Pfft. I wish I noticed this video before. My '12 iQ has just under 80k on it, but is over 10 years old now. Had I known it was this easy, I'd have already done it. I need to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor, so I may as well do the coolant while I'm at it. And if I can find where the knock sensor is, I'll test it. Spark plugs come after that. Thank you SO much for your videos!
Alternator is a beast. Just had it done at mechanic because it's down in there. Might as well do belts, tensioner, water pump and coolant change all at same time, since it's all in the same place (have to remove coolant hoses to get alternator off)
Just got mine done....the refiller tool worked great! A few comments: I used ramps and got almost exactly a gallon to drain. This worried me so I got my floor jack and got the rear end up but not much else drained out. I noticed removing the little white valve on the hose top allowed about half a cut more antifreeze to drain out. It took exactly a gallon to refill with about 1/2 a cut extra so I put that right in the radiator overfill container. So have another gallon for next time. I tested the old with the radiator tester and only 1 ball didn't raise so it was still good but starting to wear out.
Thanks for posting these videos. Something worth pointing out is that, when it comes to Toyota, you can trust the manufacturer's recommended service intervals. I say this as someone who is on his third Toyota. My first two hit 200k miles without any issues. My third (an iQ) just hit 75k. Never had an issue with them, and I strictly follow the recommended maintenance. Premature servicing is just wasteful and puts more chemicals in our waste stream than necessary. Use top quality fluids and perform full flushes when called for, but don't do it early.
I agree EXCEPT for the CVT transmission guidance...no way am I never getting that fluid changed out periodically. (But letting the dealer do that job....lots of horror stories.)
My Toyota iQ (1.0L 1KR-FE) didn't have an airbleed screw. but it still worked fine. I only got 3.6L from the coolant out (of the total 4.3L). The coolant looked ok, it must have been replaced 2 to 3 years ago, so i couldn't be bothered to get the remainder out. It took about 20minutes of idling before no bubbles came out anymore.
I agree,10 years is too long. I did my IQ at four years. Only problem I had was the white vent would not unscrew, it only turned a little but I guess the O ring is stuck.I also replaced the cap with a 88kpa instead of the factory 108kpa. Thanks for another great IQ video.
thanks, hard to find maintenance tip on IQ. But I do have a question - don't we have to flush the coolant from engine block with distilled water at least once ?
Thanks for watching; I hope it helped you! Regarding flushing, that shouldn't be necessary when filling the engine back up with the same type of coolant. Flushing used to be a thing you had to do when engines and radiators contained a lot of cast iron and steel, but the iQ's engine is aluminum, and doesn't corrode significantly in contact with this type of coolant, so it doesn't get clogged up with rust.
Not sure. I think I've covered most of the maintenance the car typically requires. The brake fluid change is on my to-do list for later this year when the weather gets cooler, but I'd kind of need to wait for something to break before I have much to make a video about. Is there something in particular you'd like me to cover?
@@AaronAverett I see. Yes, it would sure help to see a serpentine and AC belt change. Possibly pulleys as well. Or suspension components such as anti-roll bar links for example.
@@vanos6439 My serpentine belt broke a few years ago. To get to it, you have to jack up the car and remove the right front wheel so I had my mechanic do it. It has 2 belts so if you’re replacing one might as well do them both.
The AC condenser is located in front of the radiator, at the front of the car, but it wouldn't be responsible for your bad smell. If you're having a bad smell in the cabin from the AC, it's possible that the evaporator core needs to be cleaned, but that's located inside the dash, behind where the HVAC controls are. What I would do, before I tried to spray any foaming cleaners anywhere, is make sure that the HVAC intake (where the cabin air filter is) and condensate drain are both free of any debris.
Pfft. I wish I noticed this video before. My '12 iQ has just under 80k on it, but is over 10 years old now. Had I known it was this easy, I'd have already done it. I need to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor, so I may as well do the coolant while I'm at it. And if I can find where the knock sensor is, I'll test it. Spark plugs come after that.
Thank you SO much for your videos!
Thanks for sharing. Hopefully I can see water pump&alternator replacement videos soon!
Alternator is a beast. Just had it done at mechanic because it's down in there. Might as well do belts, tensioner, water pump and coolant change all at same time, since it's all in the same place (have to remove coolant hoses to get alternator off)
Just got mine done....the refiller tool worked great! A few comments: I used ramps and got almost exactly a gallon to drain. This worried me so I got my floor jack and got the rear end up but not much else drained out. I noticed removing the little white valve on the hose top allowed about half a cut more antifreeze to drain out. It took exactly a gallon to refill with about 1/2 a cut extra so I put that right in the radiator overfill container. So have another gallon for next time. I tested the old with the radiator tester and only 1 ball didn't raise so it was still good but starting to wear out.
Thanks for posting these videos. Something worth pointing out is that, when it comes to Toyota, you can trust the manufacturer's recommended service intervals.
I say this as someone who is on his third Toyota. My first two hit 200k miles without any issues. My third (an iQ) just hit 75k. Never had an issue with them, and I strictly follow the recommended maintenance. Premature servicing is just wasteful and puts more chemicals in our waste stream than necessary. Use top quality fluids and perform full flushes when called for, but don't do it early.
I agree EXCEPT for the CVT transmission guidance...no way am I never getting that fluid changed out periodically. (But letting the dealer do that job....lots of horror stories.)
Good video...my 2013 is closing in on 90,000 so I'm doing mine...and found that super cool radiator filling/bleeding kit on Amazon for just $24
Great video I also have 2012 Scion IQ too Great video Thanks for the Great work!!!
Pro tip : you can watch movies at flixzone. Me and my gf have been using them for watching all kinds of movies lately.
@Francis Alec Yea, I've been watching on flixzone} for years myself =)
@Francis Alec yea, have been watching on flixzone} for years myself :)
My Toyota iQ (1.0L 1KR-FE) didn't have an airbleed screw. but it still worked fine. I only got 3.6L from the coolant out (of the total 4.3L). The coolant looked ok, it must have been replaced 2 to 3 years ago, so i couldn't be bothered to get the remainder out. It took about 20minutes of idling before no bubbles came out anymore.
I agree,10 years is too long. I did my IQ at four years. Only problem I had was the white vent would not unscrew, it only turned a little but I guess the O ring is stuck.I also replaced the cap with a 88kpa instead of the factory 108kpa. Thanks for another great IQ video.
I also switched the drivers side wiper from a 24 inch to a 22 inch to take some of the wobble out of it.
thanks, hard to find maintenance tip on IQ. But I do have a question - don't we have to flush the coolant from engine block with distilled water at least once ?
Thanks for watching; I hope it helped you!
Regarding flushing, that shouldn't be necessary when filling the engine back up with the same type of coolant. Flushing used to be a thing you had to do when engines and radiators contained a lot of cast iron and steel, but the iQ's engine is aluminum, and doesn't corrode significantly in contact with this type of coolant, so it doesn't get clogged up with rust.
good video. any tips on replacing the cooling fan motor?
Is that a Suzuki SV650 I can see?
Thanks 😊
Thank you!
My little silver bug thanks you! 👍🏻
Happy to help!
THANKS
When are you posting another iQ video? :D
Not sure. I think I've covered most of the maintenance the car typically requires. The brake fluid change is on my to-do list for later this year when the weather gets cooler, but I'd kind of need to wait for something to break before I have much to make a video about.
Is there something in particular you'd like me to cover?
@@AaronAverett I see. Yes, it would sure help to see a serpentine and AC belt change. Possibly pulleys as well. Or suspension components such as anti-roll bar links for example.
@@vanos6439 My serpentine belt broke a few years ago. To get to it, you have to jack up the car and remove the right front wheel so I had my mechanic do it. It has 2 belts so if you’re replacing one might as well do them both.
If the Toyota manuals says every 100,000 miles or every 10 years, that's what I'll be sticking to.
Anyone knows where the AC condenser is? I would like to spray foam cleaner in, the AC smells awful for me now...
The AC condenser is located in front of the radiator, at the front of the car, but it wouldn't be responsible for your bad smell. If you're having a bad smell in the cabin from the AC, it's possible that the evaporator core needs to be cleaned, but that's located inside the dash, behind where the HVAC controls are.
What I would do, before I tried to spray any foaming cleaners anywhere, is make sure that the HVAC intake (where the cabin air filter is) and condensate drain are both free of any debris.
Gentlemen? 😒😂
Q. WHAT SIDE OF VEHICLE IS DRAIN PLUG. DRIVER SIDE OR PASSENGER SIDE?
It's been a while, but as I recall, it's on the passenger (right hand) side.