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You need a scanner to relearn the position. Funny, some tech videos are very thorough others not so much! They tell you just enough to have you pulling your hair out sometimes. I suspect they know more than they let on with these videos. If someone wants to be helpful, that's great, if not, don't expect the same clout as those who are.
I am having this problem where my brake lights are ON when I'm not pushing the pedal. so I have done what is stated here and bought a new brake pedal position sensor, I installed it with GREAT PAIN as I am not a little skinny guy, LOL. I think one of my ribs is broken now. Ok .. so now with the new sensor / switch installed, same exact problem is happening. So I looked at everything, for hours I have poured over what is happening. and something new has occurred to me. before I bolted that switch in place I checked it, i manually moved the arm to see the brake lights come on and go off. I found that it has a few places in the switch that turn the lights ON. some of the points in the arms travel could never be reached while installed because the pedal does not allow movement that high or low. those places can only be seen with the switch not installed. so here is my theory - when the switch is installed the slot the pedal arm goes in is kind of loose, not exact, so that the arm can slide i that slot freely ( in the video at "4:52" you can see a smudge in the inside of the slot On the fork where the pedal bar sets and makes contact and slides, that is the TOTAL travel! very short eh?) so my problem it seems is the 1st switch action - this 1st action of turning on the lights is right when I push the brakes, it clicks the switch and sends the signal ON!. well that 1st action in the travel of the pedal is NOT really the 1st switch on. If the pedal when returning to the place it is supposed to set after the brake is applied is allowed to go a VERY small amount higher - the brake switch sends a signal to turn the lights on again and it will stay on all the time! My return pedal action has , for some reason, been returning too far UP. less than 1/4 inch but just enough to turn the lights on without the pedal being depressed. If I move the pedal with my hand about 1/4 inch down the lights go off and the brakes are not engaged at all. I am wondering if there was some kind of Bumper, stopper, something that fell off or is smashed a little too flat that has allowed this to happen. I can't seem to find anything yet, does anyone know what the pedal bar rests on when it is all the way up? I am working on a 2007 Pontiac Torrent which has the exact same switch and set up as this video has. symptoms are brake lights on all the time - once you push the pedal they go off for a split second and then on as normal and when you let off the brake it returns as it should and then 3 to 5 seconds later the brake lights come back on again and stay on. they go off if you push the pedal 1/4 inch or less and stay off if you hold it there.
@@hollydempsey2691 Yes I did, I had to buy a scanning tool that is capable of running reprogramming tests, I know that sounds expensive. it was going to be but I don't have that kind of cash.. LOl I did have time though so I kept looking. I found this model to be the cheapest that can do the job. FOXWELL NT510 Elite. it cost me 100.00 I got the one that has GM programmed into it already. You can get 4 or 5 other brands afterwards if you want but I just wanted the cheapest i could do for that Torrent. This thing worked so well, it was easy, I just plugged it into the OBD plug, It recognizes the car, the miles and everything, then I navigated to the car, ( It;s easier than playing electronic football in the 80's on a 9 volt hand held LOL) , so then it starts a test, tells you what to do , when to step on the pedal , poof it's done. seriously, I never used one before and it took maybe 3 minutes . Here is the catch , these people at Foxwell know what they are doing but they are extreme Chinese. so you have to sort of just consider how they write in english. this is the instructions : this ones for the Cadillac you can see but it will say your car instead. so when you get to that last part Calibration, you just push enter and it goes . then your done. super easy I hope this helps folks out. It took me Forever to narrow it down to this machine. most all are 130.00 Mine was 100 bucks because i talked the guy down. LOL the box was smashed a little. Procedure: Manual Selection->(B) 2011->Passenger car->Cadillac->CTS->(Y) 3.0L V6 LF1->6-speed automatic->Yes->Other->Control Modules->Body control module->Special functions->BPP sensor calibration
@@hollydempsey2691 check it out. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=nt510+elite+gm&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=nt510+elite&_osacat=0
We’re having this issue on gmc Savanah box trucks rear brake lights go out when u touch pedal but will pop back on 3-5 secs later after releasing pedal even with new brake switches
I know on my 2007 GMC Yukon the switch and the position sensor are two different things. the position sensor acts as a relay controls the torque lock up in the transmission and also allows the cruise control to disengage when you tap the brake. Symptoms can include engine stalling, brake lights staying on or off all of the time, check engine light, lack of torque converter lock up.
Would this be the fix to the brake lights staying on when car is off in a 2012 Malibu? c0899, c0561, c0242 There was a 2014 recall which involved adding a spacer and dielectric grease to a bcm connector. I checked the connector and there was already dielectric grease on the connector.
Mi carro marca ABS default y no son los sensores de las llantas, me dijieron que era el brake swich pero las luces trabajan bien con eso no tengo problema. Alguna recomendación
Google led me to the video for calibration and there was no calibration so do you have video for calibration and what scanner can be used other than $100000 snapon
Products that we use and recommend:
► Brake Light Switch (check for car model): amzn.to/3Y396PJ
► Panel Removal Set: amzn.to/3YiMADu
► Tool Set: amzn.to/3p5MM6t
► Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3XRB28Q
► Castrol Oil: amzn.to/3xBc8B9
► Oil Filter: amzn.to/3w0Ulme
► Torque Wrench: amzn.to/32qyRwg
► Liqui Moly Engine Flush: amzn.to/3IiDBID
► OBD Scanner that we use most often: amzn.to/3I4MQfe
► Check out our Amazon Store for the tools and parts that we use: www.amazon.com/shop/worldmechanics
Could you please post a link to the mentioned brake sensor calibration video?
You need a scanner to relearn the position. Funny, some tech videos are very thorough others not so much! They tell you just enough to have you pulling your hair out sometimes. I suspect they know more than they let on with these videos. If someone wants to be helpful, that's great, if not, don't expect the same clout as those who are.
Thanks! This worked for my 07 Chevy Equinox too. You saved me $500....
Brake light switch is different then the brake pedal position sensor. They are located on opposite sides of the brake pedal arm.
Does this switch also control whether or not you can move shifter out of park?
This is a very helpful video thanks for uploading
I am having this problem where my brake lights are ON when I'm not pushing the pedal. so I have done what is stated here and bought a new brake pedal position sensor, I installed it with GREAT PAIN as I am not a little skinny guy, LOL. I think one of my ribs is broken now. Ok .. so now with the new sensor / switch installed, same exact problem is happening. So I looked at everything, for hours I have poured over what is happening. and something new has occurred to me.
before I bolted that switch in place I checked it, i manually moved the arm to see the brake lights come on and go off. I found that it has a few places in the switch that turn the lights ON. some of the points in the arms travel could never be reached while installed because the pedal does not allow movement that high or low. those places can only be seen with the switch not installed.
so here is my theory - when the switch is installed the slot the pedal arm goes in is kind of loose, not exact, so that the arm can slide i that slot freely ( in the video at "4:52" you can see a smudge in the inside of the slot On the fork where the pedal bar sets and makes contact and slides, that is the TOTAL travel! very short eh?)
so my problem it seems is the 1st switch action - this 1st action of turning on the lights is right when I push the brakes, it clicks the switch and sends the signal ON!. well that 1st action in the travel of the pedal is NOT really the 1st switch on. If the pedal when returning to the place it is supposed to set after the brake is applied is allowed to go a VERY small amount higher - the brake switch sends a signal to turn the lights on again and it will stay on all the time!
My return pedal action has , for some reason, been returning too far UP. less than 1/4 inch but just enough to turn the lights on without the pedal being depressed. If I move the pedal with my hand about 1/4 inch down the lights go off and the brakes are not engaged at all. I am wondering if there was some kind of Bumper, stopper, something that fell off or is smashed a little too flat that has allowed this to happen. I can't seem to find anything yet, does anyone know what the pedal bar rests on when it is all the way up? I am working on a 2007 Pontiac Torrent which has the exact same switch and set up as this video has.
symptoms are brake lights on all the time - once you push the pedal they go off for a split second and then on as normal and when you let off the brake it returns as it should and then 3 to 5 seconds later the brake lights come back on again and stay on. they go off if you push the pedal 1/4 inch or less and stay off if you hold it there.
Did you ever figure it out?
@@hollydempsey2691 Yes I did, I had to buy a scanning tool that is capable of running reprogramming tests, I know that sounds expensive. it was going to be but I don't have that kind of cash.. LOl I did have time though so I kept looking. I found this model to be the cheapest that can do the job. FOXWELL NT510 Elite. it cost me 100.00 I got the one that has GM programmed into it already. You can get 4 or 5 other brands afterwards if you want but I just wanted the cheapest i could do for that Torrent.
This thing worked so well, it was easy, I just plugged it into the OBD plug, It recognizes the car, the miles and everything, then I navigated to the car, ( It;s easier than playing electronic football in the 80's on a 9 volt hand held LOL) ,
so then it starts a test, tells you what to do , when to step on the pedal , poof it's done. seriously, I never used one before and it took maybe 3 minutes .
Here is the catch , these people at Foxwell know what they are doing but they are extreme Chinese. so you have to sort of just consider how they write in english.
this is the instructions : this ones for the Cadillac you can see but it will say your car instead.
so when you get to that last part Calibration, you just push enter and it goes . then your done. super easy I hope this helps folks out. It took me Forever to narrow it down to this machine. most all are 130.00 Mine was 100 bucks because i talked the guy down. LOL the box was smashed a little.
Procedure:
Manual Selection->(B) 2011->Passenger car->Cadillac->CTS->(Y) 3.0L V6 LF1->6-speed automatic->Yes->Other->Control Modules->Body control module->Special functions->BPP sensor calibration
@@hollydempsey2691 check it out.
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=nt510+elite+gm&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=nt510+elite&_osacat=0
We’re having this issue on gmc Savanah box trucks rear brake lights go out when u touch pedal but will pop back on 3-5 secs later after releasing pedal even with new brake switches
I know on my 2007 GMC Yukon the switch and the position sensor are two different things. the position sensor acts as a relay controls the torque lock up in the transmission and also allows the cruise control to disengage when you tap the brake. Symptoms can include engine stalling, brake lights staying on or off all of the time, check engine light, lack of torque converter lock up.
Change brake light switch 2 of them and they both worked on lights but the cruise control doesn't work on neither?
Would this be the fix to the brake lights staying on when car is off in a 2012 Malibu? c0899, c0561, c0242
There was a 2014 recall which involved adding a spacer and dielectric grease to a bcm connector. I checked the connector and there was already dielectric grease on the connector.
Mi carro marca ABS default y no son los sensores de las llantas, me dijieron que era el brake swich pero las luces trabajan bien con eso no tengo problema.
Alguna recomendación
Que carro tienes
Do you know any scanners that support the CPP sensor relearn because most don't?
Does that remove the service stability trac and abs light
Yeah the same thing happened to my truck after I install the new one those lights went away..
Absolutely yes
LOL I'm here hoping this will fix my SST/STC lights as well.
@@angelaramirez7531 what car you have? Brand model year
Thank you!
Thank you for the video
I would like to know the Ohm reading and fault Finding on a Clutch switch....Car don't start
Thank you brother
Excelente
Thanks 🎉
how to relearn the new one clutch pedal sensor?
Chevy Cruze brake light switch calibration 😊
Its hard to find brake switch for 2016 trailblazer chevrolet un the philippines. I have pictures here, anybody can help us ti find...
Sorry can't able to attached pictures.
Just steal one
My car is weird I don't see a sensor by the break pedal or the cable
My f iend gets traction control flashing and the vehicle either wont crank or it shuts off.is this her problem has a 2014 traverse
How do you reset these?
I didn't have to reset mine.
calibrate?
duct tape your camera to your hat or forehead,, it will help with under dash recording like this
Just Wonderful, you guys.
AFTER REPLACING SWITCH,,YOU STILL HAVE TO CALIBRATE NEW SENSOR,,THIS REQUIRES A SCANNER,,,,,
Not if it's the brake light switch.. I called Chevy dealer and they told me no calibration needed on a brake light switch
@@christopherjohnson4398 your dealer is blowing smoke up your rear end.
@@christopherjohnson4398 the brake light switch is the brake pedal position sensor
Bro what are you saying
not the same for saturn aura
I am fairly sure that this scanner does not calibrate the sensor. You need an upgraded tool. $$$
I think mines need to be calibrated
Have you done the calibration yet? If so, what or how did you do it.
😊❤
Great video, thank you, very easy to understand and follow. If a 73 year old woman can do this, anyone can.
I personally can not understand much of what you are saying! Sorry
🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
This shit would be better on mute
Google led me to the video for calibration and there was no calibration so do you have video for calibration and what scanner can be used other than $100000 snapon