Couple of possible improvements: 1) Put down cling wrap on table to aid cleanup. 2) Maybe embed servos and electronics in wing before foaming or using cling wrapped blocks to make exact voids in foam for electronics. All that being said, great process, great results. Well done.
I love the building of the models from scratch, so fulfilling. any method that shortens time, is a plus, 1st lesson I had to learn the hard waay was, not strong but "just strong enough" or they disintegrate on impact
Absolutely brilliant!! I was thinking about using expanding foam also, but you beet me to it..... My idea was not nearly as elaborate and after seeing this, probably would not have worked anyway. If I ever get around to construction, I will definitely put your good ideas to use. Thank you!
I've used a similar process. Try this: make a thin balsa sheet, wet it, then put a carbon tube where you want the thickest part of the airfoil and wrap the now flexible balsa around it. CA glue the trailing edge, then fill with foam. Trim ends and you have a massively strong structure with no mold needed. Then, either use low-temperature heat shrink covering, or seal and paint. I've used this technique since 2002 and have had zero problems with it.
Lots of comments have been made that a hot wired wing would be just as good. IkyAlvin's method creates a molded stressed skin wing that is extremely strong and still pretty light. It also has some impact tolerance. In order to replicate the strength with a hot wired core it would need a fiberglass or wood skin added to it. That would result in a very strong but fragile wing. Slope planes lead a hard life so some resilience to impact is a good thing. Once the mold has been made many identical wing panels are easily created.
Always wanted to experiment with expanding foam to make a wing. It always seemed so durable and like a great way to make a custom airfoil. Since it's so heavy I never gave it a shot. I never thought about making a slope glider...the weight is perfect to cut through heavy winds. Great demonstration of how it can be done!
looks like a nice alternative to using a hotwire, one day i might have to experiment using mylar sheets as a releasing agent so im left with just the foam core and so that i can vacuum bag fiberglass directly to it. thanks for shareing
if you use expanding foam regularly you would probably find it cheaper to get a foam gun or a foam gun kit same as at screwfix . you can dial it down to a 5mm bead or out to 50mm plus and it won't go off in the tin like a lot of the one shot tins , you also get gun cleaner and heat resistant foam .
I've had great success with expanding foam and cling film! The cling film seems to bond with the expanding foam to make a really strong hard coating, a bit bumpy but awesomely quick for lids/housings etc. Would work well with a mould I'm sure. I lay out the cling film spray foam on, mix it to remove air (and make a denser hard outer layer) then spray foam on top and add a top layer of cling film(with mixed foam as before). It's proper crash proof!
I think it would have been better to use mix your own foam and have the mould on end then pore in the foam from the top it is easy to add to if you think you have not mixed enough and then just pore the extra in, I have used it for several projects I even repaired my rudder on my 40 foot sail boat after it split open by cleaning it out and taping up the rear then added the foam from the top I just watched it expand then when the expansion was slowing down just mixed more and added it this i did 4 times until it was full then re fibre glassed the back end and top and it was stronger than when it was new, I also built a new freezer using plastic board and filled the outside with it it ended up having around 6-8 inches on the base and 4-6 inches on the sides and top it would then freeze in less than 1/2 the time it use to take even though it was the same motor, pump and freezer plates it would pay for its self in the first year in using less power to run the pump than it use to also the pump came on less than half as often compared to what it use to which with it taking half as long to get the temp down and operating less than half as often it was actually only running 1/4 of the time it use to.
Very good idea. It takes more work, but here you will get smooth surface instantly compared to hot wire. This is more suitable method for larger projects. Keep your good work :)
I used expanding polyurethane foam from a can to prevent strong winds lifting corrugated steel sheet on my workshop roof . (This had been laid over a flat felt roof which had begun to feel its age and started to leak). A one-second squirt into each of the raised metal corrugations. Worked fine, the wind did not lift the panels any more, but the foam just kept on expanding at a very slow rate for about a year until it was stable. Concerned that a wing section may change unless kept in a jig for a long time to stabilise.
Try Locktite titefoam. it's more flexible and has a smaller, tighter foam structure. no large pockets of air that could weaken the structure of the wing
Good job, but he's not really making a wing from expanding foam. He's eliminating the need for internal gussets and profiles for the Selitac folded wing.
Spot on. That is exactly what I'm doing. The foam strength and any voids are not really important as the skin is stressed. The foam fill keeps the skins apart and helps control the compression failure of the upper surface. Just like the common I beam.
hey, I've been flying remote control planes, mostly gliders since I was about 14 years old and you did a great job on that man it flew obviously with most of the stuff we build from the ground up it's going to take a little bit of refining but damn good job sir
Audio narrative would complement the visual... Music is not needed, but a little background music might help when there is nothing else to say, so to speak... Nice job!
How strong are these wings compared to EPP? I can make airfoil with 9mm EPP very quickly and by using carbon fiber tubes or fishing pole sections, they become indestructible and still very light.
Nice, everything about this is very good. Flying the finished beast looks like a very tough challenge though with no fuselage or tail for directional perspective! I'd lose it in 6 seconds. This guy is pretty darn good! A1.
Nice idea, but when you only show text and pictures, you can also write a blog. Its way easyer and nobody expects to be entertained by a video with sound and speech. ;)
Very interesting. I have some canned foam somewhere. I reckon that if you could extend the nozzle on the can, you could make a much bigger wing, 8ft or even more! B¬)
I need about 5 minutes for one 50 to 70cm piece of wing, from cutting the foam from the big piece, putting on the templates and cutting lower and upper side. Plus: the excess material is a good way to store the wings. They actually pile up on the shelve behind me.
The sturdy skin would seem to be an advantage and would obviate need for shucks. And the idea is to re-use the mold. Maybe you can cut perfect LEs with a hot wire, but this method pretty much guarantees it.
I use this foam a lot for work and they do a gun specifically for it which is a lot more controllable and you would have a lot less expanding out of the mould. And you can re use it which is a bonus too 👍🏻 nice idea and a good result though
I am working on something like that and it seems lots of work was put it into creation of that wooden box. Is there an easier way to make the foam pressed like that?
I think there are lots of things you could try. A simple method might be to try making something out of foam that looked like the discarded top and bottom halves of a hot wire cut wing. Another interesting thing to try would be to use expanding foam to make an outside mould of an existing wing. Cling wrap/film can be used to stop the expanding foam sticking. The wooden frame may not be totally necessary but it keeps the mould straight and protects it. Why not make it in such a way that it can be reused? There are plenty of examples on UA-cam of expanding foam destroying carefully crafted model boats - so bear in mind it can be powerful stuff. The most important aspect is that the moulded item is fully supported by the mould in all areas where the shape is important. The fit/alignment of the mound at the trailing edge is quite important. In later versions of the wing I have chamfered underlay at the join to get a thinner trailing edge. Good luck - make a video and let me know how you get on.
If you already have something to copy or can make a mock up some how you could use this technique.. Paint on silicon rubber that hardens into the mold. Then before removing from the object you molded, you coat the outside of the rubber with fiberglass to make the hard outer case to support the rubber mold. You coat the rubber mold with a chemical release agent, then put in the expanding foam. Then you have a mold that can be reused many times. www.smoothon.hu/antler%20reproduction.pdf
Great idea, must do some experiments to see if there is enough flexibility and compressibility in the foam if you want to build longer wings or in case of crash so the frame would not fracture
Good idea for a wind turbine blade. The PVA might not be needed, but I put it on thick at the trailing edge to bond the foam selitac together where the expanding foam does not reach. I also put a very thinned coat of water and PVA inside the wing to encourage this type of foam to cure and expand. It may not be appropriate for other materials and types of expanding foam.
for larger or more intricate objects than this, you 're propably better off, using castable 2k PU foam. it's not as easy and cheap to come by, but MUCH more even and precise you can adjust the density it expands to. (usually it's denser, but that can be adjusted with small amounts of extra water, to reduce weight) i've seen sculptures cast from "foam-it" in silicone coated molds, the results are amazing.
Es hermoso, es espectacular, es una maravilla, es grandioso el lugar donde vuela! Del ala lo unico que rescato es su construccion creativa y varata. Muy varata.
Totality agree with you. In the time it took him to make a mold for just this one airfoil I could cut dozens of airfoils with different size roots and tips with my home made semiautomatic hot wire cutter. Made with a yardstick (using the metric side for the different size root and tip) four screen door rollers for pulleys, a four foot hot wire bow, and a non automatic 12volt, 10 amp battery charger and a couple of clamps and weights.
Not necessarily. A hot wired wing would still need to be skinned to be as strong as this one, that comes out of the mold already skinned, complete with tunnels for wires or control rods. This method would be an excellent choice for building a semi scale aluminum skinned WWII plane such a P51.
Interesting method of producing foam wings. However,it does not appear to have any advantage over the traditional hot wire cut foam method. Probably more expensive, messy and time consuming. In my opinion your method has potential but needs more refinement. May I encourage you to continue, you may start a wing making revolution!
very nice idea, very nice video, and flying not sure win but i will try your method. it does look like a lot of work for a wing but if you plan far enough ahead you could use the same Mould for several airplanes. great job and thank you for sharing
Since PVA is the Elmers type I was wondering if you have issues when your plane gets wet? Elmer's is not water proof like the yellow glue sold beside it in stores. Aliphatic is the yellow type.
David Bourland yellow glue is not very common in the UK, however white glues which are 'cross linked' and thus for outdoor use are easily obtainable, you simply have to read the label and check you have the right kind of pva 'based' glue, this is probably also true in North America
Well done great vid very educational, how does the wing go for radio reception? I would imagine all the alloy on the wing surface would play havoc for the Rx, I imagine sloping you don't go so far, but does it interfere on longer distances to your Rx?? I suppose you could use plastic sheeting for the skin and that would solve the Rx problem?
its not alloy, its plastic foil that only looks like alloy over a layer of 5mm foam its used as underfloor, to go under the topfloor like laminateflooring, you can compare the reflective foil with a thinner version of ''car wrap'' its available in gold color too, i have sold that stuff for years, there is even adhesive tape available of the same stuff (looks in fact like reflective packing tape) to cover gaps and to keep it nice together without ''coldleaks'' you can in fact make awesome lightweight and sturdy models with that stuff.
This is a slope soaring glider so does not have a motor or motor batteries. Each wing half was 164g and 161g when taken from the mould. Total weight of moulded wing parts about 325g. Assembled wing without any electronics 351g with RX and RX batteries and servos 487g. Flying weight as a slope soaring wing 676g after nose weight added to obtain centre of gravity.
Soudal Genius. www.soudal.com/geniusgun/en/diyen/index.html. The built-in dispensing trigger seems to work quite well for me and means I've been able to reuse the same can several times: 1 can does two wing halves of this size. Each half about 140 grams when finished.
Sweet idea. Always cool to see people build something themselves versus buying it at a store.
Couple of possible improvements:
1) Put down cling wrap on table to aid cleanup.
2) Maybe embed servos and electronics in wing before foaming or using cling wrapped blocks to make exact voids in foam for electronics.
All that being said, great process, great results.
Well done.
I had this idea a few years back but never followed through glad to see some else did AND did it! Nice job
I love the building of the models from scratch, so fulfilling. any method that shortens time, is a plus, 1st lesson I had to learn the hard waay was, not strong but "just strong enough" or they disintegrate on impact
I watched this for the dialogue. Best I've heard on YT
The Banter is especially nice. 😋
This dude would not shut up.
Profoundly witty commentary!
Good on you for trying something different, thinking differently, it gives you a nice smooth surface immediately, not a bad idea.
Absolutely brilliant!! I was thinking about using expanding foam also, but you beet me to it..... My idea was not nearly as elaborate and after seeing this, probably would not have worked anyway. If I ever get around to construction, I will definitely put your good ideas to use.
Thank you!
I've used a similar process. Try this: make a thin balsa sheet, wet it, then put a carbon tube where you want the thickest part of the airfoil and wrap the now flexible balsa around it. CA glue the trailing edge, then fill with foam. Trim ends and you have a massively strong structure with no mold needed. Then, either use low-temperature heat shrink covering, or seal and paint. I've used this technique since 2002 and have had zero problems with it.
Lots of comments have been made that a hot wired wing would be just as good. IkyAlvin's method creates a molded stressed skin wing that is extremely strong and still pretty light. It also has some impact tolerance. In order to replicate the strength with a hot wired core it would need a fiberglass or wood skin added to it. That would result in a very strong but fragile wing. Slope planes lead a hard life so some resilience to impact is a good thing. Once the mold has been made many identical wing panels are easily created.
Always wanted to experiment with expanding foam to make a wing. It always seemed so durable and like a great way to make a custom airfoil. Since it's so heavy I never gave it a shot. I never thought about making a slope glider...the weight is perfect to cut through heavy winds.
Great demonstration of how it can be done!
yes, indeed it's very heavy but very durable.
looks like a nice alternative to using a hotwire, one day i might have to experiment using mylar sheets as a releasing agent so im left with just the foam core and so that i can vacuum bag fiberglass directly to it. thanks for shareing
You have CORRECTED me , Sir!
I tried this when Expanding foam first came out...and failed so bad I thought it was a "dumb" idea, LoL!
if you use expanding foam regularly you would probably find it cheaper to get a foam gun or a foam gun kit same as at screwfix . you can dial it down to a 5mm bead or out to 50mm plus and it won't go off in the tin like a lot of the one shot tins , you also get gun cleaner and heat resistant foam .
Great use of everyday, easy to get materials. Great build video.
This must have been the flying saucer I reported to the police on that day, thought I was going crazy. They are releasing me next month. Great work👍
I've had great success with expanding foam and cling film! The cling film seems to bond with the expanding foam to make a really strong hard coating, a bit bumpy but awesomely quick for lids/housings etc. Would work well with a mould I'm sure.
I lay out the cling film spray foam on, mix it to remove air (and make a denser hard outer layer) then spray foam on top and add a top layer of cling film(with mixed foam as before). It's proper crash proof!
What? Sounds like a mess and way heavier than it needs to be. Have you never heard of laminating?
Now that was impressive. I can see that technique applied to other products, not just R/C flying...
I think it would have been better to use mix your own foam and have the mould on end then pore in the foam from the top it is easy to add to if you think you have not mixed enough and then just pore the extra in, I have used it for several projects I even repaired my rudder on my 40 foot sail boat after it split open by cleaning it out and taping up the rear then added the foam from the top I just watched it expand then when the expansion was slowing down just mixed more and added it this i did 4 times until it was full then re fibre glassed the back end and top and it was stronger than when it was new, I also built a new freezer using plastic board and filled the outside with it it ended up having around 6-8 inches on the base and 4-6 inches on the sides and top it would then freeze in less than 1/2 the time it use to take even though it was the same motor, pump and freezer plates it would pay for its self in the first year in using less power to run the pump than it use to also the pump came on less than half as often compared to what it use to which with it taking half as long to get the temp down and operating less than half as often it was actually only running 1/4 of the time it use to.
From the thumbnail, I thought you were gonna cook a chicken ... I gotta get new glasses lol ;-)
Charles Roberts me too lol 😂
Excellent idea. This would be a very solid wing.
Very good idea. It takes more work, but here you will get smooth surface instantly compared to hot wire. This is more suitable method for larger projects. Keep your good work :)
I used expanding polyurethane foam from a can to prevent strong winds lifting corrugated steel sheet on my workshop roof . (This had been laid over a flat felt roof which had begun to feel its age and started to leak). A one-second squirt into each of the raised metal corrugations. Worked fine, the wind did not lift the panels any more, but the foam just kept on expanding at a very slow rate for about a year until it was stable. Concerned that a wing section may change unless kept in a jig for a long time to stabilise.
the launch directly toward THE SUN! caused me to have to wear my sunglasses and I couldn't see anything....oh well! I'm not disappointed..
Love how clever this is. Well done.
Alvin, Look into 2-part mix & pour polyol foam. It's much easier to work with than a spray can and you will not have bubbles causing voids.
Awesome... next time I'm out at the bar I want you to be my wingman.
You can be my wingman anytime.
Crowley, I don't think you understand what "wingman" means.
Kamran Ahmad Sure I do.
you know Aleister was a pan sexual right?....just sayin'
im not a 'wing' guy, but video i loved.
good work!
Try Locktite titefoam. it's more flexible and has a smaller, tighter foam structure. no large pockets of air that could weaken the structure of the wing
I was just about to post the same thing. I'm using it in clay molds (unrelated to RC) and it's fantastic!
Nice - why not mold a spar right in? That would be a big advantage of this over hot-wire cutting.
Andy R, good idea - see my other video where I moulded in a wing brace for joining three sections together.
IkyAlvin n
Good job, but he's not really making a wing from expanding foam. He's eliminating the need for internal gussets and profiles for the Selitac folded wing.
Spot on. That is exactly what I'm doing. The foam strength and any voids are not really important as the skin is stressed. The foam fill keeps the skins apart and helps control the compression failure of the upper surface. Just like the common I beam.
Semantics. Sure looked an expanding foam wing to me.
I'll gladly trade mess for a master to make many wings quickly and easily
Is to.
@@joewoodchuck3824 It's called GPS blogs.illinois.edu/view/25/76120
hey, I've been flying remote control planes, mostly gliders since I was about 14 years old and you did a great job on that man it flew obviously with most of the stuff we build from the ground up it's going to take a little bit of refining but damn good job sir
Audio narrative would complement the visual... Music is not needed, but a little background music might help when there is nothing else to say, so to speak...
Nice job!
use clingfilm and hairspray on the mould, fill directly with foam, done
Watt Waster. I guess it is not done after All
Yeah I used the cling film method - awesome speed and strength - not sure about the hairspray?
Yep, use this method for fiber glass molds with epoxy. Works great for the money.
woow 6:46 this is amazing very good Lift-to-drag ratio
How strong are these wings compared to EPP? I can make airfoil with 9mm EPP very quickly and by using carbon fiber tubes or fishing pole sections, they become indestructible and still very light.
Fantastic Work and it Fly very well :)
Nice, everything about this is very good. Flying the finished beast looks like a very tough challenge though with no fuselage or tail for directional perspective! I'd lose it in 6 seconds. This guy is pretty darn good! A1.
Wow. Thats tedious. Mad respect for him for taking the time to do it
Nice idea, but when you only show text and pictures, you can also write a blog. Its way easyer and nobody expects to be entertained by a video with sound and speech. ;)
Nice clean wings good work, man.
Very interesting. I have some canned foam somewhere. I reckon that if you could extend the nozzle on the can, you could make a much bigger wing, 8ft or even more! B¬)
looks like it makes a very strong wing... I like it.
excellence from simplcity! very efficient
great job. if you want stronger versions, use split coroplast for the skins. very strong and stiff.
Old vid but great idea
I love the look of the selitac :D like a vintage pop rivet plane.
Idk why the thumbnail looks so delicious 😂
Blocking off one end and having a restricter plate you can put on the open end would reduce the amount of foam needed.
very cool but I'm sorry, I don't understand what propels it forward. Is there a propeller not shown?
super cool bro !
nice video, but how do you fill the kerosine into that wing?
This seems like an hugely excessive amount of work compared to hot wire. I can't see an advantage.
That the same thing I was thinking.
I need about 5 minutes for one 50 to 70cm piece of wing, from cutting the foam from the big piece, putting on the templates and cutting lower and upper side. Plus: the excess material is a good way to store the wings. They actually pile up on the shelve behind me.
Nice suggestion. Would be excellent for round shapes like noses or tails. Even modular fuselage sections would be possible.
Not to mention that is a very expensive wing to make. Those materials are much more expensive than cutting foam cores.
The sturdy skin would seem to be an advantage and would obviate need for shucks. And the idea is to re-use the mold. Maybe you can cut perfect LEs with a hot wire, but this method pretty much guarantees it.
Impressive work. Very clever idea.
I use this foam a lot for work and they do a gun specifically for it which is a lot more controllable and you would have a lot less expanding out of the mould. And you can re use it which is a bonus too 👍🏻 nice idea and a good result though
Only thing I don't like about expanding foam is the waste that sometimes results. But, it does fill a cavity quite nicely!
That's what she said!
sorry.
I am working on something like that and it seems lots of work was put it into creation of that wooden box. Is there an easier way to make the foam pressed like that?
I think there are lots of things you could try. A simple method might be to try making something out of foam that looked like the discarded top and bottom halves of a hot wire cut wing. Another interesting thing to try would be to use expanding foam to make an outside mould of an existing wing. Cling wrap/film can be used to stop the expanding foam sticking. The wooden frame may not be totally necessary but it keeps the mould straight and protects it. Why not make it in such a way that it can be reused? There are plenty of examples on UA-cam of expanding foam destroying carefully crafted model boats - so bear in mind it can be powerful stuff. The most important aspect is that the moulded item is fully supported by the mould in all areas where the shape is important. The fit/alignment of the mound at the trailing edge is quite important. In later versions of the wing I have chamfered underlay at the join to get a thinner trailing edge. Good luck - make a video and let me know how you get on.
If you already have something to copy or can make a mock up some how you could use this technique.. Paint on silicon rubber that hardens into the mold. Then before removing from the object you molded, you coat the outside of the rubber with fiberglass to make the hard outer case to support the rubber mold. You coat the rubber mold with a chemical release agent, then put in the expanding foam. Then you have a mold that can be reused many times. www.smoothon.hu/antler%20reproduction.pdf
Isnt there alot of waste of foam? They come out nice but as a beginner I think I will go along with a wire cutting device so much easier.
Spray cooking oil on the table surface first. will help in cleanup
cover table with paint plastic or similar
Great idea, must do some experiments to see if there is enough flexibility and compressibility in the foam if you want to build longer wings or in case of crash so the frame would not fracture
Just a thought, were does the waste go.... Can you eat it so it not wasted?
is it normal to want to eat it?
What kept the frame foam from sticking to the master form?
Maybe use stretch foil for wing insulation. Have you added some fiber glass to that structure?
cool build
Seems a lot of f*cking about to get the end result. I will stick to foam board and formers. Much quicker IMO. But thanks for posting.
That is very cool!!!
I thought it was a giant grilled cheese/cheese toasty from the thumbnail! Very good video
You're making me hungry!!! :¬P
Wouldn't it be easier to just spray some foam spray in the air?
:)
I use tha wing for a vawt. Wind turbine. WHAT DOES THE PVA DO?
Good idea for a wind turbine blade. The PVA might not be needed, but I put it on thick at the trailing edge to bond the foam selitac together where the expanding foam does not reach. I also put a very thinned coat of water and PVA inside the wing to encourage this type of foam to cure and expand. It may not be appropriate for other materials and types of expanding foam.
for larger or more intricate objects than this, you 're propably better off, using castable 2k PU foam. it's not as easy and cheap to come by, but MUCH more even and precise you can adjust the density it expands to. (usually it's denser, but that can be adjusted with small amounts of extra water, to reduce weight)
i've seen sculptures cast from "foam-it" in silicone coated molds, the results are amazing.
Why break up the excess foam? It can be carved into nose cones etc.
Es hermoso, es espectacular, es una maravilla, es grandioso el lugar donde vuela! Del ala lo unico que rescato es su construccion creativa y varata. Muy varata.
I have used this method for creating "nerf" footballs. Great job. My wallet thanks you.
what are the chances of air pocket or weak spots in the mold
the wing resistance is greater than Extruded polystyrene (XPS) ?
Nice work my man.
It's polyurethane ?
Too much mess 😕 Hot Wire appears to be a better choice.
Nope
Yes.
Nope
Totality agree with you. In the time it took him to make a mold for just this one airfoil I could cut dozens of airfoils with different size roots and tips with my home made semiautomatic hot wire cutter. Made with a yardstick (using the metric side for the different size root and tip) four screen door rollers for pulleys, a four foot hot wire bow, and a non automatic 12volt, 10 amp battery charger and a couple of clamps and weights.
Not necessarily. A hot wired wing would still need to be skinned to be as strong as this one, that comes out of the mold already skinned, complete with tunnels for wires or control rods. This method would be an excellent choice for building a semi scale aluminum skinned WWII plane such a P51.
Interesting method of producing foam wings. However,it does not appear to have any advantage
over the traditional hot wire cut foam method. Probably more expensive, messy and time consuming.
In my opinion your method has potential but needs more refinement. May I encourage you to continue,
you may start a wing making revolution!
very nice idea, very nice video, and flying not sure win but i will try your method. it does look like a lot of work for a wing but if you plan far enough ahead you could use the same Mould for several airplanes. great job and thank you for sharing
No plucked chicken tickling here.
What's the weight of this rig
hold on, this is a glider ? propulsion free glider ?
Thanks for the guide I'm making one right now! :-D
Make and post a video. I'd like to see what you develop.
Absolutely Genius !
U can make a FlyingWing with Dollar Tree foam sheets that are far less labor intensive & messy!
Nice job...!
Hallo.mahan_bahan what should be prepared. Thank you
what is the weight consistency like?
FYI, don't do this on the kitchen table or you will sleep on the couch and you won't get any for sometimes ;)
Since PVA is the Elmers type I was wondering if you have issues when your plane gets wet? Elmer's is not water proof like the yellow glue sold beside it in stores. Aliphatic is the yellow type.
David Bourland yellow glue is not very common in the UK, however white glues which are 'cross linked' and thus for outdoor use are easily obtainable, you simply have to read the label and check you have the right kind of pva 'based' glue, this is probably also true in North America
Thanks for the reply. This is what i started with when flying a wing.
link: www.racores.com/
A lot of fun on the cheap!
Well done great vid very educational, how does the wing go for radio reception? I would imagine all the alloy on the wing surface would play havoc for the Rx, I imagine sloping you don't go so far, but does it interfere on longer distances to your Rx?? I suppose you could use plastic sheeting for the skin and that would solve the Rx problem?
I'm using a DT micro Rx with old Spektrum dx6i TX. not noticed any range problems, but then not extensively tested either.
IkyAlvin
tilo böhme hn
its not alloy, its plastic foil that only looks like alloy over a layer of 5mm foam its used as underfloor, to go under the topfloor like laminateflooring, you can compare the reflective foil with a thinner version of ''car wrap''
its available in gold color too, i have sold that stuff for years,
there is even adhesive tape available of the same stuff (looks in fact like reflective packing tape) to cover gaps and to keep it nice together without ''coldleaks''
you can in fact make awesome lightweight and sturdy models with that stuff.
It's a vinyl wrap. Don't be afraid to use Google.
Nice place to fly !
C'est bien, le profilé du moule vous l'avez fabriquer comment ? Merci.
Good concept. The plane is not V'd enough. Therefore it is unstable.
@6:03 I can envision making a mini ultra with that wing shape...Awesome
InTheFleshInc
What has been the final weight of the wings without motor and electronica, in empty.
saludos
This is a slope soaring glider so does not have a motor or motor batteries. Each wing half was 164g and 161g when taken from the mould. Total weight of moulded wing parts about 325g. Assembled wing without any electronics 351g with RX and RX batteries and servos 487g. Flying weight as a slope soaring wing 676g after nose weight added to obtain centre of gravity.
the earth is spinning 1000 mph no need to fly just hover and wait for the spin
Like your process
Expanding foam is not necessary if you're going to use that outerskin. Could've reinforced inside with some laser cut wood for support.
a little bit heavy, please post the foam you used.
Soudal Genius. www.soudal.com/geniusgun/en/diyen/index.html. The built-in dispensing trigger seems to work quite well for me and means I've been able to reuse the same can several times: 1 can does two wing halves of this size. Each half about 140 grams when finished.
Like welding without a mask in bright sunlight?