Building the SEPLOS MASON 280 DIY Kit - What a BEAUTY! Da-Da!
Вставка
- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- Today, we are building the SEPLOS MASON 280 DIY Kit. From scratch to finish. Even it is a DIY kit which comes with all the parts, it is still a lot of work. And challenge. Especially, if there is no real installation guide. I made the best out of it and just followed what we learned form the first MASON built.
During our work, I explain all details of building this battery. We also got some headwind and have to repair a few battery terminals. Unbelievable how many are now stripped an faulty of this 'old' battery. No big deal and it is quickly repaired.
At the end everything seemed to have worked well and the battery built is now complete. Not quite, there are more problems with this kit. When I tried to turn it on,...
LiFePO4 cells for this DIY Kit:
off-grid-garag...
SEPLOS MASON Battery DIY Kits:
off-grid-garag...
Battery Terminal thread repair kit:
off-grid-garag...
Digital torque adapter:
off-grid-garag...
Squishy foam, "EVA tape":
off-grid-garag...
Building the Seplos MASON 6.9 Kit:
• SEPLOS MASON 6.9 Kit. ...
Complete Playlist of the #Battery3.0:
• Battery 3.0
Please subscribe and join me on my journey of the Off-Grid Garage!
For more information, please check out my website with links to all the batteries, materials, devices and products I have used in my videos: off-grid-garag...
The 'Buy me a Beer🍻'-link is here (on the website, scroll all the way down):
off-grid-garag... Thank you for your support!
You can also click on the Thanks button under the video to support the channel. Thank you, if you have already!
T-Shirts, caps, mugs and more in our merch-shop:
off-grid-garag...
**** These are the batteries you are looking for ****
🔋➡EVE LF280/304 LiFePO4 cells 3.2V/280+304Ah: off-grid-garag...
🌞➡Solar charge Controllers, Inverters and accessories: off-grid-garag...
🔧➡Tools, Analysers and Testers: off-grid-garag...
📈➡ Battery Tests and Results: off-grid-garag...
🔌➡Batteries, charger and accessories: off-grid-garag...
⚡➡Cables, Inverters and Electronics: off-grid-garag...
Get 5% off when buying Bluetti all-in-one Power Storage Products!
off-grid-garag...
Great "Next Gen" AOLithium Batteries (4000 cycles, Bluetooth, CALB cells)
aolithium.com/...
The Sunfunkit DIY battery. Great product to build your own 12V battery. Use OGGA at checkout to get 6% off. Video Review: • The Sun Fun Kit Experi...
New to AliExpress? Use my referral code below to register and earn US$19 store credit. What a great start! a.aliexpress.c...
Take a live sneak peak at the Off-Grid-Garage in the Victron VRM World (link at top of the page):
off-grid-garag...
My other UA-cam channels:
/ offgridgarageaustralia
Please don't leave any nasty words or links in your reply. UA-cam will not publish your comment in this case.
I did the same terminal repair after seeing your previous video. You saved me big time! Thank you so much Andy!
Thanks a lot.
Many have complained about this method but I think it's brilliant. Quick, easy and safe!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia the only thing I'm a bit concerned about is the dielectric corrosion between aluminum and stainless steel
Hey Andy. Stack a second flexible jumper in the back. You’d be surprised at the residence difference between the buss’s and the cable. At higher charge/discharge rates you may get some weirdness between 8 and 9 if you don’t.
Hi Andy! A couple of suggestions. Just in case you haven't already found.
The busbar screwed to the positive terminals should be reversed. The thread on the opposite side. This way you'll have more contact area with the bar coming from the fuse.
The "chewing gum" is for better heat dissipation on the BMS. It is supposed to be installed between the front panel and the BMS's heat sink.
Kind Regards.
hah I was going to comment that same thing! I was waiting for him to realize his mistake. But at least I wasnt alone! good eye!
In my case (literally box) the heatsink of the BMS ist only 1-2mm away from the front plate. When I put that blue stuff in, the PCB will be bent extremely. AND! As I tried that, the thermolube of the heatsink was pushed to the outside :(. So, I decided to not use this chewing gum.
@35:30, if you reverse that metal busbar, the bridge connector to the fuse is too long, and not flexible enough to fit. It must be the way Andy shows it.
@@trevornelmes9331 I'm not sure if I understand what you mean. I've assembled a couple of this boxes this way. And there is no problem with the length. Only very slight curve on the bar.
@@vferrandobe Ah. I have one on its way. The front panel is a revised design. The power terminals are vertically arranged, as I look at the front the negative two are on the left and the positive ones on the right. The LCD is in the middle and looks different also. Supposed to be to allow vertical cabling runs easier. The connecting 'flexible bar has the busbar to join each terminal pair built in, so that positive bridge busbar is no longer there. The fuse is a different type as well. The front also has a power button, that goes to a jumper on the BMS. The cell busbars have insulation and are the 'flexible' type that has a hump in. The BMS has Bluetooth. They did me a really nice deal of ~ $700 delivered including UK taxes, 150A BMS and the trolley.
These high capacity batteries are nice from an energy storage point of view but there's more to think about than just that. You have to think about being able to physically move it and that's more than just putting it on a skateboard to wheel it around the workshop floor. How to get it into the eventual mounting position, by yourself, for example. That could well mean you need some sort of lifting machine, manually powered or otherwise and that adds onto the cost of the overall project. None-the-less, as usual always interesting to watch Andy at work.
Indeed, I've got a 24V 280Ah pack in my van. The cells and the box are 50kg. Just about manageable to move around but I wouldn't want it any heavier.
Some 🧀 to your 🍷
I'm thinking a Hoyer type patient lift (medical version of the automotive engine hoist)
I think if they are on the trolley, that's how I would install them.
But yeah, the weight is something I have on my list as well. You would need 3-4 people to lift it up now if it goes in an enclosure of any kind.
Very valid point.
At 35:40 you put the main positive bus bar upside down. The fixed nut on the bus bar makes very little contact with the flexible bus bar coming from the fuse.
I concur with Raymond. Along the same lines, you should also add at least one and preferably two more of the Digital Mermaid's flexible bus bars on the 8+/9- node. IIRC, her most recent bulk bus bar build was yielding 110 microohms each, whereas your Seplos aluminum bus bars are close to 1/3rd of this. 110 uOhms @ 150A that the BMS can do is 2.5 W of waste as heat - an unreasonably high value for only a few centimeters of wire.
Yes, that is correct. If I flip the busbar the flexible bus bar to connect to the fuse will be in a bad shape though.
Andy next time use a hex key on the head of the grub screw to hold it in place while you tighten down the hex nut, otherwise you might end up with more stripped terminals.
I have the same box and put it together a little over a month ago. I opted to use the busbars that came with the EVE280 cells instead of the Aluminum ones that were provided by Seplos (for reasons you already know!). Mine were shipped in the exact same s**t show way that yours were. I complained and never heard a thing back from them. To be honest they have some of the worst customer service and could care less after they get your money (my experience).
I also opted to replace the front connectors with Amphenol connectors as I couldn't find any information or links to buy my own connectors/crimps from the company who makes the ones they provided (futronics). I paid an arm and a leg for it though, but I wanted to be able to make my own length cable/connections.
I bought a hydrolic pump motorcycle lift to build these on and then lower and roll them into place :)
Thanks for sharing your experience. So far, I cannot complain about their service. Sometimes it does not make sense what they're replying but at least they reply. I will pass your feedback on to them!
The connectors are on my list for the verdict video. I don't like them either. Seems you can only buy them from Seplos directly for a lot of money. I'll have a look at some alternatives too.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I asked them multiple times about what connectors they use on the front but they didn't reply. I only found out when I received it. It also arrived damaged (cosmetic) with a large dent on the front and the "flying busbars" as I like to calls them, no response.
I like the units and they are well built, but I wouldn't trust them if I had issues.
@@hummmingbear just try to chat with them via whatsapp. I also face same difficulty as you. I tried to get details about these connectors, bcz I've to use custom battery cable length. After 2hrs I able to get right answer, that's meant they didn't help. The guy I contact he's very helpful to me. But he's not a technical guy, so he had to wait for his technical team response. By the way, they used 50mm square terminal for 200A BMS. He already sent me, tech specification for it.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Here they had not replied too, only before payment they had been very responsive. Beyond that there was silence. Luckily I had paid with paypal and if they do not get it done soon I will call paypal to open a full case, where they will have to pick the whole mess up. I do not need a discount on a broken product. I had fully paid and shippping can not be that hard . Have never seen such a bad shipping preparation for the parts inside.
Hey Andy, been following your channel for awhile. I just recently put together one of the Seplos Mason 280 and communications are working fine for me. FYI, when the battery is in a discharge state my capacity lights are on and my run light blinks green and the display is off. Both rs485 ports work for communication to the computer software. I have spent alot of time understanding this software and have pretty much mastered it and it's quarks. I modified the software files to fix alot of the bad English translations in the software. If you would like any help or access to the files to fix the translations let me know!
Hi Joe - Are you able to post those translation fixes in a google drive and share the link?
Andy try selecting "Pack1" in the BMS software. It may allow comm to battery to work.
Hey :) as u build already 5 of them and ordered another 10, some feedback from Germany.
Not everything is good at the DIY system (lacking manual), but not as bad as it looks. Usually they send the youtube link where you can see more than in the manual on the website -> a lot of room for improvement here for Seplos.
I used EVE 280AH cells from Docan, i put 5 or 6nm on the studs and none broke, maybe i was lucky, but for 80 cells ? Maybe yours were just bad. This time i will get 160 CATL cells, let's see.
The blue rubber pad is a Wärmeleitpad - thermal transfer pad. You have to remove the BMS and put that on the heatsink, it has exactly that size. I used the seplos bus bar as it measured better than the Docan busbars. My Seplos BMS is 200A Version.
For all screws that are preinstalled -> they are low quality and just for transportation, just throw them away, you have all new screens in the package (my "transportation" screws were already rusty ). The copper rings are used on the cells before adding the busbars. For my cells all busbars fitted. The cell cables, plug them into the BMS side first, then you dont need your condom solution, just plug them into the battery side as the 2nd step.
The new shipment include a cardbox with all materials, i already received a picture. My first 5 came as yours, awful, really really awful. One had a defect display, replacement came in around one week, really fast.
To connect the BMS to the PC, select cell 1 in the software, then press connect. Try dip 1 on if it still does not work. I think you have one foam left over for each side, there has to be 2 on he first cell behind the steel plate -> then the screw is long enough to put 8-9nm pressure.
Improvement they need to do from my side:
- packaging (maybe already fixed)
- a really good manual, PDF link or even paper
- a good description of the software and how to use it and how to connect (there are several PDF with the dip switches, in some the order is changed, in some not, awful !!)
- pre-modified fuse holder cap that it fits
Can you comment about the just buying it as a fully assembled rather than DIY? I asked Seplos and the price difference was tiny. Why wouldn't I just go that way? I'm looking for a good deal on battery, not a new hobby if that makes sense. Thank you.
@@Altenurgy for me the difference was not tiny, and the cells from seplos are neither Eve nor CATL
@@patrickmartin4482 That little birdie does keep telling me something is likely amiss. I'm relatively new to all of this so the cell manufacturer wasn't even a matter I thought to look for. They've sent me lots of documentation including a 12 page one on the cells. No mention of manufacturer that I could see. 6000 cycles @ 80% though. So if I understand correctly you bought thier kit are providing your own cells? I hadn't even thought about that.
@@Altenurgy I ordered 80 eve cells @ docan and this time 160x CATL
@@AltenurgyWenn du jetzt wirklich glaubst, daß diese 'S E P L O S M E N S C H E N' den Pack besser zusammen nageln , als ein versierter Schrauber, dann hast du dir viel Zeit gespart 👍 Wenn dein Keller, oder wo auch immer du das Teil dann hin stellst, irgend wann wegkokelt , haste aber auch nix gewonnen . Die Chinamänner wirds aber auch nicht interessieren . Da bin ich schon mehr auf der Schrauberseite 😉 Da weiß man was man hat ☝️
As my Mason was delivered it looked exactly the same and I wrote a an email to Seplos and they say OK we will deliver it the next time with a cardboard box 😂🤣 but you are the best example that Seplos didn't change anything 😉. But for 600 USD you should expect the parts better packed. I ordered a second one so we'll see 👀.
Your "chewing gum" is heat transfer gum which go underneath the bms to transfer the heat to the front panel, schön Grüße Marko
They will get some more feedback. There was nothing in the installation guide about the heat pad and the BMS was already mounted 🤷♂️
Danke Dir!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I think the PCB was only loosely mounted for transportation.
The blue stuff goes between it and the case for thermal, then remount the PCB with extra screws.
They have a UA-cam installation video on their YT channel
Yellow Oversize post-it notes all over the place LOL 😄
Well Andy :D nach Fest kommt Ab ! ;)
I Enjoyed watching, thanks sir😊
I'd put the fuse on top of the bus bars. That way if you need to remove the fuse you only need undo those two bolts and it lifts straight out without having to bend the bus bars, or even having to undo them from the BMS or terminal.
Thx for the tip, will be building my system using a mega fuse within the next week so it is timely advice.
I built my 280ah seplos also months ago and it came in the same condition. Even had the bms leads ripped off of the pcb.
FFS, that should not happen. I'll have a word with them!
In previous videos you mentioned you weren't going to bother with compression, compression may have prevented or reduced the bulging you experienced
Best regards to you from Texass ✌🏻
Hello Texas! 🌵🐮🤠
I love your videos Andy :-)
Thanks! 😃
The chinese chewing gum is a thermal pad for the BMS, it will transfer heat away from the mosfets to the casing. Great video.
I noticed there were squared "gaps" at the back wall of the structure so two cells at the very back are not fully supported by the wall. The are supported only on, say, edges. What do you think about that with regard to cell compression? Regards and greetings from Poland.
Seplos MASON's face is on the short side of the rectangle.
Luyuan also came up with a similar battery case, but the front is on the long side. BMS is per customer's specification... could be Seplos, could be JBD or JK etc...
There are so many battery designs out there now. I like the choice of the BMS, that's a good idea.
Andy, can ask a stupid question, why must the batteries be so tightly fitted? Interesting that they have to be under high pressure
The manufacturer suggests this to get the 6000 cycles out of the cells. Without compression, they will last 'only' 4500 cycles.
You put Main Positive busbar on tinned press nut, which is made from steel... :)
I have a few seplos batteries connected to a sunsynk but the BMS keep dying. Killed 6 so far. Thinking of trying to install a different BMS in the case.
Hi there, I am using a Mason 280 with a 200amp Seplos BMS and 16 EVE 304Ah batteries. I have configured the BMS to 304 AH. I'm trying to find out where in the VRM I can check if the battery is charged to 15 kWh. On the installation data screen, I see that the battery has only reached 8 kW, which is not what I expected. You suggested that I drain the battery completely and then recharge it to full capacity. What is the recommended percentage that I should allow it to drain down to before recharging? I drained it to about 50% before recharging. Is that not enough?
The Seplos BMS does not report the kWh or Ah to the Venus OS.
Follow the instruction for the BMS. Fully charge and top balance the battery. then fully drain it until the BMS shuts down, so the BMS learns the capacity of your battery.
Excellent
After seeing you stripping the first thread I knew why they had put the copper washers in the box for you...;-)
At 42:40 ... what about a neoprene sheet that just laid on top of the batteries ... just in case :)
Can you tell me how to set up the EVE 304Ah batteries in the 200amp Seplos BMS in this Mason 280. Right now mine says Rated Capacity of 200 AH. I would think it should say 304Ah. Is there a place to change these settings?
Do a full charge, discharge, charge cycle and this number will be set to what the actual capacity of tour battery is. The BMS will measure it and set this accordingly.
In the manual it mentions (as you criticized) to fix the nuts on the busbars with 5Nm (at position 23:30 in the video). In the seplos Erklärbärvideo the guy says 4Nm of torque. After asking my Seplos contact, he confirmed that 4Nm torque for fixing the Busbars is enough.
Thank you for the show. I still hope one day a vendor will come out with an 8 battery 24V system (for EVE280 or 304).
WHY ?
seplos has a 24V version of the box for the same cells.
@@davidkettell6236 Because I need systems that one person can handle without a forklift (Steroids and daily Gym visits are not an option).
@@sergea1138 I just had another look at their homepage and you are right. Many thanks for pointing me into the right direction.
Put the Cu washers under the nut. It improves friction and mechanical properties.
Sehr unterhaltsames Video!!! 😉 ... und informativ.
Hey Andy. I have just built my battery system with VRM. Is it true, that you cant change any parameters in the solar charge controller(via VRM)? And is there a good way to get temperature of the battery into VRM? Thanks so much!
Did you get this version to talk to VenusOS?
The gaps are not even because you are compressing from one side only. You are working against compression force and cells friction force against the the bottom. I have rods and compression plates at both ends and tighten them such as. In my case is a mobile application so compression & flexible jumpers is a must.
The copper washers goes beneath the bus bars.
Hi Andy, great video. It has inspired me to fit one of these to my house. I have already had my cells arrive and an awaiting the seplos case. I have just found out that in the UK to apply to correct these to a grid tied system I need to apply for permission and provide data sheets for all equipment including the batteries. I've tried to find the datasheet for battery on seplos Web site but can't find it. Would you know where I can get this. Sorry for the hassle but panicking now that I won't get permission.
Yeah, connecting to the grid is always a bit... hence, my off-grid installation...
What cells doe you have? Did you scann the QR code on top and find out the manufacturer? If you bought the cells from Seplos as well, they could be Higee cells and you can google the specification sheet.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia hi Andy, thanks for the reply. Sorry to keep bothering you but did you ever get the Bluetooth app to work for this battery as I can't even log in?
You're very welcome, good sir! ^_^
Hello Andy et al, did someone test the temperature of the main plugs at 100A e.g.? I read around 42 degrees C at ambient of 23 at the cable closest to the plug.
You need a ''DA-DA'' torque wrench !!! 🤣
Yes, I do 😂
Time for an engine lift jig? If you're going to get more rack batteries it'll make lifting them easier?
i,m wondering why they don,t use a Epoxy sheet to cover up the terminals instead of the plastic rubbish they want u to use on the lid.
Up to the Chinese Gum bit. Isn't that some kind of heat sink for the BMS?
Yes, of course it is 😉 But where does it go? There is nothing in the manual and the BMS was already mounted.
Very challenging
Just for shits and grins, I'd change the connection speed starting at 19.2k and go down. It's possible the communication protocol was changed, could be as simple as dip setting on the BMS. Give it a shot! All you have to lose is some time. And, I think you have the positive buss bar upside down. The two buss bars should join and not on the screw stud like you have it.
Is there a second dip switch on the BMS somewhere? I haven't seen one except the one at the front.
Yeah, the busbar... if I flip it, the flexible bus will bend a lot though
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I can't tell by the video. I do know that for what little time it would take, I'd start at the 19.2k and go slower until you reach the bottom (1200 baud?) Is there a way to change the parity? I'd try that too. It won't hurt anything and the only thing you'd be out of is time.
As for the bus bar, I rewatched that part of the video and I understand what you're saying. It still doesn't look right to me, but I'm no expert. If the bus bar could be made to fit the buss bar that connects the two output ports without deforming the snout out of it, I'd give it a try.
Hello
I also have an off-grid installation of 5.4 kw panels, in verter Easun SMV 4 of 5.6 kw and a LIFEPO4 battery 16 elements of 280 AH.
If you can help me, what are the voltages that must be set on the inverter to charge the battery to 80-90% and discharge to 20-25%.
Thank you in advance.
hmmm, is the bus bar for the fuse and output terminal correct? looks like the touching area is so little
Wouldn't the bus bar with the bolt be the other way around for more contact area to bus bar?
Hey Andy!
So I just assembled three of these last week and I have the following comments to your build:
The chewing gum is a heat exchange pad, it goes on the heatsync on the back of the BMS PCB. I cannot for the life of me figure out why they opted to "save" putting this in before shipping and fix the BMS with the 6 screws so it's actually in place, but you have to take off the BMS from the front plate, attach the heat pad and screw it down again.
When you put the BMS back, make sure that the LED diodes align with the holes in the frontplate.
The same for the display, you have to loosen the two screws it comes it, slide the display to the far left if you are looking from behind and screw it back in and add the additional two missing screws. This is why you had issues pressing the buttons, because the alignment is off, so the buttons don't travel properly.
The busbar for the positive terminals on the front is facing the wrong way, you need to put the "nut side" towards the fuseholder.
There was 4 little round foam discs in the kit, put them inside the top holes of the case, so the next box you put on top rests with its feet on that foam pad.
I got the 200a bms and it worked fine for connection via the RS485 ports like you showed with the previous build.
I also told Seplos that their packaging inside the case was borderline stupidity with 3/3 bags for my kits broken and things all over the place. I recommended a cardboard box for all the bits and pieces and separate box for the BMS and display as well. In one of my cases, the PCB of the BMS had actually broken off a corner due to being beaten up in shipping and them not attaching it with the full 6 screws.
I'll look forward to you getting the rollable basestation and hear your judgement on bolt alignment vs the wheel attachment plates :P It'll be fun.
Heya, that's no bad that you have to wait till after the weekend. in the mean time lets do some other projects
Is it ok to place and operate the box upright so that the terminals are at the top? Battery cells are at the side and stacked in each other in that case.
Andy is there a possibility that you installed the p+ busbar upside down?
@Off-Grid Garage 5:58 -.. sound of "da da" is wrong. It must have mean "da da da" for sure, the hymn TRiO played in the early 80s during the NDW or New German Wave.
Hi Andy. I am catching up with all your videos. Excellent materials, I have learned a lot. Thank you. One question, I have notices in many places it says "Never leave LifePo4 batteries unattended while charging". How then can I use them like you for whole house back up or ESS. The whole pooint is not to have to stand there for 5 hours a day while they are charging?? Any ideas??
Bravo
Molto bene!!!
mine goes to sleep Andy the same as the Mason box
Think one of the SOC leds go crushed back against the PCB?
Hello Andy, thought for the video. I am currently facing the challenge of buying the Seplos or EEL. Can you recommend the Seplos? Is the Seplos BMS any good with the balancers? according to the seller of Seplos there is a new BMS. will you benefit from it can you give me a tip which I should rather take. In terms of price, both take nothing
Don't by EEL! They sell crap batteries and ask customers to blame the transport company for damages clearly coming from their bad quality.
I have made a video about the new Seplos BMS with Bluetooth. It's great. ua-cam.com/video/7yJFLPW1N3Y/v-deo.html
It's ok Andy. All the parts are there. Right? Does that battery have a blutooth app that can communicate with the BMS.?
Yes, all parts were there.
Why is the battery no longer open circuit?.....
Because Andy refused it.
Mixing Copper, Aluminum, and Stainless???
Bouth copper and stainless are eating aluminum.
Any thoughts about that?
Andy what is considered full on these lithium cells 3.35/3.45/ or 3.65 I know 3.65 is considered the max but what is full ?
I wish we could find this box bare without the BMS somewhere , I've been looking.
You can buy them that way from Seplos. I already had 2 of their BMSs and bought two of the DIY kits to use them in.
@@duunoit How much , everything they have seems expensive for what it is.
@@onthelake9554 I thought the diy box was really reasonable. Shipping was really expensive. 2 of them without BMS shipped to US was $830. $360 of that was shipping and PayPal charges.
@@duunoit Yes , not terrible but not much value for money either . I need too many . :>)
Andy, at 47.37 do you think it makes sense for the temperature sensors to have a 3.1C difference range? 18.9 - 16.3 - 15.8 - 17.5
Also, you probably have the answer by now but did you try all the cable ports?
I think the temp sensors are not that accurate, I have a few Seplos Batteries and the temps vary a bit, they’re more of a rough guide.
As some of the comments mention, the C and D versions of the BMS affect comms. That is the one thing I dont like about the BMS. I also have an MPP Inverter, but all seven of my Seplos BMS's are CANBUS models, which I hear cannot be mixed with the RS485 versions.
yep, I confirmed, they can be mix.
Your BMSes don't have both, CAN and RS485? I thought they always have both anyway
@@OffGridGarageAustralia the inverter port (on the left) could be CANBUS or RS485 depending of the bms vesrion (10C or 10D) . The label for this port is always CANBUS whatever version of the bms is. The 2 right ports (RS485 1 and 2) are for inter battery communication and PC host connection. Check your bms version (10C or 10D) if your have 10D then it is a RS485 version and your dip swich setting is not the same as for the CANBUS version.
Would it not be great to design a front for this to fit a JK bms instead? Buy the box, without the seplos bms, use a front for the jk bms and mount a jk bms, make your own final busbars, and you have the perfect battery.
Yes, something like this would be nice. An individual BMS mount would be great. Velcro straps, something simple but versatile.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Do you think this is feasible though? From the design i have seen and from your video, i would say that it would be.
How much space is there between the compression panzer and the front plate?
I do not think that i have seen seplos currently sell these boxes without the bms though, but i guess that like most alibaba sellers they might be flexible.
If so, someone in the battery community could cad it up, have it plasma cut and attach the lugs where needed, and do a few test iterations. Then have a bunch made, and powder coated and sold at near cost, with the design on github or so.
I tried, they sell only with the unusable BMS
@@heinzblank6065 That's too bad :(
I guess there will be a lot of cheap seplos bms available on ebay and kleinanzeigen over the next year or so :) I think that that might make 150-200eur there still.
@@luc_libv_verhaegen The Seplos BMS is really a bummer. It needs a lot of work to make it great. The rest of the Mason system is fantastic, so yeah, a case in this style with a flexible BMS mount (JK, JBD, Daly, ...) would be amazing.
What happened to the electrician visit to check your installation?
Superbe montage ANDY, c'est dommage que chaque batterie ne soit pas livré avec une petite clé USB qui contient le programme de chacune... ainsi que le manuel de montage en PDF. bref je continue mon aventure sur ta chaîne.😄
I also worried, when I saw your video. Because I already paid for 280Ah case. I immediately contacted them. Luckily they mentioned, they already took an action for it and this will be not happened on future.
What a Bummer! What a cliffhanger, I feel for you Andy, Ive been looking forward to this build & was wondering if my 310A cells would fit this unit. I really wanted this to be a good review, but from comments it seems like Seplos just Don’t Give A Sh*T about their packaging abortion or customer support, sounds like this packing fiasco has been reported to them repeatedly and they just haven’t even tried. I really wanted one of these kits, but dont know if I want to support Seplos if they are just going to send me a box full of shaken up Shit! No instructions, no good! These are such simple things to fix, I do hope they listen to you and do something to pick up their act, the product looks ok otherwise. Good vid as always. Cheers
Hey Andy, dein Link zu den klebbaren Schaumplatten geht nicht mehr, könntest du da mal bitte schauen. MfG Peter
Hi Andy dear boy,
It will be interesting now you have a direct comparison with compressed Vs uncompressed cells and will it change your mind.
Love from Scotland
Gaz
I'm gonna be shocked if it makes any difference at all for the type of loads Andy will use it for. Happy to be proved wrong tho.
@@pau1phi11ips Given the chance Andy would Supercharge his Tesla.
It is not a real compression. I can still move the cells a bit... 😉
I don't think I will see any difference in behaviour or cell longevity. That's impossible to compare or test.
It did not change my mind, Gaz. I just used the battery case with the features it came with. I still think compression of battery cells is not worth it with our solar storage projects.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Fair doo's mate, The internal mechanical stress from swelling worries me.
With my badly bloated cells I had delivered that I am going to have to use I am like WTF do I do??? They are that bad the buss bars don't fit.
Is it a racheting up of swelling over time or do they bloat all at once from high load?
A bit of a minefield and I feel DOOMED if I do and DOOMED if I don't lol.
Shine on man.
Gaz
@@garys-half-baked-offgrid-dream I charge/discharge mine from 100% to 15% every day. I'm charging at 65A which is only 0.23C. It shouldn't put that much stress on them. I've been doing that for 1 year with a Daly, so basically no balancing. I've had to manually balance them once and it was just 1 cell that was out. I haven't seen any reduction in capacity.
There's not going to be many people charging 280Ah cells with even 0.5C
we have same pack select pack 1 on the screen then it will connect
Antes de montar las series las tienes que poner unas horas en paralelo para que se igualen las capacidades de las celdas y luego las montas un saludo
The cells he used are from the first 48v pack he built and were used until fairly recently when he completed the 2.0 version of his system. They were also balanced with the NEEY active balancer for a couple weeks so they were good to go 👍
I don't get it...spend money on a box when the batteries don't need one...I have my Eve batteries on a foam board, bms on top. What else do you need?
6:17 this makes this channel a little entertaining... "DA DA!"
Anyone have a link to where I can get some of that sticky backed epoxy sheet stuff? I've looked on Aliexpress, amazon and ebay and there are epoxy sheets but none that say self sticking.
If all else fails, you can apply your own adhesive. Amazon sells various sizes of 467MP transfer tape (made by 3M) for a decent price.
I used to use this at work for applying adhesive to thin metal nameplates for electronic equipment. The 467MP isnt actually tape, its simply a layer of adhesive attached to backing material that is peeled off after you've attached it to whatever you want.
charge the battery to wake up BMS maybe...
The film on the case top is there to protect things if something drops on the battery and bends the case inward. The film is mighty thin so how well it would work if something hit the battery with such a large force is questionable.
Well, if we have such a force that this lid actually bends down and hits the busbars, I don't think a 0.1mm thin plastic film will make a difference here. This is all massive steel and I could easily stand on this box and not make a damage at all. The lid already weighs a lot.
35:41 is wrong on this. you must turn oposit bolt must be inside and 2 busbar must have all area conection,not on bolt.
Yes, correct. I've replaced the BMS and corrected that in another video.
Idol
Hi has anyone connected one to a solax inverter 7.5 hybrid
Why shouldn't it work with the correct settings in the inverter?
looks like the firmware version is different. usual boudrates are 9600 and 115200 you should at least try those
OK, thanks for the tip. I'll test this tonight. Isn't it weird that the lights stay on all the time though?
DaDa means elder brother in my region😃😃😃😃
This 400 AMPS fuse and terminals is bad design. Good fuse for this type of battery looks like this: PV-400ANH3 FUSE 400A 1000V DC PV
Andy, i just received the mason but I was wondering, those busbars seems really light, and makes me wonder is it made from a good material. What are your thoughts about it? I mean it might be brass?
I have used the aluminium busbars from the box and they are good, no problems.
Please include myself also. I left a message on your number to get some information for your battery’s too.
If something would fall on the top and bend the metal inwards, you would get a little extra protection with the black sticker, I guess.
I can stand on the lid and it would not bent. If something that heavy hit's the box, not sure if a thin plastic film would make a difference.
Great info. You could have had Triio from your home country with DaDaDa.🤣 In the background.
1 milliohm - 0.001 ohm. 37.5 milliohm = 0.0375 ohm. The calculated result was 0.0000375 ohm, which would be 37.5 micro ohm, not milliohm! This might seem pedantic, but any further calculations based on this error at 23:00 will be out by a factor of 1000x!
I don't know if any body else has mentioned it but I think the fuse should be on top of the bus bars as if it blows it will be much easier to replace it.
Hallo Andy, nice and funny video as always 👍
I installed with Jens (you know him) 4 of this great cases with the worst BMS on my boat.
The USB-serial connection sometimes works, when you activate the first battery on the right side, so that it is green.
Just one of many bugs of this system.
I could not get it running reliably, so I am changing all to Batrium now.
Best wishes from Vienna,
Heinz
Making a guess here: You have a version "10D" on the 280ah Mason BMS. Even though one of the RJ45 ports is labeled "Canbus", it's not on the 10D, its an RS485 port. **I'm guessing they will tell you to use that port for your PC communication**. I didnt see what version BMS os on the 100ah unit, but my guess that it's a "10C" model. The bad news is that a 10C BMS cannot parallel communicate with a 10D BMS (in case you wanted to connect your two Masons together) according to Seplos
I know this because I have two 10C models and have found that only the 10D model can communicate with my particular inverter (MPP LV6548). The 10C provides it's Pylontech interface via canbus and the LV6548 only accepts the Pylontech over RS485. Unfortunately, a firmware update wont fix this.
You can ask for a replacement if you want to switch to a 10D version or 10C . Just don't try to install a canbus firmware on a 10D bms version or a RS485 firmware on a 10C bms version or it will brick.
Great, thanks a lot for sharing these information. I will wait for their reply but will test the CAN port to connect to the computer.
The whole point was to connect the two together...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia You need same bms version to do that, and since you are using victron, it is better to get a canbus version ( 10C ) for both batteries in order to connect them with your gx controller later.
👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Hi Andy! @22:25 your dc resistance is 37.5 µohm !!!
SEPLOS is NOT packing this nice. they made it VERY BAD. i dont like to ordering that and selling to ma customer that way. and i have had a not nice chatt wit people on Seplos yesterday
Andy another great video , small correction around the 23 minute mark all references to milli ohms should actually be micro ohms.
Nice repair on the stripped terminals. Having them all torqued correctly is a good thing. My O.C.D. would like to see all the terminals matching size, but I try really hard to fight that when it adds extra work and extra risk to my projects!
Over time, I will probably end up with replacing them all. I could already feel that some just made the 5Nm but would not go any further. The UNC screws seems to be rock solid.