Fast Exposure Change | Ask David Bergman
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- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- Today's question from Candice R. is, "I know you shoot a lot of concerts where the light is changing constantly. How do you get the proper exposure in that situation? Do you shoot auto exposure?"
Go to www.AskDavidBergman.com to submit your own photo question, see David's gear list, and view the episode archive.
00:00 Intro
01:05 Key to making great action photos
02:18 Exposure is the foundation of photography
03:12 Auto exposure or manual?
04:30 Exposure settings for fast-changing light
05:30 Eliminating exposure variables
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THANKS SO MUCH FOR WATCHING! - Навчання та стиль
David, I like it. It seems to me true knowledge about anything is when you can teach it "simple." The less we know the more complicated we make it. When you said Bergman Brightness Button, I laughed because I heard Bourbon Brightness Button.😎🤙
That's what I heard, too!
LOL, me too.
That might work too - as long as your auto focus is on. :)
Lol.. I heard the exact same thing!!
@@anandk199 Glad I wasn't alone in hearing "bourbon"! Depending on how much you've had, the brightness will certainly change!
I LOVED the Ronco infomercial growing up! "Set it, *audience* And forget it!"
Just brilliant! Thanks and Happy New Year.
You are a great teacher and if I was into that type of photography, and lived in that neck of the woods, I wouldn't hesitate to take your workshop. You and Gavin Hoey are the reason I subscribe to Adorama.
Incredibly helpful. I know it’s difficult to give up next level tips. Thank you for sharing this.
Terrific explanation of a practical and valuable methodology, David. Can't wait to try it. Thanks and happy New Year!
Great advice David, thanks for always finding an easily understandable way to explain a complex topic.
I did this shooting the kids in the family opening presents in a low light basement on Christmas Eve and it worked great.
Thanks David, sometimes things are so simple you just don't realize how easy they are. Excellent advice. Please keep up the good work. Best regards, Andy
Great Monday a swer David. That's exactly what I do for the few concerts I've shot, as well as weddings I shoot. I find my happy spot and then adjust shutter speed to match what I'm thinking.
Awesome technique. Thank you David..
Thanks for sharing that. Makes sense and should be simple to do after a little practice.
No doubt, a very nice question and absolutely an excellent reply, it's great.
lovely .... simple ..to the point presentation..thanks for making things simple...
I'm totally digging my new "Bergman Brightness Button"! Thanks!
Thanks David! I'm new to photography and find your videos very educational and easy to follow.
Variations on a theme: shooting birds both static and flying on one shoot I pre-select (depending on conditions on the day) two sets of exposure options on two different back button focusing buttons (5D MkIV). This allows me to quickly change from static birds in dark bushes to brightly lit birds in flight without thinking. I can also include exposure compensation should this be required in the case of birds against white clouds. Takes some practice but after while it becomes instinctive to switch between buttons depending on what the bird is doing.
Smart!
All fo that makes perfect sense. Sometimes I go to festivals and take photos of dancers and sometimes I find myself messing around with the settings trying to find the right exposure etc. I am going to take what you said and try to apply it next time
Nice, a quick 14min video and now I know what presets are for on the command dial. 👍
YEP, great idea! ! I have been doing it that way for years!
Great video!
I constantly adjust the shutter speed dial during concerts. Sometimes I use the exposure meter display in the view finder as a hint for my settings.
In my experience, you can fix about 2-3 f-stops of incorrect exposure in post, at least with modern sensors (e.g. on my current Fujifilm X-T4).
I like the BBB. Great tip. Thanks David.
Hey David, I just did a event in Miami with different light. So I raised my ISO to 6400, F/4.5 & 1/200 with the help of flash. I wish I had seen this video. My photo came out very good. Thank you 😀😀
Thank You David! This is exactly what I was looking for. Build a method\system to get set, but focused on the action. Cheers Carlos (sports photographer).
Yep, that's a key! I manually exposure between the shots when I worked on the images. Like an instance of lighting up on the light bulbs. I've learned a lot. LED bulbs are not best practicable shots because of flickering hit or frame rate changes (seen the light fixture, TV, or monitors). Pretty much all covered what David have said. King of photographers 👑📸👍🏽
Brilliant advice thanks 👌
Great stuff David - thanks for sharing something that logically lives inside your paid workshops. It's so easy to approach concert photography by fixing shutter speed and aperture, and letting auto ISO deal with the exposure for you. I love your alternate method and will need to try it out next time I find myself in front of some musicians. :)
As I said in the video, even auto ISO means the camera is deciding your exposure. I prefer to set it manually. Glad you're enjoying!
Great tip, thank you.
I've set my camera similarly to the way you shoot for concerts in the past and it really works well. That said I don't always shoot that way if the performers are erratic and moving about a lot. In those situations I'll lock aperture manually to it's widest and set shutter speed to something that will freeze motion. Usually I'll set it to at least 1/500th sec or even 1/1000th sec. This is where I'll ride my ISO and given I simply cannot change it quick enough I utilise Auto-ISO and trust the camera to set it for me. I'm normally a control freak when it comes to settings, preferring to shoot full manual all the time but honestly I can't keep up with the on stage action and be fussing about with any settings at all in that shooting circumstance. My rational is I can fix a noisy image in post, I can fix a slightly over or underexposed image in post but I can't fix a blurry image in post 😉
And, on most camera systems, you are able to set your auto ISO range. So, using your method with a reasonable ISO range set by you for your environment and camera can be a fast way to get the shot under these pressures while still getting very clean images straight out of camera. I used basically this exact method in my wildlife photography.
Very good. Thanks.
Ahh, David, too funny, man. I love the "Bergman Brightness Button" and it was really good of you to share this method with us. And your experience speaks volumes, don't question success, right?! Thank you.
This is great help, cheers
Bergman Brightness....Love it!
really helpful video
Bergman brightness button,I will save it!
Thanks ☺️
As a Canon user.
Wow... I watch the whole video. I can't believe Dave didn't mention canon's mirrorless FV mode, put iso on auto, pick your shutter & aperture, put your focus point on your target. And there's your exposure right there. That method, saves me time in post production.
Auto ISO is letting the camera pick the exposure of the shot. He said he wants to decide the exposure, therefore he’s not going to use auto ISO.
In the workshop, he said that it is very easy to use the BBB so why rely on the camera.
My typical shooting practice is to use auto ISO, which lets me choose both the shutter speed and aperture for my own creative purposes. The relatively small ISO changes don't really affect the picture. For average scenes I use matrix metering and if I need to increase or decrease the exposure I just make that change using exposure compensation. I always shoot RAW, which is another important step in getting an exposure that looks good. Using this method I never have a bad exposure for average scenes. The only change I make for special situations is the metering pattern. Last year I was shooting tennis - the players were in bright sunlight (most of the time) but the backgrounds were dark, so I switched to a narrower metering pattern or sometimes went to completely manual exposure.
Glad it works for you. I still prefer manual and don't let the camera make those decisions. In daylight, for example, the light isn't really changing. Just set it and forget it.
Experimenting with the 50mm f/1.8 with the Viltrox speed booster taught me something: the speed booster tells the camera the 50mm lens is now 35mm. That's ok in terms of range of view, but the camera gets tricked into thinking it can get away with a slower shutter speed because it associates that lower focal length with a shorter lens that wouldn't have as much sway when hand held. I force the camera to keep the shutter speed higher so it's appropriate for the length of the 50mm lens with the adapter and I get less motion blur as a result.
Hahahah I am new and that is what i do now. Bergman Button works great for quick control. Love this :) THANK YOU
thnx for the tips.
Same :-) iso is set, aperture is fully open, tickle the shutter speed & jiggle in LR if needed later :-)
Piggin Nora, I THOUGHT I knew about photography. That's fantastic advice, thank you very much 😎
I totally agree expirience learned me the exact same thing :)
I mainly shoot landscape so I have my C1 function button settings set to F10, ISO100 and auto shutter speed using exposure compensation to adjust to my taste.
Do you have this setting in FV mode since you mentioned the auto shutter speed?
BBB FTW!!!! And, FWIW, I’m 100% in for another SFTP workshop!!!!! Was a GREAT experience!!!!!
See you then!
I do something similar but I set my ISO to auto with a max of 6400. Just like you, I set my aperture ahead of time (usually wide open) and set my dial to shutter speed. This way, I’m setting the speed while also watching the resulting ISO number. I’m shooting on a Canon M50 ii where 6400 ISO is “tolerable” but if I can get it under 1000 ISO with proper technique and shutter speed, there is a massive difference in picture quality, even on Instagram.
Love your videos. Keep it coming :)
-Chad
great tips as usual David.....with the cameras Fn buttons so programmable these days another option is to set a Fn button to 'recall camera settings' - which were previously saved.....not as flexible as your method but useful for when you might be shooting in sun/shade together......
I recently did a video about exactly that! I think it's overkill if you only need to change one setting like shutter speed. But for more than one, register / recall is the way to go! ua-cam.com/video/a-AO4p_kAwI/v-deo.html
It doesn't appear that you read the comments, so I'll keep this short. Picked up my first camera 4 years ago. I feel a measure of how far my understanding and knowledge of shooting has grown was the fact that I knew and said the answers to your questions before you asked them (i.e. what not to mess with first: ISO). I know this is part preference and part style. That said, I found the summary answer to the question helpful especially going forward, and for that I thank you. There are too many channels on UA-cam with useless information that will improve your thinking as a photographer. Many thanks to you and Candice (and Ron "set it and forget it"). All for eliminating as many variables as possible.
Reading this! :) Thanks for the nice comment - it is appreciated.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto LOL. Thanks for coming back, even one year later. Finally moved to mirrorless - because the camera and technology finally gave me a reason. Experience and knowledge base continues to get better. I might even watch this video again, as sometimes I pick up new information the second time through. ;-) Thanks again!
Excellent video.
The neat thing about trying David's BBB method is that if you are shooting in raw format (you ARE shooting in raw, right? Right?!), you'll have a little wiggle room in post to get just the right exposure on your images.
I plan on trying this method when I go birding. Fix the ISO to something high enough to help me with stopping motion (probably around 1000 will be a good starting point) and then keep the aperture as wise as I can possible get it for sharp subject/softer backgrounds. That leaves me SS as my BBB. Looking forward to trying that this week.
Thanks, David!!
Of course RAW all the way! :) Good luck with the birdies.
It's all relevant and valid, David - and let me add a few things. You using the Bergman Brightness Button (shutter, exposure time) to adjust exposure during a shoot (concert) is greatly helped by a mirrorless camera that shows you in the viewfinder what your photos will look like. The optical viewfinder of a DSLR will not do that. I would also lock white balance (WB) to a fixed value. As you shoot raw (I guess) the WB number is just a label used by LrC/CR or C1 to open you file but the image data does not change anyway. So, locking WB takes computational load (latency) away from the camera. Now imagine you shoot Auto-WB, outdoors, on a summer day, starting early at sunrise and ending at sunset. The Auto-WB will take a lot of the colour spectacle away that indicates when the photo was taken: the early AM shot will look less warm, the shots in the shade at sunset look less blue, the middle of the day direct sunlight looks less hot because the blue is less. To some extent, auto exposure does that too.
As to "grain", you no doubt have become aware that a grainy image needs less depth of field, or better gets aceptable depth of field at a wider aperture because the circle of confusion is bigger?
As to variable aperture zoomlenses, considering you shoot with more than one camera body, what about two bodies each with a prime lens in the f/1.2 .. 1.8 range?
And, does your approach still work when stage lights change all the time - can you, do you, work with the band's stage manager (whatever the job title) about light levels used in the different light setups?
Note to self, David points to the mirrorless in the end of the video.
I shoot autoWB since changing it in post is no different then setting it in-camera and I know I'm going to change it anyway. I've never noticed any latency by shooting auto WB. Yes - any auto exposure setting will "average" out your images throughout the day - which is another reason I shoot manual and set it how I want it to look. Primes are not usually practical at concerts since you can't always change your position and "zoom with your feet." Zooms give you more options to shoot.
Thanks David, good points. Just my two cents: I shoot theatre (i.e. stage lighting) and musicians in a studio setup (i.e. dimmed light) and I find that if I lock my exposure (around 1/125) and open as wide as I can and leave my ISO on auto, then nine out of ten pics come out with a decent ISO and with zero/minimum motion blur, so most photos will be usable. But I will try your method to see if it works for me.
Your method makes more sense RR, I wouldn't change it.
For theatre, what do you think of trying to be faithful to the creative intent of the production? I did my first theatre shoot recently and I locked in the entire exposure triangle based on the most used level of stage lighting at the beginning of the show. When the lighting changed I didn’t change my exposure because it’s the intent of the production for the lighting to be that dark or bright for a given scene (nothing was so dark or bright that my camera didn’t catch it).
Agree. Auto ISO everyday. I also like a -2/3 exp comp adjustment. Then I can just run whatever shutter and aperture I like. The key to good stage photography is deffiately set and forget though.
If you get 9 out of 10 right, then 100 out of every 1,000 will be off. I prefer manual.
@@GeoChild Interesting. I suppose it depends on your style and what the client wants / expects.
Thanks for the tip David! Why wouldn't you set the dial to ISO and lock aperture and shutter speed? If you want to freeze action you might not want to fiddle to much with shutter speed, especially on the lower end. Beginner here, so apologies if I am missing something 😅
In my experience at concerts, there are times when I have maxed out my ISO as far as I want to go, but still have to lower my shutter speed down below where I'd like in a dark situation. There really is no choice. Let's say, 6400 ISO, f/4, and 1/60. Being able to go down to 1/60 still gives me hope of making an image. If I'm locked at 1/500 and f/4, I'm not going to want to raise my ISO to 51,200 to make that image. So I prefer to ride my shutter speed instead.
I'm not only non-professional photographer, but I even not consider myself amateur. I just learn to be one... But somehow I came to this one variable to deal with exposure without even realising it... Good to know that I'm on the right way of thinking...
Loved your #shootfromthepit workshop and used theses tips successfully. And true: Dave is always looking to see if band members pull a Crazy Ivan.
LOL!
I use aperture or shutter priority. Depending on which I need to control.
I use Auto ISO and I set the limit max to ISO 3200. I lock in the Aperture and adjust the shutter speed as you do.
Cool!
Such a simple tip that can make a huge difference in the ratio of good pictures vs unusable, and spending countless hours fixing exposure issues in Lightroom is a nightmare for me. I can't stand it when retouching takes 2, 3 or 4x the amount of time of the shooting. I'm a photographer not an infographist after all.
Most people will prolly 1st lock Aperture which makes sense, but then lock shutter in 2nd and use Auto ISO and while it isn't a bad idea, I think the Bergman method is even better and accurate, at least if you want more control without overcomplexifying the process. Camera these days are wayyy better than when I first started 12 years ago on a (Canon T1i). The improvement was already huge when I went from APS-C to my first full frame (5D MKII) then small upgrade to the (6D) but once I went mirrorless with the (R6)... Wow, the gap was night and day, at least as much as when I went full frame for the very first time!
Softwares like Lightroom also improved big time since 2010 as for auto noise correction on import without losing details so there's no more reasons to be scared of using ISO 6400, and after all that will always be much better than a blurry image.
Great tips.... I'm also doing the same technique. Haha.... I just thought it make sense. So been doing it for many years... Cause when I started learning photography. I shoot with a Canon F1 film camera... So after I upgrade to a DSLR then i just automatically do it
I’m curious when and if people set the shutter speed and aperture for the subject and then use Auto ISO to ensure proper exposure from shot to shot. That’s been my preference for most of my photography with the exposure compensation set to underexpose a little to avoid blown out highlights.
A lot of people use Auto-ISO, but like I said, that still means the camera is determining how bight or dark your image should be. I prefer to make the decision myself by setting all three parts manually.
I did long ago. Issue I had was the exposure is set by the subject at the focus point. Say I'm capturing a white dog with black spots around its eyes. If I focus on the eyes, auto ISO will set exposure for an all black dog and I'd blow out the dog's white nose, ears,and body.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto I think it’s also helpful to mention that shooting RAW is important if you go the Auto ISO route to ensure images can be recovered. That way the shooter is effectively back in control so long as they don’t blow out the highlights beyond the lowest native ISO’s range limit.
@@GOAP68 change the metering mode. use matrix instead of spot metering
Here's another reason I'd leave ISO at one point. This is something you could never change in the days of film without changing the roll of film. Aperture and shutter speed were the only two you could change fairly quickly. Anyone remember hypering film to get 1600 lol.
Did you flip your shutter and aperture dials? I shoot Sony and the front dial by default is aperture. Love how your method allows you to keep the back button focus engaged while changing the shutter speed. Love the Bourbon Brightness button!
It's "Bergman Brightness Button," but "Bourbon" might be better. :) And yes - I have my dials set for SS on the top.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto oh! Haha. I thought maybe the bourbon was making things a little dark. Even better. Cheers!🥃
Great video. You covered a LOT in a short time but it was all GOLD Jerry, GOLD! But how do you check your last shot when you're composing the next? How do you set your camera for image review?
I try not to look at my images too often. If using a mirrorless, I can see the exposure change as I'm shooting and changing my shutter speed. If on a DSLR, I can just hit the playback button and quickly review the last frame.
The Bassist is in my shot again!
good!
My system is similar. I lock iso and aperture but let the camera automatically select shutter speed. I lock the exposure to the auto focus point. Typically my camera can get a lock on the face which gives me a properly exposed face.
Y9ou just need to make sure your AF point is always on the face. I prefer to have the flexibility to focus and re-compose so I simply lock exposure on full manual.
a/ This is your best show this year. b/ I'll call in Bak's Brightness Button -- BAK
How would you set the metering mode? Would SPOT METERING be a good choice for concerts?
When shooting manual, metering is irrelevant. I never look at it and have no idea what it's set at.
David: "No one cares about ISO noise"
The internet: "Am I meaningless to you?"
In all seriousness though, I've said it a million times. An imperfect but compelling image always beats a boring technically perfect image.
On the subject of changing exposure, while I love the old school controls on my Fuji's and my work stuff is all lit with carefully metered lights, I pretty much do the same thing as you for shutter speed(but on the rear dial due to Fuji quirks) when shooting outdoors without flash. As you stated, with a mirrorless camera it is just so easy.
David, what about locking in the shutter speed and aperture and setting the ISO to auto? That way you really don't have to think about anything except what's in front of the camera.
Auto ISO let's the camera decide how bright or dark your image should be. I prefer to set all 3 settings so that I'm the one making the decisions.
I'm going to use this method for Lindsey Stirling concert I'm shooting. I think it will make it much easier with her constant movement
So, do I understand that you change the function of the BBB (Bergman Brightness Button) from shutter speed to aperture when conditions call for it? The example you gave was panning when you would change the aperture.
Yes. I don't physically change the dial's function, but I will use whatever remaining setting (like aperture) to quickly adjust for exposure changes.
Full auto. Seriously. But if it is defaulting to low shutter speed, then shutter priority. I use center exposure and meter to expose for the brightest spotlight. In a concert situation, part of the arena will be black so there is no need to recover all the information from the shadows.
Hi David,
quite a good method but why make things unnecessarily hard?
Set your camera to auto iso and use exposure compensation for the look you want:
If you want dark and moody set some -ve exposure compensation
If you want bright and happy set +ve
Thanks
Noel
Because I don't want the camera deciding exposure for me (which is does if you're on Auto ISO).
David, the first seven minuted of your video waisted on non related to the subject. I like your posts as they are helpful. I would go direct to the subject
I always like to give some background so everyone understands what I'm talking about. That's also why we put chapter markers in the description. You can skip right to the part you want. :)
What about Auto ISO?
for Concert
If you use auto-anything, then the camera is deciding your exposure. I prefer to be in manual.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto Thank you
I find it VERY useful, in these situations, having the ISO in Auto mode. This way I can concentrate on either aperture or shutter speed, depending on what is.more critical for that shot.
What do you think about it?
I don't like to auto exposure anything, because the camera is making the decision on how bright or dark your image should be.
If your at F4, how do you control Focus? Subjects are moving or perhaps you want people at the side? Or some object in focus, and the rest blurred?
That's a different video, but I always want the face in focus.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto Actually in my 65 years of experience (I got my Argus 75 TLR-127 at age 9), that is not always the case. Sometimes you want to focus on the foreground objects and let the band (or whatever subject) be blurred. I'm now using an R5. I find that the joystick works great but is really slow. Furthermore going from horizontal to vertical can take up gobs of time just to find it. Do you have a video to tame this situation? (BTW: I'm using firmware 1.5 now.)
Doesn't aperture affect depth of field? So wouldn't it be better to have a larger number aperture to get a longer DOF? Or is it the opposite, you want a smaller depth of field to focus on the singer?
I prefer to focus on the singer and have a shallow DOF.
Try the B B Button. Great way to keep things simple when shooting action scenes on stages and outdoors. Systems work when one is in the zone of the event not on the camera. Just have keep in mind and fall into old bad habits. Thanks David. Ps B Bright button might work
Almost 90% of the time all the action seems to take place on the other side of the stage. And they have their back to you. And when you move over to that side, all the action moves to the side you were standing at. Is there anything you can do to improve your chances of been on the right side?
LOL I wish! Clone yourself? :)
Shoot in the dead center middle - all blocking and choreography plays to a viewer that is just a above the head level of the back row of the orchestra level. So I like to shoot standing on a ladder/chair top at the back of the lowest level, especially of the have a center aisle.
👍👍👍
But don’t you risk a blurry shot by slowing down the shutter speed?
Yes, but if it's super dark, then you have to do whatever you can if you're already at your widest aperture and highest "usable" ISO. Nowhere else to go except slowing down your SS. Then shoot a lot of bursts and hope you get a few without motion.
Why not manual mode with auto iso? Then you can choose your aperture and shutter and let the camera take care of fluctuating iso
I agree, that way your exposure is correct as the camera can react much faster than you can and use exposure compensation for the look you want.
In any fast action scenario you don't have time to play with dials and if you find the images are too dark or too light just tweak the exposure compensation as required.
Also always exposure for the highlights as if they're blown out too much it's impossible to recover that detail in post.
Personally, I don't want the camera making that decision. By reducing down to one dial, I can adjust very quickly on the fly.
@@DavidBergmanPhoto you can choose a priority then and ride exposure compensation when you want to artistically change up the exposure, most of the time you will set you intention and auto iso will keep it regardless of light changing
☺️
Hi 👋 David I have this problem I don’t know if I am d only one ☝️ I have a pc computer I am using Luminar Ai the problem that I have is when I editing my pictures every time I do something whit the pictures I get a copy on my pc pictures if I do 100 editing touch up to my pictures I get 100 copies on my pc pictures app what can I do to stop the duplicate pictures I get when I color grating my raw pictures please help SOS 🆘
I use Mac and don't work in Luminar.
L A T E G A N G ! 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
- Swole Beast🤙🏽🙏🏽✌🏽
B L E S S I N G S 2022 G A N G ! 😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍
But wait, there’s more !
There's literally no difference between shooting manual in this way and using shutter or aperture priority and exposure comp.
It's completely different. In manual, YOU decide how bright/dark your image should be. In Av or Tv, the camera decides.
photography secrets in 2022, made me laugh
Triple BBB!
B-cubed. :)
Man you're old..."set it and forget it"???...LOL
You're old too, my friend. :)
What a headache listening. You could explain the same in one minute….