Great video. I had a chance to build the car Saturday, then take it to race Sunday. On the first pack run through it, it was up to speed. 2nd pack was the first qualify run and it was already running on pace. I installed the Ensotech 3500 in the car, setup for SuperStock. I needed to chamfer the pod slightly to ease installation (didnt want to damage the pod by forcing it). CT said that they will make a running change, and will have the chamfer moving forward. That Ensotech 3500 is a beast of a motor though. Mine failed Tech for SuperStock, which at the track I was testing had a 3800 limit and the motor I had ran 3850 out of the bag so I was DQ'd. I ran with the brass side link adapter, and felt that the balance was near perfect with Marka 05 rear, and PN KS Medium low height in front. I adjusted ride height to about 2.2mm in front, and 2.5mm in rear since the track I was running is a bit bumpy. I felt that I could go a bit lower, as there was no chatter with the car which I would normally get on the GLR over some of the bumps. I used GL sensored ESC, servo mounted on left side with ESC behind it (top cover removed, and mounted on 2x servo tape to allow access to button/plugs above the servo). RX was mounted on right side. Overall a super tight, centralized layout for electronics. If there was 1mm more clearance, then the cover could stay on the ESC. Overall, I really like the car. With just a bench build I was equal or faster than my regular SS car. Going to build the modified RX28 this weekend.
I’m running a Glr gt and recently bought the 505 kit. How many shims would you recommend putting on the pod pivot ball? I currently have 1 on now and I don’t wanna put it all back together and find out I should have done something different.
Thank you. Do you know why the GT isn’t that great out of the box? I’m guessing it has to do with the weird rear shock set up. At least that’s what I read.
The instructions are a recommendation of the amount of shims, however, every chassis may have slight variance since there are multiple parts with tolerances at play. What I do to figure out the amount of shims, I attach one side link to chassis and pod balls. Then pop the center pivot ball into the cup. The link not attached you can install to the to the pod or the chassis, but one side should have the ball in the link, but not screwed in. Then you line it up with the screw hole, and can visually see if it lines up. If the holes align, then shimming is correct. If the link appears too short, remove shim. If the link appears too long, then add a shim. I find that on average, .2-.4mm is the amount of shimming needed, but can change depending on the chassis used. I typically like the link to be ever slightly on the long side rather than short. As the pod articulates, the links shorten slightly. So if the links are already on the shorter side, it will restrict movement. This is the same as for the GLR. When I change the chassis deck, I often need to change my pivot spacing. This is one big advantage for the RX28 and ATM MRZ, in that the pivot doesnt sit in a cup, rather a slot, so the longitudinal spacing does not effect how free the pod is. If using the standard chassis link mounts (plastic battery compartment), ensure that they are installed straight. The plastic adapters have a tendency to rotate as they are screwed in, and it will angle the pod if the adapters are not held in place as the screws are tensioned. The RX505 solves multiple issues with the GT. One, it replaces the side link ball stud adapters with the carbon battery compartment. This removes the ability for the adapters to twist as installing or in a collision. Second, it removes the leveraged damper pivot, which allows the pod to have a linear centering force regardless of the pitch of the pod. With the standard GT configuration, the lateral spring is variable depending on the location of the ball in the slot of the shock pivot. When the car squats (under acceleration), the centering force increases. When the pod droops (off throttle), centering forces decrease and the pod will roll easier. So, the RX505 removes the dynamic effect of centering based on the pitch of the pod, and places the spring vertically directly in line with the articulation of pod. It also separates the spring from damper, which allows maintenance or tuning of the damper to be done quicker and easier without effecting the tweak setpoint of the side springs.
Those screw to tighten balls on the bottom are to short and one side of the whole should not have threads imo to get it to pull tighter bc it straps out immediately. machinist mindset I guess
Eeeehhhh... I have a couple of those. I would have to disagree. Out of the box this car is dialed. No weird steering binding or need to swap out parts from a completely different car to get it right. Brass chassis in the box... RTA is good man but it takes some fiddle to get right also the RTA is in it's what... 3rd revision right now? This car is new... 1st revision and it's track ready.
Overly complicated compared to the RTA. RTA is a joy to work on. Completely frustration free. I've seen 3 wheels fly off of the RX in races so far. It's not a bad car, definitely better than Atomic and GL chassis.
We are absolutely loving our RX28. Such a sick car.
Great video. I had a chance to build the car Saturday, then take it to race Sunday. On the first pack run through it, it was up to speed. 2nd pack was the first qualify run and it was already running on pace.
I installed the Ensotech 3500 in the car, setup for SuperStock. I needed to chamfer the pod slightly to ease installation (didnt want to damage the pod by forcing it). CT said that they will make a running change, and will have the chamfer moving forward. That Ensotech 3500 is a beast of a motor though. Mine failed Tech for SuperStock, which at the track I was testing had a 3800 limit and the motor I had ran 3850 out of the bag so I was DQ'd.
I ran with the brass side link adapter, and felt that the balance was near perfect with Marka 05 rear, and PN KS Medium low height in front. I adjusted ride height to about 2.2mm in front, and 2.5mm in rear since the track I was running is a bit bumpy. I felt that I could go a bit lower, as there was no chatter with the car which I would normally get on the GLR over some of the bumps.
I used GL sensored ESC, servo mounted on left side with ESC behind it (top cover removed, and mounted on 2x servo tape to allow access to button/plugs above the servo). RX was mounted on right side. Overall a super tight, centralized layout for electronics. If there was 1mm more clearance, then the cover could stay on the ESC.
Overall, I really like the car. With just a bench build I was equal or faster than my regular SS car. Going to build the modified RX28 this weekend.
Wow that was awesome, looking at getting this kit and after watching your video, looks like I’ll definitely be getting one.
That Pan Car looks like a rocket ship!
You've definitely gotten better as a driver.
Thanks!!
Triple Duces!
Looking good... 👍
Nice, looks real good sir, have you tried a little more drag brake for your pan ?
Not yet but that's next on the list. I was pressing to get footage for the video and get outta there that day lol.
@@BASHERSUNITED I know that feeling lol.
So in super stock it’s +3 rear and +1 front? Thanks for the update Video and keep it up!!
If you normally run +2 in the front then yes. Thanks!!
I went back and listened again thanks
I’m running a Glr gt and recently bought the 505 kit. How many shims would you recommend putting on the pod pivot ball? I currently have 1 on now and I don’t wanna put it all back together and find out I should have done something different.
I am running whatever was recommended in the install instructions. I'll take a look and let you know in a few.
Thank you. Do you know why the GT isn’t that great out of the box? I’m guessing it has to do with the weird rear shock set up. At least that’s what I read.
That's the issue. The 505 fixes that. Makes the car a ton more manageable.
The instructions are a recommendation of the amount of shims, however, every chassis may have slight variance since there are multiple parts with tolerances at play.
What I do to figure out the amount of shims, I attach one side link to chassis and pod balls. Then pop the center pivot ball into the cup. The link not attached you can install to the to the pod or the chassis, but one side should have the ball in the link, but not screwed in. Then you line it up with the screw hole, and can visually see if it lines up. If the holes align, then shimming is correct. If the link appears too short, remove shim. If the link appears too long, then add a shim. I find that on average, .2-.4mm is the amount of shimming needed, but can change depending on the chassis used. I typically like the link to be ever slightly on the long side rather than short. As the pod articulates, the links shorten slightly. So if the links are already on the shorter side, it will restrict movement.
This is the same as for the GLR. When I change the chassis deck, I often need to change my pivot spacing. This is one big advantage for the RX28 and ATM MRZ, in that the pivot doesnt sit in a cup, rather a slot, so the longitudinal spacing does not effect how free the pod is.
If using the standard chassis link mounts (plastic battery compartment), ensure that they are installed straight. The plastic adapters have a tendency to rotate as they are screwed in, and it will angle the pod if the adapters are not held in place as the screws are tensioned.
The RX505 solves multiple issues with the GT. One, it replaces the side link ball stud adapters with the carbon battery compartment. This removes the ability for the adapters to twist as installing or in a collision. Second, it removes the leveraged damper pivot, which allows the pod to have a linear centering force regardless of the pitch of the pod. With the standard GT configuration, the lateral spring is variable depending on the location of the ball in the slot of the shock pivot. When the car squats (under acceleration), the centering force increases. When the pod droops (off throttle), centering forces decrease and the pod will roll easier. So, the RX505 removes the dynamic effect of centering based on the pitch of the pod, and places the spring vertically directly in line with the articulation of pod. It also separates the spring from damper, which allows maintenance or tuning of the damper to be done quicker and easier without effecting the tweak setpoint of the side springs.
I'm new to the whole mini scene I heard they're making a car more for beginners I will like to pick one up when they do
There are plenty of cars out now. Do you know who makes it?
Looks fast af
Those screw to tighten balls on the bottom are to short and one side of the whole should not have threads imo to get it to pull tighter bc it straps out immediately. machinist mindset I guess
I don't think they're meant to pull the 2 halves together. The screw in the hole puts pressure on the ball. Mine aren't going all the way through.
RTA kills it!
Eeeehhhh... I have a couple of those. I would have to disagree. Out of the box this car is dialed. No weird steering binding or need to swap out parts from a completely different car to get it right. Brass chassis in the box... RTA is good man but it takes some fiddle to get right also the RTA is in it's what... 3rd revision right now? This car is new... 1st revision and it's track ready.
Overly complicated compared to the RTA. RTA is a joy to work on. Completely frustration free. I've seen 3 wheels fly off of the RX in races so far. It's not a bad car, definitely better than Atomic and GL chassis.
Yeah but you do have to work on it quite a bit. Plus the steering rack sucks... It just sucks.