Jerry Moffatt - Mastermind
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- Climbing Nomads
Jerry Moffatt - climbing legend, author of the best selling book Mastermind, and best climber in the world of his generation. Jerry was at the forefront of British (and global) climbing at the time when climbing was seeing some pivotal changes occurring. The advent of repointing, bouldering and sport climbing were all taking place as his climbing career catapulted into the spot light. He's given the UK some of the hardest test pieces on sport, bouldering and trad, and quickly dominated the climbing world with his insight and rapid ascents of the world's hardest climbs.
We had the opportunity to sit down and chat with the legend himself, to talk about his life, his climbing and his book Mastermind.
The book is a great tool for climbers looking to work on the mental aspect of their climbing, and contains contributions from the world's best and strongest climbers.
For your copy of Mastermind, use the link below:
www.v-publishi...
Check out Jerry's autobiography Revelations:
www.v-publishi...
Meeting Ben Moon
Ben Moon at the School Room • Ben Moon at the School...
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#Bouldering #Climbing #VanLifeClimbers
The uk climbing scene should be so proud ofvthis guy
absolute legend
When HVS was hard!
I was exactly the same.
Wanted to climb HVS. Right Unconquerable was the great target route!
We all wanted to be Ron Fawcett, but had no clue whatsoever how to train.
Jerry mentions that the back of his book(which I'm getting shortly) has questions such as "what was your most fun day climbing". Think about this-it was with him in the Gunks in 88. We had loads of fun together for 2 weeks straight. I took him to the hardest routes and we had some super fun raucous times and he inspired me to do them all as well!
Awesome! Sounds like a fantastic day out, topped off with some climbing with Jerry too!
How are you finding the book?
Moffat competed in 88 in Bardoneccia. He climbed like a bag of spanners but did very well. I can't remember what place he got but Didier Raboutou was amazing and by far the best climber there so Brooke has good genes.
Quite simply the best climber ever in every way. Well done with the interview!
Thanks John, Glad you liked it 😊
Legend!
Absolutely 👍
I was climbing on a 45 degree board at my school way back in 1974. About 7 metres high and 5 metres wide.
If you wanna climb like a champion, behave like a champion. Training, training, training ...and never say it`s boring, that s your life !!!
Brilliant! I loved both of his books. The biggest takeaway was how hard he would try on a climb. No letting go and giving in!
:) yes, trying hard seemed to be his main motto - definitely one to try and take on!
Very great guy! Legend!
Certainly is! Glad you liked the video 👍
Great interview. If you’re looking for suggestion of people to interview though, Dave MacLeod has to be a top contender. Such an incredible climber and super nice guy from everything I’ve seen of him so far.
Thanks :) yes, we’re a fan of Dave MacLeod! He’s so down to earth and nice - would be great to meet and chat to him one day!
What an amazing interview guys !! thank you so much for arranging and sharing that with us all. Jerry, has always been one of my climbing Icons and an amazing ambassador for the sport. You both are doing so much to bring climbing into the fore, keep up your good work and share it with the world... :)
Thank you for your lovely comment 💕 He’s such an inspiration, and a really lovely guy!
The next interview! Can't wait
Still trying to sort out a date for filming but it will be very cool if we can make it happen 😬
Wow this is a treat. Thanks for doing this! I love learning about the history of climbing and those who came before us
Thank you :) glad you enjoyed the video - Jerry is such an amazing figure in climbing history!
Jerry's climbing and my own are diametrically opposed but I can't help be fascinated by his drive and commitment.
:) yes, his style of climbing was very controversial for the time, but the dedication to going climbing just for the love of it is inspiring
@@TheClimbingNomads I think it was more his honesty about wanting to be the best. His competitiveness. That shook people up
Yep he is not one for modesty. He very deliberately set out to be the best in the world and then made sure it happened. He definitely shock up and the climbing world and ruffled some feathers along the way
Really good interview, ordered a copy of the book, always feel like you need to work on the mental aspects as much as physical, if not more so. Cheers guys!
Thanks Damien, completely agree about the mind being the most important muscle to train. Hope the book helps 👍
Fairly good interview, it would have been good to hear what he is up to now climbing wise
Hi Richard - yes, we spoke to Jerry a bit about what he’s up to now climbing wise, but we had so much footage we slimmed down the video and cut that conversation out.
In answer to your question-he doesn’t climb much nowadays, he’s recovering from a bad injury from surfing which limits flexibility and movement for climbing.
only 110 thumbs up??!!thats quality!
Thank you :) glad you enjoyed the interview!
@@TheClimbingNomads i started climbing in vienna 1986. It saves my live!!! Its not a sport its art of living!
Absolutely 👍
Highly recommend "Statement of Youth" on youtube. and more modern "Big Balls and Groundfalls"
Thanks John. Seen both of those, well worth a watch 👍
Can I also say that I went to the same school as Moffat and he only went climbing because his mate wanted to go climbing but couldn't because he had to play in the house rugby match so Jerry took his place to piss him off.
What elbow injury did Jerry have?
Hey, sorry it’s taken so long to reply - not completely sure, know that it needed surgery and he had a good couple of years off I think from memory. Maybe a repititive type injury?
Bad elbow tendinitis, both elbows.
I have photos of Jerry in 1988 and you can see the scars on both elbows.
@@TheClimbingNomads Jerry didn't take much time off after the surgery, he was back on the stone almost what seemed like straight away. That's not much of an exaggeration.
With the scars on both elbows, he proceeded to tick off the hardest climbs in the world, France, USA. It was incredible. I witnessed loads of it, 1987 and 1988 in France, Smith Rocks and Yosemite, 1988, when he did the FA of Clash of the Titans in TM, Pywiack Dome. Jerry and Wolfgang and just a few others were the best of their generation.
Must have been awesome to witness Jerry tick all those routes and problems!
@@TheClimbingNomads And not only Jerry, but so many others like Ben Moon, Wolfgang, the Le Menestrel brothers, JBT, Scott Franklin, Ron Kauk, Lynn Hill etc. But Jerry was ticking off the hardest climbs in rapid fashion pretty much like no one else at the time except perhaps Ben Moon. It was simply incredible.
It was really bittersweet to experience the huge changes in the approach to climbing, and Jerry was always a great person, made himself perfectly clear what his goals were and scoffed at all the BS.
Unfortunately for me and others who were living in Yosemite at the time, I lived there for 15 years, not being famous but yet understanding that John Bacher was being an idiot about ethics, calling him out resulted in violent assaults, vandalism of property etc. He was like Donald Trump with a chalk bag, he had his sycophants go along with his bolt chopping, vandalism etc. . The real dirty stories of the ethics BS, some call the bolting wars in the late 80s have never been told. The shameless Aholes of the climbing industry in the USA never wanted the truth to be told about what a regrettable delusional POS John Bacher was. He actually wrote the rules for establishing new climbs in Yosemite, it reads like a dystopian fascist manual. I have a copy, it's just pathetic in every regard.
I'll never forget the day when Jerry finally had enough of his BS, and Bacher threw a tantrum and walked away. Then Jerry redpointed the FA of Clash of the Titans. Then Bacher lied about it in the magazines. Jerry is a gentleman, and doesn't mention what happened that day in his books, interviews. Rise above the nonsense, focus on what's relevant.
Huge respect for Jerry!
HVS is hard!.
Jerry, don't diss Pete Leavers. If it wasn't for his tolerance you would never had got to the place you did.
Well done great interview! Your certainly getting about and meeting some amazing people , I am 48 going on 49 I watched the birth of the climbing wall the invention of bouldering mats , bouldering wasn't even considered to be of value by many back in the day . The aggression towards sports climbers ( almost a war ) . I think I was one of the very first people to visit the foundry when it opened ... times are changing and all for the better in climbing. Well done .. so who next ?? ...
Thanks Richard. Yep 2020 is off to a great start for the channel. It was an amazing experience to get to chat to such a legend of the sport.