I just watched Chris sharmas video on this same climb and he has a different beta on the last move right after the mono (he goes out left and does a gnarly drop knee while Stefano uses a crimp 3:52). Sharma states in the video that this is the last hard move which he kept falling at. I wonder if Sharma used Stefanos beta to finally link the climb or he did it his own way. Props to both climbers either way.
First Ascent: Chris Sharma - April 19, 2011 Second Ascent: Adam Ondra - February 03, 2014 Third Ascent: Alexander Megos - December 31, 2015 Fourth Ascent: Stefano Ghisolfi - January 30, 2017
Very late reply, but if I remember right, going straight up is also the method Sharma used when he eventually sent it. It was trying to use the “wrong” beta that prevented him from getting it for so long, and once he figured out a different way of doing it he got it fairly quickly.
he does the crux so different than chris sharma or alex megos ! incredible
The way this was shot is really good at conveying how overhung this route is,
Such a savage route!
The video is 5:15 in length (conspiracy confirmed)
I see it's 5:14, maybe the route was downgraded :P
I just watched Chris sharmas video on this same climb and he has a different beta on the last move right after the mono (he goes out left and does a gnarly drop knee while Stefano uses a crimp 3:52). Sharma states in the video that this is the last hard move which he kept falling at. I wonder if Sharma used Stefanos beta to finally link the climb or he did it his own way. Props to both climbers either way.
First Ascent: Chris Sharma - April 19, 2011
Second Ascent: Adam Ondra - February 03, 2014
Third Ascent: Alexander Megos - December 31, 2015
Fourth Ascent: Stefano Ghisolfi - January 30, 2017
Just noticed that as well. I'm curious which one of the ascentionists discovered the beta of going straight up instead of Chris's old method.
Very late reply, but if I remember right, going straight up is also the method Sharma used when he eventually sent it. It was trying to use the “wrong” beta that prevented him from getting it for so long, and once he figured out a different way of doing it he got it fairly quickly.
Grandissimo Stefano! Che forza!
incredible stefano! what a guy
Very nice video realization!
great job. that video was lit
Amazing...... Congratulations man 💪💪💪
Last move he's on slab and he's like "how do I do this...?"
I'm joking, I'm joking.
I have always problems on slabs!
Rad send dude, absolute legend
Good to see it happens at every level! Haha! Awesome send man!
hahahah yeees, that last moment before clipping got my palms sweaty just watching. Good job Stefano!
Would love an uncut version without music :)
what is song from 1:40?
grandissimo
That was sick
SO Good.
1:45 Ok vado!! :-) grande!
VAI GHISOOOO!
The editing destroys this video.
I supose it's not his first send :) because the belayer should be Alex Megos then.
Anyway great footage! Congrats
Yes, nice observation! thanks
wandering..are you planning on going "dura dura" mode? You are really on your best shape man, am i wrong?
+Raul Suarez yes it could be the project for this winter
good luck man, you gonna make it!
Alex megos hardest belay :)
Ma parla in italiano dai