I learned to weld with 6010, it was all we had beside some old bare wire welding rod. We had a SAE 300 and hundreds of pounds of 6010 after a few months of this I could run a decent bead. You bring back memories Greg, thank you.
Thanks for sharing your story. That’s a hell of a way to learn to stick weld lol. I bet it took all that time to make a decent looking weld. When ran 6010 for the first time I had 1/8th rods and 1/8th steel, and I couldn’t make a weld without holes 😅.
Я из россии и мне нравятся ваши видео. Самые толковые видео по сварке труб - из штатов. Мне нравятся ваши чертовы винтажные сварочные генераторы с кучей меди в обмотках. Я - некоммерческий сварщик, только для домашней работы ее использую. По английски понимаю, но пишу по-русски специально, чтоб обратили внимание. переведете через Гугл, если что. Привет всем американским сварщикам, по видео которых я учился работать.
Great video Greg. I just got a new to me, Dialarc 250 ac/dc. Much to my surprise, my Dialarc and me really get along well together using 6010 5p. The metal I am using is repurposed, scrap, cleaned as well as I can, and I am really enjoying the crisp, precise arc of 6010 5p. My beads don't look too bad either. My old Dialarc, of course, doesn't have modern arc control features, but it is a joy to use. Thank you for your videos, Greg.
You’re welcome for the videos 😀. Those dialarc 250s are a treat to weld with. Other than hardly being portable and dimming lights when above 120 amps they are awesome lol. They actually have good output on DC, unlike the smaller buzz boxes/tombstones that had limited DC output. Sure it may not have all the modern controls, but it really doesn’t matter. Glad to hear yours is treating you well. If I had the space (and the power to run one lol) I would have the same welder no doubt. 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Fortunately, for me, portability is not a requirement. Power wise, at the moment I run my dialarc off a 30amp dryer plug circuit and breaker. I did not trip the 30amp breaker until I ran a long bead with a 7024 at 175amps. I expected the latter to occur though. My dryer wiring did not even get slightly warm. Mostly I weld at less than 100amps and have no issues at all. When I get caught up with my other chores, I'll run a dedicated welder circuit, but I'll never need to run my welder at max power, so I'll probably go with a 50Amp breaker and wiring. For anyone reading this, and to emphasize a point, my dryer wiring and plug is protected by a 30amp breaker. If an over load occurs the breaker will trip, protecting my wiring. Where people run into issues is when they install a fuse or circuit breaker that can handle more current, with out upgrading the circuitry after the breaker. Thanks for your comment Greg.
@@petertyrrell6690 great tip on the wiring and you’re right, that breaker should protect the wiring and yours is setup right. I used to have a ideal arc 250 (basically Lincoln’s equivalent to the miller) and I had it on a 50 amp breaker. The recommended on 240 volt was a direct wire to 70+ amp breaker lol. I bet yours says the same thing. I did what you mentioned, ran it on a 50 and called it good. Not much would I ever be welding on that would need anywhere near 250 amps (or the 300 amps that welder could do on AC lol).
Nice video and it’s very informative. When I was learning to weld, I was started out with 6010. It was definitely a struggle!!! If my memory serves me correct, I thought that I heard somewhere that 5p and 5p+ are kinda signatory to Lincoln electrodes. Every once in a while on a job I’ll find some 6010 and hoard it. It works pretty good for burning out galvanized roots that someone didn’t pre grind. Whipping 7018 works too but 6010 does a better job, then 7018 for the caps. I’m enjoying the content
Thanks for the kind words. You might be right on the 5p and + being Lincoln specific. I recently heard esab makes a 10p 6010, which I have never ran that (I will have to find some). I always liked 6010 because many people can’t run it well so i can get boxes/cans of it for free or cheap. Once you learn how to run it its awesome, I can’t imagine not having it around.
Thanks for the comparisons. Maybe try the grey Hobart 6010 on AC or a cheap inverter welder to see if it will run at all. Since it looks like the Hobart 6011. Great video.
I did just that 😀. The video is set to go live tonight as far as welding the Hobart on the cheaper welder. I also tested all the 6010s I have on AC with interesting results, that will be live Tuesday at the latest. 😀
The Hobart 6011 did *NOT* want to run on the AHP-160 ($300 box; defunct now) *AT ALL.* That welder didn’t like cellulosic rods period. It ran other rods good, though.
at 23:45 you mentioned "as the plate gets hotter, you run more amperage". you were running 6010P plus on that pass near the plate edge. I am a bit surprised that amperage would increase "as plate gets hotter". I can understand the puddle being more liquid and slower to solidify when the plate is hotter.....but is the amperage really higher? just trying to understand.
If you weld near a edge it welds as though the amperage is higher. Same thing if you do multi passes without letting a plate cool. Basically you have to adjust amperage based on this. On thick plate it’s less of a issue but on thinner plate not dropping amperage could be the difference between a weld and blowing holes through the metal lol. Too hot of a weld can cause poor grain structure as well (both from too hot of a weld or too hot of a preheat in the plate) which can result in failed destructive testing results.
Glad it helped you out. 6010 can be a challenge but it’s 100% worth it learning to weld with it. If you find 6010 to be too difficult don’t be afraid to use 6011 as a starting point. 6011 has a bit more liquid of a weld pool so it’s more forgiving. 6010 definitely has more penetration than 6011 though.
I don’t have a video on those yet, but I will do one this weekend, so it should be out by mon or Tuesday. I have a box of them somewhere. I recall they run more like a 6013 then a 7024, I am sure I will get them to run good somehow lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Thank you. Your videos make learning to weld fun and easy to understand for the novice and us old guys that need a good brushing up. 👍👍😊
As a fyi I have shot the 7014 video and it will be up in the next 2 days. I am not sure if it’s the rods I have but they ran a bit rough in the bead on plate and vertical up that I tested them with. On a flat lap weld they looked good. Definitely tricky to run uphill.
E6010 can run on AC. You just need a charge big enough to overload that or any electrode. I'd love to see a video of someone connecting two buzz boxes in parallel.
That’s correct. A clean weld that’s consistent with 6010 means you have all the skills needed to be decent with stick (proper travel speed, arc gap, smooth consistent movement, etc). It’s a great measuring stick to determine where your stick weld skills are.
Great demo! Which rod, Red 5P or 5P+ would be recommended when running vertical? Would the 5P+ puddle beads take too long to freeze and then produce a drippy-looking weld?
All 6010 runs uphill just fine. The average person would find the grey 5p+ rods to run a bit smoother uphill I think. It tends to “fingernail” less, basically the flux melts off more even which gives a more consistent arc. The red rods can have the flux melt off inconsistent which causes the arc to wander a bit more. Edit: the weld pool is far less likely to drip like most other rods. Normally what an inexperienced person struggles with on uphill with 6010 is serious undercut on the toes of the weld. You must move slow enough to deposit metal, or the arc will just leave gouged out metal.
So Greg, logistically, since the 6010 is a fast freeze rod, what's the value of whipping and pausing, vs just slow dragging it like a 7018? Wouldn't that produce a 'smoother' appearance bead?
So this is the interesting thing, 6010 tends to run fairly poorly if you just drag it. The red rods tend to have issues with the flux burning off at an angle (called finger nailing) and it becomes very difficult to control the arc. By lengthening and shortening the arc (dipping it into the puddle and out)it helps keep the flux knocked off smooth, therefore the arc more stable. Being able to whip it out of the puddle also allows you to let the molten metal freeze and fill gaps. The grey 5p+ rods tend to not fingernail much and can be run easier with a simple straight bead without arc stability issues. Even so some manipulation tends to make a more consistent width weld 👍.
Hi, I’ve subscribed. Just wondering, when you whip and pause, how doesn’t it cause inclusions when you go over frozen part again? Can you please explain?
Thanks for the subscription 😀. That is a great question, and i have a couple thoughts as to why. Hope they help: 1: so when you whip forward and back the powdered flux that turned to liquid in/on the weld is still liquid (not solid). When you run back over it the liquid simply gets pushed away from the area. 2: 6010 has a very aggressive arc and it strips most everything out of the weld pool area. It’s not common to have slag inclusions ever with 6010 for this reason (provided the amperage is close to right). 3: The flux composition is very light and flakey vs dense like 6013 or 7018. 6013 for me can be a bastard with slag inclusions because as soon as the slag cools off it’s solid, and the molten metal will solidify around the solid slag. 6010 simply doesn’t have a flux that turns to slag like that. 4: the fact you weld with 6010 on DCEP (which is common for most rods) also helps because electrons are jumping from the work piece to the tip of the rod, this effectively strips some of the surface contaminates off, which is sort of a cleaning action. Although in my own testing any effect of this seems to be minimal and difficult to actually see. Lastly the penetration of 6010 is very high due to the voltage it runs at. In my own testing it’s common to see 30-50% increase in penetration over say 6013. That deep penetration is due to higher arc voltage, and high arc voltage produces a ton of heat for the amperage it runs at. Basically the heat to deposited metal ratio favors heat over metal. This is a great recipe for low risk of slag inclusion, again, due to the heat. A rod like 6013 favors metal deposition over heat input and combined with a massive amount of flux, it simply is more prone to slag inclusions. The extreme end of this would be 7024, which deposits a stupid amount of slag (think double the thickness of 6013 and double the width weld) and that rod you would never want to manipulate or your going to risk slag inclusion for sure. Those are my thoughts as to why, hope they help 😀
Great video! I tried 6010 yesterday. It was harder than 6013, but with some practice, it should get better. The flux on it was the red one and one big problem was that it would catch on fire (not from sticking the rod, just breaking the arc at the end of a bead) and then it was impossible to restart. Is this a known problem with the red flux variety? Thanks
So the red rods tend to be a very agressive arc, and it’s very common for the rod to burn far up inside the flux. To restart the rod you want to pinch the flux off a bit and try it again. They tend to stick easier during starts, it just takes some getting used to. The grey 5p+ rods tend to be a bit smoother and less prone to unusual/unequal flux burning off.
Hello. Good video. Thanks for the info. I have 1/8 6011 rod padding beads on 1/2 plate. I'm set to 110amps, think the amps are good? I noticed about half way through the rod it seems to start burning differently. And this is continuous, every rod does it. Hot or cold plate. Is this typical with 6011?
Thanks and welcome. So I tend to run 1/8th 6010 at 105 to 110, it definitely seems to like more amperage than 6010. For half inch plate padding beads 100% you’re good to go at that (unless your machine is way off and 110 is actually 130 lol). 6011 tends to do what you describe, as the rod heats up there is a difference. Part of it may be due to the arc length getting a bit longer on you without realizing it. If you snap out of the arc a second after you notice the change, and look at how far the tip of the rod is recessed inside of the flux. Compare that to doing the same thing shortly after starting a rod. If the rod is recessed more after you notice the arc change it’s due to a long arc. To fix it allowing the rod to dig into the plate a bit and then lifting up will melt the flux off quite a bit and effectively shorten the arc. If the rod tips seem the same then it could just be a issue of the rod/flux itself heating up. Changing to a different brand rod may help, but like I said I have noticed tendencies like that with 6010. If you haven’t practiced it much or are unsure how to, the video below I made specifically on whipping and pausing with 6010. 6010 runs close enough to 6011 that you will surely be able to use some tips from that video to help you out. The big thing with 6011 is per inch of weld you should have less rod left than 7018 or many other rods. If you travel as fast forward as 7018 your weld will be roped up and thin. You want the exact same or wider width weld with 6011 as 7018. It just requires feeding more rod in per inch and progressing slower forward. Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/ZxH_MiWdZz0/v-deo.htmlsi=LcacXno2wTDaHdCZ
@@makingmistakeswithgreg my machine is about 5 amps off. I'm at 115 which is why I stated 110. I could hook up my meter again and double check too. Okay. This is good info, I might be high arcing too much when I whip and pause as I am new to it. I just passed my 2f test with 7018. I thought it was weird that about halfway through the rod I had to slow down or manipulate a little differently.... I do have forney rod 3/32 6011 I can try instead of my cheap Vulcan rod 6011 1/8. I appreciate the response. I'll watch your video!
@@jordan1234564 yeah some rods definitely do run a bit different, however some of it is just the nature of the particular rod. I generally find how a 6010 runs on a weld is based on how good your start is. Sometimes it’s a fire breathing dragon and it’s hard to get under control, other times it’s fairly smooth. Once the arc gap gets too long it’s tough to bring back under control. 6011 is a bit more forgiving but still has similar tendencies. Kind of like arc blow with a rod, it’s possible to get it under control but you have to be fast with it.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg so I played with a different brand 6011, randor. It welded just about the same all the way through, it had a slight change about half way through. But not much. The vulcan 6011 is a big change about half way through. I did play with the amps. On Vulcan, it burns better at 90-100amps rather than 110. With a somewhat noticeable change. The randor was pretty consistent with any amps, even 125 with such a slight change halfway through. So I take it, with Vulcan, turn the amps down, and weld slower with a little more dig and slower fill because of the lower amps.
@@jordan1234564 Great update 😀. Based on what you’re saying I bet the Vulcan is a issue where the metal rod is heating up and putting enough heat into the flux that it’s changing how it runs. It might sound crazy but if you put a caliper on both rods I bet you might find out that the Vulcan is thinner in diameter. A couple weeks ago I did that with a tub of mostly 7018s I had laying around (basically random half sticks and rods that fell on the floor that I use for non critical work). 99% of them were 1/8th in rods and shockingly enough there was a ton of variation in size lol. It caught me by surprise and that definitely will play a role in how a rod runs. That’s why when I find a rod I like I just buy that brand, I know what I am getting. I like Esabs 7018 prime, every rod I have ran in every size they make runs exactly the same and predictably the same. There 6010 red rod is far more variable pack to pack-rod to rod.
It sounds like a new welding student should start learning with 7018 before trying 6010? Or should both be tried to learn how different techniques should be used early in the learning process?
You know that’s a great question, I will give my opinion. Welding is a lot of a “how much frustration and failure can you handle” situation. Many people like to see “success” fairly fast and often, and if progress isn’t seen fast enough they quit. It is entirely possible to learn to weld with 6010, it will just take longer to make decent beads. The pay off would be that if you can run 6010 well the rest of the rods are far easier. Now learning on 7018 is probably easier than 6010, and isn’t a bad way to go. Most stick welders that do paid work use 7018-6010 exclusively (or specialty rods like nickel), so the sooner someone can run 7018 the better off they are. In most cases students learn on 6013 and 7014 first because it’s easier to learn on. Generally speaking many people can make decent beads with 6013/7014/7018. Their beads with 6010 tend to look poor because it doesn’t mask inconsistencies of travel speed or arc gap. It also requires slower travel speed than 7018. 6010 is a great way to see how consistent a person is, the more consistent in movement and travel speed the better the weld looks like.
Hey Greg with this 6010 will it better to shut off th hot start function in my machine ?….great content ur videos are incredibly knowledgeable thank u always🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
So hot start with 6010 is a slippery slope. If you run it with it in I would keep it on the lower side if it’s adjustable. Try it without it at first. The issue with 6010 is if you long arc the start and have hot start on it will undercut the start area so bad that you will never be able to fill it to get rid of the undercut. 6010 tends to have a real aggressive start anyways so the hot start tends to be less of a issue with it. 7018 absolutely have it on.
The red rods are about as fast of a freezing and harsh arc as you can get. They do penetrate extremely well though. I use them a fair amount on poorly prepped materials and to weld shut holes.
Great question. The whipping can help with arc blow. Some 6010 rods (mainly the red ones) can “fingernail”, where the arc basically blows out the side of the rod and leaves an extended “fingernail” like piece of flux on the rod. This can happen with incorrect rod angle or just because the flux is so thin the arc blows right through it. By whipping/digging the rod into the plate a bit you basically melt off the developing fingernail and it keeps the arc more stable. You don’t have to whip and pause or any other manipulation on many things, but expect to struggle a bit with arc blow. Also, on open root downhill you generally don’t have to whip at all, especially with the grey 5p+ rods that don’t tend to fingernail. Keep in mind too that the manipulation is very beneficial when bridging a gap, by steeping out of the puddle it freezes allowing you to come back to it to deposit metal. Doing such a thing with 7018 doesn’t help much because the puddle is too liquid.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg was having so much trouble with the red rods and had no idea what I was doing wrong until I watched this video. Still have some arc blow everyone and then but I did notice that fingernail you’re talking about. I will try to pick up some of the 5p+ to practice with. Biggest rod I’m having trouble with right now is 6013!
I read a lot of comments where someone says they can't use a particular rod.. Leaves me wondering what brand and which version . I wish content creators and comments would say witch one, what polarity and amps. I can't stand 6013 even though it is a all position (some call it quick freeze) rod, but there must be a 6013 out there for me...but all the 6013s have been a hot mess. I have a book from Todd Bridgiham, that says 6010 can have 0-10% iron powder in the flux, 6011- 0%, 6013- 0-10%, 7014- 25-40%, 7018- 25-45%. Iron powder becomes part of the filler ( deposition rate), makes a smooth bead (aka slows freeze) and takes a little more current than just some iron-less rods. I guess if I bought a $800 code book I could verify that. There are a lot of other additives that will effect the final behaviour too. Thus you will see all different comments about why someone loves or hates a particular rod. The manufacturer is playing with the fried chicken recipe crust.
You bring up something that most people don’t know, and that is every brands AWS spec rods can have a different blend of “herbs and spices”. American welding society sets min/max to call a rod a “7018” and there is enough room for special blends. I have ran a ton of brand rods and universally they weld similar, but some do weld better. 6013 must be the widest range of acceptability because those run massively different. In some countries their 6013s function like the common USA 6011, with a more aggressive faster freezing arc. I found this out when I realized overseas they use 6013 on a root pass on pipe. I didn’t believe that would work at all but then I found out their 6013 doesn’t run like ours. Like you I don’t like 6013. It runs out of position poorer than most rods. It is so prone to slag inclusions, and it has limited penetration. I use 6011, 6010, 7018, 7024, and special use rods all the time. 6013 I virtually never use. It’s good to train people to stick weld, and it will run on virtually anything lol.
Please stay consistent with the rod designations. Very confusing with 5P, Red Rod, Hobart, 6010/6011, grey rod, blah, blah blah. Very confusing but thanks for the information.
They are all different rods and unfortunately they run differently. If you buy red rod 6010 and you’re used to grey rod 6010 they run completely different. Some machines will also run grey rod but not red. The rods are referred to by colors and 5p, 5p +, etc. It is confusing, but I didn’t make 5+ different rods with the same name.
I did get mixed up on which one he was referring to, only because I lost track and am not familiar with the Lincoln pipe flux types. I was always aware they existed and would read spec and forget a later. I had been buying rods at TSC but Atwoods has some KT 6010s, who would know how they run? All 6010s or A6011s are close but not the same.
It takes some practice, it’s all about hand position. I feel you though, I tend to weld straight lines but sometimes they aren’t on the line they should be 😅. I have been surprised more that a few times how far off a weld is from what I thought it was 😅
You are incorrect Sir. 5P is a slower freezing rod than 5P+. Also.... Both are used on pipe. 5P+ is for roots. Hence the fast freeze. 5P is for fill and cap if 60KSI is allowed. Hobart is a nice rod for roots and fill as well. And their 6010 and 11 is not the same rod even though it "looks" the same.
I am not sure what settings (or gear you’re running if on an engine drive) but the red rod 5p is a harsher, faster freezing puddle. Given the same amperage for both rods the 5p+ has a more liquid puddle that smooths out inconsistencies better than the red rod. It’s fairly easy to make a pretty decent looking 5p+ bead, it’s a bit harder with 5p, it captures all the movements due to how stiff the rod runs. If you’re running different volt/amp curves on an engine drive I could see being able to manipulate the puddle to be more liquid. On any non generator welder I have ran 6010 on 5p+ freezes slower.
I learned to weld with 6010, it was all we had beside some old bare wire welding rod. We had a SAE 300 and hundreds of pounds of 6010 after a few months of this I could run a decent bead. You bring back memories Greg, thank you.
Thanks for sharing your story. That’s a hell of a way to learn to stick weld lol. I bet it took all that time to make a decent looking weld. When ran 6010 for the first time I had 1/8th rods and 1/8th steel, and I couldn’t make a weld without holes 😅.
Я из россии и мне нравятся ваши видео. Самые толковые видео по сварке труб - из штатов. Мне нравятся ваши чертовы винтажные сварочные генераторы с кучей меди в обмотках. Я - некоммерческий сварщик, только для домашней работы ее использую. По английски понимаю, но пишу по-русски специально, чтоб обратили внимание. переведете через Гугл, если что.
Привет всем американским сварщикам, по видео которых я учился работать.
Great video Greg. I just got a new to me, Dialarc 250 ac/dc. Much to my surprise, my Dialarc and me really get along well together using 6010 5p. The metal I am using is repurposed, scrap, cleaned as well as I can, and I am really enjoying the crisp, precise arc of 6010 5p. My beads don't look too bad either.
My old Dialarc, of course, doesn't have modern arc control features, but it is a joy to use.
Thank you for your videos, Greg.
You’re welcome for the videos 😀. Those dialarc 250s are a treat to weld with. Other than hardly being portable and dimming lights when above 120 amps they are awesome lol. They actually have good output on DC, unlike the smaller buzz boxes/tombstones that had limited DC output. Sure it may not have all the modern controls, but it really doesn’t matter. Glad to hear yours is treating you well. If I had the space (and the power to run one lol) I would have the same welder no doubt. 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Fortunately, for me, portability is not a requirement.
Power wise, at the moment I run my dialarc off a 30amp dryer plug circuit and breaker. I did not trip the 30amp breaker until I ran a long bead with a 7024 at 175amps. I expected the latter to occur though. My dryer wiring did not even get slightly warm. Mostly I weld at less than 100amps and have no issues at all. When I get caught up with my other chores, I'll run a dedicated welder circuit, but I'll never need to run my welder at max power, so I'll probably go with a 50Amp breaker and wiring. For anyone reading this, and to emphasize a point, my dryer wiring and plug is protected by a 30amp breaker. If an over load occurs the breaker will trip, protecting my wiring. Where people run into issues is when they install a fuse or circuit breaker that can handle more current, with out upgrading the circuitry after the breaker.
Thanks for your comment Greg.
@@petertyrrell6690 great tip on the wiring and you’re right, that breaker should protect the wiring and yours is setup right. I used to have a ideal arc 250 (basically Lincoln’s equivalent to the miller) and I had it on a 50 amp breaker. The recommended on 240 volt was a direct wire to 70+ amp breaker lol. I bet yours says the same thing. I did what you mentioned, ran it on a 50 and called it good. Not much would I ever be welding on that would need anywhere near 250 amps (or the 300 amps that welder could do on AC lol).
Your videos are excellent. Thank you.
You’re welcome, thanks for hanging out and watching some 😀
Nice video and it’s very informative. When I was learning to weld, I was started out with 6010. It was definitely a struggle!!! If my memory serves me correct, I thought that I heard somewhere that 5p and 5p+ are kinda signatory to Lincoln electrodes. Every once in a while on a job I’ll find some 6010 and hoard it. It works pretty good for burning out galvanized roots that someone didn’t pre grind. Whipping 7018 works too but 6010 does a better job, then 7018 for the caps. I’m enjoying the content
Thanks for the kind words. You might be right on the 5p and + being Lincoln specific. I recently heard esab makes a 10p 6010, which I have never ran that (I will have to find some). I always liked 6010 because many people can’t run it well so i can get boxes/cans of it for free or cheap. Once you learn how to run it its awesome, I can’t imagine not having it around.
Those red rods, as my mentor might say, are a real bastard to run. Give me the 5P+ any day! Thanks for taking time to teach us a thing or two.
Thanks for the comparisons. Maybe try the grey Hobart 6010 on AC or a cheap inverter welder to see if it will run at all. Since it looks like the Hobart 6011. Great video.
I did just that 😀. The video is set to go live tonight as far as welding the Hobart on the cheaper welder. I also tested all the 6010s I have on AC with interesting results, that will be live Tuesday at the latest. 😀
The Hobart 6011 did *NOT* want to run on the AHP-160 ($300 box; defunct now) *AT ALL.*
That welder didn’t like cellulosic rods period. It ran other rods good, though.
Thx Greg, another excellent presentation
Real good explaination and well done video showing the differences, thank you !
You’re welcome 😀
at 23:45 you mentioned "as the plate gets hotter, you run more amperage". you were running 6010P plus on that pass near the plate edge. I am a bit surprised that amperage would increase "as plate gets hotter". I can understand the puddle being more liquid and slower to solidify when the plate is hotter.....but is the amperage really higher? just trying to understand.
If you weld near a edge it welds as though the amperage is higher. Same thing if you do multi passes without letting a plate cool. Basically you have to adjust amperage based on this. On thick plate it’s less of a issue but on thinner plate not dropping amperage could be the difference between a weld and blowing holes through the metal lol. Too hot of a weld can cause poor grain structure as well (both from too hot of a weld or too hot of a preheat in the plate) which can result in failed destructive testing results.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg thanks for this explanation. good info.
Excellent video. Thank you. You might wanna get some new welding gloves though lol, they look a little thin....
Thin gloves and 6010 make for a spicy time lol.
Excellent video. Learned a lot.
Glad it helped you out. 6010 can be a challenge but it’s 100% worth it learning to weld with it. If you find 6010 to be too difficult don’t be afraid to use 6011 as a starting point. 6011 has a bit more liquid of a weld pool so it’s more forgiving. 6010 definitely has more penetration than 6011 though.
Greg, I have quie a bit of 7014 rods. Do you have a video on those rods? I've been taking a lot of notes from your videos. You're quite the teacher.
I don’t have a video on those yet, but I will do one this weekend, so it should be out by mon or Tuesday. I have a box of them somewhere. I recall they run more like a 6013 then a 7024, I am sure I will get them to run good somehow lol.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Thank you. Your videos make learning to weld fun and easy to understand for the novice and us old guys that need a good brushing up. 👍👍😊
As a fyi I have shot the 7014 video and it will be up in the next 2 days. I am not sure if it’s the rods I have but they ran a bit rough in the bead on plate and vertical up that I tested them with. On a flat lap weld they looked good. Definitely tricky to run uphill.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I'll definitely be waiting to see it. Thank you very much. I spent the morning today watching the 6011 video. 👍👍God bless.
E6010 can run on AC. You just need a charge big enough to overload that or any electrode.
I'd love to see a video of someone connecting two buzz boxes in parallel.
5P+ works with flats really well
If you know how to weld with 6010, you can weld with any rod! Great video.
That’s correct. A clean weld that’s consistent with 6010 means you have all the skills needed to be decent with stick (proper travel speed, arc gap, smooth consistent movement, etc). It’s a great measuring stick to determine where your stick weld skills are.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg Thanks Greg. This channel is a treasure!
Great demo! Which rod, Red 5P or 5P+ would be recommended when running vertical? Would the 5P+ puddle beads take too long to freeze and then produce a drippy-looking weld?
All 6010 runs uphill just fine. The average person would find the grey 5p+ rods to run a bit smoother uphill I think. It tends to “fingernail” less, basically the flux melts off more even which gives a more consistent arc. The red rods can have the flux melt off inconsistent which causes the arc to wander a bit more.
Edit: the weld pool is far less likely to drip like most other rods. Normally what an inexperienced person struggles with on uphill with 6010 is serious undercut on the toes of the weld. You must move slow enough to deposit metal, or the arc will just leave gouged out metal.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg , wow, great to know. Thank you!!! I’ll try this with ESAB 180i. I’m sure it will be a learning experience!
Talking about rods when would you use black carbon rods can you comment please some time
What rods do you want me to try? Are you talking about the carbon arc rods?
So Greg, logistically, since the 6010 is a fast freeze rod, what's the value of whipping and pausing, vs just slow dragging it like a 7018? Wouldn't that produce a 'smoother' appearance bead?
So this is the interesting thing, 6010 tends to run fairly poorly if you just drag it. The red rods tend to have issues with the flux burning off at an angle (called finger nailing) and it becomes very difficult to control the arc. By lengthening and shortening the arc (dipping it into the puddle and out)it helps keep the flux knocked off smooth, therefore the arc more stable. Being able to whip it out of the puddle also allows you to let the molten metal freeze and fill gaps. The grey 5p+ rods tend to not fingernail much and can be run easier with a simple straight bead without arc stability issues. Even so some manipulation tends to make a more consistent width weld 👍.
Hi, I’ve subscribed.
Just wondering, when you whip and pause, how doesn’t it cause inclusions when you go over frozen part again? Can you please explain?
Thanks for the subscription 😀. That is a great question, and i have a couple thoughts as to why. Hope they help:
1: so when you whip forward and back the powdered flux that turned to liquid in/on the weld is still liquid (not solid). When you run back over it the liquid simply gets pushed away from the area.
2: 6010 has a very aggressive arc and it strips most everything out of the weld pool area. It’s not common to have slag inclusions ever with 6010 for this reason (provided the amperage is close to right).
3: The flux composition is very light and flakey vs dense like 6013 or 7018. 6013 for me can be a bastard with slag inclusions because as soon as the slag cools off it’s solid, and the molten metal will solidify around the solid slag. 6010 simply doesn’t have a flux that turns to slag like that.
4: the fact you weld with 6010 on DCEP (which is common for most rods) also helps because electrons are jumping from the work piece to the tip of the rod, this effectively strips some of the surface contaminates off, which is sort of a cleaning action. Although in my own testing any effect of this seems to be minimal and difficult to actually see.
Lastly the penetration of 6010 is very high due to the voltage it runs at. In my own testing it’s common to see 30-50% increase in penetration over say 6013. That deep penetration is due to higher arc voltage, and high arc voltage produces a ton of heat for the amperage it runs at. Basically the heat to deposited metal ratio favors heat over metal. This is a great recipe for low risk of slag inclusion, again, due to the heat. A rod like 6013 favors metal deposition over heat input and combined with a massive amount of flux, it simply is more prone to slag inclusions. The extreme end of this would be 7024, which deposits a stupid amount of slag (think double the thickness of 6013 and double the width weld) and that rod you would never want to manipulate or your going to risk slag inclusion for sure.
Those are my thoughts as to why, hope they help 😀
A big thank you 🙏
Great video! I tried 6010 yesterday. It was harder than 6013, but with some practice, it should get better. The flux on it was the red one and one big problem was that it would catch on fire (not from sticking the rod, just breaking the arc at the end of a bead) and then it was impossible to restart. Is this a known problem with the red flux variety? Thanks
So the red rods tend to be a very agressive arc, and it’s very common for the rod to burn far up inside the flux. To restart the rod you want to pinch the flux off a bit and try it again. They tend to stick easier during starts, it just takes some getting used to. The grey 5p+ rods tend to be a bit smoother and less prone to unusual/unequal flux burning off.
@ Thanks! I’ll try that next time.
Hello. Good video. Thanks for the info. I have 1/8 6011 rod padding beads on 1/2 plate. I'm set to 110amps, think the amps are good? I noticed about half way through the rod it seems to start burning differently. And this is continuous, every rod does it. Hot or cold plate. Is this typical with 6011?
Thanks and welcome. So I tend to run 1/8th 6010 at 105 to 110, it definitely seems to like more amperage than 6010. For half inch plate padding beads 100% you’re good to go at that (unless your machine is way off and 110 is actually 130 lol). 6011 tends to do what you describe, as the rod heats up there is a difference. Part of it may be due to the arc length getting a bit longer on you without realizing it. If you snap out of the arc a second after you notice the change, and look at how far the tip of the rod is recessed inside of the flux. Compare that to doing the same thing shortly after starting a rod. If the rod is recessed more after you notice the arc change it’s due to a long arc. To fix it allowing the rod to dig into the plate a bit and then lifting up will melt the flux off quite a bit and effectively shorten the arc. If the rod tips seem the same then it could just be a issue of the rod/flux itself heating up. Changing to a different brand rod may help, but like I said I have noticed tendencies like that with 6010.
If you haven’t practiced it much or are unsure how to, the video below I made specifically on whipping and pausing with 6010. 6010 runs close enough to 6011 that you will surely be able to use some tips from that video to help you out. The big thing with 6011 is per inch of weld you should have less rod left than 7018 or many other rods. If you travel as fast forward as 7018 your weld will be roped up and thin. You want the exact same or wider width weld with 6011 as 7018. It just requires feeding more rod in per inch and progressing slower forward. Here is the video: ua-cam.com/video/ZxH_MiWdZz0/v-deo.htmlsi=LcacXno2wTDaHdCZ
@@makingmistakeswithgreg my machine is about 5 amps off. I'm at 115 which is why I stated 110. I could hook up my meter again and double check too. Okay. This is good info, I might be high arcing too much when I whip and pause as I am new to it. I just passed my 2f test with 7018. I thought it was weird that about halfway through the rod I had to slow down or manipulate a little differently.... I do have forney rod 3/32 6011 I can try instead of my cheap Vulcan rod 6011 1/8. I appreciate the response. I'll watch your video!
@@jordan1234564 yeah some rods definitely do run a bit different, however some of it is just the nature of the particular rod. I generally find how a 6010 runs on a weld is based on how good your start is. Sometimes it’s a fire breathing dragon and it’s hard to get under control, other times it’s fairly smooth. Once the arc gap gets too long it’s tough to bring back under control. 6011 is a bit more forgiving but still has similar tendencies. Kind of like arc blow with a rod, it’s possible to get it under control but you have to be fast with it.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg so I played with a different brand 6011, randor. It welded just about the same all the way through, it had a slight change about half way through. But not much. The vulcan 6011 is a big change about half way through. I did play with the amps. On Vulcan, it burns better at 90-100amps rather than 110. With a somewhat noticeable change.
The randor was pretty consistent with any amps, even 125 with such a slight change halfway through.
So I take it, with Vulcan, turn the amps down, and weld slower with a little more dig and slower fill because of the lower amps.
@@jordan1234564 Great update 😀. Based on what you’re saying I bet the Vulcan is a issue where the metal rod is heating up and putting enough heat into the flux that it’s changing how it runs. It might sound crazy but if you put a caliper on both rods I bet you might find out that the Vulcan is thinner in diameter. A couple weeks ago I did that with a tub of mostly 7018s I had laying around (basically random half sticks and rods that fell on the floor that I use for non critical work). 99% of them were 1/8th in rods and shockingly enough there was a ton of variation in size lol. It caught me by surprise and that definitely will play a role in how a rod runs. That’s why when I find a rod I like I just buy that brand, I know what I am getting. I like Esabs 7018 prime, every rod I have ran in every size they make runs exactly the same and predictably the same. There 6010 red rod is far more variable pack to pack-rod to rod.
It sounds like a new welding student should start learning with 7018 before trying 6010? Or should both be tried to learn how different techniques should be used early in the learning process?
You know that’s a great question, I will give my opinion. Welding is a lot of a “how much frustration and failure can you handle” situation. Many people like to see “success” fairly fast and often, and if progress isn’t seen fast enough they quit. It is entirely possible to learn to weld with 6010, it will just take longer to make decent beads. The pay off would be that if you can run 6010 well the rest of the rods are far easier. Now learning on 7018 is probably easier than 6010, and isn’t a bad way to go. Most stick welders that do paid work use 7018-6010 exclusively (or specialty rods like nickel), so the sooner someone can run 7018 the better off they are. In most cases students learn on 6013 and 7014 first because it’s easier to learn on.
Generally speaking many people can make decent beads with 6013/7014/7018. Their beads with 6010 tend to look poor because it doesn’t mask inconsistencies of travel speed or arc gap. It also requires slower travel speed than 7018. 6010 is a great way to see how consistent a person is, the more consistent in movement and travel speed the better the weld looks like.
We as students learn all the rods. You do all coupons on 6010 then go up to see how easier it is with 7018 and 24
Hey Greg with this 6010 will it better to shut off th hot start function in my machine ?….great content ur videos are incredibly knowledgeable thank u always🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
So hot start with 6010 is a slippery slope. If you run it with it in I would keep it on the lower side if it’s adjustable. Try it without it at first. The issue with 6010 is if you long arc the start and have hot start on it will undercut the start area so bad that you will never be able to fill it to get rid of the undercut. 6010 tends to have a real aggressive start anyways so the hot start tends to be less of a issue with it. 7018 absolutely have it on.
Thank u I appreciate it God Bless🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Yes, bought some of those Lincoln “reds” so as learn about these “semi-mythical” sticks…
The red rods are about as fast of a freezing and harsh arc as you can get. They do penetrate extremely well though. I use them a fair amount on poorly prepped materials and to weld shut holes.
Is it necessary to be whipping ?
Great question. The whipping can help with arc blow. Some 6010 rods (mainly the red ones) can “fingernail”, where the arc basically blows out the side of the rod and leaves an extended “fingernail” like piece of flux on the rod. This can happen with incorrect rod angle or just because the flux is so thin the arc blows right through it. By whipping/digging the rod into the plate a bit you basically melt off the developing fingernail and it keeps the arc more stable. You don’t have to whip and pause or any other manipulation on many things, but expect to struggle a bit with arc blow. Also, on open root downhill you generally don’t have to whip at all, especially with the grey 5p+ rods that don’t tend to fingernail. Keep in mind too that the manipulation is very beneficial when bridging a gap, by steeping out of the puddle it freezes allowing you to come back to it to deposit metal. Doing such a thing with 7018 doesn’t help much because the puddle is too liquid.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg was having so much trouble with the red rods and had no idea what I was doing wrong until I watched this video. Still have some arc blow everyone and then but I did notice that fingernail you’re talking about. I will try to pick up some of the 5p+ to practice with. Biggest rod I’m having trouble with right now is 6013!
I read a lot of comments where someone says they can't use a particular rod.. Leaves me wondering what brand and which version . I wish content creators and comments would say witch one, what polarity and amps.
I can't stand 6013 even though it is a all position (some call it quick freeze) rod, but there must be a 6013 out there for me...but all the 6013s have been a hot mess.
I have a book from Todd Bridgiham, that says 6010 can have 0-10% iron powder in the flux, 6011- 0%, 6013- 0-10%, 7014- 25-40%, 7018- 25-45%. Iron powder becomes part of the filler ( deposition rate), makes a smooth bead (aka slows freeze) and takes a little more current than just some iron-less rods. I guess if I bought a $800 code book I could verify that. There are a lot of other additives that will effect the final behaviour too.
Thus you will see all different comments about why someone loves or hates a particular rod.
The manufacturer is playing with the fried chicken recipe crust.
You bring up something that most people don’t know, and that is every brands AWS spec rods can have a different blend of “herbs and spices”. American welding society sets min/max to call a rod a “7018” and there is enough room for special blends. I have ran a ton of brand rods and universally they weld similar, but some do weld better. 6013 must be the widest range of acceptability because those run massively different. In some countries their 6013s function like the common USA 6011, with a more aggressive faster freezing arc. I found this out when I realized overseas they use 6013 on a root pass on pipe. I didn’t believe that would work at all but then I found out their 6013 doesn’t run like ours.
Like you I don’t like 6013. It runs out of position poorer than most rods. It is so prone to slag inclusions, and it has limited penetration. I use 6011, 6010, 7018, 7024, and special use rods all the time. 6013 I virtually never use. It’s good to train people to stick weld, and it will run on virtually anything lol.
Please stay consistent with the rod designations. Very confusing with 5P, Red Rod, Hobart, 6010/6011, grey rod, blah, blah blah. Very confusing but thanks for the information.
They are all different rods and unfortunately they run differently. If you buy red rod 6010 and you’re used to grey rod 6010 they run completely different. Some machines will also run grey rod but not red. The rods are referred to by colors and 5p, 5p +, etc. It is confusing, but I didn’t make 5+ different rods with the same name.
I did get mixed up on which one he was referring to, only because I lost track and am not familiar with the Lincoln pipe flux types. I was always aware they existed and would read spec and forget a later.
I had been buying rods at TSC but Atwoods has some KT 6010s, who would know how they run? All 6010s or A6011s are close but not the same.
🇱🇰👍🙏
I can't weld a straight line to save my life
It takes some practice, it’s all about hand position. I feel you though, I tend to weld straight lines but sometimes they aren’t on the line they should be 😅. I have been surprised more that a few times how far off a weld is from what I thought it was 😅
Have the same problem with straight welds. In my case, age,disabilities and chronic illness doesn’t help at all.
You are incorrect Sir. 5P is a slower freezing rod than 5P+. Also.... Both are used on pipe. 5P+ is for roots. Hence the fast freeze. 5P is for fill and cap if 60KSI is allowed. Hobart is a nice rod for roots and fill as well. And their 6010 and 11 is not the same rod even though it "looks" the same.
I am not sure what settings (or gear you’re running if on an engine drive) but the red rod 5p is a harsher, faster freezing puddle. Given the same amperage for both rods the 5p+ has a more liquid puddle that smooths out inconsistencies better than the red rod. It’s fairly easy to make a pretty decent looking 5p+ bead, it’s a bit harder with 5p, it captures all the movements due to how stiff the rod runs. If you’re running different volt/amp curves on an engine drive I could see being able to manipulate the puddle to be more liquid. On any non generator welder I have ran 6010 on 5p+ freezes slower.