We built 125mm cavity with 75mm pir and 50mm clear cavity up until this year. New regulations are now 90mm pir with 50mm clear cavity. Never liked rock wool don’t like the idea of soaking wet rock wool in my cavity’s. It’s obviously a lot easier to fit than pir but pir is far superior and less chance of damp issues in the future. A cavity should be a cavity especially on brickwork imo.
Only trouble with larger cavities is either you get a smaller internal area or you'll have to build out more to get the same inside space as previously.
Notice that the chipboard flooring was glued together but not glued to the floor, glue and screwing to the floor makes a good solid job as recommended by the NHBC ( although they would not be involved in an extension)
Watching craftsmen in full flow is a beautiful thing. My father was a time served brick layer and later a general builder, though went into engineering I still appreciate the skill he had!
Existing cavity wall needs a vertical cut where the new wall meets it. Try doing that once youve built the new extension. Could be enforced by building control. Brickwork otherwise looks tidy.
Cut is only in the outer skin for installation of vertical dpc. Ideally insulated if you want to avoid cold bridging. The structural skin is unaffected if an engineer requests it you can always install remedial wall ties for stiffness before you make the cut.
The extension I built in mid 1980s used a Crocodile wall extension profile. Stainless plat screws to existing wall. Clip In ties are built into the new wall. It’s not moved in 40 years and no problems with damp or cold bringing.
Don’t think much of plumber and sparks on this job. Those holes through joists at the end all in the wrong places. Cables also out of safe zone where they dive round the steel. Wouldn’t have them working in my place!
That's tasty work, the scaffolding is a masterpiece especially with the roof on top of it. The only red flag i spotted was the plumbing, the joists should be drilled in the center along the neutral axis. Holes to be kept as small as possible with an allowance for expansion.
I'm always surprised that many trades are unaware of the rules regarding drilling and notching joists. The ones for the copper pipes caught my eye. Keep your holes for services in the middle of the joist and keep the hole size to a minimum. If you are drilling or cutting into any structural element as part of your work you need to be aware of the implications of what you are doing and what is acceptable... especially if its a task you are doing on a daily basis. Sometimes people wonder why floors of old properties are bouncy and when you lift the floor boards and see how many holes and notches have been added to the joist over the years, both top and bottom, then you realise the joist has lost almost a 3rd of its structural depth.
@@SkillBuilder Sorry, but 8:22 is definitely _not_ in the existing building, and there are three copper pipes with _huge_ holes through every joist. Those holes look to break several of the LABC/NHBC guidance. (Not on joist center-line, holes not spaced 3x diameter center-to-center, holes too close to supporting wall -
Im using 125 and 150 xtratherm pir cavity fill with the plastic front... and if its pumped walls they want 200mm cavity... in Ireland we don't really use the rockwool version for cavities
I went through this recently where our architect/engineer had given specs according to old building regs. Since we had already built the walls up to damp level, I also had to switch to the special PIR tongue & groove insulation boards which probably doubled the cost on insulation. However, (based on calculations) it overachieved the required level. The bricklayers (from Moldova) did an awesome job even though it wasn't an easy job.
@@jonp6798 If you live in a weather-sheltered area, filling 100mm with normal PIR is probably accepted. I live in a sheltered area as well. But I thought of sticking to 10-20mm air gap between the PIR and the external wall while using 90mm tongue and groove PIR boards (even though they are freaking expensive) to stay out of trouble from building control. They say that rain penetration can happen across joints unless they are tongue & groove style boards. Not sure if it has been proven or utter BS for selling something at a higher price.
Good informative UA-cam video as usual RB. With regards to thermal cavity wall insulation, I’ve never favoured AIRCRETE bl’wk being used to improve thermal values, as the inner cavity wall leaf is really for load bearing requirements from floor & roof loads & certain beams/lintels etc. Therefore, a dense aggregate block will tend to perform better structurally than AIRCRETE block & with all the inherent fixing issues to AIRCRETE. As for the insulation full fill within the cavity with face brickwork outer leaf, a waterproof insulant rather than a water resistant/repellent additive material should be a consideration, the cost difference shouldn't be that much higher. Also over time, a mineral wool type product could slump within the cavity compared with a rigid T+G board. A basic thermal calc will identify the cavity width required & what type of insulation board to achieve the current elemental U-value, this being 0.18W/m²K for outer walls. The example below achieves this with dense bl'wk & a 10mm residual cavity using this type of quality insulation, i.e. 125mm o/a cavity. Water ingress from driving rain could bridge a full fill insulated cavity with certain brick types, even small imperfections, so any residual cavity will assist, I guess everyone has their preferred methods :-) Rsi 1 15 0.180 0.083 Gyproc Wallboard 12.5mm+skim 2 15 R-value 0.170 Drylining - plaster dab cavity 3 100 1.080 0.093 MasterDenz (agg1960) Internal 4 10 R-value 0.290 Cavity unventilated low-E (0.2) 5 115 R-value 5.200 Recticel Eurowall+ 6 103 0.840 0.123 Brick outer leaf Rse 0.040 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- U-value (rounded) 0.18 W/m²K -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
150mm drytherm cavity insulation. Amzing difference. Builders were complaining "insulation doesn't make any difference anyway". I said to them, when its cold do you wear a coat?.....silence.
@@Crogookah Certainly one way to go. And S.I.P`s is good. I have done "Passive-Haus" and "Huf -House" triple glazed windows, air-tight structure with MHVRS Now that is the way to go.............
My woodwork teacher told us that the adhesive was stronger than the actual timber members being joined together. I can still remember the look he gave me when I asked "Why don't we make furniture out of adhesive then?". With heating bills at current levels I'm beginning to think I'll have to move into a new spec home and leave our 150 year old stonebuilt cottage behind. There's a limit to how much roof insulation, double glazing etc. can do when there are 2ft thick walls soaking up interior heating.
@@johndavenport7281 I built the house we currently live in. The walls are a insulated/composite timber system with brick rain screen cladding. Triple glazed windows on west/North and East elevations. High levels of insulation to sub floor/ loft and intermediate floors. almost fully sealed with an internal ventilation and recovery system. U - values achieved easily far exceed current required standards and E.P.C =A* rated. It is the only way to go.....
Qq..my neighbours ground is 350mm higher than mine. The external wall cavity tray will still need to be 150mm above it. Should insulation go beneath the cavity tray too…?
2:14 Does the cavity have to be 150, or it just has to be that unless you use the more expensive 90 type? Your room could be 12cm bigger if you use the more expensive insulation?
Not many cares, as long as houses are shown on the market with a description of how many bedrooms, instead of square meters, like the rest of the world.
Expect this to change again in the future to increase the insulation values even more. And all for the better. Just need industry to find a way to do it cheaper.
Nice to see building regs insisting on a lot of insulation. The only trouble is that in 50 years time the insulation will have shrunk and not be so effective, will these extensions have to be filled with foam?
U should do an eps on SIPS… there a new build art deco style house built out of SIPS with curved walls and everything, would never know its SIPS. Look amazing!!
Disagree. British housing stock is old and antiquated. New builds need to be better insulated. My house has been renovated to part L regs. So, 150mm drythem cavity.in the walls.etc.... Barely needs heating and keeps a far more constant temperature, so comfortable.
All that extra work covering up because of the weather. But are you making any money building extensions? I stopped building extensions years ago. I just do roofing now,....... when its not raining!! Good luck guys, hard work dose pay.
I bought a new build with London Brick about forty years ago built with the "frog" (dimple in the brick) placed down. I noticed bricklayers in this SB vid placed the bricks frog up. That's the correct way I think as the other way caused serious problems. Face of the bricks blown out by frost particularly below DPC. They did it this way because its quicker as less mortar is needed. Funny though, the last course they laid before they went home were always frog up! lol Dave
Upon taking off the render on our outhouse due to failure and spalled bricks I too discovered that the bricks had been laid upside down with massive air pockets in the frogs. To make matters worse they had mixed a far too strong cement mortar and render so that it was no wonder the bricks were spalling. The only time I have decided to lay bricks frog down (with filled frogs) was on the top course of a dwarf wall in a greenhouse so that the frame could be laid and sealed to an even surface. I've repointed and re-rendered with lime to improve water transmission and built a toolshed extension on the worst west facing gable to protect the outhouse. If I'd discovered similar on my house then it would need major replacement, not everything was better in the "good old days".
They should be notched into the top of the joist closer to the bearing point, where the joist is in compression rather than below the neutral axis where the joist is in tension.
You are right Dean, you should never notch the underside or do anything past the centre line. It was the plumber let loose. The joists had to be beefed up with extra ones to get over the issue.
@@CCCP8888 I think the insulation regulation depth is unreasonable on an extension build myself personally. These Net Zero loons are going to destroy this country with their bs.
Looks as though it’s got an over hang on the corner 4 courses up that can’t be intentional can it as it does overhang along all the course unless it’s the camera angle
Why is it knowing the damp issues I've encountered over the years with full fill cavities albeit injected glass fibre, this goes right against the grain???
Because it is not required. The engineers and architects give the builder a drawing which is passed by Building Control and then the builder builds what is on the drawing. If you start cutting the cavity near a corner you have weakened the structure. If the engineer says to do it then it is their insurance that pays.
As the brickie said these rules are mad. We like living in freezing cold draughty buildings and spending a fortune on gas and electricity because that’s what we have always done and we are British. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴
I was speaking to a builder the other day whos doing a extension and he said the 150 is only for new build he did cavitys in wool 100mm. has anybody actually read the exact wording of the regs. and does it depend on your area im in north yorkshire
My architects said it applies to extensions too and drew my plans with 150mm cavity, as said 100mm doing it with special PIR is prohibitively expensive…. However my builder said we can still do 100mm with PIR for extra £600. I would say thats reasonable and worth paying to save 3 x 50mm internal wall space, also means dont have to pay more for longer brick ties, wider lintels, cavity closers etc… from what ive heard getting 50mm longer brick ties cost 100% more than regular.
You can trade off by beefing up the existing to bring you up to a decent standard but the builders build what is on the drawing. The horse trading is between the architect and Building Control.
Time index 3.40 "Interesting feature where brick layer is pulled out slightly". I noticed that 5th row from bottom was out from row below. I assumed this was a mistake but is there a reason for this?
Skills impress me - whether it is brick laying, plastering, embroidary, inlays in cabinet making, art painting etc etc NOT the size of the car you can park on the drive to impress the neighbours.
To be honest kingspan et all is back too good prices, even so far as when I built my loft out getting on ten years ago, so I think they could go thicker with the regs.
I have seen 150mm, 200mm and even 300mm cavities on sites recently. What nonsense is this? This cannot be a viable way for house building to proceed into the future, and the large volumetric house builders wont view enormous cavities as economical into the future either - so then what? Next year the "Future homes standard" comes into force along side more tweeking of the Building regulations - so expect more of this stupidity coming to a cavity near you soon..... Does anyone really think Air sourced heat pumps are the future for heating homes at scale.?????? W.T.F
Some weeks are fat and some are thin. It is a hard game bringing in enough stuff to keep you awake but I hope you enjoyed the snooze and woke up refreshed.
How you can't get it that the wool insulation you used will soak moisture like sponge and will never dry out. Same as your foamcrete blocks. Unless you manufacturing penicillin from that mould you gonna get.
Silly isn't it? Feels like an odd comment to make. Our houses in this country aren't energy and thermally efficient enough and need to be better whether old or new. Especially if you want to keep your energy bills down.
It is silly because there are diminishing returns on insulation. The first 100mm is much more effective than the next 100mm. If they allowed you to build closer to the boundary it would help recover some of the lost space.
Nice to see some proper brickies at work, a skill that the poor Blair educational ideas frowned upon. So where are all these affordable houses going to appear from ?
Omw- troll city,give it a rest,great builder’s doing a great job while you lot who basically don’t have a clue sit around ordering Uber eats talking nonsense
@@martin2466 make you wonder why they even bother going to collage to learn a trade as once on new builds its out the window, no pride just figures figures ect sad
One thing I can't stand is tradesmen who show up in trackies, trainers and a hoodie. Especially when it's one guy in a crew. Total lack of professionalism, might as well show up in your PJs
Seriously, what if his workmanship is second to none, do you really care what he's wearing? And do you expect these guys to wear expensive clothes that get destroyed by cement and need thrown out regularly
We built 125mm cavity with 75mm pir and 50mm clear cavity up until this year. New regulations are now 90mm pir with 50mm clear cavity.
Never liked rock wool don’t like the idea of soaking wet rock wool in my cavity’s. It’s obviously a lot easier to fit than pir but pir is far superior and less chance of damp issues in the future. A cavity should be a cavity especially on brickwork imo.
Only trouble with larger cavities is either you get a smaller internal area or you'll have to build out more to get the same inside space as previously.
Came here to see what the internet experts were slagging off, best they could do is tracksuits - must be a good build
Yeah but the guy who drilled the holes for the three pipes should be sacked.
@@zorot3876 He did the brickwork under the padstone too 😁
@@CCCP8888when using that type of insulation how would you keep an air gap and prevent it from touching the outer skin?
@@zorot3876Agreed that was the only red flag I spotted, 🙄
@@olivergoodwin1348Personally I would be using Kingspan.
Very clean and tidy workers for the challenging conditions we have had lately, that site looks a bit tight on access too.
Notice that the chipboard flooring was glued together but not glued to the floor, glue and screwing to the floor makes a good solid job as recommended by the NHBC ( although they would not be involved in an extension)
Watching craftsmen in full flow is a beautiful thing. My father was a time served brick layer and later a general builder, though went into engineering I still appreciate the skill he had!
Get the feeling they really didn't want Roger there 😂
@@CCCP8888They’re using a breathable type of insulation so the air gap isn’t really necessary.
Chasing out the cavity in the existing wall is new regs to stop thermal bridging. Had this discussion with my BCO.
Existing cavity wall needs a vertical cut where the new wall meets it. Try doing that once youve built the new extension. Could be enforced by building control. Brickwork otherwise looks tidy.
Not required. The cut can weaken the corner
Cut is only in the outer skin for installation of vertical dpc. Ideally insulated if you want to avoid cold bridging. The structural skin is unaffected if an engineer requests it you can always install remedial wall ties for stiffness before you make the cut.
@@SkillBuilder existing outer leaf needs vertical cut to prevent damp tracking and cold bridge issues, inner leaf maintains structural integrity.
No cutting into the existing wall to continue the cavity or vertical damp ..?..
It is not always required. It is better to keep the strength in the corner
Surely that would create a bridge?
I agree, surely damp can penitrate through the original bricks into the extension?
The extension I built in mid 1980s used a Crocodile wall extension profile. Stainless plat screws to existing wall. Clip
In ties are built into the new wall. It’s not moved in 40 years and no problems with damp or cold bringing.
It makes sense that they want bigger cavity’s considering most older houses are having thick insulation blocks glued on to the outer brick work
And then having damp problems because wall can't breathe
Don’t think much of plumber and sparks on this job. Those holes through joists at the end all in the wrong places. Cables also out of safe zone where they dive round the steel. Wouldn’t have them working in my place!
I was thinking the same thing about the holes in the joists
Yep those pipes where shocking bad.
They wouldn't want to work for you anyway mate
That's tasty work, the scaffolding is a masterpiece especially with the roof on top of it. The only red flag i spotted was the plumbing, the joists should be drilled in the center along the neutral axis. Holes to be kept as small as possible with an allowance for expansion.
I’m curious what makes it good scaffolding please
@@Wgnwtb The roof on it, you'd never see that in Ireland. Paddy's too tight to pay for it! 🙄
@@Toyotaamazon80series lol thank you)
Pipes should have gone in before the Caberdeck was glued down. Plumbers would have been cursing. Builders probably thought Hep2o was going in.
@@nectafarious8842 You'd still have been able to drill through the centre of the joists from below.
Beautiful brickwork proper masters 💯👍👍👍
I'm always surprised that many trades are unaware of the rules regarding drilling and notching joists. The ones for the copper pipes caught my eye. Keep your holes for services in the middle of the joist and keep the hole size to a minimum. If you are drilling or cutting into any structural element as part of your work you need to be aware of the implications of what you are doing and what is acceptable... especially if its a task you are doing on a daily basis. Sometimes people wonder why floors of old properties are bouncy and when you lift the floor boards and see how many holes and notches have been added to the joist over the years, both top and bottom, then you realise the joist has lost almost a 3rd of its structural depth.
That is all in the existing buildimg. You won't thread copper through the middle of the joists.
@@SkillBuilder Sorry, but 8:22 is definitely _not_ in the existing building, and there are three copper pipes with _huge_ holes through every joist. Those holes look to break several of the LABC/NHBC guidance. (Not on joist center-line, holes not spaced 3x diameter center-to-center, holes too close to supporting wall -
@@stephen-boddy You've just BUSED skillbuilder
Great to see skilled English craftsmen doing a decent job.
Great watching the skill here.
I do hate these chipboard floors though, had it in a bedroom and squeaked like crazy.
The obvious thing you see in a class act , is a flow in there work . less yapping because they all know there job. Really nice to see boys .
Im using 125 and 150 xtratherm pir cavity fill with the plastic front... and if its pumped walls they want 200mm cavity... in Ireland we don't really use the rockwool version for cavities
All you need is 100 mm cavity
60 mm insulation and 40mm air flow result is your never get damp or mould, period..
yea, but buiding regs are over the top
2:25 150 cavity for the wool insulation if you use PIR still under 100
3:55
I had to do my own calcs to convince BC I could use 100mm PIR on a garage conversion. What a menace.
I went through this recently where our architect/engineer had given specs according to old building regs. Since we had already built the walls up to damp level, I also had to switch to the special PIR tongue & groove insulation boards which probably doubled the cost on insulation. However, (based on calculations) it overachieved the required level. The bricklayers (from Moldova) did an awesome job even though it wasn't an easy job.
@@jonp6798 If you live in a weather-sheltered area, filling 100mm with normal PIR is probably accepted. I live in a sheltered area as well. But I thought of sticking to 10-20mm air gap between the PIR and the external wall while using 90mm tongue and groove PIR boards (even though they are freaking expensive) to stay out of trouble from building control. They say that rain penetration can happen across joints unless they are tongue & groove style boards. Not sure if it has been proven or utter BS for selling something at a higher price.
Good informative UA-cam video as usual RB. With regards to thermal cavity wall insulation, I’ve never favoured AIRCRETE bl’wk being used to improve thermal values, as the inner cavity wall leaf is really for load bearing requirements from floor & roof loads & certain beams/lintels etc. Therefore, a dense aggregate block will tend to perform better structurally than AIRCRETE block & with all the inherent fixing issues to AIRCRETE.
As for the insulation full fill within the cavity with face brickwork outer leaf, a waterproof insulant rather than a water resistant/repellent additive material should be a consideration, the cost difference shouldn't be that much higher. Also over time, a mineral wool type product could slump within the cavity compared with a rigid T+G board. A basic thermal calc will identify the cavity width required & what type of insulation board to achieve the current elemental U-value, this being 0.18W/m²K for outer walls. The example below achieves this with dense bl'wk & a 10mm residual cavity using this type of quality insulation, i.e. 125mm o/a cavity. Water ingress from driving rain could bridge a full fill insulated cavity with certain brick types, even small imperfections, so any residual cavity will assist, I guess everyone has their preferred methods :-)
Rsi
1 15 0.180 0.083 Gyproc Wallboard 12.5mm+skim
2 15 R-value 0.170 Drylining - plaster dab cavity
3 100 1.080 0.093 MasterDenz (agg1960) Internal
4 10 R-value 0.290 Cavity unventilated low-E (0.2)
5 115 R-value 5.200 Recticel Eurowall+
6 103 0.840 0.123 Brick outer leaf
Rse 0.040
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
U-value (rounded) 0.18 W/m²K
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
👌
👌
150mm drytherm cavity insulation. Amzing difference. Builders were complaining "insulation doesn't make any difference anyway". I said to them, when its cold do you wear a coat?.....silence.
In the future, houses will be made entirely from insulation
SIP is the future... Or present 😂
@@Crogookah Certainly one way to go. And S.I.P`s is good.
I have done "Passive-Haus" and "Huf -House" triple glazed windows, air-tight structure with MHVRS Now that is the way to go.............
My woodwork teacher told us that the adhesive was stronger than the actual timber members being joined together. I can still remember the look he gave me when I asked "Why don't we make furniture out of adhesive then?". With heating bills at current levels I'm beginning to think I'll have to move into a new spec home and leave our 150 year old stonebuilt cottage behind. There's a limit to how much roof insulation, double glazing etc. can do when there are 2ft thick walls soaking up interior heating.
They’re called bricks 😂
@@johndavenport7281 I built the house we currently live in. The walls are a insulated/composite timber system with brick rain screen cladding. Triple glazed windows on west/North and East elevations. High levels of insulation to sub floor/ loft and intermediate floors. almost fully sealed with an internal ventilation and recovery system. U - values achieved easily far exceed current required standards and E.P.C =A* rated.
It is the only way to go.....
Are those wall ties long enough for a 150 cavity ?
Use 90mm pir board and keep the 100mm cavity.
I put 10 mm pea shingle around my crates on a soakaway also 100 mm under the crates
Qq..my neighbours ground is 350mm higher than mine. The external wall cavity tray will still need to be 150mm above it. Should insulation go beneath the cavity tray too…?
2:14 Does the cavity have to be 150, or it just has to be that unless you use the more expensive 90 type? Your room could be 12cm bigger if you use the more expensive insulation?
Is quiet floors to joists now not required?
bigger cavities = smaller internal areas
Warmer though. Cheaper on the bills.
You can't afford to lose an extra 2inc can ya pal? 🍆
Not many cares, as long as houses are shown on the market with a description of how many bedrooms, instead of square meters, like the rest of the world.
Celotex Thermaclass 21 is a full fill rigid insulation that meets current u-values and is 100 mm thick installed in a 100 mm cavity
Expect this to change again in the future to increase the insulation values even more. And all for the better. Just need industry to find a way to do it cheaper.
New, thick insulation and still metal rod as thermal bridges. Someone has to start thinking.
Why do you bring up the brick leaf first? I have only ever seen the inner leaf leading?
you can do either but most of the time you should bring them up together
Nice to see building regs insisting on a lot of insulation. The only trouble is that in 50 years time the insulation will have shrunk and not be so effective, will these extensions have to be filled with foam?
U should do an eps on SIPS… there a new build art deco style house built out of SIPS with curved walls and everything, would never know its SIPS. Look amazing!!
S.I.P`s is one of the ways to go for mass market construction.
@@martin2466 what's s.i.p? Ive never heard of it
Why no insulation on the side wall, just the rear?
Is this correct? The new extension bricks not lining up with the original house would kill my OCD! (7.10)
It’s about levels ark
Some of the wall ties seemed a bit short
Masters at work.....we love these videos, Roger.
Nice video!
Nice edit and post.
They look and sound like good guys. Most of these recent insulation rules are going way over the top.
Disagree. British housing stock is old and antiquated. New builds need to be better insulated. My house has been renovated to part L regs. So, 150mm drythem cavity.in the walls.etc.... Barely needs heating and keeps a far more constant temperature, so comfortable.
The people making the rules haven't got to pay for the materials
06:48 Is that a bit wonky or do I need a new visual cortex?
It's the angle of the dangle...
Very nice brickwork, are they NESCOT lads by any chance?
Those holes through the joists for copper pipes are miles away from the centreline!
Just waiting for a plasterboard screw to go through one of them, very naughty!
The plumber was left alone. The joists had to be doubled up to overcome it. Also metal plates protecting the pipes
@@SkillBuilder you mean the “plumber” was left alone. 😀
150 cavity is a great development. Unless you like bills!
Why are they not installing dry-fix ridge and hip tiles?
If the existing building has bedded ridges or hips you don't have to dry fix. They build to the drawing and all of it is passed by Building Control
How would you deal with the stepped out brick courses if at a later date you wanted to add External Wall Insulation ?
You just cut the insulation around the corbel. It is done all the time
All that extra work covering up because of the weather.
But are you making any money building extensions?
I stopped building extensions years ago. I just do roofing now,....... when its not raining!!
Good luck guys, hard work dose pay.
I bought a new build with London Brick about forty years ago built with the "frog" (dimple in the brick) placed down. I noticed bricklayers in this SB vid placed the bricks frog up. That's the correct way I think as the other way caused serious problems. Face of the bricks blown out by frost particularly below DPC. They did it this way because its quicker as less mortar is needed. Funny though, the last course they laid before they went home were always frog up! lol Dave
Upon taking off the render on our outhouse due to failure and spalled bricks I too discovered that the bricks had been laid upside down with massive air pockets in the frogs. To make matters worse they had mixed a far too strong cement mortar and render so that it was no wonder the bricks were spalling. The only time I have decided to lay bricks frog down (with filled frogs) was on the top course of a dwarf wall in a greenhouse so that the frame could be laid and sealed to an even surface. I've repointed and re-rendered with lime to improve water transmission and built a toolshed extension on the worst west facing gable to protect the outhouse. If I'd discovered similar on my house then it would need major replacement, not everything was better in the "good old days".
@@johndavenport7281 Interesting John
Tidy squad
Love to see good skilled builders especially brickies. In my day, most would cheat and lay the bricks with 'frogs' down. Nice work.
Glad they’ve got good soil for the soak away. Ours is just a subterranean pond in our Essex clay!
There’s no way on this planet those pipes allowed to be cut in to the bottom half of the joist? Surely that’s against building regs?
They should be notched into the top of the joist closer to the bearing point, where the joist is in compression rather than below the neutral axis where the joist is in tension.
You are right Dean, you should never notch the underside or do anything past the centre line. It was the plumber let loose. The joists had to be beefed up with extra ones to get over the issue.
The wall ties didn't look long enough to get 50mm into the blockwork.
Don't worry, they're tied to the wool :D
You could well be right.
It's ok, the wool is "rock" wool.
@@rumco Wool is flexible/non-structural, the two leaf's need tying together directly.
😂@@leggy6234
I thought the tile ridges needed to be the dry modern method?
Not on a traditional roof where you are matching existing.
@@SkillBuilder Understood - good to know for the future 👍
Another one 🥴 got profiles but I don't use them on stuff like this, rather pick level up thousand times
150 cavity? must be nice for people with a side space issue. Getting Crazy!
@@CCCP8888 I think the insulation regulation depth is unreasonable on an extension build myself personally. These Net Zero loons are going to destroy this country with their bs.
Great video Roger, looking good 👍
Looks as though it’s got an over hang on the corner 4 courses up that can’t be intentional can it as it does overhang along all the course unless it’s the camera angle
Time index 3.40. I thought it was 5 rows up but maybe we are talking about a different issue. Is the overhang a mistake or deliberate?
Nice . That Tin hat was a massive help 🧱👍🏽🌧️🌧️💦
I’m after a porch built in Merseyside, any chance of a quote?
Why is it knowing the damp issues I've encountered over the years with full fill cavities albeit injected glass fibre, this goes right against the grain???
😯 14-inch think walls ... what next 2ft thick walls
That’s what my house has, built about 1780 - cozee
Cotswolds is now natural stone 150 on bed, 150 cavity, 100 inner skin. Try coring through that lot for your extraction ducting...
@@nectafarious8842
nuts
Why ain’t they cut a cavity, or even a saw cut in cavity of where new meets old 🤔
Because it is not required. The engineers and architects give the builder a drawing which is passed by Building Control and then the builder builds what is on the drawing. If you start cutting the cavity near a corner you have weakened the structure. If the engineer says to do it then it is their insurance that pays.
They change the rules, so some big company can make money.
nice
As the brickie said these rules are mad. We like living in freezing cold draughty buildings and spending a fortune on gas and electricity because that’s what we have always done and we are British. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴
I was speaking to a builder the other day whos doing a extension and he said the 150 is only for new build he did cavitys in wool 100mm. has anybody actually read the exact wording of the regs. and does it depend on your area im in north yorkshire
My architects said it applies to extensions too and drew my plans with 150mm cavity, as said 100mm doing it with special PIR is prohibitively expensive…. However my builder said we can still do 100mm with PIR for extra £600. I would say thats reasonable and worth paying to save 3 x 50mm internal wall space, also means dont have to pay more for longer brick ties, wider lintels, cavity closers etc… from what ive heard getting 50mm longer brick ties cost 100% more than regular.
Pay for a home energy survey, £280 and keep your 100mm cavities.
You can trade off by beefing up the existing to bring you up to a decent standard but the builders build what is on the drawing. The horse trading is between the architect and Building Control.
That scaffolding roof must have cost a fortune 🤷♂️. Nice for the lads working though
Time index 3.40 "Interesting feature where brick layer is pulled out slightly". I noticed that 5th row from bottom was out from row below. I assumed this was a mistake but is there a reason for this?
Purely decorative.
Flip flops are the way to go 😂
I prefer kingspan or celitex because it’s closed cell, I would be interested in your thoughts
Skills impress me - whether it is brick laying, plastering, embroidary, inlays in cabinet making, art painting etc etc NOT the size of the car you can park on the drive to impress the neighbours.
must cost a fortune for a little extra space. Lots of work
it is quite a bit more space with a new kitchen and cloakroom
Shouldn’t there be 4 inch kinkspan inbetween the joist before caberfloor goes down?
that is the upstairs. The insulation in that void is Rockwool for sound and fire. It is put in from below.
I’m putting in 90mm is the 150 material substantially better ?
No the 90mm PUR board is the same as the 150mm mineral wool. The trouble with pur is sealing the gaps. The mineral wool is faster
To be honest kingspan et all is back too good prices, even so far as when I built my loft out getting on ten years ago, so I think they could go thicker with the regs.
I have seen 150mm, 200mm and even 300mm cavities on sites recently. What nonsense is this? This cannot be a viable way for house building to proceed into the future, and the large volumetric house builders wont view enormous cavities as economical into the future either - so then what?
Next year the "Future homes standard" comes into force along side more tweeking of the Building regulations - so expect more of this stupidity coming to a cavity near you soon..... Does anyone really think Air sourced heat pumps are the future for heating homes at scale.??????
W.T.F
Air source heat pumps are not the answer to the boiler replacement issue for the domestic housing market, at scale.....
#heatpumpsareshit.
Am they heck
zzzzzzz what did I just fall asleep to? Not much on this week Roger!
Some weeks are fat and some are thin. It is a hard game bringing in enough stuff to keep you awake but I hope you enjoyed the snooze and woke up refreshed.
wall insulation regs are overkill for extensions
How you can't get it that the wool insulation you used will soak moisture like sponge and will never dry out. Same as your foamcrete blocks. Unless you manufacturing penicillin from that mould you gonna get.
It has a water repellent face.
Silly isn't it? Feels like an odd comment to make. Our houses in this country aren't energy and thermally efficient enough and need to be better whether old or new. Especially if you want to keep your energy bills down.
Dont worry new legislation is on the way. Future homes standard, comes into force next year and thats just the beginning.
It is silly because there are diminishing returns on insulation. The first 100mm is much more effective than the next 100mm. If they allowed you to build closer to the boundary it would help recover some of the lost space.
Who would be a bricky in this god awful climate !
All I know is how to lay bricks😂
The background music to this vlog reminds me of my old man's porn (VHS) collection… in black and white 🫣
Then it should have made you very happy with those fond memories.
Old men crying about 150mm.
40 years ago crying about double glazing.
❤
My dad moaned about cordless drills 🙄
@@gdfggggg But they are amazing. The time savings must be almost countless.
Is it a wonder young people don't want to be builders and tradesmen. Just pain. I'm one and unfortunately know.
Young people are soft as butter, no character, mental toughness or back bone.
@@martin2466 Agreed, ninety percent of them are useless.
Nice to see some proper brickies at work, a skill that the poor Blair educational ideas frowned upon. So where are all these affordable houses going to appear from ?
Not keen on 150mm cavity, so do 100mm with 25mm celotex on the inside block face, dop dab.
You can't dot and dab Celotex
He means insulated plasterboard
Omw- troll city,give it a rest,great builder’s doing a great job while you lot who basically don’t have a clue sit around ordering Uber eats talking nonsense
Not being funny but those blokes don’t need the myther of you filming and stuff .
Very true, nobody needs a film crew. We are going to set up a new channel to bring you hours and hours of nothing.
yet new builds are shocking and getting worse
@@martin2466 make you wonder why they even bother going to collage to learn a trade as once on new builds its out the window, no pride just figures figures ect sad
@@namAlexanderAgreed. Seems it’s one rule for big construction and another for your average builder
One thing I can't stand is tradesmen who show up in trackies, trainers and a hoodie. Especially when it's one guy in a crew. Total lack of professionalism, might as well show up in your PJs
How would you like them to turn up? In a suit maybe
Don’t often see bricks going up before the block work 🤔 not up north anyway
@@royduncancarter1467 i always do bricks first if possible and am up north and been that way for last 30 years
Seriously, what if his workmanship is second to none, do you really care what he's wearing? And do you expect these guys to wear expensive clothes that get destroyed by cement and need thrown out regularly
@@denty32 Silk pyjamas or nothing as far as I'm concerned!
Get a life
I hate that red brick so much. Even new builds look like shit in England.
Lego land