I used to do this work and you are correct that electric sanders leave lots of low spots. You are right in choosing a piece of board but the ideal would be a board of 2-3 foot long and use double sided tape to stick sandpaper (on a roll) to the board use progressing grades of sandpaper 👍😁
@@user-xw6wj2qh5n the paintwork needed definitely comes into the ‘project’ category! 😂 Keep an eye on UA-cam as the next video will be available to view from 3pm today…
The high speed, fast forward dog made me laugh! As did the breakfast bap that was bigger than your head!! Thanks for the mention “it’s gone all lumpy”!
G'day Years ago I worked in the smash repair industry and the best advice I can give you is to give the primer a guide coat (mist a darker colour from a pressurs pack). Sand back with a large block this will show up all the low and high spots. Even guide coat the final primer coat. All the best from OZ....🦘🦘🦘
A lot of hard graft there Peter. A clear reminder of why I had somone else do my repaint for me. Keep up the good work. As someone suggested, a fairing compound for tge final filling. I watch a lot of boat restorations and it seems to be the norm.
@@peterclarkson7317 I’d like someone else to do this for me! 😁 Going to look at these compound fairings, see whether we can use one. Although the sanding and filling is now pretty much done… (hopefully!).
It might be worth thinking about using a Fairing Compound for the final coat of filler, It's very very fine and sorts out all the tiny imperfections.....😎😎
Use a clean piece of cardboard for every single mix of filler as it will react and harden quickly with the old stuff on the underneath good work keep it up
@@modularhippo ironically did a bit more filling and sanding today, but then had to wait til this evening to get paint on as it was too sunny / hot to paint earlier - having waited weeks for the rain to stop! 😂
nice one guys.you will soon have it cracked,, glad our paths crossed yesterday and was a pleasure chatting with you,, like i said, a DA sander would have made the old paintwok flatter from the start but, you work with what ya got mate,, not happy you got my mate franks boat in shot instead of mine lol cheers guys ron,,
@@ronhaywood2375 you should have got Ron to moor in front of you! 😂 Yes an ideal world we’d be inside using some more appropriate tools, but when life gives us lemons we try to make that lemonade! Nice to chat to you. Our paths may cross again in the future. 😃
I realize I am going against the advice to sand to a perfectly flat surface but, given the age of the boat, along with dents and things that were screwed to the boat exterior in the past, I recommend using an orbital electric sander with 100 grit sandpaper to ease the prep work. Additionally, buy a filler applicator set with multiple sizes if you don't already have one. At this point, you want to spread just enough filler to fill the imperfections in order to minimize sanding. Just before applying the top coat, use 220 grit sandpaper.
If you fog dark spray can paint on the surface (guidecoat). You'll see alot lot more during sanding. Lay your primer on heavy. Your paint is only as good as your prepped surface. Doing great!
You're doing a grand job. I'm in he same boat, so to speak. I'm having to treat the rust and fill the pits. Then oxide primer, and liked the grey so much i decided that would be my top coat colour. So i am painting it with Sandtex masonary paint(slate grey). £28 for 10 litres, Bargain
I've really enjoyed watching your progress as myself & my son will be tackling this job next year & seeing you make it look easy is giving me confidence . Which purdy brush did you get for the final coat?
I think it's the Purdy Excel off the top of my head. There is a link to it in the description of the video and the next episode (hopefully starting to film tomorrow) we will run through the stuff we are using. :)
I have just finished refurbing an oil tank. In the heat I could not believe how fast I had to get the primer and paint on in the heat. Hopefully you will get dry, moderate temperature days with light cloud and not too many &%&%% insects buzzing around
Hi I see your using P38 that is so hard to sand you need to try uPol big easy one its so easy to sand and more flexible also for fine filling use dolphin glaze again easy to sand down and very fine and flexible I use these products a lot on classic car restoration give them a try you will realise how much easier the work will be
We have almost finished with the filler on this re paint - BUT I have a T4 campervan to get to work on shortly and there's PLENTY of rust / bodywork to deal with on that so I'll bear your recommendations in mind - thank you.
Fiberglass filler should be use in different smoothness they come like that one for bulk and a finer one for smoothing off if you just use the bulk filler and keep sanding it back you make an uneven surface that's what needs the fine filler . That's how people get perfect finnish in car body's with filler and they get a perfect result
Have a look at a paint Pelican from Screwfix. I used one when I painted my boat and it was the best bit of equipment. You are never going to get a fantastic finish painting out in the elements, just aim for a finish you can live with and spend more time boating.😂
@@philelliott5327 indeed… that’s the balance - we don’t want to look back in 6 months and think ‘if only we’d done a better job’ but likewise we don’t expect to get a ‘perfect’ finish out here on the canal.
Keep at it guys. It will be worth it in the end!
Thank you!
I used to do this work and you are correct that electric sanders leave lots of low spots. You are right in choosing a piece of board but the ideal would be a board of 2-3 foot long and use double sided tape to stick sandpaper (on a roll) to the board use progressing grades of sandpaper 👍😁
@@charlespacker1583 thanks for the advice - I will look at using a larger board for the final prep. Thank you.
Good shout Charles 👏👏
Wow, a big project going on there. Wait, it's not a project. What's another word for project?... Ah heck, it's a project.
@@user-xw6wj2qh5n the paintwork needed definitely comes into the ‘project’ category! 😂
Keep an eye on UA-cam as the next video will be available to view from 3pm today…
It's lovely to see you are doing a completely professional job on this taking your time and doing it right proud of you both
@@jackbamford1787 thank you! 😁
It’s actually interesting watching your paint dry!!.😃👏🌟🌟 Joan
@@grahamlewis6062 Thankyou Joan - hopefully we are keeping as interesting as possible!
The high speed, fast forward dog made me laugh! As did the breakfast bap that was bigger than your head!!
Thanks for the mention “it’s gone all lumpy”!
I didn’t even notice the dog until I’d edited and uploaded it and then watched it back!
Everyone needs a good breakfast in them! 😂
Perfect finish
Thank you.
G'day
Years ago I worked in the smash repair industry and the best advice I can give you is to give the primer a guide coat (mist a darker colour from a pressurs pack). Sand back with a large block this will show up all the low and high spots. Even guide coat the final primer coat. All the best from OZ....🦘🦘🦘
@@paularksey1963 G’day! Cheers for the advice. 😃
I was filling and sanding my boat yesterday in that heat. Only got one side sanded so got to get on it today.
@@Jax240jk it’s not fun sanding (or doing anything!) when it’s hot! 🥵
A lot of hard graft there Peter. A clear reminder of why I had somone else do my repaint for me.
Keep up the good work. As someone suggested, a fairing compound for tge final filling. I watch a lot of boat restorations and it seems to be the norm.
@@peterclarkson7317 I’d like someone else to do this for me! 😁
Going to look at these compound fairings, see whether we can use one. Although the sanding and filling is now pretty much done… (hopefully!).
It might be worth thinking about using a Fairing Compound for the final coat of filler, It's very very fine and sorts out all the tiny imperfections.....😎😎
@@chrisallen1965 Thankyou. Will look into that. 😁
i really feel for you ...after doing my boat i never want to do it again.. cant beat a purdey brush!!!
@@crossercuss1 each time I’ve painted a boat I’ve said “never again” - but trying to do this one ‘properly’ is a whole new level as well! 😁
Use a clean piece of cardboard for every single mix of filler as it will react and harden quickly with the old stuff on the underneath good work keep it up
@@julietwigg9806 yes the ‘mixing board’ was a bit last minute, so just had to use what we had knocking around…
The prannocks are back!
@@ProTroll_UK do I need to google prannock? 🤔😂😂😂
@@WingingItBoatingonaBudget 😂
Lovely job Love it keep it up 🍻🍻
@@paulwilson5384 thank you.
Better make the most of it while the sun is out:) Allot of work but good feeling once done:)
@@modularhippo ironically did a bit more filling and sanding today, but then had to wait til this evening to get paint on as it was too sunny / hot to paint earlier - having waited weeks for the rain to stop! 😂
nice one guys.you will soon have it cracked,, glad our paths crossed yesterday and was a pleasure chatting with you,, like i said, a DA sander would have made the old paintwok flatter from the start but, you work with what ya got mate,, not happy you got my mate franks boat in shot instead of mine lol cheers guys ron,,
@@ronhaywood2375 you should have got Ron to moor in front of you! 😂
Yes an ideal world we’d be inside using some more appropriate tools, but when life gives us lemons we try to make that lemonade!
Nice to chat to you. Our paths may cross again in the future. 😃
I realize I am going against the advice to sand to a perfectly flat surface but, given the age of the boat, along with dents and things that were screwed to the boat exterior in the past, I recommend using an orbital electric sander with 100 grit sandpaper to ease the prep work. Additionally, buy a filler applicator set with multiple sizes if you don't already have one. At this point, you want to spread just enough filler to fill the imperfections in order to minimize sanding. Just before applying the top coat, use 220 grit sandpaper.
If you fog dark spray can paint on the surface (guidecoat). You'll see alot lot more during sanding. Lay your primer on heavy. Your paint is only as good as your prepped surface. Doing great!
@@tinkeringwithmark1186 thank you 😁
And use a high density foam roller for less bubbles
@@julietwigg9806 we are trying different rollers to see what’s best… 😃
👌👍
@@Dore60 😁
You're doing a grand job. I'm in he same boat, so to speak. I'm having to treat the rust and fill the pits. Then oxide primer, and liked the grey so much i decided that would be my top coat colour. So i am painting it with Sandtex masonary paint(slate grey). £28 for 10 litres, Bargain
@@TheFoolishboy9 I’ve seen other people use similar paints and get decent results.
I've really enjoyed watching your progress as myself & my son will be tackling this job next year & seeing you make it look easy is giving me confidence . Which purdy brush did you get for the final coat?
I think it's the Purdy Excel off the top of my head. There is a link to it in the description of the video and the next episode (hopefully starting to film tomorrow) we will run through the stuff we are using. :)
I have just finished refurbing an oil tank. In the heat I could not believe how fast I had to get the primer and paint on in the heat. Hopefully you will get dry, moderate temperature days with light cloud and not too many &%&%% insects buzzing around
@@nim3od That’s the tricky thing to working outdoors - getting the right conditions is ‘almost impossible’.
Hi I see your using P38 that is so hard to sand you need to try uPol big easy one its so easy to sand and more flexible also for fine filling use dolphin glaze again easy to sand down and very fine and flexible I use these products a lot on classic car restoration give them a try you will realise how much easier the work will be
We have almost finished with the filler on this re paint - BUT I have a T4 campervan to get to work on shortly and there's PLENTY of rust / bodywork to deal with on that so I'll bear your recommendations in mind - thank you.
Fiberglass filler should be use in different smoothness they come like that one for bulk and a finer one for smoothing off if you just use the bulk filler and keep sanding it back you make an uneven surface that's what needs the fine filler . That's how people get perfect finnish in car body's with filler and they get a perfect result
@@Narrowboat.and.offgrid.living I believe the P40 is the base coat for deep repairs and the P38 we are using is for the final fill and sand? 🤔
Have a look at a paint Pelican from Screwfix. I used one when I painted my boat and it was the best bit of equipment. You are never going to get a fantastic finish painting out in the elements, just aim for a finish you can live with and spend more time boating.😂
@@philelliott5327 indeed… that’s the balance - we don’t want to look back in 6 months and think ‘if only we’d done a better job’ but likewise we don’t expect to get a ‘perfect’ finish out here on the canal.