Great video I'm a self taught wood worker or you tube taught now and seeing you use the chisel on the dowels gave me reassurance I used the right tool when I made my work bench a few years ago wasn't sure if I should use a plane or chisel at the time thanks. Steve Tas
I enjoy making boxes and have a few around my workshop. They are very basic with no fancy joinery. I want to make a couple for christmas presents and I am setting myself the challenge of using hand cut dovetail joinery. I've got plenty of time to work on them. Anyway Paul, great video. Keep up the good work, all the best, Brian.
Thanks Brian. I've made exactly 5 test dovetail joints and never a full box, so the next box is certainly going to be a fun challenge for me! Have you kitted yourself out with all the tools (dividers, marking gauges, dovetail saw, coping saw, chisels) you'll need?
@@TheWoodKnight I have the gauges, dividers, chisels and coping saw. I don't have a dovetail saw but I do have a japanese pull saw which does cut quite well. If I'm a good boy I might get a nice dovetail saw for my birthday.
Great little video. Good for those who want to learn. Good to see a presenter/crafts-man who strives for excellent outcome rather than making excuses and cover-ups. What glue are you using?
Thank you very much! In this I use Titebond's Liquid Hide Glue, its more or less my go-to glue for everything thats not big laminations (I'll use PVA there), or doesn't need to be waterproof (titebond III or epoxy if it does). The extra work time, the way it doesn't stain the wood, the easier clean up and reversibility help make glue ups much less stressful :)
Thanks! For this box, it's Livos Kunos Countertop Oil. I've been gradually moving more of my projects to it as I find its so easy to apply, brings out nice colour and has reasonable protection. Not the highest level of protection, but still feels very natural.
I've made my fair share of foamcore organizers for various board games, but I admit I haven't thought about making a box for for them. It certainly would make things easier to store on shelves if they were all standardised sizes. That's poses so many interesting design questions! Do you go for cardboard-box-style piston fit slip on lid? Or a hinge and latch so it doesn't open accidentally? Then how would you go about labelling it incase you make boxes for multiple games? Cheap laser engravers would actually be excellent at that, or veneer/marquetry/inlay could make it look super fancy. Box joins in thin (6mm?) material? I don't think I want to rebox any of my bigger games at the moment, but Splendor is a good example of a game with an offensively large box for the contents that could be interesting to explore that idea with. I'll have to think on that!
@@TheWoodKnight I have seen people on the internet sell some cnc routed dividers, but they don’t look great as most are made from hardboard- or they are 3d printed. You could also have fun with all the catch-all organizers inside the box for all the bits and pieces too. Anyway cheers, keep up the great content!
Don't you hate it when you butt has delusions of grandeur? 😂 I like the pin look, and if you had a number to do for practical purposes this would work out great.
In this I use Titebond's Liquid Hide Glue, its more or less my go-to glue for everything thats not big laminations (I'll use PVA there), or doesn't need to be waterproof (titebond III or epoxy if it does). The extra work time, the way it doesn't stain the wood, the easier clean up and reversibility help make glue ups much less stressful :)
Great Video Paul - Quick question on Australian Timbers - specifically Blackwood. I just completed a glue up of a Blackwood box, gave it a spray of water to stand the grain up before the final sand, and i noticed yellow stainined around all the joins... Titebond 3 was the glue.. Have you come across this before?
Unfortunately thats one of the downsides of using a PVA glue. One common PVA myth is "clean up with a wet rag" being a good thing, but all that does is squish PVA further and creates a glaze that stands out under finish. If you're using PVA, on joints that will be visible * it can often be a good idea to apply finish beforehand (not to the joint, but to the surfaces that will be visible, doesn't have to be the full finish - even just a single coat or shellac will help) to repel glue squeeze out * using masking tape to mask of areas right next to the joints * let the glue get to a 'soft tack' stage and scrape/peel off the excess At this point, (I think, I could be wrong!) all you can really do is sand (or use a cardscraper) to remove the glue and try again. Oxalic acid may be useful here, but I've not used it before and I'm not sure what effect it'd have on the blackwood For joinery, I exclusively use liquid hide glue (or epoxy if it needs to be in a water exposed setting) to avoid that as much as possible.
Awesome video mate, really like the use of the monster chisel for the flush trimming. What glue did you use here? Also, how have you been finding the drill press? I have the same one but changed the chuck with a porter keyless and found it to be more stable and easy to use. Cheers
Its "only" a 38mm/1.5" chisel. I really need to get 50mm/2" slick! ;) There is something immensely satisfying about using the largest chisel you have for any job. The glue is Titebond's Liquid Hide Glue - it's more or less my go-to glue for everything these days! The drill press is great for my needs, which really isn't that much drilling. One day (maybe if I win the lotto) if I end up making more of the TWK Moxon Vice Kits - which involve a fair bit of drilling - I might look at one of those Nova Viking drill presses for similar small and powerful. Shame they're so expensive!
@@TheWoodKnight Haha okay maybe it's not thaaat big, but definitely seems like the right tool for the job! What are the benefits of hyde glue instead of just regular titebond? And yes! Those presses look great, the big boy version of the bosch
Zane. Very bad taste. Paul suffers from heavy duty migraines. The glasses are an aid to reducing the effects. I hope you do not have any medical conditions that people can point a finger at and give you strife.
Very purdy. You're right about building a box for a purpose as opposed to just some practice, makes it a lot more enjoyable.
Great video I'm a self taught wood worker or you tube taught now and seeing you use the chisel on the dowels gave me reassurance I used the right tool when I made my work bench a few years ago wasn't sure if I should use a plane or chisel at the time thanks. Steve Tas
Very nice construction. Good looking too! Thanks for sharing with all of us.
I enjoy making boxes and have a few around my workshop. They are very basic with no fancy joinery. I want to make a couple for christmas presents and I am setting myself the challenge of using hand cut dovetail joinery. I've got plenty of time to work on them. Anyway Paul, great video. Keep up the good work, all the best, Brian.
Thanks Brian. I've made exactly 5 test dovetail joints and never a full box, so the next box is certainly going to be a fun challenge for me! Have you kitted yourself out with all the tools (dividers, marking gauges, dovetail saw, coping saw, chisels) you'll need?
@@TheWoodKnight I have the gauges, dividers, chisels and coping saw. I don't have a dovetail saw but I do have a japanese pull saw which does cut quite well. If I'm a good boy I might get a nice dovetail saw for my birthday.
Great little video. Good for those who want to learn. Good to see a presenter/crafts-man who strives for excellent outcome rather than making excuses and cover-ups. What glue are you using?
Thank you very much! In this I use Titebond's Liquid Hide Glue, its more or less my go-to glue for everything thats not big laminations (I'll use PVA there), or doesn't need to be waterproof (titebond III or epoxy if it does).
The extra work time, the way it doesn't stain the wood, the easier clean up and reversibility help make glue ups much less stressful :)
Thank you for another entertaining video.
Enjoyed that, thank you! Learnt a lot!
BTW, what finish did you use Paul?
Thanks! For this box, it's Livos Kunos Countertop Oil. I've been gradually moving more of my projects to it as I find its so easy to apply, brings out nice colour and has reasonable protection. Not the highest level of protection, but still feels very natural.
Have you ever considered making board game boxes? I’ve always wanted to make a catan box
I've made my fair share of foamcore organizers for various board games, but I admit I haven't thought about making a box for for them. It certainly would make things easier to store on shelves if they were all standardised sizes.
That's poses so many interesting design questions! Do you go for cardboard-box-style piston fit slip on lid? Or a hinge and latch so it doesn't open accidentally?
Then how would you go about labelling it incase you make boxes for multiple games? Cheap laser engravers would actually be excellent at that, or veneer/marquetry/inlay could make it look super fancy.
Box joins in thin (6mm?) material?
I don't think I want to rebox any of my bigger games at the moment, but Splendor is a good example of a game with an offensively large box for the contents that could be interesting to explore that idea with. I'll have to think on that!
@@TheWoodKnight I have seen people on the internet sell some cnc routed dividers, but they don’t look great as most are made from hardboard- or they are 3d printed. You could also have fun with all the catch-all organizers inside the box for all the bits and pieces too. Anyway cheers, keep up the great content!
Don't you hate it when you butt has delusions of grandeur? 😂 I like the pin look, and if you had a number to do for practical purposes this would work out great.
Hi thanks for the vid, I like the quick reference for the time line, could you please advise what type of glue and why cheers
In this I use Titebond's Liquid Hide Glue, its more or less my go-to glue for everything thats not big laminations (I'll use PVA there), or doesn't need to be waterproof (titebond III or epoxy if it does).
The extra work time, the way it doesn't stain the wood, the easier clean up and reversibility help make glue ups much less stressful :)
Great Video Paul - Quick question on Australian Timbers - specifically Blackwood. I just completed a glue up of a Blackwood box, gave it a spray of water to stand the grain up before the final sand, and i noticed yellow stainined around all the joins... Titebond 3 was the glue.. Have you come across this before?
Unfortunately thats one of the downsides of using a PVA glue. One common PVA myth is "clean up with a wet rag" being a good thing, but all that does is squish PVA further and creates a glaze that stands out under finish.
If you're using PVA, on joints that will be visible
* it can often be a good idea to apply finish beforehand (not to the joint, but to the surfaces that will be visible, doesn't have to be the full finish - even just a single coat or shellac will help) to repel glue squeeze out
* using masking tape to mask of areas right next to the joints
* let the glue get to a 'soft tack' stage and scrape/peel off the excess
At this point, (I think, I could be wrong!) all you can really do is sand (or use a cardscraper) to remove the glue and try again. Oxalic acid may be useful here, but I've not used it before and I'm not sure what effect it'd have on the blackwood
For joinery, I exclusively use liquid hide glue (or epoxy if it needs to be in a water exposed setting) to avoid that as much as possible.
Awesome video mate, really like the use of the monster chisel for the flush trimming.
What glue did you use here?
Also, how have you been finding the drill press? I have the same one but changed the chuck with a porter keyless and found it to be more stable and easy to use.
Cheers
Its "only" a 38mm/1.5" chisel. I really need to get 50mm/2" slick! ;) There is something immensely satisfying about using the largest chisel you have for any job.
The glue is Titebond's Liquid Hide Glue - it's more or less my go-to glue for everything these days!
The drill press is great for my needs, which really isn't that much drilling. One day (maybe if I win the lotto) if I end up making more of the TWK Moxon Vice Kits - which involve a fair bit of drilling - I might look at one of those Nova Viking drill presses for similar small and powerful. Shame they're so expensive!
@@TheWoodKnight
Haha okay maybe it's not thaaat big, but definitely seems like the right tool for the job!
What are the benefits of hyde glue instead of just regular titebond?
And yes! Those presses look great, the big boy version of the bosch
wait wait wait, where did that suction hold down when you were sanding come from? looks like it just runs off your compressor....
I'll see if I can get a short video out this coming week going into a bit of detail on it :)
@@TheWoodKnight Yes I did notice this new 'Tool' to your collection. Give us your thoughts
ua-cam.com/video/9ECYns29BeM/v-deo.html There you go :)
Stopped watching when the glasses showed up. Ruined the continuity. Bleh
Zane. Very bad taste. Paul suffers from heavy duty migraines. The glasses are an aid to reducing the effects. I hope you do not have any medical conditions that people can point a finger at and give you strife.
Exactly. Paul's videos are very insightful and are really well filmed. He could present his videos shirtless for all I care 😅
Fair points both of you! Paul's a friend and this was a joke. Definitely a case of tone not coming across, my fault!
Well, THAT was a waste of time with the blue tape!!!