My uncle had an ‘83 CJ7 on his ranch near Corona, NM that he would let us use to hunt mule deer and pronghorn. As you pointed out, the frame began to rust since it was rarely power washed. He gave the Jeep to my cousin and she had a frame off restoration done and the frame powder coated. She now power washes the Jeep whenever she uses. It’s still used to hunt mulies and pronghorn by her kids.
The 1976 - 83 CJ5 and 1976 - 86 CJ7 and CJ8’s all had the boxed chassis . Although this was supposed to be an improved design , it brought the beginning of the internal destruction which got worse as all YJ and TJ wrangler owners are all too familiar with . The 1972 - 75 and earlier channel iron design was at least more accessible , albeit a few welded plates for flex support . Yes , it’s easier to recondition the earlier chassis although they’ve got their issues but all have the same enemy , road dirt , acid rain , calcium chloride , etc. . Glad you’ve pointed out that not only is it important to clean corrosion and rust coat preventative applied to the external surface , but equally important to address internal surfaces . It’s always as to whether a chassis rots from the outside in or inside out . We get our pressure washers and do our best , car wash undercarriage washes and garden hoses but the only way to preserve for longevity as you’ve done ( twice now ) is to recondition and apply an anti-corrosive coating . Sure , you can buy a new body tub , new fenders hood and grille . But finding a replacement chassis is getting harder everyday . You can find someone who makes new chassis but that’s a kings ransom . A house is only as good as the foundation it sits on , a Jeep ( or any vehicle;e ) is no exception . Your rolling chassis is almost done , good show ! For a guy who has taken on his second restoration project with minimal experience and kick in’ butt , you’ve shown that a regular guy or girl can do it too . Save the CJ5 , CJ7 and CJ8 as well as earlier model Jeeps . Your videos inspire . I hope more folks get the inclination to follow . These Jeeps started the off road sport , they deserve to be preserved .
Thank you. Your videos have been a huge help. Im restoring a 76 cj7 in my garage/back yard. Frame cleanup is coming up soon. Currently getting the dash and wiring disassembled.
Thought I'd give you my experience with a 1984 cj7 frame,you mentioned no paint inside? I'm in c t rusted out frames are common .i had a california frame from wrecking yard shipped to me,to my amazement,it was still pristine!only had some shallow pitting under rubber body mounts,guess washing and rain collected here.i had fear of rust again so brought frame ( after sand blasting at home) to get hotdipped galvanized,the tech looked it over and saw black paint through holes ,we figured it was just overspray,week later I picked it up,and tech shows me galv didn't stick to inside at all,seems factory must dip when new,but after new england winter's we don't see see any paint inside just flash rust.so long story..he proposed redipping. For longer period to let heat lift paint,we did and now its galv but lumpy inside.so maybe they do dip entire frame on all of them.
It is kind of ridiculous to have a showroom looking frame and under carriage. No one ever sees it except if you're selling. But like I said in the video, I have full intentions of never having rust on this CJ and will go to whatever lengths I need to make sure that happens.
Nevermind, asked too early lol. I am currently working on my 1978 CJ7. I stripped it down and currently built a pool and performing electrolysis on the chassis. See how it works out.
@@coolguy_CJ7 Yep, that's it. When I talked to RC, they don't have them and oddly say for their shock it is not needed. Seem counter intuitive, but as I look around now at modified Jeeps (when you start doing a restoration you seem to start noticing everything on other Jeeps), it look likes a lot of manufactures don't do them now. RC said their seals keep dirt out so not needed, and I guess it is easy to wash down if you get muddy. Makes no sense to me. Love the channel! On mine, we have the tub and motor back on and hooking stuff up!
I actually think the rubber covers are just for visual effects. They wind up breaking and cracking pretty quickly. I will probably have to remove mine in a year or so. Just keep the piston rod clean and we should all be good. :)
How is the chassis saver holding up? I’ve been thinking about using an epoxy primer before the chassis saver. So many mixed reviews.I’ve had my frame sand blasted.
No issues so far. The sandblasting will give the Chassis Saver something to grip to. It doesn’t do well with smooth metal. You can use an epoxy primer if you like, but it won’t help with adhesion or rust prevention. The Chassis Saver is built to accomplish all of that by itself.
@@coolguy_CJ7 ok. I just got my frame back from blaster. I’ll email you a picture. In my head I thought it would be smooth metal after blasting. But the surface of the frame after being blasted is almost like a 80grit sandpaper. Seems like a good Surface for chassis saver to bite.
@@jayshytle That is exactly what to expect from media blasting. They probably used either a red garnet or a aluminum oxide (possibly crushed glass) media which has a hard tooth to it and doesn't heat the metal up very much. It also gets all of the extras (rust, paint, dirt) out of the steel. You don't want a smooth metal surface like you will get with glass beads. Primer, paint, sealant all have a hard time adhering to a surface like that.
About a quart and a half. Paint brush for the tight areas. Rollerbrush for everywhere else. Makes a really nice finish. No need to prime. The chassis saver needs the metal to bond to to create the seal. Then spray a coat of semigloss black on it and you're good to go.
Nope. I just made sure that I really cleaned out the inside and then used a lot of the internal frame treatment paint. You could add some holes but they would need to be strategically placed and fairly large. I would recommend treating your frame properly and rinse it out when you go off-roading.
@@coolguy_CJ7 I have a cj5 that I might be putting a lift kit on but I do want the original lift pucks on her. Do the daystar kits come with hardware as well as compatible with cj5?
My uncle had an ‘83 CJ7 on his ranch near Corona, NM that he would let us use to hunt mule deer and pronghorn. As you pointed out, the frame began to rust since it was rarely power washed. He gave the Jeep to my cousin and she had a frame off restoration done and the frame powder coated. She now power washes the Jeep whenever she uses. It’s still used to hunt mulies and pronghorn by her kids.
Super cool. Wife grew up in Albuquerque. Love NM.
@@coolguy_CJ7 Small world! Best of luck with everything in the future!
The 1976 - 83 CJ5 and 1976 - 86 CJ7 and CJ8’s all had the boxed chassis . Although this was supposed to be an improved design , it brought the beginning of the internal destruction which got worse as all YJ and TJ wrangler owners are all too familiar with . The 1972 - 75 and earlier channel iron design was at least more accessible , albeit a few welded plates for flex support . Yes , it’s easier to recondition the earlier chassis although they’ve got their issues but all have the same enemy , road dirt , acid rain , calcium chloride , etc. . Glad you’ve pointed out that not only is it important to clean corrosion and rust coat preventative applied to the external surface , but equally important to address internal surfaces .
It’s always as to whether a chassis rots from the outside in or inside out . We get our pressure washers and do our best , car wash undercarriage washes and garden hoses but the only way to preserve for longevity as you’ve done ( twice now ) is to recondition and apply an anti-corrosive coating . Sure , you can buy a new body tub , new fenders hood and grille . But finding a replacement chassis is getting harder everyday .
You can find someone who makes new chassis but that’s a kings ransom . A house is only as good as the foundation it sits on , a Jeep ( or any vehicle;e ) is no exception . Your rolling chassis is almost done , good show ! For a guy who has taken on his second restoration project with minimal experience and kick in’ butt , you’ve shown that a regular guy or girl can do it too . Save the CJ5 , CJ7 and CJ8 as well as earlier model
Jeeps . Your videos inspire . I hope more folks get the inclination to follow . These Jeeps started the off road sport , they deserve to be preserved .
Thanks for this. It's always nice to get good information and compliments on quality and effort of work done.
Glad I found this,. Staring my Scrambler restoration this week. I. Think a plumbing snake will make a better rototiller!
Sounds brilliant. I just went the cheap route. :)
@@coolguy_CJ7 yeah I hear you, spend where you have to, go cheap where you can.
I recently cleaned our dryer vent with a kit from the local hardware store. Modified with your chain idea it should work.
I hope you didn’t clean out your dryer vent with the chain :)
Thank you. Your videos have been a huge help. Im restoring a 76 cj7 in my garage/back yard.
Frame cleanup is coming up soon. Currently getting the dash and wiring disassembled.
Thanks for the feedback. I plan to do a video on the dash wire harness soon. Just as a reference for myself :)
Been watching many of your videos. Got a 76 CJ5 I’m restoring. Fantastic content...well done
Glad to help out. My goal has been to pass on my learnings as i fail my way through a frame up restoration. :)
I love a good c channel frame. Wish they made more c channels.
They did on the CJ5 pre 1977.
Awesome! Preserved mine by power coating. Mine will be keeper in the family too!
That would have to be one huge oven to powdercoat an entire frame. Would've had to turn my whole garage into an Easy Bake Oven to make that work. :)
Just found your channel. Great info. I’m just starting my FJ40 and my M38A1. This is going to be very useful info.
Welcome to the party.
Thanks for the vids....you motivated me to start on my Scrambler restoration.
Love the CJ8. Not enough of them out there.
Thought I'd give you my experience with a 1984 cj7 frame,you mentioned no paint inside? I'm in c t rusted out frames are common .i had a california frame from wrecking yard shipped to me,to my amazement,it was still pristine!only had some shallow pitting under rubber body mounts,guess washing and rain collected here.i had fear of rust again so brought frame ( after sand blasting at home) to get hotdipped galvanized,the tech looked it over and saw black paint through holes ,we figured it was just overspray,week later I picked it up,and tech shows me galv didn't stick to inside at all,seems factory must dip when new,but after new england winter's we don't see see any paint inside just flash rust.so long story..he proposed redipping. For longer period to let heat lift paint,we did and now its galv but lumpy inside.so maybe they do dip entire frame on all of them.
Well done cool guy... the frame looks awesome! I’m looking forward to seeing the next step. Happy New Year
It is kind of ridiculous to have a showroom looking frame and under carriage. No one ever sees it except if you're selling. But like I said in the video, I have full intentions of never having rust on this CJ and will go to whatever lengths I need to make sure that happens.
Any tips on how to patch rust holes on a cj5? Love your vids
Email me at dellis6914@gmail.com with some example picts. I want to
See what we’re dealing with :)
Nevermind, asked too early lol. I am currently working on my 1978 CJ7. I stripped it down and currently built a pool and performing electrolysis on the chassis. See how it works out.
Wow! Super cool. I used electrolysis on so may parts. Just did a brake backer plate. Now doing that to a frame, that's a completely different level.
Can you upload a video of how to replace the steering column bearing?
Are you referring to the bearing that is inside the ignition housing? There is one there and one at the base of the column.
Just noticed, your shocks have a rubber sheath. My replacement rough country shock don’t have those.
Are you talking about the red accordion covers? Those seem to be extras when you buy the shocks. Some brands have them, some don't.
@@coolguy_CJ7 Yep, that's it. When I talked to RC, they don't have them and oddly say for their shock it is not needed. Seem counter intuitive, but as I look around now at modified Jeeps (when you start doing a restoration you seem to start noticing everything on other Jeeps), it look likes a lot of manufactures don't do them now. RC said their seals keep dirt out so not needed, and I guess it is easy to wash down if you get muddy. Makes no sense to me. Love the channel! On mine, we have the tub and motor back on and hooking stuff up!
I actually think the rubber covers are just for visual effects. They wind up breaking and cracking pretty quickly. I will probably have to remove mine in a year or so. Just keep the piston rod clean and we should all be good. :)
How is the chassis saver holding up? I’ve been thinking about using an epoxy primer before the chassis saver. So many mixed reviews.I’ve had my frame sand blasted.
No issues so far. The sandblasting will give the Chassis Saver something to grip to. It doesn’t do well with smooth metal. You can use an epoxy primer if you like, but it won’t help with adhesion or rust prevention. The Chassis Saver is built to accomplish all of that by itself.
@@coolguy_CJ7 ok. I just got my frame back from blaster. I’ll email you a picture. In my head I thought it would be smooth metal after blasting. But the surface of the frame after being blasted is almost like a 80grit sandpaper. Seems like a good Surface for chassis saver to bite.
@@jayshytle That is exactly what to expect from media blasting. They probably used either a red garnet or a aluminum oxide (possibly crushed glass) media which has a hard tooth to it and doesn't heat the metal up very much. It also gets all of the extras (rust, paint, dirt) out of the steel. You don't want a smooth metal surface like you will get with glass beads. Primer, paint, sealant all have a hard time adhering to a surface like that.
@@coolguy_CJ7 did you use satin or gloss black chassis saver ?
@@jayshytle Satin. All frames around this era of time were painted satin (semi-gloss) black. Gloss black looks weird and cheap.
Did you use semi-gloss or gloss on the chassis? Chassis saver. Thanks
Semi gloss. That is the period correct finish for that era. Gloss looks weird.
How much Chassis saver did you use? I don’t want to buy a whole gallon if I don’t need it. Did you prime the frame before applying Chassis Saver?
About a quart and a half. Paint brush for the tight areas. Rollerbrush for everywhere else. Makes a really nice finish. No need to prime. The chassis saver needs the metal to bond to to create the seal. Then spray a coat of semigloss black on it and you're good to go.
Thanks Cool Guy! Much appreciated.
@Andyana Jones I did get a pint just for touch up.
Thanks again 👍🏼
hmmmm i wonder if a modified chimney sweep would also work
It might. You need something that can really batter and breakup the inner rust. Try it and let me know.
Excellent video CG. Did you drill any additional drainage during this process? Is that a bad idea? Thanks!
Nope. I just made sure that I really cleaned out the inside and then used a lot of the internal frame treatment paint. You could add some holes but they would need to be strategically placed and fairly large. I would recommend treating your frame properly and rinse it out when you go off-roading.
Hello, question for you. J85 O9 24 is stamped on my frame. How can I tell the year etc. love the videos.
About how much of the chassis saver did you use on the frame?
About a quart found it thanks!
How did it turn out?
Just subbed too.
What body lift kit did you use in your cj?
No lift kit. Keeping them stock across the board. The body mounts I used were Daystar for the 84 and Prothane for the 79.
@@coolguy_CJ7 I have a cj5 that I might be putting a lift kit on but I do want the original lift pucks on her. Do the daystar kits come with hardware as well as compatible with cj5?
The Daystar set comes with the washers I believe. I went to the hardware store and bought the bolts. Grade 5.