You know, a log chain does wonders for balancing this type of trailer. Heavy enough to tip it one way or the other and hold it there, but easy enough to grab off the deck and put back in the tool box. Besides, their also handy for chaining down your load, pulling a vehicle out, locking up valuable stuff, etc. Relatively cheap, too. Also, I liked the spare tire mount idea, but I would have thought you'd put it off center, so it is easier to reach when you need it. Great job setting up an awesome trailer. Congratulations, your life just got so much easier!
The Winch needs to be mounted in the center of trailer and then you can use a chain/strap to bridal the vehicle on both sides. Off setting the winch like that will make it harder to winch other things on the trailer. Sorry to me this is not a good way to do it.
From reading futher down I get the feeling that your saying that the rear of the trailer is going down to far which makes the ramps come up? If thats the problem. Just get you a good oak block(don't have to be oak) that you can slide under the rear of the traler that has 2-3 incches of space between top of the. Block and the bottom of the traler. This keeps trl. From being. Pushed down. If its to tight to pull out with a load on the trailer just pull up a few inches. Most of the blocks I carry have screen door handles on at least one end.,which makes it easier to pick up and carry. have a good day.
The factory needs to talk to you about all of the corrections. The factory needs to pay for for community improvements. This always is a win / win. We the community are testing these problems every day.
Could you add some diamond plate between the ramps to get the desired weight? Or maybe add the lift gate shocks from maybe a Suburban hatchback to the front of the trailer?
My uncle and I have a similar trailer like this ran into the same problem, put the spare for balance under the trailer its an awesome idea worked great ... until you get into some steep ramps like pulling into parking lots and your tear the hole tire out I just want to warn you later on we took a 35lbs round work out weight and welded to under backside of the trailer not more problems , great setup love the vids keep them coming
Thanks for the video. Timely for me as I'm checking out trailer and considering a tilt bed. Nice work on the cleanup of the manufacturers work and relocation of the winch.
I had the same balance problem on my tilt bed, I made lead weights that fit into the stakes pockets that were removable to use tiedown for vehicle if nessisary. also mounted winch in center of bed, and used a chain to both corners of vehicle and then to winch hook, once loaded, the chain remained as tiedown to secure load. Just a thought :)
I have a setup about the same. I also had the same balance problem. I just changed my pivot points. Now I can micro adjust the bed. This was a good video with alot of good ideas about the winch placement.
On my flat trailer I went to a junkyard and scored a spare tire mount from the same brand pickup truck and mounted it underneath the tounge and was able to use the same tool that I used in my truck to lower it down and such. Best $20 I spent on mine.
On the 7-pole trailer wiring there is a 12v constant power source. If you tape into it and run it to the trailer winch battery, it will charge the battery in between loading and unloading vehicles. Video of where I got the idea. Utility Trailer With Custom Winch Mount & Lighting
GREAT IDEA! I did that. It goes to the little battery box and then charges my battery for the winch all the while it's attached to the truck. I love it! It's way better than that solar panel setup on my old PJ trailer. No more snow blockade.
Maybe could have mounted the winch in the middle with the cable going forward to a pulley then back to the car. sometimes some boards 2x10 to roll the wheels on holds the trailer down too, Thanks for the nice video, Pete
I don't follow the idea of wanting the winch mounted off center, if there was an advantage to it, rollbacks would be that way. Even NRC mounts their winches on their rollbacks perpendicular on the side but the cable is fed to a center sheave so it still pulls from the center. All you need is a V bridle to hook into the tiedown holes or axle or A frames and you distribute the pull to both sides of the vehicle. I enjoyed your video but I just didn't understand the off center winch mounting.
Correct, he doesn’t know about bridles. He doesn’t know to hood a transport hook to the winch hook🤣🤣🤣 but, he is out here teaching auto transport, and offset winching🤣🤣
Very nice video thanks for posting. I do hope you have figured this out by now tho. There are chains that you can by most anywhere they sell towing equipment that have hooks (different types of) that connect to a center ring. Hook to either side of loading vehicle. That keeps you from having to offset your winch. You should always keep your winch center. You can adjust the chain length to pull to either side of trailer. Also adding hook points down the sides of your trailer you can make use of a snatch block to pull vehicles into position if they are not already lined up with the trailer. Message me if you have questions or here.
Exactly what I was thinking. I have never seen a vehicle that had to be winched , by hooking to only one side point. Center the winch where it NEEDS to be and bridle the 2 points so you can pull from the center.
Just add some counter weight under the deck on the rear end. Build a box under the deck and add concrete to it until it balances out. As far at that goes strap a piece of 6 inch PVC across the tail end with caps glued on both ends and fill it with something until the bed tips back.
Need to install a damper valve on the cylinder. My trailer has a line that goes from the top to the bottom of the cylinder with an adjustable valve inline. I can lock the cylinder open (deck up), slow the deck from hitting down hard or lock closed (transport position). Look into it.
Hey Brian,make your truck a dual battery system and connect to winch with an anderson plug. Battery stays charged if the trailer doesn't get much use. Still keep battery case on trailer in case you need a different vehicle pull trailer. To lock down your storage space fit a sliding or drop bolt on the top plate.
Could you put 2 spares on and use some crank mechanism's for the spares from a wrecking yard to pull them up under the trailer. The spares would be easier to access and it would help put extra weight on the back of the trailer. plus it never hurts to have an extra spare. You may also be able to move them slightly forward for a little more ground clearance when bed is tilted. Nice job and good luck, good idea mounting winch on the bed also.
I also spent a little time rounding the sharp edges on my trailer. The time spent doing it will be money saved in the long run because you won't be ripping up your clothes. On your spare tire mount, it's lower than I would like and difficult to access. Did you consider mounting it about the same place but from the top? You'd have to cut a hole about 3' square in the deck and then fabricate a "basket" to put the tire in, just deep enough so the edge of the spare is about flush with the deck. It'd require cutting the crossbars on the frame so you'd have to reinforce those too. Hope that makes sense...
Those oblong holes in the vehicle frame are specifically for T-post anchor points that a frame machine hooks up to, when straightening a frame after an accident. That is why they are all the same, on uni-body vehicles and vehicles with more substantial frames. They aren't really designed for a standard chain hook. If you use a standard chain hook it will tend to tear if you use too much force - like when extracting a stuck vehicle from a ditch without tightening the chain up first. A T-post with an offset hook eye is commonly used in those points. These are pretty cheap ($5), and will work better than the chain hook without tearing up the frame.
I recommend a set of Towing J Hooks or just a small piece of chain that can go from one side of the car to the other so that way you can always winch from the center and have everything going straight on
Use stainless steel spare tyre bolts, so that they do not rust solid when you want to use the spare. Nothing worse than trying to get that rusted bolt loose when you need it. Grease it as well, and take it off after fitting and use a grinder to remove thread on the extra bolt section so you have a smooth guide to both align the wheel and to lessen the threading required. Saves having to hacksaw it off when you want to use it. Been there done that. Hope you have a jack that fits the trailer in the front lock box as well, or else you will find out the hard way.
Brian, what you should have done was welded half a chain link in the rear underside bottom edge of the tilting bed. Next, you weld the other half of the link under the trailer's frame then put a bungee cord between them. The cord would have tried to retract and since the bed has no where to go but down, it would have gone down. When you drive a car onto the ramp, the bungee cord would stretch but that's ok because they are supposed to stretch. You could have added a 12" length of light duty chain between the bungee cord and one end of the links in order to customize the pulling force by moving the bungee end up or down a link or two. They do these kinds of custom tension setups on the cable gyms I assemble. If the steel cable stretches, you just move the clip up one link on the chain. It is simple, adds less than a pound and would have cost you 10 bucks for the piece of chain and a bungee cord. Problem with your solution is, if you have to load a car on a slight hill or if there are rocks underneath the spare tire, the ramp won't go all the way down.
Great video Brian... Although that spare tire looks like a bear to get to and you know how dirty it will be by the time you need it. I think I would have gone with some old school hood springs mounted at the back of the trailer to help pull the tail down, or maybe some cheap workout weights from Wal-Mart. You could even make adjustable holders so you can mount them up front when you don't need that extra weight on the tail. Another option would be to extend that dove-tail a bit. The longer length might be an issue when getting it down your driveway if it's a super tight spot. Nice rig!
that car makes it easy. Those awd subarus always drive up ramps and stuff without any fuss. Try it with a front wheel drive accord or something, and you are slipping and rolling back and forth.
as a custom trailer and pontoon house boat builder, the valve on the system you use to adjust your balance of the tilt deck,, that's what that proportioning valve is for as needed, , not adding weight or taking of weight, do what you need an adjust it also, don't be pulling off one side of a frame, specaly if one wheel is gone an have to drag it on, good way to twist things, ever see a roll back tow truck with the winch off to one side, no, it center of the deck, and you buy or make up a Y chain with J hooks on the ends of the chain and hook them around your front control arms right close to each wheel or on holes in frame meant for them, using the Y tow chain pull even on both side no mater how hard the pull is on one side as a wheel is gone, theem factory hooks wont take a hard pull specially only on one side, you have to pull even or you are going to do damage,, your spare tire is in a great place if your always loading on pavement, but most places there are big humps rock to cut up the tire on graval roads, and have to lay on your back in a mud hole in the rain to get your tire out.. good work though, every factory trailer they cut corners regardless of safety, I hate ohow poorly they are all made, and everything is sharp, that's why I started custom builds 34 years ago,, in fact it was right after a V tough broke off a factory trailer that was 3 weeks old on the hyw and the trailer went on its own killing a 17 year old on his bike
The balance problem is why I do not intend to use a bleed cylinder on the car hauler I will be building. A hydraulic cylinder with a 4-way valve and a small pump with remote gives total control up or down. Well worth the extra cost I think.
Those little oval holes are T-Hook holes,if you were to buy a proper V Bridal with J Hooks, T Hooks, and Mini J Hooks, you would be able to hook to both sides of the car with the bridal and then the winch cable would end up dead center of the vehicle and you the vehicle would be way more secure when loaded, and you could have put the winch in the center of the trailer where it belongs. Also the whole spare thing works great on flat level ground but doubt it would work so great on a really uneven surface.
Good idea finish the middle of working on your trailer because from the factory they just hack it off and paint it really a hazard that's exactly what I do and 15 minutes of your time is really a great finishing reward, I like Smooth. Nice trailer by the way 🙏🙏
could you have moved the front spare tire mount to the back instead of making one under the bed of the trailer? Or would it just be in the way for you?
Did you consider something like trampoline springs behind the trailer frame to get the desired tilt you need for loading vehicles. This came to mind because a beaver tail usually has a helper spring to raise it off the ground.
Always mount your winch dead center of the trailor. Use a "Y" strap to attach a hook to each side of the frame or uni body. Using only 1 frame hole to support the entire load of vehicle is never a good idea. Especially in salty Michigan 😂💪👌
do you think that maybe a safety chain or 2 needs to be on the frame up to the deck close to where the winch is mounted when winching something that is a hard pull to keep from damaging the deck?
Maybe you shoud try to put a gas pressurized shock absorber from a car at the front. It will help to keep the deck in loading position and absorb the hit when the deck goes down. It's just an idea....
You said you need 50 pounds of pressure to balance it out. What if you tacked 50lbs of weights to the tail end of the trailer? That would offset the winch weight if I'm following this correctly?!
Only type of lock I can think of that would "fit" that space is a cable lock. Though those are way too easy to defeat, as a normal pair of scissors will cut through the thin cable no problem.
Haha same things I'm gonna have to do when I get my trailer. Mine is gonna be a gooseneck tilt similar to yours. I looked for video bout this stuff and couldn't find much. Thanks for the heads up!!
Do you have any problems with the battery cables dragging the ground? Im redoing my tilt trailer/winch battery set up.. and thinking of making a set of cables with quick connects to be plugged up when I use the winch. Also had the same problem with the tilting of the trailer.. I added weight to the end of the ramps, underneath... which will be relocated also.
best be careful with the unibody. mist of those holes are for frame measurement for assembly and body/frame repair. they are not meant for winching or tie down. best to use an extra chain and hook both sides to the cross member then hook winch cable.
Wow, NICE setup! I would cover up that winch with something to keep it out of the elements. Maybe cut the top off (or even bottom out) of a tool box and mount it over it. Could you whack off the spare tire mount and weld it back onto the side of the trailer in the back. That would add weight to the A** and the tire would still be servicable. It would be nice if that dampener was adjustable, like a screen door dampener.
Thanks- yeah, working in the cold weather as I often do you discover sharp things much easier. You're more mentally dull, traction is less, and everything hurts a lot worse.
Question I watched your harmonic balancer removal video .Does that kit you bought also install the harmonic balancer? I'm getting ready to reinstall mine and I'm not sure how to go about it .Thanks.
Would seem like a no brainer to weigh the winch then add that much weight to the rear. Running the winch on center & not worrying how the cable winds on can be simplified by using 2 connection points on the car & attach the winch in the center.
Just use a piece of steel or lead equivalent to the weight of the winch and bolt it under the deck towards the rear where u need the weight compensation just like adding weight to a race car where u need it
Mount winch in middle and use a bridle like what is used on a flat bed tow truck and the winch will wind up evenly as well as pull the vehicle up with even force on the attaching points. Also noticed you did not have a 4 point tied own on the car. What would happen if the strap on the back broke or the winch malfunctioned and the cable came loose? I thought you would know better after your trailer towing safety videos. Could also added a couple more cross members at the back of trailer for the added weight to compensate for the weight of the winch.
At time 5:53 you can see C channel that I had planned to add to the back like you say. I just hated the idea of adding weight that I paid good money for-- reducing capacity and adding boiyoiyoing to the back section like a weighted diving board.
briansmobile1 I use those 2 in. ratchet straps with transport clusters for hooking to the vehicle with my trailer and use on on each corner of the vehicle, they are much easier and lighter to use than chain&binders.
C of G problem. Just an idea..... .water is heavy so maybe the beaver tail could contain a slim tank either side with just the right amount of water to restore the balance, Then re-mount the spare back up front.
Curious how hard it would be to set it up with a hydrolic proportional valve instead or even a small 12volt pump and just send it up load the car and drop it afterwards
I have. I had one lined up for $12K, but they're not as good for lock-outs, jump starts, 4x4 recoveries etc. I really like the flexibility and available parking by not having one.
Like the setup, good job! If you ever get a chance could you please make a video about electronic trailer brake controllers? I would like to learn about them.
I know this is old hey brian I am looking at this same trailer is it worth it ? was it a good trailer and I am looking at the 22ft one do you think its strong euff if I had say a RZR on the front half and one on the back half there's a lot of hang over In the rear is it strong euff to handle weight on the rear end of the trailer thanks
OK so I am going to be modifying my trailer this spring to give me a better approach angle.. what is it on your and have you had any problems thus far with it?
+DillysADV This trailer was comissioned by the owner of the company for hauling his Corvette to the race track. Then they made a heavier duty version with bigger axles which is what I have.
All those hook points you showed on all the vehicles are tie down points ment to keep a vehicle in place during transport.... you never want to really pull from those it's not what they are meant for. With little rolling resistance it would probably be ok... but you can definitely rip open a unibody chassis using those points to pull on.
YES! But for it to be stong enough to work, you'd have to have a HEAVY rail piece that would require a lot of counter weight at the back end too. That could reduce your capacity.
Always winch from center!!! Buy a set of j hooks to hook center to the car . If you need to winch from one side use a snatch block. I personally will not mount a winch on deck mine are all on the front even with my tilt deck so i can always maximize my load capacity. My winch on my tilt deck tips up with deck like a roll back
LOL! I was on a rescue recently where my truck wouldn't fit to get this little Cherokee up and out of a mud hole. A flat fender with a synthetic rope came along in time to take over (I'm selling the Ram for a newer one and didn't want the job/damage) and I was not a believer in the synthetics. He said he LOVED his. And in three minutes his snapped! I had to figure-eight it back together after relieving about ten feet. It's tough to cut, but it snapped way earlier under load than wire rope does in my experience. You never see that stuff on a professional wrecker or 4x4 recovery truck. I never do. I always see it on tricked out Jeep club Rubicons etc.
So at the end there you were saying you thought your PJ was a better quality trailer than the Kaufman? I looked at a couple tilt bed trailers when I was shopping for a car hauler. Seemed like it added to much weight to the trailer which limited you on what you could haul on the particular trailers I looked at. That Kaufman doesn't seem as beefy in some ways as some of the trailers I looked at. What are the weight specs on something like that? I ended up getting a LoadTrail which is a sister company to PJ and basically the same trailer just different options. Love that trailer to death but I still wouldn't mind maybe upgrading someday to a tilt bed. Luggin my heavy ass ramps around are ok for now I am I am only in my high 30's but someday I won't be so young and agile! LOL
I sold a PJ flatbed with heavy duty 7' ramps. I was tired of cars belly-scratching at the top of the ramps and like you say I didn't care for hefting them long term. It was also more time consuming and noisy. This Kaufman is rated at 15,000 pounds. It's a rough ride unloaded, but great with an SUV or van on it. I do miss the build quality of the PJ. Much better fit and finish. It took a lot of work to get this trailer up to closer spec.
It would work better with the spring I have. And it would reduce ground clearance through dips/driveways/ramps etc. You're thinking right though! Way to be.
You know, a log chain does wonders for balancing this type of trailer. Heavy enough to tip it one way or the other and hold it there, but easy enough to grab off the deck and put back in the tool box. Besides, their also handy for chaining down your load, pulling a vehicle out, locking up valuable stuff, etc. Relatively cheap, too.
Also, I liked the spare tire mount idea, but I would have thought you'd put it off center, so it is easier to reach when you need it.
Great job setting up an awesome trailer. Congratulations, your life just got so much easier!
All that cool gear, all the safety equipment, makes me want to have a trailer just for the sake of having it.
I feel ya! I traded work for a chainsaw after watching an hour long show on maintenance and use. ; )
The Winch needs to be mounted in the center of trailer and then you can use a chain/strap to bridal the vehicle on both sides. Off setting the winch like that will make it harder to winch other things on the trailer. Sorry to me this is not a good way to do it.
From reading futher down I get the feeling that your saying that the rear of the trailer is going down to far which makes the ramps come up? If thats the problem. Just get you a good oak block(don't have to be oak) that you can slide under the rear of the traler that has 2-3 incches of space between top of the. Block and the bottom of the traler. This keeps trl. From being. Pushed down. If its to tight to pull out with a load on the trailer just pull up a few inches. Most of the blocks I carry have screen door handles on at least one end.,which makes it easier to pick up and carry. have a good day.
You are very correct, he is offsetting the winch because he doesn’t have a bridle😭🤣😭
The factory needs to talk to you about all of the corrections.
The factory needs to pay for for community improvements.
This always is a win / win.
We the community are testing these problems every day.
Could you add some diamond plate between the ramps to get the desired weight? Or maybe add the lift gate shocks from maybe a Suburban hatchback to the front of the trailer?
You're a smart guy Brian, keep up the good work!
My uncle and I have a similar trailer like this ran into the same problem, put the spare for balance under the trailer its an awesome idea worked great ... until you get into some steep ramps like pulling into parking lots and your tear the hole tire out I just want to warn you later on we took a 35lbs round work out weight and welded to under backside of the trailer not more problems , great setup love the vids keep them coming
Thanks for the video. Timely for me as I'm checking out trailer and considering a tilt bed. Nice work on the cleanup of the manufacturers work and relocation of the winch.
Thanks!
I had the same balance problem on my tilt bed, I made lead weights that fit into the stakes pockets that were removable to use tiedown for vehicle if nessisary. also mounted winch in center of bed, and used a chain to both corners of vehicle and then to winch hook, once loaded, the chain remained as tiedown to secure load. Just a thought :)
I have a setup about the same. I also had the same balance problem. I just changed my pivot points. Now I can micro adjust the bed. This was a good video with alot of good ideas about the winch placement.
Cool- tell me more about changing the pivot point and factors related to aproach angle, stability, strength etc.
On my flat trailer I went to a junkyard and scored a spare tire mount from the same brand pickup truck and mounted it underneath the tounge and was able to use the same tool that I used in my truck to lower it down and such. Best $20 I spent on mine.
LOVE IT!
On the 7-pole trailer wiring there is a 12v constant power source. If you tape into it and run it to the trailer winch battery, it will charge the battery in between loading and unloading vehicles. Video of where I got the idea. Utility Trailer With Custom Winch Mount & Lighting
GREAT IDEA! I did that. It goes to the little battery box and then charges my battery for the winch all the while it's attached to the truck. I love it! It's way better than that solar panel setup on my old PJ trailer. No more snow blockade.
Maybe could have mounted the winch in the middle with the cable going forward to a pulley then back to the car. sometimes some boards 2x10 to roll the wheels on holds the trailer down too, Thanks for the nice video, Pete
You need a Y bridle for going into the frame, that way you get 2 points of pull as you are loading.
I don't follow the idea of wanting the winch mounted off center, if there was an advantage to it, rollbacks would be that way. Even NRC mounts their winches on their rollbacks perpendicular on the side but the cable is fed to a center sheave so it still pulls from the center. All you need is a V bridle to hook into the tiedown holes or axle or A frames and you distribute the pull to both sides of the vehicle. I enjoyed your video but I just didn't understand the off center winch mounting.
Correct, he doesn’t know about bridles. He doesn’t know to hood a transport hook to the winch hook🤣🤣🤣 but, he is out here teaching auto transport, and offset winching🤣🤣
Very nice video thanks for posting.
I do hope you have figured this out by now tho. There are chains that you can by most anywhere they sell towing equipment that have hooks (different types of) that connect to a center ring. Hook to either side of loading vehicle. That keeps you from having to offset your winch. You should always keep your winch center. You can adjust the chain length to pull to either side of trailer. Also adding hook points down the sides of your trailer you can make use of a snatch block to pull vehicles into position if they are not already lined up with the trailer.
Message me if you have questions or here.
Exactly what I was thinking.
I have never seen a vehicle that had to be winched , by hooking to only one side point. Center the winch where it NEEDS to be and bridle the 2 points so you can pull from the center.
Just add some counter weight under the deck on the rear end. Build a box under the deck and add concrete to it until it balances out. As far at that goes strap a piece of 6 inch PVC across the tail end with caps glued on both ends and fill it with something until the bed tips back.
Need to install a damper valve on the cylinder. My trailer has a line that goes from the top to the bottom of the cylinder with an adjustable valve inline. I can lock the cylinder open (deck up), slow the deck from hitting down hard or lock closed (transport position). Look into it.
Hey Brian,make your truck a dual battery system and connect to winch with an anderson plug.
Battery stays charged if the trailer doesn't get much use.
Still keep battery case on trailer in case you need a different vehicle pull trailer.
To lock down your storage space fit a sliding or drop bolt on the top plate.
Those are some good ideas. Thank you!
weld a piece of short train rail to the underside of the ramp where it will still hit the ground correctly
Could you put 2 spares on and use some crank mechanism's for the spares from a wrecking yard to pull them up under the trailer. The spares would be easier to access and it would help put extra weight on the back of the trailer. plus it never hurts to have an extra spare. You may also be able to move them slightly forward for a little more ground clearance when bed is tilted. Nice job and good luck, good idea mounting winch on the bed also.
I also spent a little time rounding the sharp edges on my trailer. The time spent doing it will be money saved in the long run because you won't be ripping up your clothes.
On your spare tire mount, it's lower than I would like and difficult to access. Did you consider mounting it about the same place but from the top? You'd have to cut a hole about 3' square in the deck and then fabricate a "basket" to put the tire in, just deep enough so the edge of the spare is about flush with the deck. It'd require cutting the crossbars on the frame so you'd have to reinforce those too. Hope that makes sense...
Those oblong holes in the vehicle frame are specifically for T-post anchor points that a frame machine hooks up to, when straightening a frame after an accident. That is why they are all the same, on uni-body vehicles and vehicles with more substantial frames. They aren't really designed for a standard chain hook. If you use a standard chain hook it will tend to tear if you use too much force - like when extracting a stuck vehicle from a ditch without tightening the chain up first. A T-post with an offset hook eye is commonly used in those points. These are pretty cheap ($5), and will work better than the chain hook without tearing up the frame.
I don’t know much about frame straightening, but I’ve used T hooks when towing vehicles on a flatbed.
I recommend a set of Towing J Hooks or just a small piece of chain that can go from one side of the car to the other so that way you can always winch from the center and have everything going straight on
Had the same weight issue installing a winch. Simply added weight to the tail end to counter balance the winch.
Bolted two steel bars under the deck at the tail. I think 50 lbs @.
Use stainless steel spare tyre bolts, so that they do not rust solid when you want to use the spare. Nothing worse than trying to get that rusted bolt loose when you need it. Grease it as well, and take it off after fitting and use a grinder to remove thread on the extra bolt section so you have a smooth guide to both align the wheel and to lessen the threading required. Saves having to hacksaw it off when you want to use it. Been there done that.
Hope you have a jack that fits the trailer in the front lock box as well, or else you will find out the hard way.
I have a paramedic Hi-Lift jack that lifts the trailer no-problem. Good ideas!
Brian, what you should have done was welded half a chain link in the rear underside bottom edge of the tilting bed. Next, you weld the other half of the link under the trailer's frame then put a bungee cord between them. The cord would have tried to retract and since the bed has no where to go but down, it would have gone down. When you drive a car onto the ramp, the bungee cord would stretch but that's ok because they are supposed to stretch. You could have added a 12" length of light duty chain between the bungee cord and one end of the links in order to customize the pulling force by moving the bungee end up or down a link or two. They do these kinds of custom tension setups on the cable gyms I assemble. If the steel cable stretches, you just move the clip up one link on the chain.
It is simple, adds less than a pound and would have cost you 10 bucks for the piece of chain and a bungee cord.
Problem with your solution is, if you have to load a car on a slight hill or if there are rocks underneath the spare tire, the ramp won't go all the way down.
Great video Brian... Although that spare tire looks like a bear to get to and you know how dirty it will be by the time you need it. I think I would have gone with some old school hood springs mounted at the back of the trailer to help pull the tail down, or maybe some cheap workout weights from Wal-Mart. You could even make adjustable holders so you can mount them up front when you don't need that extra weight on the tail. Another option would be to extend that dove-tail a bit. The longer length might be an issue when getting it down your driveway if it's a super tight spot. Nice rig!
that car makes it easy. Those awd subarus always drive up ramps and stuff without any fuss. Try it with a front wheel drive accord or something, and you are slipping and rolling back and forth.
could you put a box that is recessed in the back somewhere to put chains and binders in to even the weight out?
as a custom trailer and pontoon house boat builder, the valve on the system you use to adjust your balance of the tilt deck,, that's what that proportioning valve is for as needed, , not adding weight or taking of weight, do what you need an adjust it also, don't be pulling off one side of a frame, specaly if one wheel is gone an have to drag it on, good way to twist things, ever see a roll back tow truck with the winch off to one side, no, it center of the deck, and you buy or make up a Y chain with J hooks on the ends of the chain and hook them around your front control arms right close to each wheel or on holes in frame meant for them, using the Y tow chain pull even on both side no mater how hard the pull is on one side as a wheel is gone, theem factory hooks wont take a hard pull specially only on one side, you have to pull even or you are going to do damage,, your spare tire is in a great place if your always loading on pavement, but most places there are big humps rock to cut up the tire on graval roads, and have to lay on your back in a mud hole in the rain to get your tire out.. good work though, every factory trailer they cut corners regardless of safety, I hate ohow poorly they are all made, and everything is sharp, that's why I started custom builds 34 years ago,, in fact it was right after a V tough broke off a factory trailer that was 3 weeks old on the hyw and the trailer went on its own killing a 17 year old on his bike
nice trailer brian. im looking for one that will do it all. it would be nice to have just one trailer for everything.
The balance problem is why I do not intend to use a bleed cylinder on the car hauler I will be building. A hydraulic cylinder with a 4-way valve and a small pump with remote gives total control up or down. Well worth the extra cost I think.
Add some rear hatch lift gate gas shocks to the front would have made a nice clean setup to offset the weight of the winch.
Those little oval holes are T-Hook holes,if you were to buy a proper V Bridal with J Hooks, T Hooks, and Mini J Hooks, you would be able to hook to both sides of the car with the bridal and then the winch cable would end up dead center of the vehicle and you the vehicle would be way more secure when loaded, and you could have put the winch in the center of the trailer where it belongs. Also the whole spare thing works great on flat level ground but doubt it would work so great on a really uneven surface.
Good idea finish the middle of working on your trailer because from the factory they just hack it off and paint it really a hazard that's exactly what I do and 15 minutes of your time is really a great finishing reward, I like Smooth.
Nice trailer by the way
🙏🙏
could you have moved the front spare tire mount to the back instead of making one under the bed of the trailer? Or would it just be in the way for you?
Did you consider something like trampoline springs behind the trailer frame to get the desired tilt you need for loading vehicles. This came to mind because a beaver tail usually has a helper spring to raise it off the ground.
That would have been a good idea. I hadn't thought of that.
Always mount your winch dead center of the trailor. Use a "Y" strap to attach a hook to each side of the frame or uni body. Using only 1 frame hole to support the entire load of vehicle is never a good idea. Especially in salty Michigan 😂💪👌
That lock setup is setup to use those round masterlock, looks like a hockey puk they use on trade vans.
Still will not work
another idea than to have the spare under there would be to weld extra strengthening tubing in the back to add the extra weight needed
do you think that maybe a safety chain or 2 needs to be on the frame up to the deck close to where the winch is mounted when winching something that is a hard pull to keep from damaging the deck?
Maybe you shoud try to put a gas pressurized shock absorber from a car at the front. It will help to keep the deck in loading position and absorb the hit when the deck goes down. It's just an idea....
It may be that you added weight to the front, with the winch, so, add weight to the back to keep the rear down.
You said you need 50 pounds of pressure to balance it out. What if you tacked 50lbs of weights to the tail end of the trailer? That would offset the winch weight if I'm following this correctly?!
Could you mount the spare tire on the side rear deck? What about some angle iron on the dove?
Only type of lock I can think of that would "fit" that space is a cable lock. Though those are way too easy to defeat, as a normal pair of scissors will cut through the thin cable no problem.
weld some solid steel to the frame in the back 20 lbs should be fine, having that tire there is going to be a pain when you hit stuff with it.
Haha same things I'm gonna have to do when I get my trailer. Mine is gonna be a gooseneck tilt similar to yours. I looked for video bout this stuff and couldn't find much. Thanks for the heads up!!
Do you have any problems with the battery cables dragging the ground? Im redoing my tilt trailer/winch battery set up.. and thinking of making a set of cables with quick connects to be plugged up when I use the winch. Also had the same problem with the tilting of the trailer.. I added weight to the end of the ramps, underneath... which will be relocated also.
best be careful with the unibody. mist of those holes are for frame measurement for assembly and body/frame repair. they are not meant for winching or tie down. best to use an extra chain and hook both sides to the cross member then hook winch cable.
Wow, NICE setup! I would cover up that winch with something to keep it out of the elements. Maybe cut the top off (or even bottom out) of a tool box and mount it over it.
Could you whack off the spare tire mount and weld it back onto the side of the trailer in the back. That would add weight to the A** and the tire would still be servicable. It would be nice if that dampener was adjustable, like a screen door dampener.
Those are some good ideas. I may implement something like that in the future.
This is a great trailer, wish I had one. Good idea to grind down the sharp edges.
Thanks- yeah, working in the cold weather as I often do you discover sharp things much easier. You're more mentally dull, traction is less, and everything hurts a lot worse.
... always thinking ahead.
Why not add 50 lbs ballast to the ramp ends; 1/2 cu ft of concrete in ramps should work. They must be hollow? good luck
So using the spare tire actually keeps the trailer down even with winch up front?
Hey Brian, good vid. I was wondering what the wheel base measurement is of that exact trailer.
Thanks and God bless you...
for the lock, use the one that looks like a hockey puck.
Question I watched your harmonic balancer removal video .Does that kit you bought also install the harmonic balancer? I'm getting ready to reinstall mine and I'm not sure how to go about it .Thanks.
Would seem like a no brainer to weigh the winch then add that much weight to the rear. Running the winch on center & not worrying how the cable winds on can be simplified by using 2 connection points on the car & attach the winch in the center.
Just use a piece of steel or lead equivalent to the weight of the winch and bolt it under the deck towards the rear where u need the weight compensation just like adding weight to a race car where u need it
Mount winch in middle and use a bridle like what is used on a flat bed tow truck and the winch will wind up evenly as well as pull the vehicle up with even force on the attaching points.
Also noticed you did not have a 4 point tied own on the car. What would happen if the strap on the back broke or the winch malfunctioned and the cable came loose?
I thought you would know better after your trailer towing safety videos.
Could also added a couple more cross members at the back of trailer for the added weight to compensate for the weight of the winch.
My rear restraint has evolved to chains and a binder in the rear, but I could certainly improve my front security. Kudos to you for catching that!
At time 5:53 you can see C channel that I had planned to add to the back like you say. I just hated the idea of adding weight that I paid good money for-- reducing capacity and adding boiyoiyoing to the back section like a weighted diving board.
briansmobile1 I use those 2 in. ratchet straps with transport clusters for hooking to the vehicle with my trailer and use on on each corner of the vehicle, they are much easier and lighter to use than chain&binders.
Hello Brian you could always weld some flat stock under the load ramps to make up the weight deference.
Did you weld square tubing or channel to your trailer to mount your winch ?
C of G problem. Just an idea..... .water is heavy so maybe the beaver tail could contain a slim tank either side with just the right amount of water to restore the balance, Then re-mount the spare back up front.
I thought about that, but when it gets cold here it would break the tails as the water freezes and expands.
What happens when you need to load a car with the trailer pointed downhill, does the tail still stay down?
Curious how hard it would be to set it up with a hydrolic proportional valve instead or even a small 12volt pump and just send it up load the car and drop it afterwards
I was thinking weights from like a dumbbell and stick them in three little diamond plate ramp spots
Very nice setup.
Thanks.
Have you thought about buying a used rollback and fixing it up?
I have. I had one lined up for $12K, but they're not as good for lock-outs, jump starts, 4x4 recoveries etc. I really like the flexibility and available parking by not having one.
What did this trailer cost you? Did you buy it directly from them and picked it up or had them shipped it? How much was shipping if so?
Add ballast to underside of trailer . Will balance problem
Weld a 3/4 plate if steel on the back of each ramp problems solved
Like the setup, good job!
If you ever get a chance could you please make a video about electronic trailer brake controllers? I would like to learn about them.
YES! I have some footage, but want to do some more research before I do a video.
I know this is old hey brian I am looking at this same trailer is it worth it ? was it a good trailer and I am looking at the 22ft one do you think its strong euff if I had say a RZR on the front half and one on the back half there's a lot of hang over In the rear is it strong euff to handle weight on the rear end of the trailer thanks
Have you had any issues with the tire hitting anything?
What is a good durable paint that you would use to paint a trailer?
Nice. Good attention to detail. Thank you.
Use a shutter lock on the tool box. It'll work perfectly.
You didn’t record yourself loading a none running vehicle with the winch on the tilt trailer?
you could put a plastic cover over winch to protect it
What is the deck height, and are the axles straight or dropped?
OK so I am going to be modifying my trailer this spring to give me a better approach angle.. what is it on your and have you had any problems thus far with it?
+DillysADV This trailer was comissioned by the owner of the company for hauling his Corvette to the race track. Then they made a heavier duty version with bigger axles which is what I have.
Nice video. I don't have a trailer but will sometime. Lots of nice points. Just wondering what you paid for trailer and winch. Thanks.
What name brand security camera is that Brian?
All those hook points you showed on all the vehicles are tie down points ment to keep a vehicle in place during transport.... you never want to really pull from those it's not what they are meant for. With little rolling resistance it would probably be ok... but you can definitely rip open a unibody chassis using those points to pull on.
Could you make a track along the whole front of the trailer that your winch could slide side to side
YES! But for it to be stong enough to work, you'd have to have a HEAVY rail piece that would require a lot of counter weight at the back end too. That could reduce your capacity.
you could always add gym weight to the bottom 2 -45lb weight would work
What I would do is add a steel plate on the back counter act the weight of the trailer
Always winch from center!!! Buy a set of j hooks to hook center to the car .
If you need to winch from one side use a snatch block.
I personally will not mount a winch on deck mine are all on the front even with my tilt deck so i can always maximize my load capacity.
My winch on my tilt deck tips up with deck like a roll back
hi brain isn't synthetic rope not saver than steel cable for winch ??? and great video nice
LOL! I was on a rescue recently where my truck wouldn't fit to get this little Cherokee up and out of a mud hole. A flat fender with a synthetic rope came along in time to take over (I'm selling the Ram for a newer one and didn't want the job/damage) and I was not a believer in the synthetics. He said he LOVED his. And in three minutes his snapped! I had to figure-eight it back together after relieving about ten feet. It's tough to cut, but it snapped way earlier under load than wire rope does in my experience. You never see that stuff on a professional wrecker or 4x4 recovery truck. I never do. I always see it on tricked out Jeep club Rubicons etc.
Nice work. How bout a cover for the winch?
lol I had a pizza box for a couple months. I bought vinyl fabric, but haven't had the time yet.
Have you thought about using, assister rams from an old tailgate bud.
Add some ballast in the rear of the trailer
Nice work on the Trailer , thanks for posting your videos they are very helpful for us d.i.y er's
no ramps included! I want one now.. thumps up!
So at the end there you were saying you thought your PJ was a better quality trailer than the Kaufman? I looked at a couple tilt bed trailers when I was shopping for a car hauler. Seemed like it added to much weight to the trailer which limited you on what you could haul on the particular trailers I looked at. That Kaufman doesn't seem as beefy in some ways as some of the trailers I looked at. What are the weight specs on something like that? I ended up getting a LoadTrail which is a sister company to PJ and basically the same trailer just different options. Love that trailer to death but I still wouldn't mind maybe upgrading someday to a tilt bed. Luggin my heavy ass ramps around are ok for now I am I am only in my high 30's but someday I won't be so young and agile! LOL
I sold a PJ flatbed with heavy duty 7' ramps. I was tired of cars belly-scratching at the top of the ramps and like you say I didn't care for hefting them long term. It was also more time consuming and noisy. This Kaufman is rated at 15,000 pounds. It's a rough ride unloaded, but great with an SUV or van on it. I do miss the build quality of the PJ. Much better fit and finish. It took a lot of work to get this trailer up to closer spec.
One word, jealous!!!
What if you mount the dampener a little steeper
It would work better with the spring I have. And it would reduce ground clearance through dips/driveways/ramps etc. You're thinking right though! Way to be.
Great trailer
Thanks Tim. I'm getting happier with it all the time.
Another great vid!
Thanks Spanks!