hello from Pittsburgh Pennsylvania, USA. I picked up one of these Honda NT 700s in 2023/November from the original owner with 7500 miles/not kilometers I had trouble with it because the owner parked the bike in his heated garage in 2008 and he put stabilizer in the fuel tank. That stabilizer turned into a lump at the bottom of the fuel tank looks like sand. I have videos of the entire ordeal on my UA-cam channel. But when I got the bike, my riding the bike, I believe loosened that mass of stabilizer matter and caused it to plug my fuel filter stranding me 40 miles from home… I finally figured out what it was, and in cleaning the fuel tank and removing the fuel pump cassette from the bottom of the fuel tank, I saw that I could get my whole arm inside the gas tank to use a scotch bright pad inside the tank to loosen all of that white powder that had hardened to the interior of the fuel tank once I got things sorted in the fuel department, and I put the bike back together, it’s still had a slight hesitation which caused the bike to stall when pulling away from stop signs every now and then. When I would open the throttle from low speed it would Buck like someone shut the key off and then turned it right back on. I did a lot of research on the Internet and discovered that Honda was going to do a worldwide recall on this particular motorcycle because of bad spark plug caps. The plastic bits that snap onto the spark plugs themselves. They didn’t do the recall because they felt that it was only necessary in hot climates to replace the spark plug caps, either way, I’m sure it would’ve cost them millions to do that. But I replaced the spark plug caps, now the machine is running as I think it should.. on the Internet, they say this machine has two common glitches, the spark, plug caps, and the water pump. Seal is prone to start leaking… I was going to just throw in a new water pump, seal and impeller for the heck of it and change the coolant to a low silicate aluminum compatible coolant.. apparently silicate, which is a corrosion inhibitor is what is abrasive to the water pump, shaft, and seal.. i’ve had quite a few dozen motorcycles over the decades, including two Honda pacific coast/PC 800s. My first one got totaled with me on it at a stop sign waiting my turn, my replacement one I rode for 24 years, commuting, 31 miles a day. I always felt that the Pacific coast was the best all-around motorcycle in the history of the world. I am hoping this new to me Honda nt700 owner has a 2010 model pans out for me and impresses me to the point where I think that this may be the best rounded motorcycle for all types of street duty.. I bought this machine because of the high praise. This machine gets from the European in the UK riders, which I consider to be genuine, motorcyclists, and not just people that on motorcycles. There is a difference… watching this video, made me cringe when that one bolt at the water pump just sheared off. I was not sure and I’m still not sure if you were able to get that broken piece out of the engine? Did you? Or did you put the machine back together without that sheared off bolt being replaced? watching that happen has changed my mind about just putting in a new water pump, seal and impeller to avoid future problems. I believe I’m just gonna let sleeping dogs lie in this case.. thanks for the video. I did not know how great these motorcycles were when they were current. I have never even seen one of these motorcycles on the roads here in the United States, that I can remember, and I have been around for decades. I have more than 700,000 street miles behind me so far., mostly commuting six days a week, eight months, a year, until they start salting the roads here in Western Pennsylvania into Winter. That’s when I park my bikes until the end of March generally.. since I put a few videos on my UA-cam motorcycle channel, I cannot believe how many views I am getting from people that have interest in this particular model. I never knew it was so popular, especially since they haven’t made it for over 10 years now… One little thing about air pockets in your cooling system and radiator caps and the three jobs that they do, they are not just a cork in a bottle. Radiator caps do three things. they allow excess pressure and coolant to flow into the overflow tank without losing coolant from the system as the engine cools, the radiator cap allows the engine, that is cooling and because it’s cooling it has negative pressure that sucks coolant from the overflow tank back into the radiator The third thing that a radiator cap does is it maintains a certain amount of pressure in the radiator before it releases that excess pressure to the overflow tank. The reason for that buildup of pressure is, speaking in terms of Fahrenheit, temperature, water boils at 212°F at sea level. with a radiator cap, it has a spring that acts like a thermostat that allows pressure in the radiator to build/to increase to around 220 or 230° depending on how strong the spring is designed to keep the pressure in the radiator until the pressure overpowers the spring by design, water will not boil until it reaches 220 or 230° depending on how strong the spring in the radiator cap is.. I did a video on my channel about what a radiator cap does for maintaining safe pressure and temperature in your cooling system on all your vehicles. Never buy an aftermarket cheap radiator cap for any vehicle you own at a parts store or on eBay. Always buy an OEM, original equipment, manufactured part from your dealer. You can go cheap on some things, but not a radiator cap.. The danger with boiling is, boiling is the process of a liquid turning into a gas. In your engine in the water jacket surrounding the cylinder is the hottest point. That is the point most likely to make the coolant boil. In that space if you have air bubbles that are simply coolant that is converted from a liquid to a gas, that bubble cannot conduct heat and absorb it and transfer it to the radiator where it can transfer that heat to the air through the cooling fins on the radiator.. never run a vehicle with a loose radiator cap. Your cooling system is a closed loop sealed system that needs to build pressure. Never open your radiator cap on anything when the engine is hot because it will lose pressure, and as it cools, it will not pull colon back in from that reserve tank as it should… getting all the air bubbles out of some cars and motorcycles is a problem sometimes.. thank you for the video, showing how difficult it can be to remove the bolts from the water pump, and how difficult it can be just putting coolant back into the engine and getting the required amount back in and eliminating air pockets.. I would suggest measuring exactly how much coolant you get out of the engine when you drain it to start a project like this. That way you know exactly how much that the cooling system should take back in when you top it off again.
Had similar problem with my near side pannier. It was just the rear one of the two latches that was at fault. Just inspect the latch that's on your working side and you will get a clearer picture of how these work. It's definitely not Hondas finest but the small Philips screw had broken through the plastic and luckily for me it was just hanging loose. I just reset all the components in epoxy resin.and all was good. I'm not good at explaining in print but if you look at a good one it might help
Hi my friend trust you had a great Christmas, you probably know this anyway but with you not mentioning it I thought I would suggest it. When you have cheese bolts to loosen (I had a Yamaha Fazer 1000 and the x-up valve on the exhaust was held on with the very same) it pays to either run the engine to temp then after gently tapping the heads of the bolts with a screwdriver and mallet gently mind you, try more wd40 and try with heat in the bolts rather than stone cold. An heat gun wafted round is ok too. Then buy four new quality bolts to replace the cheddar ones or next time you need to you will face the same problem again. As I said you might have done this before. Cheers Dave
Hi Dave, was a great break thanks didn't get on the bike as much as I would have liked mind, hope yours was too. Thanks for the tip, I'll bare the heat idea in mind next time 👍
Get rockoil marine inhibitor it's a protective coating for outboard engine it's a great coating for out of the way places ,, total protection against salt water and anything else ,,or waxoil but the clear one ,, I'll be coating my nt700 when I get it next week 😉☺️☺️😉☺️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️
Have you looked at PJ:Son of Neil and Soundtechguy? both have short videos about the issue with the pannier latches and how to sort them. I hope that helps. ATB Big Dave Scotland
I WAS SHOUTING STOP ON THE SECOND ONE BECAUSE I COULD TELL IT WAS GOING TO BREAK. LOOKS LIKE IT'S BEEN USED ALL YEAR IN GOOD AND BAD WESTHER. WHAT YEAR IS IT.
hello from Pittsburgh Pennsylvania, USA. I picked up one of these Honda NT 700s in 2023/November from the original owner with 7500 miles/not kilometers
I had trouble with it because the owner parked the bike in his heated garage in 2008 and he put stabilizer in the fuel tank. That stabilizer turned into a lump at the bottom of the fuel tank looks like sand. I have videos of the entire ordeal on my UA-cam channel. But when I got the bike, my riding the bike, I believe loosened that mass of stabilizer matter and caused it to plug my fuel filter stranding me 40 miles from home… I finally figured out what it was, and in cleaning the fuel tank and removing the fuel pump cassette from the bottom of the fuel tank, I saw that I could get my whole arm inside the gas tank to use a scotch bright pad inside the tank to loosen all of that white powder that had hardened to the interior of the fuel tank
once I got things sorted in the fuel department, and I put the bike back together, it’s still had a slight hesitation which caused the bike to stall when pulling away from stop signs every now and then. When I would open the throttle from low speed it would Buck like someone shut the key off and then turned it right back on.
I did a lot of research on the Internet and discovered that Honda was going to do a worldwide recall on this particular motorcycle because of bad spark plug caps. The plastic bits that snap onto the spark plugs themselves. They didn’t do the recall because they felt that it was only necessary in hot climates to replace the spark plug caps, either way, I’m sure it would’ve cost them millions to do that. But I replaced the spark plug caps, now the machine is running as I think it should..
on the Internet, they say this machine has two common glitches, the spark, plug caps, and the water pump. Seal is prone to start leaking…
I was going to just throw in a new water pump, seal and impeller for the heck of it and change the coolant to a low silicate aluminum compatible coolant.. apparently silicate, which is a corrosion inhibitor is what is abrasive to the water pump, shaft, and seal..
i’ve had quite a few dozen motorcycles over the decades, including two Honda pacific coast/PC 800s. My first one got totaled with me on it at a stop sign waiting my turn, my replacement one I rode for 24 years, commuting, 31 miles a day. I always felt that the Pacific coast was the best all-around motorcycle in the history of the world. I am hoping this new to me Honda nt700 owner has a 2010 model pans out for me and impresses me to the point where I think that this may be the best rounded motorcycle for all types of street duty..
I bought this machine because of the high praise. This machine gets from the European in the UK riders, which I consider to be genuine, motorcyclists, and not just people that on motorcycles. There is a difference…
watching this video, made me cringe when that one bolt at the water pump just sheared off. I was not sure and I’m still not sure if you were able to get that broken piece out of the engine? Did you? Or did you put the machine back together without that sheared off bolt being replaced?
watching that happen has changed my mind about just putting in a new water pump, seal and impeller to avoid future problems. I believe I’m just gonna let sleeping dogs lie in this case..
thanks for the video. I did not know how great these motorcycles were when they were current. I have never even seen one of these motorcycles on the roads here in the United States, that I can remember, and I have been around for decades. I have more than 700,000 street miles behind me so far., mostly commuting six days a week, eight months, a year, until they start salting the roads here in Western Pennsylvania into Winter. That’s when I park my bikes until the end of March generally..
since I put a few videos on my UA-cam motorcycle channel, I cannot believe how many views I am getting from people that have interest in this particular model. I never knew it was so popular, especially since they haven’t made it for over 10 years now…
One little thing about air pockets in your cooling system and radiator caps and the three jobs that they do, they are not just a cork in a bottle. Radiator caps do three things.
they allow excess pressure and coolant to flow into the overflow tank without losing coolant from the system
as the engine cools, the radiator cap allows the engine, that is cooling and because it’s cooling it has negative pressure that sucks coolant from the overflow tank back into the radiator
The third thing that a radiator cap does is it maintains a certain amount of pressure in the radiator before it releases that excess pressure to the overflow tank. The reason for that buildup of pressure is, speaking in terms of Fahrenheit, temperature, water boils at 212°F at sea level. with a radiator cap, it has a spring that acts like a thermostat that allows pressure in the radiator to build/to increase to around 220 or 230° depending on how strong the spring is designed to keep the pressure in the radiator until the pressure overpowers the spring by design, water will not boil until it reaches 220 or 230° depending on how strong the spring in the radiator cap is..
I did a video on my channel about what a radiator cap does for maintaining safe pressure and temperature in your cooling system on all your vehicles. Never buy an aftermarket cheap radiator cap for any vehicle you own at a parts store or on eBay. Always buy an OEM, original equipment, manufactured part from your dealer. You can go cheap on some things, but not a radiator cap..
The danger with boiling is, boiling is the process of a liquid turning into a gas. In your engine in the water jacket surrounding the cylinder is the hottest point. That is the point most likely to make the coolant boil. In that space if you have air bubbles that are simply coolant that is converted from a liquid to a gas, that bubble cannot conduct heat and absorb it and transfer it to the radiator where it can transfer that heat to the air through the cooling fins on the radiator.. never run a vehicle with a loose radiator cap. Your cooling system is a closed loop sealed system that needs to build pressure. Never open your radiator cap on anything when the engine is hot because it will lose pressure, and as it cools, it will not pull colon back in from that reserve tank as it should…
getting all the air bubbles out of some cars and motorcycles is a problem sometimes..
thank you for the video, showing how difficult it can be to remove the bolts from the water pump, and how difficult it can be just putting coolant back into the engine and getting the required amount back in and eliminating air pockets..
I would suggest measuring exactly how much coolant you get out of the engine when you drain it to start a project like this. That way you know exactly how much that the cooling system should take back in when you top it off again.
Had similar problem with my near side pannier. It was just the rear one of the two latches that was at fault. Just inspect the latch that's on your working side and you will get a clearer picture of how these work. It's definitely not Hondas finest but the small Philips screw had broken through the plastic and luckily for me it was just hanging loose. I just reset all the components in epoxy resin.and all was good. I'm not good at explaining in print but if you look at a good one it might help
Thank you for the tip, that sounds very similar to the issue with mine :-)
I did so and worked out fine
Really enjoyed all these videos well done keep up the good work 👌
Thank you for watching 👍
Hi my friend trust you had a great Christmas, you probably know this anyway but with you not mentioning it I thought I would suggest it. When you have cheese bolts to loosen (I had a Yamaha Fazer 1000 and the x-up valve on the exhaust was held on with the very same) it pays to either run the engine to temp then after gently tapping the heads of the bolts with a screwdriver and mallet gently mind you, try more wd40 and try with heat in the bolts rather than stone cold. An heat gun wafted round is ok too.
Then buy four new quality bolts to replace the cheddar ones or next time you need to you will face the same problem again.
As I said you might have done this before. Cheers Dave
Hi Dave, was a great break thanks didn't get on the bike as much as I would have liked mind, hope yours was too. Thanks for the tip, I'll bare the heat idea in mind next time 👍
Get rockoil marine inhibitor it's a protective coating for outboard engine it's a great coating for out of the way places ,, total protection against salt water and anything else ,,or waxoil but the clear one ,, I'll be coating my nt700 when I get it next week 😉☺️☺️😉☺️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️
Perfect, thanks for the tip 👍
Fair play to ya great videos shame about the off happens to us all !! Great camera work by the wife 🙂
Thanks for watching, unfortunately we have had another one since then hence the lack of recent footage. Helps to have a different view I think 👍
Have you looked at PJ:Son of Neil and Soundtechguy? both have short videos about the issue with the pannier latches and how to sort them. I hope that helps. ATB Big Dave Scotland
Thank you for this, ill give it a search :-)
I WAS SHOUTING STOP ON THE SECOND ONE BECAUSE I COULD TELL IT WAS GOING TO BREAK. LOOKS LIKE IT'S BEEN USED ALL YEAR IN GOOD AND BAD WESTHER. WHAT YEAR IS IT.
I think your right, she was a year round bike. She's a 2009 👍