We’ve been watching you (subscribed) for a few years and this has been my FAVORITE episode. You made it educational and lively on a subject that always gives me nightmares! I have a 1999 Bambi that we stripped the clear coat off a few years ago (got haze and cracky) and though it would corrode but hasn’t yet and now I know why. One less nightmare, thank you My son has a 2013 24’ and he has this corrosion illness all over it. Cant wait to share your video with him and start cleaning it
Thanks so much for watching and the super nice comment. We're glad we shed some science on what's going on - we learned quite a bit ourselves in researching this video. Safe travels in that sweet '99 Bambi!
The "aircraft green" you refer to is Zinc Chromate. It is a corrosion inhibitor. It accepts pain well so you only see the "green" when you look at internal components...
One additional paint step. Remove corrosion. Wiped clean with alcohol. Spray painted close matching aluminum color paint over corrosion area after masking tape a SOFT edge around the corrosion. Spray clear acrylic. You can hardly notice the corrosion area except if you look for it with the sun shining on it. I have a 2011 30 foot international and had corrosion around every running light. I replaced all 13 original running lights with LED running lights so this was the perfect opportunity to sand and buff the filiform corrosion away. The new LED lights had a gasket around them which helped hide about 1/8 inch of the corrosion. Repair is now three years old showing no signs of deterioration and was the best cosmetic repair I made on the coach. Make sure you soft edge the masking tape by rolling the tape around the area to be very lightly painted. I experimented on the top rear lights so if I screwed it up it would be in an area hardly noticed.
Thanks so much for watching and the super interesting suggestions. I think we'll try that on the reflector area that Cindy tried to work in the video. That's great that you have no new signs of corrosion after the LED replacement.
@@LuvSubbin Yes! I researched this a ton on air forums because our Safari has a decent amount of filly that we're slowly working on fixing. Howard L gave a detailed description on there of how to do the paint cover up. If you go to the thread "Corrosion problems with new Airstreams" there's a good description on post # 2300 (page 115 of the thread) with pics. It's not 100% perfect, but it's so much better than before. I think the key is the soft edges so your paint/clear coat overspray can feather in.
We just looked at a 2003 Classic today, for possible purchase, that had filiform corrosion around almost all of the exterior signal lights/tail lights. I was concerned that it was coming from leaks, so your video put my mind at rest. The science lesson was appreciated (I was an analytical chemist early in my career!). It also explains the corrosion on my car's aluminum rims. I'd like to be able to spot remove the trailer corrosion using 3M pads, clean with alcohol, and then re-clearcoat, but my initial research says that this can look very patchy. I've also read that removing the lights before the treatment, and re-installing the lights with a gasket between the lights and the Al skin will prevent reoccurrence.
Thanks for watching and we are glad that we were able to shed some light on the situation. We have tried to "fix" some of our filiform and it either looks the same or worse.
Hey guys thanks for the geeky science video on filiform. One of the worst places we camped was on the Outerbanks of North Carolina. It rained for half of the week - everything that could - corroded on on the Airstream. Bare metal on the hitch rusted, the cast aluminum housing on our backup camera turned white and the propane lines under the trailer turned green. I am sure this was the start of our filiform. Since then I have ceramic coated our Airstream twice to build up some protection from corrosion. One of the areas you didn’t talk about was the panel edges, this is an area that I believe ceramics coating can help with. One benefit of ceramic coatings is they are almost self cleaning, most dirt and contaminants shed from the surface of the Airstream with just water. BTW - you don’t need to spend $4k to ceramic coat your Airstream, with the help of UA-cam videos I was able to get professional results for less than $200 and have material left over to do our truck. My product of choice is Graphene Ceramic from Adam Polish. I have used this on our Airstream 3 years ago and have done both of our tow vehicles.
Thanks guys! Yes, I often wonder if that trip in the snow and salt which we showed the picture hastened things. It was a few days before I could wash all that off due to it being below freezing. And you are correct, there are more inexpensive ways to ceramic coat - I was just going with the Best in Class at one of the Airstream specialists. Safe travels.
I’m relieved to know the filiform😮 story ! I have a vintage and new Airstream and you’ve answered a lot of my questions. Although I watched your lift video and had to buy the Cairo to Cape Town book and now I’m broke 😊 I enjoy your content and the presentation, thank you, The Silversailor
Thanks for watching Silversailor! The story of the Cape Town to Cairo caravan is amazing. What those Airstreamers had to overcome was ridiculous. I have met Pee Wee Schwarmborn who was on the caravan as a youth and seen Wally's gold trailer at the Heritage Center...
Very informative! Our corrosion may be a different variety. Looking at cleaning up and sealing interior skins. What type of product, not oil based, can we used to seal the corrosion after sanding it away? Would a marine spar urethane be appropriate to seal the area and prevent spreading?
Since you two are so good at this I have a question about the Filiform corrosion. My 1972 Land Yacht and now my 1999 Bambi which we’ve owned since new “Never got Filiform even living in Florida. My son, sister and 4 other friends have Airstreams from 2013-2022 and “All” have Filiform. I spoke to Vinny who has been features on LOLOHO and he noticed the same but had no Idea what is happening. I assume something has changed for the worse. It looks terrible and there is no stopping it. One of our friends got the $4000 ceramic coating done by Vinny and the Filiform is coming out in several places. Do you have any Idea what is going on?
Thanks for watching! I can say this, our 2002 (only 3 years distant from your Bambi) does have some filliform. In fact, I think, of our friends, most have some degree of it. Your 1972 probably has the Plasti Coat (which has its own issues with peeling) and, if intact, would protect things much better than the spray-on paint like PPG coating now being applied. Can there be variation or changes in the manufacturing process that might make modern units more susceptible? Sure. I worked in manufacturing for 25 years and fought all kinds of variation from raw materials to people to processes. We know Vinnie quite well. I don't know his process well enough to render an opinion as to whether it willl100% eliminate filliform but time will tell. Hopefully it will.
On our 2011 I’ve tried the exact same thing - but without the acrylic spray coat. Here’s what I do now: using a very sharp knife with a curved edge I gently scrape the scab off to remove the damaged clear coat then wipe corrosion X on it. That’s it. It doesn’t look any better but if you reapply the corrosion X regularly (when I wash it) it seems to stop the process. The sooner you do this the smaller the damage is the better. Pro tip - get the liquid instead of aerosol Corrosion X then transfer it to squeeze bottle with a teeny tiny hole (hobby lobby with the glue) you will use a tiny fraction as much. I hope someone chimes in with a better way.
Thank you for the clarifications regarding this Airstream issue. It is really a cosmetic issue for the most part, just looks pretty ugly. But as indicated below, there many other parts of the trailer that can really rust. Take care. Dave.
Thanks for watching! Our frame has some minor surface rust (what I would expect for a 20 year old RV). In about 5 years we're going to do a major renovation and will strip and repaint the frame at that time. It will certainly hold up just fine until then.
If it was me, I would have taken off the turn signal since it was only two screws. I'm guessing there is more filiform under the turn signal. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! I don't really recall what I did but I walked over and looked. Yes, the turn signals have 4 screws and that is what I must have done. The aluminum housing still appears to have the original Airstream sealant. I'll blame them for that...
Washing and aggressively waxing your trailer a couple of times a season, especially around rivets, the beltline and light fixtures, may help prevent or delay such corrosion.
Thanks for watching! Hmmm... Maybe. The corrosion is due to imperfections in the clear coat. Washing and waxing is certainly a good thing but I think even the most fastidious cleaners may experience filiform...
I have a lot of filiform on my trailer now. It is a 2006. There isn't any damage but it just looks not as pretty! I got it clean and did do some spray painting but the paint is noticeable. I used Nyalic over the paint to provide a clear coat of sorts. There is so much now that I would have a full time job if I wanted to spend the time working on the filiform. So, I just say it is Luma's age spots.
Thanks for watching! Yes, our trailer looks brand new from a distance but up close there is some filiform. As we said, we've tried to repair it and it just looks worse. I like the idea that it is just age spots...
Thanks for watching! To have a spot by the sea in Nova Scotia I think I'll risk the Filiform. Hopefully your clearcoat is on good shape and the only side effect will be the gorgeous views.
Thanks for watching! The reaction actually occurs between the aluminum exposed to oxygen versus that which is not exposed. Changing the dissimilar metals might help a galvanic situation but it would not help filiform.
Thanks for watching! I've tried but it just ends up looking worse. Maybe someone out there has the magic touch but most people I talk to agree to just live with it.
If your this worried and you invested 60k plus then I suggest you polish your trailerband send it to the film shop it costs .25 percent more then the polish job a 20 ft full is 8k
@@LuvSubbin thanks for the reply! We may buy a 23 ft with the twin beds. Seems like its better to tow a twin axle than a singe. Any thoughts on a single axle vs a twin? Thnaks!
@@aaronchandler2380 Duel axle gives you some comfort in knowing if you have a flat the trailer will make it to the next exit to fix. You are not on the side of the highway.
We’ve been watching you (subscribed) for a few years and this has been my FAVORITE episode. You made it educational and lively on a subject that always gives me nightmares! I have a 1999 Bambi that we stripped the clear coat off a few years ago (got haze and cracky) and though it would corrode but hasn’t yet and now I know why. One less nightmare, thank you My son has a 2013 24’ and he has this corrosion illness all over it. Cant wait to share your video with him and start cleaning it
Thanks so much for watching and the super nice comment. We're glad we shed some science on what's going on - we learned quite a bit ourselves in researching this video. Safe travels in that sweet '99 Bambi!
The "aircraft green" you refer to is Zinc Chromate. It is a corrosion inhibitor. It accepts pain well so you only see the "green" when you look at internal components...
Thanks for watching and the information on Zinc Chromate.
One additional paint step. Remove corrosion. Wiped clean with alcohol. Spray painted close matching aluminum color paint over corrosion area after masking tape a SOFT edge around the corrosion. Spray clear acrylic. You can hardly notice the corrosion area except if you look for it with the sun shining on it. I have a 2011 30 foot international and had corrosion around every running light. I replaced all 13 original running lights with LED running lights so this was the perfect opportunity to sand and buff the filiform corrosion away. The new LED lights had a gasket around them which helped hide about 1/8 inch of the corrosion. Repair is now three years old showing no signs of deterioration and was the best cosmetic repair I made on the coach. Make sure you soft edge the masking tape by rolling the tape around the area to be very lightly painted. I experimented on the top rear lights so if I screwed it up it would be in an area hardly noticed.
Thanks so much for watching and the super interesting suggestions. I think we'll try that on the reflector area that Cindy tried to work in the video. That's great that you have no new signs of corrosion after the LED replacement.
@@LuvSubbin Yes! I researched this a ton on air forums because our Safari has a decent amount of filly that we're slowly working on fixing. Howard L gave a detailed description on there of how to do the paint cover up. If you go to the thread "Corrosion problems with new Airstreams" there's a good description on post # 2300 (page 115 of the thread) with pics. It's not 100% perfect, but it's so much better than before. I think the key is the soft edges so your paint/clear coat overspray can feather in.
We just looked at a 2003 Classic today, for possible purchase, that had filiform corrosion around almost all of the exterior signal lights/tail lights. I was concerned that it was coming from leaks, so your video put my mind at rest. The science lesson was appreciated (I was an analytical chemist early in my career!). It also explains the corrosion on my car's aluminum rims. I'd like to be able to spot remove the trailer corrosion using 3M pads, clean with alcohol, and then re-clearcoat, but my initial research says that this can look very patchy. I've also read that removing the lights before the treatment, and re-installing the lights with a gasket between the lights and the Al skin will prevent reoccurrence.
Thanks for watching and we are glad that we were able to shed some light on the situation. We have tried to "fix" some of our filiform and it either looks the same or worse.
Hey guys thanks for the geeky science video on filiform. One of the worst places we camped was on the Outerbanks of North Carolina. It rained for half of the week - everything that could - corroded on on the Airstream. Bare metal on the hitch rusted, the cast aluminum housing on our backup camera turned white and the propane lines under the trailer turned green. I am sure this was the start of our filiform. Since then I have ceramic coated our Airstream twice to build up some protection from corrosion. One of the areas you didn’t talk about was the panel edges, this is an area that I believe ceramics coating can help with. One benefit of ceramic coatings is they are almost self cleaning, most dirt and contaminants shed from the surface of the Airstream with just water.
BTW - you don’t need to spend $4k to ceramic coat your Airstream, with the help of UA-cam videos I was able to get professional results for less than $200 and have material left over to do our truck. My product of choice is Graphene Ceramic from Adam Polish. I have used this on our Airstream 3 years ago and have done both of our tow vehicles.
Thanks guys! Yes, I often wonder if that trip in the snow and salt which we showed the picture hastened things. It was a few days before I could wash all that off due to it being below freezing. And you are correct, there are more inexpensive ways to ceramic coat - I was just going with the Best in Class at one of the Airstream specialists. Safe travels.
I’m relieved to know the filiform😮 story ! I have a vintage and new Airstream and you’ve answered a lot of my questions. Although I watched your lift video and had to buy the Cairo to Cape Town book and now I’m broke 😊 I enjoy your content and the presentation, thank you, The Silversailor
Thanks for watching Silversailor! The story of the Cape Town to Cairo caravan is amazing. What those Airstreamers had to overcome was ridiculous. I have met Pee Wee Schwarmborn who was on the caravan as a youth and seen Wally's gold trailer at the Heritage Center...
Very informative! Our corrosion may be a different variety. Looking at cleaning up and sealing interior skins. What type of product, not oil based, can we used to seal the corrosion after sanding it away? Would a marine spar urethane be appropriate to seal the area and prevent spreading?
Since you two are so good at this I have a question about the Filiform corrosion. My 1972 Land Yacht and now my 1999 Bambi which we’ve owned since new “Never got Filiform even living in Florida. My son, sister and 4 other friends have Airstreams from 2013-2022 and “All” have Filiform. I spoke to Vinny who has been features on LOLOHO and he noticed the same but had no Idea what is happening. I assume something has changed for the worse. It looks terrible and there is no stopping it. One of our friends got the $4000 ceramic coating done by Vinny and the Filiform is coming out in several places. Do you have any Idea what is going on?
Thanks for watching! I can say this, our 2002 (only 3 years distant from your Bambi) does have some filliform. In fact, I think, of our friends, most have some degree of it. Your 1972 probably has the Plasti Coat (which has its own issues with peeling) and, if intact, would protect things much better than the spray-on paint like PPG coating now being applied. Can there be variation or changes in the manufacturing process that might make modern units more susceptible? Sure. I worked in manufacturing for 25 years and fought all kinds of variation from raw materials to people to processes. We know Vinnie quite well. I don't know his process well enough to render an opinion as to whether it willl100% eliminate filliform but time will tell. Hopefully it will.
On our 2011 I’ve tried the exact same thing - but without the acrylic spray coat.
Here’s what I do now: using a very sharp knife with a curved edge I gently scrape the scab off to remove the damaged clear coat then wipe corrosion X on it. That’s it. It doesn’t look any better but if you reapply the corrosion X regularly (when I wash it) it seems to stop the process. The sooner you do this the smaller the damage is the better.
Pro tip - get the liquid instead of aerosol Corrosion X then transfer it to squeeze bottle with a teeny tiny hole (hobby lobby with the glue) you will use a tiny fraction as much.
I hope someone chimes in with a better way.
Thanks for watching and the interesting tip with the Corrosion X. I think your way is about as good as it gets...
Thank you for the clarifications regarding this Airstream issue. It is really a cosmetic issue for the most part, just looks pretty ugly. But as indicated below, there many other parts of the trailer that can really rust. Take care. Dave.
Thanks for watching! Filiform stinks but, like you say, at least it is only cosmetic and will not lead to any major failure.
Have you checked your chassis? If you have surface rust do you recommend evapo rust then cleaning it off and applying POR15?
Thanks for watching! Our frame has some minor surface rust (what I would expect for a 20 year old RV). In about 5 years we're going to do a major renovation and will strip and repaint the frame at that time. It will certainly hold up just fine until then.
Hey guys…another great video. Very educational. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks guys! Our Filiform is not too bad but hopefully you will never get any.
Thanks for taking the time to explain and make this video
Thanks for watching! We learned quite a bit by doing all the research as well.
Great video. Loved the science class!
Thanks Mike! If I had enjoyed science as much at The Citadel as I do now I probably would be a Nobel Laureate instead of a UA-camr...
I heard the state bird of South Carolina is Filiform Corrosion. 😂 Awesome videos guys!
Absolutely an awesome video! I had no idea and also thought it was some form of rust. Who knew right?
Thanks Barry! We actually learned quite a bit while making this video. Differential Aeration Cells were not on the forefront of my brain...
Good to know. Thanks
Thanks for watching and we hope we shed some light on filiform.
If it was me, I would have taken off the turn signal since it was only two screws. I'm guessing there is more filiform under the turn signal. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! I don't really recall what I did but I walked over and looked. Yes, the turn signals have 4 screws and that is what I must have done. The aluminum housing still appears to have the original Airstream sealant. I'll blame them for that...
@@LuvSubbin Great video, thanks for the response and safe travels wherever life sends you.
great informative video, ty
Thanks for watching! We hope it sheds light on this corrosion common to Airstreams.
Washing and aggressively waxing your trailer a couple of times a season, especially around rivets, the beltline and light fixtures, may help prevent or delay such corrosion.
Thanks for watching! Hmmm... Maybe. The corrosion is due to imperfections in the clear coat. Washing and waxing is certainly a good thing but I think even the most fastidious cleaners may experience filiform...
Simple Green would be the best for that situation
Thanks for watching! Simple Green for filiform? Unless I'm missing something, that won't work.
I have a lot of filiform on my trailer now. It is a 2006. There isn't any damage but it just looks not as pretty! I got it clean and did do some spray painting but the paint is noticeable. I used Nyalic over the paint to provide a clear coat of sorts. There is so much now that I would have a full time job if I wanted to spend the time working on the filiform. So, I just say it is Luma's age spots.
Thanks for watching! Yes, our trailer looks brand new from a distance but up close there is some filiform. As we said, we've tried to repair it and it just looks worse. I like the idea that it is just age spots...
So i am toasted. I will be moving in Nova Scotia, by the sea. Very interesting videos.
Thanks for watching! To have a spot by the sea in Nova Scotia I think I'll risk the Filiform. Hopefully your clearcoat is on good shape and the only side effect will be the gorgeous views.
Maybe you should replace all steel screws with aluminum screws, then there will no longer be any voltage differences at points like the red light.
Thanks for watching! The reaction actually occurs between the aluminum exposed to oxygen versus that which is not exposed. Changing the dissimilar metals might help a galvanic situation but it would not help filiform.
Why not sand and buff it out a bit before clear coat?
Thanks for watching! I've tried but it just ends up looking worse. Maybe someone out there has the magic touch but most people I talk to agree to just live with it.
If your this worried and you invested 60k plus then I suggest you polish your trailerband send it to the film shop it costs .25 percent more then the polish job a 20 ft full is 8k
Thanks for watching! Our Airstream is 20 years old and people still comment that it looks brand new so we're pretty happy with it.
Very informative!
Thanks for watching! We hope we delved into the subject without being too boring.
Is your airstream a 23 footer?
Thanks for watching! No, our Airstream is 22'. Back in 2002 that length came with dual axles. We're glad to have them.
@@LuvSubbin thanks for the reply! We may buy a 23 ft with the twin beds. Seems like its better to tow a twin axle than a singe. Any thoughts on a single axle vs a twin? Thnaks!
@@aaronchandler2380 Duel axle gives you some comfort in knowing if you have a flat the trailer will make it to the next exit to fix. You are not on the side of the highway.
Another great video.
Thanks as always for watching! We learned so much as well by doing all the research.