Another great video sir. Thank you so much for all your information, labor and effort to teach people all about spray foam, its facts and the BS, along with what to look for in the trade, and all the trades that are bumping up against it, literally and figuratively by affecting it and the job in applying it. I'm a GC in California, and it isn't big here yet, but I'm guessing it won't be long before it starts to move in. It totally makes sense, and I look forward to it being considered in the "R" value, and changing that ..... as you have spoken about it in other videos. Keep up the good work!!!!! Thanks👍
Thank you so much for doing this this is so helpful I’m new to spraying foam and I just want to know everything. At my company I known as a star child I picked it up super duper fast
You definitely need a video about retrofit to a brick veneer building that's already dry-walled. Ceiling only? Basement/crawl space only? What are the options? I have seen the dry-wall drilled and filled but I'm suspect of that . Your opinion on retrofit please. Excellent series so far!
Some very good information here. It sounds like the foam contractor and home owner need to be fairly flexible in scheduling installation to insure best environment for best results.
This is great. I hear from many blower door testing guys that they don't like spray foam because when they checked sprayed houses it delaminated and opened up air gaps at rim joists etc. Is this likely because the wood was too cold or wet during installation? How can we ensure this won't happen? (heat, dry, primer?). Watching for the next episode, can't wait.
SPF is rated as an air barrier material, it has adhesion standards. If it leaks it is because the foam has failed or no caulking of wood seam has been done. Both of those are failures and wrong.
It’s just easier shutting it down around December and spend the winter snowboarding, then start foaming in spring again. I do a few select projects each winter, but I’d much rather wait for nicer weather.
That only works for a one-man show. When you have staff and clients you need to be able to assist them when they have projects, otherwise they will get someone else. However, we have jobs that MUST wait until springtime to do... so I hear you.
Hi @sprayjones - I'm planning to have my attic spray-foamed in a few weeks. I live in a small cape-cap style home (built in 1960s) in the Northeastern US. The contractor I've selected seems confident that they can spray or inject foam in to stud bays in the dormered roof.. The stud bays I'm referring to are accessible from the attic, 9 feet long by 5.5inches deep and vary in width. Essentially, this is the cape-cod dormer problem.. There are roughly 20 of these stud bays, representing a pretty significant portion of the project. Most of the other roof deck is accessible from the attic. Do you believe that the contractor can spray / inject closed cell in this area or should we just bite the bullet and take down the sheetrock (where roof deck is inaccessible)? Also, we weren't planning a major renovation (not addressing walls in this project) - just trying to beat the heat this summer on the roofdeck. Thanks for your help and thoughtful content, love this page and I'm not even a contractor!!
Take down the drywall is always your best option. Consider this, how are you going to confirm that the foam went where you expected and does not have large voids or areas that you can't get to? Watch my video on injecting SPF into walls to learn more.
What's a general rule of thumb to set all of my heaters at? I usually set everything at 53 C. But it just seems a little "runny" to me. Especially doing an overhead, I get a lot of drips.
Okay so i have a question. I live in Louisiana. We have 2 seasons. Wet winters and hades hot. Like over 100⁰ high humidity hot. Is there such a thing as too hot? We will be spraying directly to metal roof and walls. In winter the roof metal cries so waiting till summer seems best.
if I want to use this on the exterior of my foundation before I backfill, can I still do the traditional tar and then spray foam 2 inches and then backfill or just skip the tar? Will the close cell alone be enough protection against water?
I've done a few large jobs, and HEAT HEAT HEAT. You didnt address the different kinds of heat in this, I was told absolutely no hydrocarbon powered heat, no tube heaters in other words. I had an issue once, where we heated up the space overnight, but the roof tin was still cold, and condensation occured. Just a seasonal deal? spray year round in canada? I'm in ND for reference.
@@SprayJones oh no problem that was all more of a question. I'm rookie tier. I am the contractor you worry about, rightfully so as well. There is so much to learn when first starting.
![React Tutorial For Beginners [ReactJS] | ReactJS Course | ReactJS For Beginners | Intellipaat](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9vZ8ELqerPo/mqdefault.jpg)
Another great video sir. Thank you so much for all your information, labor and effort to teach people all about spray foam, its facts and the BS, along with what to look for in the trade, and all the trades that are bumping up against it, literally and figuratively by affecting it and the job in applying it. I'm a GC in California, and it isn't big here yet, but I'm guessing it won't be long before it starts to move in. It totally makes sense, and I look forward to it being considered in the "R" value, and changing that ..... as you have spoken about it in other videos. Keep up the good work!!!!! Thanks👍
Thank you so much for doing this this is so helpful I’m new to spraying foam and I just want to know everything. At my company I known as a star child I picked it up super duper fast
Glad it was helpful!
You definitely need a video about retrofit to a brick veneer building that's already dry-walled. Ceiling only? Basement/crawl space only? What are the options? I have seen the dry-wall drilled and filled but I'm suspect of that . Your opinion on retrofit please. Excellent series so far!
Watch my video on injecting foam into walls. The wall needs to be open to one side for spray foam...
Goes a long way in explaining the repeatedly uniform application in the videos = ) The "paint prep" analogy works really well.
Correct. Thanks
Some very good information here.
It sounds like the foam contractor and home owner need to be fairly flexible in scheduling installation to insure best environment for best results.
Yes for sure.
This is great. I hear from many blower door testing guys that they don't like spray foam because when they checked sprayed houses it delaminated and opened up air gaps at rim joists etc. Is this likely because the wood was too cold or wet during installation? How can we ensure this won't happen? (heat, dry, primer?). Watching for the next episode, can't wait.
SPF is rated as an air barrier material, it has adhesion standards. If it leaks it is because the foam has failed or no caulking of wood seam has been done. Both of those are failures and wrong.
Great video ❤
Glad you liked it!!
It’s just easier shutting it down around December and spend the winter snowboarding, then start foaming in spring again. I do a few select projects each winter, but I’d much rather wait for nicer weather.
That only works for a one-man show. When you have staff and clients you need to be able to assist them when they have projects, otherwise they will get someone else.
However, we have jobs that MUST wait until springtime to do... so I hear you.
Hi @sprayjones - I'm planning to have my attic spray-foamed in a few weeks. I live in a small cape-cap style home (built in 1960s) in the Northeastern US. The contractor I've selected seems confident that they can spray or inject foam in to stud bays in the dormered roof.. The stud bays I'm referring to are accessible from the attic, 9 feet long by 5.5inches deep and vary in width. Essentially, this is the cape-cod dormer problem.. There are roughly 20 of these stud bays, representing a pretty significant portion of the project. Most of the other roof deck is accessible from the attic. Do you believe that the contractor can spray / inject closed cell in this area or should we just bite the bullet and take down the sheetrock (where roof deck is inaccessible)? Also, we weren't planning a major renovation (not addressing walls in this project) - just trying to beat the heat this summer on the roofdeck. Thanks for your help and thoughtful content, love this page and I'm not even a contractor!!
Take down the drywall is always your best option.
Consider this, how are you going to confirm that the foam went where you expected and does not have large voids or areas that you can't get to?
Watch my video on injecting SPF into walls to learn more.
What's a general rule of thumb to set all of my heaters at? I usually set everything at 53 C. But it just seems a little "runny" to me. Especially doing an overhead, I get a lot of drips.
Okay so i have a question. I live in Louisiana. We have 2 seasons. Wet winters and hades hot. Like over 100⁰ high humidity hot. Is there such a thing as too hot?
We will be spraying directly to metal roof and walls. In winter the roof metal cries so waiting till summer seems best.
Nope. They spray foam for Arizona.
if I want to use this on the exterior of my foundation before I backfill, can I still do the traditional tar and then spray foam 2 inches and then backfill or just skip the tar? Will the close cell alone be enough protection against water?
On pour in place concrete the SPF we use is approved for no additional dampproofing... pre or post.
I've done a few large jobs, and HEAT HEAT HEAT. You didnt address the different kinds of heat in this, I was told absolutely no hydrocarbon powered heat, no tube heaters in other words.
I had an issue once, where we heated up the space overnight, but the roof tin was still cold, and condensation occured. Just a seasonal deal? spray year round in canada? I'm in ND for reference.
I have to end the video at some point... Indirect fired is what is best.
@@SprayJones oh no problem that was all more of a question. I'm rookie tier. I am the contractor you worry about, rightfully so as well. There is so much to learn when first starting.
It's sprayed. Yall welcome.
Cut 1- 3/4 inch strips of cardboard.staple onto stud face .eliminate scraping.
Use packaging tape.
I am from bangladesh I like your videos
But I know the spry
U can give me job