I removed the hinged tabernacle that I fabricated a few years ago, but I may try an A-frame type system sometime in the future. There are some good instructions if you google “A do-it-yourself kit for raising your c27 mast”.
Thanks for the video. I plan on cutter rigging my Tom Gilmer Designed Roughwater 33 double ender with a removable inner forestay for the staysail. I have been trying to find consensus on the forums as to how heavy duty the reinforcement for the forestay fitting should be. Opinions vary wildly, from just a good backing plate to having to tie the deck into the hull sides with fiberglassed in supports etc... My boat is one of those overglassed heavy builds from the early 80's. The Deck is over an inch and a quarter thick, 1/4 inch of glass, 3/4" marine ply and another 1/4" of glass. I had thought about glassing in a solid teak knee joining the area of the deck where the forestay fitting will be down to the stem, but I wonder if thats really neccesary.
Thanks for watching. It would be hard to comment on your install without seeing it, but in short, your attachment will depend on what kind of load you are anticipating.
So, the installation is straightforward but how do you prevent your foredeck from flexing under the heavy loads imposed by a storm sail flown in excessive winds? The backing plates give support to your connections but do not prevent flexing of the deck. Normally, a tie rod would be used to spread the loads imposed on the foredeck. Can you explain? Thanks
The foredeck is 1 inch thick. Some flexing is to be expected, but not problematic. This is not an atypical installation for a smaller boat. In any case, read the description of the video. This is a video documentation of my boat’s refit, not instructional DIY.
Nice solid backing plates!
Excellent *** great detail please keep the detail so I may try some of this stuff *** I will need a video when you raise the mast
I removed the hinged tabernacle that I fabricated a few years ago, but I may try an A-frame type system sometime in the future. There are some good instructions if you google “A do-it-yourself kit for raising your c27 mast”.
Thanks for the video. I plan on cutter rigging my Tom Gilmer Designed Roughwater 33 double ender with a removable inner forestay for the staysail. I have been trying to find consensus on the forums as to how heavy duty the reinforcement for the forestay fitting should be. Opinions vary wildly, from just a good backing plate to having to tie the deck into the hull sides with fiberglassed in supports etc...
My boat is one of those overglassed heavy builds from the early 80's. The Deck is over an inch and a quarter thick, 1/4 inch of glass, 3/4" marine ply and another 1/4" of glass. I had thought about glassing in a solid teak knee joining the area of the deck where the forestay fitting will be down to the stem, but I wonder if thats really neccesary.
Thanks for watching. It would be hard to comment on your install without seeing it, but in short, your attachment will depend on what kind of load you are anticipating.
Hi, I'm very curious how this is holding up so far. Looks much more simple than some other ways of doing this.
Just did it a couple months ago, so I have not used it yet.
So, the installation is straightforward but how do you prevent your foredeck from flexing under the heavy loads imposed by a storm sail flown in excessive winds? The backing plates give support to your connections but do not prevent flexing of the deck. Normally, a tie rod would be used to spread the loads imposed on the foredeck. Can you explain? Thanks
The foredeck is 1 inch thick. Some flexing is to be expected, but not problematic. This is not an atypical installation for a smaller boat.
In any case, read the description of the video. This is a video documentation of my boat’s refit, not instructional DIY.
Wait, you driller larger holes, then fill them with epoxy, and then drill SMALLER holes? How does that work? :)
There is a wood core sandwiched between two layers of fiberglass and the epoxy is to keep water from reaching the wood core and rotting it out.
@@EpoxyAndButylTape Makes total sense! :) Thank you