground differentials used to matter in data centers when serial was a major communication medium (they use 5V signalling) but ethernet is designed to handle far more ground differential then two services running from the same transformer will ever have. The grounds & neutrals for each service are bonded at the panel, and then the neutrals for each service are bonded at the pole so the ground differential will be miniscule.
I had NO IDEA you were only 2.5 hours from me! I get my wood for my WW business in Ohio Amish country at Keim Lumber in Charm, OH. I'm loving this shop build and how much you're prospering right now servicing the WW community with your innovations. Godspeed sir.
Consider running fiber instead of copper for the network. Copper can pick up interference and transient voltage running long distances underground. You can use media converters at each end.
Listen to this guy. Maximum copper runs from powered device to powered device is 320ft in perfect conditions. Another facet is many devices have 'Green' or 'EEE' modes which operate at lower power levels resulting in transmission issues at shorter distances.
@@thweap Maximum ethernet segment length is 100m. Once you factor in patch cords at each end, terminations, the practical maximum length is around 270ft from my experience (doing this for well over a decade). And ethernet is designed to handle interference along it's length, why they use the signaling methods they do. And if you are really worried about interference, use shielded CAT6 with the proper terminations for the shield and you should be fine.
Overbuilt but still cool. Can’t wait to see the next few videos. Hope you don’t need any more soil. The framing is gonna be interesting. If you have the wallet, go for it! 👍
Is it too late to add framing for a 2nd garage door now? Maybe you never put it in, but from a resale perspective, it's nice to be able to say that the header is already installed for a 2nd garage door.
I hope you put in a French drain on the outside walls by the hill near the footers and don't forget the downspout pipes right below the ground! double wall with smooth inner wall or triple wall!
You are living my dream, sir. No doubt about it, you deserve it and have worked hard to get where you are. But, I'm glad that we get to watch along. So far, the shop is looking amazing and I love the design. You make a lot of great points when discussing your idea to have a larger, single car garage door. Can't wait to see the rest.
built homes in oregon (15) also helped good friend pour many foundations...between us probably 10 "daylight basements" homes where house is set back like your shop...had one 10 ft back wall 40 ft long to turns...geo came back good...first engineer (found by client) speced 12" walls 2 matts 3/4 rebar, 12" on center keyed and rebar tied into 6 ft wide x12" deep footing 2 matts 3/4 rebar 8' on center...(we poured a 6" garage floor entire bottom which engineer knew about).... hill dropped clear 10ft into turn walls (also 40 ft long but he called for same footing and wall thickness entire foundation...took drawings to engineer friend who had worked on damns (still standing). 8" walls 1 matt 1/2" rebar 16" centers on back, off set (for tip over prevent) on 3 ft by 8" footing reduced to 6" 1matt 1/2" rebar 24" on center 2ft by 6" footing 1 matt 1/2' rebar 12"centers...the big differnce was first engineer designed a stand alone product ;second engineered took into account cemment floor and second floor tieing it all into a box along with a wall in center of basement running back to front acting as a shear wall....this house was a clustter f... because the client kept finding these great deals until walked off the job wth crew ;only way came back only deal with the wife
Yep. Me too. Prep to the max, get a ton of stuff in case anything goes wrong long before I even think of actually doing/making something. Mind you, down here in New Zealand "stuff" isn't as easily accessible as it is out your way.
So well said. Residential construction is minimal to cut cost corners. No that footing is not overbuilt considering soil, weather, depth of backfill, and bearing load. Road construction for 30+ years and if you don't have a good foundation (especially with concrete) you have failures before you know it and those cost more than the initial build.
@@reekreeks the pressure being put on that wall by the soil behind it is actually trying to lift the footer. So the rebar would be in the top third, not the bottom third like a regular footing with weight pushing down on it.
@@rossmillard9804 no. thats why you add an additional higher mat of steel. you never shift the mat that is suppose to be near the bottom higher. it is required. They are cutting corners by not having the proper 2 mat layers of steel.
@@reekreeks never met an engineer interested in cutting corners. Never met a construction crew skimping on rebar they are not paying for and charge by the foot. You can see where the rebar is turned down and doubled on the front side of the footing. (9:18) Same detail I've see 100 times over the past 30 years.
Quite the foundation indeed! I like the preparation for internet, but you probably want to run fiber instead of cat6 (or at least run cat6a for 10gig support). If you are going between buildings with separate electrical systems then fiber will give you electrical isolation. Also nice since it's going through the ground that because it's non-conductive if you have lightning that strikes nearby it won't act as a conduit to electrocute all the equipment connected to the network.
I like how your plans integrated the shop into the landscape and fit it to match the house in design. There are too many pole barns, behind otherwise nice homes, that look out of place. Do it once, do it right.
Damn man, if you're in the Dayton area you're not far from me at all. I'm right across the line in Indiana. So about 30 minutes from Dayton. Love the shop man. I too have a dream shop I want to build in the next 5 years. Our house will be paid off by then so I can use the former house payment to pay for a new shop. The joys of leveraging finances.
I can't even be jealous of getting to do this amazing build because I've been watching Travis, for a while, and realize he is where he is, very deliberately, due to focus and drive. Okay, I'm a good bit jealous of that focus and drive... and that's why I'm watching 😉
There are several factors that go into calculating the slab. Soil conditions are normally a big factor in determining the grade beam and footings along with the building itself, uplift, wind conditions and live load on the slab itself. There is a lot that goes into designing on. I'm not a civil engineer, but I work for civil engineers that design foundations all the time.
Don't use CAT6 to go between buildings. Use that conduit to pull a pre-terminated fiber cable. Use media converters or a switch with SFP port. That way you want have any issues with ground loops between buildings.
100% this. Pull 3 pair of pre-terminated!! You'll never need the bandwidth and it won't be subject to any of the problems that can occur with copper. Another good thing is if you decide to install any sort of backup for your data, put it in the garage. God forbid...but housefires happen.
Thank you, I was going to say the same thing. the Cat6 is only good for 300 feet and something like 10GB/s. Pulling fiber reduces a lot of issues like noise on the line, ground loop problems, speed issues, etc. Put 2 fiber converters (1 in the house and one in the shop) that go from copper to fiber and back, with a switch in the shop and he'll be good-to-go.
Wow! When you bought the place and said there would eventually be a 'shop out back' no one pictured this. But it seems like the property is nearly perfect for what you want to accomplish here. (steep grade excepted) Well done, with your usual attention to detail. Any pushback from the neighbors or city fathers?
Great video Travis. Glad to see you used the best concrete in the business, Ernst Concrete, but I'm a little bias. QC tech in the Columbus Division. Keep up the great work 👍
I built a house once (in Australia) that took 70 metres of concrete just to get to ground level to start building the house. Yes, I can see your concern that you might think it was over engineered, maybe it was but you won't have to go in, not in your lifetime to do remedial work on those footings or retaining walls. I enjoyed the video and can appreciate your comments.
That's not just a footer the typical structure like a house, to distribute vertical loads. It is doubling for a retaining wall. Now you have lateral forces from the soil acting in multiple directions. The footer needs to be robust. Better to be over designed and over built than to have to deal with cracked and possibly a wall failure later. Now that would expensive. Added note...I believe keyways should be required in all foundations. They will prevent movement due to cold joints.
Prob too late, but I think an RV garage door would be a better choice. With that long private driveway a new owner would want to park an RV in that beautiful garage. Just a thought. Beautiful work so far btw.
Hey, just wanted to ask if you have an opinion on the AnkerMake M5C for a first budget 3D printer, as far a the unit itself, the software and the slicer.
I lived around Dayton. I remember that was the first place I encountered Radon mitigation. Do they require that for a shop, is it strictly classified as a garage?
As an IT infrastructure guy, I hope you ran multiple runs of Cat6 and left a pull string in there as well. I'm with you though on preferring overbuilt vs. underbuilt. Cool series, will keep a lookout for more videos on this.
Disagree. He should be running fiber. Then he's got complete and total electrical isolation between the house and the shop. Fiber is inexpensive, easy to pull, and easy to terminate.
@@XannDaMann What @robertrodriguez3202 said. IF you need internet / network connectivity in your new space (e.g. cameras, TVs, Wi-Fi etc.), I encourage running Cat6E (Category 6E) (Cat7 is available but overkill for home applications) It is low voltage wiring with 4 pairs of wires in a common sheath. The pairs are twisted to reduce interference. You do wireless if what you're building is close enough to existing Wi-Fi coverage. Today's Wi-Fi extenders are pretty decent. But wired is superior. It's not expensive. The conduit and labor (if hired out) would probably cost more than the Cat6E. 1000ft. of it is less than $150 on amazon. Caveat: If the new space is further than about 300 ft / 100 meters from home router you'd have to consider fiber-optic which is more involved.
Great job! I’m just wondering about that form oil spray, does that affect the bond from the footer to the wall? Because it seem like it got on the footer. Plus the pink ridgid foam, Is it me or could’ve done a better job of installing it? It just seemed like a halfhearted job, for something that is so simple and does it take much skill to do. But yeah no tape on the seams, there’s gaps (especially at the corners) for such an unskilled job, It should’ve been talking seriously. And yes “I know we live in America” but can we have just a little pride in our work, like the Japanese, or the Swedish or Germans?
All I am doing is pulling a new separate service to my shop and I am already annoyed by the process and timeline. I cannot imagine how much effort and headache this project is. But man oh man does it seem like it’s going to be totally worth it!
The size of the foundation is because that wall is going to be holding back soil. And most likely, soil that probably contains clay,, or soil that can easily shift, or a lot of water that could freeze.
The underground gun vault walls for our new house will be 18" thick with a 36" footer that will be 5' deep. 10' high walls with a 12" cap. shouldn't go anywhere. Overbuilt is underrated!
This is clearly a case of the engineer saying “I don’t have time to do the calcs so just build “this” and you’ll be fine and I won’t get sued”. I can’t imagine what terrible soil conditions would warrant a foundation like this.
IT guy here. Don’t pull Ethernet use fiber instead. You aren’t going a huge distance so multimode fiber is fine. Media converters will work, but get switches with SFP jacks instead.
Team with a lot of experience???.!!! But the spay the formwork with oil and the rebar installed inside of the formwork! I am pretty sure that the spray the formwork so concrete doesn't stick to the formwork, but what about the oil on the rebar??😂😂😂😂
I would have done something like this, but also gone for silica-fume high PSI concrete.. because why not, a bit of additional cost but will last forever and handle loads.
My 820 sq ft shop doesn't have anything like that for a foundation. I think my footers were a foot wide by 10 inches deep or possibly the other way around.
Forms should have been sprayed or waxed BEFORE erecting. You don’t want oil dripping or over sprayed onto fresh concrete below as it can prevent bonding with the new wall.
If you think the foundations are over engineered get a calculator and pen and prove it with calculations. That garage is the size of an average house and the retaining wall / foundations looks to be about right for what it is retaining and a lot depends on the soil bearing capacity too. Im in engineering and have seen a lot of these. You will never regret overbuilt.
might be overbuilt in the US, but this is quite standard for Europe. except for the fact, that in poured-in-place retaining walls, you don't only have upright rebar placed in the middle (judging by the shots about a feet apart), but there are 2 rows of these running alongside the form on each side, about and inch from the boards, spaced (based on project requirements / statics plans) 7-10 inches, interlocked by horizontally tied rebar once again, every 7-10 inch apart. also, spraying board oil like on the video once the forms are all set up and rebar's placed isn't a good idea, as the spray will not only stick to the boards, but to the rebar as well, which then means the concrete can't bond properly to the rebar. better (or should I say proper) practice is applying the oil with a roller, while still laying flat, before setting up.
Finally doing the foundation properly. Your comment about being overbuilt is so wrong. It meets requirements but is not overbuilt by a long shot, as a structural engineer I know. Glad to see they are doing things right and is so typical, nothing goes as planned and proper planning means you should expect delays. I would suggest that you make the header for the door so it could be changed at a later date for a two car garage door or a space for a second garage door (simple to do and won't cost you much now but could save you (or the next owner) a small fortune if you desire it. Good luck on this venture.
you should always overkill, so to speak, you have to think about loads lateral and otherwise as well as weaknesses and unforseen vulnerability. overdesigning foundations is always a great idea, can make a huge difference in even of any natural disasters or unforseen things.
I know exactly how you feel about the over engineered wall's as when I was building my shop I have a section of the slab that's 4 foot thick 🤯🤔, this was due to the fact that whilst digging out for the foundations I actually had water flowing into the area of the top right corner of the foundations and it was because I hit a Natural Spring 🫣😳. Water just kept on coming and coming out of the ground and flooding out my slab area. The only way to stop it was to put a marine type pour of concrete that was basically "Waterproof " not only Waterproof concrete but I also have an aray of "French drains" crisscrossing the entire slab area. I could have cried as it was a nightmare to deal with, not to mention the extra delays in all area's and the cost basically tripled in price for the concrete pour. That said I have not seen a single bubbling of water coming from my ground or had any moisture issues in my workshop whatsoever in the past 3 yrs of the shop being built🧐. As alway's buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
The video quality here is out of this world. I hope people appreciate the time and effort that goes into putting something like this together. Can't wait to see the rest!
Thanks for following along! Go watch Part 1 HERE: ua-cam.com/video/11M9tke3y2E/v-deo.html
Architect: footings for retaining walls can be huge because they are functionally cantilevered from the ground. The footing sticking way outside the wall needs to have enough soil on it to keep the wall from tipping over, and you need a lot of steel reinforcing between the two to functionally tie them together so they function as a single element. Normal foundation walls don't need this (even in a basement where they are holding back lots of dirt) because the floor system is tied to the top and acts to reinforce the wall laterally. So in that case your footing only needs to resist gravity loads.
You can solve this by just making the wall full height (so if your shop had a 9' ceiling, make the concrete 9' high and attach it to your roof framing/2nd floor framing). The drawback is you get to look at concrete on the outside, but you get a much smaller footing.
Also an architect. This. 100%.
Structural engineer: Overbuilt.
I agree the non-retaining-wall footings seem pretty big, but its really hard to say if they are oversized without knowing what the soil underneath them is like. Soil bearing capacity varies a lot (even within the same lot sometimes). If you have good soil (2500psf or up) footings can be shockingly small, even on large houses. If you have crap soil they can get quite large even when modestly loaded.
At the end of the day, most engineers/architects are going to give a bit of cushion on footing size. The absolute last thing you want is the structure to settle after its been constructed and occupied. The cost difference between a 24" and 30" footing isn't that much.
Yes. Architect here. I've been hearing the "over-designed" complaint from Building Contractors and Owners for 45 years. Did the Owner review the drawings with the Architect / Engineer before permit submission? Now complaining about it? Most states base their building code on the IRC (International Residential Code) written by the ICC (International Code Council), then modify / adopt it by state or local jurisdiction. The IRC changes every three years and base the changes on recent empirical data ....storms, tornadoes, hurricanes, wind, seismic, etc. As such, structural requirements are constantly increasing. Architects / Engineers are required by law to comply with building code and local plans examiners will look for this compliance. There is also the liability issue for Architects / Engineers / Building Contractors. One lawsuit can wipe you out. I've refused projects when the Owner's "cowboy" approach would place everyone involved in jeopardy. Just defending yourself in a lawsuit can cost more than your fee. Owners are often aghast at the cost of building and I have to explain that building code requirements are a part of the cost equation. Everything runs downhill and the Owner has to pay for it.
Cement is one component in concrete ....many use these terms interchangeably ....not correct. Engineering has been broken down into several specialties ......structural, soils, civil, mechanical, etc. Some engineers are licensed to do many of these but they are not necessarily interchangeable.
Another bit of information to Owners .....many Building Contractors learn their knowledge of building code through "negative example", meaning they get called-out by the local field inspector for building code violation. Then they carry that information forward on new projects, but it may not necessarily be current info. Example: 18 years ago I was chided by a Building Contractor that my stair design did not comply with building code. I replied to him with chapter and verse from the current building code ...I never received a response. But the house was built according to my design. The only Building Contractor I've known to actually own a copy of the Building Code was my Dad (a light-commercial building contractor) and that was 50 years ago!
I love this series!
Can't help thinking that the foundation looks fairly similar to what you see over in Finnish homes, especially modern ones.
What I like about you, is that it is not nessecarily overbuilt, but built to last a lifetime and when and if you ever sell, this video documentation of the build will prove just that. Going to love this build. My wife and I are so proud of you guys
I cannot tell you how much I THOROUGHLY ENJOY you and your channel!! In these times, it's therapeutic for my mental health! You entertain, educate, inform, etc.!
THANK YOU!
I am so blessed. I have been watching your channel for YEARS! TOTALLY enjoy it, makes my day when I see a new video.
Blessings!
Love the channel and this series! FYI: since your pulling new service to the garage, DO NOT run copper (cat6) between your house and garage. The ground differentials will wreak HAVOC on your networking equipment and any devices attached. Run Fiber between the house and garage. distance and speed in this case doesn't matter, but the fiber will alleviate any ground differentials! Source: Im a professional AV contractor that works in large homes and estates, with multiple outbuildings being connected with years of experience :)
Or... he could run POE (Power over Ethernet) on the Cat 6 and not use any power from the shop and Run a WiFi Access Point. Would I put in Fiber, yeah but average homeowner doesn't know how to puck and polish...but may get lucky and use crimp on connectors rolling the dice without owning a power meter.
@@davidconley4at that length, pre-terminated. Would've done 1" PVC with no tight-radius bends, but I just like making it easy on myself. This guy is way beyond the average homeowner anyways, he'd be one to understand
@@davidconley4 he would just need todo preterminated fiber. If I had to guess it’s less then 125ft wireft length from shop to house.
If he really wanted todo custom, for homeowners clearline fiber is more than adequate. I’m Corning fiber certified, but haven’t done traditional fiber in years since clearline came out.
Don’t the grounds get tied together when he runs the power to the garage off his main feed?
Edit: I am an idiot he is pulling a new service which was even in your comment, ignore me.
@brendonziegenbein5226 I've run ethernet in applications like this between commercial buildings with separate services (each with their own transformers) and never had issues with ground differentials. Ground differentials used to matter in data centers when serial was a major communication medium (they use 5V signalling) but ethernet is designed to handle far more ground differential then two services running from the same transformer will ever have. The grounds & neutrals for each service are bonded at the panel, and then the neutrals for each service are bonded at the pole so the ground differential will be miniscule.
That guy from Korn was surprisingly agile walking the forms!
Glad to see you getting some traction on the shop. I wish you luck in getting it built with no major issues.
I had NO IDEA you were only 2.5 hours from me! I get my wood for my WW business in Ohio Amish country at Keim Lumber in Charm, OH. I'm loving this shop build and how much you're prospering right now servicing the WW community with your innovations. Godspeed sir.
Consider running fiber instead of copper for the network. Copper can pick up interference and transient voltage running long distances underground. You can use media converters at each end.
Listen to this guy. Maximum copper runs from powered device to powered device is 320ft in perfect conditions. Another facet is many devices have 'Green' or 'EEE' modes which operate at lower power levels resulting in transmission issues at shorter distances.
cat6 also has limitations on the run length.
And you are future proofing the connection for higher speeds. Fibre all the way!
@@thweap Maximum ethernet segment length is 100m. Once you factor in patch cords at each end, terminations, the practical maximum length is around 270ft from my experience (doing this for well over a decade). And ethernet is designed to handle interference along it's length, why they use the signaling methods they do. And if you are really worried about interference, use shielded CAT6 with the proper terminations for the shield and you should be fine.
@@ronlandry7672 Just run conduit the entire length then you can pull whatever you want in future.
Overbuilt but still cool. Can’t wait to see the next few videos. Hope you don’t need any more soil. The framing is gonna be interesting. If you have the wallet, go for it! 👍
I have read a lot of research that says key ways are a waste. In fact roughing up the surface of the footer is just as good as a key way.
Is it too late to add framing for a 2nd garage door now? Maybe you never put it in, but from a resale perspective, it's nice to be able to say that the header is already installed for a 2nd garage door.
I hope you put in a French drain on the outside walls by the hill near the footers and don't forget the downspout pipes right below the ground! double wall with smooth inner wall or triple wall!
You are living my dream, sir. No doubt about it, you deserve it and have worked hard to get where you are. But, I'm glad that we get to watch along. So far, the shop is looking amazing and I love the design. You make a lot of great points when discussing your idea to have a larger, single car garage door. Can't wait to see the rest.
built homes in oregon (15) also helped good friend pour many foundations...between us probably 10 "daylight basements" homes where house is set back like your shop...had one 10 ft back wall 40 ft long to turns...geo came back good...first engineer (found by client) speced 12" walls 2 matts 3/4 rebar, 12" on center keyed and rebar tied into 6 ft wide x12" deep footing 2 matts 3/4 rebar 8' on center...(we poured a 6" garage floor entire bottom which engineer knew about).... hill dropped clear 10ft into turn walls (also 40 ft long but he called for same footing and wall thickness entire foundation...took drawings to engineer friend who had worked on damns (still standing). 8" walls 1 matt 1/2" rebar 16" centers on back, off set (for tip over prevent) on 3 ft by 8" footing reduced to 6" 1matt 1/2" rebar 24" on center 2ft by 6" footing 1 matt 1/2' rebar 12"centers...the big differnce was first engineer designed a stand alone product ;second engineered took into account cemment floor and second floor tieing it all into a box along with a wall in center of basement running back to front acting as a shear wall....this house was a clustter f... because the client kept finding these great deals until walked off the job wth crew ;only way came back only deal with the wife
Yep. Me too. Prep to the max, get a ton of stuff in case anything goes wrong long before I even think of actually doing/making something. Mind you, down here in New Zealand "stuff" isn't as easily accessible as it is out your way.
Being in structural engineering for 35 years, that foundation is designed how it should be. Residential construction is a joke.
The rebar is in the wrong place. It needs to be lower.
So well said. Residential construction is minimal to cut cost corners. No that footing is not overbuilt considering soil, weather, depth of backfill, and bearing load. Road construction for 30+ years and if you don't have a good foundation (especially with concrete) you have failures before you know it and those cost more than the initial build.
@@reekreeks the pressure being put on that wall by the soil behind it is actually trying to lift the footer. So the rebar would be in the top third, not the bottom third like a regular footing with weight pushing down on it.
@@rossmillard9804 no. thats why you add an additional higher mat of steel. you never shift the mat that is suppose to be near the bottom higher. it is required. They are cutting corners by not having the proper 2 mat layers of steel.
@@reekreeks never met an engineer interested in cutting corners. Never met a construction crew skimping on rebar they are not paying for and charge by the foot. You can see where the rebar is turned down and doubled on the front side of the footing. (9:18) Same detail I've see 100 times over the past 30 years.
You have the resources to build something that will last forever you should. Nice job
Quite the foundation indeed! I like the preparation for internet, but you probably want to run fiber instead of cat6 (or at least run cat6a for 10gig support). If you are going between buildings with separate electrical systems then fiber will give you electrical isolation. Also nice since it's going through the ground that because it's non-conductive if you have lightning that strikes nearby it won't act as a conduit to electrocute all the equipment connected to the network.
I like how your plans integrated the shop into the landscape and fit it to match the house in design.
There are too many pole barns, behind otherwise nice homes, that look out of place.
Do it once, do it right.
Damn man, if you're in the Dayton area you're not far from me at all. I'm right across the line in Indiana. So about 30 minutes from Dayton. Love the shop man. I too have a dream shop I want to build in the next 5 years. Our house will be paid off by then so I can use the former house payment to pay for a new shop. The joys of leveraging finances.
I can't even be jealous of getting to do this amazing build because I've been watching Travis, for a while, and realize he is where he is, very deliberately, due to focus and drive.
Okay, I'm a good bit jealous of that focus and drive... and that's why I'm watching 😉
🎉🎉🎉 i've been waiting for this video fix of mine for a y o, thank you🎉🎉🎉
There are several factors that go into calculating the slab. Soil conditions are normally a big factor in determining the grade beam and footings along with the building itself, uplift, wind conditions and live load on the slab itself. There is a lot that goes into designing on. I'm not a civil engineer, but I work for civil engineers that design foundations all the time.
Don't use CAT6 to go between buildings. Use that conduit to pull a pre-terminated fiber cable. Use media converters or a switch with SFP port. That way you want have any issues with ground loops between buildings.
Fiber is definitely the way to go. It is very cheap these days, and as before stated, will keep stray power from doing bad things.
and as with everything: pull more than one, the cost and effort of redoing it later is a lot more than adding a redundant wire now.
Also prevents surges in the garage from taking out the networking equipment in the main house.
100% this. Pull 3 pair of pre-terminated!! You'll never need the bandwidth and it won't be subject to any of the problems that can occur with copper. Another good thing is if you decide to install any sort of backup for your data, put it in the garage. God forbid...but housefires happen.
Thank you, I was going to say the same thing. the Cat6 is only good for 300 feet and something like 10GB/s. Pulling fiber reduces a lot of issues like noise on the line, ground loop problems, speed issues, etc. Put 2 fiber converters (1 in the house and one in the shop) that go from copper to fiber and back, with a switch in the shop and he'll be good-to-go.
Wow! When you bought the place and said there would eventually be a 'shop out back' no one pictured this. But it seems like the property is nearly perfect for what you want to accomplish here. (steep grade excepted) Well done, with your usual attention to detail. Any pushback from the neighbors or city fathers?
Americans use a little bit of concrete in their project and they immediately think they’re building a bunker 😂
Cool, cool, cool ! Really looking forward to watching along!
Great video Travis. Glad to see you used the best concrete in the business, Ernst Concrete, but I'm a little bias. QC tech in the Columbus Division. Keep up the great work 👍
Thanks for bringing us along, looking forward to seeing this series...
I built a house once (in Australia) that took 70 metres of concrete just to get to ground level to start building the house. Yes, I can see your concern that you might think it was over engineered, maybe it was but you won't have to go in, not in your lifetime to do remedial work on those footings or retaining walls. I enjoyed the video and can appreciate your comments.
Pouring that concrete looked tasty. Like oatmeal just right.😋
That's not just a footer the typical structure like a house, to distribute vertical loads. It is doubling for a retaining wall. Now you have lateral forces from the soil acting in multiple directions. The footer needs to be robust. Better to be over designed and over built than to have to deal with cracked and possibly a wall failure later. Now that would expensive. Added note...I believe keyways should be required in all foundations. They will prevent movement due to cold joints.
This is awesome! I'm so glad that your back to doing more videos!
Think about radiant heat in the floor and running dust collection under the slab.👍🏝️🇨🇦
Looking great Travis! We’ll see you, in the next one.
Prob too late, but I think an RV garage door would be a better choice. With that long private driveway a new owner would want to park an RV in that beautiful garage. Just a thought. Beautiful work so far btw.
Did you tile around the foundation to keep water out since grade is higher than floor?
Hey, just wanted to ask if you have an opinion on the AnkerMake M5C for a first budget 3D printer, as far a the unit itself, the software and the slicer.
I’ve been looking forward to this since you first announced it!
This is so fascinating! Thanks for sharing all of this. Those big machines are so cool.
Great series - loving it. From the UK.
I lived around Dayton. I remember that was the first place I encountered Radon mitigation. Do they require that for a shop, is it strictly classified as a garage?
Ya can’t run or hide from who’s coming , you will be present TRUTH 🌝
Sick dude, it’s starting to get real
As an IT infrastructure guy, I hope you ran multiple runs of Cat6 and left a pull string in there as well. I'm with you though on preferring overbuilt vs. underbuilt. Cool series, will keep a lookout for more videos on this.
Whats Cat6? I'm thinking of building something similar to this video.
@@XannDaMann Cat6 is Ethernet Cable (hard wired Internet)
@@robertrodriguez3202 ah okay! thank you!
Disagree. He should be running fiber. Then he's got complete and total electrical isolation between the house and the shop. Fiber is inexpensive, easy to pull, and easy to terminate.
@@XannDaMann What @robertrodriguez3202 said. IF you need internet / network connectivity in your new space (e.g. cameras, TVs, Wi-Fi etc.), I encourage running Cat6E (Category 6E) (Cat7 is available but overkill for home applications) It is low voltage wiring with 4 pairs of wires in a common sheath. The pairs are twisted to reduce interference.
You do wireless if what you're building is close enough to existing Wi-Fi coverage. Today's Wi-Fi extenders are pretty decent. But wired is superior. It's not expensive. The conduit and labor (if hired out) would probably cost more than the Cat6E. 1000ft. of it is less than $150 on amazon.
Caveat: If the new space is further than about 300 ft / 100 meters from home router you'd have to consider fiber-optic which is more involved.
Foundationally this is good.
Love the networking conduit. Do yourself a favor and run OM-3 fiber as well.
That is going to be an awesome shop.
Great job!
I’m just wondering about that form oil spray, does that affect the bond from the footer to the wall? Because it seem like it got on the footer.
Plus the pink ridgid foam, Is it me or could’ve done a better job of installing it? It just seemed like a halfhearted job, for something that is so simple and does it take much skill to do. But yeah no tape on the seams, there’s gaps (especially at the corners) for such an unskilled job, It should’ve been talking seriously.
And yes “I know we live in America” but can we have just a little pride in our work, like the Japanese, or the Swedish or Germans?
those footer are INSANE. The cost of that concrete alone is worth more than my entire shop
All I am doing is pulling a new separate service to my shop and I am already annoyed by the process and timeline. I cannot imagine how much effort and headache this project is. But man oh man does it seem like it’s going to be totally worth it!
I can not imagine how much this coast.
Shop shades FTW
Wait your in Dayton? That’s cool. Me too
The size of the foundation is because that wall is going to be holding back soil. And most likely, soil that probably contains clay,, or soil that can easily shift, or a lot of water that could freeze.
The underground gun vault walls for our new house will be 18" thick with a 36" footer that will be 5' deep. 10' high walls with a 12" cap. shouldn't go anywhere. Overbuilt is underrated!
Oh Boy another Rube....Footings is the Proper Word!
look at all dem hwite bois! done right
3:29 you should’ve said very mindful very demure 😂
This is clearly a case of the engineer saying “I don’t have time to do the calcs so just build “this” and you’ll be fine and I won’t get sued”. I can’t imagine what terrible soil conditions would warrant a foundation like this.
That motorcycle segment was INTENSE!!!! 🔥🔥🔥🔥
How to know you're on the right path in life: "Most insane thing I've ever done on a residential job."
For some reason your videos remind me of the king of random
I’m going with a head case. Lol. Great vlog!
IT guy here. Don’t pull Ethernet use fiber instead. You aren’t going a huge distance so multimode fiber is fine. Media converters will work, but get switches with SFP jacks instead.
Team with a lot of experience???.!!!
But the spay the formwork with oil and the rebar installed inside of the formwork! I am pretty sure that the spray the formwork so concrete doesn't stick to the formwork, but what about the oil on the rebar??😂😂😂😂
Dang I saw a parked Escalade! Then you got this amazing shop being built. I'm happy you're seeing such success. Congrats Travis!
@7:04 DJI osmo - best action camera
I would have done something like this, but also gone for silica-fume high PSI concrete.. because why not, a bit of additional cost but will last forever and handle loads.
Suggest running fiber between the house and shop so that the 2 ends are electrically isolated. You know, lightning strikes and stuff.
My 820 sq ft shop doesn't have anything like that for a foundation. I think my footers were a foot wide by 10 inches deep or possibly the other way around.
FOAM INSULATION IS IDEALLY PLACED EXTERIOR OF THE FOUNDATION WALL - SEE GREEN BUILDING ADVISORS OR THE BUILD SHOW W/ MATT RIESINGER
Forms should have been sprayed or waxed BEFORE erecting. You don’t want oil dripping or over sprayed onto fresh concrete below as it can prevent bonding with the new wall.
If you think the foundations are over engineered get a calculator and pen and prove it with calculations. That garage is the size of an average house and the retaining wall / foundations looks to be about right for what it is retaining and a lot depends on the soil bearing capacity too. Im in engineering and have seen a lot of these. You will never regret overbuilt.
I trust the concrete crew that does this every day. Total overbuild
you live in a beautiful part of the country!
might be overbuilt in the US, but this is quite standard for Europe. except for the fact, that in poured-in-place retaining walls, you don't only have upright rebar placed in the middle (judging by the shots about a feet apart), but there are 2 rows of these running alongside the form on each side, about and inch from the boards, spaced (based on project requirements / statics plans) 7-10 inches, interlocked by horizontally tied rebar once again, every 7-10 inch apart. also, spraying board oil like on the video once the forms are all set up and rebar's placed isn't a good idea, as the spray will not only stick to the boards, but to the rebar as well, which then means the concrete can't bond properly to the rebar. better (or should I say proper) practice is applying the oil with a roller, while still laying flat, before setting up.
You should run that cat 5 cable now, not just the PVC.
Because in USA you build home with wood maybe is the reason you think is overkill, but in Europe is normal because home made with concrete or block .
Did I miss vibrating the concrete during the wall pour?
Finally doing the foundation properly. Your comment about being overbuilt is so wrong. It meets requirements but is not overbuilt by a long shot, as a structural engineer I know. Glad to see they are doing things right and is so typical, nothing goes as planned and proper planning means you should expect delays. I would suggest that you make the header for the door so it could be changed at a later date for a two car garage door or a space for a second garage door (simple to do and won't cost you much now but could save you (or the next owner) a small fortune if you desire it. Good luck on this venture.
May I ask you to talk about how you chose your contractor, please?
I would’ve run some troughs in the foundation for dust collection and electrical.
you should always overkill, so to speak, you have to think about loads lateral and otherwise as well as weaknesses and unforseen vulnerability. overdesigning foundations is always a great idea, can make a huge difference in even of any natural disasters or unforseen things.
I knew a concrete guy and he said too many people cheap out on their foundations and regret it later.
I know exactly how you feel about the over engineered wall's as when I was building my shop I have a section of the slab that's 4 foot thick 🤯🤔, this was due to the fact that whilst digging out for the foundations I actually had water flowing into the area of the top right corner of the foundations and it was because I hit a Natural Spring 🫣😳. Water just kept on coming and coming out of the ground and flooding out my slab area. The only way to stop it was to put a marine type pour of concrete that was basically "Waterproof " not only Waterproof concrete but I also have an aray of "French drains" crisscrossing the entire slab area. I could have cried as it was a nightmare to deal with, not to mention the extra delays in all area's and the cost basically tripled in price for the concrete pour. That said I have not seen a single bubbling of water coming from my ground or had any moisture issues in my workshop whatsoever in the past 3 yrs of the shop being built🧐.
As alway's buddy 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
The video quality here is out of this world. I hope people appreciate the time and effort that goes into putting something like this together. Can't wait to see the rest!
Looking good.
Looking good!
Did I miss the rebar going into the walls from the footers? It’s all free floating and no mechanical connection besides the keyway? 😮
Yes, didn't show that part, definitely have rebar tiing into the footers
Spray concrete forms with diesel or kerosene. Locally that is what is used. I’m surprised you didn’t use ifc for the retaining wall.
Nice rogue shirt, didn’t expect to see that here. Two of my interests overlapping
If you think this is an overkill, you need to visit Oman. We put far much more concrete than that.
I’m surprised you got a permit t build that.
15:38 you could have had my wife do this line for you. She says that to me all the time 😢
Your supposed to spray the forms before putting them up so you don't get oil on your foundation. Could cause a weak joint having oil in the key.
Most homes, “I’m only living here for a few years, why should it be built to last?”
no outside wall tar or such ?? why??
In any job, for max efficiency : preparation is key 😉
Dont let this shop build interrupt football watchin time in the smaller mancave shop ✊
FYI normally the oil is vegie oil not mineral oil like old engine oil or such.