IFSC Climbing World Cup Arco 2017 - Lead - Finals - Men/Women

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  • Опубліковано 28 сер 2017
  • Watch all the stars in the full replay of the Lead finals at #IFSCwc Arco!
    All the information about the event on:
    www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.ph...
    About IFSC:
    The IFSC is an international non-governmental non-profit organization whose main objectives are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of climbing competitions around the world.
    About the Channel:
    The IFSC Channel - On this Channel you can follow the three climbing disciplines: Speed, Lead and Bouldering. Follow live streams, athlete interviews and event highlights brought to you by the International Federation of Sport Climbing!
    World up...Keep climbing!
    Website: www.ifsc-climbing.org/
    Facebook: / sportclimbing
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    LinkedIn: / international-federati...
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 50

  • @CCMrJones
    @CCMrJones 6 років тому +14

    Stasa's commentary is always so on-point, love it!

  • @wombatlover2796
    @wombatlover2796 5 років тому +6

    I love the way Jain Kim climbs, she is my favourite modern day climber !!!!

  • @beachbraids6747
    @beachbraids6747 6 років тому +16

    Climbing starts at 19:57

  • @RonaldoMessina
    @RonaldoMessina 6 років тому +41

    WOMEN (men below)
    ------------------------------------------------
    Ashima SHIRAISHI 0:19:50
    Molly THOMPSON-SMITH 0:26:25
    Anne-Sophie KOLLER 0:29:50
    Jessica PILZ 0:36:50
    Julia CHANOURDIE 0:42:55
    Jain KIM 0:48:43
    Anak VERHOEVEN 0:57:00
    Jajna GARNBRET 1:03:23
    MEN
    ------------------------------------------------
    Yoshiyuki OGATA 1:10:00
    Keiichiro KORENAGA 1:16:01
    Jakob SCHUBERT 1:22:10
    Hannes PUMAN 1:30:10
    Thomas JOANNES 1:34:34
    Max RUDIGIER 1:38:58
    Adam Ondra 1:43:58
    Alexander MEGOS 1:50:55

    • @simvoli
      @simvoli 6 років тому

      That's a flash ^^. Thank You!

  • @BrunoMalherbe
    @BrunoMalherbe 6 років тому +107

    Seriously pissed by the 6 minutes rule, to see such a smooth climber like Jain Kim being forced to rush through her climb like that was just sad... It's just not enough.

    • @xc43t
      @xc43t 6 років тому +14

      true, semifinals should be timed aggressively, but finals should allow for different styles/ paces of climbing to shine

    • @BoulderProblems
      @BoulderProblems 6 років тому +2

      If I remember correctly, Jain has timed out in the past when the timer was 8 minutes. I love to watch her climb, but she does climb slow. I bet all the athletes will adapt to the new time limit and start climbing faster and put on a good show. Can the setters climb the routes under 6 minutes, I would guess yes.

    • @BrunoMalherbe
      @BrunoMalherbe 6 років тому +4

      I get that, but in this case the problem is that they had some world cups with more than one top, and they had to start setting harder routes, but harder routes are slower to climb, so if you make it harder AND put a 6 minutes timer, you get this kind of event, where the two winners have like three or four moves that don't even count in their win, it's a bit silly... Of course it will take some adaptation but if they make easier routes to compensate, then it becomes speed climbing, and not hard lead climbing where you have to manufacture rests, save your energy, think and if needed rethink the moves you have in mind. I don't wanna see athletes running towards the top.

    • @leoingson
      @leoingson 6 років тому +5

      None of the setters can redpoint a worldcup route. Else they would climb in the worldcup.Check out setting of the hardest indoor route in Stockholm.

    • @BrunoMalherbe
      @BrunoMalherbe 6 років тому

      They still seem to be able to find what works and doesn't, but this new 6 minutes rule makes their work even more complex, and it must be tough figuring it out. And the result is just sad, at least so far :/

  • @VramsGamingChannel
    @VramsGamingChannel 6 років тому +22

    The time limits are the worst.

  • @psirenvct
    @psirenvct 6 років тому +39

    A bit disapointed, the timer was way too short ...

    • @allezdobong2294
      @allezdobong2294 6 років тому

      Routes were too hard too, there are 5.14b~c.

  • @anosnd
    @anosnd 6 років тому +38

    6 minutes really punishes patience, control and intelligent climbing which are hallmarks of lead climbing. Why would they do that?

    • @DeepRafterGaming
      @DeepRafterGaming 6 років тому

      exactly my thought and I don't get it either.

  • @mats9435
    @mats9435 6 років тому +19

    Rip Megos

    • @RonaldoMessina
      @RonaldoMessina 6 років тому +4

      without his yellow t-short he is like Samson without hair :-J

  • @abandonedchaos145
    @abandonedchaos145 6 років тому +2

    Anne really had a beautiful save, it's to bad she lost it, I believe it's because she stole a look at the clock and counted bringing her focus away from the holds. All in all very well climbed!

  • @user-dt9xb7sn2q
    @user-dt9xb7sn2q 6 років тому +5

    Why no awards ceremony even in replay?

  • @neiladlington950
    @neiladlington950 6 років тому +1

    Interesting that although Ashima didn't make the podium, a rarity, her score of 32+ did. Never fails to impress.

  • @benjaminpanknin2591
    @benjaminpanknin2591 6 років тому

    Ogata chalked more times on that route than I did in my entire life :P

  • @johapet
    @johapet 6 років тому +12

    The 6 minute rule is stupid and counterproductive. This is lead climbing not speed bouldering. Give the climbers some time to show their talents instead of timing them out!

  • @DasUberCow
    @DasUberCow 6 років тому

    Ashima is the cutest and most impressive climber!

  • @dariocarafa3788
    @dariocarafa3788 2 роки тому

    Julia chanourdie Belayer almost decked her. It almost looks like he was just a foot or two from having her hit the ground pretty hard that was a long fall

  • @theoriginaldmac
    @theoriginaldmac 6 років тому +3

    ondra sprints to the start lol

  • @stefanofalero
    @stefanofalero 2 роки тому

    witness jain kim putting slides over her climbing shoes 0.0

  • @qwertyuiop-cu2ve
    @qwertyuiop-cu2ve 6 років тому

    Adam just casually reaching out and grabbing the jug that everyone else had to jump for haha. What is his height?

    • @fuzz6263
      @fuzz6263 3 роки тому

      bit late but 186 cm i believe

  • @virxbmc
    @virxbmc 3 роки тому

    3 Commentators vying for air time. Glad they kicked the third person out in the future. Also less interviews (2018+) is much better.

  • @aladeenmadafaka6286
    @aladeenmadafaka6286 6 років тому +3

    6 min sucks. boulderist got 4 min to one boulder...omg

  • @FlecheDeFer
    @FlecheDeFer 6 років тому +6

    Speed climbing is already a joke, why trying to tend to it with lead climbing?...

  • @lifeimprovementbyjasper2951
    @lifeimprovementbyjasper2951 5 років тому

    One day I hope to be as good as this.. Appearantly, I gotta learn to rush?
    I only recently uploaded my first outdoor rock climbing video..
    Would love to get feedback on that video though, from anyone really! I want to improve my videos :)

  • @fredweasley198
    @fredweasley198 6 років тому +1

    34:44 omg

  • @r.b.4611
    @r.b.4611 6 років тому +1

    Matching does not make you weak, such nonsense. It makes you good at matching! Also what the fuck Jain Kim was smashing the climb and got timed out?! Wtf dumb rules.

  • @hellsangel2005
    @hellsangel2005 6 років тому

    I dont believe Ashima is the youngest to climb 9a anymore.
    Im pretty sure an Italiam girl @ 12 years old climbed a 9a boulder problem a couple months ago

    • @kaitsu1984
      @kaitsu1984 6 років тому

      Brandon Donaldson no, Nalle Hukkataival is the only one in the world to climb a 9a boulder.

    • @giulianochianelli2109
      @giulianochianelli2109 6 років тому

      I think she was 14 years old ref: www.ukclimbing.com/news/2016/03/grandi_gesti9a_by_laura_rogora-70296

    • @dimi3378
      @dimi3378 5 років тому

      Yep the youngest girl to climb 9a is Laura Rogora now

  • @shaunlalani6441
    @shaunlalani6441 6 років тому

    Migos lol

  • @monoman4083
    @monoman4083 5 років тому

    6 minute rule gives climbers a whole big dose of hurry up. this is not holywood...

  • @NightOwl91
    @NightOwl91 3 роки тому +2

    @IFSC: 6 min rule has to be one of the most stupid rules that has ever been invented! Nothing more annoying than seeing climbers that are doing well on the route being timed out. In lead climbing it should all be about difficulty, not speed...for that there is speed climbing.

  • @dweeder1453
    @dweeder1453 6 років тому +1

    Who came up with this 6 minute rule? Do they even climb? Ruining the sport.

  • @NickLiang
    @NickLiang 6 років тому +6

    What terrible route setting........

  • @SnowmansApartment
    @SnowmansApartment 6 років тому +3

    what does she mean by „asian genes“? 🤔

    • @r.b.4611
      @r.b.4611 6 років тому +2

      Just a guess, crazy idea...genes that are found in Asian populations? E.g. the genes that make that fold of skin appear on the medial portion of the eye socket, which gives asian peoples' their characteristic eyes?

    • @frankh3057
      @frankh3057 6 років тому +1

      wow saving it